Insulation of the facade of a wooden house with modern materials. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to mount it yourself

Today, log cabins are very popular due to their beautiful appearance, environmental friendliness and that special atmosphere of comfort that allows you to relax from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house is an important part of construction work. Not only the beauty of the external appearance, but also the operational characteristics of the structure depend on the quality of execution. It is reliable thermal insulation that allows you to fully experience all the charms of a wooden structure, so the choice of technology and material should be approached with all responsibility.

Prices for insulation of the facade of a wooden house from the outside

Service	Unit rev.	price, rub.
Finishing seams with sealant	m.p.	90
Insulation "warm seam"	m.p.	90
Konopatka (OCB)	m.p.	70
Caulker (BRR)	m.p.	80
Caulking corners and ends	m.p.	Included in the price
Punching old material	m.p.	35
Decorative rope trim	m.p.	50
Alignment of the ends of the log house	m.p.	350
Crate (lighthouses)	m2	150
Vapor waterproofing	m2	50
Warming	m2	50
Siding	m2	400
Siding (lining)	m2	400
timber imitation	m2	400
Plywood installation	m2	250

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In a wooden structure, the facade is exposed to various environmental factors, for example: snow, rain, scorching sun. To extend its service life and preserve the appearance of novelty, you should turn to the service of warming the facade of a wooden house.

It is better to entrust this stage of work to qualified specialists who will perform insulation in compliance with all construction technologies. Our masters will visit the object free of charge and take all the necessary measurements. You can also order interior decoration and other types of services from us.

Benefits of facade insulation

The log house can be called one of the most beautiful, environmentally friendly and comfortable housing options. For many, such a house is associated with a measured country life, a sense of calm, warmth. But in order for the building to become a truly reliable and warm home, it is important to correctly follow the construction technology and reliably insulate the facade of the house.

Wall insulation has several advantages:

• additional thermal insulation;
• decorative function;
• protection from UV rays, precipitation;
• preservation of the internal area of ​​the premises;
• proper air circulation;
• insect protection;
• additional soundproofing;
• preservation of the smell of wood indoors.

The subtleties of work on the insulation of facades

Due to the variety of building materials, specialists use various techniques to achieve the maximum effect on a particular object. The choice of technology and material depends on the established budget.

Option number 1. Warming is carried out with subsequent lining along the crate.

The process begins with the installation of beams on the outside of the wall, between which the builders lay heat-insulating plates. For additional protection against precipitation, moisture and maintaining the temperature inside the room, the outer side of the panel is covered with a special membrane.

Finishing is made of siding, artificial stone or any other material intended for outdoor use.

Option number 2. Wet version.

The first step is to install thermal insulation boards on the walls of the building. They are attached to a solution of building glue. The outer side is treated with plaster. The disadvantage of this technology is increased sensitivity.

Option number 3. Installation of lining on guides.

To create a reliable and continuous thermal insulation layer, the cladding is installed on metal guides. Finishing, as well as in the first version, is carried out with any material intended for outdoor use.

What material to choose?

The modern market offers a huge amount of materials for facing the exterior of the house and the choice largely depends on the budget.

The most popular are:

• Styrofoam. The material is quite light, but combustible. When installing such plates, all cracks must be carefully sealed to prevent air circulation.
• Three-layer external panels. They have an upper decorative layer, presented in the form of a galvanized steel sheet.
• Mineral wool. Differs in chemical inertness, resistance to fire, minimum thermal conductivity. Presented in the form of plates.
• Penoplex. Easy to install, produced in the form of plates and rolls. Does not accumulate moisture. Differs in high rates of heat saving.

Particular attention should be paid to materials that include mineral wool. Their advantage is high vapor permeability.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house: how to order?

A beautiful and warm country house, reliably protected from drafts, shrinkage and deformation is the dream of every person. Qualified specialists of the company "Finishing the log house" will perform all types of work on the construction and finishing of the log house, making your dream a reality.

The cost and terms of work depend on the type of services and the scope of the project.

Do you want to order right now? Call us or leave a request through the feedback form!

04.09.2016 0 comments

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the expediency of warming, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? The advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances of doing this kind of work with your own hands will be revealed further.

