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How to install a bracket for a heating radiator. Installation of bimetallic radiators

Necessary tools and materials

Not a single construction or installation process can be carried out without a certain set of tools and devices. In this case, you need to know what you need to install a heating radiator. Most often, the same set is used, with some exceptions.

For example, aluminum and bimetallic radiators are installed in the same way, and cast-iron batteries are installed according to a different scheme. They require the use of larger plugs, and Mayevsky's tap is replaced with an automatic air vent, installing it at the highest point of the system. Steel panel-type radiators have metal arms and are equipped with brackets for hanging.

Air vent devices

Heating radiators always accumulate air, which must be periodically discharged. Mayevsky cranes are installed on aluminum and bimetallic radiators for this purpose. Most often it is located on a free upper collector. In size, this device is slightly smaller than the outlet, so an adapter is additionally installed, which comes with the faucet. When choosing a Mayevsky crane, you should focus on the diameter of the collector.

In addition to this device, automatic air vents are used, which are also suitable for installation on radiators. However, automatic devices are large, and their body can only be brass or nickel-plated. Therefore, on white enamelled radiators, such a device does not look very attractive. This greatly reduces the demand for automatic air vents.

Stubs

Radiators with side connection have four outlets. The pipeline of the heating system is connected to two of them, the Mayevsky crane is most often installed on the third, and the fourth outlet is closed with a plug. This element does not spoil the appearance of a modern battery, as it is painted with white enamel.

Locking elements

In the process of installing batteries in the apartment, you will definitely need cranes. They can be ball or shut-off, the second option allows you to adjust the heat transfer. The valves are located at the inlet of the pipeline to the radiator and at its outlet. Ball valves allow you to disconnect the battery from the general system in case of emergency repair or replacement during the heating season. In this case, the supply of coolant to the battery is stopped without prejudice to the operation of the entire system. Ball valves have a relatively low price, which gives them a great advantage over similar devices. However, with their help it is impossible to regulate the heat transfer of the heating device, which serves as a negative characteristic of the device.

Shut-off control valves shut off the water supply to the radiator in emergency cases, and at the same time allow you to change the intensity of the coolant flow. In addition, such devices look more attractive and have two configurations, straight and angled. This makes it possible to make the binding more accurate. But it should be borne in mind that the cost of shut-off control valves is several points higher than the price of ball valves.

In some cases, when using ball valves, thermostats are installed. They can be electronic, automatic and mechanical. With this device, you can change the heat dissipation of the battery. But it should be remembered that these devices can only reduce the flow, therefore, such a device should not be installed on poorly heating radiators.

Additional tools and materials

For models of wall-mounted radiators, you should purchase hooks or brackets, the number of which is selected depending on the number of sections of the heating device:

If the number of sections does not exceed 8, and the length is less than 1.2 meters, then the device is attached at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom.
Each next 5-6 sections require additional fastening.

In addition, in the process of resolving the issue of how to install a heating radiator on your own, you will need linen winding and plumbing paste, which ensure the tightness of the connections. You should also take care of the presence of a drill, drill bits and a level. Dowels may be useful. In addition, it is necessary to purchase or rent equipment for connecting pipes and fittings.

Selecting an installation location

Before you install a heating radiator in an apartment, it is important to correctly determine its location. In most cases, heating appliances are placed under the window so that the warm flow prevents cold from entering the room from the window opening. The width of the heating radiator should be 70-75 percent of the width of the window, in which case the glass will fog up less.

There are certain rules for installing heating batteries in an apartment under a window:

The device must be exactly in the middle with an error of no more than 2 cm.
The distance from the floor to the heating device can be from 8 to 12 cm.
Between the window sill and the radiator, a clearance of 10-12 cm is required.
A gap of 2-5 cm should be left between the wall and the back wall of the device.

Compliance with these rules will allow warm air to circulate normally in the room, providing efficient heating.

Rules for installing heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators under the window must be carried out in compliance with certain rules:

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to level the wall, this will make the installation process much easier.
Then mark the middle of the window opening on the wall.
Then measure 10-12 cm from the window sill and draw a horizontal line, it will serve as a guide to align the upper edge of the radiator.
The brackets are mounted in different ways, so you should find out how to properly install radiators. If the heating system has a circulation pump, then the radiator should be placed strictly horizontally. For radiators in a system with natural movement of the coolant, it is necessary to make a slope of 1% in the direction of the water. A higher level of slope can cause stagnation.

Wall mounting methods

The above rules are important to take into account when installing fasteners. To fix the hook in the wall, it is necessary to drill a hole, insert a plastic dowel into it and screw the fastener into it. Such a device allows you to easily adjust the distance from the radiator to the wall, you just need to screw or unscrew the hook.

When installing heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, it is important to understand how the load from the radiator is distributed to the hooks. The weight of the device is mainly supported by the upper fasteners, the lower hook only fixes the device in the desired position. So that nothing interferes with hanging the radiator, the lower fasteners are placed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the level of the lower outlet of the heating device.

The bracket for the radiator is installed in a different way. Before installing the heating battery, it is applied to the wall. Then mark the places where it is planned to install the brackets. Putting the radiator aside, attach the bracket to the wall and mark the points of its attachment. Holes are made in the marked places, dowels are inserted into them, and the bracket is fixed to the wall with screws. After installing all the fasteners, the radiator is installed in place.

Installation of underfloor heating devices

Despite the light weight of aluminum radiators, sometimes it is not possible to hang them on the wall. For example, on walls sheathed with plasterboard or made of lightweight concrete, it is not recommended to hang any structures without additional support. Some models of cast iron and steel heating appliances are equipped with legs, but their appearance is not always aesthetic.

Bimetallic and aluminum radiators can be installed on the floor using special brackets. They are fixed on the floor, a radiator is installed and, using a special device, the lower battery outlet is fixed on the bracket. Floor mounts can be fixed or adjustable height. On the floor, such fasteners are fixed with nails or dowels.

Tying heating devices

To resolve the issue of how to put a heating battery and connect it to the pipeline of the general system, use the following methods:

Saddle connection.
One-way connection of heating batteries.
diagonal connection.

If radiators with a bottom connection are chosen for installation, then the issue is solved simply. The manufacturer himself determines the location of the supply and return pipes and requires unquestioning implementation of the recommendations. Otherwise, the heating efficiency cannot be guaranteed.

When solving the problem of how to add a heating battery in an apartment, you should know that radiators with side connection can be installed in the above ways.

One way connection

This type of connection can be used in single-pipe or two-pipe systems. Since in most apartments the system is made of metal pipes, the piping for this option should be considered. To work, you will need the following items:

Ball valves in the amount of 2 pieces.
2 tees.
2 spurs, these parts have external threads at both ends.

The elements are connected according to a certain scheme. For a single-pipe system, a mandatory installation of a bypass jumper is required, which will allow you to shut off the coolant supply to the radiator in case of unforeseen situations. Installing a valve on the bypass is strictly prohibited, as it blocks the movement of the coolant through the riser.

If you have welding equipment and skills to work with it, the bypass jumper can be welded. A two-pipe system can be assembled without a bypass. In this case, the supply pipe is connected to the upper collector, the return pipe to the lower outlet. Cranes are installed in any case.

The tightness of the joints is achieved through the use of linen winding and sanitary paste applied over it. The amount of winding must be controlled, since its excess can lead to the formation of microcracks on the body of the connected elements, which threatens with subsequent destruction. Such care should be taken when connecting elements from all materials, except for cast iron products.

Diagonal connection

With a diagonal connection of heating devices, you can get the most efficient heat transfer. With the lower wiring, the connection process looks quite simple: the coolant is supplied to the upper entrance on one side, which exits from the other side in the lower part.

This design looks more aesthetically pleasing, which cannot be said about a single-pipe system with a vertical riser. However, knowing how to properly install a heating radiator, it is possible to achieve high heating efficiency with this option.

When deciding how to properly install heating batteries, you should know that when connecting a radiator to a single-pipe system, a bypass must be installed.

Saddle connection

This option for connecting radiators to the heating system is more suitable for lower piping or when they are hidden.

Installation on a single pipe system can be done with or without a bypass bar. In the absence of a bypass, installation of cranes is necessary. Their presence will allow you to remove the radiator in case of an accident and replace it with a drive.

The use of saddle connection of radiators for vertical wiring is considered ineffective, since heat losses in this case can reach 15%.

In our country, the average outdoor temperature during the cold season does not exceed 8°C. Consequently, all residential premises in private and multi-apartment buildings must be heated. In most regions, the heating season lasts about 150 days or more. Therefore, the heating system must be reliable and not pose a threat of a possible accident during frosts on the street.

The most important element of heat supply to the premises are heating devices, which, according to the type of material, are divided into:

steel;
cast iron;
bimetallic;
aluminum.

In addition, sometimes you can find heating convectors made of finned copper pipes, which are most often used for hidden installation in floors.

The device of bimetallic batteries

As the practice of recent years has shown, of the listed series of radiators, bimetallic models are the most efficient and reliable. They have a clear advantage over other materials, which are:

high resistance to corrosion;
a wide range of operating temperatures and pressures;
a simple possibility of changing the heat transfer of the device by changing the number of assembled sections;
low inertia during heating and cooling;
a small amount of coolant required for filling;
low weight, facilitating installation;
affordable for most people.

It should also be noted the ease of installation of bimetallic radiators. Due to the presence of standard fasteners, this process will not cause structural damage and will ensure high-quality fixation of heating equipment.

