How to set the level of sexual lag. Lags for the floor - install correctly

Logs are called wooden bars of a relatively small section (say, 50 x 50 mm), which are laid on top and across the supporting beams in order to level the differences in the level of the latter, and at the same time reduce the deflection of the finishing flooring boards (the lag step is usually half the step of the beams). Acting in tandem with slab flooring, the lag structure often performs additional tasks: it helps to insulate the floor and lay communications under it, and at the same time ensure high-quality installation of solid boards and parquet.

WOOD TO WOOD

Floors on logs are arranged mainly when it is planned to lay piece parquet, massive, engineered or parquet boards in the rooms. Usually, plywood is laid on the "skeleton" of the bars, preferably in two layers with a total thickness of 16-20 mm. (Only a massive board is allowed to be attached directly to the joists.)

Such a draft floor is not cheap (the cost of plywood is approximately 1.8 times higher than the cost of dry mixes when installing a sand-cement screed 30 mm thick), and it also "eats" at least 70 mm of the height of the room. But it allows you to quickly eliminate any irregularities in the base and immediately proceed with the installation of the final coating, and not wait a whole month, as with a concrete screed.

Another plus of the lag underlay is that it reacts to changes in temperature and humidity in much the same way as the finishing wooden flooring (when wet, it expands; when it dries, it shrinks). Thus, the structural elements are deformed in approximately the same way, and the "pie" of the floor does not delaminate.

As for country houses with floors made of wooden beams, here the logs are used to create any floors, including those coated with ceramic and porcelain tiles. They are poorly combined only with carpet and linoleum. The fact is that between plywood sheets it is necessary to leave compensating gaps 3-5 mm wide, which will definitely appear on a thin and flexible roll coating.

Cork strips applied to the joists slightly reduce impact noise (1). The step of fastening plywood sheets should not exceed 50 cm (2). Almost any type of floor covering can be laid over plywood(3)

IF A VOID IS LEAVED IN THE DESIGN, IT WILL HAVE A THOUGHT WHEN WALKING. LEVELS REDUCED NOISE LEVEL HELPING EXPELLENT BACKING

Plastic screw supports allow you to set the logs at the same level; The protruding part is cut down with a chisel (1). Metal studs are rarely used, although they are much stronger than plastic screws (2). Most often, wooden dies are placed under the logs for alignment (3)

NUANCES OF TECHNOLOGY

What material to choose? For logs, ordinary bars made of solid wood are quite suitable. As a rule, they are heavily loaded and, moreover, are rigidly connected to the ceiling and decking, which significantly reduces the likelihood of warping. And yet, preference should be given to well-dried knotless (jointed in length by a microthorn) larch products; pine and spruce are not as durable and are more prone to decay.

Floorboards with a thickness of 35 mm or more are attached directly to the logs with a minimum section of 50 x 70 mm. For thin slats from an array of valuable species (oak, ash, ooze, etc.), a plywood base is required.

How to align? Logs are laid in increments of 300-600 mm. First, the extreme bars are set horizontally (they should recede from the walls by 20-30 mm), and then, guided by the laces stretched between them, they mount the rest. The deviation from the common plane should not exceed 2 mm per 2 m of length.

LAG DRAFT FLOOR

pros
+ Does not require a technological break before laying the finish coat.
+ Allows you to eliminate significant irregularities in the overlap without increasing the consumption of materials.
+ It has a small mass, almost does not create additional load on the floor.
+ Provides the ability to simultaneously level the base and insulate the floor without increasing the thickness of the subbase.
+ Allows the laying of communications in the space under the floor.
+ More maintainable compared to other designs.

Minuses
- Reduces the height of the room. Extremely demanding on the quality of work.
- When arranging the base for a laminate, tile, parquet board, it costs more than a concrete screed.
- It makes it difficult to waterproof the ceiling (it is required to additionally isolate the lag attachment points).
- Afraid of leaks (in the absence of special protection) and less durable compared to concrete screeds.
- Transmits impact noise to the floor.

