How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: advantages and technology of internal thermal insulation. How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands? Thermal insulation of a brick bath

Choosing brick as a building material for a bath is a great way to solve several problems at the same time: to give the structure maximum strength and durability, to achieve perfect wall geometry, and to retain heat perfectly. but heat-saving properties of bricks not so good as to guarantee the comfort of bath procedures in severe frosts. Therefore, even a brick bath without fail requires additional insulation.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? The inner surface of the walls It is most effective to insulate a brick bath with natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but do not emit any harmful substances at high temperatures. In particular, mineral wool webs, available in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for this purpose.

The procedure for installing insulation on the interior walls will be as follows:

• a supporting frame is erected on a brick wall of wooden slats;

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed. wooden clapboard.

In addition to walls, the internal thermal insulation of a brick bath should include Measures to reduce heat loss through floors. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

• a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;

The concrete subfloor itself is able to play the role of thermal insulation. Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of giving heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

• a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;

External wall insulation

External work on the thermal insulation of a brick bath are carried out using the same mineral wool insulation, which retains heat well, is non-combustible and is capable of performing the functions of a sound insulator. If rolled insulation is used, then it is easiest to fix it on the outer walls with wooden planks or slats.

When application of thermal insulation in the form of mats based on mineral wool, the technology for performing work will be somewhat different:

• a crate is constructed from a metal profile and corners, fastened with dowels to the outer surface of the wall;

Meanwhile, for the insulation of brick baths it is quite possible to use foam sheets. The order of work when insulating a bath with foam heat-insulating material will be like this:

• the surface of the brickwork is freed from all types of pollution;

Ceiling insulation

Up to a quarter of all heat can escape through the ceiling with poor-quality thermal insulation. produced by the oven. Therefore, to reduce losses, the insulation of the ceiling should be given no less attention than in the case of walls. The most suitable insulating material for these purposes is lightweight and non-combustible fiberglass.

Work on the insulation of the ceiling in the bath produced as follows:

• fiberglass canvases or mats are laid out on the ceiling boards;

How to insulate a steam room

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath as a whole differs little from the creation of thermal insulation in other rooms of the bath. The differences are only in the need for additional thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the steam room, as well as in the use of metal foil both on the ceiling and on the walls.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be next.

1. The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.

Similarly, the foil is fastened to the surfaces of the walls in the steam room.

As a sheathing material in the steam room, it is best to use pine lining. Pine perfectly resists both high temperatures and the effects of hot steam from the heater. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, distillation from pine will add a special aroma to the atmosphere of the steam room.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for masters without extensive experience in such work.

Insulation of a brick bath inside and out

Even with all the heat-saving qualities of a brick, a bath made of this building material requires additional insulation. Moreover, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls and ceiling, but also the floors throughout the bath area.

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: advantages and technology of internal thermal insulation

A brick bath outperforms a wooden one in that the walls do not require special waterproofing and fire protection. The brick is absolutely not afraid of fire, and it absorbs little moisture. But he has a “weak point” - high thermal conductivity, which prevents bath rooms from warming up quickly and retaining heat as much as possible. Insulation of a brick bath helps to increase the thermal insulation properties of the steam room and other rooms. Without it, the heating time of the building increases by about 3 times, and the cooling rate is high. Consider how to insulate a brick bath and all its structural elements using materials that are safe for health.

A private bath is used periodically, so it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature inside it. True, a cold brick will freeze through in winter, and if you start heating, then most of the heat will be spent on heating it. And what is the point of heating the stone? If the walls are insulated from the outside, then the entire brick will be inside the pie, covered only by the clapboard. And you have to spend money on heating it, whether you like it or not.

With internal insulation, the brick box will remain outside the cake, and a layer of insulation will insulate it. In this case, your expenses for heating the premises will decrease, because the insulation will not let hot air out and, with proper installation, will give most of it back into the premises.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Consider options for how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside a brick box. The material is a bar-ten, which in itself is a warm material and does not emit harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

• A crate is stuffed onto the brick.
• A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
• Install timber walls.
• A second crate is stuffed over them.
• Close the beam with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Between the bars of the crate, the fiberglass is not stretched, but an overlap is made, so that later it is easy to place a heater.
• Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
• To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
• The lining is stuffed last.

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness must be at least 10 cm. To insulate the bath, heat insulators are chosen that will not emit harmful substances at hot temperatures. For this, basalt or fiberglass heaters are optimally suited, which are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the timber with polystyrene foam materials, then it is better to choose penoplex. It has a higher resistance to high temperatures than foam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But still do not do the warming of the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrenes. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, it is worth taking only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can focus on creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls, an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

The thickness of the internal insulation pie will be about 22 cm.

When choosing a heater, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, so external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation, taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth covering it with foil foam. This foam material is covered on one side with a thin layer of foil, which will simultaneously reflect IR rays and become a barrier to internal vapors.

For a steam room, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close it with a special foil for baths on top. So you will avoid the release of harmful substances during strong heating of the room. Joints in foil insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Foundation insulation

A powerful conductor of cold in the bath is the foundation, because concrete materials are selected for it, which are not characterized by thermal insulation characteristics. Even before the erection of brick walls, the upper part of the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt or roofing paper in order to prevent moisture from the soil from entering the brick. But this is not enough. It is necessary to carry out external insulation of the entire surface of the walls of the base in order to increase the level of heat saving of the floors and to exclude movements and shrinkage of the foundation. On Russian lands, many soils are heaving, i.e. in winter, when freezing, they expand their volume. As a result, the pressure on the foundation increases, and this leads to distortions and cracks in the foundation. If you lay a layer of insulation between the soil and the walls, it will soften the pressure and make the structure stable.