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Insulation options

Warming a wooden house from the outside has a lot of advantages:

• the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
• lack of debris and dust inside the room;
• there is no need to rearrange the furniture or perform any internal work;
• additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
• for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to ennoble, transform the appearance of the building.

Note! Improper performance of work on the insulation of a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite the constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have confidently gained a foothold on the market:

1. Mineral wool.
2. Styrofoam.
3. Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to consider. A detailed consideration of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Mineral wool is compressed particles of artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and does not undergo deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used to insulate the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool with confidence include:

• ease of installation;
• environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
• guarantees additional protection against fire;
• democracy, affordability;
• durability;
• the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
• the material has a high melting point, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

• the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
• does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
• hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro and vapor barriers are required.

When choosing mineral wool as a heater, consider the following tips:

1. Before warming, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
2. Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
3. It is necessary to mount the material with a call to half of the previous sheet of material, spaces between the elements are not allowed.
4. Additionally, you can limit the shift of mineral wool using anchors.
5. You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as a heater

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using foam. Outwardly, it is an accumulation of a large number of air, foam balls of plastic mass. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

• ease and convenience of installation;
• lightness of the material;
• dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
• increased soundproofing qualities;
• resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
• significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Rather, on the contrary, a sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required dimensions by trimming. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

1. It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
2. To process gaps at the joints of polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
3. The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
4. Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
5. Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not properly organized, it will accelerate the development of the fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the structure wall and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a colleague of polystyrene. It is also a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene balls, but exceeds its predecessor in technical characteristics.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

• increased technical characteristics;
• good surface strength;
• does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
• perfectly retains internal heat;
• does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
• ease of installation;
• environmentally friendly material;
• does not burn;
• enjoy a long service life.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

1. The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene.
2. The need for high-quality protection from ultraviolet exposure to sunlight. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
3. Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
4. Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to foam.

Note! A prerequisite for foam insulation is the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now consider how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

1. Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
2. Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall with mounting foam. When the foam dries, cut off the remnants with a sharp knife.
3. Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
4. To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a crate of wooden slats. The step between the slats should be 1 m. The crate should guarantee the presence of a ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture drops on the tree, followed by decay, damage to the wall surface.
5. Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fix the vapor barrier on the rails, and seal the attachment points with adhesive tape to seal the coating.
6. Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using wooden planks 40 × 100 mm. A heater will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, in order to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the laths should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
7. Using the building level, monitor the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other shortcomings.
8. Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
9. The next stage of the "pie" is the laying of a layer of hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with adhesive tape for tightness.
10. The final stage is the installation of decorative trim on the facade of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

A wooden house in the modern sense of most people is an elite wooden new building. Somehow, the fact that most of the old buildings in the CIS are wooden, only “decorated” with clay coating or facing bricks, falls out of attention. Today it is fashionable to build wooden structures: houses, gazebos, bathhouses, etc. Modern technologies make it possible to effectively insulate even a wooden house, giving it the desired appearance. That is, the insulation of the facade of a wooden house is combined with the finishing process.

The technology of warming the facade of a wooden house involves the use of two types of heat-insulating material: mineral and synthetic for external or internal insulation.

In the case of a wooden house, internal insulation is undesirable, especially when it is possible to perform external insulation of the facade of a wooden house. Why? A number of factors "softly hints" - improve the insulation of the house from the outside! This will save the usable area of ​​​​the room - the thickness of the insulating "pie" takes up quite a lot of space.

Insulating the walls from the inside does not protect them from freezing! And the shift of the “dew point” inside the room leads to the release of condensate at the border of the warm and cold zones and to the rapid appearance of dampness and more serious “wet” consequences.

Freezing of a wet wall in the cold season leads to its microcracking and gradual destruction.

Thus, the most practical and profitable way to insulate is to create an external insulating "pie".

External insulation of the facade of a wooden house involves the use of such materials:

• steam-removing moisture-wind insulation;
• mineral wool insulation;
• material for the crate (wooden slats or profile);
• fixing accessories (dowels-umbrellas, adhesive tape for vapor barrier, adhesive mixture for extruded polystyrene foam, etc.);

Attention! Pay special attention to the choice of insulation for a wooden house and consult with specialists in your area of ​​residence.