Typical mistakes when arranging the floor on the logs

1. The use of non-antiseptic bars made of soft coniferous species (pine, spruce) with knots and curvature.
2. Leveling the log with wood chips or pads made of soft materials (eg cardboard).
3. The connection of the bars is not on supports, and also without displacement of the joints of adjacent logs (it should be at least 50 cm).
4. The use of thick elastic pads under and above the joists instead of filling voids with noise-absorbing material.
5. Laying plywood sheets on logs without expansion gaps.

FLOOR SCREAK ON THE JOINTS MAY BE CAUSED BY A CRACK IN THE STOCK, INEXACT LEVELING, AS WELL AS DESTRUCTION OF THE PADS

Old building technologies did not provide for fastening the lag and ceiling. According to SNiP3.0D.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings", "in the floors on the ceilings, the surface of the log should be leveled with a layer of sand with tamping it under soundproof pads or logs along their entire width or length ... Knocking wooden wedges or linings under the logs to level them or resting the log on wooden linings is prohibited".

But the practice of modern repair is completely at odds with the requirements of regulatory documents: the leveling method prescribed in SNiP was optimal for mass standard construction, and today the delivery of dozens of bags of sand to an apartment seems like a waste of energy. Usually, craftsmen simply place support pads made of plywood or specially prepared plates of different thicknesses of hardwood under the lags (pieces of oak or beech parquet slabs are suitable), gluing them to the ceiling with bituminous mastic or "liquid nails".

To prevent the bars from moving, they are fixed through the supports to the ceiling with screws with dowels. Do not use narrow chips, pieces of drywall and other construction waste that come to hand for leveling. Such pads are extremely unreliable, and if at least one of them moves, flattens or breaks, then the floor will begin to sag, creak and knock when walking.

When it is required to significantly increase the level of the floor, so-called adjustable logs are used. Their screw supports up to 200 mm long allow you to quickly and accurately bring all the bars to the same level. It is very important that these miniature jacks have sufficient strength, that is, they are made of high-quality hard plastic, and even better, metal.

Roll and plate materials made of mineral wool help not only to insulate the floor, but also significantly reduce the level of reduced impact noise under the floor

How to arrange a tiled floor?

The design should include (from bottom to top): beams, between which insulation is usually placed, logs, a layer of waterproof plywood (sometimes cement-bonded or oriented strand board - DSP and OSB is used instead), coating and rolled waterproofing, reinforced stack 30 mm thick (or a special compensating mat, for example DITRA), tile adhesive and the tile itself.

When installing the floor on adjustable logs, each support is pre-fixed with a dowel-nail, drilling a hole under it in the ceiling (1). After that, by turning the screws, the bars are leveled (2) and the dowel-nails (3) are finally driven in. Once again check the position of the lag (4) and then start laying plywood (5, 6)

On the terrace, details are used from rotting-resistant wood species - larch, teak, ipe, merbau. If a drain pan is provided, the lag mounts are waterproofed

In addition to living rooms, logs are widely used on terraces, balconies, as well as in swimming pools and bathrooms as a sub-base for permeable and drain floors, in which finishing boards are laid with gaps. Water from the flooring can flow to the ground (if we are talking about an open area) or the waterproofed surface of the floor slab (or foundation), and then be discharged into the drainage network or sewerage.

Logs in this design are highly moistened and dry poorly, which means they begin to rot intensively. Therefore, recently, wood has been replaced by wood-polymer composite (WPC) or aluminum. The price of aluminum products - from 270 rubles. for 1 running m; WPC logs are half the price and almost as resistant to moisture, but not very bendable and emit harmful volatile compounds, so they should not be installed indoors. For fixing terrace boards, special clamps or other hidden fasteners are used.

IN HEAT AND SILENCE

To insulate floors (for example, on the first floors of houses), thermal insulation is laid between the lags - glass or basalt fiber mats, expanded polystyrene sheets, soft fiberboards. The insulation is covered with rolled strips of glassine or other thin waterproofing material. Styrofoam is not hygroscopic: if water gets into the thickness of the subfloor during a leak, it will not linger there, but will leave through the ceiling, and wooden structures will suffer less.

