How to make a wide beautiful hunting knife. Making a hunting knife with your own hands

On a hunt, or on a hike, a knife is an indispensable attribute. Unfortunately, the prices for professional knives in specialized stores are very high. A good knife starts at $200. Although there are a lot of simpler, Chinese options on the market, the quality of the metal remains to be desired.

My version of a camping knife is not very professional, but in terms of quality, steel strength, reliability, it's a great option. We start, as always, with a sketch. To do this, I use a simple pencil, a metal ruler, plain paper, and a curved ruler (also called a French curve).

After designing, we cut out a small paper prototype. We apply to the metal, circle it. We take as a basis a piece of an old, thick hacksaw for metal (strong enough).

Carefully, with the help of a grinder, we cut our knife as evenly as possible. Forming a blade. Of course, it won’t work out perfectly, but we try to do everything as accurately as possible so that we have to grind as little as possible.

We grind the irregularities. At the output, we have a finished blade, albeit with traces of rust, and also incredibly dull.

Next is a very important step - sharpening. To do this, it is necessary to fix the blade well to the table, after which, with the help of a grinder, gently and gently grind off a little from the edges, so that a thin cutting part is formed.

With the help of a grinding nozzle, on a grinder, we remove a layer of rust from the surface of the blade.

It's easy with a pen. We take two small bars, in our case - oak. It is important that there are no signs of pests, petioles, etc. on the bars. It is very important! Using wood glue, coat the joint. We fasten on zippers. We give it a chance to freeze.

We grind off all the extra parts of the tree, forming a comfortable handle, to the size of the blade.

We drill several holes in the handle using a very durable drill, with diamond coating. With the help of copper rivets we fasten the entire structure. Together with the rivet, add a little glue to the hole for strength.

We give the glue to dry for a while, after which we clean off all the bumps with sandpaper. We cover the handle with varnish. That's actually all. The tourist knife is ready.

Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have connected their lives with extreme outdoor activities - these are: fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.

In modern times, there are various knives on the market: variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that is made by hand.

How to make a knife with your own hands is often written on the Internet, and you should try to make them.

Knives: types and main properties

On the photos of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is a creative element created from various mechanisms.

There is a large classification of knives depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, a butterfly), knives designed for hunting, multi-tools, bivouac knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.

Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives intended for hunting or for tourism can be easily made at home on your own.

There are also such knives as survival knives, the main task of which is to help with existence in the wild. This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.

The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish, or other similar actions. The small dimensions make it easy to transport such a knife.

In the manufacture of such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.

Steps to create a knife

To get a positive result during the manufacture of the knife, you must first sketch out the drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve in the end.

Instructions on how to make a knife at home includes a number of rules.

Making a knife step by step

Cut out the blank for the future knife. Based on the finished drawing, cut out the shape for the knife.

You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, bring the base to the desired shape. And after that, an already understandable blank will be in the hands, where you can distinguish the places of the handle and blade.

Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage, you clearly need to know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking, then it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.

And, if the knife is created to function in the kitchen or in the garden, then a razor type will do.

Do not expect perfect sharpening from this stage, because this is just a draft, intended to determine the future shape.

If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. A variety of materials are used to create the handle - these are: wood, organic glass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.

Note!

Having cut out the workpiece to create the handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in your hand, as well as its proportionality with respect to the blade. The handle for the knife is fixed using the riveting method.

The shape for the foot handle is attached using a grinding machine.

The knife is ground and polished on the basis of sandpaper.

The final sharpening of the blade is done after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.

At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet or polish.

Note!

As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not that difficult, so everyone can try their hand at this area.

You can also set the necessary and desired design for the future knife. Pay special attention to the handle during the design process.

knife design

Since it is by the handle of the knife that the rest can then judge your creative thinking and status.

Some write their names on the handles of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.

The simplest knife can be built in an emergency in the forest, the main thing is to find the materials necessary to create it.

Note!

It is worth finding only the cutting part for the knife, and then you should insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, ropes or leather.