Insulation of wooden walls with mineral wool

The best option for warming the wooden walls of the house is the use of mineral wool. And it doesn’t matter the structural “specifics” of the house, whether it is made of round timber, or it is framed, or made of timber ... In all these cases, the external insulation technology can be the same.

If the facade will be plastered over a layer of mineral wool, then the installation of a layer of vapor and wind insulation can be neglected. The high vapor permeability of cotton wool and plaster will allow the walls to "breathe" freely, giving moisture out into the outer space, which will protect the latter from decay and slow destruction. But, before warming, the wooden wall must be treated with an antifungal compound.

Mineral wool slabs are attached to the walls with the help of dish-shaped dowels without gaps between them and with the vertical seams of each row offset relative to the adjacent one.

When facing a house with decorative material (siding, clapboard ...), before warming, you need to take care of the fasteners for the frame crate.

Attention! When mounting the frame, it is necessary to take into account the ventilation gap of at least 50 mm between the outer surface of the insulation and the inner surface of the decorative material.

The length of the mounting brackets must take into account the thickness of the insulation + 50 mm + space for attaching the timber. Next, the insulation plates are fixed with dish-shaped dowels. Then the entire area of ​​​​the insulation is covered with a vapor-removing film of moisture-wind insulation, which is tucked along the edges under the insulation layer, thus closing the mineral wool from moisture entering it, which, by the way, has an extremely negative effect on the thermal insulation properties of mineral wool.

Note! It is not recommended, or rather, it is contraindicated to cover the walls of the house with plastic wrap under a layer of heat-insulating material. It, in combination with insufficient ventilation at home, will become an insurmountable barrier to moisture, which in normal mode should freely exit the walls to the outside. Rotting and the appearance of a fast-growing fungus in wooden walls are guaranteed!

Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam in the insulation of a wooden house

Warming the facade of a wooden house with ordinary polystyrene foam is contraindicated because of its ability to accumulate moisture in itself.

A slightly better option may be to use foam or extruded polystyrene foam as a heater, but ONLY if there is high-quality ventilation in the house. These materials have virtually “zero” vapor conductivity, so the house appears to be in a sealed “thermal jacket”, which again will negatively affect the condition of the walls over time. Intensive ventilation can help remove excess moisture from the room.

To fix the heat insulator sheets on the walls of a wooden house, a crate of timber (20-30 x 50 mm) is mounted, leveled, with a cell size of 500x500mm (according to the size of the sheet). Fix the bars to the walls with straight hangers. The gaps between the irregularities of the wall and the timber are filled with mounting foam.

Heat insulator sheets are attached to the crate with polyurethane foam glue, and finally fixed with dish-shaped dowels. The next row should be offset - the vertical seams should not match. Sheets are "fitted" with a grater or filled with liquid foam.

It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for sealing!

If plastering sheets of polystyrene or expanded polystyrene are supposed to be plastered, then the insulation is further reinforced with a special mesh, and then plastered!

Healthy! If you are not a fan of monotonous work that requires accuracy, then it is better to hire professionals for this type of work.

Insulation with brickwork

A wooden dolm can also be insulated with additional facing with a brick or gas block from the outside. At the same time, a layer of insulation is laid between the wooden wall and the masonry. A prerequisite for this is the presence of an air ventilation gap between the facing wall and the outer surface of the insulation.

In modern construction, a facing wall is often built from aerated concrete blocks. Low thermal conductivity in the "commonwealth" with high vapor permeability allows you to get high-quality insulation without the use of vapor barrier materials and the organization of a ventilation gap.

The use of mineral wool as a heat insulator is optimal (especially in the case of a log cabin). High coefficient of thermal insulation, resistance to high temperatures, unsuitability for the "settlement" of the fungus, high vapor permeability ... You can not continue! Enough arguments already.

By “dressing” your house in additional warm “clothes”, you will not only get a comfortable temperature in the room, but also keep (with properly selected materials and installation) the walls of the house intact.

