From what to build an extension to a wooden house. Extension to the house: organizational issues, features, technical solutions and methods of construction

Sometimes it becomes necessary to modify your home. The goals are different - expand the kitchen, attach a veranda, equip a technical room or an additional living room. Then the question arises for the owner of the house. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is an extension to the house with your own hands. It's cheaper than building a whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years that not everyone can afford. All in all, it might not be very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house that is overgrown with properly made outbuildings becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational moments

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Glazed veranda

With any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleaned of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

A drainage system is required under the building. To do this, the earth is compacted, and a slope is made at this place for water flow.

Foundation

The base for the construction of the structure is tape and columnar. Each has its own qualities. To select the most suitable, you must first study each.

Strip foundation

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Strip foundation

This foundation is done in the following order:

• The rope is used to mark and trace the site for construction. It is stretched and fixed. According to this outline, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and 10-15 cm wider than the wall
• The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is carefully compacted. Next comes the crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. Broken bricks are allowed
• The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It goes 40-50 cm above the ground. It closes the foundation from the inside, and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation to its full height.
• The concrete mortar should consist of cement with gravel. They fill 1/3 of the height of the trench. This layer must be completely dry. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
• Having installed the formwork, form the base. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed from above. The film must not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air cavities inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
• Upon completion of the pour, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. Every day it is sprinkled with water. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
• It is recommended that the foundation be additionally covered with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. These are liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material. Then they start building walls.
• The internal space of this foundation is equipped with various options. For example, using a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and logs, with the installation of a wooden floor in the future

Column Foundation

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Column Foundation

This type of foundation is built of brick or concrete. Possibly both materials. This basis is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with further planning for the installation of boardwalk.

The foundation is carried out in the following order:

• First, the marking of the selected site for construction is also applied.
• Pillars should be placed 1.5 m apart. For them, pits are dug 50x50 cm in size and 50-60 cm deep. The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by approximately 10 cm on each side
• Further, the bottom of the pits is reinforced with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being laid
• A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It must completely freeze. After that, brickwork is done
• For concrete pillars, reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is laid inside the formwork and fixed from above.
• The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry.
• The top of the post is leveled and sprinkled every day with water until the concrete is completely dry.
• After that, the formwork is removed. With the help of warm bituminous mastic, the poles are pasted over with roofing material
• The void around the pillars is covered with earth with gravel. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
• Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. This will be the waterproofing protection of the wooden bars. They will be mounted on top.

Floor bases

Floors made of wood and concrete are laid on the strip foundation. The tree is also laid for a columnar foundation without lintels.

concrete base

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concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on a strip foundation, work is carried out in stages according to a certain technology:

• At the beginning, the earth is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
• The bottom is filled with 10 cm sand. It packs up well. Then crushed stone or expanded clay is laid in 15-20 cm. The second material makes the screed warm
• Everything is well leveled and the reinforcing grate is laid. A system of beacons is installed on it at a horizontal level. Some rooms require a sloped surface. For example, in a bathroom or on an outdoor terrace, water from the floor must flow freely to the drainage system.
• The next step is pouring cement and leveling. After a day, it is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap. This will make it more uniform, durable
• When the structure is ready, a floor covering or a wooden floor can be laid on a concrete base.

Wooden beam base

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Wooden beam base

• To make the floors durable, choose high-quality crossbars.
• Wooden bars, 15x10 cm thick in cross section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing felt substrate.
• They are attached to concrete using through joints or corners.
• The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All this will hold securely.

Wall materials

Any materials for the construction of an additional annex are used. The walls are built of brick, frame, foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has a good combination with the main house.

It will not be difficult to repeat the exterior decoration of the house. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

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The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

• construction is fast, in a matter of months
• due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
• you can do it yourself
• at an inexpensive price

The foundations of the house and self-building are made on the same level. Accession should not be capital, because. the extension will sag after a while. A deformation seam is made. Frame structures do not shrink vertically, which is very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and attached to pre-assembled coronal rungs. The bars can be attached separately. But it will be easier to assemble all the parts together with special fasteners, and then install them as an assembly.

To attach the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Here you need to be precise. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately upholstered.

The upper beam along the house is attached to the main wall with anchor bolts. Insulate the walls after installing the roof.

brick walls

Brick walls require a perfectly flat foundation surface. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they must be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks during shrinkage of self-building.

