How to insulate gas silicate blocks from the outside. A practical guide to insulating a house from gas silicate blocks outside Who can say how to insulate gas silicate

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How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks in two affordable ways

Newfangled gas silicate blocks in individual construction are now in great demand. There are many reasons for this, they are light, not expensive, easy to install, and most importantly, they have extremely low thermal conductivity. But the material is new and people have reasonable questions, is it necessary to insulate such houses, what is the best way to insulate them and how to do it right? Today I will talk in detail about the two most common and simple ways of self-insulation.

Why is it necessary to insulate gas silicate structures at all?

Indeed, it is not clear to any normal person, far from building wisdom, why it is necessary to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside at all, if the blocks themselves are porous, and therefore warm material. In a nutshell, the answer is simple, you need to insulate the house because this material has a fairly high hygroscopicity, that is, the blocks are easily saturated with moisture.

Since you are reading my article, it means that you have probably heard how the ubiquitous advertising promises that this material can be used to build houses with a wall thickness of almost 300 mm, that is, half a block. As usual, cunning managers do not tell the whole truth. In theory, the insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside can really not be done, just get by with high-quality reinforced plaster.

But only the thickness of such “bare” walls, even for the warmest regions of our great power, starts from 600 mm. In the middle lane, this value fluctuates around a meter. Naturally, the lower the average annual temperature in the region, the more massive the structure should be. To make it easier for you to understand, I have compiled a table with the running dimensions of the blocks.

If you are interested in accurate calculations and clear instructions, then there are 2 regulatory documents for this. SNiP II-3-79-2005 is responsible for data on building heat engineering. And the calculations for building climatology are displayed in SNiP 23-01-99-2003.

The gas block itself comes in different brands. The higher the brand, the denser and better the array, I have collected the main characteristics in the table below. As a rule, for low-rise private construction, the D500 or D600 brand is used.

When they build a bath, sometimes they take the D700, but this is not a dogma. I believe that for small one-story structures, on the contrary, you can take the D400, in any case, thin walls will have to be insulated, so why pay more.

Now let's move on to the question of why it is necessary to carry out the insulation of walls from gas silicate blocks from the outside. Saving internal usable space is just a side reason.

External insulation eliminates 2 problems at once: on the one hand, we reduce the thermal conductivity of a thin wall by several times, and on the other hand, we move the dew point away from the surface and provide protection from moisture. As a result, the structures are not saturated with moisture, which means they do not freeze through.

With the theoretical part, I think it's time to finish and slowly move towards practice. After all, in the end, you came to our resource more in order to learn how to properly equip your home or bath.

Two common ways to insulate houses from gas blocks

Both methods I propose are approximately equally popular. But the instructions for the Wet Facade technology are much simpler, especially for beginners. And no less important, the price of such an arrangement is about half lower.

Method number 1. "Wet facade"

The principle of this arrangement is that the insulation is glued directly to the walls of the house, after which they need to be plastered. But first, let's define the insulation itself.

• You have probably noticed that now, both on television and on the net, extruded polystyrene foam is widely advertised. I had to work with him, the material is really high quality. Now it is produced by many companies, respectively, and it can be called differently, the most common products under the brand name "Penoplex".
  But I am convinced that it is not worth mounting it on aerated concrete. Penoplex, in addition to the function of insulation, is a good waterproofing agent and such a “shirt” completely blocks the vapor permeability of the walls, which is highly undesirable in our case. Plus, such insulation will cost a round sum;

• The second option is mineral, more precisely basalt wool.. It certainly costs less than Penoplex and with vapor permeability there is a complete order. But it is not suitable for facade work, as it is afraid of moisture, suffice it to say that when a basalt slab is moistened by 1%, its thermal conductivity increases by 7 - 9%, and this is almost the main characteristic. In other words, any crack or accidental damage to the plaster layer will lead to a serious decrease in thermal insulation qualities;

• In my deep conviction, for aerated concrete, the most acceptable material for "Wet facade" is ordinary foam plastic with a density of about 25 kg / m³. Firstly, the material is light and does not require serious mounting hardware. Secondly, its level of thermal conductivity is about the same as that of basalt wool. And most importantly, the foam is a vapor-permeable coating and is not afraid of moisture. Plus, from my own experience I can say that the price of such a cladding is much lower than both previous options.

Now you can move on to the step-by-step algorithm of actions. As I said, gas silicate walls absorb water like a sponge. Therefore, the first thing to do is to prime the surface well.

Moreover, if two layers of deep penetration soil are sufficient for expanded clay concrete, brick or cinder block walls, then there should be at least four of them. Plus, you can start arranging only after the last layer has completely dried.

The sheets will stick. Naturally, we need glue. Personally, I used Ceresit CT83 dry mix for this.

In general, it is intended for polystyrene foam, but it goes under the foam plastic, already running. There is an instruction on the pack, it is not complicated, everything is done as usual, Ceresit is diluted with water and brought to the desired consistency using a construction mixer.

I applied glue to the sheet with a notched trowel, a continuous layer over the entire surface. In this case, it’s not worth saving, spot or linear application of the adhesive is suitable for bricks, but here the sheet should be in close contact with the wall. Plus, the composition itself has serious protective characteristics.

On average, the thickness of the walls in a two or three-story private cottage is about half a meter. The bath can be made in half a block of 300 mm.

Theoretically, with such dimensions, a foam sheet of 50 mm is sufficient for aerated concrete. But I always recommend making a layer of 100 mm. In terms of cost, the difference is small, and the stock has not bothered anyone yet.

There is a little trick here. In general, sheets are glued to the wall according to the principle of brickwork, that is, each subsequent row is done with a shift of about half the sheet. No matter how hard you try to fit the sheets tightly, there will still be gaps somewhere. Such gaps can be filled with glue, but it is better with mounting foam.

So that the sheets do not “float”, they need to be glued from the bottom up, and the bottom row should rest on a solid foundation. Usually this is a protrusion of a concrete strip foundation, but if there is none, you should fix a special starting L-shaped profile or at least a UD profile for drywall, the load here is small, so it will be enough.

According to technology, after the glue has set well, the foam must be additionally fixed on the wall with plastic dowels with umbrellas (wide hats). After that, a layer of glue about 2 mm thick is applied to the foam, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh of sickle is embedded in this glue, and after drying it is covered with another glue ball. Next comes the decorative plaster.

