How to install a heating radiator yourself in an apartment. Replacing heating batteries

The company "Vodokanalsbyt" is a large company providing high-quality plumbing services in Moscow and the region. Our capabilities allow us to successfully solve even the most complex tasks.

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Installation work - from 2,400 rubles

Dismantling the radiator - FREE OF CHARGE!

Departure of the measurer - FREE OF CHARGE!

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We are professionally engaged in the replacement of heating batteries in apartments and houses at low prices. We provide a full range of services and guarantee conscientiousness and responsible approach. Installation is carried out by experienced craftsmen with high-precision tools and appropriate skills.

Over the years of work, we have developed an optimal algorithm for cooperation with the customer. We are ready to go to any object, whether it is an apartment, office or private house. Information about market conditions, accumulated technical knowledge and strong business ties with manufacturers have made Vodokanalsbyt one of the industry leaders.

Prompt interaction with direct suppliers of materials and equipment allows us to set prices recommended by manufacturers. This eliminates multiple intermediary markups, overpayments and additional payments.

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The cost of replacing heating radiators and risers of cold water, hot water in an apartment

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The cost of work is also fixed and does not increase in the process of execution.

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Distance from floor to window sill:

Area of ​​the 1st room Number of batteries 1 2 3

SPECIAL OFFER!!!

RADIATOR REPLACEMENT COST
HEATING - 2 400 RUB.
(WHEN REPLACING 2 OR MORE RADIATORS)

*The final cost of installation and consumables is calculated by a field specialist and depends on
the complexity of the work, the required type of connection and type of connection (threaded, welded, polypropylene, cross-linked
polyethylene, presence/absence of bypass, etc.)
The cost of sections (calculated by area).

ADVANTAGES OF VODOKANALSBYT

• More than 15 years of work in the field of sanitary communications;
• Warranty for work from 5 years;
• Warranty for radiators and components from 10 years;
• Free consultations;
• Qualified specialists;
• Preparation and production of components for individual orders;
• Replacement of heating radiators on welding and threaded connections.

What you need to know when installing heating radiators?

The heating system is the most important element of comfort of any apartment or house. It ensures the desired air temperature in the room, regardless of the weather outside. That is why only professionals should be involved in installing heating batteries in apartments and houses.

The heating system works under high pressure, and there are no trifles with it. In addition, existing radiators made of different materials are designed for specific loads and operating modes. With an ill-conceived and illiterate approach, the efficiency of even expensive premium equipment can decrease. And unqualified installation of heating radiators carries a real threat of accidents and leaks, which may cause large financial losses.

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In order to take on the independent installation (replacement) of heating radiators, you must:

• have time and desire;
• know how to connect batteries;
• learn the rules for proper connection;
• make accurate calculations and measurements;
• have the necessary tools.

We skip the first point, because if there is a desire, nothing is impossible. Plus, a good practical experience can come in handy more than once. Let's move on to the next one.

Methods for wiring radiators

• Lateral one-way connection. This type of connection is the most common. It consists in attaching the inlet pipe to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. This method of connection provides the greatest heat transfer. If hot water is supplied from below, the supply pipe is connected to the lower branch pipe, the power is reduced by 5-7%. If a one-sided side connection is used when installing multi-section radiators, and the last sections do not warm up enough, an extension water flow is additionally installed.
• Bottom connection. This type of battery wiring is used in cases where heating pipes are hidden in the floor or under the baseboard. This is the most acceptable connection method, from an aesthetic point of view. Both pipes (supply and return) are located below and are directed vertically into the floor.
• Diagonal connection it is rational to apply in relation to multi-section radiators (from 12 sections and more). The principle of tying is that the hot water supply pipe is connected to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is led out through the lower pipe on the reverse side.

• At serial connection the coolant moves under the action of pressure inside the heating system. To remove excess air, a Mayevsky crane is installed on the radiators. The disadvantage of such a connection: replacing the radiator, repairing it or an emergency requires a complete shutdown of the heating system, which is not very convenient to do in the cold season.
• Installation of radiators for parallel connection provides for such a wiring in which the coolant enters through a heat pipe built into the heating system. The withdrawal is carried out in the same way. Installed taps at the inlet and outlet allow you to replace the radiator without turning off the general heating system. The disadvantage of this connection is that the radiators do not warm up enough at low pressure in the system.

We connect correctly!