For the most part, brick structures are attached to the house from the same material. It is tied with a metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in the main wall at 2/3 of the depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and end up in the seams of the masonry. It is important to take the rods are not thick. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks under the reinforcement.

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A brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It is placed in through-drilled holes. Transverse stoppers are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull the cord along the future wall. A plumb line checks vertically.

The wall thickness will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, a brick is laid in 1-2 layers. On a terrace or outbuilding, a layer of half a brick will suffice.

Upon completion, the brick walls are surrounded by concrete from above. To do this, set the form in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is concreted. When the mortar hardens, the form is removed and the roofing begins to be installed.

Laying brick walls is not easy, as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option would be to entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from other material.

Extension from foam blocks

Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities, among building materials:

• No special skills are required to work. Construction is possible on difficult ground
• Due to the fact that the blocks are large and light, it takes less time and effort to assemble, compared to laying bricks or timber
• The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and meets all fire safety standards. It also has low thermal conductivity and “breathes” well, which creates an optimal indoor climate.
• Inexpensive, easy to assemble and easy to drill
• An extension of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a long service life.

• Additional protection is required, as the material soon loses thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity

Almost finished extension of concrete blocks

The construction of foam concrete obliges the implementation of a strict sequence of stages:

• It is necessary to start laying from the corner points
• From below, the blocks are moistened to increase the hitch. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
• The quality of the assembly is affected by the horizontality and verticality of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected with mortar
• An adhesive composition is used between masonry. Connections are obtained no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, "cold bridges"
• The composition is prepared, strictly following the rules. It is applied on top and on the sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
• Grinding grater levels the horizontalness of each row. The garbage that is formed must be carefully swept away
• The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will bind the structure and prevent cracking. Why cuts are made with a circular saw 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then recesses are knocked out with a hammer and a chisel. They need to be cleaned up. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive.

For window and door openings, lintels with a width of not more than 1.75 m are installed. They are made using formwork - removable or fixed. For large openings, the strength of foam concrete is not designed. It is better then to choose a cinder block or silicate brick. This is a more secure base. The height of the jumper will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

For a removable form, metal structures of the desired size are first welded. On the sides of the opening, bars are nailed for support, a form is set on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are sawn into narrow blocks. They equip the form from the inside. The result will be a semblance of a trough.

The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with a large number of rods is at the bottom. All this is fastened with struts. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with a solution of concrete along the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled at the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

For non-removable form, useU-shaped blocks. Setting the form itself is not required. Less time to work.

For laying such blocks you need:

• Install the block with the cut-out support on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontalness of the supports on the hose level. All irregularities are corrected with a grinding grater.
• The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole up. After that, a reinforcement structure is placed so that there are a large number of rods below. It is fastened with braces
• The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully sealed with a trowel.

It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make it resistant to various types of deformation, wind loads, and increase the carrying capacity. The reinforced belt is insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

Covering and roofing

When the walls are already erected, they begin to deal with the ceiling. For this, crossbars are used. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm apart. They are fastened with special corners.

When installing the crossbars on a brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the crossbars are wrapped in roofing material. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. Insulation material is laid between the lining and the crossbars.

A wooden extension to a house is often built to expand the space in a residential building, and requires a relatively small financial outlay. This article is for those who are going to build a wooden extension to a brick house with their own hands, while minimizing financial costs.

Let's talk about the sequence of work on the installation of an extension made of wood, about the choice of high-quality material, about the pitfalls that may await you, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of this type of building.

Reassignment of a wooden extension

The extension to the house, which we will talk about in this article, may be different.

It can be turned into an excellent or dining room, also, the room is well suited for a living room, a place for family gatherings and relaxing with family or friends.

Operating options may be different, so the owners of each individual house can use the extension at their discretion

Types of extensions to a wooden house

They are different, and each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• Side extension with common or separate roof.
• Attachment in the form of .
• Attached as a second floor.

Side annex with common or separate roof

It is used most often, since it requires little cash outlay. For its construction, you only need to lengthen the roof, combining it with the annex.

With this type, a private house is simply completed a little. It is important to take into account one nuance - in any case, the foundation must be poured thoroughly, even if a tree is used to build an extension.

It is also important to maintain proportions when building a wooden extension to a brick house, since massive-looking structures will not fit into the overall picture of the building.