But I do it a little differently. First, I put glue on the foam plastic and drown the sickle in it. On top of the mesh, until the glue has finally set, I fix it all with umbrellas. As usual at five points on the sheet, 4 in the corners and one in the center.

But you need to act quickly. When the umbrella caps are "recessed", you can leave the wall alone until it dries. Next, we act according to the technology, a layer, drying and a layer of decorative plaster.

Method number 2. "Ventilated facade"

Mounting a ventilated system with your own hands is a little more difficult than a facade using the technology described above, but such work is worth the effort, the end result here is an order of magnitude higher. In general, there are two options for a ventilated facade. The first uses the so-called thermal panels. The second is for siding installation.

The thermal panel is actually a ready-made finishing insulating system. Expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is used as a heater, a sheet of waterproof OSB is taken as the basis, and the finishing front layer is most often made of clinker facade tiles. Although there are options for finishing under natural stone or porcelain stoneware. Naturally, such pleasure costs serious money.

Thermal panels can be mounted in two ways. It is easier, of course, to glue them on Ceresit, but in the case of gas silicate walls, it is not suitable, the material cannot be clogged. Therefore, only the ventilated facade system is suitable for us.

• Thermal panels are much heavier than polystyrene foam, so there must be a rigid base at the bottom. As in the system described above, the projection of the concrete foundation is best suited for the support. If it is not there, then with a step of 200 mm, an L-shaped starting strip is fixed with anchors for gas silicate;

If you had to work with aerated concrete, then keep in mind that not every dowel will fit here. To fix loaded structures, you need to take special anchors, they consist of a metal tube and a bolt with a nut inside it. When screwing the "tail" of the anchor, the one that is inside the block, bursts and the structure is rigidly fixed.

• For the installation of thermal panels, a crate made of galvanized metal UD profiles is used. These profiles should rest on a horizontal starting bar and be fixed vertically in increments of 40 cm parallel to the wall;
• According to classical technology, they must be attached to metal suspensions. Between themselves, the suspensions are mounted at a distance of half a meter and fixed with a pair of anchors;
• But this technology provides for the provision of a large gap for the installation of intermediate insulation with mineral wool or foam. In our case, it is only necessary to provide a ventilation gap of 20 - 30 mm. And for this, suspensions are not needed, the guides can be mounted directly on the wall.

Just do not forget to make a few "vents", as a rule, they are displayed in the attic or in any dry room. Tandem gas block + thermal panel, enough for central Russia;

• Then everything is simple. The bottom row is mounted first. The panel rests on the starting strip and is fixed to the UD profiles or directly to the wall with self-tapping screws;
• Naturally, the rows are mounted with a shift. The tightness of the connection is ensured by the presence of special docking grooves along the perimeter of each panel;
• When the work is completed, the fixing screws are rubbed with a special compound, in the color of the main cladding material. Approximately the same as the gaps between the tiles are rubbed.

Now let's talk about the ventilated facade for siding. This option is much more common. After all, here, in addition to a large selection of polymer siding options, you can mount the same wooden block house, as a result of which the house takes on a solid, expensive look. Plus, as insulation, you can use both foam and mats of dense mineral wool.

Professionals prefer to mount such a ventilated facade based on a metal frame. It is equipped using the same technology as thermal panels, only the guides are mounted on wide suspensions. At the same time, the width of the suspensions is selected so that the insulation fits, plus it is possible to pull the wind protection, and there is still a standard gap of 20 - 30 mm between the siding and the wind protection.

As I mentioned, I prefer polystyrene, but basalt wool is also suitable in this case. The technology of arrangement is the same. The insulation plate is smeared with glue and inserted closely, without any gaps between the wooden guides.

The thickness of the slab and the width of the beam are the same for us, therefore, the wall turns out to be even and a windproof membrane can be easily pulled over it. This canvas is fixed between the main guides and overhead wooden planks 30x40 mm. How this is done is shown in the diagram. We need the slats to provide a gap, plus the finishing lining of your choice is attached to them.

Interior decoration of gas silicate walls

As for the interior decoration of houses, it practically does not differ from the arrangement of brick or other similar structures. As a rule, gas blocks are simply plastered or tiled. The only difference can be considered a reinforced plaster layer. Its thickness starts from 15 - 20 mm.

The first, thickest ball is a cement-sand mortar. A layer of starting gypsum plaster is applied to it, which is reinforced with sickle and, after drying, covered with a layer of finishing gypsum plaster.

Warming a bath from gas silicate blocks from the inside is not much more difficult. In the washing room, everything is done in the same way as in the case of a wet facade, only instead of decorative plaster, reinforced insulation is tiled.

With a rest room and other auxiliary facilities, it's even easier. As a rule, they are sheathed with lime lining. Therefore, a wooden crate is stuffed here and foam plastic or mineral wool is glued between the guides.

As for the steam room, foam plastic is contraindicated in it, and cotton wool, as we remember, does not tolerate moisture well. Therefore, here, first, a reinforced layer of plaster is applied to the walls. A double wooden crate is mounted on it, between the planks of which foil or foil paper is stretched. And on top, as usual, lining.

I came across cases when people attached foil penofol (polyethylene foam) to the reinforced plaster in the steam room, and there was already a crate and lining on top. So, penofol begins to decompose at a temperature of 90C. Of course, it is unlikely that it will warm up to such a temperature under the lining, but I do not recommend taking risks.

Output

Self-insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside and from the inside is a responsible task, in conclusion, I want to remind you once again that it is impossible to waterproof these walls tightly, they must “breathe”. The photo and video in this article contains additional information. If you have any questions or want to add something, write in the comments, let's chat.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Recently, the use of gas silicate blocks has become popular in the construction industry. It's pretty cheap, fast and convenient. In this regard, we will consider why insulation is needed for buildings made of this material, how to properly insulate and the better to insulate a house.

As you know, gas silicate is a porous material, which makes it warm. The thermal conductivity coefficient of cellular concrete (gas silicate) depends on the brand of this product (more details in the table), but in general, the thermal conductivity of gas silicate blocks is very low and therefore, in theory, it does not imply insulation. But not everything is so simple.

Due to their structure, the blocks are very easily saturated with water. This leads to the appearance of microcracks. As a result, the life and efficiency of the material is significantly reduced. Warming the house from gas silicate blocks from the outside solves this problem. Also, external insulation saves usable space inside the house.

