Making a milling machine with your own hands on wood. DIY milling machine

Exclusive decorations and functional details with special characteristics can be made by yourself without resorting to the services of specialized workshops. In addition to basic skills, specialized equipment is needed to solve such problems. In this publication, we will tell you in detail and with examples how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands. With the help of editorial tips, the site will be easier to avoid mistakes, even if you have not encountered such a task before reading the article.

Read in the article:

The principle of operation of milling machines for wood

The equipment of this category is intended for the creation of wood products. The technology is reminiscent of the work of a sculptor cutting off excess parts of a shapeless workpiece. In this case, the main functions are performed by the cutter. This tool with sharp edges rotates at high speed, which speeds up work operations. It is driven by an electric motor. To ensure the necessary accuracy of movement, specialized mechanical devices are used.

The drawing shows the design of a professional category machine. This example is suitable for studying typical functional components:

1. In order for the manual movement of workpieces to be accurate, special rulers (1, 5) and a multi-position sector (2) with teeth are used. These parts are fixed on the table (17).
2. The limiter (4) prevents foreign objects from entering the working area.
3. Remote control (6) is placed at a convenient access distance. The emergency power switch and other controls are brought here.
4. The cutter (3) is mounted on the spindle (12). It is reinforced with an additional upper support (7), which is inserted into the bracket (8). To lift this unit there is a special flywheel (9).
5. The handle (10) with a screw drive regulates the tension of the belt drive.
6. The electric motor (11) is located at the bottom. The massive bed provides stability in all operating modes.
7. A separate flywheel (13) changes the height of the spindle. The switch (15) sets its rotational speed.
8. The main switch (16) is installed on the side wall.

This design is designed for heavy loads. It is suitable for building metalworking equipment. In this publication, we are talking about milling machines for wood, so it is acceptable to use a less durable power frame, electric drives of relatively low power.

This design with a wide and solid table is well suited for facing large workpieces. Working operations are performed manually, so rulers and other limiters are useful.

This option provides higher machining accuracy with the help of rigid clamping of the workpiece and built-in smooth movement mechanisms.

This is the most expensive equipment with improved technical characteristics. Here, the spindle for wood milling machine moves along with the tool along a given path very accurately using stepper motors without intervention and careful control from the user. Provides high processing speed without sacrificing quality. An additional advantage is the possibility of repeated repetition of the same technological processes.

In this design, the working unit is rigidly connected to the control probe, which limits its movement, taking into account the shape of the sample. With the use of this not too complicated device, you can create high-quality copies in your home workshop.

For your information! If necessary, you can find instructions for creating home-made turning and milling machines for wood, and other modifications. In any case, it is necessary to determine in advance the characteristics of future technological operations in order to clarify the parameters of suitable equipment.

How to choose the power drive power of a wood milling machine for a home workshop

Specialists recommend choosing a power unit for equipment in this category with a power of at least 1.4-1.6 kW. If it is assumed that large volumes of work will be constantly performed, this parameter is increased by 20–25%. Sufficiently powerful equipment performs its functions without overloads, which reduces the risk of breakdowns and extends the actual service life. The price of such a milling machine will not increase significantly. But it will be possible to install large cutters.

For a correct assessment, the speed of rotation should be taken into account at the same time (range - 10,000-35,000 rpm). It must be remembered that as the diameter of the cutter increases, the angular velocity increases accordingly. If a certain threshold is exceeded, the friction force will increase the temperature until the wood blank darkens (flames occur).

Expert opinion

Tool selection consultant LLC "VseInstrumenty.ru"

Ask a specialist

“In order to eliminate difficulties in choosing the optimal processing mode, it is recommended to make a smooth adjustment of the spindle speed.”

Creating a wood milling machine with your own hands - a description of the important steps with instructions

The milling machine belongs to the class of especially dangerous designs. Therefore, before proceeding with the manufacture of such a product, be sure to study the procedure and technology of work. Otherwise, it is better to purchase a ready-made device.

What components and materials are needed in the work

Strength structural elements are best made of steel. Suitable standard corners (pipes, squares) with walls of 2 mm or more. Instead of welded joints, it is more convenient to use screw ones. In this case, disassembly for long-term storage and transportation over long distances is simplified. It will also be easier to replace a damaged part. In any case, metal elements must be protected from corrosion by successive coats of primer and paint.

The tabletop, rulers and some other parts can be made from durable woods, plywood. Such materials are destroyed under the influence of high humidity during temperature changes. This must be taken into account when placing equipment in an unheated room.

Making a do-it-yourself frame for a homemade wood milling machine

With the use of "grinder" cut off the necessary blanks. The base for the tabletop is made from a corner. In the lower part, reinforcing crossbars are installed. Support plates are welded to the ends. If you make threaded holes in them and screw in the bolts, you get a convenient fixture for stable installation of the milling table on an uneven surface wood. With your own hands, such a design, with good preliminary preparation, can be done in a day.

Countertop manufacturing

A high-quality chipboard (from 25 mm) with a thick polymer protective layer on top and on the ends is suitable. Such products have better resistance to adverse external influences, compared with an array of natural wood. With the use of milling, recesses are created. Metal profiles are inserted into them.

Other functional details

Choice of electrical equipment

The requirements for the motor, switches and other components should be considered separately. As with evaluating materials, selections must be made based on conditions in the workshop. Some electrical apparatus and devices are produced in accordance with IP standards. Its value determines the protection of the product from moisture and dust.

This marking means:

• "4" - preventing the penetration of dust particles with sizes of 1 mm or more into the housing;
• "0" - no water protection.

Features of connecting a do-it-yourself copy-milling machine for wood to a power supply

In accordance with the current rules of the PUE, there must be grounding during the operation of equipment connected to a three-phase network at 380V. Many household factory models and homemade woodturning and milling machines are designed for 220 V. In this case, it is also recommended to use a protective circuit. Grounding will prevent electric shock, damage to individual components.

In what order are components assembled?

Welding of metal corners can be done in a specialized metalworking workshop. Steel combs and other complex assemblies should also be ordered there. The assembly begins with the frame. A countertop and hanging parts are installed on it. The structure is placed on its side. Connect the electric drive and the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner. They return the machine to its working position, turn it on, check the functionality.