As for fibrous materials (except for special ones, in particular - roofing), water lingers in their pores for a long time, provoking the appearance of mold, fungus and a catastrophic deterioration in the microclimate in the apartment. When arranging an insulated subfloor, it is not recommended to waterproof the floor slab.

A significant drawback of the lag design is that at every step it can sound like a drum, so both you and the neighbors below will have to suffer. Gaskets made of damping material (rubber or cork) located under the bars or on top of them, in a structure rigidly attached to the floor, are ineffective, since the screws and dowels form a lot of "bridges" through which impact noise is transmitted to the floor. A more effective measure is to fill the space between the lags with fine expanded clay gravel.

To date, one of the most popular ways to create a floor is laying a wooden covering on logs. The article will discuss how the floor lag is installed and what is their significant advantage, which determines such a high popularity.

The technology of creating a floor on the logs

The frame made of logs for laying flooring received such a high popularity due to the low cost and ease of installation work. Also, the design that the floor lags form is very strong, reliable and durable.

This flooring technology is most suitable for owners who carry out repairs in a newly built house with their own hands. Moreover, the work performed according to the instructions below will allow you to create high-quality floors.

Photos of such coatings will not differ much from the best samples produced by construction companies, and the physical characteristics will, for sure, be no worse.

Typically, a floor construction with a log base looks like this:

• base for laying all layers: concrete screed or slab, wooden beams or brickwork in the form of columns;
• waterproofing floor that protects the inside of the coating from moisture;
• a set of plywood or plasterboard substrates on which the log frame will be fixed;
• logs directly, taking into account all the styling features indicated in this article;
• a membrane is laid over the lag to isolate it from the released steam and moisture condensation;
• further, the structure is sheathed with floor boards, this flooring acts as the final basis for laying the floor covering.

Secure base device

If the installation of the floor logs is carried out on a base of wooden beams, there is no need to perform additional processing of the base. The beams will simply be fixed at the ends of the beams while maintaining the height throughout the covered area. Underlays are not required.

As for working with a concrete base, there are two main options for mounting a log frame:

• the use of linings to install the bars at a single level;
• base leveling.

If everything is clear with the first, then in the second case it will be effective to use spot putty for minor surface defects, or to create a solid screed to eliminate any irregularities and deformations. In some cases, a filled and compacted layer of sand of the required thickness is enough. Naturally, it is necessary to foresee fasteners for the log floor, which you can’t do without.

The height of the columns can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the layer of mortar used during installation. It is possible to increase the service life of a brick by means of roofing layers laid on top and bottom of the column for the purpose of additional waterproofing (details: "").

Determination of optimal sizes

Before you purchase materials, you need to decide which logs are needed for the floor and choose their optimal dimensions. The main rule regarding the purchase of beams is that the wood must be dry and correspond to grade 2-3 according to the classification.

As for the proportions, the height of the cross-section of the beam should be 2 times the width. Moreover, the height of the lag should be enough to lay a layer of insulation in the voids between adjacent bars and leave at least 2 centimeters for high-quality ventilation.

As for the interval with which the floor lag is installed in a wooden house or any other building, the distance is selected based on the parameters of the board selected for the sheathing of the mounted frame. For example, for a board with a thickness of 4 centimeters, an interval of 70 centimeters is sufficient, and a smaller sample of 2.4 centimeters will require a log to be installed every 40 centimeters.

The standard and most popular step between lags is half a meter. This distance is enough so that the strength of the laid base is high, and a heater is placed in the gaps between the bars without cutting. The rigidity of the floors will be high.