The design of bimetallic batteries consists of a set of sections. When assembled, such a package consists of two horizontal pipes connected by vertical hollow ribs through which the coolant circulates.

To increase the heat transfer of the heater, the outer surface of the fins and pipes is increased due to additional planes. The sections are connected to each other using hollow nipples with double-sided thread, provided that a sealing gasket is installed.

Core.

To protect against corrosion, the inner surface of the sections is covered with a protective layer of aluminum alloy. The outer metal surface is painted according to the technology of thermal application of powder polymer paints. This gives the products a beautiful appearance and ensures their durability.

Before you install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you need to purchase a set of 4 special plugs. Two of them have a ½ inch internal thread, the third must be without a hole, and one has an air outlet device installed. When buying a kit, you should pay attention to the direction of the thread - there should be two right and two left.

Calculation of the required number of sections

The number of sections of heating devices is determined depending on the heat loss through the building envelope. An accurate calculation can only be performed by a specialist with the appropriate education.

But enlarged normative indicators for typical buildings have long been defined, which take the necessary heat consumption from the calculation 1 kW of thermal energy per 10 m 2 of the room. This figure provides a guaranteed power reserve of the device by 10-15%.

The heat transfer of bimetallic radiator sections in Watts is indicated in the product passport, which is included in each package. Therefore, to determine the number of sections required for heating a room, it is necessary to area in m 2 multiplied by 100 and divided by the heat transfer of one section in W.

The result is rounded up to the next whole number. A rough check is made from the condition that on average one section heats 1.2-1.4 m 2. Performing calculations allows you to refuse to buy unnecessary items and save money.

Selecting a battery installation location

When installing heating systems, at the first stage, heating devices are installed, equipped with shut-off and control valves, and after that pipe laying begins. Any battery can be installed temporarily and removed from the mounts at the time of cutting the strobe or performing other work.

Therefore, it is recommended to connect bimetallic heating radiators without removing the packaging polyethylene film, or by wrapping it yourself to protect it from dust, dirt and possible damage. The film can only be removed during thermal testing of the heating system.

The basic requirements for the installation of sectional batteries are given by the manufacturer in the technical data sheet of each model. However, there are general mandatory conditions for the installation of bimetallic heating radiators:

the middle of the radiator must coincide with the center of the window under which it is installed;
the upper plane of the device must be located strictly horizontally;
all batteries in the room must be at the same height;
the distance from the back wall of the sections to the wall is not less than 30 mm and not more than 50 mm;
the distance from the floor and window sill to the heater must not be less than 100 mm.

The last condition does not define a high setting correctly. If you raise the bottom of the radiator to a height of more than 150 mm, then the possibility of insufficient heating of the lower space of the room is likely.

Self-assembly of sectional heating batteries

Before installing the radiator, the surface of the wall that will be behind it must be plastered and puttied. After that, it is recommended to stick a sheet of foil isol on it, corresponding to the dimensions of the heater.

During the finishing, the reflective surface can be wallpapered, painted or tiled - the foil will still ensure the reflection of heat towards the living space.

Necessary tools and additional materials

To perform installation work on the installation of sectional bimetallic heating radiators, it is necessary to prepare:

adjustable wrench;
perforator or impact drill;
pipe wrench Popov (ass);
building level;
tape measure and pencil;
radiator wrench with end blade 24 mm;
a set of end caps with a plug and a Mayevsky tap;

ball valve ½ inch with detachable connection, external and internal thread;
valve-regulator for thermal head;
radiator gaskets;
bouffant flax (tow);
sanitary silicone or investment paste.

Depending on the installation method, the fastening elements can be hinged or floor. In the first case, they need 4, in the second - 2.

Repacking radiator sections

Before installing the battery in place, it is necessary to assemble the device with the estimated number of sections. The factory equipment includes sets of 10 elements. Therefore, in most cases, you will have to separate or add a few pieces. This is done using a special radiator key, the length of which is at least 8 sections, and the width of the end blade is 24 mm.

Look at the direction of the thread on one of the end holes of the radiator. Insert the key inward so that the blade of the key is in the joint area between the sections to be separated. Turn the key in the opposite direction from the thread direction. The moment of separation of elements is usually accompanied by a click.

Adding the removed sections to another set is done in reverse order.

Options for connecting the heater to the distribution pipelines

After repacking, plugs, valves and a valve for air release are installed on the battery. The way how to connect a bimetallic heating radiator in an apartment is determined by the variant of the piping system, which can be:

saddle;
diagonal;
unilateral.

In the first case, shut-off valves are installed on both sides of the device, in the holes of the lower plugs, and the Mayevsky valve is installed in the upper far one along the course of the coolant. The name of the second strapping option determines the installation of fittings in the upper and lower plugs located diagonally on the radiator.

A one-way connection scheme is used for single-pipe vertical risers of multi-storey buildings. In this case, the taps are mounted at the top and bottom on one side of the battery.

Mounting a bimetallic radiator on the wall

After repacking the sections and installing shut-off and control valves, you can proceed with the installation of the heater in its intended place. In this case, the do-it-yourself procedure is as follows:

measure the distance from the lower edge of the section to the center of the upper nipple connection and add 100-120 millimeters to this value;
make a mark on the wall according to the height of the measurement made;
draw a horizontal line passing through the mark made earlier;
on this line draw the position of the middle of the window;
take a measurement between the nipples of the penultimate radiator sections along the edges, divide the result by two and set it aside along a horizontal line on both sides of the center of the battery;
measure the distance;
from the marks obtained vertically down, set aside the distance corresponding to the measurement between the centers of the section nipples (usually 500 or 300 mm);
drill 4 holes according to the marks obtained, insert plastic plugs into them and screw the hinged fasteners along the thread;
hang the radiator on the installed supports.

After that, it is necessary to measure the distance from the battery to the wall and check the horizontal position of the upper plane of the device with a level. If necessary, the fasteners should be unscrewed or screwed in, and the horizontal installation should be adjusted by bending up or down the installed supports.

Floor mounting of radiators

This type of installation of radiators is used in the absence of a solid load-bearing wall. This happens when constructing window openings to the floor level, display railings or covering the surface with plasterboard boards with a significant distance (more than 200 mm) from the main walls.

Floor mounts are a metal support structure in the form of the letter "H" with a lower transverse bar for screwing to the surface. They are made in two versions:

from a steel corner;
from bent profile pipes.

The easiest way to install a heater without fixing it to a wall is as follows:

take 2 fasteners and just put them on the bottom of the radiator;
put the device together with fasteners at the place of its installation;
ask an assistant to hold the battery and make marks on the floor through the holes in the bottom bar;
remove the fasteners, drill holes and screw the support to the floor with dowels.

It is recognized that the floor installation of radiators is less reliable than the hinged one. But there are options that this will be the only possible solution for providing space heating. An alternative can only serve as underfloor heating.

Types of heating systems

The level of heat supply directly depends on the type of heating system in an apartment or house. According to the pipe connection scheme, 3 types of systems can be distinguished: one-pipe, two-pipe system and using a collector.

Single pipe system

The single-pipe is mounted in such a way that the coolant enters through one pipe (successively) into each radiator, after which it returns cooled down to the boiler through it. Such a system is the easiest to install. Widely installed in multi-storey buildings. Its disadvantage is that each subsequent radiator receives an increasingly cool coolant, and heats up the room worse. There is also no possibility of local repair of one battery. If necessary, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

Two-pipe system

involves the flow of hot coolant to each radiator separately (parallel connection), one pipe at a time. Thus, they all warm up to the same temperature. And the cooled liquid enters a separate return pipe and moves to the boiler for reheating. In this case, the rules for installing heating radiators are simplified. Indeed, for replacement, it is possible to disconnect only one old radiator from the system.

Collector system

The collection system is very complex. It is intended for cottages. It assumes a large consumption of pipes, since separate pipes are connected to each battery. Only professionals can mount such a system.

Wiring diagrams

Before you install a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

You can ask the experts how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and, possibly, agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen will tell you which connection scheme to choose, and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

Mounting

Performed at any time of the year. It is impossible to install more than twelve sections of batteries in a system with natural circulation of liquid, and more than 24 sections with artificial. different size. The thread size of the spurs must correspond to the dimensions of the batteries and pipes.

Since additional parts are not cheap, and the cost of installing heating radiators is also not low, hiring specialists can be problematic. In addition, this work also includes the dismantling of heating radiators, the price for which, although not high, still affects the total cost. And therefore, in any case, it is better to dismantle it yourself so as not to overpay.

To do this, first the coolant is drained from one radiator, which changes if it can be localized by closing the valves at the inlet; or from the entire one-pipe system. When performing work in an apartment building, you should contact the housing office so that its employees drain the water from the riser on which the replacement is being carried out. After that, you can remove the old radiator.

To install a heating radiator yourself, you first need to install shut-off and control equipment on it.

And also to mount the Mayevsky crane, with the help of which it will subsequently be possible to release air from the batteries. Brackets are installed on the wall, after carefully marking the place for installation. It is believed that for mounting a medium-sized radiator, you will need 2-3 brackets to hold its upper part, and 2 to fix the lower one.

Fasteners are leveled, and a battery is installed on it. If the brackets are installed correctly, it should fit snugly against the supports, not wobble. A small trifle: the heating device is installed with a small slope (0.3 cm for each meter of its length) so that the Mayevsky crane is located near the highest point. The actual installation of a heating radiator, the price of which is reduced due to self-installation, begins with the fact that the plugs are unscrewed from the battery.