It doesn’t matter if you are going to install bimetallic, aluminum or cast iron batteries, the general installation rules apply to all types. To ensure normal heat transfer and the movement of warm air, the established distance must be observed, namely:

1. For normal circulation of heated air, which has a positive effect on the heat transfer of the heat source, it is necessary to ensure a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the upper grille to the window sill.
2. There should be a gap of 8-12 cm between the lower surface of the heating battery and the floor.
3. The distance between the radiator and the wall is 2-5cm. If you plan to install reflective thermal insulation on the wall, the standard fasteners may be short. In such cases, buy hooks-clamps of a slightly longer length.

Calculation of the required number of radiator sections

The initial information for the calculation can be found when buying batteries. But you can use the good old rule: one section is able to heat 2 square meters of area with a ceiling height of 2.7 m. When calculating, they round up. Naturally, heating a corner apartment of a panel house and an insulated cottage are two big differences, so the calculation of the required number of sections should be done individually, based on the technical characteristics of the radiators and specific conditions.

Tool for installing or replacing radiators

The required set of tools includes: a screwdriver, pliers, a building level, a tape measure, a pencil, a wrench for tightening pipes, an impact drill. To install the sections, you will need a special key, so we recommend ordering the assembly and connection of the sections directly in the store. When installing bimetallic radiators with your own hands, do not use emery or a file to clean the surfaces to be joined.

Procedure for replacing radiators

• dismantling the old battery;
• markings for attaching a new one;
• installation of brackets and a canopy of the radiator;
• assembly of the mounting kit, installation of a tap and a valve for a thermal head, a Mayevsky tap;
• connection of heating pipes.

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Discussion:

Sergei said:

Mr (Ms) Ann!!! It is necessary for you not just to flip through textbooks on heat engineering! And you need to start with a textbook on natural history in elementary grades, which says that when heated, liquids and gases rise up, and when cooled, they fall down. Hot coolant can enter the lower corner of the radiator and exit from the lower corner of the opposite side. And the hot water will definitely rise to the top. The main condition is the absence of an air lock. To eliminate it, Mayevsky's satellite is installed.

Elena said:

hello, I have a problem after replacing the heating throughout the house, bimetal radiators were installed instead of cast-iron batteries. which do not heat, I can not find the reason. I live in a multi-apartment, two-story building, a riser from the supply from the second floor, one for two rooms. wound up with a pipe with a cross section of 20, then it goes to 15mm -20 cm, then the first battery goes, then 1.5 meters of a pipe with a cross section of 15 mm goes through the first battery and the second battery, which crashes into the return line. The first (10 sections) only the upper part is heated. The second (12 sections) barely warm upper part. This year, the second one was looped back and the first one became even worse, please tell me, we have been freezing for two years already. there is no air in the battery, the dirt has also been removed and washed.

Most often, you have to deal with the replacement of heating radiators during a major overhaul. They are usually changed after installing windows and window sills.

Radiators create a warm and comfortable stay in the house, which means that their installation must be competent and durable.

It is very important to understand how to install a heating radiator correctly.

There are several ways to mount radiators. Most often they are mounted under the windows, and sometimes on the walls and in the hallway at the entrance. To install batteries, brackets or racks are used, which are fixed on the wall surface.

Pipes are connected to the battery from two (or one) sides and from below. If pipes are provided on one side, then you need to clearly calculate the number of sections, since half of the radiator may remain cold. Experts recommend not to install more than 12 sections if the water circulation occurs naturally. With artificially created circulation, the number of sections can be increased to 24.

How to install a radiator?

If you want to install a large number of sections, then you need to worry about how to bring the pipes to the heaters.

When calculating the number of sections and installing a radiator, you need to take into account the throughput of the pipes. It is determined by the internal diameter of the product and the roughness coefficient.

In order to properly install the heating system, which will provide maximum heat output, you need to follow several rules when making calculations:

• to make it convenient to clean under the battery, the distance from the floor to the bottom of the battery should be about 10 cm;
• there should be a gap of up to 5 cm between the wall and the radiator. If the distance is smaller, heating will start not of the room, but of the wall;
• from the radiator to the window sill should be 10 cm.

In order to be able to adjust the heat output of the heating battery automatically or manually, it is necessary to take care of the installation of thermostatic fittings in advance. In the event of a leak or other emergency, it will be possible to autonomously turn off the heating system. Automatic control of the heating system is possible due to the installation of thermostatic valves directly on the valve.