In order to keep the warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a heat-insulating layer to the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of warming an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors through, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the exit of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts say that the best insulation for an old wooden house cannot be found. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

1. Retains heat very well.
2. Isolates the interior from extraneous sounds from the environment.
3. Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
4. The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
5. Fire and environmental safety.
6. Rodents do not use to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

• protection from moisture is necessary, therefore mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
• requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, because this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

1. Good thermal insulation properties.
2. Has soundproofing.
3. Does not absorb moisture.
4. Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the polystyrene unsuitable for insulating a village house from a log house:

• lack of steam capacity;
• rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
• rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
• Styrofoam ignites easily, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree already burns well, and if the finish is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

1. Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam plastic 10 cm thick is needed to insulate the house, then 5 cm foam can be replaced.
2. Withstands high mechanical stress.
3. Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
4. There are also soundproofing properties.
5. Penoplex is produced with the addition of flame retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, foam is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively store heat inside the house. Therefore, we consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to isolate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed from the base much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause quite the opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation, we choose hard mats of mineral wool. If there are material opportunities, you can take the foil version. The foil layer will repel heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material, we tightly caulk the interventional space or cracks that can form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

• from the side of the room;
• from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. Harder materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which a sheet insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even polystyrene. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard, which will protect the insulation from bursting.

There is an option when bulk heaters are used, for example, sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is a basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. It is possible that after this it will not be necessary to further isolate the floor.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

1. Underfloor heating (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
2. The use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover with chipboard or OSB boards, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of isolating the floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before any outdoor work can be started. Especially if the design is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the team. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and mess around a bit. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

Let's prepare the base first:

1. Remove all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
2. Remove old decorative coating.
3. Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
4. Close all cracks.
5. Cover the wooden structure with protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the foundation.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and go outside.

• start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
• each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10–15 cm;
• joints are fixed with adhesive tape;
• the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stapler.

Lathing installation

For the frame, wooden bars or metal profiles are used. If a wooden frame is chosen, then its parts also require special treatment in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chop off in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take and install. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the heater will be used or not, and also on what kind of decorative material it was decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

• first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
• screw elements;
• we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

The material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps. Mineral wool should not bulge.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels out the work on insulation. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the wind protection film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The laying principle is the same as for the vapor barrier film:

1. Let's start from the bottom.
2. We make vertical stripes.
3. We lay in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
4. We glue the joints with tape.
5. The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

It is also appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

An additional crate also creates a ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam coming out of the interior. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As a finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

• fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
• fix the details to the elements of the crate;
• choose dry weather;
• carry out the insulation of a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how durable the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of the construction team, and not start experiments.

And for those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own, you should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose a heater and finish.

Wood, as a building material, characterized by low heat transfer. If you build the walls of the building, observing all technological standards, then additional insulation of the house will not be required. But another situation is more common - the walls of the housing are cold, and the temperature inside is quite low. In this case, it is required insulation of the facade of a wooden house. The procedure is implemented in several ways and using various building materials, which will be discussed in more detail below.

Figure 1. Facade of a wooden house.

The cost of energy is constantly rising, and many owners of wooden houses are striving to reduce heating costs. And if there is demand, then there will be supply, so now manufacturers produce a wide range of various thermal insulation materials, where each has both strengths and weaknesses. Do-it-yourself home decoration is a real task, but experience is needed to implement it. If skills are not enough and a high-quality result is required, it is recommended to contact specialists. Let's take a look at what materials are best suited for home insulation.

Styrofoam

This material is low-flammable and self-extinguishing insulation. By itself, it practically does not burn, but if another burning material is located nearby, the foam will begin to melt and release harmful gases. It is not recommended to insulate the outer walls of wooden houses with them.

Styrofoam thermal insulation, of course, is suitable, but it is better for warming the “wet” facades of a wooden house made of timber or logs. The material is made as follows: the granules are heated, they increase in volume, after which they are connected with an adhesive composition or under the influence of temperature.