DIY knife photo

A hunting knife is essential for every hunter. First of all, it is used for finishing off and butchering prey, but in addition, it remains a faithful assistant in a variety of hunting situations. Now on sale you can find a huge number of various models and modifications of blades. But, despite this, the need to make a knife for yourself may arise. Usually this happens due to the inability to buy the right blade, either in return for a lost or broken one, or seen from friends and liked, or there is not exactly the knife that you need for sale.

Making a knife from a 9HF saw

In this article, we will not focus on the shape and design of the blade, the type and width of sharpening, etc. We believe that we already have a finished project or sample and will focus on the production itself.

A homemade hunting knife, so that it meets the basic requirements for such blades, is recommended to be made from high-carbon alloy steels. For example:

• 9HF- tool alloy steel, used for the manufacture of frame, band and circular saws, punches, trimming dies and a number of other tools. Usually, saw blades are taken as blanks;
• R6M5– high-speed alloy steel of high strength. It is used for the manufacture of many types of cutting tools, drills, saw circles, and the latter can be used to make a workpiece;
• 65G- spring steel, with high wear resistance, can be blued and blackened. They make springs, springs, gears, etc. For blanks, in addition to sheets, rear springs of trucks are used. Considered one of the cheapest knife materials;
• X12, R3M3F2 and a number of others are also suitable.

The material for the workpiece can be taken from the above products, although now on the Internet you can order a plate for the workpiece from almost any steel. As a recommendation, take a pendulum saw blade for metal, the usual dimensions are 400x30 mm, 2 mm thick, the surface is rough, the color is black or gray.
If you want to make a homemade knife at home, in addition to the material for the workpiece, we need:

• Angle grinder (Bulgarian)
• Circles for it, cutting off for alloy steel, for example inox A54S BF, sharpening and grinding.
• Drill or drilling machine
• Vise
• Pobeditovoye and other special drills
• Files and diamond file
• Sanding machine (very desirable).

The process of making a knife will be as follows:

The knife handle can be wound with paracord or made of wood, in the latter case, we drill holes in the handle according to a template, according to a sample or drawing. Holes are drilled with special drills with concomitant cooling with oil. It is more convenient to do this on a drilling machine.

To simplify the process, the holes are drilled first with small diameter drills, and then gradually reamed to the desired size.

Handle

Knives are made with different handles. The choice of material for their manufacture depends on the purpose for which the knife is intended, ease of use and the personal preferences of the owner. Below are two ways to make a knife handle at home.

Wrap the handle with paracord in a few minutes

Using a paracord cord as a knife handle is not only easier and faster, but also more practical. You will always have a couple of meters of cord with you, which can be used for a variety of purposes, when surviving in extreme situations.

For winding we need:

• cord, 2 - 2.5 m;
• thick tape or electrical tape;
• lighter or matches;
• scissors;
• gloves;
• screwdriver.

Before you start winding the cord, decide if you need a lanyard loop and, if necessary, where it will be, on the side of the blade near the stop or at the end of the handle. If it is available, in addition to the ability to hang a knife, in the first case, you can put your thumb through it to make it more convenient and reliable to hold the knife, in the second, you can remove the knife from its sheath, etc.

Winding paracord is done in this order:

• We wet the cord, while it stretches better, and when dry, it will sit no more monolithically on the knife.
• We seal the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts or cutting the cord. All operations are best performed with gloves.
  
• We press one end of the cord on the head of the handle so that 10 cm remains free.
  
• From the cord we form a loop laid along the handle so that the top of the loop protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond the cord winding zone.
  
• Then, holding the knife in your left hand and pressing both ends of the loop with your thumb, with your right hand we begin to wind the cord around the handle, starting from its head.
  We make the winding tight, turn to turn, do not tighten it at all, we take into account that the cord will still sit down after drying.
  
• Having brought the winding to the stop at the blade, we pass the remaining end of the cord into the protruding part of the loop.
• We cut off the excess cord, leaving about 3 - 5 cm, and burn the end of the cord.
  
• After that, pulling the free end of the cord from the side of the head of the handle, we pull the loop under the winding until the end threaded into it disappears under the winding. Avoid fully stretching the loop, otherwise the entire winding will unravel.

The wrapping is completed. With this option, we will not have a winding loop for a lanyard. If we want to form it, the winding is somewhat complicated. Initially, two loops are laid on the handle on both sides of the knife.