Usually, the common roof option is suitable for those homeowners who do not have the opportunity to build a common roof on their own.

attic view

This type of do-it-yourself wooden extension to a brick house is a modern type of structure that allows you to save the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot of a private house, creates a unique appearance of housing, and also harmoniously fits into the environment.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house

Planning

When planning a wooden extension to a brick house with your own hands, you should evaluate the possibilities of the foundation. After all, not every foundation, pre-made for a particular house, is able to withstand the weight of an additional structure.

In any case, before starting work, consult with specialists who can help in the calculations and give advice on strengthening the foundation on their own.

Material selection

For the construction of a wooden annex to a brick house with their own hands, most often they use a beam, a frame base, or. There are other types of materials, but they are not as in demand as those mentioned earlier.

The simplest, most reliable and inexpensive material is any type of timber: glued, planed, rounded. Work on installing an extension to a brick house from a bar can be completed in the shortest possible time.

Advantages of an extension to a wooden house

legalization

A wooden extension to a brick house must be legalized in advance without fail.

Failure to comply with this obligation threatens with problems in the form of sanctions imposed by regulatory authorities. It is from this moment that it is necessary to begin the process of installing a wooden outbuilding to a brick house, so as not to go to court later.

First, you need to take permission from the local authorities to build an extension, which will indicate all the nuances and recommendations for the construction of the structure.

Your next step will be a visit to an organization that is engaged in design. There, experts will help to make the necessary project, taking into account requests for the material of the extension and its design.

In addition, advice will be given on conducting electricity and sanitation in the annex (if these communications are planned there).

At the final stage of walking through various regulatory authorities, contact the local department of architecture and construction, and coordinate the extension project there.

There are cases when, after the completion of work, a commission for the inspection of structures in the form of supervisory authorities that monitor compliance with construction standards may descend.

The extension project can be approved within two months.

Stages of building a wooden extension to the house

Selection of materials for construction. Their choice depends on the financial capabilities of the owners of the house, taste preferences, wood quality, their size and color palette.

To prevent drafts, it is necessary to install a door on the front side of the extension, not opposite the front door to the house.

The design of a wooden extension to a brick house with your own hands can be done differently, based on your own preferences and tastes.

We can offer the following as good examples:

• Wooden structures with support elements in harmony with the overall tone of the house in the form of glass inserts.
• Creation of platforms to expand the territory of recreation, games, barbecues.
• Clear or frosted glass inserts (sliding doors, etc.)
• Glass roof.

The most popular way to connect a wooden extension to a brick house is to insert a wooden structure into the base of a brick facade. This is done by chasing the wall and partially planting a wooden structure. Further, the structures are connected with mounting brackets.

The desire to improve their living conditions by increasing the number of square meters appeared in every owner of a private house. The owners of apartments are not far behind in this and would also be happy to add at least one room to themselves.

There is nothing impossible in this, extensions to apartment buildings are a dime a dozen, you just need to know how to do it correctly, and not only from a legal point of view. The key to successful construction and comfortable living is the proper organization of work and compliance with the technology of the process.

Extension layout

They begin the construction of the extension from the most, perhaps, the main thing - with permission for this very construction. Without the appropriate piece of paper, you can run into a serious fine, and the funds spent will be wasted.

The next stage is also theoretical. Determine what purpose the extension being built will have. Will it be a living space or a winter garden, a storage room or just an emergency exit porch. From the purpose of the structure directly depend on the cash injections into the construction.

It will be logical to draw up a drawing correctly, the drawing helps to understand how to make an extension to the house, to make approximate calculations on the amount of material needed. Then they go to the place of future construction and transfer the drawing to the place, indicating the dimensions of the extension with the help of a cord and metal or wooden pegs. It is on the spot that they carefully examine how the new foundation will be combined with the existing one and whether the future extension fits into the architecture.

Material selection

Experts advise to approach this issue simply: what material the main house is built from, the same should be used for the extension. Simply put, if the house is wooden, then a wooden extension should be attached to it. The same applies to brick and concrete. But technical progress in the field of building materials does not stand still, and now universal materials have appeared, for example, foam and gas blocks. In addition to its versatility, it is an environmentally friendly and heat-saving material. You can veneer such an extension with decorative plates that imitate the material of the walls of the main building, which will create the appearance of execution in the same style.