Warming methods

So, how to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks? There are several ways:

• "Wet façade"

In this case, the insulation is glued to the walls of the house. This method is quite easy to perform even for those who have little experience in the construction business.

• "Ventilated facade".

This method implies a ventilated system and is more complicated than the previous method in execution.

materials

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks? There are several materials that are used as insulation for gas silicate blocks:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;

Let's talk more about these materials.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is one of the most common materials for facade insulation. Gas silicate walls are no exception. With its energy saving, it is also environmentally friendly and fireproof. Those who decide to insulate with foam plastic also note that it is quite cheap and easy to install.

What foam should be taken for such work? It all depends on your material well-being, but a fairly experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a 100 mm foam layer.

An experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a 100 mm foam layer.

Since the method of insulation for polystyrene is a "wet facade", the wall surface should be cleaned of debris and primed with a deep penetration primer. Experts advise repeating the priming procedure about five times.

Re-priming should be done only when the previous layer has dried.

The next step is pasting the foam directly onto the gas silicate blocks. For this, a dry mixture of glue is used. In the instructions on the packaging of this substance, you can find all the necessary details for working with glue.

Typically, country houses use gas silicate blocks of the D200 brand, so do not spare foam glue and apply it to the entire surface. Thus, the thermal insulation will fit snugly against the wall, which will favorably affect the insulation.

Styrofoam sheets should be fastened from the bottom up and only when the bottom sheet is already firmly glued. Why? This will help prevent the sheet from sliding off, breaking the level. For additional strength, you can install an L-shaped profile at the bottom, set according to the level.

In addition, foam boards should be fixed in the same way as bricklaying is done, that is, with a half-sheet shift. This will also increase the strength of the structure.

The gaps between the plates should be covered with glue or blown out with mounting foam. You can also do it a little differently. As mentioned above, it is advised to make a 100 mm foam layer. However, to achieve this, it is not necessary to buy plates of this thickness. It will be enough to have 50 mm plates, but glued in two layers so that the joints do not match. This will help you suffer less with blowing seams and the gas silicate insulation will be better. The downside is that this method will require a little more money.

When the glue has dried and set well, the foam is additionally fixed with plastic dowels-umbrellas. After that, a layer of glue is applied, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded, and then, after it dries, another layer of glue is applied.

The finishing touch is the application of plaster and painting or decorative plaster. It all depends on your taste here.

Mineral wool

Gas silicate is a vapor-tight material, therefore mineral wool, whose vapor permeability is a well-known fact, is suitable for insulation. It also does not burn and performs soundproofing properties.

But there are also disadvantages. For example, cotton wool absorbs water and in case of any serious damage to the plaster layer or a crack, it loses thermal insulation. Therefore, not all experts agree on whether it is possible to insulate facades with it.

We cannot say directly whether or not we can insulate our house in this way, but in any case, if you still decide to choose mineral wool as a heater, its algorithm of actions is similar to foam fixing.

To begin with, it is worth cleaning the walls of debris and dust by priming the surface of the walls from the gas silicate block. And in this case, you should not be limited to one time either. It is better to repeat several times.

Installation of slabs of cotton wool is carried out in the same way as that of polystyrene. The first row is leveled and attached to the wall with glue and dowels, which are fixed at the joints and in the middle of the slab. The next row is also set with a shift of half a plate so that the seams do not match.

After installation, you should give the insulation time to stand and dry, and only after that you can continue to work.

The next step is to apply on mineral wool. A mesh is attached to this glue, which is slightly recessed. You also need to overlap 1 cm at the junction of the mesh. After the glue dries, apply another layer.

The final step is, of course, plastering. At the same time, the house "breathes" because the plaster allows steam to pass through. However, as already mentioned, be careful, because damage to the plaster layer will have a bad effect on thermal insulation.

Thermal panels

What are thermal panels? This is a system of insulation, moisture-resistant board and facing tiles. Usually the insulation is foam or mineral wool. Well, facing tiles allow you to do without putty.

In addition, the tile protects gas silicate from mechanical damage and moisture, since it is usually made to look like brick or stone. Thus, thermal panels combine beauty and reliability.

This type of insulation refers to the "ventilated facade". Although some experts say that with such insulation the wall "does not breathe", but the ventilation holes under the visor and in the basement of the building easily solve this issue.

How is thermal insulation made? The algorithm of actions is given below

Since thermal panels are heavier than foam, the presence of an L-shaped bar under the starting row is mandatory. The bar is leveled and fixed with anchors in increments of 200 mm.

For aerated concrete, special dowels are used, the edges of which, being in the block, expand under the influence of the mechanism. This is important, because without it they simply will not hold on.

After mounting the plank, it is worth proceeding to the next step, namely the installation of the crate. Usually it consists of galvanized metal UD profiles or wooden beams. The profile is installed on the starting bar and vertically attached to the hangers parallel to the wall. Suspensions are mounted with anchors at a distance of 500 mm between them.

Thus, we sheathe the entire perimeter of the house. At the corners and slopes we put two strips each, since this is necessary for installing the corner elements of the thermal panels. At the level of the starting bar, at the bottom along the base, you need to install a low tide.

We close the space between the profiles with mineral wool or foam plastic plates. However, do not forget about the ventilation gap of 20-30 mm. We attach thermal panels to the profile using self-tapping screws. As in the case of foam boards, we mount the tiles with the same shift. Well, tightness is ensured by grooves for connecting panels.

By the way, our partners do a good job of insulating houses from gas blocks.

After work is completed, all gaps are sealed with foam, and the screws and seams are overwritten.

Also, instead of thermal panels, you can use siding. The principle of its installation is the same as for thermal panels. However, under the siding, in addition to the insulation, a windproof membrane is pulled.

So, today we looked at how to insulate a gas silicate house from the outside. We also learned how to insulate gas silicate blocks from the outside and what materials can be used for this. Of course, it is up to you to decide how to insulate the house, but we hope that this information will help in creating a cozy insulated house.

We wish you success in your endeavors!

How to insulate gas silicate blocks from the outside?

Recently, the use of gas silicate blocks has become popular in the construction industry. It's pretty cheap, fast and convenient. In this regard, we will consider why insulation is needed for buildings made of this material, how to properly insulate and the better to insulate a house.