The most popular brand of expanded polystyrene for external insulation is PSB-S-25, which has a thickness of 100 mm. If we consider the heat-insulating qualities, the material is similar to 50 cm brickwork. At the same time, sufficient vapor permeability is ensured - on wooden walls moisture will not accumulate at home, serving as a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms. Styrofoam often replaced polyurethane foam- a more modern material that is suitable for warming complex geometric objects.

Mineral wool

This material is often produced in the form mineral mats or slabs. For its manufacture, silicate alloys of rocks or sedimentary rocks are used, which are pressed.

Users distinguish this material as one of the best for warming wooden houses for the following reasons:

• it is not combustible (it can withstand temperatures up to +600 degrees Celsius);
• during operation is not subject to deformation;
• characterized by high chemical resistance;
• mineral wool is an environment that is not afraid of rodents and insects.

Both domestic and foreign companies are engaged in the production of the material, so the technical characteristics and dimensions differ. And yet, there are certain disadvantages of mineral wool - it contains carcinogenic components, and phenol aldehyde resin acts as a connecting substance, that is, not the safest elements.

Figure 2. Facade insulation with mineral wool.

slag wool

This material acts as a cheap alternative to glass wool. If you pay attention to the name, it becomes clear that the insulation is made from waste from metallurgical production.

The only advantage of slag wool is its low cost. And even the price does not make it popular, in view of the large list of negative qualities.

Disadvantages of slag wool for outdoor and internal wall insulation:

• melts at a temperature of +300 degrees Celsius, losing performance;
• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• service life - no more than 10 years;
• high rate of hygroscopicity - having absorbed a lot of moisture, the effectiveness of the material disappears;
• paired with some other materials, a reaction begins, due to which structures and engineering networks rust;
• fragility.

It seems that the use of slag wool is a cost-effective solution, but professionals do not recommend it for outdoor insulation due to significant drawbacks.

glass wool

This is a type of mineral wool, which has almost the same technical characteristics. The basis of its manufacture is the waste generated during the production of glass. At the moment, glass wool for home insulation is not very popular, despite the availability and good thermal protection parameters.

Glass wool produced in mats is considered to be denser and more durable. It is suitable for both insulation and wind protection. Glass wool is easily installed between the bars battens.

The low popularity of the insulation is due to the complexity of installation work and fragility. In addition, it contains harmful components, which makes it non-environmental.

Ecowool

Ecowool is not only insulating, but also soundproofing material, which is applied by spraying. Produced from recycled cellulose, where borax and boric acid are additionally added (non-toxic and non-volatile components). Appearance insulation - gray powder.

This is an environmentally friendly material, without synthetic compounds, petroleum products and other elements in the composition that are capable of releasing harmful substances. Ecowool, as noted earlier, is applied to the surface and fills all the pores and holes, resulting in a monolithic structure without joints.

Borax and boric acid added to ecowool are excellent antiseptics that prevent the development of biological life forms in the insulation. An important advantage of the material for warming wooden houses is its incombustibility. Ecowool smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Styrofoam

It is also called ordinary polystyrene foam - a material with low thermal conductivity, but absorbing moisture, which is one of the key disadvantages. Of course, wooden buildings are insulated with them, but with additional waterproofing. In addition, the material easily deteriorates under external influences, requiring protection from soil pressure. To do this, from the outside it is covered with brickwork or quartz sand, which increases the final cost of insulation work. A more modern analogue of polystyrene is extruded polystyrene foam.

If choose foam or extruded expanded polystyrene, preference is given to the second option, which is available in the form of durable, frost-resistant plates with low thermal conductivity. Its advantages also include low moisture permeability.

Penoplex

This is the name of the plates made from cellular polystyrene. It has a low percentage of moisture absorption and high heat saving. It is characterized by environmental friendliness, does not rot, however, organic solvents spoil its structure.

Figure 3. Insulation of the facade with foam.

There are 4 types of material: foundation, wall, roof and comfort. Additionally, a particularly dense variety of foam is isolated, which is used in industry. When insulating a wooden house with this material, the technology should be strictly observed. Namely, between insulation boards and the wall must leave a ventilation space. Therefore, the first step is to install a wooden crate, and only then foam. The final touch - mounted siding or lining.

