What can be done from old printers. We design a CNC machine
Quite often, among owners of poorly functioning or already faulty office equipment, the question comes up about what can be done from an old printer. Of course, the easiest way to solve this problem is to send a used inkjet or laser printer on . But if you have free time and some desire, then you can turn a printer into a CNC machine, i.e. equipment with numerical program controlled, which has found wide application for solving both amateur and professional problems. You can find out about this in more detail below, but first, let’s look at the question of what can be extracted from an old printing device.
Retrieving future spare parts
So, if your printer (whether inkjet or laser) has already broken down or its service life is coming to an end, then do not rush to throw it away. The fact is that it is best to disassemble old office equipment into spare parts, which can later be used to repair new printers. Multifunctional devices and devices that use matrix printing technology are best suited for analysis, because from them you can get a lot of useful things for those who want to make a CNC machine with their own hands.
- First of all, disassemble the old device into parts, and all the nuts, screws and screws may be necessary in the future, so do not throw them away, but put them in some box and put them aside. Moreover, many often have to face a situation where they do not have the necessary nut at hand.
- One of the most valuable parts in any printing device is the hardened steel guide. This is especially true for older model printers, the guides of which are very difficult to bend. But in some 3D printers they often skimp on these parts, as a result of which the guides in them can bend even under the pressure of a tensioned drive belt. High-quality and reliable steel guides are perfect for machine tools, so feel free to remove a part of this kind from your device.
- Along with the above-mentioned part comes the so-called device head sliding unit. For inkjet printers, a similar part is made of plastic, as a result of which it is only suitable for unloaded axes of CNC engravers - be sure to take this into account! As for old matrix-type devices, their assembly contains a bronze bushing - a part of this type can be safely used on homemade equipment with numerical control, which will be used for processing plastics and non-ferrous metals.
- One more important detail, which can be used for the manufacture of a machine tool is a timing belt. It is worth noting that a part of this kind is available in both the old copier and the laser MFP.
- Also, be sure to remove the stepper motors that are used to move the machine head and move the paper. A matrix device usually has a more powerful stepper motor than other types of printers. From an MFP that uses laser printing, you can take out a stepper, which is quite suitable for the production of a numerically controlled router, which will be used in domestic conditions.
Assembling the machine
Use a printer as the basis of the machine—a matrix device is an excellent option. The motors from such office equipment can be installed absolutely independently; moreover, they are durable and low-noise. In addition, get all necessary tools and small parts in the form of self-tapping screws, bearings, aluminum corners, bolts and construction studs. The tools you will need are side cutters, a file, a vice, an electric drill, pliers, a screwdriver and a hacksaw.
- At the first stage, take and cut two pieces of plywood square shape 370x370 mm for the side walls, one 90x340 mm for the front and 340x370 mm for the rear wall.
- The walls for the future machine must be fastened using self-tapping screws. To do this, make holes in advance using a drill at a distance of 6 mm to the edge.
- You should use aluminum corners as guides along the Y-axis. Make a 2 mm tongue to attach these corners to the side walls of the machine body at a distance of 3 cm from its bottom. The corners must be screwed through the central surface using self-tapping screws.
- For the manufacture of work surface You should use 14 cm long corners. One 608 bearing should be secured to the bolts from below.
- Make an exit for the Y-axis motor about 5 cm from the bottom. Also drill a hole in the front wall with a diameter of 7 mm so that the propeller support bearing can be inserted there.
- As for the stroke screw itself, it can be made from a hairpin construction type. It will interact with the motor using a clutch. The latter can be done absolutely independently.
- Make holes in the M8 nut, the diameter of which should be 2.5 mm.
- To make the X axis, you need to use steel guides, which can be found in the body of an old printer. From there, take out the carriages that will be put on the axles.
- The base of the Z-axis must be made of a material such as No6 plywood. Fix the plywood elements to each other using PVA glue. Make another running nut.
- Instead of a spindle, install a Dremel in the CNC machine, which will have a holder made of a bracket for the board. Make a hole at the bottom, the diameter of which should be 19 mm, so that the Dremel can be inserted there. Next comes fixing the bracket with a self-tapping screw to the base of the Z axis.
- To make supports intended for the Z axis, it is necessary to use plywood with a base of 15 by 9 cm. Its upper and lower sides should be equal to 5x9 cm. You will also need to drill corresponding outlets for the guides.
