Do-it-yourself bunk ceilings made of plasterboard. Two-level plasterboard ceiling: instructions for self-installation

One of the most effective design techniques is the use of lighting effects. Often it is the light that gives zest to the interior. Backlit plasterboard ceiling is one of the most common options. It is good because, if desired, you can make it yourself, with your own hands.

The main design differences

Plasterboard ceiling lighting can be hidden and open. Open - spotlights that are fully or partially visible. Hidden is called so because only its radiation is visible. Therefore, when installing a plasterboard ceiling with hidden lighting, the lower level boxes are made with a shelf on which the lighting fixtures are placed.

This shelf can be open or closed and, depending on this, and the position of the light sources changes the width and brightness of the strip of light on the ceiling.

How the light flux changes depending on the shape of the shelf and the location of the light source

Illumination box design

To make such a box for lighting the ceiling, two types of profiles are needed:

In the version shown in the photo above, the shelf does not rest on anything. The rigidity of the GKL itself is enough to keep a light backlight. In this case, the weight of the lighting elements must be taken into account. The heaviest are fluorescent lamps, but they are practically not used recently, as there are other options that are more economical in energy consumption and easier to install (LED strips, duralight).

There is a second design. Here the shelf extension rests on elongated crossbars. If the previous design seems unreliable to you, you can do this. Only in this case a little more carrier profile will be required. In the photo - an example of the organization of a two-level flow of plasterboard with backlight.

Exactly the same scheme can be implemented in a single-level version. If your main ceiling is in good condition, you can only make a box around the perimeter. An example of an assembled frame for highlighting is below. It remains to make the inner side, and hem the frame from the bottom.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling does not always have straight lines. They are simply the easiest to implement. But the same schemes are made with curved lines. Very beautiful false ceilings turn out.

Only at large distances from the load-bearing walls, it is necessary to additionally fix the load-bearing profile either to the ceiling or to the profiles of the previous level. It is more convenient to do this with suspensions.

Sources of light

When planning to highlight plasterboard ceilings, we must remember that this is not lighting at all, but only a way to decorate the room. The flow of light is scattered. Initially, it is welded onto the ceiling, and then into the room. And adds almost nothing to the overall illumination of the room. With its help, you can visually "raise" the ceiling, make it one of the components of the interior, but this element cannot be considered lighting. Lighting will have to be taken care of separately: install built-in lamps, wall or traditional chandeliers.

Backlighting can be done using different light sources, but recently three types have been used:

• LED
  • tapes;
  • duralight.
• Neon tubes.

LED strips and duralight

This is a series of LEDs mounted in series. Their peculiarity is that they are powered by 12 V or 24 V. This power can be provided using an adapter that converts the 220 V household voltage to a lower one. There are monochrome glow tapes (white, red, blue, green) which, when labeled, are designated SMD or universal RGB.

Monochrome always emit one color, the color of universal can change. RGB tapes work only with the controller and the control panel. On command from the control panel, they change the shade (the number of colors can be different - from tens to hundreds), in some models the intensity of the glow can also change.

According to the type of execution, LED strips are:

• Ordinary. They do not have a protective coating, they can only be used in dry rooms.
• Waterproof. Their surface is varnished. Can be used to illuminate wet areas - kitchens, bathrooms.
• Moisture resistant. They are sealed in a polymer tube (called duralight) or cases. They are rarely used to illuminate rooms, more often - in aquariums, pools, etc.

The choice is clear here. Choose the type of tape depending on the conditions of the room. , and we'll talk about what good or bad LEDs in the backlight.

First about the benefits:

• Small power consumption. They are very economical. Given that this is only decoration, I don’t want to lay out large sums for its maintenance.
• They don't get warm. Only the power supply can heat up, the LEDs themselves do not heat up. This is important if the ceiling is wooden.
• Long service life. Counted in thousands of hours. With a normal power supply, they burn out very rarely (do not exceed the current for which they are intended).
• Low price. Tape SMD 35 * 28 5 meters long and 120 pcs / m density costs about $ 2-3. About the same amount you have to pay for the adapter. True, these are the prices of Aliexpress. In stores, everything is much more expensive (2-3 times), although you won’t go broke either.
• Easy installation. Adhesive is applied to the back of the tape. Remove the protective layer and stick in the right place. If the surface is rough, you can “shoot” with staples from a construction stapler, but it is better not to punch the tape itself.

Now for the disadvantages. First, and most important: LEDs hard highlight all the flaws in the surface. Therefore, the requirements for the quality of the ceiling finish are very high. The second minus: the presence of adapters. They need to be built somewhere. That's probably all.

neon tubes

These are glass tubes filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. The brightness of the glow changes when the current strength changes, which is regulated by the convector. These devices are installed every 5 meters, their power consumption is about 100 W, they do not make noise during operation.