Windproof plates Isoplat

Plates Isoplat is the most effective and reliable method of insulation. For their production, fiber of coniferous wood is taken. Glue and chemical binders are not added to the composition. This allows the material not to shrink and "work" throughout the entire service life, which reaches 50 years.

Important! The popularity of the plates is explained by the ease of installation, naturalness and high class of insulation. 12 mm of material is comparable to 44 mm of solid wood. In addition, Isoplast is a “breathable” material, therefore, when arranging insulation, it is not necessary to lay additional vapor barrier layer and worries about protection against fungus.

Installation of plates is simple, which you can handle on your own, without involving specialists. It is enough to press the material against the wall and hammer it with nails, and then install a ventilated facade on top of it. However, compared to classic heaters, Isoplat plates are more expensive.

Insulation with brickwork

Home construction, however, like home insulation- important tasks that require a responsible approach. Advances in technology give users the ability to choose from a variety of materials and approaches. So, often as frame insulation brickwork is used. This method has its own characteristics.

By itself, brickwork is one of the options for facing the structure. With its help, the appearance of the house is updated, and it looks more respectable. The procedure is simple, but expensive - the wooden structure is insulated from the outside with brickwork. This method allows you to save heat as much as possible and secure the house. It is important to leave about 25 cm between the brick and the house itself, which is enough for ventilation. Otherwise, the wood will begin to rot and rot over time.

Why is there a need for additional wall insulation

If you follow all technological standards during the construction of a wooden house, he will not need additional insulation. If professional skills are not enough, then it will be difficult to adhere to all these rules.

In what situations is insulation required:

1. Walls not thick enough. Some residents, in an effort to save money, use small-section wood materials. In such a house it will not be as comfortable as we would like, and savings will not be achieved, since it will be better to heat the room.
2. House blowing. This moment is explained by unevenly distributed interventional heaters. For example, if a house made of timber is poorly caulked, then there will often be insufficient temperature inside.
3. Warped logs through which heat escapes. Wood is a natural material that can deform during drying, which is difficult to take into account during construction.
4. Shrinkage. Wooden houses during the first years after construction are almost always blown until the structure shrinks.
5. Uncalibrated materials are used. Often the logs are not the right thickness compared to the crown joints, resulting in gaps through which heat escapes.

For this reason, it is so often used heat-insulating outer layer wooden house, that is, when the finished facade is insulated outside.

General device for external insulation of a wooden house

If we consider the issue as a whole, then high-quality thermal insulation, in which condensation does not appear on the walls and insulation, is done using a ventilated facade. The materials used are different, but the design takes on the appearance of a “layer cake”.

The "pie" includes the following elements:

• load-bearing wooden wall;
• frame for insulation;
• thermal insulation and fasteners for it;
• windproof film or plate;
• crate for exterior decoration;
• exterior finish.

As noted earlier, a ventilation gap is created between the insulation and the finish, which prevents the appearance of condensation and dampness on the walls.

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation

The thickness of the insulation material depends on how thick the walls of the house are, and what are the average winter temperatures of the region in which it is built. Often, the heat-insulating layer is mounted in 2 layers: the first - 100 mm, the second - 50 mm. The thickness can always be "increased", but for this an additional crate is fixed.

Figure 4. Preparing the facade for insulation.

For determining insulation technologies and the required thickness of the insulation, there is a special formula: P = R * k, from which R is the thermal resistance coefficient, and k is the thermal conductivity parameter of the insulation. There are more complex formulas and even calculators specially designed for this purpose, which indicates the importance of the task. If the calculations are made incorrectly, then many problems are subsequently leveled.

Tools for the job

In addition to the insulation itself, a waterproofing film and a hydro, windproof membrane, other tools will be needed.

What you need to prepare for insulation work:

1. Wooden block. With its help, a crate and a counter-crate are installed.
2. fasteners. This includes the screws needed to assemble the frame and fasten the insulation. Additionally, a rondol is useful - a special washer used in tandem with self-tapping screws.
3. Screwdriver. Fasteners are twisted with them, and holes are drilled.
4. Wood saw. Assembling the frame, you will have to cut a lot of wood.
5. Knife for cutting insulation. The best option is a knife with a blade width of 25 mm.
6. Measuring instruments. To control the plane, a tape measure, a level and a building cord are used.
7. Construction stapler. Needed to fix films.