If, install a bypass with a valve. With a two-pipe system, only the drive on which the valve is installed is connected. Then the drives are connected to the pipes. This requires torque wrenches. They will have to be bought, which will increase the cost of installing a heating radiator, but you cannot do without them. They will allow you not to overdo it when tightening nuts and other fasteners, since the instructions for each auxiliary element indicate the permissible torque moment.

A loose connection is also dangerous due to the possibility of leaks. The joints are sealed with tow moistened with oil paint, or with a special sealant. They can also be boiled. After installation, the connections need to be crimped. It will be performed by a called plumber, since buying a crimping tool is expensive. At the end of the work, you need to make a trial run of the system, and, if necessary, immediately eliminate the imperfections.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly install heating radiators, it is worth considering whether you need to do this work yourself. If you do not have the skills to install heating appliances, it is better to hire professionals, having previously found out the prices for installing heating radiators in the locality where they will be installed.

If aluminum or are installed, leave them in the package until the installation is completed so as not to damage the surface in case of accidental impact. It is noteworthy that the installation of cast iron heating radiators also has its own characteristics. They are heavy, so they require the installation of more brackets. In addition, these details should be embedded deeper into the wall, especially if it is brick.

If the wall is made of drywall, the heavy battery is not hung on it, but mounted on special floor stands, and a pair of wall brackets is needed to prevent the structure from falling. In addition, if the device to be mounted is cast iron, then its connection to the pipes is carried out by a welding machine. That is, in this case, the installation of heating radiators by gas welding is almost always used, and this should not be neglected.

From all of the above, it follows that the installation of heating batteries can be quite simple if you initially prepare well for it and study all the instructions that come with the device. After performing all the procedures in the prescribed sequence, the heating system will be durable and will last for decades.

A variety of heating systems provide a comfortable air temperature inside residential premises. The vast majority of heating concepts are based on special heat transfer devices, commonly called batteries. You can install them yourself if you know the nuances of the work.

We have collected and systematized for you all the information about the options and methods of connection. Taking into account our recommendations, the installation of heating batteries with your own hands will be carried out without the slightest difficulty. All readers of the article presented by us will cope with it without problems.

A detailed description of connection options and technologies is supplemented with visual diagrams, photo collections, and video instructions.

To understand what battery designs are needed, initial knowledge about the modes and operating conditions of heating devices will help.

Below is a summary of information on the important parameters of heating systems when choosing batteries:

1. Internal pressure. The value required for the competent choice of a device that can withstand pressure in the heating circuit:

Private house (autonomous) = 1.5-2 atm.
Private house (centralized) = 2-4 atm.
5-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 2-4 atm.
9-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (centralized) = 7-10 atm.

If the technical capabilities of the battery are lower, there is a possibility of depressurization of the device with other negative consequences.

2. Permissible heating temperature. Characteristic indicating the upper temperature limit, above which the battery may fail:

Autonomous = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with plastic wiring = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with steel wiring = up to 95⁰С.

Operation in violation of the temperature regime leads to melting of the seals, deformation and loss of tightness of the device.

3. The degree of pollution of the coolant. A parameter that is mainly of interest to owners and water supply:

Autonomous private house = high, medium, low when installing filters.
Autonomous multi-storey building = high, medium, low when installing a filter system.
Centralized = low, in rare cases medium.

Water supplied by centralized networks to municipal heating systems undergoes complex treatment. The content of sand and clay suspension in water extracted from private wells, wells, open sources may exceed the allowable limit.

Traditional Battery Locations

For further selection of battery designs, it is required to determine the points . They are placed in places of greatest penetration of cold. This is done to minimize the effect of drafts on the microclimate of the premises. They also focus on ensuring availability for the purpose of periodic maintenance.

Batteries mounted on the bottom create a thermal curtain in rooms with panoramic windows, for example, on verandas

Battery areas:

Window niches. The most common location for heating appliances.
Extended interwindow spaces. One of the popular options.
Corners and "blind" walls of corner rooms. It is used to enhance the heating of rooms with increased heat loss due to the intense effects of winds.
Bathrooms, pantries, bathrooms, one or two sides of which are combined with a main load-bearing wall.
Unheated entrances, hallways of private houses.
Apartment corridors of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Modern designs of heating appliances fit under the balcony door or the entrance to the loggia.

An example of the location of heating radiators in one house:

Image Gallery

The most popular and rational location of the heating radiator is under the window, behind a protective decorative screen.

If the space under the window is occupied, you can hang the radiator to the adjoining wall in close proximity to the window

An ordinary heating radiator hardly fits into the bedroom interior. Way out - false cabinet or cabinet

In the bathroom, the heater performs the additional function of a heated towel rail, so it often differs in design

The traditional location of the batteries in the living room

How to place a radiator in a children's room

Mounting the battery in the cabinet

Installation of a radiator-dryer in the bathroom

Design specifics of heating devices

Structurally, batteries are divided into groups, these are radiators, convectors and registers.

Overview of popular heating appliances

The radiator is the most common type. This is a heating device consisting of vertical separate compartments-sections. In classic collapsible products, sections are independent work items. They are joined in the required quantity using threaded internal connections. This assembly scheme gives the batteries versatility.

Before installing, possibly completing a heating radiator, it is required to carry out a calculation in accordance with the required heat output. According to the calculations, the number of sections of prefabricated batteries is selected. Horizontal cavities of radiators obtained by connecting sections are called collectors. Upper and lower.

Modern technologies have mastered the manufacture of less versatile, but more reliable non-separable radiators using welding and one-piece casting methods. They do not have joints and seals, typical for collapsible radiators. Design for every taste.

A convector is a one-piece heating device made of a tubular or cavity heat exchanger with rows of heat-removing fins. Convectors are available in the following versions:

Wall.
Floor (duct)
Plinth.

The register is a non-separable heating device made of straight smooth horizontal pipes arranged and combined in a certain way.

Details about the types of radiators

Radiators differ in the material used for their manufacture.

Within the same variety, there may be different design solutions, sometimes unexpectedly original

The market for heating appliances can offer:

Cast iron radiators. Ancestors of batteries of this group. Relatively inexpensive. Maintain each of the modes of operation. They serve up to 50 years. The main disadvantage is that they are heavy, which, however, helps to retain heat for a long time when the heating is turned off.
Steel radiators. Such batteries are structures made of steel pipes. They work in any conditions, but are less durable than cast-iron counterparts. They have low heat dissipation.
Aluminum radiators. Made of lightweight aesthetic material, these batteries give off heat best of all. They are resistant to all operating temperatures, but are afraid of water hammer. Aluminum is very demanding on the quality of the coolant.
Bimetallic radiators. Steel innards clad in aluminum - that says it all. The main characteristics, like steel, heat transfer - almost like aluminum. Price - bites.
Copper radiators. These are “eternal” heat emitters for any premises. Their only and most significant disadvantage is their ultra-high cost.
plastic radiators. Innovation in the family of radiators. So far, they are suitable only for autonomous heating systems of private houses with a coolant heated to no more than 80 ° C.

The most sensitive to operating conditions. These radiators reliably serve only 15 years. Their use is possible only in autonomous heating systems.

Externally, popular models of radiators made of different materials are similar:

Image Gallery

A traditional type of radiator that faithfully served our grandparents. The old models were replaced by stylized new ones.

Steel radiators are distinguished by a long service life and resistance to the characteristics of the coolant

Light weight is a really important advantage of aluminum, especially if the heater needs to be installed on a relatively weak support.

Cast iron radiator

Steel heater

Light aluminum battery

Copper heating radiator

Characteristics of the convector variety

Convectors are significantly inferior in heat transfer to radiators, but in some cases they successfully complement or replace them:

1. Wall mounted convectors. Batteries in this design are usually made of steel, so they are cheap. They are unstable to water hammer, and their use in centralized heating systems is undesirable.

Convectors designed like panels look like closed radiators, very nice, fit perfectly into the interiors of any plan.

But made in the form of pipes bristling with plates - such batteries are suitable only for installation in utility rooms.

2. Floor convectors (channel). An excellent solution for creating a thermal curtain at the doors of a balcony or loggia. Made of durable corrosion-resistant materials, they are unpretentious to the requirements of operation.

3. Plinth convectors. Able to work in all conditions and modes, these batteries are the best suited for creating a microclimate where all other heaters will look bulky.

The plinth type is appropriate in bathrooms and storerooms adjacent to cold street walls and unheated porches.

Brief description of heating registers

Once the batteries of this group were made handicraft using conventional welding. Registers can be used in any heating systems, but due to their unsightly appearance they are used mainly in auxiliary premises: garages, storerooms, basements. Sometimes they can be seen in the entrances of old high-rise buildings.

Modern manufacturers have "laid eyes" on this group of heating devices.

Shiny chrome-plated metal registers can decorate the design renovation of any living space.

Calculation of thermal power of batteries

The stage of preliminary selection of batteries is over, you can proceed to the calculation of the thermal power required from them. The calculations are based on a relative power of 100 W for heating 1 m² of a reference room.

The full formula includes many correction factors and looks like this:

Q = (100 x S) x R x K x U x T x H x W x G x X x Y x Z,

S= area of the heated room, where:

R- additional parameter for rooms oriented to the east or north = 1.1;

K- correction for the presence of external walls in the room:

one = 1.0;
two = 1.2;
three = 1.3;
four = 1.4;

U- coefficient of insulation of street walls:

low = 1.27 (without insulation);
average = 1.0 (plaster, surface thermal insulation);
high \u003d 0.85 (insulation made according to special calculations);

T- weather indicator of the period of lowest temperatures in ⁰С:

up to -10 = 0.7;
up to -15 = 0.9;
up to -20 = 1.0;
up to -25 = 1.1;
up to -35 = 1.3;
below -35 = 1.5;

H- ceiling height index in meters:

up to 2.7 = 1.0;
up to 3 = 1.05;
up to 3.5 = 1.1;
up to 4 = 1.15;

W- characteristics of the room located on the floor above:

unheated and uninsulated = 1.0 (cold attic);
unheated, but insulated = 0.9 (attic with insulated roof);
heated = 0.8.