Reasons for warming

As you know, gas silicate is a porous material, which makes it warm. The thermal conductivity coefficient of cellular concrete (gas silicate) depends on the brand of this product (more details in the table), but in general, the thermal conductivity of gas silicate blocks is very low and therefore, in theory, it does not imply insulation. But not everything is so simple.

Due to their structure, the blocks are very easily saturated with water. This leads to the appearance of microcracks. As a result, the life and efficiency of the material is significantly reduced. Warming the house from gas silicate blocks from the outside solves this problem. Also, external insulation saves usable space inside the house.

Warming methods

So, how to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks? There are several ways:

In this case, the insulation is glued to the walls of the house. This method is quite easy to perform even for those who have little experience in the construction business.

This method implies a ventilated system and is more complicated than the previous method in execution.

materials

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks? There are several materials that are used as insulation for gas silicate blocks:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• thermal panels.

Let's talk more about these materials.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is one of the most common materials for facade insulation. Gas silicate walls are no exception. With its energy saving, it is also environmentally friendly and fireproof. Those who decide to insulate with foam plastic also note that it is quite cheap and easy to install.

What foam should be taken for such work? It all depends on your material well-being, but a fairly experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a 100 mm foam layer.

An experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a 100 mm foam layer.

Since the method of insulation for polystyrene is a "wet facade", the wall surface should be cleaned of debris and primed with a deep penetration primer. Experts advise repeating the priming procedure about five times.

Re-priming should be done only when the previous layer has dried.

The next step is pasting the foam directly onto the gas silicate blocks. For this, a dry mixture of glue is used. In the instructions on the packaging of this substance, you can find all the necessary details for working with glue.

Typically, country houses use gas silicate blocks of the D200 brand, so do not spare foam glue and apply it to the entire surface. Thus, the thermal insulation will fit snugly against the wall, which will favorably affect the insulation.

Styrofoam sheets should be fastened from the bottom up and only when the bottom sheet is already firmly glued. Why? This will help prevent the sheet from sliding off, breaking the level. For additional strength, you can install an L-shaped profile at the bottom, set according to the level.

In addition, foam boards should be fixed in the same way as bricklaying is done, that is, with a half-sheet shift. This will also increase the strength of the structure.

The gaps between the plates should be covered with glue or blown out with mounting foam. You can also do it a little differently. As mentioned above, it is advised to make a 100 mm foam layer. However, to achieve this, it is not necessary to buy plates of this thickness. It will be enough to have 50 mm plates, but glued in two layers so that the joints do not match. This will help you suffer less with blowing seams and the gas silicate insulation will be better. The downside is that this method will require a little more money.

When the glue has dried and set well, the foam is additionally fixed with plastic dowels-umbrellas. After that, a layer of glue is applied, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded, and then, after it dries, another layer of glue is applied.

The finishing touch is the application of plaster and painting or decorative plaster. It all depends on your taste here.

Mineral wool

Gas silicate is a vapor-tight material, therefore mineral wool, whose vapor permeability is a well-known fact, is suitable for insulation. It also does not burn and performs soundproofing properties.

But there are also disadvantages. For example, cotton wool absorbs water and in case of any serious damage to the plaster layer or a crack, it loses thermal insulation. Therefore, not all experts agree on whether it is possible to insulate facades with it.

We cannot say directly whether or not we can insulate our house in this way, but in any case, if you still decide to choose mineral wool as a heater, its algorithm of actions is similar to foam fixing.

To begin with, it is worth cleaning the walls of debris and dust by priming the surface of the walls from the gas silicate block. And in this case, you should not be limited to one time either. It is better to repeat several times.

Installation of slabs of cotton wool is carried out in the same way as that of polystyrene. The first row is leveled and attached to the wall with glue and dowels, which are fixed at the joints and in the middle of the slab. The next row is also set with a shift of half a plate so that the seams do not match.

After installation, you should give the insulation time to stand and dry, and only after that you can continue to work.

The next step is to apply on mineral wool. A mesh is attached to this glue, which is slightly recessed. You also need to overlap 1 cm at the junction of the mesh. After the glue dries, apply another layer.

The final step is, of course, plastering. At the same time, the house "breathes" because the plaster allows steam to pass through. However, as already mentioned, be careful, because damage to the plaster layer will have a bad effect on thermal insulation.

Thermal panels

What are thermal panels? This is a system of insulation, moisture-resistant board and facing tiles. Usually the insulation is foam or mineral wool. Well, facing tiles allow you to do without putty.

In addition, the tile protects gas silicate from mechanical damage and moisture, since it is usually made to look like brick or stone. Thus, thermal panels combine beauty and reliability.

This type of insulation refers to the "ventilated facade". Although some experts say that with such insulation the wall "does not breathe", but the ventilation holes under the visor and in the basement of the building easily solve this issue.

How is thermal insulation made? The algorithm of actions is given below

Since thermal panels are heavier than foam, the presence of an L-shaped bar under the starting row is mandatory. The bar is leveled and fixed with anchors in increments of 200 mm.

For aerated concrete, special dowels are used, the edges of which, being in the block, expand under the influence of the mechanism. This is important, because without it they simply will not hold on.

After mounting the plank, it is worth proceeding to the next step, namely the installation of the crate. Usually it consists of galvanized metal UD profiles or wooden beams. The profile is installed on the starting bar and vertically attached to the hangers parallel to the wall. Suspensions are mounted with anchors at a distance of 500 mm between them.

Thus, we sheathe the entire perimeter of the house. At the corners and slopes we put two strips each, since this is necessary for installing the corner elements of the thermal panels. At the level of the starting bar, at the bottom along the base, you need to install a low tide.

We close the space between the profiles with mineral wool or foam plastic plates. However, do not forget about the ventilation gap of 20-30 mm. We attach thermal panels to the profile using self-tapping screws. As in the case of foam boards, we mount the tiles with the same shift. Well, tightness is ensured by grooves for connecting panels.

After work is completed, all gaps are sealed with foam, and the screws and seams are overwritten.

Also, instead of thermal panels, you can use siding. The principle of its installation is the same as for thermal panels. However, under the siding, in addition to the insulation, a windproof membrane is pulled.

So, today we looked at how to insulate a gas silicate house from the outside. We also learned how to insulate gas silicate blocks from the outside and what materials can be used for this. Of course, it is up to you to decide how to insulate the house, but we hope that this information will help in creating a cozy insulated house.