These materials and tools are enough to carry out the work, but the list may vary depending on the insulation technology and the heaters used.

In the course of work, it is additionally recommended to insulate the foundation of the building. It is better to do this before the start of the insulation of the outer walls - the foundation is processed in advance, after which it is sheathed with felt or jute tow. Before proceeding with the insulation of walls, it is recommended to apply an antiseptic to their surface for protective purposes.

All work related to insulation is best done in the summer, when the weather is dry and warm. If the structure is newly built, it is necessary to wait from 1 to 1.5 years, during which it shrinks.

All cracks in the building must be sealed. In the summer, it is not difficult to find them - a lit candle is brought to the surfaces of the walls, and if the flame "plays", then the place is blown. Tow, hemp or jute are suitable for sealing cracks.

hinged facade

It is also called ventilated, and it is considered the most modern way to insulate a house. This design includes: frame, insulation and exterior trim. It is mounted in such a way that there is free ventilated space between the outer cladding and the insulation.

Figure 5. Facade of a wooden house.

materials

Concerning building materials, there are a lot of them, and which one is better or worse is discussed above.

In the course of work, the following tools are used:

1. Measuring equipment. It is recommended to use a rotating laser level and building level.
2. Perforator for preparing holes.
3. Bolt gun for installation of front anchors.
4. Non-impact drill for mounting cladding elements.
5. Riveting tool - with its help, the profiles are fixed to the bracket.
6. Tools for cutting and bending metal.
7. Clips for fixing guides.

It is better to prepare all this in advance.

Facade preparation

At this stage, the following tasks are solved:

1. The boundaries of construction work are indicated.
2. Scaffold assembly.
3. Estimation of wall curvature. If the differences are not more than 90 mm, then the walls do not need to be leveled.
4. The facade is examined to determine the required thickness of the insulation and the allowable load.
5. The surface is marked. First, horizontal (along the base) and vertical (along the edges of the wall) lines are set using a level. Intermediate points are marked where the fasteners-brackets will be located.

Wooden insulation at home is not an easy task, which includes several stages.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

If the thermal insulation layer is saturated with moisture, it will lose its properties. For this reason, a vapor barrier material is installed on the inside of the facade, which regulates the passage of moisture. A hydro-windproof membrane is mounted on the outside, allowing moisture to pass through, but in itself being moisture-proof from the outside. Its secondary task is to protect the insulation from blowing.

Installation of the insulation frame

Brackets are installed at pre-designated points where the frame will be attached. For this purpose, a drill is taken and a hole for the anchor is drilled in the wall. Before inserting the bracket into it, the hole is cleaned of debris and dust. The length of the element itself should be similar to the thickness of the insulation. A paronite gasket must be mounted under each bracket to prevent heat loss.

Figure 6. Installation of insulation on the frame.

Frame sheathing

Insulation lining related to finishing the facade of a private at home - the final task of installing a ventilated facade. A frame is placed on top of the insulating layer on the brackets. This method creates an air gap. The installation work itself is carried out using self-tapping screws. The facade system must be flat, so adjustment of the guides will be required. On top of them, fastening elements of the cladding are placed - profiles, clamps or sleds. Facing is done from the bottom up, in rows.

Wet facade

This method has been relevant in Russia since the 70s of the last century. The design itself, like the previous analogue, is a "pie" of the following elements:

1. thermal insulation glued to the walls thermal insulation layer - insulation. This layer is the main one.
2. Reinforcing layer necessary to ensure the strength characteristics of the cladding. Additionally, it facilitates the plastering procedure.
3. A protective layer that protects the insulation from external influences.
4. decorative layer. With their help, the exterior of the house is given characteristic visual properties.

Each layer is assembled from the various materials described above.

Preparation of materials

In order to carry out all construction work with high quality, it is recommended to use high quality tools and materials.