Additional protective elements

A similar fence is easy to make with your own hands. It should protect the user and people who may accidentally be nearby. Transparent walls are made of unbreakable plexiglass with a thickness of at least 4 mm. In some situations, it is more convenient to create a screen in close proximity to the instrument.

The parts of the equipment protruding beyond the contour of the frame are marked with yellow paint. The same warning markings are applied to fast moving parts, the inner surfaces of casings and doors. Overload protection should be used, which automatically turns off the power when the cutter is jammed, in other dangerous situations. Increases the level of safety by automatically braking the spindle after the drive is turned off.

Do-it-yourself CNC wood router - general provisions and important nuances

With a special drive system, the cutter moves vertically and horizontally within the boundaries of the desktop, tilts at the desired angle. Movement accuracy is ensured by the use of stepper motors. All actions are controlled by electronics and specialized software. To make a CNC wood router with your own hands, you need the appropriate knowledge and skills.

Detailed instructions for the implementation of such a project should be considered in detail using a separate series of feature articles. Within the framework of this publication, several universal recommendations can be made:

1. To reduce the load on the bearing parts and the spindle to a few kg, you should use high-quality, well-sharpened tools with optimal processing speed.
2. It is not necessary to choose powerful stepper motors (more than 20 W). In this project, they overcome relatively small friction forces when moving along the guides. To reduce resistance, high-quality lubrication is necessary.
3. To obtain good accuracy, stepper motors with a unit step of 1.6-2 ° are suitable (error - 2.5-3%). It is necessary to select the appropriate screw pair correctly.
4. Using a toothed belt, it is very difficult to obtain an accuracy higher than 0.3–0.4 mm over a length of 650–750 mm. A screw drive will help to solve such a problem without unnecessary difficulties.
5. It is preferable to use plain bearings. Ball analogs are characterized by large backlash.

How to make a functional wood router from a conventional drill

For your information! When choosing a drive, use the recommendations above. Power - not less than 0.5 kW. Smooth adjustment of the rotation speed is useful.

How to make a wood cutter with your own hands using inexpensive blanks

In this video you can see the process of working on a wood milling machine:

A close examination of the material shows how the master uses different tools to correctly and quickly perform individual operations.

As blanks, fittings, drills suitable for the shape of gears, tubes are used. To obtain good cutting properties, but retain strength, the working edge is sharpened at an angle in the range from 6 to 11 °. For processing metal blanks, grinders with discs designed for the corresponding loads are used.

Is it worth it to create home-made wood cutters and machine tools with your own hands: an overview of current market offers with prices and comments

Brand/Model	Average price (as of April 2018), RUB	Specifications, notes
	60500	Power - 1.125 kW, revolutions - 5.8 / 8.3 thousand / min. Connection to the network at 220 V. Belting. Desktop size - 61 × 53.4 cm.
	123000	The number of revolutions is 8 thousand / min. Power - 2.3 kW. Spindle - 30 mm. Angled tool as standard.
	59900	Minimum / maximum speed: 4.6 / 7.3 thousand / min. Power - 1.5 kW.
	4700	Manual frezer. Speed ​​- from 16,000 to 30,000 rpm. Power - 1.2 kW.
	292000	CNC milling machine. Equipped with an automated tool control system. Included is a control panel with the ability to change processing algorithms without using a computer.
	3900	A set of cutters for wood.

A high-quality manual wood router can be purchased at a reasonable price. This technique is suitable for work operations in cramped conditions. It is likely that its capabilities will be sufficient. After studying the prices for the finished product, a completely logical conclusion can be drawn: it is sometimes cheaper to buy an inexpensive wood milling machine than to create an analogue on your own. On the other hand, if you have the necessary experience and enough materials to assemble the product yourself, it is quite possible to put the new knowledge gained in this article into practice.

How to make a wood router with your own hands (video):

Anyone who works more or less seriously with wood sooner or later comes to the conclusion that it is impossible to obtain a high-quality product without milling. But for a decent household milling machine for woodworking, you will hardly have to pay less than 20 thousand rubles. Will these costs pay off and when? Will the selected unit be adapted to your most common milling operations and to what extent? Solving such questions is speculatively extremely difficult and far from always possible. The way out is to make a wood milling machine with your own hands. This will at least make it possible to understand exactly what this or that machine can do and what you can do with it. Perhaps the need to buy will disappear - a homemade product made for oneself will be handed over for years. The material of this article is intended to lead the reader to just such a turn of events.

What to do?

For processing materials, dozens of different milling operations and at least a dozen types of machines for them are used. At home, not all of their designs are repeatable by beginners and intermediate craftsmen. 2- and 3-axis CNC machines (2D and 3D wood routers) are not considered in this article. It is possible to make a 2D or 3D milling cutter on your own (item 1 in the figure below), but already having quite a lot of experience working on a simple machine, a significant amount of orders and an urgent need for a sharp increase in labor productivity. At the same time, you will have to master the programming of microcontrollers, because. finished samples are designed for a machine of a well-defined design; there will also be considerable costs for stepper motors and precision drive parts.

To begin with, at home, you can make a home-made milling machine of any of the following. varieties:

• Horizontal (pos. 2 in the figure).
• Vertical (pos. 3).
• Flat copy with pantograph (2D duplicarver, pos. 4).
• Machine for volumetric copying (3D duplikarver, pos. 5).

Tool…

The choice of a machine of one type or another is determined, of course, by the work operations most used by the master. To specify their nomenclature, you must first decide which working bodies (milling cutters) you will need the most. Most of them are applicable in both horizontal and vertical machine.

Shell cutters (pos. 1 in the figure) process preim. straight edges of the boards: cut out grooves and ridges (including shaped ones) in full length, induce a molding (shaped chamfer). The spindle assembly of the machine for shell cutters (see below) is structurally the most simple; its parts can be machined by a turner of the 3rd category. The required drive power for a processing depth of up to 60 mm from 1.5 kW. The quality of the material is almost any, starting from raw right from under the sawmill from the sawmill. The most suitable for shell cutters is a vertical wood router, see for example. Below is a video in 4 parts:

Video: homemade wood milling machine with shell cutters

Mills with a cylindrical shank (landing, landing) are much more varieties, because. their functionality is wider. But for such a cutter, it will be necessary to grind a spindle nozzle with a Morse taper under the chuck; it is also possible to use ready-made spindle assemblies from a drilling machine.