To form a loop under the lanyard on the head of the knife, the end of the cord is pressed on the head of the handle and one loop is pulled to the blade, then the cord is thrown over the headband and the second loop is also laid on the other side. The winding starts from the head of the knife. Having finished the winding, the remaining end is threaded into both loops near the blade and pulled under the winding by the loop in the headband, thereby forming it.

In order for the loop to be near the stop, we do everything the same, but on the contrary, we begin to lay and wind from the stop, in the same place we pull the loop to tighten the clamped end under the winding.

Making a false handle as an alternative to paracord

If you are an adherent of the classics and want to make a regular handle, use a tree for this purpose. It is more accessible, easier to work with, the wooden handle is more pleasant to the touch, does not cool, slips less in the hand, and if processed correctly, does not take moisture. The knife handle can be made of oak, beech, maple, birch, walnut or mahogany. In order not to waste time and effort preparing and drying wood, there are two easy ways to get it. The first is parquet, you can buy it in a special store, where, by the way, expensive varieties are sold by the piece. The second is old furniture, in the attic, in the garage, in the country, with friends, you can always find unnecessary household trash and use it.
For the handle, you need two dies, if you have a standard-sized hand, then 10 - 15 mm thick, this is with a margin for processing, so that the thickness of the future handle is about 20 mm. The length of the workpieces is 150 - 200 mm, so that there is room for their fixation during initial processing.

In addition to the tree, we need:

• dowels made of aluminum, copper, brass, iron according to the number of holes of the corresponding diameter;
• drill with drills or drilling machine;
• drills according to the number of holes in the handle of the same diameter;
• a grinding or grinding machine, it can be replaced by a file for wood and a lot, a lot of time;
• electric jigsaw or manual jigsaw, or see the previous paragraph;
• engraving machine or file with a file;
• emery cloth of different numbers up to the smallest;
• epoxy adhesive;
• linseed oil;
• thick tape or electrical tape;
• vise, clamp.

We make the handle as follows:

1. Before starting work, we wrap the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts.
2. The first step is drilling. We put the knife blank on a wooden plate, press it with a clamp or, at worst, wrap it with tape and drill holes. To make the hole neat, we first drill with a thin drill, and then ream to the desired diameter. After the first hole has been drilled, we insert a key or a drill of the same diameter into it, this is done to fix it so that the die does not move. Let's move on to the next hole.
   
3. We drill the second die in the same way.
4. After drilling, we assemble the dies on the knife, using dowels or drills, to make sure all the holes match.
   
5. Then, attaching alternately the dies to the knife with the help of dowels or drills and clamps, we outline the contour of the handle along the contour of the knife. It is advisable to mark the handle with a small indent, 1 - 2 mm, for further processing.
6. After marking, we cut out the handle with a jigsaw-electric jigsaw or grind it on a grinding wheel, in extreme cases, a file in your hands.
   
7. Dowels are ready. To make the homemade knife look aesthetically pleasing, we will not rivet the keys, but glue them. To do this, we make chaotic cuts on the dowels with an engraving machine or a file, in which the glue will solidify and seize. At the ends of the dowels, we remove the inclined chamfer under 450.
   
8. Since after gluing it will be inconvenient to process the cheeks of the stop, we finish them and polish them with emery.
9. We carefully grind the halves of the handle on the sandpaper from the inside so that they fit snugly when glued to the plane of the knife shank.
10. Before gluing, we make the last test assembly.
11. Gluing itself is carried out according to the instructions for the glue. The assembly order is as follows, we lubricate the inside of one half, insert the dowels smeared with glue into it, put a knife on them, and then the greased second half.
    Clamp the assembled handle in a vise and remove excess squeezed glue. We leave the clamped handle for a day.
12. After the glue hardens with the help of files, emery, a grinding wheel, and so on, we finally form, grind and grind the knife handle.
    
    
    
13. When the handle is fully polished, it is time to impregnate. It is best to impregnate the tree with linseed oil. It can be bought at the artist's shop, they dilute oil paints with it.
    The handle is kept in oil from three days to a week. The process can be accelerated by boiling the handle in oil for a couple of hours, but you need to strictly monitor the temperature, otherwise the glue may leak.
    
