Merge sheets in excel by condition. Booklet binding methods
author Lady Bet asked a question in Other languages and technologies
How to merge all pages of a book in excel into one? then you need to make a selection and get the best answer
Answer from Ўlya Pavlova[guru]
It makes sense to merge the sheets of a book if these sheets contain the original data entered according to the same structure on each sheet. This can be done by copying the values from the sheet to the shared sheet.
If the sheets contain formulas, and even with various links, then copying will ruin all the work. Links must be relative.
Remember that the value of Excel is precisely in the formulas that are automatically calculated.
And if you work only with data, albeit in tabular form, then you can easily get by with Word tables, where tables allow you to add visible rows similar in structure from other tables by copying or transferring through the buffer, but there are no calculated formulas there.
Selection in Excel can be done from several sheets, in a cycle moving from sheet to sheet in the order of the sheets, or in the list of sheet names. All you need to do is create a cycle.
Answer from 2 answers[guru]
Hey! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: how to combine all the pages of a book in excel into one? need to make a selection
Answer from Striped giraffe Alik[guru]
What for? What is a sample? Some things can be done "through sheets"!
Answer from Vitaly Lapin[guru]
Excel has PivotTables, that's a good thing
Answer from Yoergey Rakovets - 1C Franchising[active]
wuvoo
Answer from Ozer Honest[guru]
Well, of course, there is no way to "combine" the sheets. Is that to copy all the information from them to one. Weird question. How does the program know how to arrange the information in a hypothetical "merge"? And there was never a need for such a thing. You describe what you need - somehow it will be clearer. And 100 or more sheets can easily be described in some situations by one formula. Well, no - still Visual Basic remains.
Answer from Irina Korchagina[newbie]
No need to merge pages
Hello, habralyudi!
I read on Habré about the stitching of a book and realized that I am not the only one interested in the topic. The soul started: the proposed method of classical firmware gives a high-quality book, but not everyone can master the effort and time invested in this labor feat. Plus, you need a lot of skill - no one can make a more or less high-quality book the first time. What is the cost of cutting a block alone - do you really think that at least once in your life you can do it exactly for a block of 200 sheets with a clerical knife? And if you want to do not a single book a year, but at least 2-3 a week? We would have simpler methods, and preferably no less effective. I share!
Method 1
With a volume of up to 40 sheets (and this is already 80 pages!) We sew with a simple rotary stapler in the middle of the sheets, making an ordinary notebook (such as a student's). To do this, we buy a rotary stapler, designed for a staple of great depth. Its working part is able to rotate 90 degrees, and a bracket of great depth (not width, but depth) can easily pierce up to 40 sheets. In a few seconds we have a neatly stitched book.
Method 2 (practically without limiting the volume of the book)
We print the book on A4 paper or smaller. We take a clerical hole punch, and selecting from a stack of 20-25 sheets, we make holes in them. It is very important here that the holes are on all sheets at the same distance, both from the edge of the sheet and from top to bottom. To do this, you need to have a hole puncher with a built-in alignment ruler. Such a hole punch costs exactly as much as without a ruler, but will allow your future book to look pretty neat. We simply insert the sheets with holes obtained in this way into a pre-purchased folder-folder. The whole variety of such folders comes down to the following types: folders on sliders, on ropes, on staples. We choose a stapled folder by paying attention to the following:
:: The size of the bracket should be slightly larger than you need to insert all the sheets. Sheets should not fit back to back! After insertion, the pages should turn freely.
:: Staples should come apart as tight as possible.
:: When the staples are connected, there should not be the slightest gap between them, otherwise the sheet will not fall out, but will cling when turned over, which is very annoying.
:: It is desirable that the staples are separated by hand - by tearing, or with the help of tabs at the bottom and top of the folder. Do not buy a folder where the staples are bred with a bulky mechanism - it will not be convenient to use, the feeling of a “book” will disappear.