But there are exceptions. In some climatic zones, it is possible to make an extension made of wood to a concrete building if it is used as a storage room or garage. Even a bathhouse can be built from logs and attached to your apartment. The flight of fancy in such cases is limited only by financial possibilities.

Foundation construction

The most important stage of construction -. Even the strongest walls made of modern and expensive materials will be useless on a poor and flimsy foundation, so the answer to the question of how to make an extension to the house, the answer is to choose the right foundation. There are three main types of foundation:

• monolithic reinforced concrete, ;
• columnar.

The first option is universal, it is suitable for all types of buildings, the same applies to the columnar foundation. The pile version is suitable for attaching a light veranda or utility room, which is insignificant in its weight and massiveness. This option is characterized by ease of implementation and pace of construction.

The first step to pouring the foundation should be research work to study the soil. This is done by specialized enterprises, it is extremely difficult to do it on your own, and the costs for the services of these specialists are incomparably small compared to the cost of losing the entire extension.

After issuing recommendations on the type, depth of the foundation and the need to link it to the main building, they begin marking on the spot. The contour is measured very carefully, observing the geometry of the corners, so as not to correct the trench during work.

Start digging a trench from the lowest angle, maintaining the required depth. It is best to immediately put up temporary supports to prevent the collapse of the walls. When earthworks are completed, a pillow of sand and gravel is arranged at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand 100-150 mm thick. it is well compacted, and the same layer of rubble is poured on top. Since we are building an extension to the house with our own hands, all work is done with high quality and conscientiously.

The construction of frame walls will be relatively universal. The technology is little known to a wide range of the population, so many treat it with distrust, and completely in vain.

Popular frame walls

A frame wall is a complex structure. It is complex and multi-layered. Those who wish to apply this particular method often do not know how to make an extension using walls of this design. The wooden frame consists of the upper and lower wall trim. Auxiliary beams and racks are used to obtain the necessary rigidity of the structure, and doors and windows are placed between the crossbars.

The finished wall frame is sheathed on both sides with boards, forming a void, which is filled with insulation, a protective membrane and, without fail, a vapor barrier. A layer of vapor barrier is required. It prevents moisture from getting inside along with warm air from inside the room. Wet insulation loses its properties, and in addition, moisture is very detrimental to the wooden base of the house.

The problem of insulation can be solved by various mineral and glass materials, which are now offered in a large assortment on the construction materials market.

The erection of frame walls begins with the fact that the horizontal strapping beams are attached to the foundation. This is usually done with metal anchors. It is worth mentioning in particular that the waterproofing layer of the foundation should already be laid, and the lower beam should be mounted on top of it. Next, corner and load-bearing racks of the frame are mounted on the lower trim, which are fixed to stiffen with braces.
The upper harness is laid on top of the racks, which are fastened with straight spikes. Sheathing and internal insulation are produced from the inside of the house. Moving outside, the laying sequence is as follows: first the inner lining, then the vapor barrier, glass or mineral insulation, and finally the windproof layer. All this is covered with outer casing.

The outer skin must have good moisture protection qualities, be resistant to wind and all kinds of weather conditions. Typically, this material is "lining" or non-profiled planed board. They must be nailed horizontally. The "lining" is fastened with the inner crest up, and the usual board with overlap and overhang one above the other. Such a scheme allows you to reliably protect the inner layer of insulation from moisture, slanting rain and snowstorms.

Building an extension to the house, you can use almost any material. It is important to remember that some of them are toxic and unsuitable for interior cladding. Fibreboard, plywood or drywall will be an excellent basis for further interior improvements.

roof construction

Usually choose a shed option for the roof of the extension. With this option, the angle of inclination should be at least 25-30˚. Having determined the angle of inclination, fix the beam on the main part of the building. The lower support will be the wall, its outer edge, or the laid floors of the new structure. The edge of the roof should protrude at least 300 mm. from the wall, for maximum protection against rain. After installing the rafters, the main roof is being installed, if it is a hard roof. When choosing a flexible tile, an additional base is laid, in the form of plywood or similar material.

Flooring and interior work

The choice of floor will be dictated by the purpose of the structure. For a residential option, insulation is necessary, by installing a wooden beam and laying insulation, it is also possible to install a warm floor. For a garage or pantry, a concrete floor is quite suitable. This issue must be approached on an individual basis. The same applies to interior decoration.