Also, a step-up transformer is needed for operation: normal voltage is not enough for neon to work. Transformers are installed every 6 meters. But they can hum during operation, and also get warm and electricity, of course, “pulls” pretty well. The whole system as a whole consumes a fairly large amount of electricity, which, combined with the fragility of the tubes and the rather high complexity of installation, makes it not very attractive compared to LEDs.

But neon cords have recently appeared. They come immediately with the controller and all you need is to press a button. They work on finger batteries. But the power of such lighting for the ceiling is definitely not enough. They can be used in tandem with LEDs to illuminate interior details.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step by step photos

The main ceiling in this version was puttied, so the first tier was not made. They attached only a box around the perimeter: the height is already small and 7-8 cm, which are necessary for the organization of the suspension, are critical.

A place for a cornice was left near the window, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, roundings are made in the corners.

The first method was chosen - a step under the backlight without support. Since the backlight is planned from a conventional LED strip, its carrying capacity is more than enough.

First make markings on the ceiling. All given dimensions are set aside, lines are drawn with a masking cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is advanced forward by 6 cm.

When drawing roundings, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.

Profile guides (CD or PNP in the marking) are attached along the drawn lines. They fastened to the dowels in 50 cm increments. They drilled immediately, through the metal. Having installed the plug, they twisted the dowel-nail.

Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are cut, the back remains intact. After that, the profile can be laid out in a circle.

On the front side, to the guide profile on the ceiling, we fasten and fasten a strip of drywall 12 cm wide. This will be the back side of our box. We fasten it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws with a screw at a distance of about 10 cm.

On the back side of the installed side, we fix vertical racks from the CD (ceiling) profile. Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm box height, minus 1 cm for the installation of profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm thickness of the plasterboard, screwed from below).

In each segment, the lower part is trimmed. The side walls are removed so that another guide profile can be screwed on. As a result, its lower shelf should be flush with the profile screwed to the wall. The step of installing vertical racks is about 40-50 cm.

We fasten short vertical pieces around the perimeter

The next step: we fasten the PNP profile that goes along the bottom of the boot. It is also installed on self-tapping screws in increments of 10-12 cm.

They connect two guide profiles: one that is screwed to the wall and one that is attached to the main ledge. They are made from a carrier profile in increments of 40-50 cm.

Let's start making rounds. In order for the strip to bend along the required trajectory, we take a strip of drywall with a width of about 15 cm. We cut it in 5 cm increments and break the plaster. It turned out pieces of gypsum, which are held on cardboard.

Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so as not to burst.

Using a laser level, we transfer the height markings to the inside. If there is no laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.

Then we take a piece of the carrier profile 9.8 cm long, we just cut it both from above and below. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we start one edge behind the profile, fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a piece of profile cut into fragments (as we did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.

Finished rounding "from the inside"

Now the extra pieces of drywall can be removed. They are cut to a level with the lower edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.

The next step in making a backlit drywall ceiling is putty. The ceiling and the main side are puttied. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the filing from below and the protruding cornice will interfere.

It is most convenient to cut out a square, then cut it off on one side. First we screw it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the desired shape of the edge.

First you can draw, then bite off in small pieces along this line. Smooth out irregularities with a wallpaper knife.

No news: for rounding, we cut the sidewalls, bend them with the desired diameter and put them in place, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

If you plan to make LED lighting for a plasterboard ceiling, it's time to attach the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, setting some kind of inclined plane.

Next, a strip of drywall 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. Of the features, the fastening is in the middle, and not above and below: the height is too small. Bends are also made familiar. We cut the strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster and fasten it.

In this embodiment, to facilitate the work and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets (ceiling plinth) are glued to the side. Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.

Now it remains to putty everything and achieve a smooth surface. Almost everything. The plasterboard ceiling with lighting is ready, it remains to install the backlight itself. And it can be different.

Another option can be seen in video format, but with working backlight.

The installation of a two-level stream is demonstrated in the following video. The steps are shown schematically, but the assembly of the first level is clear. So that might be helpful.

How can I decorate a plasterboard ceiling with lighting (photo)

LED plasterboard ceiling lighting is just a spectacular design technique. Lighting must be taken care of separately

Bedroom ceiling lighting

Two-level plasterboard ceilings are an affordable way to create an original do-it-yourself design for a living room, kitchen, dining room. For installation you will need: a metal profile or a wooden beam, plasterboard, wallpaper or paint. The only caveat is that it is impossible to install it alone. You can do the work together, no experience is required, just follow the instructions.

• Determination of the configuration, drawing up a sketch.
• The choice of finishing method, color scheme, lamps.
• Schematic drawing of the framework.
• Calculation of the quantity and cost of materials and work.
• Purchase of tools.
• Markup.
• Frame installation.
• Marking, trimming and fixing GKL.
• Finishing.