:: It is advisable to choose a soft cover for the folder. Its size should be larger than the sheets placed there. The best cover is made of plastic.
Just insert the sheets into such a folder - and the book is ready. And there is no need to think that this is a primitive: I have seen such books published by foreign publishers (although the staples there are one-piece). At first I thought they were just laughing at me. But no - foreign residents perceive such "books" as books. Well, for them, McDonald's is a restaurant.
Method 3
You buy a notebook for records of a suitable size and volume (they come in up to 200 sheets, these are 400 pages), on a plastic or metal spring, always with blank sheets (no “checked” or “striped”). Carefully remove the spring (without any tools whatsoever). Print a book on the received sheets. Insert back. Very carefully compress the spring with your fingers, evenly pressing on each “tooth”. Do not pinch and do not remember the teeth (otherwise the book will look untidy), the sheets will not fall out anyway. The book is of decent quality.
Method 4
We print the book. Using a clerical hole punch, as in method No. 2, we make holes. But now we make a row of 4 holes - 2 higher, 3 lower. Do not forget to prepare the bottom and top cover in the same way. In the hardware store we buy a device for planting rivets or lurex. Through the resulting holes with the help of rivets or lurex we connect the pages and covers. If the covers are made of cardboard or half-cardboard, use a ruler to compress the cover along the opening line until the first opening of the book. If the cover is made of plastic - you need to scratch half the depth of the plastic along the opening line with a nail - along this line it will open (it may not be possible to make a neat groove the first time). Of course, such a book will not be opened "to the very spine" - this must be taken into account when printing out the contents. It turns out to be a very comfortable and beautiful book. With some skill, you can make a cover from a single piece of material - then the "spine" will not be visible from the outside.
Method 5
We buy a machine for binding on a plastic spring (such a “spring” bears little resemblance to a spring). The machine costs from $ 30, and it is no more difficult to use it than a toaster. Up to 500 sheets can be stapled using the plastic springs. There are similar machines for stapling to a metal spring, but they and the springs for them are more expensive and will sew you no more than 130 sheets. The resulting books are very easy to use. The correct name for such machines is "Binder for binding on a plastic (metal) spring." When buying, pay attention to the following: the body and handles must be metal; knives should be switched off individually - the more the better; there should be an adjustment of the indent from the edge; choose a machine designed for the maximum number of pages to be stitched, and for the maximum number of simultaneously punched pages - do not save here; all knives must move synchronously and without the slightest hook; the rest, including the manufacturer, does not really matter to the individual user.
Method 6
Let's make real books. "Real" are of two types: stitched and glued. Stitched ones are the highest quality, but also the most difficult to manufacture, which means they are not the topic of this article. Glued - the most common, take a look at your bookshelf: if the pages of the book in the spine area, under the cover, are connected by a half-millimeter layer of hardened glue - this is it. These are the books, and they are of professional quality, and we will make them at home without any problems. To do this, you need to buy a thermal binding machine for $ 50 and hot glue. The machine melts the initially solid hot melt adhesive. After printing and cutting, the block of sheets is inserted inside the machine and crimped by it. The cover is manually glued onto the finished block of the book. That's all. Up to 700 sheets can be stapled using this method (depending on paper thickness).
Method 7
Binding with a metal channel (metalbind) promises high quality, instantaneous and cheap binding up to 300-600 A4 sheets 80gsm thick at home. The device, which costs about $200, compresses the block with a metal bracket along the entire block. According to reviews - very reliable. An interesting feature - the bracket can be unclenched and reused, up to 10-20 times.
Note:
I tried all these methods (except metalbind) myself. I have a lot of books sewn in this way. It's simple, fast, and really accessible to everyone. Good luck!
Tags: binding, books
If the data that you want to analyze is on multiple sheets or in multiple workbooks, you can combine it on a single sheet using the Consolidate command. For example, if you have a separate expense sheet for each regional office, you can use consolidation to create a corporate expense sheet based on this data. Such a sheet might contain totals and averages of sales, current inventory levels, and most popular products across the organization.