Having studied the materials of this article, there should be no questions left about how to properly make an extension to a wooden house, since both the choice of material and the stages of construction are similar and suitable for such a construction.

A porch, a veranda, a covered terrace, another living or service room - this is how an extension to a house made of timber may look like. And this choice of material does not depend on what the building itself is built from. The tree will perfectly fit into the design of a private house in any style.

An extension to a house made of timber can repeat the geometry of the main building, and be no smaller in area than it

What needs to be done before starting construction

Home extensions come in a variety of uses.

If this is a capital extension to a private house, then it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local municipal authorities. The only relief is that there are already rights to the land, and the legalization procedure will be simplified.

Non-capital extensions that do not affect the structure of the house and do not change the scheme of engineering networks do not need to obtain a building permit. These include:

• covered terrace;

• external staircase;

Also, permission is not needed if it is an auxiliary structure that does not affect the supporting structures and communications of the main building. For example, for an attached summer kitchen, permission is needed, but for an attached gazebo with a garden fireplace, no.

If we are talking about expanding the building, then this already applies to the reconstruction of the house (regardless of the seasonality of residence), and permits must be issued. This must be done for the following reasons:

the extension will take a certain place on the site, and may violate the standard distances to the boundaries of the site, water intake points, septic tank, gas tank;

the design of the house is changing, which means that the shares of property rights are changing;

technical documentation in the municipal authorities will not correspond to reality, and this is a fine and blocking of any real estate transaction until the reconstruction is legalized or the illegal extension is eliminated.

But, if a construction organization is engaged in this, then obtaining a permit is the concern of the specialists of the company that will develop the extension project.

Foundation

The main difficulty in building an extension is that it needs its own foundation.

During the construction of the house, the foundation is made as a single structure, which redistributes the total load on the entire “spot” of the building. And the foundation around the entire perimeter is the same: for the tape - this is the thickness and depth of the foundation, for piles - the length, section size and distance between them.

For a capital extension, you need the same foundation as for the whole house. You can, of course, put another one, but there will be no full guarantee that it will “behave” in the same way as the main one. Even when the new base is identical in bearing characteristics to the old one, a crack may form at the junction of the tape due to uneven settlement - the soil under the house has already settled, and under the extension it will only begin to deform.

If the house is relatively new, and there is project documentation for it, then it is not difficult to determine the parameters of the foundation.

The same clear technology, if you need to reconstruct the foundation of the house. For example, when an old house was inherited with a plot of land and it is being remodeled “for” themselves, at the same time constructing an extension from a bar to a log house. In this case, the reconstruction of the old foundation and the construction of a new one are carried out using the same technology.

The third option is to examine the old foundation. The tape must be dug up (this will still have to be done where the extension adjoins), determine the materials and the depth of the foundation. And the parameters of the pile - to determine "by eye". That is, in fact, to conduct a small engineering survey.

It is not difficult to tie a pile or screw new foundation to the old one - this is done at the level of the grillage after the supports are installed.

Strip foundations are connected with reinforcement. For this, the wall of the base of the house is dug out along the contour of the trench for the foundation of the extension. Holes are drilled in the base wall according to the diameter of the reinforcement, pins are driven in there and the frame of the new foundation is tied to them.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses from profiled timber of construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Features of an extension from a bar. Material selection

A beam, like a log, is not so often used to build an extension to a house. In most cases, a frame construction technology is chosen for a wooden outbuilding - cheaper, simpler, less load on the soil and sediment, which means you can lay a lighter foundation. And the main advantage is that all construction work and finishing can be started and completed in one season.

An extension from a bar can be made in one season only if it is glued or chamber dried. Both materials practically do not shrink, so there will be no changes in the geometry of walls and partitions.

The beam of natural moisture dries out for a long time, therefore, after the construction of the walls and the erection of the roof, the extension should stand for at least a year. And only after that it is possible to install windows, doors, install communications and carry out finishing.

Another factor affecting the speed of construction and the cost of materials is the purity of processing. Walls made of planed or glued laminated timber practically do not need to be modified, and they can simply be varnished.

There are two options to make an extension from a bar to a wooden house - quickly, but expensive or cheaper, but longer. For comparison, below is the approximate price level for 1 m 3 of a bar of one of the most “running” sizes of 150x150x6000 mm:

edged (construction) - 6000-6300 rubles;

1 grade - 7000-7300 rubles:

profiled natural humidity - 8500-9000 rubles;

profiled chamber drying - 9500-10000 rubles;

planed natural humidity - 9000-9500 rubles;

planed chamber drying - 10500-11500 rubles;

glued - 21000-23000 rubles.