For insulation, it is better to choose from two options for insulation: foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. In fact, both materials have approximately equal technical characteristics:

• not afraid of ground movements;
• have increased compressive strength;
• waterproof;
• high quality thermal insulators.

You will have to choose based on your construction skills and the state of finances. So, spraying with polyurethane foam will cost significantly more than foam plastic, but craftsmen will do it for you in a day. At the same time, the main advantage of such a heater will be a continuous, durable coating in which there are no joints. Those. moisture and frost will not be able to find loopholes to penetrate deep into the foundation slab.

Penoplex is produced in plates, and they are fixed to the walls of the foundation with special mastic or adhesive. Any owner who has an idea about construction will cope with this. But for the day to mount the insulation will not work. This is a slow process, because the plates must be tightly joined, all seams must be sealed, and the corners must be blown out with mounting foam.

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath have to withstand both high humidity and the temperature difference between the ground and the premises. Therefore, before the installation of concrete floor slabs, the entire subfloor should be covered with expanded clay or slag. Moreover, the layer of the insulating pillow is calculated based on the thickness of the walls. If the walls are 20 cm, then expanded clay should be 40 cm. The subfloor is not used in the baths, so fill the entire internal space of the foundation with insulation. This will provide additional dryness to concrete or logs.

How to insulate a concrete floor

• If the floors are concrete, then the insulation of the brick bath from the inside begins with the waterproofing of the floor slabs. They are coated with water-repellent mastics (for example, rubber), and a rolled waterproofing agent is laid on top - roofing material or a special film.
• Foam or foam plastic is laid on top of the waterproofing.
• From above it is reinforced with a metal mesh and poured with a layer of concrete.
• The last stage is pasting with floor tiles.

wood flooring technology

It should be borne in mind that wooden floors are not a good option for baths, because wood is afraid of high humidity. But if you have conceived just such a floor, then first of all take care of the quality of ventilation in the underground. Without it, the logs and beams will instantly rot.

• The expanded clay pillow, which was mentioned earlier, must also be created in this case.
• Beams and logs treated with antiseptics are laid along the top.
• They are covered with a vapor barrier film.
• Draft floors are laid from edged boards.
• Lay foam.
• Close the insulation with a waterproofing film.
• Lay wooden finishing floors.

Insulated ceiling: not afraid of heat and steam

If we consider how to insulate a brick bath in a complex way, then we must definitely pay attention to the ceilings. Most of the hot air escapes through them, so a blockade is simply necessary here. But the climate of the bath, especially in the steam room, is characterized by very high temperatures in the upper part of the structure, because both the heat and the vapors, according to the laws of physics, rush to the ceiling. So its design must be resistant to moisture and hot air. We immediately exclude polystyrene foam materials, because in such heat they will harm human health.

If you study the insulation of a brick bath from the inside on the video, then most experts recommend insulating the ceiling with mineral wool, but with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Also a good option is to lay fiberglass on the ceiling, two clay-sand layers (one with sawdust, the second with vermiculite) and on top of all this - foam. But again, for a steam room it is better to take not polystyrene foam, but foil-coated fiberglass.

With proper insulation of a brick bath, you will significantly speed up its heating and reduce the cost of maintaining the desired temperature while soaring.

How to insulate a brick bath: choose materials and method of thermal insulation

Thinking over the insulation of a brick bath, it is better to dwell on the internal insulation of the walls, because the brick has a high thermal conductivity, and if you hide it

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: useful tips

For the construction of a bath or sauna, brick is most often used. Therefore, even at the construction stage, an important component of it is the insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside, since the brick walls themselves are not able to keep heat efficiently and for a long time.

The walls of the bath are insulated using a variety of materials, which will be discussed below, and from the article you will learn in as much detail as possible how to properly insulate the bath from the inside so that the heat lasts longer.

Insulation of the bath from the inside: a list of materials

When you install the walls in a brick bath, as well as equip it with doors, you will need to move on to interior decoration. Wall insulation should be done in such a way that the optimum temperature for the steam room and other bathing rooms is maintained for as long as possible. Also, in addition to insulation, it is also supported with decorative wall finishes.

Strengthening brick is most often carried out with the help of multilayer thermal insulation, one of the layers of which consists of plates, and the second - of rolled heaters equipped with a foil-based coating. Such bath heaters are able to reflect infrared radiation and protect the insulation from moisture. Now you will learn how to warm the bath.

To insulate the walls of the bath such materials can be used, how:

1. reed mats;
2. peat or cellulose porous slabs;
3. polyurethane or polystyrene boards;
4. rolls or slabs of mineral wool;
5. glass wool.

Please note that insulation based on polystyrene and glass wool do not have sufficient heat resistance, so it is undesirable to use them to insulate walls and ceilings for a steam room. And to reduce heat loss through the floor, expanded clay can be used as an additional material.

Consider material such as bath heaters based on foil, including rolls based on mineral wool with a thin layer of aluminum foil on one side, as well as sheets based on polyethylene foam.

Since foil film is not cheap, you can save money by using kraft paper for interior decoration where humidity is not so high. In particular, in the rest room and other rooms where insulation can be made using less expensive materials.

How to insulate the floor in a brick bath

If you want to insulate your brick bath according to the above tips, then remember that they are only suitable for a bath that has just been built. To insulate a brick bath as part of its overhaul should be a little different, although in general the algorithm of actions will be about the same.