G– window quality level:

serial wooden frames = 1.27;
frames with double-glazed windows = 1.0;
frames with double glazing = 0.85;

X- the ratio of the area of window openings to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room:

up to 0.1 = 0.8;
up to 0.2 = 0.9;
up to 0.3 = 1.0;
up to 0.4 = 1.1;
up to 0.5 = 1.2;

Y- the value of the openness of the surface of the batteries:

fully open = 0.9;
covered with a window sill = 1.0;
obscured by the horizontal protrusion of the wall = 1.07;
covered with a window sill and a front casing = 1.12;
blocked from all sides = 1.2;

Z– battery connection efficiency (1.0 ÷ 1.13; see the section below for details).

The calculated value must be multiplied by a conditional coefficient of 1.15. It will provide some heat reserve for the possibility of more precise adjustment of devices for operation in low-temperature mode.

Efficient ways to connect

Before continuing to learn how to properly select, install and connect radiators and other heating devices, it is necessary to consider the two main types of piping of existing heating systems. They differ in the principles of organizing the supply of coolant to the batteries and returning it to the system.

In practice, the pipe supplying heat is referred to as the "supply". The pipe that returns the coolant is the "return". The vertical distribution pipe (supply or return) is called the "riser".

In single-pipe heating systems, the coolant is supplied unevenly. It will enter the devices farthest from the boiler, having already cooled down somewhat. Therefore, single-pipe circuits have length restrictions

Traditional wiring options:

Single pipe. The wiring is arranged in such a way that one pipe plays the role of supply and return. Batteries "crash" into it sequentially. The coolant bypasses the heating devices in the order of their connection.
Two-pipe. In a two-pipe wiring, one pipe is the supply, the other is the return. With this option, battery heaters are connected simultaneously to both pipes, parallel to each other. The coolant circulates through all batteries simultaneously.

Coefficient "Z" in the formula for calculating heat output depends on the connection options for heating devices.

The most widely used connection methods in practice:

Method number 1. Diagonally. Z = 1.0.

This connection order is the most effective, especially if the heating system is not working well. The coolant enters the battery from one side from the top, passes through the entire internal cavity and exits from the bottom on the other side.

Thermal energy is transferred to the entire surface of the heater. For radiators longer than 12 sections, this method is highly recommended.

Method number 2. On the side (top - entrance, bottom - exit). Z = 1.03.

Until recently - the most common method of connecting batteries. It is convenient during installation due to the short length of the connections.

For radiators up to 12 sections, it is almost as good as a diagonal connection method in terms of heat transfer. But this is in well-functioning heating systems. If the systems operate sluggishly, the hot coolant will not reach the final radiator compartments.

Method number 3. Bottom on both sides. Z = 1.13.

Despite the least efficiency, this connection method quickly took root in new construction, thanks to plastic pipes. The wiring of heating systems are mounted in the floor, and do not overshadow the design of the premises. With properly configured heating systems, all parts of the batteries receive uniform heating.

The final stage of battery selection

The final selection stage is based on the obtained results of the required power from the heating devices.
Ready-made one-piece designs of radiators, convectors or registers are selected at the time of purchase.

From the factory passports of products, data on their thermal power are visible. When purchasing batteries, the features of the installation sites (for example, the possible dimensions of the device) are taken into account.

Non-separable radiators and registers with individual parameters are manufactured by specialized organizations to order. Collapsible radiators should be looked at by the number of sections, based on their total thermal power.

Approximate individual power of standard 500 mm sections from different materials (Watt with a coolant of 70⁰С):

Cast iron = 160;
Steel tubular = 85;
Aluminum = 200;
Bimetallic = 180.

The power of collapsible radiators is regulated by attaching additional or disconnecting excess sections.
When choosing batteries of various designs for one room, it is more correct to start their selection with non-separable products.

It is also proposed to install a heat-reflecting screen between the battery and the outer wall. For its manufacture, you can pay attention to modern heat-reflecting materials isospan, penofol, alufom.

An air vent is a small device that is built into the part of the battery where air can accumulate. For collapsible radiators, this is a threaded hole in the end of the upper manifold, opposite to the supply pipe

When fixing heating devices in place, their deviation from the horizontal level is not allowed. It is allowed to raise the side with an air vent up to 1 cm for better collection and release of air.

When connecting heaters to systems with risers, the centers of the battery inlets must not be higher than the centers of the outlets from the supply pipes. If, when connecting to risers, it is supposed to equip thermal units with taps or temperature control devices, in single-pipe heating systems it is additionally necessary if they are not available.

The bypass is a jumper in parallel with the battery connection. This element allows you to organize the control of the heater. It is a piece of pipe connecting the inlet and outlet of the battery. The diameter of the jumper pipe must be one standard size smaller than that of the riser pipe. In two-pipe heating systems, the installation of bypasses is not required.

Due to the widely differing coefficients of expansion of materials, it is not recommended to connect batteries with plastic piping to steel pipe wiring. Conversely, the main plastic wiring eliminates the transition to steel connection parts.

Until the installation is completed, it is advisable not to remove the packaging shell from steel, aluminum and bimetallic batteries in order to avoid mechanical damage.

Preparing collapsible radiators for installation

If the purchased collapsible batteries do not have the calculated parameters, they should be modified by disconnecting the extra sections or adding to the desired amount. Between themselves, the radiator compartments are pulled together with the help of plumbing nipples through round sealing gaskets.

Nipple - a short thick-walled tube with an external thread. Half right, half left. Inside the tube, along the entire length, there are two opposite longitudinal technological protrusions.

The radiator wrench can be replaced with a chisel of a suitable length, with a sting width sufficient to securely hook the protrusions of the nipple. The role of the wrench will be played by an adjustable pipe wrench.
The design of the collapsible radiator has a left-hand thread.

For the correct perception of the direction of rotation, it is recommended to unscrew or tighten the nipples by inserting a key or a chisel into the holes of the sections where the thread is right-handed. To avoid distortion of parts, the holes must be alternated through a turn or two of the tool.

Fixing collapsible radiators in place

Collapsible radiators are hung on special brackets. The most reliable are arc-shaped hooks built into the main walls of the premises. In this case, the following distances must be provided:

From the floor = 6-12 cm, sufficient for cleaning and heating the bottom of the wall,
at least 7 cm to the window sill to ensure effective convection,
from the heat-reflecting screen or from the wall = 3-5 cm.

Brackets are mounted in such a way as to fall into the intersection space of radiators. According to an unwritten rule, when hanging batteries, end caps with a right-hand thread should be on the right, with a left-hand thread - on the left.

Hook markings are done in the following order:

A vertical line of the axial center of the radiator is drawn (when installing the battery under the window, most often this is also its center) with a length not less than the height of the battery.
The distance between the gaps of the first-second section of the radiator and the last-penultimate one is measured.
A horizontal line is drawn corresponding to the center of the upper radiator manifold, with a length of at least the measured distance (taking into account the general advice above).
The distance itself is plotted right-left on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically with respect to the axial center line. The resulting two points are the places for the upper hooks. They will support the weight of the structure.
From the point of intersection of the horizontal lines and the axial center, a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the collectors is laid vertically downwards (standard is 500 mm).
A horizontal line is drawn through the intended point, corresponding to the center of the lower radiator manifold.
The distance measured in paragraph 2 is plotted to the right and left on the drawn horizontal line symmetrically with respect to the axial center line. The resulting two points are places for the lower hooks. They will ensure the immobility of the structure.
At the marked points, holes are drilled for dowels, into which threaded brackets are wrapped or hooks with smooth rods are hammered.

The drilling process is described for cast iron and bimetal radiators with no more than 10 sections, and aluminum radiators with no more than 12 sections. For larger batteries in the center area, a hook should be added at the top and bottom.

Fixing in place non-collapsible views

Brackets for installing non-separable radiators are usually included in the product kit. The sequence of marking the mounting points of the brackets for hanging these batteries is described in the attached mounting diagram. The procedure resembles that painted for collapsible radiators.

The choice of brackets for fixing convectors is varied. It is due to the location of the heater.

Brackets convectors are held on the walls, fixed on the floor, suspended from below to the window sills

By analogy with collapsible radiators, they are hung on arcuate hooks fixed to the walls. The total number of brackets is standardly four (two - hold the top tube, two - the bottom). For light registers, it is possible to use holders for pipes of the appropriate diameter with clamps.

Connecting batteries to heating systems

In connection work, it is advisable to use a torque tool. The necessary tightening forces are specified in the passports of the purchased heaters. To create tightness of threaded connections, you will need a fluoroplastic sealing material, briefly called "FUM tape", and sanitary flax.

If the connections of the batteries with the wiring of the heating system are carried out with a plastic eyeliner, you will additionally need:

Welding machine for polypropylene parts.
Or a crimping tool for metal-plastic pipes.

When deciding to control the heating of the batteries, taps or thermostatic devices are purchased. Some ready-made designs are immediately equipped with built-in thermostats.