Lag installation

The correct installation of the log for the floor with your own hands is as follows:

• logs must first be set clearly in level. To do this, you can use wooden chopsticks if the height of the beam is not enough;
• before correctly laying the logs in the center of the room, it is necessary to tie around the perimeter. To do this, edge logs are installed with a gap to the wall of 5-10 millimeters. You should not leave any wedges in this gap, since such an element can lead to various squeaks of the coating during operation;
• then all intermediate bars are mounted. They must be positioned perpendicular to the window openings so that natural light falls on the flooring longitudinally. The flooring is also made in the same way, since the rays of sunlight will make the seams visually invisible, which will make it possible to take high-quality photos and, upon visual inspection, the floor will be more aesthetic;
• before laying the logs for the floor, it is necessary to choose a method for attaching them, and then install them in such a way that the structure is fixed, but the fasteners are not rigid. If you overdo it and strongly pull the lags to the floor, the effect of excessive vibration may appear and any blows to the floor will lead to sound propagation through the ceiling to the lower levels of the building. Experts are recommended to adhere to the rule: fewer details - less risk of various noises and squeaks.

Moreover, self-tapping screws should be available on all sections of the board or sheet, which is laid on the log. In the case of plywood, there should be twice as many fasteners, and the logs should be located much closer so that the coating does not deform during operation.

Outcome

The article describes in detail how to properly lay the logs with your own hands. It is worth remembering that only strict adherence to instructions, accuracy and accuracy during work will achieve a good result. In case of difficulties, you can always turn to specialists who will install the entire floor in the shortest possible time, while saving the customer’s effort and money.