14. Then the handle should dry out at natural temperature for about a month, during which time the oil will polymerize, and the wood will harden and become immune to moisture.
15. After drying, the handle is finally polished with a soft cloth.

Sharpening for beginners

Before talking about sharpening a hunting knife, it must be recalled that homemade knives made from the metals recommended in the article are very difficult and take a long time to sharpen, since the alloy steels used have high hardness. This must be remembered when using the knife for other purposes.

Now about the sharpening itself. At home, knives are sharpened on special whetstones. Such stones are ceramic (the cheapest and most common), diamond, natural and from Japanese sea stones. The principle of sharpening on them is approximately the same, so in the future, by default, we will talk about the most common, ceramic grindstone.
In order to sharpen a knife with high quality, it is desirable to have either two whetstones of different grain sizes, or, more often, a whetstone whose sides have different grain sizes. For the convenience of sharpening, the size, or rather the length, of the stone should be greater than the length of the knife blade.

It is advisable to sharpen the knife with both hands, so it is advisable to place the whetstone on a separate board, fixing it either in a recess specially cut out for this, or with the help of six carnations driven in on the sides.
Knife sharpening begins on the roughest stone. At this stage, the grindstone can not be wetted. We place the stone on the table arbitrarily, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to sharpen on it.

The whole process of sharpening consists in giving the edge of the blade an acute-angled shape. When doing it, you need to remember a few basic rules:

• you need to choose the optimal angle of sharpening the knife and stick to it throughout the entire process;
• the knife is driven along the stone with the blade forward, as if cutting off a thin layer from it;
• in one movement, you need to carry out the entire edge of the blade for uniform sharpening;
• the edge of the blade must always be perpendicular to the direction of travel;
• each next time the blade must be turned over and held on the other side so as not to shift the center of the bevel of the blade;
• movements should be smooth, without pressure;
• it is better to sharpen both sides with a unidirectional movement, either towards oneself or away from oneself, since the movement of the hand away from oneself is always worse and weaker than the movement towards oneself.

Now with regard to the angle of sharpening. It can be from 450 to 300, in the first case the knife will keep sharpening longer, in the second it will be sharper. It is better to sharpen a hunting knife exactly under 300, this is easy to achieve, just when sharpening the knife, guide it as if you were cutting a thin slice of butter or cheese.

After you have screwed in the initial sharpness by deducing the angle of the edge of the blade, you can move on to a stone of less dispersion. It is advisable to periodically moisten it with water so that the edge of the blade slides better, and metal dust does not clog pores.
You can finally sharpen the blade to a mirror shine and razor sharpness by straightening it on an old leather belt with GOI paste. The main feature of dressing with GOI paste is that the knife is led back to the direction of the blade, i.e. butt forward.

Making a scabbard (case) from leather

One of the necessary accessories of a hunting knife is a scabbard. They are needed to protect the blade from dulling, and everything around from cuts and damage to things.

You can make a homemade sheath yourself at home, from a small piece of leather about 3 mm thick.

For this, in addition to the skin, you will need:

• scissors;
• a sheet of thick paper for the template;
• pen;
• an awl (it can be replaced by a sharpened nail or cloves);
• small cloves and a hammer;
• universal glue;
• fork;
• paraffin candle;
• fine emery or grinding machine;
• kapron thread and one or two large needles;
• pliers;
• button closure;
• wax or cream.

The procedure for making a cover will be as follows:

1. We make a template. Having attached the blade of the knife to a sheet of paper, we circle it along the contour.
   Then, around this contour with a centimeter indent, draw another contour, it will be the main one. Cut out the template along the outer contour. Separately, we cut out a T-shaped part for the fastener, the width of the straps of which is about 20 mm, we measure the length of the straps by the handle of the knife.
2. We mark the details on the skin. Having attached the template to the skin, we circle the part for one side of the scabbard, then moving the template to the side by 5 - 8 mm we circle only one side to get the part on the half of the insert.
   Then, turning the template over, we repeat the steps, outlining the second side and the second half of the insert. Attach and outline the T-shaped part of the fastener.
   