We wish you success in your endeavors!

uteplix.com

What is the best way to insulate gas silicate?

A house made of gas silicate blocks is considered one of the best in terms of thermal insulation. This is mainly due to the structure of the material, which is almost 90% air. The rest is a mixture of sand, cement, limestone and water according to a certain technology. It is not always necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete due to the characteristics of the material, however, rather severe winter frosts prevail in the middle zone of our country.

They do not allow to do without warming the house from gas silicate blocks. This is a natural process. How to insulate a house from gas silicate outside, and will be discussed further.

How can you insulate gas silicate?

Warming a house from gas silicate blocks involves the use of a wide variety of materials. Most often, however, two varieties are used - this is mineral wool and polystyrene. It is worth talking about the advantages and disadvantages of both technologies in more detail.

When insulating a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands using foam, do not forget about the ease of installation of this material. It can be mounted with ease, besides, a wide variety of tools can be used for sawing it. Some use a regular construction knife for these purposes, and some use a hacksaw.

It all depends on the desire and capabilities of the person. At the same time, the foam has a lot of disadvantages that make this technology less in demand. The fact is that the foam has a low air permeability. At the same time, the main material, namely gas silicate blocks, have a higher indicator of this characteristic.

As for mineral wool, it is more acceptable as a heater for a house made of gas silicate blocks. This is just an ideal option, which today has received the widest distribution. Mineral wool perfectly passes air and keeps it warm. This material is a little more difficult to mount, but the characteristics of the walls will always be on top.

There are other materials that are widely used for the same purposes, but they are used much less frequently than those discussed above.

Tools and materials

So, now it’s worth talking about what you may need to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands. Here you will need to acquire the following:

• heat-insulating material, in this case we will talk about mineral wool;
• dowels;
• glue;
• perforated corners;
• container for diluting glue;
• building level;
• fiberglass mesh;
• perforator;
• putty knife.

Basically, this should be enough to carry out the entire complex of events.

Now you can proceed directly to the insulation of the house from gas silicate blocks. To begin with, you will have to carefully prepare. The wall is cleaned of various dirt, dust, and all defects are eliminated on it. This is done in order to improve the adhesion of the surface to the mineral wool through the use of an adhesive.

If there are large defects on the wall, then they must also be eliminated. This is done through plaster and primer. Only thorough surface preparation will allow all work to be carried out with the highest quality. At the level of the basement, it is worth installing the frame.

It will serve as an additional support for the insulation. Beacons should be placed at the corners of the house. This is followed directly by the process of attaching mineral wool to the wall. First you need to smear the surface itself and cotton wool with glue. This will improve the properties of the materials to be fastened. During installation, it is imperative to avoid the formation of cruciform joints.

Do not forget about the additional fastening of the material. For these purposes, special dowels are used. They are umbrellas. They should be placed along the perimeter of the mineral wool slab, and it is also possible to additionally mount in the center.

It is worth noting the fact that mineral wool itself is a soft material that should be further strengthened.

It is for these purposes that fiberglass mesh is used. Glue is preliminarily applied to the surface of the insulation, and then the fiberglass mesh itself is installed. An additional layer of glue is applied over the mesh.

After the process of reinforcing the insulation is completed, it is imperative to additionally insulate the corners of the building, door and window openings. This is done extremely simply. For these purposes, the same perforated corners that were purchased earlier are used.

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House insulation from gas silicate

In a previous article, we talked about wall insulation with cardboard. Today we will talk about buildings made of foam concrete. One of the ways to save heat is to insulate the house from gas silicate blocks from the outside. Gas silicate blocks are distinguished by high heat transfer properties, so you should immediately protect your home from heat loss. Below you can find the answer to the question: "How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks?". Following the method of warming a house from gas silicate blocks will help to avoid mistakes in the process. After all, the finishing of walls from gas silicate should be carried out taking into account such factors as climatic conditions, the thickness of the blocks and the specifics of construction. Still need to decide on the material for work.

Why is it necessary to insulate houses from gas silicate blocks?

External insulation is always better than internal insulation, since the dew point does not shift into the wall, but into the insulation layer.

Before insulating gas silicate blocks, which are cellular concrete, you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics. In the construction market, gas silicate has gained great popularity for its high performance properties. This material is durable, environmentally friendly, soundproof and economical. Savings are provided by the preservation of heat. A building made of cellular concrete reduces heating costs by up to 40%.

But it is worth considering such a disadvantage as the ability to pass moisture. Gas silicate perfectly absorbs liquid due to its porous structure and masonry joints, so the wall should be protected. The solution to this problem will be the insulation of gas silicate from the outside.

Existing methods of insulation

Traditional materials for protection against moisture are:

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• plaster mixes.

If we talk about new products that have appeared relatively recently on the building materials market, then we should mention thermal panels. They are distinguished not only by excellent protection against moisture, but also give a great look to the building. True, the cost is higher than that of conventional heaters. To insulate a wall of gas silicate blocks, you will need:

• one of the above materials for thermal insulation;
• glue;
• container for diluting glue;
• dowels;
• drill;
• level;
• fiberglass mesh;
• building level;
• putty knife;
• plaster;
• primer;
• perforator;
• dye.

This is the main thing you need to have before starting insulation. Then it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work, which will ensure a quality result. To begin with, the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust. Is it necessary to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks without pre-cleaning? It is not recommended, because thorough cleaning ensures adhesion of the adhesive to the wall insulation.

You can clean the wall with a spray gun. This will ensure thorough dust removal. After cleaning, all visible irregularities and surface defects are eliminated. For this, plaster is used, and then a primer. The primer is applied with a brush, which will serve as an additional cleansing of debris. If irregularities are left, the insulation may be damaged.

If you decide to install hydrogen heating at home with your own hands, then you will need clear instructions for performing the work. Fortunately, we recently considered this topic and came to the conclusion that there is a benefit, and not a small one.

You will find the necessary information on how a hydrogen burner for heating works here.

The use of mineral wool for insulation

The mineral wool is glued to the universal construction adhesive and additionally nailed with dowels.

Gas silicate, as a vapor-permeable material, it is desirable to insulate with the fact that it also passes steam. Therefore, the insulation of gas silicate with mineral wool will extend the life of the walls and eliminate additional problems with internal insulation. Indeed, with vapor-tight external insulation in the house, it will be necessary to additionally equip ventilation. Insulation with mineral wool provides additional sound insulation and gives an attractive appearance to the building. In addition, mineral wool has non-combustible properties. This material is purchased in slabs.