To equip a wet facade you will need:

1. Socle profile. Its width should be the same as that of the insulation. Fixed with dowel-nails.
2. Primer. It will be needed to prepare the walls for the arrangement of the facade. Additionally, the type of primer that is applied to the plastered surfaces is useful, which will be done before decorating the surface.
3. Dowels in the shape of a mushroom. They are attached to the heater.
4. Glue. It is used to create a thermal insulation layer. Selected depending on the insulation used.
5. Insulation. often assembled using mineral wool.
6. Plaster composition. They create a protective and reinforced outer layer.
7. Reinforcement mesh. As a rule, a fiberglass construction is chosen, distributed in the form of a roll.
8. Decorative plaster. Thanks to it, a beautiful and bright appearance of the facade is obtained.
9. Facade paint.

The modern market offers kits that contain all the necessary materials and tools for arranging a wet facade. This is a convenient and cost-effective solution, but the components are not always suitable for a particular home.

vapor barrier

When arranging a wet facade, it is recommended to lay vapor barrier films. We are talking about multifunctional protective membranes that are mounted under various cladding. The task of such films is to shield moisture and condensate, while passing air so that the walls can "breathe". The material is laid between the mineral wool and the finish. Vapor barrier during house shrinkage does not move and does not deteriorate, due to its high strength, reliably protecting the heat insulator from atmospheric influences.

Figure 7. What is the insulation of a wooden house.

Waterproofing

Before proceeding with the installation of a wet facade, the surface of the walls must first be carefully prepared, equipped with waterproofing, this is especially important in the basement area. It is applied along the walls between the insulation and putty. Often, wood is treated with special protective compounds and fiberglass is laid. The functional task of waterproofing is to protect the walls of a building from the effects of rain, snow, and, in general, moisture.

Wall insulation

The main insulating material for the installation of a wet facade is mineral wool. This is a material with a low specific gravity, which is mounted on any foundation and does not require additional reinforcement. Mineral wool is also characterized by a good property to absorb noise. During its installation, a large amount of glue will be required, since the plates are attached to the smeared surface. In places where it is produced wiring installation, marking will be required so as not to damage the elements during the laying of the plates. It will take up to 3 days for the glue to dry completely. Adhesion is achieved in 1 day, after which, for additional strengthening, dowel-umbrellas are hammered.

Reinforcement

A reinforced base is necessary to securely fix the finish layer. The material used is an alkali-resistant mesh with a fiberglass base and a special coating. It is installed on glue, completely drowning in it. A regular mesh without additional processing is not suitable - it will lose its reinforcing properties after a year of operation.

It is allowed to reinforce the walls 1-3 days after the installation of thermal insulation. At this stage, the following is done:

1. Window and door openings, joints and horizontal lintels, external corners are processed. For this, a corner profile is used.
2. Glue is applied to the insulation with a layer of 2-3 mm.
3. A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is embedded in the adhesive.
4. Additionally, an adhesive composition up to 2 mm thick is applied.

The next stage is the finishing of the walls.

Application of decorative plaster

It is allowed to start this task no earlier than the reinforcing layer dries. On average, you will have to wait from 3 to 7 days. Finishing refers to the application of decorative plaster to the reinforcing layer.

The following requirements are imposed on plaster:

• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to moisture and atmospheric influences;
• resistance to mechanical damage.

It is important to observe the temperature conditions during the work: from +5 to +30 degrees Celsius. The applied layer should not be exposed to sunlight.

Painting

This is the final stage of the installation of the wet facade. Painting not only transforms the appearance of the building, but also performs a protective function, protecting the walls from damage, moisture and rust. Facades are painted simply, which is done independently using an ordinary brush or spray gun.

Oil, acrylate paints or antiseptics are suitable for painting a wooden house. The advantage of the latter option is high penetrating power, reaching 7 mm. After painting Allow the applied material to dry. It is recommended to cover in 2 layers and renew them every 6-10 years.

Conclusion

If you competently approach the issue of warming a wooden house, in compliance with all norms and technologies, it will turn out to be cozy and warm, providing a comfortable stay. As you can see, all the work is done independently, without the involvement of specialists, but it is important to correctly select the materials used. If you want to get a modern and high-quality home, it is recommended to pay attention to smart home systems which are suitable for wooden structures.