- At the last stage, you will need to assemble the Z axis with the Dremel bracket, as well as install it into the body of the practical finished machine.
Overall, as you can see, old printer can be an excellent basis for the manufacture of a CNC machine. Of course, if your skill and skills to create such equipment are not enough, then it is better to disassemble the old device into components that you may need in the future to repair a new printer.
By placing the moving mechanisms that move the head in the CD/DVD drive at an angle of 90, we get an XY platform with a very small construction area, but with very high positioning accuracy
Using the laser head positioning from the CD drive mechanism to build a high-precision XY platform is not new idea: builders.reprap.org/2010/08/selective-laser-sintering-part-8.html
Step 5: Assembling the X-Y Platform from Used Ear CD Drives
First, we collect a stack of old drives. Open the tray using a paper clip. You may have to try several drives before you find one with a stepper motor. At least half of the ones we took apart had a DC motor. If anyone knows how to tell them apart by appearance, please let us know.
They can be easily distinguished from each other by disassembling the drive: DC has two wires, and Stepper 4 and a short cable.
Unlike DC, stepper motors are designed to move a specific number of steps, with each step representing part of a full revolution. This makes it convenient for high-precision positioning, without the need to create a system feedback, which checks the position of the head. For example, 3D printers typically use stepper motors to position the print head.
After checking some serial numbers online, we came across a well-documented bipolar stepper motor labeled PL15S-020. The other engines found are very similar to it, so they probably have the same parameters.
Technical data: robocup.idi.ntnu.no/wiki/images/c/c6/PL15S020.pdf
This stepper motor takes 20 steps per revolution (not a lot, but enough), and the lead screw has a step of 3 mm per revolution. Thus, each step is equal to 150 microns of movement of the laser head - not bad!
On the Arduino.cc website we found circuits for bipolar stepper motors, as well as example code for controlling them. We ordered several SN754410NE H-bridges to implement the circuit shown in the last picture. 
Old CD / DVD drives have many other interesting components! Including the opening/closing mechanism tray containing a low-speed gear DC motor, the spindle motor that rotates the CD is generally a high-performance brushless DC motor, which can be used in toy airplanes and helicopters. Plus, a bunch of switches, potentiometers, damn lasers, and even solenoids! In general, extract everything!!!
Step 6: Put it all together
Materials:
- Two mechanisms for moving the laser head with stepper motors (preferably identical) from old drives. Cost: a few dollars each.
- One InkShield kit, with cartridge and cartridge holder. Cost: $57
- Optional: optional HP C6602 ink cartridge. Cost: $17
- Arduino Uno. Cost: $30
- Two SN754410NE H-Bridge Motor. Cost: $5
- Arduino prototyping kit and/or tiny bread board. Cost: $4-21
- Wires, screws, stands, housings. Cost: from free to $$$, depending on your imagination.
Total production costs were about $150, including shipping and handling costs. The photo above shows two different models. The second version has a top plate made of high-quality acrylic and large internal space.
The CD drive's moving mechanism, located at the bottom, moves the blue plate on which you print something (for example, an agarose plate). The top drive mechanism, mounted at right angles, moves the inkjet print head. We used Shapelock and some screws to secure the bottom platform to the laser head, and secure the cartridge holder to the top laser head. The electronics consist of an Arduino Uno on the bottom, a white InkShield (connected to an inkjet cartridge holder with a nice white ribbon cable), and a protoboard with stepper motors on top.
Checkered paper strips on the lower and upper platforms allow us to track the position along the X and Y axes. total area The print speed is approximately 1.5 inches in both directions, with a resolution of 150 microns per step. It should be noted that the resolution of stepper motors is similar to the resolution of the print head: 96 dpi 265 micron pitch, but the dots printed by the print head are clearly separated - more like 150-200 microns.
Step 7: Success
This is our first truly working Bioprinter. We refilled the E. coli liquid culture cartridge + pGLO. Slightly modified "I"<3 InkShield» DEMO Arduino, которое шло с InkShield, и напечатали пару строк «I <3 BioCurious» снова и снова на агаровой пластине. Агара была заполнена почти до самого верха, чтобы свести к минимуму расстояние печати.