Work on insulation with mineral wool consists of the following steps:

• installation of mineral wool slabs;
• then you should leave the insulation for gas silicate blocks for a while so that it stands;
• installation of reinforcing mesh;
• a primer is applied;
• plaster is applied;
• painting is carried out, but only after the plaster has dried.

Leave a gap between the plates no more than 5 mm, otherwise cracks will appear.

A level is used to lay the first row of slabs evenly. They are installed on the principle of brickwork so that their seams do not match. They are attached to the wall with glue, which is used according to the instructions indicated on the package. Then additional fixation is carried out with dowels: in the middle of the plate and at the joints. A layer of glue is applied to the mineral wool, in which the mesh is embedded. It is necessary to overlap by 1 cm. After drying, a second layer of glue is applied. Plaster is a vapor-permeable material, therefore its application does not block the passage of steam in mineral wool and gas silicate. The house continues to breathe.

If there is an opportunity to make combined heating at home, then do not miss it, it's worth it. Thanks to this, you will be able to heat your home with several types of energy carrier, which is very convenient.

If we talk about the economic component of heating on diesel fuel, then the reviews talk about the significant benefits of installing a liquid fuel boiler. You will find details here.

How to use expanded polystyrene to insulate a gas silicate house from the outside?

Concrete blocks can be insulated with foam plastic, the thickness of the insulation should be calculated based on the climatic zone.

Expanded polystyrene is a white insulating material, which consists of 98% air enclosed in thin cells of expanded polystyrene. But is it possible to insulate gas silicate with polystyrene foam? If you insulate the house correctly, then you can. Expanded polystyrene has good thermal insulation properties at minimal cost. Also read: "Technological features of facade insulation with foam".

This material is environmentally friendly, fireproof and durable. It also has high energy saving rates. The foam plastic thickness of 3 cm corresponds to 5.5 cm of mineral wool.

For work, foam plates are used. Insulation of the house with this material is carried out as follows:

• plates are mounted;
• after they should be left to settle for a day;
• tightened with dowels in the corners and in the middle;
• reinforcing mesh is attached;
• plaster is applied;
• insulation is being painted.

To avoid the glue from drying out, it should be applied only to part of the wall (for the bottom row of boards).

Expanded polystyrene is laid with glue. For even laying, a level is used, and for adhesion to the wall, the plates are slightly pressed. The seams of each row should not match, there is no need to leave a gap between the plates. This will ensure a secure bond. For high-quality reinforcement, the corners of the building are first strengthened, and then the rest of the surface. You need to move from top to bottom. Subject to this technology and obtaining a good result, the question of whether gas silicate can be insulated with foam plastic no longer arises.

Thermal insulation with thermal panels

Thermal panels - aesthetics and thermal insulation in one bottle.

Thermal panels for wall insulation from gas silicate blocks are a system of such components as insulation, cladding tiles and a moisture-resistant board. The insulation can be in the form of expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. The moisture-resistant board is a structural layer, and the facing board allows you to avoid work at the final stages - puttying and painting. The installation of thermal panels greatly facilitates the process of insulation. Installation of thermal panels is made on the crate of the wall, and not on the wall itself.

The crate is made of galvanized steel and is attached to the wall using a screwdriver, puncher, self-tapping screws and dowels. The design consists of L-shaped strips, suspensions, U-shaped profiles. After the installation is completed, a heater is laid in the frame of the profiles - expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. Then thermal panels are attached to the structural profiles.

How to insulate a bath from gas silicate blocks?

The bath, as a room with high humidity, requires additional thermal insulation. But how to properly insulate a bath of gas silicate blocks? It should be borne in mind that materials for warming the bath should not emit harmful substances at high temperatures. Before insulation, it is necessary to apply a special impregnation to the wall. For a bath, basalt insulation in the form of cotton wool is suitable as an external insulation; expanded polystyrene is also used. Also read: "Some aspects of floor insulation in the bath".

Regardless of the protective material, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap to dry the heat insulator.

The warming of a bath made of gas silicate blocks is carried out in stages:

• protective material is attached;
• crate is mounted;
• lining is stuffed (lining is used).

Such materials for insulating a house from the outside of gas silicate, such as mineral wool or polystyrene, are used equally often. But which one to choose? Both heaters have their advantages and disadvantages. If we compare them, then:

• low cost of materials;
• polystyrene has good thermal insulation properties, and mineral wool has a higher thermal conductivity;
• polystyrene is more durable;
• polystyrene foam has increased flammability, while the second option is non-combustible.

Both options are good in their own way, but what is the best way to insulate gas silicate blocks? If we are talking about choosing a material for warming a bath, then it is better to focus on expanded polystyrene and its derivatives, because mineral wool absorbs more moisture that occurs due to a large temperature difference. The cost of both materials is quite acceptable. A higher price will be for insulation using thermal panels. But as a result, the house will have a whiter attractive appearance. The installation process of thermal panels can be seen on the video:

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How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?

If you insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside, you can achieve a very good effect in terms of savings on space heating. This is not a complicated and not too expensive process that will help you save good money on heating.

Gas silicate blocks: what is it?

Gas silicate blocks are one of the new building materials for building walls. It is characterized by high heat and sound insulation, lightness and large size. They are also low priced. But many companies overprice both them and their masonry, so always find out the prices from different sources, and, when hiring workers, the prices for laying gas silicate blocks. Such characteristics of gas silicate blocks allow you to quickly build energy-efficient buildings, but they are not very durable.

Why insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?

Many people ask themselves: “Why insulate such a house if it will be warm anyway?”. The goal is not only to increase heat savings, but also to provide special protection to the gas silicate blocks, which will significantly extend the life of your home.

Gas silicate blocks have low resistance to moisture. They absorb it into themselves and, when frozen, can form microcracks that reduce their efficiency and strength. On average, this material is designed for 200 freezing cycles. During the winter, in unstable weather, more than 20 such cycles can take place, which means that the walls will last you about 10 years. Insulation on the outside using materials that absorb moisture helps to avoid these very processes, which will significantly extend the life of the house.

Such buildings are best insulated in two layers. The first is an insulating material that is able to absorb moisture, and the second is an external one that can withstand atmospheric influences.