Advantages of two-tier ceilings from plasterboard

Tasks that can be solved using a multi-level system:

• create various visual effects - decorating with materials of different colors or shades visually increases or decreases the height, gives a feeling of spaciousness or a tighter and more comfortable room;
• make a box around the perimeter (or insert) for mounting spotlights, electrical wiring, and other communications;
• highlight separate zones in a large room - this is a good option for a kitchen-dining room or studio apartment;
• the two-level design of the ceiling helps to decorate it with curly details of any shape - geometric, in the form of flowers, waves, repeating or complementing the pattern on the walls, floor, furniture.

Design Choice

Examples of the design of a two-level ceiling:

1. Box. It is installed around the entire perimeter or in fragments along the walls, sometimes in only one or two corners. This is the easiest option. Part can be bent on the wall. Sometimes it has a curvilinear shape, consisting of several separate elements of the same or different shapes.

2. "Drowned" figure in the center. You can place lamps on it or hang a chandelier. If the room is large, then there may be several of them, for example, above different zones. In the bedroom, it is appropriate to fix the canopy over the bed. In the nursery, images of animals, toys, flowers are performed.

3. "Pill". In the center hangs a circle or oval from the plasterboard. Sometimes, in addition, a box is mounted along the walls or at some distance from them around the perimeter. It turns out a figure inscribed in a square, rectangle or another circle. Varieties of two-level plasterboard ceilings: in the center, instead of a rounded “tablet”, a design of any other shape; in a spacious room they make several overhanging figures. If the distance allows, then hang lamps, chandeliers.

4. A semicircle (or several) against a wall or in a corner. Such a two-level illuminated ceiling looks especially good, it is easy to cut out a figure with any radius.

5. A complex pattern from the intersection of narrow stripes: straight, curved, in the form of petals. Usually they are decorated with spotlights or LEDs.

An interesting option is a combination of tension and plasterboard elements.

Drawing up a diagram of a two-level ceiling system

• Measure the length and height of the walls, check the corners.
• Focusing on the lowest angle, determine how far from the floor the lower level will be. The height of the box should not be so large that the whole structure looks bulky. When calculating, be sure to take into account what communications will be behind the drywall. For electrical wiring, it is enough to leave 5 cm, for some types of lamps, pipes, ventilation ducts, a greater distance will be required.
• Draw a sketch to scale by hand or on a computer.
• Make a drawing of the frame with the location of intersections and connections. The step between the elements of the guide profile is 30-40 cm, for the carrier profile - no more than 60 cm.
• Mark on the drawing the location of the electrical wiring, junction box, pipes, fixtures.

Frame materials

For work you need:

1. Guide ceiling profile (UD) to create the perimeter of the crate. It is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4-0.7 mm. There is an option with pre-drilled mounting holes. This simplifies and speeds up the work, but does not affect reliability in any way. UD profile dimensions: length 3 or 4 m, width - 28 mm, height - 27 mm.

2. Carrier profile (CD) to create the base of the frame. It is inserted into the UD, fixed with hangers. It holds all the drywall. For its manufacture, the same material is used as for the guide. CD-profile dimensions: length - 3 or 4 m, width - 60 mm, height - 27 mm.

3. Suspension. This is an element made of 0.9 mm thick galvanized steel strip. With it, the crate is additionally attached to the ceiling, preventing profile deflection. The suspension is cut with scissors for metal, then bent. Along the perimeter of this part there are protrusions that ensure the reliability and rigidity of fixation. Dimensions: in the straight state - 125 × 60x30 mm, in a bent form - 60x27 mm.

4. Cross connector (crab). Designed for mounting to the frame base of its secondary segments. Has the form of a cross, is equipped with four clamps.

5. Pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL). This is a self-adhesive material made of gray or black polyurethane foam in the form of a strip, impregnated with a neoprene compound. It goes on sale rolled into a roller. The gray tape has the best performance. After the PSUL is placed in the seam, it expands on its own and fills the cavities and gaps, which increases reliability. Many builders do not use tape, citing the fact that it is not necessary. But professionals advise not to save on this addition, since PSUL dampens shocks, sounds, and increases mechanical strength.

6. Dowels for fastening the profile and hangers to the walls and ceiling. They are selected under the base, to which the crate of the plasterboard structure will be mounted.

7. Self-tapping screws for the profile. To connect the guides and bearing parts to each other, cross-slotted bug-type screws for the PH-2 bit are used. They also attach the profile to the suspensions.

The profile is easily cut, which allows you to create curved elements from it. To do this, the whip is cut through equal segments and bent along the desired radius. It is possible to manufacture a ceiling frame from plasterboard from a dry wooden beam measuring 50x30 mm. The only advantage of wood construction is environmental friendliness. The beam is more expensive than a metal profile, less durable, requires processing before installation. All products are purchased with a stock.

The choice of drywall

GKL in everyday life is called dry plaster. This is a building and finishing material consisting of a gypsum core lined on both sides with thick cardboard. The properties of the sheet allow it to be bent and cut, creating figures of any shape, including curvilinear ones. Antifungal ingredients may be added as a supplement.