End mills, e.g. Forstner cutter (pos. 2 in the figure above) is a specialized tool; they choose round holes with a flat bottom in thin boards with a decorative coating that cannot be spoiled. Have you ever hung doors on furniture? The holes for their loops were chosen precisely by the Forstner cutter. The quality of the material is no worse than straight-layered wood of the 1st grade of chamber drying. Required drive power from 150 watts. They work with end mills only on a vertical machine or, with a certain skill, manually.

Note: it’s quite possible to choose a Forstner cutter in a 170 W screwdriver for holes D32 for door hinges in furniture chipboard 16 mm thick, it’s quite possible, I did it myself.

End (finger) cutter, pos. 3, can be threaded into both horizontal and vertical spindles. With end mills, blind grooves are selected (not the entire length of the board) and spikes are cut out for carpentry tenon-groove joints. It is more convenient to work with an end mill on a horizontal machine. On a vertical one, it is possible to choose long grooves (grooves) of a rectangular profile on the faces of boards and beams. Tapered end mills (key 4) are also specialized tools for preparing parts for dovetail joining. Work with conical end mills only on a vertical machine. For those and others, the required drive power to a processing depth of up to 80-100 mm is from 1 kW. The quality of the material is from industrial wood of the 2nd grade of air drying (from the timber exchange).

End shaped (curly) cutters, pos. 5, also a specialized but highly sought-after tool. They are used to make a mold (including on curved edges) and select shaped grooves (decorative grooves) of any configuration in the faces of the boards. Drive power from 1.2-1.5 kW; material quality requirements are the same as for face mills. For edge processing, the shaped cutter can be threaded into both horizontal and vertical spindles; for work on layers only in vertical.

Cone cutters (burrs, pos. 6) can also select shaped grooves and induce molding both on a horizontal and vertical machine, but in fact they are a special tool for copy milling machines. The requirements for material quality are high, as for face mills, but the drive power in the copier can be from 250-300 watts.

And, finally, with a circular cutter (pos. 7) in a vertical milling or drilling machine, large-diameter round holes are cut out in almost any not excessively thick material (including sheet metal). Required drive power per hole D200 in 60 mm thick oak plank approx. 2-2.5 kW.

…and its presentation

Milling can be done in two ways: counter and passing, see fig. below. As for wood, ordinary straight-grained wood (especially of not very high quality air-drying) is milled only along the way, otherwise the cutter can very well split and / or ruffle the workpiece. But in this case, with an excessive feed rate, there is a considerable probability of the workpiece being withdrawn by the cutter and damage to the processing profile. Removing dust, sawdust and chips from the working area (and this is a serious problem) on a vertical milling machine during climb milling is difficult, because. the dust collector (see below) has to be placed in the field of view in front of the cutter and it obscures the working area.

Note: on a horizontal milling machine, there are no problems with the removal of processing waste during climb milling, because dust (sawdust) then fly down, and the dust collector socket can be placed directly on the machine plate (see pos. 2 in the figure at the beginning and further).

Up milling gives the best accuracy and cleanliness of processing, but only on sufficiently high-quality and homogeneous materials. From wood - on solid small-layer wood of chamber drying. At the same time, the removal of processing waste on a vertical milling machine is facilitated, but on a horizontal one it is difficult - dust and sawdust fly up. The removal of the workpiece is almost unbelievable, but there is a danger of biting it with a cutter. A behavioral profile can often be modified; bitten and broken workpiece unconditional marriage.

Motor

Based on the foregoing, it is optimal to do a do-it-yourself milling machine with a drive with a power of 1.5-2 kW. The reason is that motors up to such power are produced, incl. asynchronous with capacitor start for voltage 220 V 50 Hz. They can be plugged into a regular household outlet, and switching the direction of rotation is a child's task for an amateur electrician; rotation speed is 700-2850 rpm, which is suitable for milling. It is also possible to use an electric motor of the same type from a washing machine; in this case, it becomes possible to switch the rotation speed (there are different windings for this in asynchronous washing machine motors). A 2 kW motor will provide a processing depth of up to 80-100 mm; if you need a larger one, you will have to put a three-phase motor at 380 V 50 Hz from 3 kW into the machine, see for example. video clip:

Video: homemade vertical milling machine for wood

Note: collector electric motors for 1.5-2 kW 220 V 50/60 Hz (for example, from another washing machine or vacuum cleaner) are not suitable for driving a milling machine - due to their excessively soft external characteristics, the cutter can get stuck in wood, tear and shaggy it (if damp).

What is the best wood router

Now we know enough to choose the horizontal or vertical axis of rotation of the machine spindle. Comparative performance characteristics of horizontal and vertical milling machines for wood are summarized in the table:

Horizontal or vertical?

From the data in Table. it follows that it makes sense to do a horizontal wood router on your own if you are faced with the need for mass simple processing of lumber from raw materials of low quality. Not necessarily for sale; perhaps for cladding with wood siding or clapboard of your house. The savings will be such that it is just right to buy a branded router, but a normal developer does not have extra money. Or, let's say, still for sale, if you are an individual entrepreneur with a sawmill and a circular saw. Compare market prices for unedged and tongue-and-groove boards, calculate the profitability - is the game worth the candle?

Details for the most complex module of a horizontal wood router - a spindle assembly - will be made by any skilled turner similarly to the same circular saw assembly; structurally, they are the same (see the drawings in the figure; plain bearings are highlighted in red).