The required number of pipes for the supply, the complete set of connecting parts (fittings) depend on the options for connecting to the heating system and are found out after the batteries are fixed in place. Connection methods "diagonally", "on the side" or "bottom on both sides" are determined at the stage of calculating the thermal power of the installed

The procedure for mounting the radiator to the wall
List of tools and materials needed to install the radiator mount
Features of mounting the radiator: instructions

When building a heating system with your own hands, it is very important to correctly install the batteries. The rules for attaching radiators to the wall differ depending on the material from which the battery was made.

Mounting the radiator is a simple process, the main thing during installation is to observe the horizontal and vertical mounting.

Mounting aluminum radiators

Aluminum batteries are considered one of the most efficient and versatile heating devices. They have a relatively low price and a high degree of heat transfer. If the installation of the radiator has been done correctly, this type of radiator will serve you well for many years.

Radiator mounting diagram.

Aluminum batteries should be used in two- and one-pipe heating systems, involving the construction of a horizontal and vertical pipeline to connect heaters. Such batteries can be used for systems with natural and forced circulation.

Often, batteries are installed directly under the window or with the help of special racks near the window near the wall. Connect batteries from one side or from different sides.

If the pipe connection is one-sided, you should not use a large number of sections in the heating system.

The degree of heat transfer of the batteries depends on how correctly the fastening was performed. So, installation should be carried out in accordance with certain parameters - a distance of about 10-12 cm must be maintained to the floor, a distance of about 2-5 cm from the battery to the wall (heat loss increases with decreasing distance). To the window sill from the battery should be at least 10 cm.

In order to be able to control the level of heat in the room, it is necessary to install control valves at the outlet and at the inlet to the battery, with automatic or manual control modes.

It should be borne in mind that the installation of aluminum radiators can only be carried out by a special worker who has the appropriate license. According to the instructions, before carrying out work on the installation of radiators, you should thoroughly flush the heating system. Under no circumstances should alkaline solutions be used for flushing. Any radiator must be equipped with special valves designed to release air.

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Scheme of mounting dimensions of radiators.

The battery must first be assembled (it should not be completely removed from the original packaging). To do this, it is necessary to screw the radiator plugs into the plug using gaskets.

After that, shut-off valves and the Mayevsky valve are installed. On the radiator, you need to outline those areas where the brackets will be installed. Next, the brackets are fixed on the wall with dowels so that their hooks are located exactly between the battery sections.

Now you need to set the degree of horizontalness of the heater using a horizontal building level. If necessary, adjust the level of the radiator using brackets.

In accordance with the diagram, you need to connect the batteries to the heating system. If the radiator is installed at a level of less than 7 cm from the floor, heat transfer will be significantly reduced and it may be difficult to clean the room.

When the heating system is filled with a coolant, the shut-off and control valves should be opened smoothly and carefully to prevent the occurrence of water hammer. After installing the radiator, you need to draw up an act of putting it into operation.

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Scheme of installation of a heating radiator.

In order to mount the battery to the wall, you must use the following parts and tools:

dowels;
brackets;
Mayevsky's crane;
traffic jams;
plug;
horizontal level;
perforator.

For concrete or brick walls, brackets can be used, as the strength of the walls will allow them to be drilled to fasten the dowels.

Some of the plugs supplied with the radiator are through passage - they allow installation of return and supply pipes to them. So, one of these plugs must be drowned out, and the Mayevsky crane should be installed in the second.

To fasten steel or bimetallic pipes of a single-pipe heating system, use tees ranging in size from 25 to 32 millimeters.

Each of the radiators must be equipped with two tees. In order to qualitatively attach the radiator to the wall, radiator taps should also be used. Use of polypropylene or steel cranes is allowed. Material for taps must be selected depending on the coolant. There should be two taps per device.

In order to hang the battery on a wall made of chipboard or drywall, you should use special brackets.

https://youtu.be/s0y73jaY3Ow

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First, you should mark on the wall the place where the radiators will be hung. So, initially with a pencil, a place is planned for the brackets. In the future, when mounting steel radiators, it should be taken into account that the brackets must be located at the joints between the radiator sections.

After the markings on the wall have been applied, holes of the appropriate diameter should be drilled in the wall. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the dowel supplied with the radiator. After that, a dowel should be inserted into the hole, into which the bracket will later be screwed.

Scheme of the dependence of the radiator power on the installation method.

The installation of bimetallic radiators must be carried out in accordance with certain requirements. The threaded part should be unscrewed from the tap and wound onto the freed thread. In this case, the winding can be a special paste that is resistant to high temperatures. Such a paste can provide high-quality tightness of threaded connections. Together with the paste, it is allowed to use tow with paint or fum tape.

When using tow, paint should be applied to the threaded section of the part and smeared evenly over the entire thread area. In the course of the thread, the tow itself should be wound.

On the part with tow, the installation of a union nut from the crane follows, which will then need to be screwed into the battery plug. The nut must be tightened tightly with a wrench. Similarly, the Mayevsky key and the stub are installed.

At the location of the radiator plugs, you can use standard or special gaskets instead of winding, but in this case, the degree of tightness of steel heaters will be lower.

The battery cells should be installed taking into account the fact that half of the plugs are equipped with a right-hand thread, and the other half with a left-hand thread.

The union nut located in the radiator valve does not require additional winding, as it is equipped with a special ring seal. This seal is able to be bevelled and form a tight joint.

After the plugs are screwed in, the radiator valves should be installed. After the first part of the work - the installation of steel radiators is completed, you should proceed to the final part of the work. Branch pipes should be soldered to the tee on one side and to the radiator tap on the other.

During the installation of the layers, it is necessary to pay special attention to their length - it is necessary that a certain section of this tube goes into the inner diameter of the part with which the connection is made. When soldering branch pipes, it is necessary to observe the coincidence of the direction of the tee and the radiator valve; for this, you can first make marks with a pencil. It is advisable to carry out marking work on a flat, flat surface.

After the installation of radiator valves is completed, experts hang the batteries on the brackets and check their horizontal position using a level.

https://youtu.be/RqBdKdukRfY

Similarly to one, all other radiators in the heating system are installed. After the installation is completed, the radiators should be connected to each other using pipelines and, as a result, to the boiler.

1poteply.ru

Calculations for fixing heating radiators to the wall, selection and installation

Installation of heating is a serious stage in preparing the house for operation. Fixing heating radiators to the wall is not the only, but quite a big difficulty in this process. In order to do everything right and get a good result of your work, you need to understand what mounting options exist, the types of batteries, the subtleties of work.

The first question is still to consider the types of batteries that you can use both in a country house and in an apartment.

Types of radiators for heating systems

An important factor when choosing a battery is the price-quality ratio. In this market segment, the heat transfer coefficient is considered to be an indicator of quality. But each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. To make the final choice, you should familiarize yourself with all the parameters of the main types of radiators.

Cast iron batteries

The advantages of this type are:

Cast iron batteries have very thick walls, which adds to their durability.
Cast iron is resistant to corrosion formations.
Such radiators give off heat for a long time even after you have turned off the heating system.
Compared to other types, cast iron batteries have the longest lifespan.

disadvantages

Mounting cast iron radiators to the wall is difficult due to their heavy weight. When installing them, it is imperative to use supporting stands.
The disadvantages also include their unattractive appearance and massiveness.

Steel radiators

Producers and consumers consider the advantages of this type:

Light weight, which facilitates the installation process.
High heating rate of the system, and as a result, rapid heat transfer.

The cons are:

Low heating temperature and rapid cooling of the system.
Short service life.
The operating pressure of such batteries must not exceed 10 bar.
Low resistance to hydro and pneumatic shocks.

Aluminum radiators

The advantages of this type:

The negative properties of this type of battery are poor resistance to corrosion and the rapid destruction of the junction with another type of metal.

Bimetal radiators

This is the most versatile look, combining the charms of steel and aluminum batteries. Mounting bimetallic radiators to the wall is also simple, and the steel inside the battery prevents corrosion and increases the operating pressure to optimal levels. Often, professionals recommend opting for this option.

Stages of work

If you decide to do the work of installing the batteries yourself, you need to know what steps this process involves.

The instruction for carrying out such work divides it into:

Preparation of materials and equipment.
Location calculation.
Installation of brackets.
Production of actual installation.
Soldering or sealing the joint.
System check.

Preparatory stage

This stage applies to all types of construction work. First of all, pay attention to what type of systems your heating system belongs to. They are single-pipe and two-pipe. If you are the owner of a single-pipe heating system, you will need to additionally purchase a bypass, which will allow you, if necessary, to turn off any part of the system without resorting to its complete shutdown.

These operations are not recommended to be performed in winter, especially during severe frosts - this is unsafe. Even if you decide to do all the work yourself, you still have to call a plumber from the ZhEK to disconnect your apartment from the common riser. In preparation for installing the system, you need to purchase or find the following tools and additional materials, such as:

Keys.
Tow.
Valves.
Drives.
Couplings.
Adapters.
Brackets.
Bushings.
Nipples.
corners.

If you nevertheless chose, for example, cast-iron batteries, you will probably have to buy Mayevsky cranes and install them yourself. In bimetal and aluminum sections they are already built in. This device allows you to bleed excess air from the system and maintain its functionality, preventing airing.

How to properly install

Installation of the battery, including the bimetallic type, has a number of rules. You must determine for yourself the parameters that you must adhere to.