Fire-resistant and moisture-resistant sheets withstand direct exposure to an open flame from 25 to 60 minutes. If there are no high requirements for the fire safety of the premises, then the usual GKL is suitable in almost all cases. For the kitchen, it is better to choose GKLV or GKLVO.

Drywall has the shape of a rectangle. Standard sizes:

• thickness - 6-24 mm;
• length - 2500-4800 mm;
• width - 1200 mm, for plates with a thickness of 24 mm - 600.

Sheets up to 9.5 mm thick are suitable for ceilings. They weigh less, which facilitates installation and the system as a whole. The special arched GKL is particularly flexible and allows you to create structures with bends.

Do-it-yourself frame mounting technology

Management:

1. Apply markings to the ceiling and walls according to a pre-compiled scheme.

2. Use a perforator or drill to drill for dowels.

3. If there are no holes for fasteners in the profile, drill them with a drill or a screwdriver, also according to the scheme. If there are elements of a curvilinear shape, then cut and bend the profile.

4. Attach the guide profile to the markings on the wall so that its bottom line coincides with the height of the frame.

5. Glue the sealing tape to the reverse side.

6. Attach the UD profile along the entire marking line with dowels. Insert the segments into each other at the corners.

7. With a step of 60 cm, install the hangers so that each is located in the middle, between the jumpers, bend them.

8. Cut the carrier profile into segments with scissors for metal or a grinder. Some of them will go to the horizontal elements, the rest - to the vertical ones.

9. Glue the sealing tape to the profile and attach the pieces to the hangers.

10. Fix the jumpers with the help of crabs.

11. Consistently connect all the parts.

12. Sheathe the resulting structure.

Install the second level in the same way. When mounting the frame, it is necessary to ensure that the elements from the profile are attached to the crate of the first level, and not just to drywall.

Do-it-yourself GKL cutting technology

• Lay the sheet on a flat horizontal surface.
• Mark with a pencil using a ruler or level. If you need to make a long straight line - use a paint thread.
• With a sharp mounting knife, draw several times along the markup. To make the cut even, use the ruler again. Extend the knife blade to a distance no more than the thickness of the plate.
• Move the drywall so that the notch is outside the surface of the table, and break it.
• Make an incision on the back. Finally cut.
• Finish the cut with a planer or sandpaper.

If you need to cut the sheet in the shape of the letter L, then a short cut is made with a hacksaw, and a long one with a mounting knife. The holes are also made with a hacksaw before the GKL is attached to the frame. For curved cuts, you need a jigsaw. When working with it, a lot of dust is generated, so you will need a respirator and goggles. Round holes, for example, for lamps, are made with a drill with a crown of the appropriate diameter. The edges of the cuts are treated with a primer.

Drywall installation technology

To fix the GKL, you will need self-tapping screws for metal or wood (depending on the material of the crate), a screwdriver and a mop. It is placed on the back side (marked on it). The front side is smoother, has increased adhesion for better adhesion to the finish. Drive the head of the self-tapping screw to a depth of no more than 1 mm. Install drywall to the frame with two people.

Instruction:

• One of the installers, having previously taken a supply of self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, climb the scaffolding. The other stands at such a distance as to freely give the partner one end of the plate, while simultaneously lifting the other.
• Substitute the mop under the GKL right in the center and use it to press firmly against the frame.
• Start screwing the screws at a distance of 20 cm from each other, moving in the direction from yourself to your partner.
• After the sheet is half screwed, it is enough to lightly prop it up with a mop.

Holes for fixtures are made during the installation of drywall.

Ceiling lighting installation

The lighting wiring is mounted already during the construction of the frame. Cables are brought to the fixtures by placing it in a corrugated pipe. The junction box must be in an accessible place. Experts recommend running a backup cable from it in a separate corrugation. This is necessary in case one of the wires fails. The luminaires are installed after the completion of the finishing of the two-level plasterboard ceiling. Choose light sources that are easy to replace if necessary. Pre-wiring is de-energized.

Fixture types:

• point;
• LED Strip Light;
• duralight;
• neon tubes.

Bunk ceiling lighting options:

• Open. In the GKL, selected lamps are mounted on the fragments visible from below.
• Hidden. Only radiation is visible, the sources of illumination are hidden. To do this, a special shelf is made in the lower level, on which lamps are placed. If the total weight of the backlight is small, then it may not rest on anything, but be a continuation of the sheet attached to the second level. The direction, width and brightness of the strip of light depend on the location of the shelf and sources.

The simplest solution is a plasterboard ceiling with perimeter lighting.

Finishing a two-level ceiling

Finish in two ways: paste over with wallpaper or paint. First, a primer and a layer of finishing putty are applied to the GKL. If the surface is not perfectly flat, then it is better to prefer wallpaper.

Instead of conventional dyes, lime mortar is often used, but this option is not suitable for kitchens, bathrooms, and other rooms with high humidity. The paint is applied with a fine-nap roller across the room, the corners are treated with a brush. When choosing tools, you need to make sure that the bristles or pile are securely fastened, otherwise after applying the finish they will remain on the ceiling. Water-based coatings are suitable for GKL, especially those based on acrylic or latex. In the kitchen, it is desirable to use washable paints. During the work, the batteries are turned off, this is necessary to slow down the drying. After the first layer, the second one must be applied.