Insulate a brick bath start with flooring. First of all, the floor should be insulated from the cold, so as not to feel discomfort while being barefoot in the sauna, even if it is as warm as possible.

To provide the floor with good thermal insulation, it is necessary to make an air gap between the foundation and the floor. To create it, install support bars on the base of the bath room and fill the gaps between them with expanded clay with a layer approximately twice as thick as the walls in the bath. On top of the supports, lay logs from wooden beams, previously dried and treated with an antiseptic.

Spread between them thermal insulation boards Treat the resulting gap between the lags and the insulation with polyurethane foam. Then lay glassine on top of everything on the floor, and lay the flooring from boards or plywood on top. And the main floor is mounted on top, but we will not dwell on it.

Bath wall insulation: process features

When you have completed the process of floor insulation, we begin the insulation of the walls from the inside. Please note that it is not necessary to loosen or process the brick tub from inside the bath room, since this wall surface will later disappear behind the wood sheathing for the steam room.

The only thing to be done is soak a brick wall in order to protect against bacteria, but this procedure is relevant only for rooms such as a steam room and a shower room.

The walls of the bath should be insulated in exactly the same way as other rooms, and not only baths. However, there a number of process features characteristic exclusively for this type of work:

1. to reduce the number of possible heat losses, close the gaps between the wall and windows with polyurethane foam;
2. the frame for mounting the sheathing must be made of wooden beams, then attach it directly to the brick tub;
3. it is highly undesirable to use metal suspensions and profiles for work, since they tend to conduct heat;
4. insulation in the form of mineral wool or polystyrene plates is placed in the cells of the crate:
5. the insulation is attached to the tub with dowel umbrellas or with a special adhesive;
6. if you are going to stick a heat insulator, then it is better to treat the brick wall of the bath with a penetrating primer before that.

So, when the main insulation has already been applied to the walls, it is necessary apply a layer of insulation as which you can use kraft paper, glassine or foil film, which, by the way, will be the most optimal material for the steam room and shower room. For example, the same kraft paper, when used in places of high humidity, can get wet over time and become unusable.

If need be, stuff the counter grille on the bars of the crate. This will create a gap between the outer skin and the vapor barrier. Then the lining should be attached to the counter-lattice using thin planks of wood.

When your bath or sauna has a large area and occupies several floors, then it is not necessary to insulate the walls from the inside everywhere in order to prevent strong heat loss during its operation. If a loggia is attached to the bath, it is also subject to insulation. You should also install good entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing circuits.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in the bath

Insulation of a brick bath includes work on the ceiling. The ceiling in a brick bath is also a source of heat loss, so you also need to take care of its insulation. First of all, this is important if the sauna is located in a one-story room. The traditional method of ceiling insulation in a brick bath involves the following algorithm of actions:

1. lay the fiberglass on top of the ceiling, then overlap the panels, connecting them to each other with adhesive tape or tape;
2. lay out a solution based on sand, clay and chopped straw about 30 centimeters thick on fiberglass;
3. on top of the layer of clay mortar, lay out a layer of foam, then fill everything on top with 10 cm of cement mortar;
4. if you want to improve the thermal insulation characteristics of your bath, you can use cement mortar add styrofoam chips in a ratio of one to three or even four;
5. attach the batten bars to the draft ceiling from the inside, placing basalt wool slabs between them;
6. cover the heat-insulating material with a foil film on top, and also sheathe the clapboard on top, keeping a gap of about 10 mm.

So, you have received basic knowledge on how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, spending a minimum of money and time on it and getting the maximum result. If everything is done correctly, then your bath during operation will perfectly retain heat, and you can get incomparable pleasure from staying in it.

How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside: insulation of walls, ceiling and floor, choice of materials

Insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside: how to insulate the bath, how to properly insulate the walls, ceiling and floor in the bath, the algorithm of work and the choice of materials for insulation.

We make insulation of a brick bath. Why is it more important from the inside, how to insulate brick walls

There are so many baths in the Russian space: log and timber, frame, cinder block, foam concrete ... Among them are built of brick.

But, to be honest, brick is far from the best material for bath construction. However, the circumstances are different: some of their own free will choose it, putting solidity, reliability and fireproofness at the forefront, others already have a brick extension in the yard, but there is no bath yet, so they find use for what they have.

Anyway, such baths exist, which means you need to know how to achieve maximum comfort from them.

Does it need to be insulated?

If, regarding other materials, disputes are appropriate as to whether insulation is necessary or not in their case, then there is no reason for doubt: warming a brick bath is a must. The brick has a high thermal conductivity, therefore, without insulation, the bath will heat up for a very long time, and, on the contrary, cool down very quickly.

Just imagine how much time and firewood it takes to heat the walls that have had time to freeze through at sub-zero temperatures. By the way, heaters are always compared with a brick wall, saying that where meters of masonry are needed, you can get by with a few centimeters of insulation.

However, the next question requires more detailed consideration.

Insulation of a brick bath: inside or outside?

In the event that you have to choose between which side it would be better to sheathe the bath with insulation, it is worth seeing what will happen in both cases.

It is clear that when sheathing from the outside, the entire brick of the building is inside a warm “fur coat”, which means that it will have to be warmed up again, because in a room that is heated only from time to time, the temperature of the walls drops even with insulation. And again the lion's share of the heat will go to waste, as if you did not insulate your bathhouse at all.