You must know that the battery is attached taking into account the distance from all surfaces and planes next to which it is located. To ensure the necessary air flow to the system, you must leave a gap of at least 10 centimeters from the floor. In order for the air to evenly spread throughout the room from the windowsill to the radiator, it is also necessary to leave a space of 10-15 centimeters. The distance from the wall to the radiator should not be less than 3 centimeters.

So, you already understood how to fix the heating radiator correctly and place it in the appropriate niche, but in addition to the indents, you also need to know other nuances. You must observe the correct angle of inclination, calculate the required number of sections, brackets. Very often people come to the store and do not know certain parameters, without which the choice of quantity does not make sense and is made at random. We do not welcome such experiments, since you can buy fewer materials, which will lead to the fact that the system will not cope with the heating of the room and you will be cold. The next part of the article is devoted to the issues of correct calculation.

Heating installation

Everyone represents how to fix the battery to the wall “superficially”, but you can only make the correct calculation if you have accurate information.

The first nuance is the cubic capacity of your room. Here, not only the area is important, but also the height of the ceilings. Carefully study your premises and only then, with the help of a consultant in the store, select the required number of sections.

The number of brackets can be minimally limited to a pair, this is if the area is about 1 square meter. For each next square, one more bracket is added. In order not to make the fastening system too weak, the number of brackets is always calculated taking into account a margin of one piece.

So, all calculations are made. The preparation is over, we proceed to the actual installation. You need to measure everything carefully, double-checking all the marks several times with the help of a level and a ruler. If you are sure, then drill. After the holes are made, special dowels are inserted into them and fasteners are screwed in. It's time to sample. Hang the battery and take a good look at how you did it. If you did everything right, then as a result you will see a well “shrunken” radiator, densely and evenly distributing the weight on the mounts. Try to move the resulting design. If the battery is firmly fixed, you can proceed with the connections.

The tightness of the joints is the main thing you need to achieve. Since any leakage leads to malfunction or deviations in the operation of the entire system. In order to avoid this, you should use sealants, which are suitable for tow, silicone or sealant, sealing tapes. The system should not work when connected! If you have valves that you can dehydrate and turn off part of the system, be sure to do so!

Let's start assembling the connections. We screw in all the necessary parts of the dock, carefully sealing. If your battery has a protective film, it should be removed only after all connections have been crimped. For insurance at this stage of work, you can ask for the presence of a plumber, this will facilitate your work and give you confidence in the correct implementation and implementation. If you make any mistakes in the process, an experienced craftsman will immediately help you eliminate them, which will save both time and money for rework in the event of an unsuccessful installation process.

As for cast iron systems, everything is a little more complicated here. You must completely unwind it before installation (this is done mainly on a workbench and not alone), check, blow through, adjust, and then assemble it back in a strict sequence, the reverse of the promotion process. Before choosing cast iron batteries, think carefully, because due to the heavy weight of the structure and the complexity of the assembly and disassembly process, not everyone dares to use this type of battery.

If you doubt whether the walls of your house or apartment will be able to withstand the mass that “hangs” on them, but you have already made a purchase and, as they say, cannot be exchanged, purchase stands that will help distribute the weight of the battery and remove some of the load off the wall. When using them, the dimensions of the distance from the floor to the battery must be such that the stands will fully fulfill their function, you should pay attention to this.

As you saw, fixing heating radiators to a wall is a process that is not only technically complicated, everything is important here - the material of the walls, the type of batteries chosen, taking into account distances and angles of inclination, but still these difficulties are not so terrible if you carefully plan everything and enlist the support of reliable assistants!

remvizor.ru

Reliability of fastening of heating pipes and radiator batteries is the key to the trouble-free functioning of the system as a whole

In the process of installing the components of the heating system in your home, you need to pay attention to such points as fixing radiators to the wall. Equally important is the reliability of the fastening of the heating pipes and the expansion tank.

Why the mount must be secure

Cast iron heating radiators must be fixed more securely, since they are heavier

The calmness and well-being of not only the inhabitants of this dwelling, but, often, neighbors will depend on how correctly the fastening technology for radiators is applied and the installation is carried out.

Causes of problems with insufficiently reliable fastening:

distortions of radiators when filling the system with water;
accidental mechanical damage during operation;
natural shrinkage of house structures (especially wooden ones);
the impact of natural factors (earthquakes, landslides).

As a result, if heating radiators, pipes and other elements of the heating system are not properly fixed, they may deform, depressurize the joints, and then leaks will appear.

Let us consider in more detail how to make wall and floor mounting of heating radiators, as well as fastening heating pipes to the wall.

How to fix radiators

Various types of brackets for fixing heating radiators to the wall

The most suitable mounting method for heating batteries (radiators) is chosen according to their size and weight, as well as the place where they are supposed to be installed. Most often, the radiator is attached to the wall under the window, but sometimes it becomes necessary to attach it to the floor. Depending on this, the required type of fastener is used - for wall or floor installation.

Immediately before installing the radiator, it is advisable to fully prepare it: if necessary, paint it, install a Mayevsky faucet, a thermostat and a plug.

Fixing the radiator to the wall

Mounting heating radiators to the wall directly below the window is considered more practical. This ensures the creation of a thermal curtain that prevents the direct passage of cold air into the room.

To perform battery installation work, you will need:

several brackets (their number depends on the length of the battery), and the same number of dowels for them;
perforator with a drill corresponding to the material of the wall;
spirit level, tape measure, meter ruler.

Brackets for heating radiators must correspond to the type of metal from which the heating equipment is made - cast iron, steel or aluminum.

Cast iron batteries among all types of heating appliances are the heaviest. Therefore, during their installation, fasteners for cast-iron heating radiators are used, which have sufficient strength to withstand such a large weight. In addition, brackets for cast iron radiators allow you to adjust the distance to the wall.

Fasteners for bimetallic radiators must be no less durable than for cast iron ones. Although batteries of this type are not too heavy in themselves, with a large number of sections they can create a serious load on the wall.

Mounting aluminum batteries is much easier because they are lighter. For their installation, brackets are used for mounting aluminum heating radiators, which have a fixed length.

height above the floor - 100-120 mm;
height under the edge of the window sill -80-100 mm;
distance from the wall - 20-50 mm.

Bracket for mounting an aluminum heating radiator

In addition, if the piping scheme involves the supply of coolant from above, then it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the radiator so that air bubbles do not accumulate in it.

The number of support points is determined depending on the type of battery and its size. For example, for a cast iron radiator, the number of sections of which does not exceed six, it is enough to install two fasteners for cast iron heating radiators on top and one more bracket on the bottom in the wall. For larger batteries, you will have to increase the number of brackets - one for every three sections.

The number of brackets for mounting aluminum heating radiators must also correspond to the number of sections: 3 brackets if the number of sections is less than eight and 4–5 brackets with more sections.

When fixing heating radiators to the wall, it is also necessary to take into account the properties of the material from which the walls are made.

The procedure for installing and fixing the radiator battery:

The wall is pre-plastered and, if necessary, covered with wallpaper;
Mark places on the wall for brackets so that their hooks correspond to the gaps between the sections of the radiator;
Holes are drilled in the marked places, dowels are inserted into them, and then the brackets are screwed in;
Check that all bracket hooks are in line;
Hang the radiator on the brackets and lightly press it to check if it sits correctly and if there is any play;
Check the horizontal level, and in case of skew, raise one side of the radiator by placing gaskets of appropriate thickness at the points of contact with the brackets;
After the final alignment of the radiator, pipes are connected to it and the joints are sealed.

Floor mounting of radiators

The fixing of the heating radiator to the floor may be due to the structural features of the room: too large windows force the radiators to be placed on legs or on a special floor pedestal. When installing radiators on the floor, preference is given to aluminum products, as the lightest and most aesthetically attractive.

The process of attaching heating radiators to the floor is not much different from the wall version. For this you need:

purchase appropriate brackets for attaching aluminum heating radiators to the floor surface;
mark on the floor a place for each bracket;
drill holes and mount fasteners for the heating battery;
install the radiator and connect the pipes to it.

During the construction of a new house, it is advisable to install embedded elements for fixing radiator heating batteries even in the process of floor screeding. This is especially true when self-leveling floors are arranged in the premises.

How to fix pipelines

Clips for fastening heating pipes to the wall

The methods of fastening heating pipes to the wall may vary, if we take into account what material they are made of. For example, fastening a metal heating pipe requires less special fasteners, since such a pipe itself has sufficient rigidity.

Compared to metal pipes, plastic pipes are more flexible. This is especially evident under the influence of a hot coolant, and in horizontal sections the plastic heating pipe may sag. Minor changes in the geometry of the pipelines do not greatly affect the stability of the circulation of the coolant, however, they can cause air locks in the system.

To fasten plastic heating pipes to the wall, special clamps (clips) are used. Such a clamp is first fixed in the wall, and then a pipe is inserted into it. Supports for fasteners should be evenly spaced at all pipe connections and on long bends, while the length of the gaps between the supports should not exceed 10 pipe diameters. If, according to the installation scheme, it is necessary to indent from the wall, then the same fasteners are used as for radiators - brackets of the appropriate length.

When the mounts are installed on the wall, you can begin to mount the pipe on their base. Depending on the design of the clamps, the pipe is either snapped into them or screwed with studs. It is useful if the clamps are equipped with rubber gaskets in order to compensate for thermal expansion and reduce vibrations.

Sometimes a design project involves laying heating pipelines in strobes - hollowed out recesses in the wall. With a hidden gasket, you need to wrap the pipe with soft insulating material, or put a plastic corrugation on it. This is necessary in order to reduce heat loss, as well as to leave free space for thermal expansion. Subsequently, the wall can be plastered by sealing the gaps with insulating materials.

In places where the heating pipe passes through walls and ceilings, it is necessary to install in them passage elements in the form of a sleeve with a diameter several millimeters larger than the pipe section.

How to fix an expansion tank

Example of mounting an expansion tank on a return pipe

The installation location and method of fixing the expansion tank depends on the type of heating system, which can be open or closed. Although at present, open-type heating systems have ceased to be used almost everywhere, they still remain in some places in the buildings of the old construction.

In outdated systems, the fastening of an open heating expansion tank was carried out in the attic. From the highest point of the pipeline system, a pipe was taken out through the ceiling and connected to the bottom of the tank. The expansion tank was installed vertically and attached to the ceiling in any way possible.

In a closed heating system, the fastening of the membrane expansion tank is done differently. The main rule here is that during installation it is necessary to orient the tank in such a way that the coolant enters it from above. But in practice, depending on the volume of the tank and its design features, the mounting methods can be different: vertically or horizontally, directly on the heating pipe, on the wall or on the floor.

It is most advisable to install an expansion tank in front of the circulation pump, on a straight section of the pipeline from the side of the coolant return to the boiler.

Features of fixing heating in a wooden house

When attaching a radiator to a wooden wall, the possibility of shrinkage must be taken into account.

If the house is built of wood, it must be taken into account that all its structures will inevitably shrink in the first years of operation. Therefore, the fastening of heating pipes to a wooden wall should be looser than in other houses. It is unacceptable that dynamic stresses occur on any of the sections of the pipeline. When laying pipes, gaps of 15–20 mm are left in wooden walls and ceilings to compensate for shrinkage. To fix the pipes on the wall, clamps are installed. Similarly, they also do the fastening of heating expansion tanks.

In a wooden house, aluminum radiators are attached to the wall using a technology that is not too different from the usual one. An aluminum radiator is light enough that a wooden wall can easily support its weight. Unlike aluminum, a cast-iron radiator needs to be mounted on a wooden wall more carefully, and for reliability it is worth increasing the number of mounting brackets.

When a massive cast iron radiator is attached to a wooden wall, it should be mounted on floor stands that will take on the main weight of the device.

If the construction project plans to mount heating radiators to a wooden floor, the installation process will be even simpler than in the case of a concrete floor. But when there is a suspicion that a heavy radiator installed on the floor will exert an excessive load on the logs, you should try to partially redistribute its weight to the wall brackets.

Video instruction will help you understand how to fix heating radiators:

In order for the heating system not to cause problems during its operation, due attention should be paid to the issue of fixing pipes and radiators. Then it will be possible to gain complete confidence that the heating equipment will not let you down at a crucial moment.

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How to fix the radiator to the wall - installation procedure

When arranging a heating system, it is extremely important to properly install heating radiators. The process of their fastening to the wall largely depends on the material from which the supporting structures are made. Below we will take a closer look at several ways to fix a heating radiator on a wall.

Battery mounting

General information

The quality of the installation of batteries depends not only on their aesthetics, but also on the degree of heat transfer. Therefore, the installation must be carried out taking into account the requirements of SNiP:

Of course, the batteries must be fixed firmly and securely, since the durability of the device and the heat pipe depends on this.

Drawing markings for mounting batteries

Mounting

Training

Before mounting the heating radiator to the wall, it is necessary to perform some preparatory work:

First of all, you need to prepare a project for the heating system. On the diagram, it is necessary to indicate not only the location of the devices, but also the heat pipe, as well as all other elements of the system.
Then you need to mark up the areas where the devices will be located.
Next, the preparation of the devices themselves is carried out - they need to be removed from the package, screwed in the plugs, and the Mayevsky crane.

This completes the preparatory work.

Cast iron battery

Installation of cast iron batteries

First of all, let's look at how cast-iron radiators are fixed to the wall, since they remain one of the most common to this day.

So, this process is performed in the following sequence:

Mounting cast-iron heating radiators to the wall is complicated by their large weight. Therefore, for them it is necessary to use special reinforced fasteners.

Installation work begins with marking under the fasteners. In this case, their position must be checked with a level.

Then you need to drill holes for fasteners, for this you can use a puncher.

Then, dowels should be hammered into the holes and the brackets on which the device is suspended should be screwed into them.

Bracket mounting

After installing the battery, check its position with a building level. If there is a deviation, the position should be corrected. To do this, a rubber gasket can be laid on the bracket.

In the photo - checking the position of the brackets

After that, you just need to connect the device to the heat pipe. Below we will take a closer look at how this is done.

Note! For devices up to one square meter in size, one bracket is sufficient. If the size is larger, then one bracket is added to each square meter.

This completes the installation process. If it is necessary to fasten heating radiators to an aerated concrete wall, you should not use hooks, but special mounting strips.

Mounting straps

Moreover, for their fastening, special dowels for aerated concrete should be used. At least three such strips should be installed per square meter.

Stands for floor mounting

Another option for mounting cast iron batteries is to install them on the floor using special legs. As a rule, the legs are fixed with screws or dowels to the floor and at the same time hold the battery with special adjustable brackets or chains. It should be noted that this method of installation looks original and attractive, especially in classic interiors.

Note! Often, installation work is carried out by companies that sell heating appliances. However, in this case, their price of the latter increases significantly. Therefore, it is better to do the work yourself.

Bimetal radiators

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries

Now let's look at how aluminum radiators are attached to the wall, as well as bimetallic batteries. This process is not much different from fixing cast iron appliances, however, special brackets are used for these purposes.

The process is carried out in this order:

Before fixing the bimetallic radiator to the wall, you should attach the brackets and mark the locations of the dowels.
Next, holes are made for the dowel-nails, after which the dowels themselves are hammered.
Then the brackets are applied and the dowel-nails are hammered into the dowels. Each bracket for attaching the radiator to the wall must be firmly fixed. As in the previous case, the position of the brackets must be checked with a building level.

Bracket for bimetal heating devices

Then the bimetallic radiators are directly attached to the wall, which are hung on the installed brackets.

Note! The polyethylene film in which the products are supplied should not be removed until the end of the installation work.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how the radiator is fixed to the wall. I must say that bimetallic and aluminum panels can also be installed on the floor using special racks.

The latter are of several types, some of them are attached to the floor, and some are fixed to the wall, but the main load still falls on the floor. This method of fastening is an excellent solution if the walls are made, for example, of drywall.

Advice! Before mounting the device on the wall, it is desirable to fix penofol (foamed polyethylene, covered on one side with foil). The material should be placed with foil to the room. This will allow you to increase heat transfer, as heat will be reflected.

Connecting radiators

Connection Features

After installing the devices, you need to connect them to the heat pipe.

A brief instruction for performing this procedure looks like this:

Adapters for certain types of pipeline are screwed into the inlet and outlet. In some cases, a thermal control valve is connected directly to the inlet.

At this stage, it is important to ensure the tightness of the threaded connections. For sealing, you can use flax with a heat-resistant sealant or fum-tape.

Next, the adapter or thermal valve is connected to the pipeline, as a rule, by a threaded connection.
Between the incoming and outgoing demand, it is desirable to perform a jumper (bypass).
After connecting the batteries with your own hands, you should fill them with coolant and turn on the system. The taps must be opened smoothly so that there is no water hammer and clogging of the internal section.
In the process of filling the instrument system, it is necessary to release air through Mayevsky's taps.
Then you need to turn on the heating. When testing the system, it is advisable to turn on the heating to the maximum temperature and at the same time carefully inspect all connections. In case of detecting drops of coolant, it is necessary to turn off the system, drain the water and seal the connection.

Note! During the connection process, it is impossible to clean the adjacent surfaces with abrasive materials, as this will lead to leakage of the connections.

This completes the battery connection process.

Output

Fixing heating radiators to the wall is not difficult - for this you need to install brackets at the same level, in accordance with the requirements of SNiP. If the battery cannot be mounted on the wall, floor stands can be used. Particular attention must be paid to the connection of heating devices.

You can find additional useful information on the designated topic from the video in this article.

Page 2

The heating period is a real test drive not only for public utilities, but also for owners of autonomous heating systems, and just residents of apartments. As practice shows, a cold radiator is not forever, the problem is solvable, albeit unpleasant. In order to understand the cause of the phenomenon and possible solutions, let's turn to physics.

A photo that practically visualized the problem.

back to school

You can't live like this all winter.

A little recalling the laws of thermodynamics, imagine the movement of hot water or coolant in a closed system:

Water, heated in the boiler, with the help of a pump accelerates through the system and enters the radiators;

For reference! We will not now go into the complexities of the expansion systems that stabilize the pressure and allow this circulation to take place. Let's just remember that getting into the batteries, which have a much larger area compared to pipes, the water begins to give off heat and cool.

After passing the radiator, the water gives off heat to the metal, which in turn heats the air in the room;
Going down, the liquid leaves on the way back to the boiler, where it is again heated. Everything. The cycle is closed.

This is how, in a primitive presentation, the movement of the coolant in the system occurs.

Any problems?

Yes, there are problems, and they can be of two types:

Radiators are completely cold;
The top of the radiator is hot - the bottom is cold;

For your information! Practice shows that the causes of both problems are absolutely identical, so we will consider their nature and solutions in a single context.

From this image it is clear that the bottom of the battery is cold!

And before moving on to solving the issue, let's recall one more feature of the state when the bottom of the radiator is cold - and the top is hot - natural. The heating of the top and the relatively cold bottom are natural processes, in poorly heated rooms, this difference is especially noticeable. But as you noticed, the word used was comparatively cold, not icy.