Two-level curly ceilings make it possible to make the design of the room exquisite and unique, the use of drywall for their manufacture allows you to get a decorative highlight of the interior quickly and relatively inexpensively.

Types of suspended ceilings

What form the design will have is determined only by the designer. The immediate form, the design depends on the designer's imagination. But still, any construction belongs to one of the types:

• single level;
• Simple of two or three levels;
• Complex figured ceiling.

Advantages of drywall coating

With the help of drywall, most ceilings are mounted. Benefits of using this material:

• Ease of operation;
• Comparative cheapness;
• The opportunity to get a full-fledged design masterpiece.

A variety of lighting is mounted in drywall coatings, which makes it stunning.

Direct installation of a drywall coating with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing in this matter is the presence of desire and experience. It is difficult for beginners in the construction business to immediately make a complex structure with their own hands, it is better to start with a simple two- or three-level ceiling. On the Internet, there are many professional videos and photos that will become a source of building experience.

General idea of ​​two- and three-level ceilings

A two-level backlit ceiling is shown in the photo:

The base ceiling or single-level ceiling becomes the basic basis for two- and three-level structures.

Important! Two- and three-level structures are mounted without fail on the previous frame. Each subsequent level has a smaller area.

The main principles of do-it-yourself installation:

• Correct and accurate calculation;
• Direct combination of all levels of construction;
• Correct and neat design of edge parts.

Advantages:

• Visual change in the volume of the room;
• Giving individuality, sophistication, originality;
• Allocation due to the design of the functional part of the room;

There are several options for creating a two- and three-level plasterboard ceiling.

Relative simplicity is distinguished by the installation of a two-level ceiling, which is a step around the perimeter of the room. This design is used in combination with lighting and is called a frame ceiling.

A popular method is zoning a room using a diagonal multi-level ceiling. The structure is based on a single-level area, and a second level of the desired size is made in the allotted corner.

Design Choice

The choice of design design is not complete without viewing photos and videos on the direct installation of a two- or three-level ceiling with your own hands. There are many types of two-level flow:

• With right angles;
• With wavy lines;
• With sudden or mild transitions;
• With hidden illumination;
• With the use of a variety of paintings.

For a small room or kitchen, a strict two-level ceiling of exquisite design with spotlights around the perimeter is suitable.

Important! Studying the photo, pay attention to the location of the backlight and the palette of tones used.

How to install a two-level coating with your own hands - a guide

There is disagreement among professionals regarding the sequence of steps in the construction of tiers. The following methods can be emphasized:

• The first method involves mounting the frame of the first level;
• The second one provides for the installation of the second tier, and between its components a frame of the first level is placed.

Important! Do-it-yourself installation is carried out, following the sequence of steps and strictly according to the instructions.

The technique for manufacturing this kind of ceiling provides for the procedure:

1. Coating preparation.
2. Installation of the frame structure of the first level;
3. Installation of the second level;
4. Construction finishing.

Preparatory work

Regardless of the planned design, the main task of the preparatory work is accurate measurements and markings. Since, due to poor-quality first steps, product distortions are obtained. The design usually consists of the following geometric shapes:

• Semicircle;
• Oval;
• Rectangle.

Important! The task of the preparatory work is to carry out a rough finish of the floor and walls.

The final finish is made after the installation of the "skeleton" of the structure. It is important not to forget that the structure must be even. For this purpose, the level is applied every 0.5 m along the room and across the width. If the ceiling has irregularities of about 5 mm, then it is leveled.

Important! If the ceiling is dry and the plaster is solid, the old layer is removed and leveled with finishing plaster.

Pay attention to this nuance: if the plaster peels off, it is removed until the overlap.

Do-it-yourself coating installation

To make a two-level drywall construction with your own hands, mark the walls and ceiling for direct mounting of the "skeleton" of the structure. First, marking is carried out in order to attach the guide profiles of the frame of the first level.

Important! Please note that the entire structure must necessarily be parallel to the floor.

First of all, they put a mark in the place where the wall has the smallest height at a distance of 7-8 cm from the ceiling. A similar mark is made in the opposite corner of the wall, taking into account the real height. A clear, even straight line is drawn between the marks. A similar method is carried out marking on all walls. The next step is to connect all the lines. The resulting line shows the minimum boundary of the guide profile. For the second level, similar manipulations are carried out.

How to make markup: photo

Important! If the room is low, the distance from the cover for the frame of the first level should not exceed 2.5 cm.

Installation of the frame structure of the first level

Subsequence:

• The procedure starts with mounting UD profiles. They are fixed directly to the wall along the circumference of the building. The step is 600 mm. The same procedure is performed on the ceiling. The mounting method is shown in the photo.

