Do-it-yourself screed of the walls of the house: the technology of applying plaster How to make a screed of the walls of a brick house with your own hands

When cracks appear in the brick walls, the owner of the house is no longer in the mood for jokes. Before him is the task of strengthening the structure. In general, many people prefer to limit themselves to closing gaps, but it is worthwhile to understand that without eliminating the main reason, there is not much benefit from this.

See also: How to make an adobe brick with your own hands

Below we will talk about such a method as screeding the walls of a brick house that has begun to crack.

The annex has moved away

The main factor in the masonry divergence is the deformation of the foundation. Everything else is nothing more than a consequence.

With cracks that have arisen at the junction of the extension with the main house (namely, this is the problem people face most often), the connection between the walls erected at different times is broken. You can help here in several ways.

See also: How and how to close a crack in a brick wall of a house

If the rift doesn't expand anymore, it's enough:

• clean from dust and poorly adhering solution;
• primed well;
• fill with fresh cement to the full depth.

Usually such a “treatment” is enough for several years, but subsequently the crack will definitely manifest itself.

The second option is much more reliable. Here the screed is made. To do this, metal corners (up to 100 by 100 mm) are mounted at the corners of the extension, and thick steel strips with holes inside the house. Then they are connected with threaded rods at the ends and tightened with nuts.

bad link

If the brick was not laid in the correct pattern, then the bond between the rows is rather weak. This, however, does not mean that the building will necessarily crack, however, if the foundation is deformed, then the fault will form precisely in a weak place. In such a situation, the entire defective wall is screeded.

Other technology violations

First of all, they are evidenced by the gap in the masonry clearly along the seam. In this case, the blocks always remain intact. More often this problem is caused by:

• poor wetting of brick surfaces;
• insufficient pressing to the solution;
• improper preparation of the masonry mixture (little cement).

If mistakes were made when calculating the foundation or the house turned out to be heavier than planned, then cracks often form in the corners of the building. However, the lack of additional reinforcement of this part of the structure also leads to this.

Here, one screed will not be enough, since it does not fix the main problem in any way - you will have to further strengthen the foundation. You should not refuse this if you want to continue to live in the house for many years.

A responsible homeowner should tie down the house just in case as a preventive measure immediately after construction is completed. With this approach, the occurrence of cracks is reduced to zero.

If the trouble in question nevertheless happened to a mansion in which people already live, then this method will not only slow down, but also stop the process of destruction.

First of all, prepare:

• 4 wide (100 by 100 millimeters) corners, whose length corresponds to the height of the walls;
• reinforcement or a round bar with a cross section of at least 16 mm and a length equal to two perimeters of the building;
• up to one and a half meters of thick-walled ½ inch pipe;
• threaded studs with a diameter of 16 mm;
• 16 washers and nuts.

First of all, cuts are cut through the outer plaster, and removed from the corners. If this is not done, then later it will not be possible to disguise the metal ties.

The rest of the work is done in the following order:

• 150 mm pipe sections are welded to the corners on both sides;
• blanks are installed at the corners of the house;
• trimmed studs (20 cm) are welded to the fittings;
• the latter is inserted into the pipe and fixed with nuts.

If a smooth rod (circle) is used, then it can be threaded with a die, then there is no need for studs.

To tighten the nuts more tightly, you can heat the fittings with autogenous - the metal will expand, and then cool and shrink.

When the house is planned to be subsequently insulated with foam plastic or lined with siding, the studs are welded simply overlapping to the rods - such a connection will be much more reliable, and the finish of the facade will hide the unattractive appearance.

In other cases, the reinforcement is connected end-to-end with the studs. The welding area will need to be further strengthened. The best thing for this is the same pipe. Pieces up to 120 mm long are made from it. They are cut lengthwise and welded over the junction.

Nuts should be tightened in several steps, with an interval of a year.

When choosing materials, do not try to save money - too thin a corner will not be able to provide high-quality fastening of the walls. Also, there is little benefit from being too narrow.

Crack repair

After the ties are installed, you can begin to close the gaps. Not wide (from 1 to 5 millimeters) are filled with facade putty. Large (from 10 mm) require the use of a cement mortar prepared in the usual way.

Very large cracks are pre-filled with mounting foam - it will penetrate deep and provide good thermal insulation. After it dries, the wall is leveled with plaster.

Remember, in order for the crack not to reappear in the future, it is necessary to properly prepare it before sealing. It, in particular, is thoroughly dedusted with a vacuum cleaner or blown with a compressor. Before applying the plaster, the surfaces are wetted with water using a sprayer or, at worst, a broom.

It is not advisable to use reinforcing meshes in this situation - they help only when it comes to shallow cracks that form only on the surface of putty and other similar materials.

This video will help you better understand the process:

kirpichspec.com

Screed at home from cracks in the walls with reinforcement

Today, there are many ways to stop the appearance of cracks in buildings, one of which is a house screed from cracks, which is performed using various materials. Cracks are the reason for the subsequent destruction of the structure and lead to an emergency that requires immediate resolution of this problem.

House screed with fittings

To perform this type of work, certain skills and abilities in welding are required, and you should also correctly calculate the required amount of reinforcement and its diameter. These parameters are determined depending on the area of ​​the entire building and the damaged areas.

You can carry out these activities on your own, but it is better to contact a specialized organization. The professional employees of the company also take into account the degree of destruction of the building, the number of floors, the type of foundation and the type of roof, as well as the characteristics of the soil and territory.

In some cases, in places where the walls are not particularly destroyed, it is recommended to lay out new masonry, and in areas with an increased degree of destruction, pull them together with reinforced and more durable reinforcement.

Required materials for screed fittings

For screeding with fittings, the following materials and tools are required, which include:

• fittings;
• hairpins;

The technology of screeding with fittings is not complicated and consists in the following: special corners are attached to the corners of the house, into which studs are threaded and washers with nuts are screwed on. The screed of the house is carried out with the help of nuts, which are regularly tightened depending on the condition of the building.