How to install logs At present, specialists in construction use many methods of laying flooring. Among the most popular: installation on a finishing screed, on a dry screed and laying on logs. It is the last method that is the oldest and most proven, which we will talk about in this article. Lag - the frame of the floor covering, on which the finishing floor is laid. As a lag, as a rule, a well-dried wooden beam with a length of at least 2 meters and a section of at least 110x60 mm acts. Recently, however, builders have been using logs made of polymeric materials, which have better performance characteristics. When installing a log in a wooden house, logs are often used. Logs from logs are laid using the same technology as structures from other materials. When choosing a material from wood, it is imperative to pay attention to the quality of the wood: First, as we said earlier, it must be dried, otherwise the wood will deform during operation, which, in turn, can damage the flooring. Secondly, the wood should not contain knots. In place of a knot, the lag will have the lowest strength and there is a high risk of its destruction under load, which will lead to failures in the coating. It is advisable to treat the wood with drying oil before installation in order to extend its service life. Advantages and disadvantages of the floor on logs The main advantage of this floor configuration is its relative cheapness and ease of installation. In private houses, when the floor height above the foundation can reach several tens of millimeters, making a concrete screed is not entirely effective, since a large amount of filler will be needed to fill such a distance, which is quite expensive. In addition, the use of a lag structure will allow you to mount a ventilated floor. The air layer under the floor will make it warmer due to low thermal conductivity, and will also prevent moisture from accumulating, which negatively affects the finish. With the help of a log, you can correct any surface irregularities by leveling them. Under such a floor, you can lay a layer of insulation and soundproofing material, as well as conduct communication lines. The construction of the lag is quite durable and, with proper installation, lasts a very long time. The disadvantages of the floor on the logs are associated with the characteristics of the wood. As a rule, they appear in violation of the installation technology or the rules for choosing bars. If the lag section is incorrectly selected, the distance between them is incorrectly calculated, the substrate is laid in violation of the technology, such a floor will not serve for a long time. In apartments with low ceilings, laying the floor on logs can reduce the volume of the room. Choosing a lag for installing flooring This operation is best left to professional builders who will install the floor. However, if you are going to do this work yourself, when choosing materials, you must take into account several main conditions: The size of the room. Depending on this parameter, the number of lags, their cross section and length are selected. As a rule, the bars are placed across the room so that the floorboard that will be mounted on them lies along. Thus, the seam of the board will not be visible in the light from the window. Calculating the lag size is simple. To do this, we use the dependence of the size of the span of the room and the dimensions of the beam. For a span of 2 meters, the minimum cross-section of the beam will be 110x60 mm, for 3 meters - 150x80 mm, 4m - 180x100 mm, 5m - 200x150 mm, 6m - 220x180 mm. If the room falls into the boundary value, then we choose the size of the lag more, with a margin. That is, with a span of 5.3 meters, it is better to take a beam of 220x180 mm. Floor load. For intensively passing rooms, such as a corridor or a kitchen, the number of lags should be larger, as well as their size. Such a floor is laid on hard woods that can withstand heavy loads. On the Internet, you can find many videos on installing a lag, which will guide you in the right choice of material. The distance between the floor lags, and, accordingly, their number is calculated depending on the thickness of the floorboard. The dependence is as follows: with a board thickness of 20 mm, the distance between the lags should not exceed 300 mm, with a thickness of 24 mm - 400 mm, 30 mm - 500 mm, 50 mm - 1000 mm. How to install logs: the main points The configuration of the frame depends on the material from which the coating will be laid. If flooring is planned from a solid floorboard, then the logs can be placed in only one direction. If it is necessary to install sheet panels of thick plywood, chipboard or OSB, then transverse logs must be placed at their junction so that all joints lie on them. Otherwise, the joint that “hangs in the air” will sag and, as a result of friction between the two plates, will make a not very pleasant sound. Before installation, it is necessary to think over the waterproofing system. To do this, it is better to use roofing material, rubemast or polyethylene. How to install floor joists on wooden beams In old houses with hardwood floors, the joists are attached directly to the wooden beams. Before starting the installation of the floor base, it is necessary to evaluate the reliability of the beams. If they are in poor condition, measures should be taken to strengthen them. The bars are attached to the beams with screws, the diameter of which should not be less than 6 mm. Before fixing, the lags are leveled. During work, you must be extremely careful not to split the board. To do this, before tightening the screw at the place of its installation, we drill a hole with a diameter half its size. Fasteners for the log are installed in increments of 300 mm. If the beams are located at a distance greater than the thickness of the main coating allows, then the logs are laid in two layers in a cross order. The first layer is attached to the beams, and the second is placed on it with a smaller distance between the lags. Do-it-yourself log installation on a concrete base Most often, a wooden floor is installed on a concrete floor. In old houses, especially those in which the floors consist of several small concrete slabs, the floor is laid on logs. The fact is that the more joints between the floor slabs, the less neatly they fit. And the slabs themselves, at those rates of construction, were not made very high quality, which, in turn, was corrected by laying a wooden floor. It is also worth noting that the wooden floor on the logs, due to its good qualities, is often found in new buildings. Installing wooden logs on concrete is not a very difficult operation and it is quite possible to do it yourself. An important point in the production of such works is the arrangement of waterproofing. It is needed so that the tree does not absorb moisture that comes from concrete. If funds allow, the insulation should be laid on the entire surface of the floor, if not, under the lag substrate. Polyethylene or roofing material can be used as waterproofing. Laying the bars is done using a level. The first two extreme logs are laid at a distance of at least 50 mm from the wall. Level them up. Height adjustment is made using wooden blocks and wedges. So that the wedges do not fall out from under the log, we sew them on the side of the beam with a nail. We install the substrates for the logs in increments of no more than 50 cm. When the extreme beams are exposed, we sew them with 2 - 3 draft boards. The rest of the lags are set on these boards. After the frame is mounted, we lay a layer of thermal insulation. To do this, it is better to use mineral wool in rolls. In some cases, when the surface on which the logs are planned to be laid is too uneven, a rough screed is poured before installing the floor frame. Such a step will make the floor a stronger and more even base. Installing a lag on the ground This installation method is most often found in private homes. First you need to prepare the soil: carefully compact it. To do this, you can use a large heavy log, using it as a roller. It is recommended to make a simple rammer by welding an iron handle to a metal plate 20 mm thick and approximately 300 x 400 mm in size. After tamping the surface, we fill in a small layer of 2-3 cm of expanded clay or other filler. Next, we proceed to pouring the foundation pillars under the logs. This operation is done in the following order: On the walls we make marks corresponding to the position of the lag. Then we retreat 20 cm from the edges of the marks and make new marks to install the lacing. We proceed in the same way on the other axis of the room. We drive in pegs at the intersections of the cords - they indicate the position of the corners of the pillars. Next, in the designated places, we remove part of the soil, tamp the pit and fill in the rubble, after which we tamp it again. We install formwork with a height of 100-150 mm. We lay a layer of waterproofing at the bottom of the foundation pit. We reinforce the foundation with a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm, welded or twisted wire. The size of the reinforcement in height should be 50% of the height of the foundation column. We pour concrete. To do this, we use a “lean” mixture, in which there is more sand or screenings than cement. Then let it dry for 2-3 days. After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork and lay pieces of roofing material on the posts. We lay two layers of bricks, and the second layer should be perpendicular to the direction of the log. A soundproof gasket is placed on top of the brick. We carry out the installation of the lag. We fasten them to the supporting posts with the help of corners. We fasten the corner to the foundation with a dowel, and to the log with a screw.