If we carry out the insulation of a brick bath from the inside, then all the heat will be spent on heating the air in the room, which, in fact, is what we need.

Now that we understand the mechanism of insulation and have decided on the choice of side, it is worth talking about how brick differs from other materials.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath: features

If we compare brick with other materials from which walls are built, for example, with wood, frame or foam concrete, then the main difference will be that these walls are colder than others. In fact, a brick can be considered an artificial stone, and this speaks of both advantages and disadvantages:

Wood gives much more shrinkage and it is combustible. But you can do without additional insulation.

Foam concrete is cheaper than brick, but it must be protected from moisture. But the presence of numerous air bubbles in it, which has a low thermal conductivity, makes this material warmer, which means it takes less time to heat the room and retains heat longer. In low-rise construction, foam concrete has more advantages than disadvantages.

Frame buildings are much less durable than brick ones, while they need insulation no less than the latter.

The creation of bricks with internal voids has reduced the thermal conductivity of the material, but their use is limited by the heat-insulating layer, and the solid brick remains the basis of the load-bearing walls. But even laying in several rows will not solve all the problems with bath thermal insulation, therefore it is more profitable to insulate the walls of a brick bath by sheathing the structure with insulation.

Brick bath insulation: methods

To date, the owners of a brick bath can choose between several methods of internal insulation with a final finish of either tiles or clapboard. Let's start with the method where plaster is used:

1. The first layer on top of a brick wall is its waterproofing, for example, using bituminous mastic. For this, talc, asbestos and lime are added to the mastic. The resulting mass is applied directly to the walls.
2. Then the surface is plastered, and expanded clay and finely chopped slag are mixed into the plaster solution.
3. A crate is placed on the plaster layer, between the bars of which fiberglass is laid - a non-combustible heat insulator similar to asbestos, but environmentally friendly.
4. A layer of insulation is placed on the fiberglass - for example, basalt or kaolin wool.
5. Then everything is covered with a vapor barrier, for example, foil or foil fabric.
6. Only the finishing layer remains - the same lining, for example. It is attached to a crate with a ventilation gap.

1. waterproofing;
2. crate;
3. insulation between the racks of the crate;
4. vapor barrier;
5. reinforcing mesh;
6. plaster;
7. tile.

1. The first layer on top of the inner surface of the wall is waterproofing - either a film or the one described above.
2. A crate of timber with a section of 5x5 is vertically stuffed. The step between the bars is equal to the width of the seal minus 1 cm, so that it lies tightly in the spacer.
3. Fiberglass is attached to the crate without tension.
4. Insulation, for example, basalt wool (not containing phenolic impregnation) is placed in the gaps left between the posts in two layers, with a half-width shift in the second layer so that cold bridges do not appear. The total layer of insulation is 10 cm.
5. A reflective vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation, for example, a simple foil for a steam room and Penofol for other rooms. The vapor barrier is overlapped and sealed with aluminum tape.
6. If the finishing is done with clapboard, then there should be a ventilation gap between the foil and it. To do this, a crate is made of bars of the desired section, on top of which the lining is attached.

The essence of insulation from the inside is shown on the example of a foam block wall, the principles are the same.

Another way is to build an additional wall from a bar:

1. The first layer on top of the brick is the crate.
2. Waterproofing is attached on top of it.
3. A wall is being erected from a bar 10x10 cm, self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
4. The crate is again stuffed over the beam.
5. It is covered with a slight sagging fiberglass.
6. Insulation is placed in between.
7. It is closed with a vapor barrier, for example, foil.
8. A ventilation gap is made with the help of a crate, on which the lining is nailed.

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath

Main difference the steam room from all other rooms of the bath is that it is here that the temperature reaches its maximum. In this regard, great restrictions are imposed on materials that, with such heating, begin to deform or release substances harmful to humans.

For example, if you decide to use mineral wool as a heater, then you need to look for basalt, because they do not apply to it. phenolic impregnations. Do not use and combustible materials to reduce the risk of fire.

Second specific property steam room - high humidity due to steam. Therefore, the insulation layer must be covered with a layer vapor barrier and at the same time achieve complete tightness with adhesive tape. It is also imperative to leave a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the finish.

Besides, it is in the steam room that the task is to quickly heat up and maintain the temperature for a long time. Can help with this an increase in the thickness of the insulation and the use of foil as a vapor barrier. Both turn the steam room into a real "thermos", that is, the heat does not find an outlet and remains in the steam room. But the downside is the severity of a person's stay in such a steam room, which can be offset by competent ventilation. However, the warming of a steam room in a brick bath depends on the personal preferences of the owner.

Floor insulation

A brick bath with its solidity suggests that the owner does not intend to limit himself to warm days in order to take a steam bath in it. And this means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

They all need insulation, just a little different.

Dry wood floor consists of rough and finish, between which there is a gap to the height of the floor beam. This space is filled with insulation. Foamed polystyrene foam will be the best - it is not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool and expanded clay need a hydrobarrier before laying the final floor. It is also possible to insulate with ecowool and Aisinin foam. Alternatively, you can also fill the space under the subfloor with expanded clay, but for this you need to waterproof the soil in advance.

Concrete floor on the ground or concrete screed under pouring floor are insulated the same way.

1. The soil is removed by half a meter.
2. The future water flow is laid - a pit / ladder and pipes to the outside.
3. 15 cm of gravel is poured and rammed.
4. Then 35 cm of sand and rammed.
5. This "pillow" is hermetically sealed with roofing material.
6. A layer of insulation is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, slag, felt with tar.
7. It closes with a hydrobarrier if the insulation is wet.
8. Reinforcing mesh is laid.
9. A concrete screed is poured with the desired slope towards the drain.