As a warming material, the best option is to use isover. Isover is a modernized glass wool, which consists of organic fibers, which, in turn, are able to give and absorb moisture in significant quantities. Its feature is that moisture is retained strongly enough so that nearby surfaces remain practically dry.

Foreman's advice: some suggest using foam as a heater. This option is not bad, but not suitable for such buildings, since the foam does not absorb moisture, but, on the contrary, can lead to its accumulation, which will only help accelerate the process of block destruction.

A wide variety of materials can act as the second layer, all that are suitable for outdoor use. These can be plastic panels, wood or special boards made from complex polymers. The choice always remains with the consumer. It all depends on the desire and financial abilities.

One common option is to use plastic panels. They are relatively inexpensive and look great. There are a large number of colors, which allows you to decorate the outside of the house to the taste of any person.

Foreman's advice: You can save money on the outer skin, but in no case should you save on the isover, because the effect of insulation and protection of your walls will depend on it.

The warming process is as follows:

1. Creating a frame outside the house - a frame is made to fix the insulation and plastic panels.
2. Strengthening the insulation in the frame - it is fixed so that it fits snugly against the wall of the house and does not have cracks and gaps. Thus, the ingress of moisture on the wall is almost completely excluded and the amount of condensate that forms on the walls during temperature changes is minimized.
3. Sewing the frame with an outer material - it is carried out so that there are no holes and cracks, which provides additional protection and simply provides a beautiful look.

Some materials for the top layer of insulation require additional finishing. Accordingly, you will need to choose the type of exterior finish to complete.

How much will home insulation save?

If a house made of gas silicate blocks is 20-25% more economical than conventional houses, then a house whose walls are insulated from the outside gives savings of up to 40%.

Such a house with insulation will help you reduce heating costs by almost 2 times, which is a pretty good indicator today.

How much does home insulation cost?

The cost of home insulation will depend on the choice of materials. When choosing materials, it is worth comparing materials in terms of efficiency in terms of thermal insulation, comparing prices in various stores and on the Internet, because the price of different suppliers can vary up to 20%.

No matter how much it costs you to insulate your home, it's all trifles compared to how much this home improvement will help you save.

External enclosing structures of buildings, made of gas silicate blocks, which, due to their porous structure, have effective heat-shielding qualities, in some cases need additional thermal insulation. Thermal insulation of walls from gas silicate blocks from the outside is the most effective way of thermal protection.

Why insulate

Sometimes insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside is required if the reason for additional thermal insulation is that during the construction of the building the thickness of the outer walls was chosen incorrectly and freezing occurs, leading to inefficient consumption of thermal energy and associated economic losses.

Another reason may be that during the repair, the owner of the building decides to transfer the not very effective thermal insulation of the premises from the inside of the facade walls to their outer surface. The device of external thermal insulation is not allowed without external finishing, which, in addition to its decorative properties, serves as its protection against mechanical damage and aggressive atmospheric influences. Therefore, thermal protection is usually installed in parallel with the exterior of the building. An additional advantage is the increase in the internal volume of the premises adjacent to the outer walls.

Processes affecting thermal insulation

Why is it better to insulate walls from the outside rather than from the inside? This is due to a process called vapor permeability. In the process of finding a person in a room, steam is mainly released from his breath. If the building envelope is vapor-tight, the vapor, instead of passing through the walls, condenses on them, creating a humid environment that adversely affects the walls and their interior finishes or cladding. However, the most active exchange of steam-air gases through the outer walls occurs in the winter season.

Steam migration occurs in the direction from heat to cold. If the insulation is located inside, when the walls freeze at the border of the insulation and the aerated concrete block, condensate also accumulates. It is absorbed by the insulating material, which also usually has a porous structure and drastically reduces its protective properties.

The location of the thermal insulation on the outside and the use of special film vapor-permeable, but at the same time waterproofing membranes, allows the most efficient use of the desired properties of aerated concrete blocks and the material selected for additional insulation.

What materials are used for thermal insulation

What is the best way to insulate a house? The most common materials used as insulation for gas silicate blocks
are foam boards and mineral wool mats.

Styrofoam insulation consists in the use of flat slabs consisting of expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and sizes. Styrofoam is easily cut, sawn, drilled. When using the right adhesive, it adheres well to the wall of gas silicate blocks.

Mineral wool is produced under various trademarks, such as ISOVER, KNAUF, URSA in rolls or plates with a thickness of 45 to 200 mm, dimensions: in width - from 60 to 1200 mm, in length - from 1170 to 10000 mm. Warming with mineral wool and its fixing on the facade is carried out with the help of special dowels for gas silicate blocks.

Sometimes cement-sand or cement-lime plaster can be used with a porous filler - perlite or vermiculite sand, having a bulk density of up to 50 kg / m3. Foamed plastic granules are used as a porous component. When using such plaster, before painting the facade, it must be treated with deep penetration impregnation.

Another way to properly perform gas silicate insulation is to arrange a so-called ventilated facade. This is a type of finishing the exterior walls of the house, when the facing panels are fixed to the installed metal frame, the profiles of which can be made of galvanized sheet, stainless steel, aluminum. A gap of at least 5 cm is left between the finishing sheets and the wall. Ambient air moves freely through it, which removes and dries the condensate and moisture formed as a result of temperature changes from the wall of the building.

When using ventilated façade systems or KMEW-type fiber cement panels, it should be taken into account that they can create additional stress on the foundations and the subgrade. Therefore, before starting work, it is better to consult with specialists and perform a verification calculation of the bearing capacity, taking into account changing efforts.

The specifics of the work

Most of the materials used for exterior facades require pre-framing or battens. Frames are needed to level the surface of the walls and to securely fasten the cladding, which can be used for such facade products as, starting with fairly expensive fiber cement panels and ending with cheap pressed plastic siding, produced both in the form of the so-called eurolining, and in in the form of sheet materials laminated with a film with a pattern in the form of stone, wood, and other facing materials.

Frames are made of wooden laths with a section of 50 x 50 mm or metal stamped strips of galvanized sheet. The insulation is laid and fixed to the wall of gas silicate blocks with glue in the spaces formed by the horizontal and vertical elements of the crate.

Between the frame and the insulation there should be no gaps and cracks that form cold bridges and reduce the effectiveness of thermal protection.