Valve characteristics

Reinforcement is elements that are interconnected by means of concrete and are reinforced concrete beams that stretch the stress. It is also used to give increased strength and rigidity to various structures. Its components can be rigid (various angles, channels and rolled I-beams) and flexible (grids, frames and profile rods).

There are several ways to connect reinforcement to concrete, which include:

• Interaction by friction;
• shift method;
• Coupling during concreting of the reinforcement element;
• Connection at the electrochemical level;
• Compression with concrete after shrinkage.

Rebar classification

To date, reinforcement has the following classification, depending on various features.

Depending on the area of ​​use:

• strained;
• Not strained.

Depending on the intended purpose:

• Working;
• Mounting;
• anchor;
• Constructive.

Depending on the location in the structure:

• transverse;
• Longitudinal.

The main types of house destruction

The screed of the house from cracks is performed as a result of the following causes, which lead to a violation of the integrity of the house.

And these include the following:

• collapse;
• blockage;
• Extension department.

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Mostly the collapse of the house leads to the formation of cracks in the upper corners of the openings, and the walls are deformed by waves or separated by the entire surface.

This type of destruction can be complete or partial. Full involves a change in the state of all the bearing walls of the structure, and partial - only some partitions.

Light demolition of the house

The main signs of such destruction include cracks in half of the corners of the openings, deformation of the head of the walls up to one third of the height in the normal state of the foundation.

The reason for the occurrence of such processes may be the significant weight of the roof, the construction of an additional floor, as well as the absence of a reinforcing belt. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to use a steel clip on the corner supports.

The rods pass along the facade of the outer walls, and the work will require steel corners, a pipe, studs and nuts, a steel bar, subsequent cooking and painting.

Average camber

The main signs of such destruction are all the same reasons that are observed with a slight collapse, but with a probability of up to 80%.

The reasons for the appearance may be an insufficient reinforcing belt, a significant overload and the lack of a bunch of walls and corners during the initial construction of the building.

In this case, it is recommended to carry out a screed around the entire perimeter of the house in three levels of steel belts overlay to ensure better and more reliable fixation of the walls. In this case, the steel circle can be replaced by a strip, and the welding seams must be of excellent quality.

strong collapse

The main signs are the appearance of noticeable cracks in the walls and foundation of the building, as well as a combination of other causes that are characteristic of light and medium destruction. The cause of the appearance may be the destruction of the foundation of the house.

To prevent the complete destruction of the building, a continuous support and corner clips, as well as a retaining belt of the foundation, are used.

To strengthen the foundation, reinforced concrete is laid along the entire length of the base.

Description of the blockage of the house

The blockage suggests the blockage of the walls inside the house, which can be complete or partial. In all cases, welding work is carried out in the middle of the premises, which, as a rule, requires major repairs in all rooms of the building.

Complete blockage is characterized by blockage of three walls to varying degrees. The reasons may be the broken technology of building a house and an insufficient reinforcing belt. To eliminate it, a rigid steel frame on a through fastening is used.

Watch the video:

A partial blockage is characterized by the blockage of two walls, which may be caused by the negative effects of moisture or precipitation. For repair, a partial clip is used according to the principle of solid mounting.

Annex branch

In most cases, there is a combined separation of the extension of the house. The main sign is a crack at the junction with the main house or at the inner corner.

The main reasons for such destruction are the lack of attachment of the extension to the house during its construction, as well as poor foundation and possible overload of the additional premises.

The screed of the house from cracks is eliminated by such destruction by a set of measures, including the use of through, semi-through, anchor clips and supports. In this case, supports can be located around the entire perimeter of the foundation or clogged in separate places.

domunit.ru

How to tie walls to prevent your home from collapsing

From the author: Good day, my dear readers, who again faced the problem of low-quality buildings. The formation of cracks in walls and floors is no exception either for old forgotten Stalinist houses, or for newly purchased new buildings in European-style residential complexes. Noticing a crack in the wall, first of all you will think about what to do with it, after which you will puzzle over how to make a screed?

To tighten the walls when large cracks form in them is an adequate and correct solution, since this is considered a more rational and less costly way to stop the destruction of the entire building.

Can a crack break everything?

Of course, it can, if you do not attach importance to this right away. Cracks in the wall can be either harmless to integrity or turn a dwelling into a pile of stone and dust, which can take not only a lot of valuable things, but also human lives.

You see, the crack formed in the wall (in most cases) is only the tip of a huge iceberg, which confidently moves towards the foundation, destroying it too. It makes no sense to explain how dangerous the split of the foundation is, since everyone knows what it will eventually lead to.

If you think correctly, then it is not a crack that leads to the foundation, but, on the contrary, it comes from it, since only a serious physical impact can start a split from the center and take it away in two or more directions. In another way, such an injury cannot form near the building.

You may encounter other reasons if your building was built of brick, which was laid out with gross errors. Often they appear as a result of cost savings on auxiliary materials that serve as the prevention of these diseases.

Why is all this happening at all?

There may be more than one reason, since a lot of factors affect the state of the foundation. Having identified the most important ones, we are ready to present them to you:

• displacement of earthen rocks from seismic activity of the area. In the countries of the post-Soviet space, the phenomenon is quite rare, but, nevertheless, in some areas at the foot of the mountains, such cases take place. Even the Crimean mountains, not to mention the Caucasus, are no exception, from time to time making themselves felt by minor earthquakes. They are imperceptible to humans, but they can quite noticeably affect the foundations of buildings;
• climatic conditions also do not stand aside. Let nature have no bad weather, but the foundation does not think so. Due to excessive moisture or, on the contrary, its lack, earth, clay, sand, or their synthesis can sag from time to time, thereby affecting the position of the foundation, lowering one of its parts, forming cracks that will force you to tighten the walls;
• trees could grow near your house, the power of the roots of which easily breaks through the foundation. In my memory, next to my parents' house, literally three or four meters from the wall from the backyard, the previous owners planted a walnut. By the time we moved there, it was already a little more than a dozen meters in height, and its roots crept close to the building itself. After 3 years of our living there, a crack about three centimeters wide and more than two meters long opened on the outside, which was very elegantly hidden by the old owners who had gone far away with the help of putty and whitewash. The reason for this was precisely the ill-fated nut. The natural solution to this problem was to cut down a tree, which also entailed certain losses. The first is permission to cut down a tree, since it is impossible to engage in amateur activities in this matter. The second is a broken roof from falling branches, because it was insanely difficult to direct them in the right direction. And the third is a crack in the foundation, which later had to be reinforced with reinforcement;
• initially wrong project or place of construction can also cause the formation of splits in the walls of the house. Minor cracks up to one millimeter wide are not normal, but acceptable for new buildings, so if you have one, do not be alarmed ahead of time. Almost all scientists and builders claim that it takes about five years for any building to sit normally on the surface of the earth due to its enormous weight. You should not ignore such moments at all. Any crack that forms must be monitored so that it does not begin to increase in size. If this happens, then this is a sign of incorrect construction, and you need to contact the developer for the necessary advice or even help. If you notice that cracks have appeared in your house, then you urgently need to contact specialists in this field, because only they can provide you with qualified support.

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

Any distortion in the foundation and therefore in the walls requires immediate repair. Many of us may be faced with the problem of insufficient funding and the search for a more budgetary and independent restoration of the integrity of your home.

Naturally, there is a solution, and, purely theoretically, it will not require a huge amount of financial investment and physical strength from you, since pulling together a crack is a very real task for any person.

Yes, it is with the help of an artificial reinforcement screed that you can strengthen the foundation and prevent your house from splitting in half, as if the world had begun to divide into continents again.

What is a screed and what does it consist of

A screed is the only solution that will help you stop or completely cut off the likelihood of a complete destruction of the house. Why pause? You see, if the building was erected with errors in the construction itself or in an unsuitable place for this, then the process of destruction cannot be stopped. Whatever you do, you will only delay the outcome of the event. Naturally, this is if the problem is in the foundation. If you find that the wall itself was the cause of the split (it can be made of brick or wood), then everything will be a little easier.

If you have shown a desire to repair the resulting breakdown yourself, then you will need some skills, without which it will be tight:

• in order to save a lot of money and not buy an already welded screed, you can limit yourself to buying fittings and electrodes, and then self-welding the required size of the reinforced mesh. So, the first is welding and the skills to use it.
• fittings. Something without which you will not be able to make a screed either for the foundation of the house, or for its brick or wooden components. She will be exploited in many ways, but her presence is mandatory. Why? The reinforcement has the necessary ratio of size and strength in order for the structure itself to be as convenient, reliable and, if necessary, aesthetic as possible;
• to strengthen the lower part of the base of the house, you will need a large amount of concrete mortar, the method of which I will describe a little later;
• piles will come in handy when forming the area that needs to be poured with concrete. And then you will need to give it the desired shape. Don't skimp on them, as poor quality wood can break and force you to redo all the work. If you are not interested in the aesthetic beauty of the foundation, and you do not want to spend extra money on logs, think about how much money you will throw away on extra concrete mortar, which will certainly spread around the house for a distance of about half a meter.

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

We read stories and theories, but how to do it all in practice - we will analyze now. The very first thing you will need to do is arm yourself with a shovel and, if possible, equip several of your friends or hired workers with them to speed up the process. Start digging in the ground where the split originates. Go deep to a depth of about half a meter. It is possible that more depth will be required, given that it depends on the height of the building, its number of storeys and the load that it creates. You can find out the depth of the foundation from the plan for building a house.

It is necessary to dig not only the place where the breakdown occurred, but also along the house at a distance of one and a half, and preferably two meters. This distance is also determined situationally and individually for each building. What is a big moat for? If you strengthen a small part, then the split will repeat much faster than you have time to cook dinner and raise a glass to a job well done.

The second stage will be the construction of a reinforced mesh. Reinforced mesh consists of rebar welded in such a way as to create a network with squares, the side of which can be at least ten centimeters. If you reduce this distance, then the mortar may simply split in two without fixing the required area.

An increase in this indicator leads to the fact that the reinforcement process in no way contributes to an increase in strength, but only creates the appearance of the work performed. If the financial issue does not play a big role, then it is better to make the grid double, that is, build it in two levels. This will require more concrete, but will give additional strength.

A small life hack: it is quite possible that you do not have enough funds to purchase the required amount of screed fittings. If time does not allow you to wait, then you can replace it with an ordinary concrete pillar. Yes, it will not give the same level of durability, but it will serve as a temporary building quite confidently. And if we take into account that there is nothing more permanent than something temporary, then we get a great alternative.

Having built the grid, you need to firmly fix it on the foundation of the house. Drill holes and install mesh. You can take your time to close up the resulting cavities, because in the next step everything will become more clear. This concludes the third stage.

The fourth is the installation of piles. In some cases, they are not needed, but if you have done a serious digging to the house, then they will come in handy. Install the piles and wooden railings in order to proceed to the next step.

Fill everything with concrete. A very important point is precisely the fact that in no case should you fill the screed by manually filling the cavity between the mesh and the house. This process involves only pouring concrete mortar. Otherwise, all the work will be done in vain and the result will not show any. The building will continue to deform.

After you have done everything that we have indicated above, wait until the concrete hardens. This will take up to one week, depending on the climatic conditions of your area.

But what if the trouble happened on the masonry?

It is much easier to pull off the walls of a brick house, but it is unlikely to lead to a complete solution to the problem.

The reason for the formation of holes between the bricks, if the foundation of the building is not affected, is the incorrect laying of the stone itself. The right solution is to tear down the wall and rebuild it, but if you can't afford to tear it down and rebuild it, then there is a solution. Let's look at it step by step:

1. Determine the location from which the fault began. It was on this row that a mistake was made in the construction.
2. Install threaded holders on one side of the wall and on the other, which will hold the reinforcement that creates tension. Do not forget that the thread must also be on the reinforced rod.
3. Pass the reinforcement through the holders and fix it. Stretch the rod as much as possible to create tension. Do not overdo it with it, as you can tear out the last brick.