• According to the markings, a direct suspension is attached to the coating.

Important! If the ceiling is even, you can safely skip this step.

• A CD profile is attached to a direct suspension. The frame of the structure takes the form shown in the photo.

• After that, the structure is sheathed with drywall.

Installing the second level frame

For the construction of the second level, the following steps are taken, involving the installation of drywall:

• Frame layout;
• Mounting the frame;
• Lowering the structure to the desired length;
• Facing.

Drywall is ideal for kitchens. It allows you to highlight the working and dining area with the help of lighting, hide engineering networks. However, owners of low ceilings should not get carried away with bulky multi-level structures.

In the photo you can see an example of the design of a low ceiling in the kitchen.

Important! Pay special attention to the placement and brightness of the lighting.

Flat surfaces are already out of fashion today, and more and more often the owners are wondering how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling by arranging hidden lighting on it.

Planning how to make a two-level ceiling

If the standard solution, when the ceiling is an ideal plane, does not suit you, you need to use an unusual design already invented by someone, or create something of your own. In the first case, it will be easier for you, since most often you can find a scheme for assembling profiles for drywall and calculating the required number of sheets. However, the second option is already attractive because upon successful completion of the work, you will become the owner of a unique design.

Before you make a two-level ceiling, decide how it will fit into the design of the room. An additional level can serve for various purposes, for example, as a room zoning, and, of course, for placing additional lighting points. As a rule, they consist of a base, which can serve as the ceiling itself with a perfectly smoothed surface, as well as dry plaster sheathing, as well as from a box in which the backlight is mounted.

There are two types of fastening of the entire structure. The first option is rigid fixation, when in addition to the main, leveling layer, the second tier is also attached to the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that during earthquakes, the frame can be deformed, which will lead to displacement and cracking of the skin. The second type is a floating structure, without a rigid connection with the walls. By itself, it is strong, it will only sway slightly during tremors, without breaking the skin.

Do-it-yourself two-level ceiling from A to Z

The manufacture of a structure in several tiers differs from a typical plasterboard leveling sheathing only in the complexity of the frame. This must be taken into account and not immediately taken on unusual design ideas, but try your hand at making a ceiling with a fairly simple geometry. Wavy, curved lines are considered the most difficult to implement; it is easier to work with rectangular shapes. Consider the principle of installation on a typical solution of a box located around the perimeter of the room.

Two-level illuminated ceiling - step by step diagram

Step 1: Pre-layout

We choose the distance from the ceiling at which the lower level will be located (more distant from the floor), put markers on the wall and beat off a line along them with a coated cord.

Step 2: Determining the position of the back wall of the niche

Since the second tier in our project will become part of the box that goes around the perimeter of the ceiling, we determine in advance where the end of the structure will be located, facing the center of the room. We beat off the markup line, along which, in turn, we fasten the guides. Thus, we have two rectangles of profiles available: one along the wall, the second a little higher, along the ceiling.

Step 3: Installing jumpers

Behind the ceiling guides from the side of the walls, we attach suspensions to the ceiling, after which we mount jumpers to them and the wall guides so that they reach exactly the ceiling profiles. To do this, we stretch the cord under the latter, along which we will orient the trimmings of the aluminum U-shaped profile of the appropriate length.

Step 4: Installing the Low Level Guide

After all the jumpers are fixed on the suspensions, we mount the guides on them exactly along the ceiling profiles.

To do this, we use a plumb line or a laser level, you can also navigate along a previously stretched cord.

The main thing is that the ceiling and bottom profiles are in the same vertical plane.

Step 5: Sheathing the rear niche shelf

Two guides arranged one above the other form the basis for the end of the box, which will cover the perimeter of the room and at the same time become the back wall of the niche, after the formation of the latter. We need to cut several strips from the drywall sheet, the width of which will be the distance from the ceiling to the edge of the lower profile.

With self-tapping screws we fix the prepared fragments of dry plaster along the entire inner end of the frame.

Step 6: Marking under the top profile

Directly on the fixed strips of drywall, we mark the position of the profiles under the upper level and beat off the lines with a coated thread along the markers.

Then, according to the markings made, we fasten the guides, measuring along the long sides of the structure 60 cm segments for the profiles that will be installed with the specified step.

The next markup can be done both with a pencil directly on the floor, and with the help of a cord attached to self-tapping screws screwed into the drywall strips.

Step 7: Installing the Top Level Frame

We cut the metal profiles along the length of the short side of the inner end cladding of the structure, after which we insert them into the guides along the cords or drawn lines, fixing them to the ceiling with direct suspensions.

We estimate the location of dry plaster sheets at the upper level, for which it can be useful, and at their joints we install jumpers between the base profiles.

Step 8: Sheathing the first tier with drywall

We fasten the drywall to the rails by screwing the screws at the joints in a checkerboard pattern. Also, fasteners must be used in the center of each sheet, the width of which is 120 centimeters, that is, to fasten to the intermediate profile.