For waterproofing external insulation, it is better to use membranes or films that can combine vapor-permeable, hydrophobic and windproof properties. These materials are divided into types, such as:

• perforated; they can have internal reinforcement of glass-polymer fine mesh and be made of one or more layers;
• porous; formed compressed from fibers, between which channels and pores are formed; due to light pollution, they are not recommended for use in conditions of heavily dusty and gassed outdoor air;
• woven; from polyethylene or polypropylene threads (a similar fabric is used as modern burlap), are used in exceptional cases, do not cope well with waterproofing and are not a good choice as a vapor permeable membrane;
• multi-layer, consisting of 3 layers or cheaper - 2-layer have good wind protection and practically do not get dirty.

Do I need to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks 400 mm

Most of the regions of our country are located in difficult climatic conditions, characterized by winters with severe frosts, as well as very hot summers. If the owner of the house wants to save money, he can accept any thickness of the outer walls in his house. Including 400 mm, that is, in 1 block. Compared to this, most brick houses have a wall thickness of 500 mm (2 bricks). If the walls of the house will freeze through in winter, in summer those living in it will suffer from heat - the choice was made wrong. The thickness of the walls of buildings also depends on its number of storeys, wind roses and their intensity. Learning from your own mistakes is a thankless task. Therefore, it is better to contact a construction organization, which employs specialists in the field of building physics, before performing work. They will perform a heat engineering calculation and give recommendations on the thickness of the walls, based on the specified parameters.

A bathhouse with a steam room on the site is a structure that provides its owner with both a healthy lifestyle and entertainment - where you can still enjoy spending time with your family, relatives and colleagues.

Like the main house, the bath can be built from gas silicate blocks. Insulation of this building, first of all, will be required in order to save money on combustible materials required for kindling. How to warm it up? Internal insulation of the walls of the bath is impractical for the same reasons mentioned above:

• useful internal volume will be lost;
• on the border of the internal thermal insulation and the wall, condensate will accumulate, saturating the porous thermal insulation with water, depriving it of a significant portion of its effectiveness and creating conditions for the appearance of fungus and mold;
• the temperature and humidity conditions in the bathhouse and its effect on building structures are much more aggressive than those in the main house.

As in all other cases, the thermal insulation of a gas silicate bath is best done from the outside of the bath. To do this, you can fully use the same methods that the main house on the site was insulated. However, as practice shows, the best results in terms of fuel economy / insulation efficiency are obtained when used for separate baths, saunas, steam room insulation - ventilated facades.

Like many other construction works, the technology of thermal insulation of the outer walls of houses made of gas silicate blocks is quite accessible for self-implementation. However, experience is needed. Any mistake, even if it may seem insignificant at first glance, can lead to marriage and to the fact that expensive materials can be damaged, and the work will require significant alteration. Therefore, if you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to invite specialists who will perform external thermal insulation in a reasonable time and with good quality.

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, what thermal insulation material to choose? These questions concern many who have decided to build a house from cellular materials. Since the distinctive property of aerated concrete is vapor permeability, this property must be preserved.

For heat-insulating materials, this coefficient should be somewhat lower than that of the material from which the walls are built. If this parameter is higher, there is a possibility of moisture accumulation.

Is it possible to use foam plastic for insulation, a material that is very popular? How to properly insulate the gas silicate walls of the house?

Styrofoam properties

Like aerated concrete, foam plastic has positive and negative qualities.

Material advantages

• Polyfoam is environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic substances.
• Durable, does not decompose.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor barrier properties.
• Fireproof, fire resistant, self-extinguishing.
• Low specific gravity, does not weigh down the structure.
• Relatively inexpensive material.

Foam properties - thermal conductivity, long service life and relatively good vapor permeability

Material disadvantages

• Fragility, foam crumbles easily.
• Destroyed in contact with nitro paints, enamels, varnishes.
• Doesn't let air through.
• The material can be damaged by rodents, so it needs protection.

When choosing a foam plastic as a heater for aerated concrete outside, it is necessary to take into account all its qualities. The vapor permeability coefficient of the material is lower than that of aerated concrete blocks. This problem can be solved by providing additional ventilation.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls with foam plastic will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature fluctuations in the house, and reduce heating costs

The sequence of works on the installation of foam from the outside

To insulate the facade of the building, it is necessary to adhere to the following sequence

1. Surface preparation. The surface of aerated concrete must be cleaned of dirt, glue, dents and other irregularities should be leveled;
2. Application of a primer on the outside for porous materials;
3. Along the perimeter of the windows, it is recommended to reinforce with fiberglass mesh. Its size should be such that 10 cm enter under the insulation;
4. Bonding foam boards. For this, a special one is used. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is evenly distributed over a small section of the wall outside the house or onto a sheet of insulation. The foam is pressed against the wall with light movements. All joints are processed with glue;
5. For additional fastening outside, plastic long dowels with a cap are used - an umbrella in the middle of the sheet and at its corners;
6. The sheets will be glued correctly with an offset, just like when laying blocks;
7. Application of the first plaster layer on the foam, followed by gluing the reinforcing mesh. The joints of the mesh must be overlapped, so that subsequently cracks will not form;
8. Application of the second layer of plaster;
9. Facade painting.

Highlights at work

In construction there is such a thing as "dew point". The formation of condensate will depend on its location. When erecting walls, the point is in the blocks themselves, but when they begin to insulate, there is a gradual shift, moreover, towards the heat-insulating material.

High-quality insulation is the key to comfortable indoor conditions

Consider the following points

• The house must be properly ventilated.
• It is necessary to choose the right thickness of the foam, taking into account the indicators for heat engineering. It is possible to insulate the walls from the outside with thin sheets of 2 - 4 cm, but this will be a big mistake. The temperature in aerated concrete should always be positive. The central regions of Russia are characterized by low winter temperatures, sheets 10 cm thick are the best solution, it is then that the house will be warmer.

We emphasize once again that the foam plastic passes vapors worse, thus, the humidity of aerated concrete walls increases by an average of 6 - 7%. Humidity can be reduced with a good ventilation system. , lightweight waterproof material. It has poor vapor permeability. Other materials for facade insulation, such as extruded polystyrene foam and foam glass, are not so popular in use.

How important it is for the house to "breathe" is up to you. You can make the house "breathable" if you provide both good exhaust and air flow.

Today, facade insulation with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive methods, and is very popular, since the main purpose of insulation is to keep warm. With this problem, a material such as polystyrene does an excellent job.