The type of consolidation should be chosen taking into account how the sheets to be merged look like. If the data on the sheets is located in a uniform way (the names of the rows and columns may differ), use the consolidation by location. If the same row and column names are used on the sheets for the corresponding categories (the data may be located differently), use category consolidation.
Consolidation by location
Consolidation by category
Avg., and the other - The average
Consolidation by location
To consolidate by location, the range of data on each of the source worksheets must be in list format with no blank rows or columns.
Consolidation by category
To consolidate by category, the data range on each of the source sheets must be in list format with no blank rows or columns. In addition, the categories must be named the same. For example, if one of the columns is called Avg., and the other - The average, the consolidation will not sum those columns.
On one of the pages of this site, a short article was published about how to save sheets of active excel workbook to separate files. It is time to consider the reverse question of how to collect information from different files in general and how to combine several files into one book in particular. This can be done easily and quickly, but more on that later.
Simultaneous work of users in one workbook
In some cases, several users have to collect or process information simultaneously. There are different methods that allow not to transfer the spreadsheet sequentially along the chain from one user to another, but to work in it simultaneously or in parallel. One such method is to share a document, where users can work on the data in that document at the same time.
Another way to speed up the process of collecting or processing data is to divide the workbook into separate sheets and then merge them after custom processing. We have already talked about how you can divide a workbook into separate sheets and save these sheets as separate files. Now let's take a closer look at how to combine them back.
Combining sheets of different workbooks into one
Combining different files into one or certain sheets into one book has a variety of solutions. This is a standard option with copying and pasting sheets into the desired book, and using macros, and installing additional programs that specialize in merging files, such as MergeExcel. Each of these methods has its pros and cons. For my part, I want to offer another way to solve the problem of combining sheets from different books into one. Without having to deal with the macro code or install additional programs, you can quickly extend Excel with new features using an add-on called an add-in.
The add-in for combining various files into one was created on the basis of the VBA macro, but it compares favorably with its ease of use. Add-in is easy to connect and is launched with one click of a button displayed directly in the main menu, after which a dialog box appears. Further, everything is intuitive, files are selected, sheets of these files are selected, additional merge options are selected and the "Start" button is pressed.
macro (add-in) to merge multiple excel files into one workbook
The add-on allows:
1. With one click of the mouse, call the macro dialog box directly from the Excel toolbar;
2. select files to merge, as well as edit the list of selected files;
3. merge all sheets of selected files into one workbook;
4. merge into the workbook only non-empty sheets of the selected files;
5. collect sheets with a given name in the final book (you can use a mask using special match symbols);
6. collect sheets of selected files with a certain number (index) or a range of numbers into one book;
7. collect sheets with a specific value in a given range of cells;
8. set additional parameters for merging, such as:
a) assigning the names of the combined files to the sheets;
b) removal from the book in which the data is combined, own sheets that were in this book originally;
c) replacement of formulas with values (calculation results).
If necessary, the names of the sheets of the generated workbook can be quickly changed using the add-in for automatic sheet renaming.
Combining ranges of values from different sheets of different workbooks on a separate sheet
It is also possible to automatically go through all the workbooks specified in the dialog box, select only the necessary sheets in them, copy the user-defined ranges of values and paste them on a separate worksheet of the active workbook. In this case, you can choose how to place data on the sheet with totals, ranges of values can be located one after the other both horizontally and vertically. Thus it is possible
I would like to talk about two enough simple ways to bind magazines and books, as well as separate sheets from various magazines with articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, such book-bound magazines will make an excellent library. In the years of stagnation, when good books were in short supply, I collected "fiction" published in the magazines "Technology of Youth" and "Ural Pathfinder", in which the stories and novels that interested me were published with sequels. The methods of binding that I want to offer here, I have not yet seen anywhere in the literature. Of course, I didn’t come up with them myself, but I spied on one specialist from the city of Priuralsk.