If the split in the wall is small, then you can use ordinary dowels along the entire crack.

There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to properly tighten walls. If you enter into Google the query “the wall has moved away how to pull off the video”, then the darkness of assistants will instantly come running to your aid. Here, for example, is a video on what to do if a similar situation happened with a house made of timber:

But do not forget that the best help is provided by qualified professionals. Don't skimp on your home if you don't want to be left without it.

seberemont.com

Crack in a brick wall: what to do

Cracks in the walls spoil the mood worse than any other building flaw. I tried, I built, it seems that I took everything into account, and you have a crack. Unpleasant, agree. However, there are ways out, although some of them do not save the situation completely. To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with the main reasons due to which the walls are bursting at the seams in the truest sense of the word.

Factors of occurrence of cracks in the walls and solution

All of the reasons below are some kind of factors that have accelerated the occurrence of cracks. There is usually only one reason - this is the subsidence of the foundation or its individual parts. But if you do not make mistakes, which are discussed below, then the crack will either not appear at all, or will not be large.

Screed at home: basic rules

The screed of an already finished house is made in order to protect itself from the appearance of cracks or in order to prevent the crack (s) from increasing. This method has successfully proven itself and we believe that there is simply no better and more reliable way to strengthen a finished house.

Suppose we have a house with dimensions of 6 * 6 meters and a height of 3 meters. We will need:

• Steel corner: 100 * 100 mm - 4 pieces of 3 meters
• Rebar or rod: diameter not less than 16 mm - 48 meters
• Thick-walled pipe: inner diameter is equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the reinforcement - 1.5 meters
• Threaded studs: the diameter is equal to the diameter of the reinforcement - 16 pieces
• Washers, nuts: 16 pieces

From the photo it becomes clear how all the details will be used: The corner is placed at the corners of the building, sections of a thick-walled pipe are preliminarily welded onto it, the studs are welded to the reinforcement or bar, and the whole structure is tightened with nuts. Now a few tricks and rules:

• The photo shows that the stud is welded to the rod with an overlap. This is somewhat unaesthetic if it is not planned to cover the entire building with siding or similar materials. Then you can butt-weld, but additionally strengthen it with the same thick-walled tube. To do this, cut off a segment of 10-12 centimeters with a grinder, cut it along and put this kind of tire at the junction of the stud and reinforcement. Four seams are boiled and that's it, the connection is even, with small and barely noticeable tubercles in the form of halves of the tube.
• After tightening all nuts, this operation is strongly recommended to be carried out after the first summer. You can repeat it again, in a year - it will not be superfluous.
• If a rod or fittings passes through the threshold of the house, then everything needs to be calculated correctly here: so that the front door opens freely, and so that the threshold does not have to be ditched very deep.
• The thick-walled tube into which the threaded studs will go should be of such thickness that it does not burn through during welding and at the same time it is enough to heat the metal. Only in this case can we talk about the reliability of welding.
• The nuts must be tightened sequentially to avoid distortion.
• The thicker and wider the corner, the more reliable the screed will be. Do not chase cheapness - a thin corner and not wide, moreover, will not give the desired effect.
• The corners of the house, which are framed by various brick belts, need to be prepared by cutting out a place so that the corner fits snugly against the corner of the building.
• If it is supposed to screed the house with your own hands and without involving strangers, then we advise you to fix the corners with self-tapping screws or bolts directly to the corner of the building. This way you will accurately place the corner at the desired mark and stretch the reinforcement on all four sides of the house without any problems. This is done as follows: holes (2-4) are drilled in the corner closer to paradise, so that by drilling the wall under the dowel, do not break the brick. Next, the corner is exposed and marks are placed on the wall with a pencil through the holes in the corner. Now a hammer drill or impact drill in hand and go. Self-tapping screws with a hex head will hold any weight of the corner, especially since this is done temporarily, only for the sake of fixing due to the lack of "extra" hands. Before the final tightening of the nuts, it is better to remove the self-tapping screws.

How to close a crack

You need to understand that before you close a crack in the wall, you need to strengthen the wall itself. Otherwise, the crack will appear again and again, and your work will be repeated at the same time.

• If the crack is small in width, somewhere around 1-5 millimeters, then putty can be dispensed with.
• If the crack is larger, up to about 1 cm, then it is better to repair it with a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1: 3.
• Cracks of even greater width and depth, respectively, are best pre-foamed, and then repeat either point 1 or 2 - be guided by the situation. Mounting foam does wonders, believe me.
• Any crack before sealing should be thoroughly cleaned from dust, plaster or putty residues, from the ground (if the seal is closer to the base from the outside) and other debris. It is advisable to moisten with water before plastering with a sprayer or even a broom (if the building does not require a special approach in terms of cleanliness).
• It is often recommended to reinforce with a mesh, but you need to understand that this operation is useless if the wall continues to move to the side or fall down. No mesh and other similar things will save you from a newly appeared crack and you will close it again and again.

Instead of a conclusion

The crack in the wall will no longer disappear - you will putty or plaster it at most. But if you properly tie the house or strengthen the foundation, or both, the crack will no longer expand. Let's give an example: in a house where the crack reached the size of the thickness of a palm after screeding and sealing the gap for almost 15 years, a barely noticeable line appeared, resembling more a cobweb than a crack. One can only imagine how loudly the house would disintegrate if it were not pulled down in time. But even better is not to make mistakes in construction, so as not to worry about cracks later.

www.depstroi.ru

House wall screed - repair, strengthening, strengthening, restoration in St. Petersburg

Screeding the walls of a country house - standard ways to do quality work

Owners of country houses who need a screed of the walls of the house very often turn to our organization. These are country houses in which a wall has burst or cracks have appeared in the walls or foundation. In such cases, we offer the client to make a professional wall screed at home. In cases where the owners ignore these defects and do the insulation and finishing of the facade without screed work at home, this leads to disastrous consequences.

The screed of a brick house simply needs to be entrusted to professionals, since these works require not only a qualified welder and theoretical training, but also many years of experience and observation of processes for a long time. If you do such work yourself and do not guess with the loads, then all further work on the insulation and finishing of the facade will be meaningless, and these are serious cash costs.