Every event has a reason

And if so, then covering the problem of why the radiator is hot on top and cold on the bottom, we immediately indicate that there are four possible reasons:

The first reason is the initially incorrect connection of the radiator;
The second is air congestion;
Third - incomplete opening of shut-off valves, or valves with a reduced cross section of the passage were used during installation;
Fourth - the presence of dirt and deposits in the radiators.

As we mention and understand.

Not everyone knows where is the entrance, where is the exit?

Connection errors

If your battery is connected incorrectly, it's easy to check. According to physical laws, the maximum heat transfer occurs when hot water or coolant moves from top to bottom. This suggests that the leading system should be located on top, and not below, and the return line should be vice versa.

Advice! Checking the system when using metal pipes does not raise questions: we looked at which pipe comes up to the radiator from above, grabbed it with our hand - hot, it means everything is fine, cold, it means a rearrangement is necessary. It is more difficult to understand plastic pipes. Here, only the previous battery can be a guideline.

If it is hot, and the connection of the leading and outlet systems is identical, then this is not the problem at all. If there are differences, the system will have to be soldered.

Proper connection of the heating system is the key to heat.

As a result, you get a decrease in battery efficiency by almost half, the explanation for this phenomenon is very simple:

The coolant, passing through a narrow pipe, enters the radiator and collides with the cold mass. According to the laws of convection, it rushes upward;
Having reached the top point and having passed along the entire length of the battery, the coolant practically flies into the return pipe;
For all his short journey, all he managed to do was give off heat only to the upper part of the battery and the first vertical passage.
The solution to the problem is the urgent replacement of connections. And remember, entry is only from above, exit is only from below.

Advice! If you do not have shutoff valves for the heating system in the apartment, then before turning off the riser, warn your neighbors and calculate the time you need to carry out repairs with a gap of half an hour for unforeseen circumstances.

If you have been operating the system for a long time and this is the first time you have experienced such a problem, the reason is not in the wiring diagram. Move on.

Air is my enemy

And again, physics is indispensable. Air is lighter than water, so it will tend to occupy a "dominant" position, that is, upper floors, extreme batteries, and similar niches.

It is he who is the main culprit in the problem called why the last radiators are cold in a two-pipe system. Because there is air.

What to do? Air entering the system with water is either vented or enters the radiator.

In this case, there is only one option:

By opening the Mayevsky tap, you bleed all the air. The criterion for the release of air is the outflow of water without a characteristic whistle or hiss of airiness;
Close the faucet tightly, making sure that water does not ooze;
When working with an autonomous heating system, feed the system by filling it with water until the pressure gauge needle enters the green sector.

The price of the solution is simple - remove the air.

For your information! A small amount of water can also cause the above problems, therefore, in houses and apartments with autonomous heating, control of the system readings falls entirely on the owners.

A few words about fittings

Shut-off valves are designed and built in so that, if necessary, it is possible to remove the battery without turning off the entire system. For them, according to all technological calculations, two positions are provided - full opening and full closing.

Only in this case, the normal functioning of the radiators and the system as a whole is possible. But there are situations called "undercooked".

What happens in this case:

A natural narrowing is formed at the place of passage of the coolant. As in traffic jams, in narrow places the speed of movement decreases, but the rate of heat transfer does not;
Until the water crawls to its highest point at low speed, all the heat will be given away along the way. It will go down at room temperature.

Advice! Check the condition of the shut-off valves before the start of the heating season, so that later you do not puzzle over the question of why the radiator is hot from above and cold from below.

Mud, where?

Sometimes the cause of cold batteries is dirt accumulated in them.

Dirt is formed from the system. This is the low quality of water purification, and the products of the interaction of metal and water. Unfortunately, this process is difficult to control.

The appearance of dirt in the radiator can be diagnosed by the futility of previous measures.

In this case, we do the following:

We close the shut-off valve on the radiator;
We unscrew the connecting nuts and drain the water from the radiator;
We remove the battery with our own hands, clean it mechanically and rinse it with water.

Finally

Our guide is over. Before the video in this article undertakes to highlight the problem, let's summarize a little.

Summary! Some problems can be avoided with the initial and correct connection of the entire system, others require preventive maintenance.

Page 3

Monitoring the operation of the heating system is very important. This applies both to saving energy resources and to the safety of its operation. One of the devices that help to optimally configure heating equipment is a radiator control valve.

It will be discussed in this article.

Radiator valve photo

General provisions

There are three devices that allow you to limit or block the movement of the coolant through the heating battery:

The thermostatic valve for the heating radiator automatically regulates the supply of coolant

Thus, if we need exactly shut-off valves to block the movement of water into the battery, then it is most effective to install a simple ball valve. But, if constant monitoring and regulation of the flow is required, then, of course, it is worth stopping at the installation of a radiator valve, which will provide a lot of advantages:

Advantages

Saving energy resources. When the room is warm enough, the radiator valve cuts off the flow of coolant, thereby significantly reducing upcoming utility bills.

Tip: if the house has more than one floor, then it is first of all recommended to equip the highest points with thermostats. After all, as we all know from the school physics course, heat rises, therefore, valves there will bring the greatest benefit.

Prevention of emergencies. If a critical temperature or pressure occurs in the system, the thermostat will completely block the movement of water until the situation normalizes.

The valve for the bottom connection of the radiator prevents the occurrence of emergencies

Tip: after a complete blockage of the fluid supply by the thermostat is triggered, it is worth checking its condition and replacing it if deformations are detected. Otherwise, the next time the device may simply not work.

Simple installation instructions. You can easily replace any shut-off valve with a thermal valve at any time without calling expensive professional plumbers.

Installing a thermostat with your own hands is not difficult

Attractive appearance that does not spoil the overall interior of the room.

Radiator angle valve fits harmoniously into the overall concept of the heating system

Ease of use. You just need to install the device, after which it will perform its functions automatically.
The low price, which, in comparison with the amenities provided, seems insignificant at all.

Design features

The control valve for radiators has the following design:

Device and principle of operation

The structure of the thermostat

The principle of operation of such devices is very simple. In the event of an excessive increase in ambient temperature, the temperature-sensitive fluid expands, pulling the bellows, which in turn moves the stem in contact with it in the valve, due to which the supply channel is narrowed.

As a result, the amount of coolant is reduced, and the radiator is cooled, normalizing the microclimate in the room.

After the conditions are normalized, the whole process occurs in reverse order, increasing the heating of the equipment.

Variations

Radiator valve for bottom connection or corner thermostat are the most common models.

But there are a couple more options to consider:

Internal spring, which, as the name suggests, is hidden inside the battery. In the event of an increase in pressure in the system, the spring is compressed, and the spool shuts off the coolant supply.

Safety internal spring valve for radiator

Electronic thermostat.

This option is much more expensive than its mechanical counterparts described above, but it has significantly expanded functionality:

First, it has a display that shows the exact temperature in the battery.
Secondly, its sensitivity is much higher, which allows it to respond to thermal changes much faster.
Thirdly, such devices can be programmed. That is, you can, for example, set a lower temperature during your absence, which will lead to tangible savings.

The thermoelectric actuator of the heating radiator valve has additional functions

Conclusion

Valves for heating radiators allow you to control the movement of the coolant through their channels. This gives savings in energy resources used and confidence in the safe operation of the entire heating system.

A battery equipped with a thermal valve works more economically and safely

The video in this article will introduce you to additional materials that are directly related to the information presented. Take care of the safe and economical operation of the heating system in your own home.

Comparison of heating boilers for different types of fuel

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How to install a bracket for a heating radiator. Installation of bimetallic radiators

Air vent devices

Stubs

Locking elements

Additional tools and materials

Selecting an installation location

Rules for installing heating radiators

Wall mounting methods

Installation of underfloor heating devices

Tying heating devices

One way connection

Diagonal connection

Saddle connection

The device of bimetallic batteries

Calculation of the required number of sections

Selecting a battery installation location

Self-assembly of sectional heating batteries

Necessary tools and additional materials

Repacking radiator sections

Options for connecting the heater to the distribution pipelines

Mounting a bimetallic radiator on the wall

Floor mounting of radiators

Related videos

Types of heating systems

Single pipe system

Two-pipe system

Collector system

Wiring diagrams

Mounting

Traditional Battery Locations

Design specifics of heating devices

Overview of popular heating appliances

Details about the types of radiators

Characteristics of the convector variety

Brief description of heating registers

Calculation of thermal power of batteries

Efficient ways to connect

The final stage of battery selection

Preparing collapsible radiators for installation

Fixing collapsible radiators in place

Fixing in place non-collapsible views

Connecting batteries to heating systems

Mounting aluminum radiators

Calculations for fixing heating radiators to the wall, selection and installation

Types of radiators for heating systems

Cast iron batteries

Steel radiators

Aluminum radiators

Bimetal radiators

Stages of work

Preparatory stage

How to properly install

Heating installation

Reliability of fastening of heating pipes and radiator batteries is the key to the trouble-free functioning of the system as a whole

Why the mount must be secure

How to fix radiators

Fixing the radiator to the wall

Floor mounting of radiators

How to fix pipelines

How to fix an expansion tank

Features of fixing heating in a wooden house

How to fix the radiator to the wall - installation procedure

General information

Mounting

Training

Installation of cast iron batteries

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries

Connection Features

Output

Page 2

back to school

Any problems?

Every event has a reason

Connection errors

Air is my enemy

A few words about fittings

Mud, where?

Finally

Page 3

General provisions