How to bind a book at home
Usually, when binding, individual sheets are stacked, in which, stepping back from the edge of the spine, holes are punched, drilled or pierced, and then the sheets are sewn using these holes. However, as a result of this technology, part of the text is difficult to read, especially on those sheets on which the text is located very close to the edge of the sheet from the side of the spine of the future book.
The book, formed from sheets using the technology proposed below, is to some extent spared from such a disadvantage. At the initial stage of binding work, in both cases, the same operations are carried out: the sheets are stacked, trimmed along the lower and leading edges, the upper edge can be trimmed later. After all, as you know, sheets even from the same magazine, but from different issues, usually do not match in format. Then the stack is compressed using a press, vice or clamp. The simplest clamping option is two even boards (two metal corners), bolted on both sides (Fig. 1). Clamp the stack (from the side of the spine) in a vise so that the narrowest sheet peeks out of the vise by about 5 mm (see Fig. 1). Then, the spine is cleaned with a large file, removing strongly protruding edges of the sheets, and then the transverse grooves are sawn through with a hacksaw or a jigsaw in the spine (the number of grooves is at your discretion) to a depth of 1.5 ... 2 mm. This is the main feature of the proposed binding technology. After all, if the sheets are punched or drilled at such a distance from the edge, then the threads threaded into the holes will inevitably break through the edges of the sheets. So you can place holes from the edge of the block at a distance of at least 1 ... 1.5 cm, which will certainly lead to a "capture" of the text.
Having made cuts, the block (package) is installed with the spine up. Next, the spine is smeared with PVA glue (or bustilate), diluted thinner, so that it penetrates into the gaps between the sheets, as well as into the cuts. Then, pieces of nylon or other strong thread are placed in the cuts so that the ends go beyond the spine by about 2 ... 3 cm (Fig. 2, a) or (as you like) the spine is pulled together with one long thread (Fig. 2, b). In conclusion, the entire spine is once again smeared with glue. When the glue dries, the ends of the threads are cut off and the block is made into a light cover, that is, they simply glue a thick paper cover to the spine and paste the endpapers. (The endpapers are the first and also the last double sheets of the block connecting it to the cover. - Editor's note.) Sheets will no longer pop out of such a book, as from cheap store-bought paperbacks. In a similar way, the aforementioned store books that have crumbled are also strengthened. But still, in both cases, it is better to make a hard cover instead of a soft cover.
When making a hard cover, a piece of fabric or gauze is glued onto the spine of the block using a polyvinyl acetate emulsion (Fig. 3), so that parts of a piece of fabric 2–3 cm wide extend beyond the side edges of the spine. braids with a roller on the edge (bright cloth patches folded in half are also suitable). However, you can capitalize and not do it. Next, cut out two cover covers from cardboard. The width of each cover must be equal to the width of the glued block. There are many different options for making caps, but I want to offer what I think is the simplest one. Having cut out the cardboard covers, I select a beautiful fabric, oilcloth, leader, etc. A blank of the book’s clothes is cut out of the binding material, not forgetting to provide 2 ... 3 cm allowances-fields from the top, bottom and front edges. The distance between the covers is equal to the spine width plus 2×8 mm (Fig. 4, a). Between the covers on a workpiece of material, you can glue a lag - a strip of thick paper or drawing paper (the width of the strip is equal to the width of the block). The lids are carefully coated with PVA and glued to the workpiece of clothes, smoothing well so that there are no bubbles. Then the edges of the workpiece are wrapped on the covers (Fig. 4, b), glued to them, and the finished cover is dried under pressure.
We are preparing two endpapers, each of which is a white sheet of paper folded in half. We glue one half of the sheet to the cover (Fig. 6), and the other to the outer sheet of the block, and the endpaper is not completely glued to the sheet, leaving a 1 cm wide strip adjacent to the endpaper fold without glue.
Everything, the binding is finished, and the book is placed under the press. Of course, I do not know professional terms, but it seems to me that I have stated everything clearly.