Floors can be constructed using a variety of methods and materials. Floors on logs are considered popular, which can be arranged on any basis, including for floors on the ground. The main structural element is wooden logs, they are stacked in a certain order. A heat insulator is mounted between the lags, communications can be laid. Then the rough sheathing is sewn on top. Usually plywood, chipboard, OSB, ordinary wooden boards are used, which often act as a floor covering.

Installing a log for the floor can be carried out by various methods, it all depends on the need to level the surface, on other installation conditions. When laying, it is necessary to follow all the steps exactly, the wood will first have to be treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant to provide protection from insects and fire.

What are the benefits of lag?

The floor on the logs has certain advantages over other structures. It turns out not only durable, but also warm. Such a floor allows you to level the surface, arrange high-quality flooring for soil foundations in private homes. Among the advantages it should be noted:

Lags exert the most minimal load on the foundation.

1. Thermal insulation characteristics, such a floor avoids heat loss.
2. Lumber for work is distinguished by an attractive price, they are much cheaper than a concrete screed, which requires some experience in arranging.
3. There is a minimum load on the foundation, this is significant for frame and dilapidated houses. Such floors are also suitable for wooden floors.
4. The floor can be installed at any level that is required.
5. The consumption of building materials is minimal, which has a positive effect on the budget.
6. The construction time is minimal, there is no need to wait for the solution to solidify, except for the floors on the ground, where the pouring is done under the supports.
7. An optimal microclimate is formed inside the room.
8. The floors on the logs can be done independently, no special experience is required.

During installation, you need to correctly determine in which direction the logs will stand. There are rules for installing a subfloor log. Finishing flooring is always carried out parallel to natural light, and logs should go in the opposite direction. This should be foreseen in advance, so that later you do not have to fix everything.

If laying the floor is planned for rooms with a high intensity of passage, then the logs must be laid in the direction of travel in order to strengthen the structure and prevent it from loosening. It is important to immediately foresee how the floor boards will go, how the sheathing slabs will go if plywood is used. All fasteners of the finished floor must fall on the logs themselves in order to make the flooring durable.

Fixing and lag installation methods

To fix the lags to the base, you can use various methods. Previously, nails of the required size were used for this, but this method is not the best and most durable, such fasteners quickly fail. Today, the best method is to use galvanized metal corners and dowels.

Instructions for fixing the lag:

1. All metal corners are fastened with self-tapping screws. One plane of the corners is fixed to a wooden beam.
2. Self-tapping screws are screwed to a depth of 3-5 cm.
3. The lower plane is attached to the bar of the lower trim.
4. For brick supports, it is necessary to perform a layer of waterproofing, after which additionally make fasteners from dowels.

Instead of corners, you can use a special fastening in the form of a U-shaped part. It provides a strong fixation, especially if the bars have to be built up. This method is applicable for large rooms where additional fasteners are required.

The joints themselves for the lag can be arranged in this way:

1. Close to one another.
2. With the help of a notch. This docking method is the most effective, but it is necessary to carry out the cutting very carefully so that the docking points are tight.

If it is necessary to strengthen the docking, nails are used, they are stitched through the place of the fastener.