If the installation of valves is provided for a heating system with one pipe, then in advance you need to make sure that the two pipes have jumpers between them. If they are not available, installation of thermal heads is not allowed.

In addition to the listed elements, the heating radiator must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. The tap serves to remove air from the batteries and from the entire heating system. This procedure is carried out at the beginning of the heating season and then periodically during the operation of devices for heating the room.

Stages of installation of a heating battery

1. It is necessary to mark the wall surface for future brackets, and then fix them.
2. Put the Mayevsky crane on the heating battery together with the control valves (if necessary) and the plug.
3. Using a level, it is necessary to fix the radiator on the brackets.
4. Connect the radiators to the pipes of the heating system.

To make sure that the battery works smoothly, you need to make the first start. If you do not have the necessary plumbing skills, then. in order to properly install radiators, it is better to use the help of specialists. If the heating system is installed incorrectly, a pipe rupture may occur with all the unpleasant consequences.

To ensure the smooth operation of thermal valves and increase heat output, it is better not to put various decorative grilles on the radiator. It is also better to put furniture away from heating radiators.

When choosing radiators, you need to remember the maximum temperature of the heat carrier in the centralized heating system. Usually it is 65-105 degrees. In apartment buildings, the pressure level is usually 10 atm.

How are bimetal radiators installed?

Since hydraulic shocks occur on the heating system at the beginning of the heating period, it is worthwhile to give preference to bimetallic batteries or those in which the operating pressure is more than 16 atm when choosing batteries.

Panel steel batteries are best installed in private homes. You should be aware that the declared power of radiators can be much higher than it actually is.

Currently, bimetallic radiators are considered one of the most efficient batteries. They have a high heat dissipation. Their modern design will suit almost any interior.

The following tools and materials are required to install batteries

• water tanks;
• torque wrenches;
• perforator;
• building level;
• pencil;
• roulette.

Installation steps for bimetallic batteries

Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, window sill.

First of all, you need to find out the diameter of the supply pipes. After that, you should order a mounting kit of a suitable size. The scope of supply of the bimetallic radiator includes:

• air release valve;
• adapter for Mayevsky valve;
• two adapters;
• plug;
• brackets;
• gaskets under the plug and adapter.

It is necessary to prepare containers in advance, turn off the water and drain its remnants from the heating system. After that, the old radiator is dismantled by unscrewing the threaded connections of the outlet and inlet pipes.

Bracket installation locations are marked. During operation, it is recommended to attach radiators to the pipe connections. Using the building level, horizontalness is checked. Fasteners are applied to the installation site and mounting holes are marked with a pencil.

Holes of the required diameter are drilled in the designated places with the help of a perforator. If the number of sections is not more than 8, then three brackets will suffice. If sections are from 8 to 12, then 4 fasteners must be installed.

On the prepared brackets, the radiator is installed in such a way that all horizontal collectors are on hooks. One of the features of the installation of such radiators is that the entire kit must be in the package until it is installed.

Each radiator should be equipped with a Mayevsky valve, which is included in the delivery. To tighten the valve, use a torque wrench. After that, thermostatic and shutoff valves are installed.

Next, the bimetallic radiator is connected to the heat pipes of the heating system. It is not recommended to clean the surfaces to be joined with a file or sandpaper: this will lead to leakage.

The technology for installing heating batteries is quite simple. Having studied the sequence of work and having prepared the necessary tools and materials, the installation can be done independently.

The device or reconstruction of the heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that if you wish, you can do it yourself without involving specialists. How the installation of heating radiators should take place, where and how to locate them, what is needed for the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. The set of necessary materials is almost the same, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, the plugs are large, and the Mayevsky tap is not installed, but, somewhere at the highest point of the system, an automatic air vent is installed. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - brackets are included with them, and on the back panel there are special shackles cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is a small device for venting air that can accumulate in the radiator. It is placed on a free upper outlet (collector). Must be on every heater when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is much smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so another adapter is required, but Mayevsky taps usually come with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connecting dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky tap, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be placed on radiators, but they are slightly larger and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

There are four outlets for the radiator with lateral connection. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they put a Mayevsky crane. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves with the ability to adjust. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repair, replacement during the heating season). In this case, even if something happened to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the minus is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it smaller), and they look better outwardly, they are available in straight and angular versions, so the strapping itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can put a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of the heater. If the radiator does not heat well, they cannot be installed - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different temperature controllers for batteries - automatic electronic, but more often they use the simplest - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on the walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