Step 9: Finishing the seams and edges of the first level skin

We carefully putty all the corner joints of drywall sheets, processing the edges and joints.

We smooth the putty coating as much as possible, when it dries, we rub it with fine sandpaper. In other words, we prepare in advance the above areas for painting or other types of finishes.

Step 10: Sheathing the second tier

We mount drywall on the guides of the lower level so that the edges of the sheet fragments extend beyond the end of the box by 10-15 centimeters.

It is at this stage, before you finally assemble the two-level ceiling with your own hands, that it is advisable to set the lighting points by attaching the lamps to the end skin. However, you can go the easy way using LED strip embedded in a niche. Having decided in favor of the second option, we simply sheathe the frame, forming a second level and a niche due to the removal of sheets of dry plaster. All ledges that make up the shelf must be at the same level.

We fix the profile

It is behind it that you can hide the LED strip or other light sources. We screw narrow strips of drywall to the guides, trying to completely hide the aluminum profiles.

All trimmings made for dry plaster sheathing must be of the same width. Next, you can proceed to puttying work.

Attention! The width of the strip of light provided by hidden light sources, as well as its intensity and brightness, directly depend on the depth of the niche and the height of the side.

The device of two-level ceilings with lighting

As a rule, when there is a desire to arrange additional lighting after the ceiling is sheathed with drywall, light sources such as spotlights are used.. They are convenient in that they can be directed anywhere in the room, especially if they are placed in the corners. However, if the installation of two-level ceilings is yet to be, you can take care of other lighting options.

In particular, point sources of illumination are very interesting, the modifications of which are very diverse. But, in view of the fact that in a niche the lamp is usually hidden from prying eyes, you can not be sophisticated in choosing the most beautiful spotlight. Can be installed in a niche and soffit. A completely different matter is the LED strip, which is a set of tiny light sources on a flexible basis. There are also diodes enclosed in a transparent tubular sheath. It is better to choose the most suitable option before building a two-level ceiling in order to connect the appliances to the mains during installation work.

In this article you will find information on how to make a two-level ceiling with your own hands. And also consider the necessary details for work and tips for saving money. You can find out where to buy drywall and other sheet materials.

They say that successful repairs in a house start from the ceiling. There is some truth in this, because a beautiful and original ceiling will be the hallmark of the room, giving it a unique design and comfort.

The so-called two-level plasterboard ceilings have come into fashion, which you can easily do with your own hands. Such a decorative element is very original and allows the owner to experiment with the sketch himself during repair work and installation. You can mount a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, inventing personally a peculiar shape and design look of the ceiling.

The ceiling can be mounted in the kitchen and in the hall, in the bedroom and in the bathroom. According to a simple scheme, you can understand how to make a ceiling in the garage.

And thanks to the minimum of details, more and more men became interested in how to make a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands. This is a great way to carry out a modern renovation without extra costs for the work of a master, a designer, having come up with a sketch and turning it into reality.

After reading the detailed instructions for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling, it will become clear that creating beauty on your own is real. Our tips and tricky secrets on the technology of collecting a two-level plasterboard ceiling will be understood by a novice and experienced craftsman.


Before starting work, determine a few points and prepare a work plan. Do-it-yourself installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands can be done even by one person, but you need to prepare before starting installation.

At the start, determine the essential nuances:

Where will the installation take place? Having decided on the room in which the repair will be, consider all the characteristics and methods of operation. For example, if this is a kitchen, then it will be hot there while cooking, and air and oil vapors will rise up.

If this is a renovation in the bathroom, then you should pay special attention to moist and warm air. So you can accurately and correctly select the drywall necessary for work: moisture resistant, very durable or with detergent properties, thick and strong or light and thin.

Practice the sketching technique, because before direct installation it is better to draw everything on paper and prepare drawings for the necessary details. Transfer the entire projection directly to the ceiling. On the sketches, mark the location of the lamps or the transition of colors.

Before installing the ceiling and purchasing materials, select the type of frame on which the drywall will be attached. Most often, wooden bars (cheap and cheerful) or a metal profile (stable, easy to install, flexible and pliable) act as the material for fasteners.

The most popular type of drywall, which is used for mounting almost any ceiling, is drywall with a width of 9.5 millimeters. For its fixation and reliable operation, self-tapping screws with a length of 25 millimeters are optimally suited.

Note! Plasterboard ceiling sheet (hl), despite the thickness and strength, can crumble, break, so be extremely careful when cutting out parts. Carefully work with self-tapping screws - if you press them a little harder against the drywall, it can crack already on the ceiling, and dismantling the material will take a lot of effort.

Before preparing for the installation of drywall, free the ceiling from lamps, fixtures, decor, wires, cables. When assembling the frame, remember the safety rules.

Two-level plasterboard ceiling - step by step instructions

To properly install a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to prepare for the process. We will try to prove that it is easy to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, I do not turn to the services of a specialist. Even the simplest installation scheme for a two-tier plasterboard ceiling will save you time and money.