As you can see, printing with live E.coli cells works great! We probably let the bacteria colony take longer to develop, so the letters are a little blurry. We got small colonies spraying into the corners of the cell - probably due to some spraying from the jet head. We can improve quality by adjusting the viscosity or density of the culture cells loaded into the cartridge.
But overall, not bad for the first time!
After printing, we sanitized the surface and inside of the cartridge with bleach, and then ran some bleach through the head. Then we washed everything with distilled water.
It would probably be a good idea to invest in ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, which can also destroy organic substances in the most inaccessible places.
Step 8: Lesson Learned and Future Plans
We approached this project with virtually zero experience with Bioprinting, stepper motors, inkjet cartridges, or even Arduino programming! Therefore, naturally, not all of our actions were optimal. Here are some things we might do differently next time:We gained some really valuable experience by learning how stepper motors work, but we could save a lot of time and effort by adapting some of the RAMPS (RepRap Arduino MEGA Pololu Shield) technology, which was already well developed for exactly this purpose in the 3D printing community. In particular, the Pololu stepper motor already had built-in microstepping capabilities.
Building your own XY platform is great! But we're using these stepper motors for things they were never intended for, which is starting to show itself. We're already getting some issues with the bottom stage sometimes skipping, apparently due to frequent manual resets wearing out the plastic parts. It was easy enough to buy new stepper motors to hold them, add some microswitches for the end stops, and code the position reset function in the software.
Once you start looking for new stepper motors and RAMPS electronics, the question becomes why not start straight away with 3D printers instead? If we are tired of our current version of the bioprinter, it is probably because of the chosen direction. The cost will most likely increase by an order of magnitude anyway, although...
Having one print head has its limitations. If we really wanted to do some kind of tissue engineering, we would like to be able to print multiple types of cells. We could potentially put two ink cartridges next to each other. The Big Boys' solution in this area is the use of syringe pumps. Imagine having several syringe pumps next to a printer, each delivering its own print material through a thin tube, with needles mounted on the print head. Stay tuned…
Now it's a bull in a china shop... What the hell are you doing with your own bioprinter?! I don't think BioCurious will ever compete with companies like Organovo in terms of printing human tissue or organs. On the one hand, maintaining animal cells takes much more effort. Plant cells are much easier to work with! I don't want things to go to waste, so keep an eye out for some of our next tutorials!
In the meantime, here are some ideas:
Print gradients of nutrients and/or antibiotics onto a layer of cells to study combinatorial interactions - or even to select different isolates from an environmental sample.
- Printing growth factor patterns onto a layer of eukaryotic cells to study cell differentiation.
- Print two or more types of microorganisms at different distances from each other to study metabolic interactions.
- Setting up a computational task as a 2D model of the construction of a microorganism on an agar plate.
- Study of reaction-diffusion systems
- Printing 3D structures using repeated layer printing. Now you can consider making everything taller in 3D!
- Print cells in a sodium alginate solution, on a surface impregnated with calcium chloride, to create 3D gel structures (similar to the spherification process in molecular gastronomy)
Any other ideas? Leave them in the comments!
Step 9: Added: So what do you want to do for real science?
The bioprinter shown here is obviously just a prototype. But since we have had very serious requests for using this in academic labs, here are some recommendations:Dolphin Dean's group at Clemson University is working on Bioprinting using a modified HP DeskJet 500. Definitely check out their video on JoVE on Creating Transient Cell Membrane Pores Using a Standard Inkjet Printer! Loads of information on how to deal with inkjet printers used as laboratory equipment, how to clean cartridges, prepare appropriate cell suspensions, and some intriguing non-3D printing applications.
We have not yet received satisfactory evidence that HP C6602 cartridges can print eukaryotic cells. We believe that this is most likely due to the print head being clogged with cell breakdown products. We will keep you updated on the use of ultrasonic cleaning machines...
In order to make a CNC machine from a printer with your own hands, you will need the following available materials:
- spare parts from several printers (in particular the drive and pins);
- hard drive drive;
- several sheets of chipboard or plywood, furniture guides;
- controller and driver;
- fastening materials.
1. The base is a box made of chipboard. You can take a ready-made one or make it yourself. We immediately take into account that the internal capacity of the box must accommodate all the electronic filling, so the height of the side is calculated from the height of the board with parts, fastenings and reserve to the table surface. The base and frame are assembled from chipboard using self-tapping screws. In this case, all parts must be level and secured at right angles.