I also want to offer a notebook method of binding magazines. It is somewhat different from the traditional one, when holes are formed along the spine edges of the magazines, for example, with a hole punch, and the magazines are pulled together with a cord. It is clear that in this case part of the text is not always readable. My notebook method is devoid of this drawback, since the entire binding is made on the outside of the spine.
First, put all the magazines in a pile and mark the places of future punctures in the roots along the ruler (Fig. 7).
Then they take the last issue of the magazine and with a large needle, follow the marks, sew it through the middle, forming three or five stitches (Fig. 8, a). I note that with such firmware, the “native” metal clips of magazines can even be removed. The next magazine, laid on top, is stitched in the same way, but in the opposite direction. After each firmware, the thread is pulled, removing the backlash (slackness). Having finished the firmware of the second magazine, the thread (with a needle) is connected with the end of the thread protruding from the lower magazine (Fig. 8, b). It is clear that the third magazine is stitched similarly to the first, and at the end of the seam, its thread is connected with the thread of the seam of the second magazine, prying the first stitch of the seam of this magazine with a needle.
For strength, the threads of the seams of all magazines are knitted at the points of their entry and exit (see Fig. 7). In principle, such a binder can already be used. But it is better to clamp the stitched stack in a press (vise) and coat the spine with liquid PVA glue.
After drying, a solid block is already obtained. And of course, it is better to make a hardcover for the stack, as described above. It is desirable to trim the edges, but if the magazines are the same, then you can not do this. And then without training, the cut will turn out to be a curve.
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If you need to print big poster at home without resorting to the services of a plotter - then this article is for you. But how can this be done? You can break our document into a large number of small fragments and print it on A4 sheets with your home printer. As a result, we get a large, almost seamless poster. In this article, we'll take a closer look at two methods. print a poster - no additional software required, only by standard means, and also consider a special program that can print with a simple home printer big poster. As always, the article will contain detailed instructions on how to quickly achieve the desired result. Let's say we have a large document, a picture, a graph, a map of the area - in general, anything from which we need to make a large poster. We will need a printer, a pair of scissors, PVA glue and half an hour of time. If everything is ready, let's get started!
To print a large poster from A4 sheets, you can do without additional software. There are many options for setting up printing in the standard printer software.
Among other things, there (in most cases) there is such a function as “printing a poster”. It is she who will help us print any document on a variety of A4 sheets. Thus, after gluing the sheets, we will get a large poster or picture on the wall. If this is the result you are trying to achieve, then let's look at an example.
Example: How to print a poster from multiple A4 sheets
Open the picture or document from which you want to make a large poster and press "print" or the keyboard shortcut "Ctrl + P". You should have a similar menu (see Fig1)
in which you need to select the properties of your printer.
Set the page size and the desired orientation of the sheets (Portrait or Landscape). Then, scrolling down a bit (in my Page Layout section) you need to find “Print Poster”. Standard poster print sizes are 4 sheets. This means that your picture will be divided into four fragments, which will be printed by the printer. After putting these pieces together like a puzzle, you will get a large drawing. If the size of 4 A4 sheets does not suit you, click the "Set" button.
Here you can specify a different number of segments into which your image will be divided. And also (very conveniently) you need to check the box “Cut lines in the margins” and on each sheet there will be an edge (Cut) that needs to be cut evenly and a field (Paste) is marked on which you need to apply glue and apply the next fragment of our large poster. All settings are made - we send everything to print. The result is an almost seamless large poster. If you are satisfied - then we have achieved the desired result by standard means.
But as you can see, there are quite a few settings for printing a poster. That is why there are special programs for printing large posters on A4. They allow more flexible partitioning. We will talk about this in another part of the article.
Conference > Chatter > Questions and Answers > Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together
View Full Version : Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together
Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together so that it looks like it's one sheet?
Do not offer adhesive tape and ordinary types of glue
26-07-2006, 19:14
Wallpaper!!!