Of course, if they make an extension to a wooden house from a bar, then they choose the type that was used for the main building.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer extensions to existing houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Features of an extension from a bar of natural humidity. Connection to home

A solid and reliable foundation is only part of the problem, which, in principle, is characteristic of all capital extensions. This is not a porch and not a summer veranda, for which the tightness and thermal insulation of the joint to the facade of the house is not so important. And for an attached living space, it is important that there are no gaps.

For a brick extension to a brick house, the problem of sealing is easily solved - both materials are equally stable and do not change their dimensions either with time or with changes in humidity. And here they use the usual mounting foam, which is sealed from above with a cement-sand mortar.

The tree behaves differently. Especially if you use a bar of natural moisture - the frozen foam will simply break. Therefore, the joint between the facade of the house and the extension wall must be made in the form of a windproof “sliding” knot.

The principle itself is not new - a similar technique is used when connecting the casing (landing frame) of a window to the walls of a wooden house. Or, in the same way, internal partitions made of timber are attached to the walls.

There are different ways to connect a wooden extension to the facade of the house. And the choice of a particular type depends on the materials of the facade.

Timber extension to a wooden house

You can attach the external (and internal) walls of an extension to a wooden house from a bar in the following ways:

On a bar. A bar is stuffed to the flat surface of the wall or to the evenly cut ends of the log house, having previously laid a tape interventional insulation along the connection line. At the ends of the extension beam, a groove is cut to the size of the bar. They connect both walls (old and new) with a thorn-groove lock, laying it with another layer of interventional insulation.

On a groove cut in a wooden facade. If it is necessary to attach the extension wall to the log house in the middle of the facade, then there is no point in filling the mortgage bar - there will be large gaps between it and the “wavy” wall. In this case, a groove is cut on the facade along the width of the timber and connected through a tape insulation.

In both cases, next to the connection node, the timber must be connected to each other on the dowels - so that the wall settles equally in height, and the crowns do not diverge due to the difference in the friction force in different parts of the node.

Video description

Visually about joining the beam with the wall of a wooden house and the use of dowels, see the video:

Video description

And the next video shows the first part of the work on the reconstruction of the same house, which tells about the preparation - laying the foundation. It is interesting here that the annex is larger than the main building

There is a third way - connecting the facade and the extension wall with brackets. For thermal insulation of the joint, a tape insulation is laid in it and closed with a flashing. After the end of the active phase of shrinkage (at least a year), the flashing and staples are removed, the joint is caulked again, the staples are hammered again and again closed with a flashing.

Extension to a brick house

To the facade of brick or building blocks, most often the timber wall of the extension is attached through an additional timber with a cut groove. In fact, the method is similar to the principle of connecting with a wooden wall "in a groove". In principle, you can use mounting on a bar, but it is more difficult to fix it directly to the facade with anchors, and if you use corners, they will interfere with the “sliding” of the wall from the bar during shrinkage.

The connection in the groove is effective in any case - both in terms of tightness and engagement strength. And the thermal insulation of the connection point of the extension from the timber to the brick house is provided with the same interventional insulation.

Important! Between the wall and the beam with a groove, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing tape. This is a prerequisite for protecting wood from decay along the line of contact with brick or concrete.

Roof

There are no special features during the construction of the roof of the extension. Usually this is either a single-pitched or gable roof. The truss system of both types belongs to the simplest and the main difficulty is to ensure the tightness of the junction.

If the roof adjoins the facade, then the manufacturer of any roofing materials in the installation instructions describes almost all possible combinations of junction points to other surfaces, regardless of their materials.

If the roof of the extension continues the slope of the roof of the house, then it all depends on the height of the facade. In the simplest case, with the same slope of the two sections, you will have to “build up” the rafter legs from this side. A more complex option is to change the slope angle (like a sloping roof). But even in this case, the technology for arranging the roof is standard.

If the house and the extension are “covered” with one roof (as happens during the reconstruction of a building), then they arrange a common truss system with one Mauerlat or upper trim circuit.