The dimensions of rolled metal for screeding the walls of the house must be selected depending on the size of the structure, the degree of its destruction and the features of its design. Starting work on the screed of the walls of the house, it is necessary to study the cause of the destruction and try to remove it most competently. Usually this reason is a weak foundation, which will have to be strengthened and insulated. And sometimes a complete replacement of the foundation is required.

There are two ways of screeding - floating construction and rigidly tightening. The first is suitable for small buildings where the loads are minimal. A rigidly tightening is necessary for two-story and higher houses. The difference in these designs is that the floating screed simply tightens the house on threaded connections, while the rigid tie also strengthens the walls of the house by means of many anchors drilled into the walls of the house. Let's analyze each method separately in more detail.

The first way - for a one-story house with dimensions of 6.0 x 6.0 meters and small cracks in the walls up to 1 cm, a floating screed is suitable. To do this, the corners of the house will need to be vertically installed with 60 mm corners along the entire height of the house, and between themselves they should be tightened with 18 mm reinforcement (rod) or a 40 mm strip using threaded connections. When pulling the house together, one must understand that it will not shrink at one time and it will be necessary to periodically tighten the entire structure.

The second method is suitable for two or three storey houses. In these cases, corners of 80-100 mm are fixed at the corners of the house on metal anchors made of 8 mm reinforcement. Vertically through 2.5-3 meters and along the edges of window and door openings, racks from a profile pipe 60x30 mm are also mounted on anchors. Then the transverse bars are welded horizontally, which are also fixed with metal anchors. All this construction securely tightens the house and prevents its destruction. After installation, metal structures are primed and painted with enamel in the color of the house.

After contacting our construction organization, the screed of the walls of the house will be made with high quality and on time specified in the contract. And then, with peace of mind, you can proceed to the insulation and decoration of the facade. Our specialists have many years of experience in the quality of such work. In addition, we can offer you to carry out other construction services with your house, such as roofing.

www.oriongroupspb.ru

House screed - Apartment renovation StroyDonServis

Screed at home with fittings: technology, price, what to look for?

Screeding a house with fittings is a procedure carried out during the overhaul of floors, cracks in the foundation itself in a house or apartment.

To give the house screed ultimate strength for many decades, experts recommend not saving on work and reinforcing the screed.

What should be considered before carrying out work on the screed of the house with fittings?

This process must be entrusted to professionals who have serious knowledge and skills in welding, and will also be able to calculate the required diameter of the reinforcement. The required amount of reinforcement depends on the degree of destruction of the building, its number of storeys and dimensions. It is also necessary to take into account the shape and coverage of the roof, the soil, the type of foundation and even the location of the building. When screeding the house with fittings on your own, you may not take into account all these important parameters, and the quality of work may be shaken.

If the crack has gone through small sections of the house, then it is necessary to lay out the damaged sections again before performing the main work. Those areas that have suffered the most damage are recommended to be pulled together with thicker reinforcement.

For screeding a house with fittings, you will need the following materials:

• Reinforcement of the required diameter.
• Studs corresponding to the size and section of the reinforcement.

Valve installation technology

In order to screed the house with fittings, it is necessary to weld stops for the bar on the corners.

Important! The level for each wall should be different in order to avoid erasing nuts and studs.

The resulting corners must be fixed to the corner of the house, and the studs should be drilled into the stops. Then washers are put on the studs and nuts are screwed on, with the help of which the house is screeded with fittings.

During the screed at home with fittings, you do not need to sharply and too tightly tighten the nuts, do it gradually. It is advisable to tighten the nuts again about once every six months. After screeding the house with fittings, it remains to carry out the final stage - priming and painting.

What is the strap attached to?

• Stretch fittings. This is a special steel, frame or composite mesh, which is made of fiberglass.
• Dispersed reinforcement. The main materials are glass or steel fiber.

It is possible to combine these materials, but the complete replacement of one with another is not recommended by experts. It all depends on what loads on the floor will be in a particular room. For example, a leveling screed of 50 mm in residential buildings is produced with a dry mix solution, this design is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh for a steel wire screed with cells. The grid must be set carefully and competently, so that the reinforced floor screed has strong parameters.

How is floor screed made with reinforcement?

The floor screed with reinforcement is made using a steel mesh with special cells, the thickness of the reinforcement for the screed should be no more than 5 mm. Mounting is installed on special elastic mounting stands, which are previously placed on concrete bases.

How much does a house screed with fittings cost?

The cost of screeding a house with fittings depends on the professionalism and quality of work of a construction company. This type of repair work is an excellent solution for fixing small cracks and damage to the house.

Entrust the screed of the house with fittings to professionals! Our company offers a wide range of repair services at the most affordable prices. We will make your home comfortable for living! Contact the managers of our company to get acquainted in detail with our pricing policy and the widest range of services provided.

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If cracks appear in the walls of your building, we will help prevent its further destruction. In the standard version, metal corners are placed in the corners, and the strands of reinforcement run parallel to each other, above and below. Tubes are welded to the corners, and threads are welded to the reinforcement, forming a metal frame, which is pulled by a specialist in a certain sequence. If the building has extensions, ledges, etc., in such cases, additional material is used (plates, anchor bolts, etc.). The dimensions of the material for the house screed are selected by our specialists depending on the dimensions of the building. For example, for a one-story building with a size of 8x8, reinforcement Ø16 and an angle of 63 are used. If the cracks are quite large, you can put strands into three or even four belts. In the work on tightening houses, we use DC electrodes (UONI), which produce the highest quality welding of metals. Many years of experience have allowed us to produce couplers of any complexity, both single-storey and multi-storey buildings. We use a variety of methods that are effective in our work.

Let's perform work on the contraction of houses in the Voronezh region. We work all year round.

(Prices are negotiable) Tel. 8-952-543-71-25 Vladimir el. mail

Let's make products of any sizes at the request of the customer.