Cabinet, dust collector and base plate are the same as for the vertical machine (see below). The plate is even simpler - no cutout is needed to hang the motor with vibration damping. Own vibrations of a horizontal milling cutter are an order of magnitude smaller than those of a vertical one. The transmission from the motor to the spindle further reduces them, and pulleys or sprockets for it can be found in their own trash or in the iron market. In a quite decent horizontal milling machine for wood, you can also convert a cash circular saw, see for example. video:

Video: milling machine from circular / planer

Making vertical

A vertical wood milling machine has a lot of great functionality and provides a better quality of material processing than a horizontal one. It is vertical milling machines that are built most of all by home-made amateurs. However, the problem of dealing with vibrations in a vertical milling machine is much more acute. If in a horizontal milling cutter vibrations through the sole of the spindle assembly are given preference. down and are effectively damped, re-reflecting in the thickness of the material, then in a vertical machine the elastic waves in the machine plate propagate mainly to the sides. In this case, their inertia and the occurrence of standing waves with antinodes (foci) of such a magnitude that the workpiece is thrown away from the cutter are possible. Therefore, one of the main tasks of designing a homemade router is to suppress machine vibrations.

Structural scheme

The least susceptible to vibration are vertical milling machines with a lower drive of a free (fixed only from below) cutter. The working body is mounted directly on the motor shaft. The entire drive is made as vibration-resistant as possible. Under the influence of the beats of the cutter on the inhomogeneities of the workpiece, the drive staggers, swaying. At the same time, a noticeable transverse (vertical) component appears in the elastic waves, which is effectively absorbed by the frame, and a heavy motor with a massive, rapidly rotating rotor plays the role of an inertial absorber of mechanical vibrations.

The device of industrial and home-made home vertical milling machines for wood is shown in the figure:

Their main difference is in the folding (lifting) stop 7. Since drives of 5 kW or more with high-performance milling cutters are not used in amateur designs, the folding stop is replaced by a lifting stop that prevents the workpiece from being extruded upwards from the cutter. Also, for an amateur machine, an adapter adapter with a Morse cone on the motor shaft is machined to order, the same as for a home-made drilling machine. A standard clamping chuck for a cylindrical shank is mounted on the cone. In this version, it is also possible to use shell cutters: adapters for them with a cylindrical shank are commercially available or are included in the set of cutters. The most important structural components of such a machine are:

1. Base plate - the main damper of longitudinal (horizontal) elastic waves in the machine;
2. Vibration-damping drive board;
3. Comb stops (emphasis) - dampen vertical vibrations of the workpiece;
4. Static side stop - ensures the correct feed of the workpiece, and in a home-made machine also some adjustment of the cutter exit (horizontal processing depth);
5. Dust collector - removes processing waste into a dust collector.

The latter is absolutely necessary when milling, because. wood dust, sawdust and shavings, the cutter gives several times more than they are formed during sawing. The base plate is most often made integral with the vibration damping suspension of the drive. The curbstone (bed) can be any, if only the plate with the rest of the parts did not crash down.

Drive plate and hanger

The window (opening) for hanging the drive from the machine plate is most often cut out square (see the figure on the right), so it’s easier at home. But the machine in operation will tremble much less if the drive window is made round. In any case, the motor must not directly touch the plate (again, see the figure on the right), otherwise, instead of damping the vibrations, they will be strengthened.

The best materials for the plate and drive board are fibrous laminates: textolite, fiberglass with a thickness of 12-15 mm; the thicker the better. Hardboard and other massive plastics are less suitable: they dampen vibrations well, but over time they warp from heating by the motor and the machine loses accuracy. Getinaks and other thermosetting laminates are unsuitable: they exfoliate very quickly due to vibrations.

However, making the whole plate whole is both impossible and impractical: it is difficult, expensive, the vibrations of the drive itself will be freely transmitted to the plate. Only the motor board needs to be made of plastic, and the plate - from impregnated with a vibration-absorbing compound and re-glued plywood, and low-grade construction and packaging will do. It is necessary to re-glue the slab from at least 5 sheets so that the fibers of the outer layers of the neighboring ones are oriented mutually perpendicular.

The scheme for cutting a standard plywood sheet 1550x1550x4 mm into sheets for the base plate of a wood milling machine is given on the left in fig. Sheets for the plate of a horizontal router are cut out without windows for the motor, but with a dust collector socket (see above and below). Plate size up to 750x500 mm. A flash of 50 mm along the contour of the sheet is needed to cut off low-quality material at the edges.

At first, the sheet is abundantly impregnated 2-3 times on each side with building eco-primer (water-polymer emulsion), it perfectly dampens vibrations. The interval between impregnations is at least 3.5 hours. Then the sheet is cut out, a plastic film is spread on the floor (not PVC, it will stick!). Sheet No. 1 is placed on the film and with a brush (better - with a “shaggy” paint roller) a thin even layer of mounting (reinforced) PVA is applied to it; the same layer - on the adjacent side of sheet No. 2. The brush (roller and its tray) immediately after applying the glue is thrown into a bucket of water, and after all the gluing is completed, it is washed in water.

Before folding, the sheets are kept for 15-20 minutes (or according to the instructions on the adhesive package), folded and adjusted without separating them so that the edges of the drive window meet exactly. Then, sheets No. 3, 4 and 5 are glued in the same way. The whole package is covered with a film and loaded over the entire area with a dispersed load of 30-40 kg (it is best to pile more books or magazine binders). Dry for at least 3 days at room temperature: the mounting PVA is durable, its adhesive layer is viscous and perfectly absorbs vibrations, but it takes a long time to dry to full strength.

The design of the motor suspension is shown in the section on the right in fig. Between the motor board and the machine plate, you need to leave a gap of 0.5-1 mm. It is not necessary to clean sawdust from it: they will be an additional side vibration-damping cushion. It is advisable to find a motor with mounting paws protruding beyond the body size: then it will be possible to set (not quickly) the cutter extension upwards. To install the cutter in height, the motor mounting screws are taken long, and the takeaway itself is exposed, putting on them, between the rubber suspension cushion and the motor housing, steel washers alternately with gaskets from the same chambered truck rubber.

The plate with a suspension is checked for workmanship with a pencil. If you put it sticking out 5 cm from the edge of the suspension board, then with the engine running at idle, the pencil should not fall.

Stop and dust collector

A drawing of a simple but good static side stop with a dust collector socket, see the following. rice. Material - re-glued plywood from the same sheet. Holes for comb and lifting stops are drilled in 3-5 pieces: the first 50 mm from the edges of the cutout for the cutter (rectangular); the rest after 25-30 mm. The position of the stops is selected depending on the size of the workpiece and the quality of its material. Lateral removal of the cutter within a small range is regulated by turning the stop and fixing it with a clamp.

dust collector

Since there is no industrial pneumatic system with air extraction at home, milling dust has to be sucked off with a household vacuum cleaner. If you connect it directly to the nozzle of the dust collector, the necessary expensive household appliance will soon fail. An expensive, well-cleaning vacuum cleaner with a hydraulic trap, most likely immediately. So, in addition to the dust collector, a homemade wood router also needs a dust collector, through which the vacuum cleaner is connected.

The dust collector device for the milling machine is shown in fig. on right. Capacity - round in plan from 10-15 liters (preferably from 20 liters). The ideal option is a household bucket with a tight lid, planted on a seal and equipped with cap latches (both are quite doable with your own hands).

The inlet pipe is approx. 20 mm (on the inside). Its end is beveled 45 degrees and rotated 20-30 degrees outward; is installed 15-20 mm from the side of the vessel (counting from the outer edge of the nozzle). Exhaust outlet wider, approx. 30 mm on the inside; installed exactly along the vertical axis of the container. Its selective end is narrowed to 15-20 mm (the taper is not critical). Everything together works like a cyclone, and the air goes into the vacuum cleaner clean enough not to spoil the device.

Note: An additional advantage of the dust collector is that the dust from it is an excellent filler for high-quality wood putty. For her, the dust is mixed with PVA (3-4): 1 by volume.

Comb

A drawing of a comb stop of a wood milling machine is given on the next. rice. Material - hard elastic small-layer wood (oak, beech, walnut) without defects - streaks, rot, slant, knots - 20 mm thick. Combs need a pair, right and left, so that the workpiece can be fed from either side.

The first comb tooth along the workpiece (pay attention!) is shortened by 3 mm. It does not directly contact the workpiece, but serves as a rebound spring for the entire ridge. Without it, the comb can pinch on the workpiece and break.

Fastening combs to the side stop - with a bolt with a wing nut through a longitudinal groove (slotted hole in the figure); fixation with a non-working self-tapping screw to the same stop through the hole D7. In the working position, the comb is placed so that it touches the workpiece with all teeth except the first, and is fixed with a lamb.

Making a copy cutter

Copying on wood by milling a workpiece is a very delicate matter. The principle of 2- and 3-coordinate (2D and 3D) copying is the same: the copier probe outlines the contour of a flat sample (template) or drives along the surface of a volumetric one. The cutter of the milling head exactly repeats the movements of the probe, removing excess wood from the workpiece. You need to drive the probe carefully and slowly, sensitively feeling the resistance of the material: the workpiece is not out of thin air. It is better to start mastering wood copying with 2D. In this way, it is already possible to make good money: flat decorative parts with a moulding, induced on a router, are in good demand, and are made quite quickly. But for both 2D and 3D copying, you will need a special milling head.

Head

Copy milling heads are commercially available separately, but are expensive. You can replace the branded head with a drill without an impact mechanism: "grooving" drills are unsuitable for copying due to the design features of the spindle assembly. To begin with, any drill or screwdriver will do, but it is better to purchase a tool with increased accuracy. Such a drill is more expensive than a conventional one, but much cheaper than a milling head, and in terms of work quality it is not inferior to it. It is easy to recognize an accurate drill by its appearance: on the neck of its body there is a metal collar for installation in the bed of a drilling machine under a drill.

2D

For 2D copying on wood, machines with a pantograph, desktop and hinged, are used. It is easier to make a desktop pantograph machine with your own hands, but it will be difficult to achieve copying accuracy better than 1 mm. On a machine with a hinged pantograph, you can literally draw and leave autographs on the workpiece.

The device of 2D copy-milling machines for wood is shown in Fig: on the left of the desktop; on the right with a hinged pantograph. The last in essence engraving machine. The probe here and there is needle-shaped with a tip radius of approx. 0.5 mm (in engraving up to 0.1 mm or less). Mill cone conical; by setting it to a different offset in the head chuck, the width and depth of the selected groove are adjusted.

Do you need a scale?

Drawing and drawing pantographs are made scaling (see Fig.). Wood copying is usually done on a scale of 1:1. The fact is that due to the resistance of the material, the copying error on wood increases greatly due to backlash in the hinges; a professional engraving machine is a complex precision expensive unit. But if the copy pantograph is set to a 1:1 scale, an interesting phenomenon is observed: the beatings in the hinges seem to compensate each other, and the total error due to backlash increases slightly.

3D

3-axis milling and copying machines (duplicarvers) are quite active in the tool market despite high prices. On a duplicarver, you can make copies of a three-dimensional sample (not necessarily wooden; for example, stucco), which, in the opinion of the average consumer, are not inferior to the original in terms of artistic merit.

The device of the factory duplicarver is shown on the left in fig. Its copier (milling cutter + probe) has 4 degrees of freedom: swing up and down, back and forth, turn in a vertical plane, move left and right. It would be possible to do without an “extra” degree of freedom in comparison with the number of geometric dimensions of the copied figure if the movements of the copier along all three axes were rectilinear (as in CNC machines), but this is technically difficult and expensive. The same degrees of freedom can be implemented in a different kinematic scheme used in most homemade duplicarvers (center in the figure).

Experienced copiers work with a cylindrical probe and cutter. At the same time, the template is surrounded by the very edge of the probe (the annular face of its lower end); it turns out to be working and acc. cutter edge. The sample and the workpiece are fixed in exactly the same position on exactly the same supports. In the process of work, they have to be laid on their side and turned upside down, each time fixing the stands in a precisely defined position relative to each other. In this way it is indeed possible to exactly copy the complexity figure as on the left in fig.

It is better for beginner copiers to learn business on less complex samples, using a spherical probe and cutter, on the right in fig. The probe needs to be sharpened to order. "Micron" precision is not required; instead of a sphere, a drop can hang at the end of the probe. But the tip of the probe must be sanded at home with fine sandpaper and polished with felt or leather with alcohol and GOI paste. The diameter of the cutter is taken equal to the diameter of the probe tip, otherwise the contours on the left and right (top and bottom) will not converge. The handle of the probe is also better turned from pear-shaped wood; with a probe from a screwdriver with a ribbed plastic handle, the “recoil” of the workpiece material feels much worse.