3. We take scissors and carefully cut out all the details from the leather.
   
4. Having attached to the knife, we try on all the details for a match.
   
5. We rub the ends of the insert on the clasp with paraffin candles, and then grind them on emery.
   
   
   
6. We attach the fastener to one half, and with the help of an awl and carnations, we outline and punch holes for the thread, in two rows.
   
7. We sew on the fastener, the thread can be pre-lubricated with paraffin.
   
8. For the convenience of subsequent stitching, we glue the parts together. We cut out a part from the template along the contour of the blade itself. We put this part on the half of the scabbard and coat it with glue around it so that the glue does not crawl out of the inserts. We glue according to the instructions on the tube. Lubricate and glue the inserts.
   
9. At the tip of the scabbard, between the inserts, we cut a groove for ventilation.
   
10. Glue the other half. We put the sheath under the press for a while for high-quality gluing.
    
11. We check how the knife enters and sits.
    
12. On the emery we process the edges of the scabbard.
    
13. With the help of a fork, drawing two prongs along the edge of the scabbard, we outline the contour for stitching. With a fork, we mark the places of the holes for the thread.
    
14. If you want, you can mess around by cutting a groove in the front of the sheath for the thread so that it is flush with the skin. In this case, it will then need to be polished with wax or cream in the same color as the scabbard.
    
15. We punch holes for the thread with an awl.
    
16. We sew the cover. You can sew with one thread, or with two threads, threading them into the holes one at a time.
17. Attach a button fastener.
    
    
    
18. Finally we grind and polish the scabbard with wax or cream.
    

The scabbard is ready.

On the modern knife market there is a wide selection of a wide variety of piercing and cutting products. A variety of materials can be used to make them. It all depends on what purpose the knife is intended for. Blades used in hunting are in great demand among consumers. Despite the wide range of branded models available, many prefer to use handicraft products.

It is not difficult to make a hunting knife with your own hands if you have the right tool and consumables. The fact is that homemade products are not inferior in quality to factory-made blades. In addition, according to experienced hunters, using such a cutting product is much more pleasant. You will learn how to make a hunting knife at home from this article.

Introduction to cutting

The hunting knife is a blade cold weapon. It is used as the main tool in situations where the carcasses of hunted animals are butchered. In addition, branches are cut with such a knife and chips for a fire are planed.

What is special about blades?

Before making a hunting knife with your own hands, you should be aware of the features of this type of blade. A distinctive feature is that mainly hunting knives are equipped with a blood drawer. Due to the presence of a fuller, the blade is given additional strength and hardness. The cutting product has a straight 12-15 cm blade, which is slightly narrower in comparison with the handle. The knife will be more effective if the center of gravity in it is shifted to the handle, as a result of which the load on the brush will be minimized. According to experienced hunters, with such a cutting tool, the hands do not get tired, and it is much more convenient to use it.

The production of hunting knives is carried out taking into account the climatic zone. At sub-zero temperatures and in conditions with high humidity, it is more advisable to use products with wooden handles. During operation, the knife will not freeze and slip out of the palm of your hand.

What will be needed for work?

In order for a do-it-yourself hunting knife to meet all the necessary parameters, you need to acquire the following tool and consumables:

• vise;
• emery;
• a drill and several drills;
• files;
• sandpaper;
• abrasive bars;
• diamond files;
• hammer and chisels.

It will be much more convenient to work on a special mounting table equipped with a vice. Judging by the numerous reviews, good blades are obtained from R6M5 steel. This material is used for the manufacture of pendulum saws. For those who are going to make a hunting knife with their own hands, experts also recommend paying attention to drills and hacksaw blades. The optimal length of the latter should be 450 mm, width - 35. Very high-quality cutting products are made from Damascus steel. However, working with such metal will require a specialized forge and many tools. As a result, the manufacturing process will turn out to be too laborious. Therefore, it is better to use ready-made steel. How to make a hunting knife with your own hands? More on this below.

Where to begin?

For those who do not know how to make a hunting knife, experts recommend working according to a sketch. To do this, markup is applied to the selected metal.