Ceiling insulation

Warm air and steam are always collected under the ceiling. Therefore, the owner of the bath must definitely think about warming it so that the heat is not wasted.

This applies to any type of ceiling - hemmed, floor or panel, regardless of what is on top: a cold attic or a warm attic.

The following requirements apply to the insulation used:

• incombustible;
• moisture resistant;
• does not emit harmful substances when heated;
• with low thermal conductivity.

In this plan good expanded clay- it is poured onto a waterproofed draft ceiling between the floor beams from the attic side. And then again isolate from moisture. Instead of expanded clay, you can pour a layer of ecowool.

Also it is good to use basalt wool without phenolic impregnation. But it easily absorbs water, so it needs high-quality insulation from water and steam. Cotton wool can be laid both on top of the flooring boards and hemmed from below.

Styrofoam would be good for the ceiling, but it is flammable and, if poorly manufactured, releases harmful substances when heated.

A brick bath can become very comfortable, but this will require a large investment of labor and money from the owner. Therefore, it is worth going to the construction of such a bath only if it seems completely acceptable.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside or outside, thermal protection of walls, steam room, floor, ceiling

How to make a brick bath not inferior in comfort to a wooden bath? Wall insulation is needed. To do this, you will need high-quality thermal insulation of the steam room and other rooms, the details of which are described in this article. To do from the inside or outside, how to insulate the ceiling and floor, all about the insulation of a brick bath

Brick, as one of the most widely used building materials, is often used to build baths and saunas. At the same time, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside is a mandatory procedure, because by themselves they do not provide sufficiently effective heat retention.

A variety of materials are used to provide the required thermal insulation. In the sections of our article, we will describe the most popular ones, as well as tell you how to insulate a brick bath to achieve maximum effect.

Thermal insulation materials

After the erection of the walls of the bath and the installation of windows and doors into it, it is the turn of the interior decoration. And so that the temperature inside the bath is maintained at a high level for as long as possible (this is important not only for the steam room, but also for other rooms), in addition to decorative finishing, insulation is a mandatory procedure.

To preserve heat and reduce the level of its loss through brick walls, multilayer thermal insulation is most often used. As a rule, one layer is made up of plate materials of considerable thickness, and the second is rather thin rolled insulation with a foil coating. In addition to reflecting infrared waves, they also protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture.

To reduce heat loss baths can be used:

• Reed mats.
• Porous boards based on cellulose fiber or peat.
• Plates of synthetic materials based on polystyrene or polyurethane.
• Roll and plate materials based on mineral wool.
• Glass wool.

As a rule, baths rarely have an exploited underground, so the floors are often arranged directly on the ground with a layer of insulation between the finished floor and the base.

Expanded clay, which has good thermal performance and high mechanical strength, can be used as a heater. The floor poured over such a heater will last for many years without deformation.

Also, extruded polystyrene foam can be chosen as a heater, reliably protected by layers of screed and topcoat from high temperatures inside the steam room.

Steam room ceiling insulation

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room so that hot air is kept indoors for as long as possible.

In one of the publications, we have already touched on the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling. It is also advisable to choose mineral wool roll or plate materials as a ceiling insulation. It is also widely practiced to backfill the floor with expanded clay.

From the point of view of the formation of the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of bricks for the construction of a bath is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are provided in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the selected insulating sandwich scheme. Even if the principle of a consistent increase in vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, the high level of permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this disadvantage. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Brick load-bearing walls are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting in these properties as the complete opposite of log cabins.

We carry out warming of a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bath from ceramic or silicate bricks from the outside. For buildings with periodic heating, the heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time for heating. For this reason, the main thermal insulating layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively as part of the inner sandwich.

Wall sandwich scheme

You can find recommendations for warming brick baths with the help of internal masonry made of wooden beams with a section of 100 × 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why mess with brick at all if the first layer of such insulation is a strong enough wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing extra money and effort in it? The right solution from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, insulation wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account the air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

• decorative interior trim (lining, grooved board, etc.);
• gap 1 - 2 cm;
• folgoizol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
• mineral wool (slabs or roll material 10 cm thick);
• waterproofing membrane.

Insulation of a brick bath is easy to carry out from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently own a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as have enough free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical crate is mounted, equal in thickness to the insulating layer or exceeding it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is laid inside the crate, after which the foil isol is attached to the bars with a stapler. It is better that the strips overlap. The joints of the foil material are insulated with special tape. A horizontal rail is stuffed over the infrared screen, which serves as a support for the finish and a base for the formation of an air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main heat-insulating layer, subject to two conditions:

1. As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an inner surface of polyethylene foam with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
2. An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the screen surface and the expanded polystyrene plates.

Due to these measures, foam plastic or foam plastic does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75 ° C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90 ° C. The slabs are glued to the inner surface of the brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special means

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for a load-bearing wall, but they may indicate a malfunction of the insulation scheme, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of the liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2-3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At sub-zero temperatures, waterlogging is not evident due to the freezing of bricks from the side of the street. In the spring, the condensate accumulated during the winter begins to intensively stand out on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bathhouse and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebbs on the process is excluded. It is necessary to do this in order to align the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the life of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

• add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
• provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
• add an exhaust vent.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of a brick bath

The execution of load-bearing walls made of brick does not carry any conclusions regarding the method of insulating the floor and ceiling. The design of thermal protection of horizontal planes depends solely on the design of the foundation, subfloor, ceiling and under-roof space. Consider only the most common design options for these surfaces in brick baths.