• if the sections are not more than 8 or the length of the radiator is not more than 1.2 m, two attachment points from above and one from below are sufficient;
• for every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

Takde need a fum tape or linen winding, plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (a level is better, but a regular bubble one is also suitable), a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. In order to prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heater must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It needs to be installed:

How to install

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is highly desirable that the wall behind the radiator be flat - it is easier to work this way. The middle of the opening is marked on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the upper edge of the heater is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the upper edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the course of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

wall mount

This must be taken into account when mounting hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heater is easily adjusted by screwing and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is fasteners for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks for heating radiators, please note that the main load falls on the top fasteners. The lower one serves only for fixing in a given position relative to the wall and it is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation site, look where the bracket will “fit”, mark the place on the wall. After putting the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, the bracket is screwed onto the screws. Having installed all the fasteners, the heater is hung on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or sheathed with drywall, floor installation is required. Some types of cast-iron and steel radiators come with legs right away, but they do not suit everyone in terms of appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of radiators from aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then a heater is installed, the lower collector is fixed with an arc on the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height, there are fixed ones. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - on nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Heating radiator piping options

Installation of heating radiators involves their connection to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

• saddle;
• unilateral;
• diagonal.

If you install radiators with a bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly ties the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, because otherwise you simply won’t get heat. With a side connection, there are more options ().

Binding with one-way connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on the spurs. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, two ball valves, two tees and two spurs are needed - parts with external threads at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a single-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or lowering the system. You can’t put a tap on the bypass - you will block the movement of the coolant along the riser with it, which is unlikely to please the neighbors and, most likely, you will fall under a fine.

All threaded connections are sealed with fum-tape or linen winding, on top of which packing paste is applied. When screwing the tap into the radiator manifold, a lot of winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating appliances, except for cast iron. When installing all the rest, please, without fanaticism.

If you have the skills / ability to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower one, taps, of course, are needed.

With lower wiring (pipes are laid along the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly, it is much better to use a diagonal connection in this case.

Binding with diagonal connection

Installing heating radiators with a diagonal connection is the best option in terms of heat transfer. She is the highest in this case. With a lower wiring, this type of connection is implemented easily (example in the photo) - supply from one side at the top, return from the other at the bottom.

A single pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look so good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With lower wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and most inconspicuous.

With saddle connection and bottom single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed, if necessary, you can remove the radiator, and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a drive (a piece of pipe of the desired length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen infrequently - too large heat losses (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

Own boiler room in the house provides year-round coziness and comfort: you can turn on the heat supply at any time in the cold summer, turn it off with the arrival of heat in the spring.

Independence from the vagaries of public utilities and the heating schedule with CHP is an indisputable advantage of the autonomous system of a private house.

Requirements for the location of the radiator in a private house

Radiators need to be installed in places of greatest heat loss in the house (window openings and entrance doors).

As a rule, heating devices are installed under each window of the dwelling and in the hallway on the wall, next to the front door of the house, as a thermal curtain and a dryer for wet things.

For maximum heat transfer from the heating device, the following optimal distances from the radiator are available:

• To the floor 8-12 cm;
• to the windowsill 9-11 cm;
• to the wall 5-6 cm;
• radiator protrusion beyond the window sill 3-5 cm(so that the heat from the radiator heats the window block).

Requirements for the construction of the wall and floor:

• Wall on which the heater will be mounted, must be plastered.
• When attached to a plasterboard wall in it beforehand install a reinforcing frame from a bar.
• Floor Mounts for radiator installed on the finished floor.

Installation tool:

• Drill or perforator,
• Drill 10 mm,
• Hammer,
• screwdriver for screwing self-tapping screws when using corner brackets,
• Construction level with spirit level or laser,
• Pencil,
• Roulette,
• Ring key plastic,
• American key.

Wiring diagrams

The radiator has openings at the ends for connecting pipes with coolant supply to the radiator and its removal (return). Exist the following connection diagrams:

Lateral

The pipe with the coolant supply is connected to the top hole on the end of the radiator. The coolant passes through all sections from top to bottom and is discharged through the return pipe connected to the lower hole at the same end.