• Canopies (polycarbonate, profiled sheet)
• Greenhouses
• gazebos
• Fences (profiled sheet, chain-link, forging)
• Gates (forged, profiled sheet, garage)
• Gates
• Lattices
• fences
• railing
• Garages
• Aviaries
• shutters
• doors

Our organization is often approached by owners of country houses who need house wall screed. These are country houses in which a wall has burst or cracks have appeared in the walls or foundation. In such cases, we offer the client to make a professional wall screed at home. In cases where the owners ignore these defects and do the insulation and finishing of the facade without screed work at home, this leads to disastrous consequences.

The screed of a brick house simply needs to be entrusted to professionals, since these works require not only a qualified welder and theoretical training, but also many years of experience and observation of processes for a long time. If you do such work yourself and do not guess with the loads, then all further work on the insulation and finishing of the facade will be meaningless, and these are serious cash costs.

The dimensions of rolled metal for screeding the walls of the house must be selected depending on the size of the structure, the degree of its destruction and the features of its design. Starting work on the screed of the walls of the house, it is necessary to study the cause of the destruction and try to remove it most competently. Usually this reason is a weak foundation, which will have to be strengthened and insulated. And sometimes a complete replacement of the foundation is required.

There are two ways of screeding - floating construction and rigidly tightening. The first is suitable for small buildings where the loads are minimal. A rigidly tightening is necessary for two-story and higher houses. The difference in these designs is that the floating screed simply tightens the house on threaded connections, while the rigid tie also strengthens the walls of the house by means of many anchors drilled into the walls of the house. Let's analyze each method separately in more detail.

The first way - for a one-story house with dimensions of 6.0 x 6.0 meters and small cracks in the walls up to 1 cm, a floating screed is suitable. To do this, the corners of the house will need to be vertically installed with 60 mm corners along the entire height of the house, and between themselves they should be tightened with 18 mm reinforcement (rod) or a 40 mm strip using threaded connections. When pulling the house together, one must understand that it will not shrink at one time and it will be necessary to periodically tighten the entire structure.

The second method is suitable for two or three storey houses. In these cases, corners of 80-100 mm are fixed at the corners of the house on metal anchors made of 8 mm reinforcement. Vertically through 2.5-3 meters and along the edges of window and door openings, racks from a profile pipe 60x30 mm are also mounted on anchors. Then the transverse bars are welded horizontally, which are also fixed with metal anchors. All this construction securely tightens the house and prevents its destruction. After installation, metal structures are primed and painted with enamel in the color of the house.

After contacting our construction organization house wall screed will be produced qualitatively and within the time specified in the contract. And then, with peace of mind, you can proceed to the insulation and decoration of the facade. Our specialists have many years of experience in the quality of such work. In addition, we can offer you to carry out other construction services with your home, such as

Vasily Mironovich, Voronezh asks a question:

Good afternoon! My parents recently bought a suburban area with a brick house. About 2 months after purchase, a large crack was discovered on the back of the house. Friends suggested that you can pull the crack on the walls. Tell me, please, how to pull off the walls of a brick house?

The expert answers:

Very often, owners of private houses, and especially brick ones, are faced with the problem of cracks on the walls. This happens due to shrinkage of the foundation, deformation of the soil structure, with a strong flow of groundwater or improper operation of the building.

The method of repairing the wall will depend on the cause that led to the appearance of cracks. The most difficult and difficult to repair a defect that arose as a result of poor-quality installation of the foundation. In this case, in addition to repairing the wall, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate foundation defects and only after that proceed with the removal of cracks. Otherwise, if you neglect the repair of the foundation, all other work will be meaningless.

Most often, cracks near the walls of a brick house appear above the openings of doors or windows. If they are small, then they can be filled with a special liquid fraction. This is done in such a way that it fills all the empty space. If this method did not help, then you need to strengthen the window and door lintels.

In the event that such measures did not help, you need to think about how to pull off the wall of a brick house. Such measures are used to eliminate large cracks. To eliminate the vertical gap in the brick, holes are drilled through, into which metal fasteners are then inserted. These fasteners are steel beams, which are pulled together with special studs. When the damage to the masonry is very significant, the wall opening should be completely disassembled and laid out again.

If the damage on the building is located in a horizontal position, in order to correctly eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to use metal plates. Such plates must be installed in the gap so that a seam connection is obtained. This will allow for a reliable strengthening of the structure of the house. This must be done, since such horizontal damage can lead to the fact that the wall is completely displaced.

When the damaged sections of the building have both a horizontal and a vertical direction, steel brackets must be used. Holes are punched in the wall for their fastening. And the final fastening is done with steel strips.

When repairing masonry, it should be remembered that the sooner a crack is detected, the more effectively it can be eliminated. This is due to the fact that the longer it is unattended, the larger it becomes. In the future, this will lead to the fact that the house cannot be repaired and it will completely collapse.

Today, there are many ways to stop the appearance of cracks in buildings, one of which is a house screed from cracks, which is performed using various materials. Cracks are the reason for the subsequent destruction of the structure and lead to an emergency that requires immediate resolution of this problem.

House screed with fittings

To perform this type of work, certain skills and abilities in welding are required, and you should also correctly calculate the required amount of reinforcement and its diameter. These parameters are determined depending on the area of ​​the entire building and the damaged areas.

You can carry out these activities on your own, but it is better to contact a specialized organization. The professional employees of the company also take into account the degree of destruction of the building, the number of floors, the type of foundation and the type of roof, as well as the characteristics of the soil and territory.

In some cases, in places where the walls are not particularly destroyed, it is recommended to lay out new masonry, and in areas with an increased degree of destruction, pull them together with reinforced and more durable reinforcement.

Required materials for screed fittings

For screeding with fittings, the following materials and tools are required, which include:

• fittings;
• hairpins;

The technology of screeding with fittings is not complicated and consists in the following: special corners are attached to the corners of the house, into which studs are threaded and washers with nuts are screwed on. The screed of the house is carried out with the help of nuts, which are regularly tightened depending on the condition of the building.