Errors in design

There are three main mistakes in the designs of homemade duplicarvers. The first is insufficient balancing of the mechanism. The copier within the working area should move easily and freeze from the position in which it was left. The second is a copier on a rod instead of a U-shaped frame, pos. And in fig. The torsional rigidity of the rod is an order of magnitude (ki) less than the frame; resp. the error of copying also increases. The third is a “hanging” horizontal copier bar, pos. B; here the insufficient rigidity of the bar free at one end for bending is already affecting.

1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

You have to work with wood in everyday life quite often. For the simplest cutting of samples, any owner always has a saw at hand. But the owner of a residential building, with a personal plot, often, when arranging outbuildings, has to perform more complex operations than simple sawing, related to the selection of material.

A wood milling machine for an owner who loves (and knows how) to do everything with his own hands will never be superfluous. How to assemble it, what to consider when designing, is described in this article.

To a person who is going to assemble a milling cutter himself, to explain elementary things - what sizes bolts (screws) need to be selected, that under the fasteners it is necessary to put not only washers, but also a grower (vibration!), Dimensions (section) of pipes and the like - it makes no sense. But to note the general features of the assembly, “to arm with some ideas” - this is quite enough to make a milling machine designed to work with any kind of workpiece.

Desktop

This design is stationary. The possibilities for processing samples with different dimensions depend on its strength and dimensions.

bed

Its linear parameters are selected depending on the specific use of the machine and are determined individually, so it makes no sense to give specific recommendations on dimensions. The material for it can be metal (for example, a large corner, a pipe), wood (bars of sufficient cross section).

What to consider when installing

• When designing a machine, it is desirable to plan the installation of adjustable supports. This will not only provide additional convenience in working with various samples, but also allow you to level the working surface on any, even uneven, base (for example, soil). Based on this, it is more expedient to assemble the frame from metal.
• If it is mounted from a pipe, then it is better to use blanks with a rectangular profile. It will be much faster and easier to assemble such a structure, securely connect all its components.

tabletop

It is better to mount it from plates (for example, chipboard, OSV and the like) or boards. Metal in this case is not suitable. Thick sheets will significantly weight the entire structure, and thin sheets will vibrate during operation.

Conclusion - each master, with independent design, assembles a desktop “for himself”. Therefore, all diagrams, drawings posted on thematic sites should be regarded only as a kind of hints, and not a direct "guide to action."

Machine engine

Power, kWt)

• 0.5 - such a machine will allow you to perform only the simplest actions: removing the top layer, grinding, selecting grooves, grooves, and the like.
• 1 - 1.5 - deep processing of wood is possible, however, the duration of continuous technological operations will depend on the species and quality of wood drying.
• 2 - 2.5 - a machine with such a drive is considered universal, since any cutters can be installed on it, both in configuration and in size. This option is more suitable for people who work with wood at a professional level. To perform simple operations, which is what you most often have to do in everyday life, it is hardly worth assembling a unit of such power.

Number of revolutions (rpm)

The higher this value of the engine, the more “clean” the material will be processed. If the cutter hits a problem area (for example, a knot), then at a high speed of rotation this will not lead to a failure. Based on this, you should choose the engine model.

Power supply (number of phases and voltage)

In the private sector, one should focus on 1ph / 220v. When choosing a 3-ph motor, you should pay attention to how its windings are turned on. Alteration from "star" to "triangle" (or vice versa) often causes a decrease in efficiency, sometimes by half.

Machine base plate

It is also called mounting, as it is attached to it. For its manufacture, it is better to take sheet metal, fiberglass, getinaks. The thickness of the composite samples is selected based on their dimensions - it must provide the required structural strength (taking into account vibration).

Elements for fixing workpieces

Clamping parts are executed differently. Reliable fastening of wooden samples can be provided with clamps located on the sides of the tabletop. They can be installed both removable and fixed (welded to the frame). Although the latter option is less convenient to use.

You can do it differently. Put several clamping devices along the tabletop, and fix parts of various sizes with metal strips, which, in turn, are pressed with clamps. There are enough options, and ingenuity will tell you exactly how to organize a solid fastening of workpieces on the desktop.

Machine safety elements

• Button (tumbler) for emergency stop of the engine.
• Screen around the work area.

Additionally:

• Backlight.
• Dust collector.

The figure shows a diagram of a simple milling cutter based on an electric / drill:

Naturally, the power of such a machine is small, but it is quite suitable, for example, for the manufacture of figured samples from thin boards, plywood. Those who are engaged in artistic cutting of wood can appreciate the convenience of processing it with the help of such a home-made installation.

From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text outlines a step-by-step technology for creating a tool: an analysis of the design features of the device and all the components necessary for its installation, drawings with dimensions and detailed descriptions that will help you create each of these elements and put them together.

Wood milling machines can have various purposes. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Buying a professional tool is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, such a router is used in small furniture workshops.

Milling cutters are usually used to process wood along a straight or curved contour. The cutting head, which performs rotational movements, acts as a working element in the design. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many varieties of milling cutters, each of which has its own design features.

The most popular types of devices:

• standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
• single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
• copy milling machines with a spindle having an upper placement;
• copy structures with a spindle having a horizontal placement (the tool is designed for processing propellers made of wood).

Note! In all of the listed designs, except for the last one, the material is fed manually.

Milling machine device: single-spindle designs

The design of a single-spindle machine includes a horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed to fix guide rulers. It is mounted on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are sleds that move along the guides. They have a spindle on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element is another spindle - plug-in. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.

The slide with the spindle can be raised if necessary. For this, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. The belt drive allows the spindle to be driven. Moreover, a counter-drive, motor or motor shaft can be used for this.

To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the nuances. In some cases, you can not do without additional reinforcement of the spindle. Such a need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces of great height or serious loads act on the part. To do this, you need to install and fix the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is desirable to use a guide ring or ruler.

Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of woodwork with your own hands. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow you to get a higher quality of processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by cutting the wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. An instrument with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.

The device of a home-made copier for wood with an upper spindle

These devices are used to perform copying work. It does not require high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling to create openwork products.

The copier is able to replace three tools at once:

1. Frazier.
2. Drilling machine.
3. Jigsaw.

Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. The spindle develops a large number of revolutions, so that the machined surface is very clean.

Homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:

• boss calibration;
• production of openwork frames;
• elaboration of the walls of the ribs, etc.

As a basis for this design, a bed made of cast iron is used. Its upper part is curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.

Note! The bed performs the function of a link on which all the elements of a home-made wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.

The engine is mounted on rails. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is fixed. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.

In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move along the guides vertically using a handwheel. There are other options for making a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands, a drawing of this design involves the vertical movement of the table also in the process of work by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology

The easiest way to make a tool yourself at home is to construct a lathe or milling machine from a drill or an electric motor taken from another tool. This process is not so complicated, so every master is able to cope with its implementation. This will require an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and improvised materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, some skills are required to make a lathe.

The following elements are required for the construction of the machine:

• metal frame;
• electric motor;
• handyman;
• back grandma.

It does not hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate in size and correctly manufacture all structural elements for its subsequent assembly.

How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor

First you need to prepare the shaft of the electric motor. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it, and a threaded steel center is also suitable. The installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. For the manufacture of the frame, you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. The motor is attached to the frame with a bolted connection.

Note! The central part of the tailstock must necessarily coincide with the middle of the motor shaft.

At the next stage in the manufacture of a home-made machine with your own hands, the headstock is assembled. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe is attached to it, designed for the spindle. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. Previously, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is indicated. After that, the headstock is installed on the bed. On the top rack, which is connected to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to fix the tube by welding.

To make a handpiece, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. Also, this element must have a hole that will be used to secure the reference ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the handpiece rod is inserted into it.

The motor rotor, on which the faceplate is fixed, will be used as the headstock spindle. It needs to make several holes. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are designed to fix the part with screws.

How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands

Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for the choice of designs and an overview of the best models.

The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:

• countertops;
• beds;
• spindle
• parallel stop;
• feed sled;
• vacuum cleaner.

Useful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with lower performance will not be able to process hardwood blanks.

Selection of materials for the manufacture of a woodworking machine with your own hands

In order for the bed to be able to withstand high dynamic loads, it is desirable to use metal as a material for its manufacture. The most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.

The choice of such materials allows you to create a design without using a welding machine. All elements are connected by bolts. The design is collapsible, which facilitates its transfer and transportation. In addition, using the appropriate drawing of the milling table, you can create adjustable legs with your own hands. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.

For the manufacture of countertops, the following materials are suitable:

• multilayer plywood sheets;
• planed board;
• MDF, OSB or chipboard.

The tabletop must have a smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to exclude all factors that can cause scratches during processing of workpieces.

When making a table for a router with your own hands, a flat surface can be achieved in several ways:

• finishing with plastic;
• careful adjustment and grinding of planed boards;
• metal finishing.

To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Among the disadvantages is the high noise level. The commutator motor is more accessible, but its brushes wear out faster.

How to make do-it-yourself router bits

Homemade wood cutters are able to effectively process wood, however, when in contact with hard materials, the cutting elements quickly become dull. Therefore, the range of application of such parts is significantly limited.

To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical blank and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After that, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. From the cut part of the workpiece, you need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the processed section of the cutter a rectangular shape. To do this, cut off its lower part. The thickness of the resulting working area should be 2-5 mm.

Useful advice! To cut a metal workpiece for a cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. The cutting edge can be made with .

1. It is desirable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10 °. A sharper edge will cut much worse and quickly lose sharpness.
2. Using an angle grinder equipped with metal discs, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the necessary configuration. For these purposes, diamond-coated needle files are also suitable.
3. If the cutter has a complex configuration, you can flatten or bend it.

How to make a milling machine with your own hands

The simplest milling machine can be made in the same way as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the structure.

In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if necessary.

In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the processed workpieces is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, you can make a special cartridge, although in this case it will not be possible to avoid some restrictions.

The back center, which will be used to hold long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tools are similar in many ways. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.

Do-it-yourself table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings

There are several design options that can be used to install a desktop CNC router. Tables can be fixed or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the surface of the table for the use of a router.

Most often, craftsmen prefer stationary structures with a metal frame. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.

Note! When making a table for a manual router with your own hands, you must definitely take into account the height of the person who will work on it.

The list of necessary tools and materials includes:

• metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
• aluminum guides;
• axis for fixing the router;
• putty, as well as priming and coloring compositions;
• self-tapping screws;
• furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
• hex adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
• Finnish laminated plywood with moisture resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
• material for the manufacture of a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
• drill and a set of drills;
• screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
• welding machine;
• accessories (brushes, rags, spatula).

Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of the milling table with your own hands, video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the net, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.

Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly

A CNC milling cutter differs from a conventional tool by the presence of a program that controls its operation. In many videos, home-made machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular section, which is fixed on rails. The CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints, it is better to fix it with bolts.

The fact is that the welds are vulnerable to vibration, due to which, over time, the frame will undergo gradual destruction. As a result of changing the geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and quality of processing. It is desirable that the drawing of the table provides for the possibility of moving the tool vertically. For these purposes, a screw drive is suitable. The rotational movement will be transmitted by means of a toothed belt.

The vertical axis is the most important structural element. For its manufacture, you can use an aluminum plate. At the same time, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.

Useful advice! Using a muffle furnace, it is possible to cast a vertical axis from aluminum, taking into account the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper type electric motors. They are installed behind the vertical axis directly on the body. One motor will control the horizontal movement of the milling head, the other will control the vertical movement. Then you need to proceed to the installation of the remaining components of the structure.

The rotational movement will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before connecting software control to the finished router, it is imperative to check its performance and, if there are shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble the machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.

Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

To create a CNC milling machine at home, it is imperative to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. To create a homemade machine, the electric motors present in a dot matrix printer are ideal. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to engines, steel rods will be required.

A dot matrix printer has only a couple of motors, but three are required to create a router. Therefore, several old printing devices will be required. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. This increases the functionality of the tool.

Other engine parameters are also important:

• degree of rotation per step;
• winding resistance;
• voltage level.

To assemble the drive, you will need a stud and nut. The size of these parts is selected according to the drawing. To fix the motor shaft and the stud, you can use a thick rubber winding from an electrical cable. A nylon sleeve is suitable as a retainer, a screw should be inserted into it. As an auxiliary tool, you can use a drill and a file.