Concrete draft floor on the ground

The device of a warm floor in baths on the ground

Today, the most popular option for insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the use of 10 cm thick expanded polystyrene boards. There is no need to arrange waterproofing between the insulation and concrete, provided that the joints of the XPS boards are carefully sealed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene and a screed 3–5 cm thick is poured on top. On top of the screed, if non-waterproof concrete was used for it, waterproofing is arranged and a plank floor is mounted. In dressing rooms and rest rooms, it is recommended to tile the floor with ceramic tiles. To eliminate cold bridges, along the perimeter of the walls, the finishing screed must be isolated from the base with a vertical layer of expanded polystyrene.

The second common way to insulate a concrete subfloor is the use of expanded clay backfills. Since a significant thickness of this material is required (at least 20 cm), bars of the appropriate section impregnated with a composition that prevents decay are installed on top of the concrete. After backfilling, finishing logs are stuffed onto the beam to install a plank floor. Under the finishing floor with such a scheme, it is mandatory to lay two types of membranes - windproof and waterproof. Between the expanded clay layer and the wind protection, it is necessary to provide an air gap of at least 5 cm.

Internal ceiling insulation

Further (in the direction upwards), subject to the use of a flat plank ceiling, the main heat-shielding layer is located - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. A layer of waterproofing is laid between the mineral wool and the boards.

Regardless of the design of the ceiling and the type of under-roof space, the two inner layers of thermal protection of the ceiling are no different from the equipment of the walls. This is a lumber finish and a foil infrared screen, located taking into account the air gap relative to the cladding.

External ceiling insulation

If the ceiling is made of wooden beams of large cross section (at least 30 cm), the main insulation layer is located on the side of the under-roof space. Expanded clay or eco-wool is poured between the beams. Another common option is to use cellular concrete screeds filled with sawdust or straw. A layer of waterproofing material is necessarily laid on top of the backfill insulation.

Video: the practice of budgetary internal insulation of a brick bath

It makes sense to solve some issues of warming baths of this type even before the start of construction. This will avoid overspending of materials and save money.

1. Since the heat capacity of a brick is an unclaimed resource during the operation of baths, and the thickness of this material has almost no effect on thermal protection, it makes no sense to make thick load-bearing walls. One brick laying is more than sufficient.
2. When choosing a heater, it makes no sense to proceed from the degree of its fire safety, because the finishing interior is still made of a combustible material - wood.
3. If you choose the arrangement of the furnace with its adjoining to a brick wall, you should not try to insulate this area from the inside or outside. All the same, from the inside, the temperature will not allow you to do this, and from the side of the street you will not eliminate cold bridges. Instead of completely adjoining the furnace to the wall, it is better to use an asbestos and steel screen as an intermediate layer. picnic

• Material selection
• Floor insulation
• Bath wall insulation
• Ceiling insulation
• Window and door processing

At sub-zero temperatures, the brick cools very quickly, and it will be difficult and expensive to warm it up later. Therefore, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside becomes the main issue for all those who like to take a steam bath in the cold. The following is the process of warming a brick bath from the inside.

With the help of various building materials, it is easy to insulate the bath with your own hands, so that at sub-zero temperatures a hot atmosphere is always maintained inside.

Material selection

Brick, as is known from practice, quickly cools down and slowly warms up. And it keeps warm like a sieve. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the bath without fail. Otherwise, instead of pleasure and health, a steam bath lover will experience sheer inconvenience against the backdrop of an eternal cold.

The scheme of effective insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

To insulate the bath from the inside, you can use the following materials:

• wood;
• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane boards;
• polystyrene;
• porous cellulose boards;
• pressed reed mats;
• expanded clay.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main role in the choice of material is played by the price. If there is enough money, you can even use a special insulation with foil. It's expensive, but really worth it. A layer of insulation (mineral wool or polymer) does not let the cold in from the outside, and the foil reflects heat from the source back into the room. According to some reports, the return is up to 97% of the generated thermal energy. The goal is to keep a constant high temperature achieved, but at a cost.

Experts advise to apply a differentiated approach to warming the bath from the inside. Simply put, use different heaters in different rooms. For example, in the rest room and locker room you can get by with simple mineral wool, but for the steam room you should fork out for foil.

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Construction begins with the foundation.

So it is better to start warming a brick bath inside from the floor.

Bath floor insulation

First you need to separate the floor from the surface of the earth. To do this, a gap (air cushion) is left between them. The process looks like this:

• wooden bars are placed on the ground;
• expanded clay is poured between them (layer thickness - wall thickness multiplied by 2);
• wooden logs, dried and treated from insects, are laid on this frame;
• an insulating material of your choice is placed between them;
• the joints between the lags and the insulation are filled with mounting foam;
• everything is covered from above with a layer of glassine (a relatively inexpensive, but high-quality insulating material);
• then the main floor is laid from boards or plywood.

After that, you can already lay the main floor.

If a stationary stove is provided in the bath, a solid foundation must be made for it, otherwise its weight will lead to deformation of the floor and its destruction.

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Having finished with the floor, you can move on to the walls. Brickwork, before the insulation closes it, must be treated with a liquid from fungus and mold. Some advise limiting the processing of the steam room and shower, but moisture will penetrate everywhere, so it is better to process all the walls.