Sheets of paper are glued together and it seems that this is one sheet!: D
daughter of Monroe and Kennedy
26-07-2006, 21:17
how are they glued?
27-07-2006, 01:13
No no and one more time no.
27-07-2006, 01:16
Ya can… in photoshop 🙂
yes, it’s just that a person doesn’t know how to make a double-sided printing in order to print normal money 😀
Hare[True]
27-07-2006, 04:28
Boogago!!! let him draw by hand) and at night he buys seeds from grandmothers)!
tried it - didn't work...
the grandmothers rebelled and atpisdili with a friendly talpa: D
You need to press :D
28-07-2006, 00:14
try saliva! 😀
you can electrify ... however, this is not for long))))
pps better go to work....
young counterfeiter
28-07-2006, 01:22
pasted on a leveled wall 😉
read the code and think, what a cruel article to fuck (a fake of a state sign), is it worth it to sit for 20 years for 1000 rubles
03-08-2006, 23:37
spit - sure! 😀
03-08-2006, 23:55
and how to glue flat to flat or edge to edge.
07-08-2006, 04:13
Tex... if this topic was created again about counterfeiting money .. then I should (again) upset you... DON'T EVEN THINK!
ps But in general (the old grandfather's way) rub with garlic :)))) ... try it.
Whom to rub with garlic? Counterfeiter?...:rolleyes: :confused:
07-08-2006, 17:41
Uh-huh ... and guess what place:%))))
paper of course!
😀 😀 😀 idiots
it was necessary to glue 2 sheets of a4 paper to get an a3 sheet - because. from the Ovirov questionnaire it was necessary to make the Foreign Ministry one.
The question is no longer relevant.
Thank you all for the flattering assessment of my abilities.
question two
if you slap a print from a Canon photo printer on medium quality paper - how easy is it to distinguish it from the original (given that no one has seen the original except me?)
madam, use the correct Russian language so that there are no more offers to rub you with garlic or plant you.
well, if you don’t look especially carefully, then in any way
mockingbird
08-08-2006, 13:03
I PRINTED MONEY AND I WAS GOING TO LEAVE FOR THE CORDON ...
08-08-2006, 13:19
next question will probably be about nitroglycerin
Wow, it's a good business to print money! 😉 take a share
mockingbird
08-08-2006, 13:49
are you going by ferry?
08-08-2006, 14:02
- Tell me, why do you have dollars more expensive than the exchange rate?
- Handwork. Yes, even at night.
1. Why did the adhesive tape not please?
2. Why didn’t the glue please?
3. And how do you need to glue it together? Two sheets to make one large one or glue it so that it is on both sides? =) If it's big, then the plotter is in your mouth and go ahead! If on both sides, then what for is it necessary? Is it really possible to counterfeit money? =) And what do you need to glue?
08-08-2006, 14:04
Understood! Either use a plotter, or do this:
Print the sheets so that there is nothing on the parts to be glued (yes, even with adhesive tape!) And connect them according to the type of wallpaper so that everything fits together.
I can draw a picture to make it easier to understand 🙂
Alternatively, take carbon paper and a pencil 🙂
You superimpose these two sheets on the A3 format and circle this matter through copying. And then with pencils - the corresponding parts are soft, hard and semi-hard along the ruler.
MFA does not accept glued =)
Yes, I decided a long time ago that it’s easier to fake a seal on the Ovirov profile than to try to glue the sheets on the Foreign Ministry 😀 😀 😀
Although the store shelves are littered with notebooks and notepads for any purpose, finding a truly unique thing is not easy. It is faster and more affordable to make a notebook with your own hands. It doesn't take long, and the result is a one-of-a-kind accessory for your recordings in the format you need. This article presents a step-by-step master class for making notebooks with tips and video tutorials.