Additionally, you can use pieces of lumber, which can have a length of about 1 m. If the bars are mounted apart, then a step of 50 cm or more must be observed between the connection points.

Ground floor installation

Installing floors along the logs is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. They differ in the simplest design, they can be made for an apartment, a private house, a country cottage. Unlike concrete pouring, the weight of such a structure is less, but the floor is in no way inferior in strength.

To install lags, you need to follow a fairly simple instruction:

1. First, the soil base is inspected, after which the soil is carefully compacted with a vibrator. If there is no such equipment, then the work can be carried out with a piece of logs of large diameter.
2. A layer of crushed stone is then poured onto the ground, it should be about 5 cm. Such a layer will serve as a base.
3. After that, it is necessary to build a formwork for each support separately. A preliminary layout of the supports is drawn up in accordance with the size of the room, the conditions for the construction of the entire structure. If the formwork is ready, then you can fill it.
4. Next, you need to build brick supports. At the same time, a layer of waterproofing must be provided between the supports themselves and the base. This will reliably protect the structure from moisture. Above the brick support, another layer of waterproofing should be made, a soundproof gasket should be mounted.
5. Next, put the logs for the floor. The boards are pre-cut into segments of the desired size, after which their surface is treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant. This will protect them from insect damage, mold, and make them more protected from fires.
6. The lags are fixed to the supports with special dowels, which ensure reliability and stability. After that, you can lay a special cranial bar, perform a primary plank flooring, you can use ordinary boards for it. After rolling, you can lay out another layer of waterproofing material.
7. Between the lags it is necessary to install a heat insulator. In this capacity, various materials can be used. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of heaters suitable specifically for floors on logs. In this case, you can take expanded clay, other bulk materials, foam boards, mineral wool boards.
8. During insulation, it is necessary to ensure that no air gaps and cavities remain, as this will adversely affect the state of thermal insulation, heat losses will be observed.
9. After that, it is necessary to level the logs for the floor. The upper horizontal level is determined. All excess is cut off, the horizontal level of the coating is checked by the building level.
10. The finished floor is mounted from sheets of plywood or chipboard; any floor finishing materials can be laid on them. During installation, you will have to ensure that a temperature gap of 2 mm remains between the plates, and 10 mm between the plates and the wall. For strength, plywood can be laid in 2 layers, the total thickness of the sheathing is from 12 mm to 20 mm, it all depends on the requirements for the floor. Between the casing and the insulation, it is necessary to leave a small ventilation gap.
11. After the floor sheathing is completed, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the floor again, and then perform surface grinding. In order not to damage the grinder, it is necessary to recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the tree during fastening. The last step is laying the flooring. The process depends entirely on what kind of material was chosen for work.

Should I use adjustable lags?

If the floor is not so flat, then its height can be easily adjusted with lags. For this, special fasteners are used that can withstand a significant load, up to about 5 tons per 1 m². Adjusting elements can be made of metal or special plastic. These are threaded elements that can be given the required height. Logs are attached to such elements, the required height is set. Preliminary marking of the floor and walls is carried out, which determines the level of finishing.

For a concrete floor, dowels are used, and for a wooden floor, self-tapping screws are used that can withstand the necessary loads. After that, all excess is cut off. The logs are attached at the required height, if required, a heat insulator is poured in to make the floor more comfortable and the microclimate more pleasant. Plywood or chipboard is laid on top, after which you can proceed with the installation of the flooring.

Floors along the logs are a solid and reliable design that allows you to level the surface. It is not difficult to make such a floor with your own hands, there are many options, among which you can choose the right one. For work, only boards for the manufacture of logs, a heat insulator and sheets of plywood or chipboard for finishing cladding are needed.

Wooden flooring on logs remains one of the most popular options in private houses and old apartments. Low price, high durability and ease of work distinguishes this method of flooring from other types. If you are building a house and decide to do the installation of the floor logs with your own hands, or you need to update the old ones, this article will tell you how to install them.