2. The machine axes must be secured to the base cover. There are three of them - x y z. First we attach the y axis. To make the guide, a furniture runner on ball bearings is used.
It is better to use two guides for two horizontal axes, otherwise the axes will have significant play. For the vertical axis, the role of the guide is played by the remains of the hard drive, the part where the laser moved.
The rod from the printer is used as a lead screw. In this case, threaded screws with a diameter of 8 mm are made for the horizontal x y axes. For the vertical z axis, a threaded screw with a diameter of 6 mm was used. Drives from old printers are used as a stepper motor. One drive per axle.
3. The pin is attached to the plane using a metal angle.
The motor shaft is connected to the stud through a flexible coupling. All three axes are attached to the base through a chipboard frame. In this design, the milling cutter will move only in the vertical plane, and the movement of the part is carried out due to the horizontal movement of the platform.
4. The electronic unit consists of a controller and a driver. The controller is made on Soviet K155TM7 microcircuits; for this case, three were used.
From each chip, wires go to the driver of each of the three motors. The driver is made on a transistor. The drive uses KT 315, transistors KT 814, KT 815. From these transistors, an electrical signal is supplied to the winding of the electric drive.
At normal operating voltage, motors may overheat due to the lack of busbars in the electronic unit. To prevent this, a computer cooler must be used for each engine.
Video: a simple DIY CNC machine for beginners.
Electronic filling
There are two options:
- You arm yourself with a soldering iron, flux, solder, a magnifying glass, and understand the chips from the printer. Locate the 12F675 and LB1745 printer control boards. Work with them by creating a CNC control board. You will need to attach them to the back of the CNC machine, under the power supply (we also take it from the long-suffering printer).
- Use the factory CNC machine controller. Offhand – a five-axis CNC controller. Homemade electronics are wonderful, but the Chinese are heavily dumping on prices. So, with a light click of the mouse, we order the CNC from them, because in Russia you cannot buy such a CNC device. CNC controller 5 Axis CNC Breakout Board allows you to connect 3 inputs of limit motors, a shutdown button, automated control of a dremel and as many as 5 drivers for controlling a stepper motor of a homemade machine.
This CNC is powered by a USB cable. In a homemade version of the CNC, you need to power the control board based on printer chips from the power supply of the CNC machine.
A stepper motor for a homemade CNC machine will have to be selected with a power of up to 35 volts. At other powers, the CNC controller runs the risk of burning out.
Remove the power supply from the printer. Connect the wiring between the power supply, the on/off switch, the CNC controller and the Dremel.
Connect the wire from the laptop/PC to the machine control board. Otherwise, how will you load tasks into the machine? By the way, about assignments: download the Math3 program for drawing sketches. For non-industrial design professionals, CorelDraw will do.
You can cut plywood (up to 15 mm), textolite up to 3 mm, plastic, wood with a homemade CNC machine. The products will be no more than 30-32 cm in length.
Most people have equipment that is no longer working, or a device with severe technical damage. Naturally, such equipment is thrown away, but some people have a very working question: “What benefits can be obtained?” Even old devices can be used on the farm. In this article I wanted to talk about an ordinary printer.
Breadbox or minibar
Given enough time, almost any old printer can be converted into some interesting things. For example, after completely clearing the printer of all unnecessary parts, the resulting form must be covered with cloth. A small convenient space can be used at personal discretion, like a mini-bar, or even a bread bin. It will also work as a good hiding place.
More skilled people will be able to even make a CNC machine from an ordinary cheap inkjet printing device. The device must be disassembled into its components. Among the valuable and necessary parts we select a hardened steel guide; the set includes a toothed drive belt, as well as a printer head sliding unit, along with stepper motors. The set also includes limit switches, in the manufacture of CNC machines, to limit failure and damage. From the received components you can see that there are almost all the necessary parts to assemble a CNC machine.
There is one more remarkable detail in the printer - a board with high-voltage converters. It is worth noting that the procedure is very dangerous. You will need knowledge in electronics, otherwise you should not put yourself in danger. However, in the end we get a nice shocker keychain.
Printers have powerful motors to which you can attach blades and generate electricity, for example in a country house.
It is important to remember to be careful when constructing such devices. These and many other ideas exist for old devices, like a printer, that are easy to adapt.
This article was taken from a foreign website and translated by me personally. Contributed this article.