Next, the workpiece is carefully turned on the machine. For this purpose, you can also use an angle grinder (grinder), equipped with a cutting wheel. At this stage, the metal can be spoiled, namely, its cutting properties can be reduced. To prevent this, the workpiece should be moistened regularly, to prevent overheating.

About blade making

In the process of manufacturing the blades, the excess is removed from the metal blank. Near the shank itself, the corners need to be slightly rounded, with such a design the blade will be stronger. A novice master should be prepared for the fact that the sharpening procedure will be quite long. It is carried out on grindstones with different grain sizes.

First, sharpening is done on a coarse-grained wheel. Often beginners spoil the blade. The reason is the inconsistent angle. If the knife is designed for heavy and rough work, the blade should be sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees, 20 for medium, 10-15 degrees for thin. According to the masters, sharpening is a very important element of work, on which the cutting properties of the blade will depend.

With concave slopes, which are the easiest to make, the knife will be ineffective. With a “flat wedge” sharpening, the blade will have average cutting performance. However, this will be possible with a two-millimeter blade. If a hacksaw blade is used as a raw material, then its thickness in this case will not be enough. It is recommended to equip the knife with a sharpening in the form of a concave lens. The blade will be effective for through cuts.

About handles

Dried woods are used to make handles. For this purpose, walnut, beech, maple, pear, cherry, birch and mahogany are suitable. You can buy the right material in a specialized store or donate some old furniture. Handles can be mounted and laid on.

In the first case, a hole is drilled in a wooden block for the shank. Installation is carried out with adhesives. Many craftsmen weld a bolt to the shank. Thus, it becomes possible to drill through the bar through. The handle is attached with a screw-on nut.

How to make a hole in the workpiece?

Often, beginners encounter difficulties when they need to make several holes for rivets. If steel does not take even a victorious drill, then 27 Volt electrolysis should be used. To do this, do the following:

• Dilute salt in a container with water.
• Apply a quick-drying varnish to the workpiece and wrap it with insulating tape. In the place where the master wants to make a hole, a small circle should be cut out in the film.
• Next, the workpiece must be placed in a container.

The principle of this technology lies in the fact that under the influence of a positive charge applied to the workpiece and a negative charge to the electrolyte, a hole is formed in the metal in direct contact with the solution. At the end of the procedure, it can be expanded with a needle file.

Sleeve manufacturing

In an effort to reduce the load on the shank, the knife is equipped with a special sleeve. This element is a brass or bronze plate. These metals have anti-corrosion properties and are easy to process. The bushing should be cut according to the drawing. Further, using a drill, several holes are made in the plate in a row. Then, with the help of a needle file, they are connected to each other. Thus, a hole should be obtained into which the shank is threaded. Many craftsmen-homemade bushings are additionally soldered to the blade.

Final stage

Grinding is considered the procedure that, at the very end, hand-made hunting knives are subjected to. A photo of such home-made products is presented in the article.

Hello fishermen and hunters, I present to your attention a strong, beautiful, high-quality knife that you can make with your own hands. Such a knife will be your great friend during tourism, hunting, fishing and other similar activities. Despite the fact that the knife looks very high quality, it is not so difficult to make it yourself. You will need a minimum set of tools for this, the most difficult thing will be grinding and polishing if you do not have a grinder, grinder, and so on.

But in order for the knife to turn out to be strong and of high quality, you need to choose good steel for it. Unfortunately, the author did not indicate which grade of steel he used. But nowadays you can buy a blank for a knife of any grade of steel. The most important thing is that the steel has enough carbon in its composition for hardening. By the way, good steel is used in old Soviet files, various cutters and other tools. So, let's take a closer look at how to make such a wonderful knife!

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- carbon steel for the blade;
- wood for overlays;
- sheet brass for the handle;
- brass or steel pins;
- epoxy adhesive.

List of tools:
- belt sander;
- orbital sander;
- grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- grinder;
- drill or drilling machine;
- drill;
- hammer;
- sandpaper;
- Japanese water stone or other sharpening tool;
- blacksmith's furnace and oil for hardening.

Knife making process:

Step one. Cut out the main rough profile
First, prepare the source material and apply a template on it. A ready-made template can be found on the Internet, for example, there are quite a lot of them on the Pinterest resource. We scale the drawing properly and print it on the printer, then cut it out. You can cut out a template from cardboard, it will last for a long time, and you can also hold such a template in your hands and figure out what the future knife will look like.