DIY notebook making tools
To make a notebook or diary, first of all prepare paper for writing. Simple notebook sheets (in a cage, ruler) or landscape paper will do. To cut a large number of sheets evenly for a small notebook, use a clerical knife. You will need the following tools and supplies:
- scissors;
- ruler;
- awl;
- thick needle and strong threads;
- stapler;
- glue, double-sided thin tape or adhesive tape;
- materials for the cover (base cardboard, colored cardboard, fabric);
- decorations (sets for scrapbooking).
How to make a workbook with your own hands?
You can make a notebook with a small number of sheets (up to 10-12) in 2 ways:
Stapling.
- Necessary number of sheets neatly fold in half.
- Open the pages in the middle, staple along the fold line.
Usually 2 staples are enough, but if the page length exceeds half an A4 sheet, put staples at a distance of 5-10 cm between them. The thicker and thicker the paper, the larger the staples should be.
Stitching.
- Carefully fold the sheets in half.
- Mark with a pencil several pairs of future stitching holes (the distance between the punctures is 1-3 cm).
- Pierce holes with an awl at the marked points (make sure that the hole does not exceed the diameter of the sewing needle - 1-2 mm).
- For thin paper, prepare a needle with a single thread, for thick paper - with a double thread. There is no need to make a knot at the end of the thread.
- Sew the pages through the holes made along the fold with a simple needle-forward stitch, starting the first stitch from the outside (leave the end of the thread hanging 5-10 cm).
The ends of the thread after stitching should be on the outside of the notebook.
- After everything is sewn, pull both ends of the thread and tie with a strong knot.
If you need a thick notebook with a lot of pages, the usual binding technique will do, which is done in two ways:
- Make blank books (each of 3-5 sheets folded in half; the thicker the paper, the fewer sheets).
All books are individually stitched with threads in the above way. The blanks are then sewn together or glued together.
- The method of simultaneous stitching of blank books and fastening them together with one continuous thread:
- Sew the first blank from the bottom up.
- Without cutting the thread and without tying a knot, go to the second blank, only you will be sewing it from top to bottom, grabbing the outer stitches of the first booklet with a needle along the seam.
- Having reached the bottom, proceed to the third blank, sewing it like the first (from the bottom up), while grabbing the stitches of the second booklet. When finished, move on to the next piece.
- When sewing, pull the thread harder so that the pages do not hang out, and the books fit snugly together.
- After sewing the last workpiece, fasten the ends of the thread together with a knot.
If you take not white sheets, but colored ones, you get an original notebook with multi-colored sections. You can also experiment with the texture and thickness of the paper. At the end of the work, check that the edges of the resulting book are even. It is most convenient to cut the curved edge with a clerical knife along the ruler.
How to make a cover for a notebook?
Stapled pages will look unfinished if not bound. For a thin notebook or ready-made paper block bound with a spiral, cut out two sheets of colored cardboard that fit. The cardboard is glued to the first and last pages of the book with glue or double-sided adhesive tape, then decorated.
For the cover of a thick notebook with a wide spine, you need:
- Make 3 base blanks: the front and back of the cover (cut out of thick cardboard to fit the notebook), a cardboard piece for the spine of the appropriate size.
- Glue all 3 blanks onto one large piece of colored cardboard (fabric or other material that will be the cover) with strong glue or double-sided tape. Bend the edges and corners of the cover material inward and glue it to the base cardboard.
- Glue the first and last pages of the made notebook to the inside of the cover. As a result, the cardboard base must be completely hidden (from the outside - by the cover material, from the inside - by the outer pages of the notebook).
- We put the finished notebook with the cover under the press for the night, then decorate. The design of the cover is only limited by your imagination. Use improvised materials: colored paper of different textures, lace, fabrics, threads, beads, rhinestones, etc.
Video tutorials on creating a notebook at home
After watching a selection of the presented videos, you will learn how to make any notebook with your own hands. Such an activity is not expensive in terms of money and is available even to children, because. does not require complicated steps. And the exclusive handmade cover will turn a purchased notebook into an original thing and will be a wonderful gift for any holiday.