This project describes the design of a very low budget 3D printer that is primarily built from recycled electronic components.
The result is a small format printer for less than $100.
First of all, we will learn how the general CNC system works (assembly and calibration, bearings, guides), and then teach the machine to respond to G-code instructions. After that, we add a small plastic extruder and give commands to the plastic extrusion calibration, driver power settings and other operations that will give life to the printer. Following these instructions will give you a small 3D printer that is built with approximately 80% recycled components, which gives it great potential and helps reduce the cost significantly.
On the one hand, you get an introduction to mechanical engineering and digital fabrication, and on the other hand, you get a small 3D printer built from reused electronic components. This should help you become more proficient in dealing with problems associated with e-waste disposal.
Step 1: X, Y and Z.
Required components:
- 2 standard CD/DVD drives from an old computer.
- 1 floppy drive.
We can get these components for free by contacting a repair service center. We want to make sure that the motors we use from floppy drives are stepper motors and not DC motors.
Step 2: Preparing the Motor
Components:
3 stepper motors from CD/DVD drives.
1 NEMA 17 stepper motor what should we buy. We use this type of motor for plastic extruder where there is a lot of force needed to handle the plastic filament.
CNC electronics: PLATFORMS or RepRap Gen 6/7. Important, we can use Sprinter/Marlin Open Firmware. In this example we're using RepRap Gen6 electronics, but you can choose based on price and availability.
PC power supply.
Cables, socket, heat shrink tubing.
The first thing we want to do is once we have said stepper motors, we can solder wires to them. In this case we have 4 cables for which we must maintain the appropriate color sequence (described in the datasheet).
Specification for stepper motors CD/DVD: Download. .
Specification for NEMA 17 Stepper Motor: Download. .
Step 3: Prepare the Power Supply
The next step is to prepare the power in order to use it for our project. First of all, we connect the two wires to each other (as indicated in the picture) so that there is direct power from the switch to the stand. After that we select one yellow (12V) and one black wire (GND) to power the controller.
Step 4: Checking the Motors and the Arduino IDE Program
Now we are going to check the engines. To do this we need to download the Arduino IDE (physical computing environment), can be found at: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.
We need to download and install Arduino 23 version.
After this we must download the firmware. We chose Marlin, which is already configured and can be downloaded by Marlin: Download. .
After we have installed Arduino, we will connect our computer to Ramp/Sanguino/Gen6-7 CNC controller via USB cable, we will select the corresponding serial port under Arduino IDE tools/serial port, and we will select the controller type under board tools ( Ramps (Arduino Mega 2560), Sanguinololu/Gen6 (Sanguino W/ATmega644P - Sanguino must be installed inside Arduino)).
Basic explanation of the parameter, all configuration parameters are in the configuration.h file:
In the Arduino environment we will open the firmware, we already have the /Sketchbook/Marlin file downloaded and we will see the configuration options before we download the firmware to our controller.
1) #define MOTHERBOARD 3, according to the real hardware we use (Ramps 1.3 or 1.4 = 33, Gen6 = 5, ...).
2) Thermistor 7, RepRappro uses Honeywell 100k.
3) PID - this value makes our laser more stable in terms of temperature.
4) Step by one, this is a very important point in order to configure any controller (step 9)
Step 5: Printer. Computer management.
Controlling the printer via a computer.
Software: There are various, freely available programs that allow us to interact and control the printer (Pronterface, Repetier, ...) we use the Repetier host, which you can download from http://www.repetier.com/. It's easy to install and combines layers. A slicer is a piece of software that generates a sequence of sections of the object we want to print, associates those sections with layers, and generates G-code for the machine. Slices can be adjusted using parameters such as layer height, print speed, infill, and others that are important for print quality.
Common slicer configurations can be found in the following links:
- Skeinforge configuration: http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/wiki/index.php/Skeinforge
- Slic3r configuration: http://manual.slic3r.org/
In our case we have a profile configuret Skeinforge for the printer, which can be integrated into the receiving write head software.
Step 6: Adjust Current and Intensity
Now we are ready to test the printer motors. Connect the computer and machine controller using a USB cable (the motors must be connected to the appropriate sockets). Launch Repetier hosting and activate communication between the software and the controller by selecting the appropriate serial port. If the connection is successful, you will be able to control the connected motors using the manual control on the right.