Conclusion

An extension made of timber in terms of manufacturing complexity does not differ from the construction of a timber house. It also needs a detailed project from the foundation to the roof. And of course, the need to refine existing engineering communications imposes a special complexity. New consumption points will appear for electric networks, and this is a change in the load and modes of the emergency protection system. Autonomous heating will require new thermal calculations (and possibly equipment replacement). It may also turn out that it will be necessary to “build up” pipelines for water and sewerage.

Modern construction is experiencing a rebirth of frame technologies. From wooden beams, edged boards and panel panels, houses and cottages are built that are not inferior in comfort and durability to buildings made of classic materials. The idea of ​​​​an extension to a house from a frame is attractive in that for the construction of a room attached to a house, you do not need to fiddle with concrete and masonry blocks, you do not need modern construction equipment, and most importantly, you can make most of the frame extension to a wooden house with your own hands, sometimes not even using the help of assistants.

How a frame extension is built

The technology of frame construction involves the manufacture of a load-bearing frame of an extension of edged timber and boards. The methods of erecting individual parts, walls and roofs of a frame extension to the house practically do not differ from the construction of ordinary wooden frames of a barn gazebo or even a wooden house.

To build a frame extension to the house in several versions:

• A classic frame made of boards, slats and timber, reinforced with struts and struts made of boards with insulation based on mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
• A combined version of a power frame made of timber and SIP panels. The vast majority of construction companies build extensions from the frame only on the basis of panels and timber;
• Frame base made of timber, insulated with basalt wool and lined with siding. In this case, the skeleton of the walls and roof is made according to a reinforced scheme, and the facade decoration is selected to match the color and texture of the walls of the main building.

For your information! The use of a wooden frame and siding allows you to design an extension and a house in one piece. It is quite difficult to visually distinguish which part of the building is capital and which is made in the form of an extension from the frame.

On the other hand, the use of siding dramatically increases the load on the frame of the extension, you have to use more expensive lumber, buy slats or clapboard for interior wall decoration, and pour a more massive foundation.

The construction based on the frame and siding justifies itself for rooms no larger than 3x5 m. Larger boxes are more cost-effective to build from foam blocks, and the frame for small extensions, as a rule, is assembled from a 70x90 mm timber and a magpie edged board.

The main issue of building an extension

The construction of any extension based on a wooden frame begins with the selection of a place for the installation of an attached building and a rough marking of the future foundation is carried out. The correct selection of the foundation scheme guarantees the durability of the structure, simple copying of the foundation device, like the frame of a barn or a wooden arbor, most often ends with a break in the supporting racks and even overturning the extension.

On what basis to put the extension frame

Before attaching a frame extension to the house, it is necessary to remove the sod and at least approximately determine the nature of the soil. The more clay, the harder and heavier the foundation base of the extension frame should be.

Wooden buildings with a load-bearing frame are installed on the following types of foundation:

• pile-grillage;
• Columnar;
• Tape shallow.

The most suitable foundation option is determined by the degree of heaving of the soil in winter and the rigidity of the walls of the house. For a frame extension to a small wooden house, you can use a columnar foundation.

Ideally, the wooden frame of a small extension is installed on the same foundation as the house, this avoids problems with shrinkage and temperature fluctuations. The small weight of the extension has practically no effect on the wooden walls of the main house.

Another thing is if the room attached to the house has two floors, and the dimensions of the frame are only slightly smaller than the frame base of the house itself. In this case, the extension is installed on a strip foundation made of brick or concrete, since the frame made of timber, even reinforced with struts, is not rigid enough.

Pile supports under the extension frame

The strip foundation goes well with the wooden frame of the extension on relatively stable sandy and stony soils, if it is necessary to install an attached building on clay or watered soils, then the pile-grillage foundation will be the only option.

Thanks to the use of piles, two serious problems can be solved:

• Avoid deformation of the frame, destruction of floor beams and strapping racks due to heaving of the soil;
• Reduce overflow and absorption of ground moisture by wooden frame structures. The strip foundation has always been considered the most "wet" and coldest.

The use of screw piles allows you to assemble an extension of any size, to almost any house, whether it is a brick, block or wooden structure. At the same time, the frame extension to the wooden house turns out to be balanced in terms of horizontal loads, that is, with strong wind or soil pressure, the foundation rigidity is enough not to load the main building.

Piles can be screwed or poured in close proximity to the foundation of the building, since there are no deep trenches, and the supports are “softly” screwed into the ground, the risk of damaging the foundation of the house is minimized.