In the upper hole on the other end is installed Mayevsky crane for bleeding excess air. A plug is placed in the remaining bottom hole.

• It is used in apartments with a single-pipe coolant supply system.
• Radiator length no more than 1 m(heat loss increases with the number of sections).

Diagonal

The coolant supply is through the upper hole on one side, the return outlet is through the lower hole on the other side of the radiator. The coolant flows diagonally from top to bottom.

• Efficient heat transfer with any number of sections.
• Allows connect several radiators in series.

lower and saddle

The supply pipe enters the bottom hole on one side, the return pipe exits through the bottom hole on the other side of the heater.

Photo 1. The lower connection diagram for a heating radiator: pipes run between the floor and the battery.

• It is used for hidden piping in the floor.
• Thermal efficiency 30% lower than diagonal(stagnation of the coolant in the upper part of the radiator).

Reference! Most often in private houses heating pipes laid on the wall between the radiator and the floor. Next to the radiator, bends are made upwards with a diagonal connection.

Accessories for mounting batteries for heating

To install the battery, you need a number of accessories.

installation kit

Consists of two futorok with right-hand thread, two futorok with left, plugs, Mayevsky crane, three brackets and three dowels.

Futorki ( adapters 1 - ½ inch) are screwed into the radiator holes, into which a direct outlet and return are supplied. On the right side of the radiator - right-hand thread (screwing the fitting clockwise), on the left - left-hand thread (counterclockwise). A Mayevsky crane is placed in the upper right hole, and a plug is placed in the remaining hole.

Photo 2. A set of four fittings with right and left threads is required for mounting the radiator.

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Flax sanitary and paste-sealant

Linen is used for thread packaging. Under the action of water, it swells and seals gaps in threaded connections.

Paste-sealant Unipak seals the flax in the thread, protects it from decay, facilitates screwing bushings.

Shut-off valves

Ball valves are used to shut off pipes, placed on the supply pipe. A control valve is placed on the return. The connecting part of the tap or valve is an American - a detachable connection with a union nut. Consists of two parts. Part of an American with external thread 1/2” screwed into the inner hole of the radiator cap.

The American allows you to easily connect the radiator to the tap and remove it.

Marking the wall for brackets

Markup algorithm for radiators up to 10 sections. Two brackets at the top along the edges, one at the bottom in the middle.

1. measure window opening length, mark on the wall middle point(under the window sill).
2. Swipe from marked point vertical line down to the floor.
3. Mark point (A) on a vertical line at a distance of 10 cm from the window sill.
4. Spend horizontal line through the marked point (A).
5. Measure the distance on the radiator between the mounting points of the upper brackets.

Photo 3. Choosing a place on the wall where the radiator will be located, determining the method of fixing the upper brackets.

1. Set aside on both sides of the point (A) on a horizontal line segments with a length, equal to half the distance on the radiator.
2. Set aside on the center vertical line segment from point (A) down 50 cm long - place bottom bracket installation.
3. Drill holes for brackets. Keep the drill strictly horizontal so that the drill in the wall does not go sideways.
4. Hammer the dowels, screw the brackets the required distance from the wall.

Radiator assembly process

Important! Do not wind flax on the thread of the futhorok itself! Flax performs the function of a gasket between the futorka and the end of the battery. Do not use silicone to lubricate flax. Silicone does not allow flax to swell in water and seal the joint.

Proper battery installation

The heating radiator is installed in several stages.

American bushing packing

Mounting

1. Install an American in the hole of the futorka tighten by hand until it stops, avoiding distortion.
2. Insert the key for the American and begin to carefully tighten the sleeve. The sleeve should be tightened with a felt effort, but without jamming.
3. After fully tightening the sleeve to the full length of the thread clean the installation site from excess paste with a napkin.

How to install the device on brackets?

1. visit the radiator on the installed brackets.
2. Adjust the position of the brackets, bending them vertically, achieving a tight fit of the radiator on the upper and lower brackets without any play.

strapping

1. Attach strictly along the axis to the American sleeve its counterpart on the tap or valve.
2. Tighten the union nut by hand until it stops.
3. Perform installation of pipe fittings and shut-off and control valves at the location of the radiator.

Important! Do not put linen under the union nut! The sealing of the American connection occurs due to the rubber ring at the end of the sleeve. Do not overtighten the union nut! It will be correct to make a reserve so that it is possible to tighten the nut.