Valve characteristics

Reinforcement is elements that are interconnected by means of concrete and are reinforced concrete beams that stretch the stress. It is also used to give increased strength and rigidity to various structures. Its components can be rigid (various angles, channels and rolled I-beams) and flexible (grids, frames and profile rods).

There are several ways to connect reinforcement to concrete, which include:

• Interaction by friction;
• shift method;
• Coupling during concreting of the reinforcement element;
• Connection at the electrochemical level;
• Compression with concrete after shrinkage.

Rebar classification

To date, reinforcement has the following classification, depending on various features.

Depending on the area of ​​use:

• strained;
• Not strained.

Depending on the intended purpose:

• Working;
• Mounting;
• anchor;
• Constructive.

Depending on the location in the structure:

• transverse;
• Longitudinal.

The main types of house destruction

The screed of the house from cracks is performed as a result of the following causes, which lead to a violation of the integrity of the house.

And these include the following:

• collapse;
• blockage;
• Extension department.

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Mostly the collapse of the house leads to the formation of cracks in the upper corners of the openings, and the walls are deformed by waves or separated by the entire surface.

This type of destruction can be complete or partial. Full involves a change in the state of all the bearing walls of the structure, and partial - only some partitions.

Light demolition of the house

The main signs of such destruction include cracks in half of the corners of the openings, deformation of the head of the walls up to one third of the height in the normal state of the foundation.

The reason for the occurrence of such processes may be the significant weight of the roof, the construction of an additional floor, as well as the absence of a reinforcing belt. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to use a steel clip on the corner supports.

The rods pass along the facade of the outer walls, and the work will require steel corners, a pipe, studs and nuts, a steel bar, subsequent cooking and painting.

Average camber

The main signs of such destruction are all the same reasons that are observed with a slight collapse, but with a probability of up to 80%.

The reasons for the appearance may be an insufficient reinforcing belt, a significant overload and the lack of a bunch of walls and corners during the initial construction of the building.

In this case, it is recommended to carry out a screed around the entire perimeter of the house in three levels of steel belts overlay to ensure better and more reliable fixation of the walls. In this case, the steel circle can be replaced by a strip, and the welding seams must be of excellent quality.

strong collapse

The main signs are the appearance of noticeable cracks in the walls and foundation of the building, as well as a combination of other causes that are characteristic of light and medium destruction. The cause of the appearance may be the destruction of the foundation of the house.

To prevent the complete destruction of the building, a continuous support and corner clips, as well as a retaining belt of the foundation, are used.

For applying reinforced concrete laying along the entire length of the base.

Description of the blockage of the house

The blockage suggests the blockage of the walls inside the house, which can be complete or partial. In all cases, welding work is carried out in the middle of the premises, which, as a rule, requires major repairs in all rooms of the building.

Complete blockage is characterized by blockage of three walls to varying degrees. The reasons may be the broken technology of building a house and an insufficient reinforcing belt. To eliminate it, a rigid steel frame on a through fastening is used.

Watch the video:

A partial blockage is characterized by the blockage of two walls, which may be caused by the negative effects of moisture or precipitation. For repair, a partial clip is used according to the principle of solid mounting.

Annex branch

In most cases, there is a combined separation of the extension of the house. The main sign is a crack at the junction with the main house or at the inner corner.

The main reasons for such destruction are the lack of attachment of the extension to the house during its construction, as well as poor foundation and possible overload of the additional premises.

The screed of the house from cracks is eliminated by such destruction by a set of measures, including the use of through, semi-through, anchor clips and supports. In this case, supports can be located around the entire perimeter of the foundation or clogged in separate places.

If it so happens that a crack has gone along the load-bearing wall or foundation, this is not a sentence yet, it's just time to take drastic measures to strengthen the entire structure. We will talk about the simplest and most popular methods for maintaining the integrity of a building in this article.

Note. The article uses conditional terminology.

When purchasing a ready-made house, the new owner in all cases is dealing with a pig in a poke. And it doesn't matter if it's a new building or a renovated old one. Builders build and repair cottages and private houses in a fantastically short time, which always affects their stability and durability. Regardless of the reasons for the appearance, a crack is a frequent and faithful companion of stone buildings and structures. We will talk about the most difficult cases of these unpleasant and dangerous defects - structural cracks, which serve as signals about the appearance of mobility of load-bearing elements. To stop the development of a crack, you should stop the movement and fix the elements, and then repair and "mask".

Note. A crack in the finish does not always mean the presence of defects in the wall material. You should verify that it is the carrier material that is damaged by removing part of the finish and exposing the defective area for observation.

Let's leave the theory and consider the three most common cases of the appearance of the mobility of elements: collapse, blockage and separation of the extension.

collapse

In the case of collapse, the walls and corners have a visual deviation from the vertical outwards, sometimes in waves. Walls can also be wave-like deformed or deviated by the entire plane. In most cases, this is accompanied by the appearance of cracks in the upper corners of door and window openings.

According to the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

1. Complete. All load-bearing outer walls are deformed to varying degrees.
2. Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall collapses, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Depending on the degree of collapse of the walls, measures of different depth of impact are used. We will conditionally divide the degree of collapse into three categories - light, medium and strong, and tell you what to apply in each of the cases.

Easy collapse

signs

The wall heads are noticeably deformed in the area up to 1/3 of the wall height (without the height of the foundation). Cracks at the corners of openings in 50% of cases. The remaining sections of the walls and foundation are normal (without cracks, deformations).

Cause

It arises due to the unreliability or absence of an armored belt, roof overload, during the construction of an attic floor on old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted for snow load.

Elimination Method

In this case, it is reasonable to use a steel mono-clip (hereinafter referred to as the clip) on the corner stops for wall screeding. In this case, as in all cases of using various clips, the rods will pass from the outside along the facade of the load-bearing walls, standing in the shape of a rectangle. Sometimes it is necessary to make technological openings for rods in the walls of extensions.

What you need:

1. Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
2. Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
3. Threaded stud 20 mm - 4 m.
4. Nuts and washers for studs.
5. A circle (steel bar) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - the length of the perimeter of the house.
6. Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, because it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on a steel corner 100x100 mm long, equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

1. Rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes with a length along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
2. Then, studs with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
3. The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
4. The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
5. The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are designed to fix walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaches and sagging areas.