The step by step guide looks like this:

1 step - design

Decide on the design, the type of ceiling and design it on paper. Then transfer the lines, contours to the ceiling in real size. Draw lines until all points, straight lines and curves are even.

2 step - begin to install the frame

Outline the marks and start installing the frame from a metal profile or wooden bars. If you are making a metal frame, then on the guide elements you need to make cuts with metal scissors. The interval of incisions is 10-15 centimeters. In further work, you will bend the incisions in order to give the ceiling the desired shape. So working with metal at a height will be much easier.

Note! It is best to work with metal in protective clothing, gloves and goggles - this way you will reduce the chance of injury during work.

3 step - fix the profile

Fix the finished guide metal profile with self-tapping screws on the ceiling. Make sure that you move in the direction of the drawn lines and do not go beyond the boundaries.

On video: installation instructions for a frame for a two-level ceiling from a profile

Note! Before fixing the first parts of the ceiling, it is important to determine what material the ceiling in the house is made of. If it is concrete, then dowels must be inserted into the metal profile. And if the ceiling is made of wooden overlapped, then the guide profile must be fixed with self-tapping screws into the beams.

4 step - fix the side strip

Cut out and attach the side strip of the wall of the future two-level ceiling to the attached profile. Remember that the selected width for this strip will then determine the overall vertical dimension of the entire structure. The width of the strip will depend on how high your room is and how low you want the ceiling to go.

5 step - install drywall

Continue to mount drywall strips, checking their stability. Make sure that all elements fit well and tightly to each other and there are no gaps or crevices anywhere. Drive self-tapping screws tightly into the cardboard so that the caps press the material and do not stick out higher.

6 step - trim the front

Continue the installation of drywall strips until the sheathing of the front of the ceiling is completed. Check the quality of your work and finish the nuances.

7 step - mount the second line

The next step is to install the second line from the guide profile on the bottom edge of the first fixed strip. We carry out the installation in the same way as on the first line.

Advice! A screwdriver is suitable for fastening self-tapping screws. Screw the self-tapping screws to the end with an interval of 15 centimeters so that the ceiling holds and does not sag.

8 step - go to the second half of the ceiling

Carry out similar work on fixing the frame on the other half of the ceiling.

Note! To accurately check that the lines and guides are drawn evenly and parallel, use a level in your work. It will show the deviation percentage and you will be able to correct the shortcomings.

step 9 - strengthening the frame

When the installation of the lines is completed, it is necessary to strengthen the frame. This can be done using support profiles. The distance between each straight line of the support profile should be up to half a meter.

Note! when marking the reference lines, consider the junction of two drywall boards. There must be a jumper at the junction.

10 step – installation and calculation of jumpers

Additional strength of the frame for drywall can be achieved by installing metal hangers. All jumpers should run perpendicular to the wall and parallel to each other. Use a level to check this. If somewhere it does not match or is not fixed, check whether the guide profile is installed in the same way.

Determining the required number of suspensions is simple. If the width of your plasterboard ceiling is up to 60 centimeters, then it will be enough to place one hanger for each transverse profile. If the width is more than 60 centimeters, then two suspensions must be mounted on each jumper.


When all these processes for mounting the frame are completed, once again make sure that all metal elements are well fixed and level. After that, you can proceed to the second part of the work - sheathing the metal frame with drywall.

Fixing drywall

You have learned how to assemble the frame, now fix the drywall to the metal. The fixing of drywall sheets should occur along all guide lines and ceiling profiles every 15 centimeters.

Advice! Before starting the installation of drywall sheets, cut the necessary parts along the lines and arcs. It is better to fasten the drywall in parts, and not to trim the canopy later. If you did not guess exactly with the dimensions of the elements, then the curved edges and protrusions can then be corrected with putty.

Note! Drywall sheet is quite heavy. Installation is best done by two people, so that one person helps at least hold the drywall.

Before installing the last sheet of drywall, double-check all levels and joints. The work must be done with the utmost care.

In parallel with the installation of drywall, it is necessary to solve the nuances of cabling for technology, communications and lighting. Get all the wires under the sheets, mark the places for mounting sockets or holes for lamps and lamps. Also check if you have left tools or personal items over the drywall.


After installing the last sheet of drywall, once again check the level of all parts and evaluate the quality of the work done. Align all the edges and correct minor imperfections, make sure everything is attached well and securely. Everything needs to be leveled very carefully and accurately. That's all - now the room has a new do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling.

The next step in the work. Fixing the seams on the plasterboard ceiling with a special sickle tape and careful puttying. It is also necessary to cover the places where the screws are screwed with putty. This is necessary so that the joints do not diverge, and rust from self-tapping screws does not appear through the paint over time.


Then you need to putty the entire space of the ceiling, grind the putty with special nets and paint it in the desired color. If you don’t know how to paint a plasterboard ceiling, it’s not a problem, here you can find a lot of tips on preparing a finished work for painting or choosing a coloring material.