In order to avoid motors overheating during regular use, we will adjust the current so that each motor can receive an even load.
To do this, we will connect only one motor. We will repeat this operation for each axis. For this we need a multimeter attached in series between the power supply and the controller. The multimeter must be set to amplifier (current) mode - see figure.
Then we will connect the controller to the computer again, turn it on and measure the current using a multimeter. When we manually activated the motor through the Repetier interface, the current must increase by a certain number of milliamps (which is the current to activate the stepper motor). For each axis, the current is slightly different, depending on the pitch of the motor. You will have to adjust the small potentiometer to control the step interval and set the current limit for each axis according to the following control values:
The board conducts a current of about 80 mA
We will apply 200mA current to the X and Y axis steppers.
400mA for Z-axis, this is required due to the higher power required to raise the write head.
400 mA to power the extruder motor, since it is a high current consumer.
Step 7: Creating the Structure Machine
In the following link you will find the necessary templates for lasers that cut out parts. We used 5mm thick acrylic plates, but other materials such as wood can be used, depending on availability and price.
Laser settings and examples for the Auto Cad program: Download. .
The frame design makes it possible to build the machine without glue: all parts are assembled using mechanical connections and screws. Before laser cutting out parts of the frame, make sure the motor is well secured in the CD/DVD drive. You will have to measure and modify the holes in the CAD template.
Step 8: Calibrate X, Y and Z Axis
Although the downloaded Marlin firmware already has a standard calibration for axis resolution, you will have to go through this step if you want to fine-tune your printer. Here you will be told about microprograms that allow you to set the laser pitch down to the millimeter; your machine actually needs these precise settings. This value depends on the pitches of your motor and the thread size of the moving rods of your axles. By doing this, we will make sure that the machine's movement actually matches the distances in the G-code.
This knowledge will allow you to build a CNC machine yourself, regardless of the component types and sizes.
In this case, X, Y and Z have the same threaded rods so the calibration values will be the same for them (some may be different if you use different components for different axes).
- Pulley radius.
- Steps per revolution of our stepper motor.
Micro-stepping parameters (in our case 1/16, which means that in one signal clock cycle, only 1/16 of the step is executed, giving higher precision to the system).
We set this value in the firmware ( stepsper millimeter).
For Z axis:
Using the Controller (Repetier) interface we configure the Z axis, which allows us to move a certain distance and measure the actual displacement.
As an example, we'll command it to move 10mm and measure an offset of 37.4mm.
There is an N number of steps defined in stepspermillimeter in the firmware (X = 80, Y = 80, Z = 2560, EXTR = 777.6).
N = N * 10 / 37.4
The new value should be 682.67.
We repeat this for 3 or 4 times, recompiling and reloading the firmware for the controller, we get higher accuracy.
In this project we did not use the final settings to make the machine more precise, but they can easily be included in the firmware and it will be ready for us.
We are ready for the first test, we can use the pen to check that the distances in the drawing are correct.
We will assemble the direct drive as shown in the picture by attaching the stepper motor to the main frame.
For calibration, the flow of plastic should correspond to a piece of plastic thread and distance (for example 100 mm), put a piece of tape. Then go to Repetier Software and click extrude 100mm, real distance and repeat Step 9 (operation).
Step 10: Printing the first object
The device should now be ready for the first test. Our extruder uses 1.75mm diameter plastic filament, which is easier to extrude and more flexible than the standard 3mm diameter. We will be using PLA plastic, which is a bio-plastic and has some advantage over ABS: it melts at a lower temperature, making printing easier.
Now, in Repetier, we activate the profile slicing that is available for Skeinforge cutting. Download .
We print a small calibration cube (10x10x10mm) on the printer, it will print very quickly and we will be able to detect configuration problems and motor step loss by checking the actual size of the printed cube.
So, to start printing, open the STL model and slice it using the standard profile (or the one you downloaded) from Skeinforge cutting: we will see a representation of the sliced object and the corresponding G-code. We heat up the extruder and when it reaches the melting temperature of the plastic (190-210C depending on the plastic grade) we extrude some material (extrusion press) to see that everything is working properly.
We set the origin relative to the extrusion head (x = 0, y = 0, z = 0) and use paper as a separator; the head should be as close to the paper as possible, but not touching it. This will be the starting position for the extrusion head. From there we can start printing.