For small rooms, the frame structure can be installed on cheaper asbestos-cement pipes, in order to securely tie the skeleton of future walls and floors to the supports, wire or anchor bolts are walled up in the pipe heads.

Extension strip foundation

The construction scheme of the strip base for the premises attached to the house is practically no different from the standard MZL foundation. The only difference is that the width of the tape is made quite thin, no more than the width of the strapping beam. It does not make sense to make it wider, since the concrete tape has a margin of safety an order of magnitude greater than is required to hold the extension frame. The foundation for a frame extension to the house is being built with your own hands, photo, in two full working days

The basement of the foundation must be pasted over with rolled waterproofing and laid with a strapping beam, to which vertical posts, struts or SIP panels will be attached.

Next comes the turn of stuffing the subfloor with boards, the insulation and waterproofing of the attached premises are performed at the final stage, but for now the shield is laid from the boards for the convenience of assembling the extension frame. After assembling the frame structure, logs will be laid on the strapping beam and then a decision is made on how to sew up floorboards or OSB boards.

We build the walls and roof of the frame room

The beam of the lower strapping is sewn to the pile or strip foundation with the help of anchor bolts. First, a tie-in is performed at the corners of the extension, and only after marking the installation points of the vertical posts, they look for free space for anchors.

External walls of the extension frame

The extension frame can be assembled in two ways. The first option involves the formation of external walls using a series of vertical racks of timber, interconnected by lintels of their boards and trimmings. The heads of the racks are necessarily connected by the upper strapping beam, which will later serve as the basis for the formation of the ceiling and roof of the extension. All elements of the jumpers between the racks, the places of articulation and mutual tie-in of the wooden elements of the frame are necessarily reinforced with mounting metal plates.

The cells of the frame are filled with mineral wool mats, or pasted over with sheet XPS, after which a crate is stuffed to remove condensate and a film vapor barrier is laid. The inner and outer surface of the frame walls is sheathed with OSB or clapboard.

Particular attention should be paid to the corner posts of the frame and equestrian openings. Most often, intensive freezing of condensate occurs along the corner line of the seam in winter due to the presence of a cold bridge. So that the inner corners of the room do not dampen the frame, they are supplemented with a simple casing of two boards stuffed with slats.

The second version of the frame formation is used for the construction of large extensions. Instead of forming the outer frame in the traditional cellular way, only the corner posts are built, the beams of the upper and lower trim are laid, and the walls of the extension are assembled from ready-made SIP panels. Next, the beams of the interfloor ceiling and ceiling are sewn. As a result, several massive racks made of 150x200 mm timber take the main load, and the walls and ceilings remain, as it were, in a suspended state.

Important! Regardless of the way the frame is assembled, an expansion joint must be formed between the walls of the building and the attached premises, which is filled with insulation and rubbed with silicone.

The joints and seams between the SIP panels are glued with acrylic mass, after which you can proceed to the construction of the roof frame.

Assembling the truss system

It takes about half of the working time planned for the construction of an extension to assemble the roof truss frame. The simplest option involves the manufacture of a gable roof coaxial with the roof of the main building. To simplify the articulation of two truss systems, the height of the extension is chosen 60-70 cm lower than the vertical size of the house. In this case, the roof simply rests on the gable of the house.

If an additional room was added to the side wall of the house, then the main axes of the truss systems form parallel lines. So that a dead zone does not form between the slopes, a shed roof is used for the attached premises, articulated with rafters with load-bearing elements of the house, as in the diagram.

The most difficult option for joining the frames of two truss systems is shown in the photo.

Such docking options present a certain difficulty even for experienced carpenters, so such roofs are usually ordered on a turnkey basis at construction companies. The main problem is to ensure the tightness of the roofing in the area where the ridge beam enters the truss frame of the house. The wooden skeleton of the attached premises will shrink within six months, as a result of which the adjoining zone is crushed and opens even when reinforced with metal aprons.

Conclusion

The frame technology for arranging an attached room allows you to build a box quickly enough and without unforeseen costs for repairing the foundation or fixing the masonry. Today, frame houses and outbuildings are considered the most promising construction option, so many companies and organizations have begun to produce ready-made attached premises with the possibility of pre-ordering and manufacturing up to 70% of the necessary components. Such a set will only need to be delivered to the place and assembled as a children's designer.