Next, we transfer the template to the workpiece. For convenience, the author painted over the “body” of the knife in green. If the template is made of paper, it can simply be glued to the workpiece. Let's start cutting, for these purposes the author used an ordinary grinder. We securely fasten the workpiece with a clamp. Straight lines shouldn't be a problem, but curves will take some effort. To cut the bends, we make a series of transverse cuts. After that, you can cut pieces of metal in sectors. Of course, there will be a lot of uncut metal left, but now it can be easily removed.

Step two. Primary grinding
After cutting, we need to bring the outline of the blade to mind. For these purposes, we go with a knife to the grinder, remove all unnecessary. We also go through the contour on a belt grinder. Bends can be easily processed with a drill with the appropriate attachment. The best way to do this is with sandpaper.

Step three. We form bevels
This is a very crucial moment in the processing of the blade. We need to form bevels, that is, the angle of sharpening the blade. To begin with, we make markings, for this the author uses a caliper. You also need to be sure to divide the future blade into two halves, so it will be very convenient for you to grind off the metal on both sides of equal thickness. This line is usually drawn with a drill of the same diameter as the thickness of the blade.

To begin with, we take a file and apply the end of the bevel on the blade. Well, then we arm ourselves with a grinder with a grinding nozzle and remove excess metal. When everything is ready, we carry out finer processing on a belt grinder. At the end, we go through the bevel with files, grind with sandpaper and polish if desired.

Step four. Drilling holes
We drill holes for the pins in the handle of the blade. The wider the handle, the more pins you need to install. The author decided to install 5 pins. We mark the places and drill holes. If the hole diameter is large, use a small diameter drill first. If the steel is hardened, a carbide-tipped drill may be required to drill it. It is easier to drill steel if the drill is lubricated.

Step five. Tempering the blade
Now the blade can be hardened, for this you will need a forging furnace. In principle, you can simply inflate the coals with a household hair dryer, and the temperature can be obtained at the same time more than sufficient. Usually carbon steel glows yellowish, with this glow it can be cooled in oil. But all brands have become different, as well as hardening methods, this must be remembered.
When the blade is hardened, the metal should not be filed. After that, metal is usually tempered, otherwise it will be very brittle.

When the blade has cooled, we clean it of oil, usually they are washed under running water using detergents. Next, the author polished the blade with fine sandpaper to a shine.

Step six. Let's move on to making a pen.
The author's handle is combined, it consists of brass and wooden slips. First, let's start with brass overlays, for this we need sheet brass, we cut out four parts from it for the front and back of the handle. Brass is cut perfectly with a grinder. Next, drill holes for the pins in the pads, and now you can install them on the handle. This will allow you to adjust the products to the shape of the handle. You will need brass pins, in the end they will become one with the overlays. The pins should be of such a diameter that they enter the material with little effort. After installing the pins, they need to be riveted.

Next, you can proceed to the wooden lining, for this, look for planks of suitable thickness. We cut the boards to the desired length and drill holes for the pins. We install the pads on epoxy glue, this is the key to their reliable fastening. As for the pins, for these purposes the author decided to use steel pins, ordinary nails are suitable for such purposes. It is not necessary to rivet these pins, since we have everything on glue. Pull the pads off with clamps and let the glue dry completely.

Step seven. Handle grinding
When the glue dries, the handle can be processed. To do this, first cut the pins, this can be done with a hacksaw or file. Next, we go to the grinder and grind the planes, everything should be on the same level. You can also sand the handle to some extent along the contour.

Now we will have those places where we could not crawl with a grinder. To process them, the author uses a drill. The sandpaper nozzle does an excellent job with this task.

Step eight. Finishing
At the end, we put a polishing nozzle on the drill and polish the brass to a golden sheen. Similarly, we pass this nozzle along the contour. If some places cannot be polished, they still need to be finished by hand with very fine sandpaper. Well, then polish the wooden part or the entire knife on a polishing machine if desired. When the pen is ready, apply oil to it. This will protect the wood from moisture, and the brass will not oxidize.