The instrument will be controlled by the software. An obligatory element of the machine is the LPT port, which provides the connection of the control system to the router through electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the technological operations performed. Therefore, the choice of details should be approached thoroughly. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.

How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices

If almost any craftsman can handle the manufacture of a manual router and a stationary table, then assembling a CNC machine will seem an impossible task for many. Moreover, home-made designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-made tool can offer.

Useful advice! If you plan to use a router for complex woodworking, it is better to give preference to factory designs that are accurately calibrated and have many functions.

Prices for them vary depending on the functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.

Average prices for factory-made CNC milling machines:

Machine name	Table length, mm	price, rub.
LTT-K0609 (LTT-K6090A)	900	228970
WoodTec MH-6090		246780
LTT-P6090		329120
R.J.1212	1300	317000
WoodTec MH-1212		347350
RUIJIE RJ 1200		399200
WoodTec MH 1325	2500	496350
WoodTec MH-1625		540115
WoodTec VH-1625		669275
RJ 2040	3000	1056750
WoodTec VH-2030		1020935
WoodTec VH-2040		1136000

Assembling a machine with software is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without a suitable drawing and the necessary details. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from legacy equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.

Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instruction

How to make a wood milling machine? To make various wood or metal products at home, to surprise your friends and acquaintances with your skill, you should make a universal wood milling machine with your own hands.

Why make a machine if it's easier to buy a ready-made one in a store? The thing is that a milling machine with many functions is expensive, and some of them will not be needed on the farm.

A self-made will include all the nuances and connections of personal choice. And improvised materials are suitable for manufacturing, the machine will come out inexpensively.

First of all, it is necessary to decide for what purposes the equipment will be used. The ideal solution is to prepare a drawing in advance.

On the diagram, it is necessary to notice the location of the switches, indicate where the shaft and additional devices will be located. This is done so that during the work there is already a ready-made scheme of phased actions.

And also thanks to the drawing, the builder will see in which place it is better to fix all the components so that it is convenient and functional.

All materials must be prepared in advance:

• engine, if it is useful in the manufacture;
• boards;
• plywood;
• nuts;
• bolts.

Then all the work will take a little time, but in the near future the masters can use the mini-machine for its intended purpose.

Drill machine

The most simple form, but has its own nuances. A homemade milling machine for metal or wood from a conventional drill does not allow you to accurately adhere to the necessary processing.

The mechanism of the machine:

• first you need to prepare a workpiece, it will hold the future mini-machine in one position;
• it is necessary to install a drill cutter;
• squeeze your head.
• from the board it is necessary to prepare a clamp, it is attached to the limiter. If you rest the limiter, then the router will move along one line, which will determine the location of the groove.

Do-it-yourself vertical-horizontal milling machine

Stationary device

A do-it-yourself stationary home-made wood milling machine for assembly is no different from the factory equipment. For assembly you will need:

• - the owner selects the size of the table for the milling machine, depending on his needs. Fasteners should be installed on it, which indicates the size of the movement of the cutter.
• The bed is the main part of the equipment where the countertop, cutter is fixed. Reliable and durable materials are selected.
• Cutter - improvised materials are suitable, for example, the same drill, and you can also do it yourself from an electric motor and a spindle.

Decide before assembling a wood milling machine in which plane you will process wood: vertically or horizontally. The installation of all spare parts depends on this, it should be considered using the example of vertical processing:

• For the preparation of the bed, there is no need in the drawing. But preference should be given to a frame with metal corners, it must be fixed with chipboard bolts.
• You should decide on the place where the shaft of the milling equipment will come out. Prepare a hole, but the shaft must be smaller than the hole.
• It is necessary to fix the grinder using clamps, they should be secured in advance with a bolt.
• It is necessary to pick up cutters - they must resemble a disk for installation on a shaft. Fasten with a nut.
• If keyway cutters are used for milling, an adapter should be prepared.

An important condition is the installation of guide elements on the table. The workpiece will move along them; for convenience, the guides are made of wood. This material allows you to create a different direction, these products can be easily removed by the craftsman, but they must be bolted during work.

If we compare a stationary device with a machine tool from a drill, then the first option wins significantly, since the accuracy of the work process is at the highest level. But it is more difficult to build it with your own hands from improvised materials.

But after installing all the equipment, the craftsmen can say with accuracy that a machine made by themselves will diligently serve for several years.

The device from a drill also has the advantage of being easy to make, but its long-term use cannot be accurately predicted.

Metal processing

For your own purposes, it is easy to make a do-it-yourself milling machine for metal. By adhering to the assembly rules, specialists can quickly build high-quality equipment, it will be beautiful in appearance, of high quality and will last a long time. Consider the assembly instructions:

• It is necessary to make a cover for the future machine. As a material of manufacture, plywood should be preferred. To prepare the cover, it is necessary to cut out several sections of certain sizes from plywood, they will fit the future equipment. The final stage: fastening the blanks together.
• Installation of fasteners, installation of the router itself and additional parts of the machine - all work must be done carefully. Rushing won't do anyone any good.
• Assembling the table and attaching the mounting plate to it - for this, a small recess is made on the prepared table. The contours must fully comply with the plate. The mounting plate is secured with adhesive tape.
• Gaskets - they are installed along the contour of the plate, you need to press them. Suitable for these purposes.
• Copy milling cutter - it must be installed in bearing assemblies.
• Holes will be needed on the desktop, they are made with an ordinary drill.
• The collection of the base - everything is done with precision according to the prepared drawing.

The structure of the milling machine

rules

In order for a home-made wood milling machine to last a long time and have a perfect look, you must follow a few rules during assembly:

• Homemade wood products must be thoroughly sanded and treated with a special oil impregnation. This will prevent the finished equipment from rotting and external factors.
• All switches and the management system is done in an accessible place, this is done for personal convenience.
• Particular attention should be paid to the nozzle, it is responsible for collecting small chips during the operation of the cutter.
• Do-it-yourself milling machine must be assembled, carefully following the instructions.

Subject to simple rules, a home-made milling machine for wood with your own hands or for metal will last a long time.