Lag floor technology

If you look at the structure of a wooden floor, you can see there are several basic structural elements:

• The basis for the installation is a concrete screed, floor slab, wooden beams, or brick posts.
• Then comes layers of waterproofing to protect against moisture from below the floor.
• The lag for the floor is fastened through the substrates to level the level.
• Between the logs, a heater is installed on plywood or drywall substrates.
• From above, the logs are closed with a vapor barrier membrane.
• The top layer is floor boarding.

Foundation preparation

If the mount is on wooden beams, no additional work needs to be done. The logs are simply attached to the ends of the beams by level, so there is no need for linings.

On a concrete base, the installation of floor logs is done in two ways. The first is to use linings under them for installation in the same plane. The second is to pre-prepare a flat base.

This can be done by spotting irregularities, pouring screed or using a layer of sand.

If you are doing installation in a private house on the ground floor, then often in such houses they install on posts, that is, the floor will go above the ground.

In this case, you will need to first pour a 20-30 cm foundation for each post on a sandy substrate. Then, on this foundation, a column of bricks or blocks is laid.

It is necessary to lay them on the same level, for this the height of the columns is regulated by a layer of mortar in the masonry or the height of the foundation. In order for the durability of the brick to be greater, it is necessary to protect it from above and below with a layer of roofing material waterproofing.

Before starting work, we remove the dirt and lay the waterproofing.

Calculation of pitch and lag dimensions

Before purchasing materials, you need to calculate in advance the costs and dimensions of the lag. The bar needs to be bought dry, 2-3 grades.

Its cross section should be rectangular in shape, the height is about 2 more than the width. Please note that the height should be enough for laying inside the insulation and maintaining a ventilation gap of 2 cm.

The longer the width of the room, the wider you need to buy logs. For example, for a 3 meter room, it would be optimal to take a beam of 150 * 80 mm, for a 5 meter room - 200 * 150.

The distance between the joists will depend on the floorboard used. For example, for a 24 mm board, you need to make a laying step every 40 cm, and for 40 mm you can do it every 70 cm. Most often, a step of 50 centimeters is used, because it is more convenient to lay the insulation inside exactly in size without cutting, and you get good floor rigidity .

Installation lag

• We set the logs according to the level and put wooden chopsticks under them if necessary.
• Before installing the main elements, the strapping is first mounted around the perimeter of the room. To do this, first, logs are installed with an indent of 0.5-1 cm from the wall for the temperature gap. There should not be any wedges between the wall and the beam, they will create a creak when walking.
• Then all intermediate bars are mounted. The location of the floor lag should be perpendicular to the window so that the top boards are fixed along the direction of the light. The final flooring is also laid along the light, so that gaps between the parts are not visible.

• If you want to cut each beam and join a row of several halves, then you need to shift this joint each row to increase strength.

Note! Chopics do not need to be rigidly fixed to the floor, they are simply laid on the base. The main rule during installation is to observe a reliable and stable fastening so that nothing dangles.

• Many people ask, is it necessary to be tough? You don't need to do this. A rigid mount will conduct vibration noise, reducing sound insulation. When walking, sounds will be transmitted through the floors to the neighbors.
• However, it is possible to fix the lags among themselves. This will firmly bind the entire structure, and they certainly will not move. From the scraps of the bars, make crossbars and fix them. Use fasteners for floor logs - ordinary metal corners 4 * 4.
• If you do not make such a strapping, then it's okay. Anyway, the design will then be connected after sheathing with boards.
• It is important to use only self-tapping screws during fastening. They should be long and thick enough. When using nails or bad self-tapping screws, after a short period of time, the boards will begin to creak when walking, as they become loose.

Note! The fewer details in the design, the lower the likelihood of a creak. But at the same time, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the boards and the rigidity of the structure so that it does not shake.

• After the installation of the floor lag is completed, substrates for insulation made of plywood or drywall are laid inside them. Then, between the lag, the insulation itself is tightly laid (min. cotton wool, polystyrene foam, sawdust). A vapor barrier is fixed on top of them with a stapler and the floor sheathing begins.