Bath ceiling insulation scheme

The process in general terms goes as follows. Blow out the joints of window frames and walls with mounting foam, repeat the same with doors. Wooden beams of the frame are attached to the walls. It is better not to use metal, because it is prone to corrosion and takes heat. Then we lay and fasten the selected type of insulation (if it is glued, the walls must be treated with a primer). The next step is to fix the insulating layer. Foil, glassine, kraft paper is good for this purpose, although the latter can get wet and deteriorate over time.

A counter-lattice treated with antiseptic agents is attached over the insulating layer to create ventilation gaps. Boards for wall cladding are attached from above.

Different materials imply their own special technologies. But in general, the sequence of actions is the same as described above.

It should be borne in mind that you need to insulate the bath as a whole, and not just individual rooms. Otherwise, the "cold" areas will draw heat onto themselves.

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Heat in a brick bath is also lost through the ceiling. Especially strong heat loss can be in one-story baths, and an air cushion in the attic will not help. Therefore, you need to do the insulation of the ceiling too.

The work is carried out after the insulation of the floor and walls of the bath has been done. A typical workflow is as follows:

• fiberglass panels are overlapped on the overlap, the joints are glued together with adhesive tape or glue;
• a mixture of sand, clay and coarsely chopped straw is applied on top, it is also called "adobe" (thickness not less than 30 cm);
• polystyrene (polystyrene) plates are placed on top of this layer;
• a layer of concrete is poured on them (at least 10 cm thick);
• on the resulting "rough ceiling" the bars of the crate, treated with an antiseptic, are laid;
• mineral wool slabs are placed between them;
• foil is placed on top of the insulation (it is necessary above the steam room and shower room);
• the whole structure is closed with boards so that between them and the surface of the insulation there is an air gap of at least 10 cm.

Such a ceiling will reliably retain heat even in the most severe frosts.

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It is impossible to insulate a brick bath without sealing windows and doors. Through them there is a serious loss of heat, so even if you properly insulated the floor, walls and ceiling, the room may still not warm up due to cracks in the frames and loose doors.

If you are a supporter of natural materials and have installed wooden doors and window frames, you need to carefully caulk all the cracks.

Glasses must be carefully fitted to the size of the frames and tightly held in the grooves. The joints are covered with putty so that it also covers the nails that fasten the glass. By the way, a window of 1 glass is not suitable for a bathhouse, it is better to put frames on 2 glasses, or even 3.

In the latter case, a double-glazed window would be an ideal solution. It will provide reliable sealing, thanks to which the windows will not fog up and rot from excess moisture.

You can turn to proven folk traditions that were used by our grandfathers and great-grandfathers. To reduce heat loss, the windows in the bath were lowered as low as possible in relation to the ground, the door was made low, and the threshold was high.

Now, after the insulation work has been completed, you can safely bathe all year round without fear that the winter winds will blow precious heat out of the bath.

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How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands?

Comparing a brick bath with a wooden one, you understand that it wins several times over in terms of quality. First, the brick does not burn. Secondly, it is not at all afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from the penetration of cold air. Therefore, such a process as warming a brick bath is a prerequisite for the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation from the outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can only be carried out from the inside. For example, if the bath is built right next to some other building. Or a brick wall acts as a facade finish. But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bath is heated intermittently, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start to heat it, then all the heat will go to warm the walls, and only after that to the interior. So, in this article we will consider the second option - warming a brick bath from the inside.

Insulation options

Immediately make a reservation that there are a large number of different ways where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Consider the main options that you can do with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the masters to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which are placed in the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

• The internal surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, it is necessary to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that rolled material is used for these purposes.
• Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
• Now insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimal thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

• After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
• And already on the crate itself, the lining is mounted.

Often, experts use double wall insulation, while installing two battens with heaters 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But here it is better not to refuse the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only wooden with a heat-insulating layer. To do this, a frame of wooden slats is installed on the brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. It is up to everyone to decide. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:

• Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
• Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. Such a thickness of a wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
• And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If “yes”, then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
• And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.

Advice! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different rooms that carry their purely purpose. So in all rooms except the steam room, you can use any heat-insulating materials as a heater. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

Insulation of other building elements

In addition to walls in a brick bath, insulation of other structures is also required. Those who carry out these construction operations for the first time with their own hands make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to the compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were built from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, the foundation will have to be insulated.

The easiest option is to glue foam boards to its inner surfaces. Their thickness of 5-7 cm is the best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this trouble can be corrected by foaming the slots with mounting foam.
Do not forget to insulate the ceiling, and if possible, the roof. The more investments in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings on fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were proposed, answering the question of how to insulate a brick bath. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in these methods; even a beginner can do them with their own hands. Here it is important to accurately follow the stages of ongoing construction operations, plus be able to use simple construction tools. But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products, which must be treated with antiseptics.

utepleniem.ru

Do-it-yourself warming of a brick bath from the inside and outside

From the point of view of the formation of the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of bricks for the construction of a bath is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are provided in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the selected insulating sandwich scheme. Even if the principle of a consistent increase in vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, the high level of permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this disadvantage. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Brick load-bearing walls are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting in these properties as the complete opposite of log cabins.

We carry out warming of a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bath from ceramic or silicate bricks from the outside. For buildings with periodic heating, the heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time for heating. For this reason, the main thermal insulating layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively as part of the inner sandwich.

You can find recommendations for warming brick baths with the help of internal masonry made of wooden beams with a section of 100 x 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why mess with brick at all if the first layer of such insulation is a strong enough wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing extra money and effort in it? The right solution from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, insulation wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account the air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath

• decorative interior finish (lining, grooved board, etc.);
• gap 1 - 2 cm;
• folgoizol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
• mineral wool (slabs or roll material 10 cm thick);
• waterproofing membrane.

Insulation of a brick bath is easy to carry out from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently own a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as have enough free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical crate is mounted, with a thickness equal to the insulating layer or exceeding it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is laid inside the crate, after which the foil isol is attached to the bars with a stapler. It is better that the strips overlap. The joints of the foil material are insulated with special tape. A horizontal rail is stuffed over the infrared screen, which serves as a support for the finish and a base for the formation of an air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main heat-insulating layer, subject to two conditions:

1. As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an inner surface of polyethylene foam with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
2. An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the screen surface and the expanded polystyrene plates.

Due to these measures, foam or polystyrene does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75°C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90°C. The slabs are glued to the inner surface of the brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special means

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for a load-bearing wall, but they may indicate a malfunction of the insulation scheme, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of the liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At sub-zero temperatures, waterlogging is not evident due to the freezing of bricks from the side of the street. In the spring, the condensate accumulated during the winter begins to intensively stand out on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bathhouse and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebbs on the process is excluded. It is necessary to do this in order to align the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the life of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

Adding foil insulation

• add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
• provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
• add an exhaust vent.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of a brick bath

The execution of load-bearing walls made of brick does not carry any conclusions regarding the method of insulating the floor and ceiling. The design of thermal protection of horizontal planes depends solely on the design of the foundation, subfloor, ceiling and under-roof space. Consider only the most common design options for these surfaces in brick baths.

Concrete draft floor on the ground

The device of a warm floor in baths on the ground

Today, the most popular option for insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the use of 10 cm thick expanded polystyrene boards. There is no need to arrange waterproofing between the insulation and concrete, provided that the joints of the XPS boards are carefully sealed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene and a screed 3–5 cm thick is poured on top. On top of the screed, if non-waterproof concrete was used for it, waterproofing is arranged and a plank floor is mounted. In dressing rooms and rest rooms, it is recommended to tile the floor with ceramic tiles. To eliminate cold bridges, along the perimeter of the walls, the finishing screed must be isolated from the base with a vertical layer of expanded polystyrene.

The second common way to insulate a concrete subfloor is the use of expanded clay backfills. Since a significant thickness of this material is required (at least 20 cm), bars of the appropriate section impregnated with a composition that prevents decay are installed on top of the concrete. After backfilling, finishing logs are stuffed onto the beam to install a plank floor. Under the finishing floor with such a scheme, it is imperative to lay two types of membranes - windproof and waterproof. Between the expanded clay layer and the wind protection, it is necessary to provide an air gap of at least 5 cm.

Internal ceiling insulation

Insulation of the bath ceiling with mineral wool

Further (in the upward direction), subject to the use of a flat plank ceiling, the main heat-shielding layer is located - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. A layer of waterproofing is laid between the mineral wool and the boards.

Regardless of the design of the ceiling and the type of under-roof space, the two inner layers of thermal protection of the ceiling are no different from the equipment of the walls. This is a lumber finish and a foil infrared screen, located taking into account the air gap relative to the cladding.

External ceiling insulation

If the ceiling is made of wooden beams of large cross section (at least 30 cm), the main insulation layer is located on the side of the under-roof space. Expanded clay or eco-wool is poured between the beams. Another common option is to use cellular concrete screeds filled with sawdust or straw. A layer of waterproofing material is necessarily laid on top of the backfill insulation.

Video: the practice of budgetary internal insulation of a brick bath

It makes sense to solve some issues of warming baths of this type even before the start of construction. This will avoid overspending of materials and save money.

1. Since the heat capacity of a brick is an unclaimed resource during the operation of baths, and the thickness of this material has almost no effect on thermal protection, it makes no sense to make thick load-bearing walls. One brick laying is more than sufficient.
2. When choosing a heater, it makes no sense to proceed from the degree of its fire safety, because the finishing interior is still made of combustible material - wood.
3. If you choose the arrangement of the furnace with its adjoining to a brick wall, you should not try to insulate this area from the inside or outside. All the same, from the inside, the temperature will not allow you to do this, and from the side of the street you will not eliminate cold bridges. Instead of completely adjoining the furnace to the wall, it is better to use a screen made of asbestos and steel as an intermediate layer.

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uteplenieplus.ru

How to choose a material and insulate a brick bath from the inside

• Which insulation will be better - external or internal?
• Options for thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside
  • Building an additional wall
  • Insulation in two layers
• Why insulate the foundation of a brick bath
• Bath ceiling insulation

To figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside, you need to understand the performance characteristics of the wall material. Compared to a wooden sauna, a brick building has the advantage that neither fire protection nor waterproofing is required. A brick bath has only such a drawback as a small thermal conductivity. This prevents the room of the bath or sauna from warming up well, and the heat is not completely retained. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the building, brick walls can be insulated.

In order for the bath to be warm, it must be built in one and a half or two bricks.

If we are talking about a private bath, it does not make sense to maintain a constant temperature above zero from the inside all the time. But due to periodic use in the cold season, the walls can freeze through, and when trying to flood the bathhouse, all the heat goes mainly to heat the stone. When performing insulation from the outside, the brick almost does not heat up, only the lining covers it, so much more resources will be spent on heating than it could.

Thermal insulation of the bath walls from the inside helps to reduce fuel costs. When properly installed, the heat-insulating material does not release heated air outside, and it is stored inside the room.