The design of the steel clip may vary. For example, in the case of wave-like deformations, a channel can be used as one, several or all four rods. Installation will be more difficult, but the entire load from the wall will be evenly distributed over the rigid channel.

Average camber

signs

All signs of light collapse extend to the level of 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armored belt. Absence of a bunch of corners and masonry in the material of the walls, high wear of the material, overload.

Elimination Method

In these cases, a solid corner clip is used. It is arranged similarly to a mono-clip, but along the entire height of the wall and has more screed belts. With an average collapse, it is recommended to arrange three belts.

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! Welds must be of good quality (they hold the load). Overlap - 250 mm.

strong collapse

signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the vast majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often deformations of the base or foundation in combination with the causes of light and medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination Method

For repair, a solid corner clip and a retaining wall (support) or a foundation retaining belt are used.

Retaining wall or support - part of the reinforcement belt applied to the deformed area.

A retaining belt is a repair structural element designed to reinforce existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. The material is reinforced concrete.

Support device. Consider the example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such drastic measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations in the direction of increasing the margin of safety. The thickness of the backwater should be 50% of the thickness of the foundation wall, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the support and the foundation should be on the same level. The optimal ratio of above ground to underground is 1 third above ground, 2 thirds underground.

Attention! The reinforcing bars at the corners must be solid (curved at 90°). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three thicknesses of the support.

Work order:

1. We dig out the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the foundation wall from oils and organics, the remnants of waterproofing.
2. We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the foundation wall to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
3. We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the backwater plus 200 mm (driven into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
4. We tie the working reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm to the pins with a knitting wire in increments of 200 mm.
5. We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the beam frame (support) 600x360x600 mm (blank length 1600 mm) and install them in 200 mm increments.
6. We set the formwork to size.
7. We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
8. After the concrete has set (3 days), we remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
9. We produce backfilling of soil with tamping and spilling.

Support reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

The cost of the device 1 running. m of support 400 mm thick, 600 mm high in the production of concrete on site:

obstruction

The walls are piled into the building. It can be complete or partial (incomplete). In different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong), one method of stopping is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, it will be necessary to carry out welding work indoors, which is most often associated with a major overhaul of the entire building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

sign

Three or more walls (to varying degrees) are littered inside the building.

Cause

Weak armo-belt, wear of material, violation of technology during construction (weak mortar, lack of reinforcement of corners, etc.).

Elimination Method

Rigid spacer self-supporting steel cage (frame) on a through fastening.

What you need:

1. Perforator with drill 18-20 mm.
2. Channel 50x100-150 - length equal to the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced.
3. Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
4. Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses per linear meter of the frame.
5. Good welding (tension), coloring.

Operating procedure:

1. Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
2. We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
3. We drill through holes 18-20 mm.
4. We weld reinforcement pins perpendicularly onto steel plates with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
5. We install the resulting anchors in the holes with the plate facing out.
6. Trying on the inside of each channel, mark it under the holes.
7. We burn holes in the channel for fittings by welding.
8. We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
9. We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
10. We weld the pins in the holes.
11. In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
12. When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded overlays from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
13. We strengthen the corners in any way possible (for welding).

The ideal option for such a clip is if it is then closed by a false ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal traction. If a false ceiling is not expected, we close the bus with a box.

Attention! The plates on the outside and the fittings welded to them, passing inside the wall, are a strong cold bridge and it will destroy the wall with condensate. Be sure to insulate the plates, and preferably the entire wall.

Partial blockage

sign

One or two walls are littered.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with a tram). Rinse with atmospheric water.

Elimination Method

The device of a partial clip according to the principle of continuous. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the littered wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

The device of a partial inner clip: 1 - a wall with a blockage; 2 - reinforcement with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

With combined collapses / blockages (when the walls diverge in different directions), the inner frame (first of all) and the outer screed (secondary) are used together. In severe cases, all amplification options are used at once or their combinations.

Calculation of the cost of 1 linear meter of the inner clip:

Annex branch

Let us consider the most complicated and at the same time popular case, the combined one.

sign

Through crack along the inner corner or at the junction of the extension with the main building with a medium or strong collapse of the outer wall.

Cause

Lack of binding to the wall of the main building during the construction of the extension (in 90% of cases). Weak foundation under the extension walls. Overloading of the extension (superstructure, balcony).

Elimination Method

Combination of a through, semi-through or anchor cage and support:

1. Through cage - rods pass through the load-bearing wall and are fixed (nuts, welding) on ​​a thrust rail or plate located on the inside of the wall.
2. Semi-through clip - one side is a through type, the second is fixed from the outside to the embedded part.
3. Anchor clip - rods are fixed to embedded parts arranged on anchors in the walls of the building.

Attachment screed options: 1 - semi-through; 2 - through; 3 - anchor; 4 - corners 100x100 mm; 5 - thrust (rod, plate); 6 - main walls; 7 - plate with anchor; 8 - plate 4 mm

You can arrange any of these types of clips using the instructions above.

Rules for the installation of anchor rods:

1. The thrust rail or plate located inside the building must not fall on the top of the doorway.
2. Install embedded parts in the walls at a distance of 1/3 of the length of the extension wall, set aside from the junction of the walls, but not less than 1.5 meters. Drill 3 points with a diameter of 12 mm, a depth of 2/3 of the wall thickness.
3. If the number of anchor rods is more than 2, place them with a 1 meter difference in length.
4. The walls of the main building should not have deformations and cracks.

The support can be either separate (under the outer wall), or along the entire length of the extension foundation. In this case, the reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the main building at an angle.

Most often, the types of deformations described above occur in houses made of marl or brick laid on clay. Even in the case of the initial stage of deformations (the appearance of small cracks), we recommend applying a prophylactic screed at home on the corner clips. Remember that any metal passing through the wall into the room is a cold bridge and will negatively affect the condition of the wall if it is not thermally insulated.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru