Do-it-yourself blind area at home, from which you can make a blind area around the house. How to make ebbs around the house with your own hands: the correct blind area What is the best way to make a blind area around the house
Reliable protection of the foundation from the destruction of surface water is facilitated by the presence of a concrete blind area surrounding the building. The undoubted advantage of the design is the ease of manufacture. The only alternative option for creating a barrier would be a multi-tiered "pie". The integrity of the building directly depends on the quality of the foundation, so it needs full protection. In parallel with the main function, the blind area provides comfortable movement along the building and completes its external appearance. How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, we will consider in detail.
Blind area parameters
The dimensions of any construction of a structure and the rules for its arrangement are regulated by regulatory documents, in our case it is SNiP 2.02.01-83. The correct blind area made of concrete corresponds to the following indicators:
The device of the blind area around the house is carried out in a certain sequence, the option with paving slab cladding is shown in the diagram below:
Construction types
The scope of work on the design of the blind area around the house with your own hands varies depending on the type of design chosen, which are hard, semi-rigid and soft. Consider the main advantages and pitfalls of each option.
Rigid
This group includes monolithic concrete products. Concrete pouring or asphalt acts as a finishing coating.
Comment! If the protective structure is planned to be insulated, a rigid type of system is the only acceptable device option. It is not advisable to organize the insulation of semi-rigid and soft blind areas.
The operation of monolithic products continues throughout the life of the building. But the construction of concrete protection around the house is accompanied by negative aspects:
- The process is labor intensive and takes a lot of time.
- High material costs.
- Asphalt pavement requires tar. It is practical to use this binder only in the case of large-scale asphalting works.
- In the absence of additional cladding, it does not have a sufficient decorative effect.
semi-rigid
The protective underground layer of the semi-rigid system is represented by a multilayer cushion. Decorative coating can be made from paving or ceramic tiles, paving stones. Sometimes reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones or porcelain stoneware are used for this purpose.
To make a fill around the house, labor and materials will be required much less than on a monolithic blind area. The device technology is simpler, but unacceptable for heaving soil, which can cause system deformation. A comparative analysis of the cost, quality and external characteristics makes the semi-rigid blind area a leader in comparison with other types of protection around the house.
Advice! Compliance of the blind area of paving slabs and other paved paths contributes to the formation of an aesthetic appearance of the backyard.
Advantages of semi-rigid construction around the house:
- Subject to the technology of the device, the period of operation is from two to three decades.
- There are no climate restrictions, with the exception of permafrost.
- It can be done with a small financial investment.
- Easy to preventive maintenance.
Soft
To make soft-type foundation protection around the house, you will need a multi-layer pillow covered on top with a layer of rubble. Such a design is characterized by minimal cost and time. But it will bring benefits for a maximum of seven years. It can be done in any region, however, they resort to a similar solution for arranging temporary protection around the house with a lack of finances.
A blind area made of concrete, made in compliance with all the rules, is presented in the following video:
Technology for the manufacture of concrete pavement
The construction of a concrete protective structure around the house begins with the purchase of materials. For these purposes, you will need:
- Cement. It is optimal to stop at the M500 brand.
- River or quarry sand without impurities that can spoil geotextiles.
- Crushed stone fraction from 5 to 10 mm.
- Natural clay or geotextiles will help to make a hydraulic lock around the house.
Site preparation
Excavation work on the design of the blind area around the house begins with the removal of the top layer of soil. The use of herbicides will help to exclude the activity of vegetation under the concrete structure. To make an accurate designation of the boundaries of the blind area relative to the edge of the roof slope, use a plumb line. For marking around the house, the rope is pulled over stakes. In addition to the corners, to avoid sagging, they are installed at intervals of 5-6 m. The installation of beacons on the basement around the house with a frequency of 1.0-1.5 m will help to make the correct angle of inclination of the blind area.
hydraulic lock
A hydraulic lock can be made using a layer of greasy clay, the thickness of which is 10-15 cm. A full-fledged replacement is a waterproofing material - roofing felt, geotextile, PVC film. The film will remain intact if the protection is made with a sandy layer 5-10 cm thick, located under the material and on top of it.
Attention! The sand under the future blind area must be leveled, moistened and compacted.
The installation of the material should be done correctly without tension so that it can move around the house along with the ground. When arranging a hydraulic lock with clay, only one sandy layer is formed.
Pillow Shaping
Further, according to the technology of the device around the structure of the blind area, it is required to make a pillow. Initially, an embankment is formed from crushed stone 5-10 cm thick. The use of material of different fractions provides better compaction. Gravel or brick fight can be a replacement for rubble. With a close location to the blind area of groundwater, between sand and gravel, it is necessary to make an additional waterproofing layer of geotextile. The edges of the material must be exposed to the formwork.
The optimal thickness of the sand layer is 10-15 cm, taking into account high-quality ramming. You can do the work manually, the vibrating plate is capable of facilitating the laborious process. Periodic wetting with water increases the density of the sand cushion for the blind area around the building.
Important! The formation of a pillow around the house takes place with strict observance of the angle of inclination of the concrete blind area.
A well-equipped blind area around the house with their own hands contains high-quality drainage. The following design is able to cope with the problem of drainage:
- Around the house, it is required to make a trench about 20 cm wide to a depth of 10 cm.
- The recess is filled with rubble or made out with a drainage pipe.
- Pipe laying is carried out with a slope to make a full drainage system.
At the same stage, stormwater inlets are being installed around the house.
Formwork installation
It is better to make formwork around the house from boards 30-40 mm thick. The height depends on the size of the blind area made of concrete. If the dismantling of the structure is not planned, the boards are treated with an antiseptic solution, it is also desirable to waterproof them with a roofing material.
Correctly make formwork around the building for a concrete blind area using a level. Stakes clogged from the outside are capable of leveling the impact of the bursting solution. To fix the formwork structure at the corners, corners on bolts with a diameter of 10 mm will help. In order for the blind area to have an attractive appearance upon completion of the work, it is required to make the internal seams of the formwork boards invisible.
Important! To make a blind area around the building correctly, you will need to design an expansion joint.
The seam is located at the junction of the walls of the structure and the blind area, as well as across the system. The absence of this element will provoke the appearance of cracks in the protective structure made of concrete. It is required to make transverse seams with an interval of 2 m. Boards with a thickness of 20 mm will help to arrange the gaps of the desired size. If pouring concrete for the blind area around the building is not planned, the stage of arranging the formwork is excluded.
Insulation installation
The following algorithm of actions will help to qualitatively make the insulation of the blind area:
- Styrofoam sheets are tightly laid around the building, bricks are used as temporary fixation.
- The space between the plates is filled with mounting foam.
- After it dries, the protruding parts are removed with a sharp knife.
- On top of the foam, it is required to make a second layer of thermal insulation of the concrete blind area in the form of expanded polystyrene plates.
Reinforcement and pouring concrete
To ensure the strength of the concrete pavement around the building, reinforcement is required. The mesh size is 25 cm. It is not recommended to use a chain-link mesh due to the excessive flexibility of the material. If there is no insulation layer, the reinforcing cage is placed above the blind area pillow at a height of 2-3 cm. This design contributes to the high-quality distribution of the concrete mortar.
The key point in pouring concrete is to monitor the uniform distribution of the solution and the absence of air bubbles. "Bayoneting" will help eliminate voids, which is best done with a metal rod. In the process of drying the cement composition, it is periodically moistened with water to avoid the appearance of cracks. Also, the blind area cast from concrete can be covered with a film to slow down the evaporation of moisture and uniform hardening of the protective structure around the house.
Conclusion
As a protection of the blind area from concrete, it is possible to make it iron. There is a dry and wet processing method. Alternatively, apply a surface coating with a primer, liquid glass or enamel.
To give the protective structure of concrete around the building a decorative effect, it is preferable to make a cladding. As a material, tiles (clinker or paving), natural stone, pebbles are suitable. In such a situation, concrete acts as a binder solution.
Another option on how to make a reliable blind area around the building is presented in the following video:
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After the construction of the house is completed, it is imperative to install the blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and will also significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore the blind area can be done with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you go through all the installation steps without errors.
The appearance of the blind area
The blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: a substrate and a coating. The main role of the substrate is to create an even and solid base for laying the protective coating. Usually two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone act as a substrate. The use of clay is good in that it is able to perform a waterproofing function and not allow moisture to pass through itself, but for this it will need to be laid with high quality and to achieve uniformity of the layer. Sand is easier to use, as it can easily smooth out any uneven ground surfaces.
The coating can be any suitable material that has the following properties:
- Have sufficient strength to withstand the expected mechanical stress.
- They have high quality waterproofing properties.
- Resistant to sudden changes in temperature.
- Due to the smooth surface, they are able to qualitatively remove moisture from the foundation.
Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coatings are mainly used for blind areas.
Related article:
Photo blind areas around the house: the main types of structures
When designing a photo, blind areas around houses will greatly simplify their choice. There are such types of structures:
- Rigid. They are structures based on hard coatings that retain their shape under load without deformation. Usually made of concrete or asphalt. The terms of their service are usually compared with the duration of the operation of the building. At the cost of laying, rigid structures will cost more than others, since they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Require for installation the presence of soil of medium or high density.
- Soft. They are distinguished by simple laying technology and minimal requirements for operation. In fact, it consists of several layers of bulk materials. Requires minimal cost and physical effort for installation. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can be laid on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are used mainly for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not entirely aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the facade of the building.
- Semi-rigid. They represent a compromise between rigid and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually laid out with tiles, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several tens of years. They have excellent maintainability, since it is possible to replace or shift part of the structure without any problems. However, they have a limitation for use in areas with high groundwater, on soils with a large freezing depth and on heaving soils. The cost of installation work will be cheaper than rigid ones, but at the same time the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.
Determination of blind area parameters
In order to understand how to properly make blind areas around houses, it is necessary to correctly select its technical parameters. One of them is the width. It is determined by the current building codes and regulations, which say that it should be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually this size is counted from the gutters. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the type of material chosen, the density of the soil on the site and the magnitude of the expected loads of a variable and static nature. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is at least 1 m.
Another parameter is the degree of penetration of the structure into the ground. It is mainly influenced by the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, a soil property such as heaving has a significant impact on the structure, which can damage it literally in a year without the possibility of recovery. Therefore, the level of the filling must provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. The minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including a layer of sand and gravel cushion. If constant loads are assumed, then the thickness is recommended to be increased to 15-20 cm.
Useful information! At the junction of the porch to the house, there is no special need to lay a blind area, since the main foundation in this case will be protected. However, if a monolithic or brick porch is built, then it is recommended to protect it as well, since the weight is quite large per unit area and there is a high probability of subsidence.
For high-quality removal of precipitation, the surface must have a certain slope. The angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other hand, by the convenience of using the structure as a footpath or for other purposes. The optimal value is considered to be 2-3 °.
In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it 5 cm higher from the ground surface. If there are trees or shrubs near the house, they will need to be uprooted at a distance of up to about 1.5 m from the house.
Attention! It is possible to protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a curb.
Preparatory work
Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:
- Territory marking.
- Carrying out earthworks.
- Underlayment laying.
We carry out the marking of the territory for the installation of a blind area
With the help of pegs around the perimeter of the house, it is necessary to mark up. To do this, we measure a distance of 1 m from the walls with a tape measure and drive wooden pegs to a depth of 0.5 m in the corners so that it is possible to carry out earthworks without moving them from their place. We pull the rope on them.
Useful information! If the building has a large area, then it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.
Earthwork stage
Using a shovel, it is necessary to dig a trench according to the markings made. The depth is determined by the type of structure chosen, climatic features and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3° from the building. This is easy enough to do by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.
Since the main foundation and the blind area design will have different coefficients of thermal expansion, it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping digging, a damping layer based on polyurethane tape should be laid along the wall.
The bottom of the trench should be carefully compacted with a special tool, which is a steel rod with a flat sheet welded on at the lower end. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use an ordinary log.
Laying a pillow under the blind area
At the bottom of the prepared trench, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and fill in a layer of sand 10-20 cm thick, depending on the type of construction and the depth of the trench, with careful tamping and leveling. For the convenience of work, it is recommended to shed the layer with plenty of water in order to maximize its compaction. However, before laying the outer layer, you will need to wait until the pillow dries.
Important! If construction is carried out in an area with a high location of groundwater, then a drainage system will need to be installed. It is a pipe with holes in the upper part, which is located around the perimeter of the building and is connected to the storm sewer system.
On top of the sand, it is necessary to fill in gravel with a fraction size of up to 5 cm, and level the top layer with crushed stone with a grain size of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the formed pores.
Useful information! Rubble can be replaced with other types of stone or even brickwork. The most important thing is to use a homogeneous material so that areas with different strength characteristics are not created.
How to make a blind area around the house?
The installation process depends on the type of construction and the material chosen. For example, when laying a soft structure, no additional work will be required, but when installing a rigid structure, you will need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to properly install will be described in the following subsections.
Installation of a rigid blind area
It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat and waterproofing layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes, it is recommended to use heat-insulating materials that are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical loads. An example would be styrofoam or polystyrene boards.
Attention! Before laying, it is necessary to install the formwork, which is recommended to use boards laid from the inside with a waterproofing film. Such a solution will prevent the absorption of moisture from the subsequently poured concrete solution and it will be able to gain design strength. Otherwise, the dehydrated parts will become brittle and the service life will be significantly reduced.
To understand the technology of pouring a blind area around a concrete house, how to make formwork and what sequence of actions to follow, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:
- From the corner of the building along the wall, we install the first plate, checking the correct position using the building level.
- We fix the insulation on a suitable type of fastening, firmly pressing it against the wall.
- We install butt to the first plate the next one with a minimum gap.
- We carry out the fixing of the plate, and the joint is carefully sealed with construction foam.
- Similarly, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with heat-insulating material.
Attention! If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, then it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with dressing of the joints of the two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, ready-made meshes with a bar diameter of 8-10 mm and a cell size of 10-15 cm are used. It is important to carry out the laying in such a way that the steel bars are in the concrete layer. To do this, you need to use special plastic props.
It is recommended that the structure be poured with a concrete solution of the M400 grade or higher, and at a time, so that the structure acquires maximum strength. Therefore, you need to calculate the approximate volume in advance and order the solution in the right amount at the cement plant.
When pouring, it is important to create a uniform layer, for which the concrete is carefully smoothed over the surface with a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution must be stirred to remove air bubbles from the layer. After driving the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface as a rule. The side parts of the formwork will serve as guides.
At the final stage, the surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To ensure ideal conditions for concrete to harden, it will be necessary to cover the entire upper part with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. The curing time is 28 days depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.
Installation of a soft blind area
A soft blind area around the houses is laid on a waterproofing layer laid on top of a sand cushion. As an insulating material, it is recommended to use rubemast, which has an increased service life. Laying is carried out with an overlap at a distance of 10-15 cm, not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The connecting seams are sealed with bitumen under the heat of the burner.
On top of the waterproofing, it is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of a dry mixture of sand and gravel in the same proportions. Then the surface should be carefully compacted and leveled. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the angle of inclination. Another layer of crushed stone with a grain size of not more than 5 mm is laid on top of the embankment and is also compacted.
Do-it-yourself semi-rigid blind area: step by step instructions
Is it possible to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is completely solvable and a reliable blind area can be created with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on the prepared sand and gravel cushion, on top of which a layer of sand 8-10 cm thick is additionally poured. For paving
How to repair the blind area?
The blind area around the house, if you do not know the nuances of laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay tiles, will obviously contain such defects that will emerge sooner or later and require repair work. Restoration is made depending on the degree of its damage:
- If there are cracks no more than 1 mm, repairs are not required, since they are not critical and in no way will worsen the performance of the structure.
- If the size of the cracks is up to 3 mm, then it is recommended to apply the filling with a water-cement mortar in the same proportions. After the mortar dries, a durable layer will be created that will provide maximum protection for the foundation of the building.
- For cracks up to 3 cm, it will be necessary to fill with concrete mortar, having previously cleaned them of dirt and treated them with a deep penetration primer. It is also allowed to use waterproof putties or sealants.
- Cracks more than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate it and maintainability. It may be necessary to remove part of the top layer and level the pillow. After making sure that the bearing capacity of the structure is sufficient, concrete should be poured.
- The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement composition to the surface in order to strengthen it.
Conclusion
It is shown that a do-it-yourself blind area installed can last a long time if step-by-step instructions were used and building technologies were followed. The main installation methods for all types of blind area are given. Some methods of repairing damage to the outer surface of the structure are indicated.
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The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from damage, which can be caused by contact with atmospheric moisture. Additionally, the blind area will protect the structure from the destructive effects of the roots of various plants. Many owners ignore the need for this element device absolutely in vain. The blind area can be made with your own hands, and thanks to this element, which is easy to erect, the service life of the building will increase significantly.
The blind area performs a number of important functions, including:
- ensuring reliable protection of the foundation of the house from the harmful effects of atmospheric moisture and other negative factors;
- diversion of any kind of water from the building into the drainage system. Special discharge gutters are equipped on the surface of the blind area, due to which the risk of wetting the base and base is significantly reduced;
- improving the appearance of the building. Thanks to the blind area, the foundation will look more harmonious and complete;
- additional insulation of the foundation. Subject to the correct arrangement of all layers of the structure or the use of special heat-insulating materials, the soil close to the house will freeze much less;
- practicality. Quite often, the blind area is used as a convenient path around the building, along which you can move without harming plants and other landscape elements of the site.
Thus, the blind area is a functional and aesthetic element that must be equipped around your home. Study the proposed instructions, and you can make a high-quality and reliable blind area with your own hands.
The structure under consideration consists of covering (upper) and underlying (lower) layers. Due to the underlying layer, the evenness of the surface is ensured. However, the base should not be 100% horizontal, but should have some slope.
If concrete is used as the top layer, the bottom layer must be made horizontal. The slope will be created already directly at the stage of pouring concrete. Thanks to the slope, fast and high-quality water drainage from the facade of the building will be ensured.
At the end of the work, a drainage groove is created along the outer edge of the perimeter of the blind area. The slope is usually maintained at the level of 5 cm per 1 m of the width of the blind area.
The underlayment and overburden can be made from different materials. So, clay, gravel and gravel are suitable for arranging the lower layer.
Practice shows that it is best to use crumpled clay as the basis. This material initially has good waterproofing properties. The standard thickness of the bottom layer is 25-30 cm. If the base of the blind area is made of clay, it will be enough to equip a 15-20 cm layer of the substrate.
When using gravel or gravel, sand must be poured over the main part of the underlying layer. The thickness of a separate additional layer of sand should be 7-10 cm.
For the construction of the cover layer, use a hard and moisture-proof material. The most commonly used materials are concrete, natural stone, asphalt. Sometimes paving slabs and bricks are used.
Preparation for work
Before starting work, you need to decide on the main parameters of the future blind area. First of all, set the appropriate width. Most regulatory documents indicate that the blind area should be at least 60 cm wide. However, this is only the minimum recommended value. Before finally choosing the right width, there are many additional important factors to consider.
First of all, pay attention to the features of the eaves of the roof of your house. The outer border of the blind area should be approximately 25-30 cm further than the most protruding edge of the roofing cornice.
At the design stage of the blind area, one cannot but take into account the architectural and design features of the house. For example, if the site is decorated using all sorts of unusual design elements, the blind area can also be given an original look by correctly and organically linking it with other elements of the landscape.
A very important parameter is the type of soil at the construction site. For example, if the house is on subsiding soil, the blind area should be at least 90-100 cm wide. Experts recommend that the blind area be more than 1 m wide. Under such conditions, the design in question can simultaneously drain water and serve as a convenient path around the building.
It is important that the blind area is continuous. Any kind of web breaks can lead to a decrease in the protective functions of the blind area.
After determining the appropriate width, you will need to set the optimal value of the slope of the blind area. In order for the design to effectively cope with the tasks of diverting water, the slope should be at least 2-5 degrees in the direction from the house.
To determine the exact value of the slope, you must also consider climatic features, characteristic of the location of the house, and the type of material used to equip the top layer of the structure. For example, if the flooring layer is made of paving slabs, the slope of the blind area can be slightly reduced compared to that for a crushed stone structure.
The slope can be directly created at the stage of laying the bottom layer or during the installation of the front cover. This moment depends on what specific materials are used to equip the structure in question.
After determining the optimal parameters of the system, calculate the right amount of materials and assemble the required tools. At the stage of creating the underlying layer, you will need gravel and sand or clay.
The top layer of the blind area is most often made of concrete.. If you decide to make your choice in favor of this material, first prepare a concrete mixer or a container for preparing mortar, fittings and wire, several shovels, a level and other small accessories.
Step-by-step instructions for filling the blind area
The process of installing a blind area will be considered using the example of a concrete structure. If you are a beginner, pay attention to this option, because. in most moments, it is easier to arrange compared to other existing types of blind area. Perform every step of the work, and you will get a reliable, durable and efficient design.
First step. Mark out your home area. It is enough to measure the selected distance from the walls of the house, drive in pegs from any suitable material along the measured line and connect these pegs with a rope. Make sure that the marking points are on the same line.
Second phase. Remove the soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe blind area. The depth of the pit is selected individually, taking into account the type of system and the characteristics of the materials used. In most cases, the thickness of an ordinary concrete blind area is about 25 cm, excluding the front finish.
Third stage. Treat the roots of plants at the bottom of the trench with special herbicides. Such processing will not allow the roots to germinate in the future and disrupt the structure of the blind area.
Fourth stage. Collect formwork. As starting materials, you can use unedged boards and wooden blocks for supports. The thickness of the boards must be at least 2 cm. Place the boards along the outer edge of the trench.
Fifth stage. Seal the bottom of the trench and lay a 5 cm layer of clay on it. Carefully compact the clay, lay a 10 cm layer of sand on top of it and tamp it down. For better compaction, sand should be spilled with water. Lay a layer of gravel on top of the sand.
Sixth stage. Lay the reinforcement bars on the prepared pillow. Maintain a step of 10-15 cm. As a result, you should get a reinforcing mesh. Connect the joints with steel wire. Thanks to the reinforcement, the structure will have higher strength and resistance to various kinds of loads.
Seventh stage. At the junction of the blind area with the building, make an expansion joint. A 1.5 cm wide joint will suffice. Fill the joint space with sand and gravel or bitumen.
Eighth stage. Pour concrete. Pour in one horizontal layer. Approximately every 230-250 cm, install transverse wooden slats. Thanks to them, expansion joints necessary for the normal operation of the blind area will be created. Pick up such slats so that their top is flush with the surface of the concrete structure. Previously, the slats should be treated with an antiseptic.
Ninth stage. Carefully level the concrete and create the required slope before the mixture hardens.
Tenth stage. Cover the filling with wet burlap. As the fabric dries, it will need to be re-moistened with water. This will prevent cracking of the concrete mortar.
After about 3-4 weeks, the concrete will dry completely and gain the necessary strength. If desired, you can lay porcelain stoneware, paving slabs or other suitable material on the dried blind area.
Thus, there is nothing complicated in the independent construction of the blind area. All costs are reduced to the cost of purchasing building materials. Follow the instructions and you will be able to do everything just like a professional builder.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself blind area step by step instructions
The blind area is a simple element that can significantly extend the life of a building. It is also an indispensable part of decorating the local area.
That do-it-yourself blind area around the house looks presentable, matching or matching the materials from which the sidewalk and the entrance to the garage are paved.
Answering the question of how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands and why it is needed at all, it would be useful to list the functions of this structure.
- Protective. A properly built blind area with your own hands protects the foundation from prolonged contact with the foundation. The design provides for the drainage of water directly into the sewer.
- Decorative. The blind area around the house gives the building a complete and solid look.
- Prevention of swelling of the soil. Reducing soil freezing will avoid swelling of the soil. What's the use? There will be no soil shifts around the foundation, which means that its integrity will not be violated.
- Thermal insulation. The blind area of the house significantly reduces the freezing of the soil and the foundation as a whole. Thanks to this, the floors will be warm and the heat will not leave the house.
- Protects the plinth from dirt.
Where you may need a blind area
The blind area must be built not only near each capital building, but also near small buildings. This will create a slope for water to drain and protect the foundation. Its importance is not exaggerated at all, since this structure, created from concrete and bulk materials, has already established itself as a reliable foundation protection for many years. This means that having learned how to properly make a blind area around the house, you will not once again spend money on repairing the basement, and the walls will not crack from constant exposure to moisture.
What are the blind areas
The blind area is built taking into account how you are going to operate it in the future. The first step is to decide whether it will only perform a decorative function or be used as a sidewalk. In the first case, the slope can be made large, and in the second - minimal. Depending on their characteristics, blind areas are of different categories.
Types of blind area:
- multilayer and two-layer;
- cast, prefabricated and bulk;
- soft and hard pads.
The following materials can be used:
- wood;
- tile;
- concrete;
- reinforced concrete slabs;
- bricks;
- cobblestones;
- asphalt.
3 conditions for efficiency
In order for your blind area for the house to be effective in terms of protecting the foundation from excess water, the following conditions must be considered.
- The first and most important rule is that the blind area should be made with a slope towards the site. The type of coverage affects the slope. A reliable concrete blind area should have a slope of at least 5-10 degrees.
- In width, it should exceed the overhang of the roof by 30 centimeters. On heaving soils, it is made no longer than one meter, on sandy soils - at least 0.6 meters.
- The correct blind area is built around the entire house without gaps. Since the settlement at the blind area and at the foundation is different, it is necessary to build an expansion joint, which is covered with sand, filled with bitumen or filled with sealant.
Popular blind area devices
When cladding the facade with panels, siding or stone cladding, the blind area plays an important role, since it is the basis for installing the cladding.
In its absence, a noticeable gap appears between the skin and the ground level. This, probably, should not even be talked about, because no one will finish their facade without a pre-built blind area.
Concrete is the easiest option
The technology involves the creation of 2 layers. The first layer is the underlayment. It is necessary to create an even compacted base. For this, the following materials can be used: fine gravel, clay and sand. The choice of materials for creating the sub-base depends on what materials will be used for the second layer. The coating must be waterproof and resistant to moisture.
- Markup. The required dimensions of the structure were discussed above. The earth is removed and compacted around the entire perimeter of the building. The earth is being prepared exactly for the marked width. For a concrete structure, the earth is taken out to a depth of at least 25 cm.
- Formwork. To create the formwork, a board with a thickness of 20 mm is used. A layer of clay is placed on the compacted earth, which is also compacted. After that, a 10-centimeter layer of sand is laid. To make a good seal, it is spilled with water. Now a layer of crushed stone of 60 mm is laid.
- Reinforcement. The use of reinforcing mesh increases the stretching of the blind area in tension and compression. In addition, it will be quite difficult to destroy it - maintainability and vandal resistance increase. Reinforcing mesh is purchased with delivery to the facility. The mesh is usually sold in sheets of 2x6 meters, which is very convenient. You can fold it in half so that the width is 1 meter, this is ideal for reinforcement. You can cut the mesh with an ordinary grinder into fragments 1x2 meters in size. You can also cut into 3-meter pieces, but due to the heavy weight it is very inconvenient to carry them. The mesh is mounted in the formwork so that the distance from it to the crushed stone cushion is 2 cm. This is done in order to place the mesh inside the concrete, not on the pillow. No difficulties should arise, because no matter how you ram the pillow, pebbles will always remain above the surface. The cut fragments of the mesh must be overlapped. Excess wires are bent or cut off by a grinder. Reinforcement is the fastest and easiest step. This is enough for 2 people.
- Pouring concrete. When pouring concrete, the mesh can strongly bend - the concrete will begin to squeeze it out. You will need to quickly tamp the area or, after solidification, start cutting off excess fragments. It should be noted that this is not an easy procedure.
Waterproof option
If you are planning to make a drainage system, then a permeable system is suitable for you. This is the easiest option. Geotextile material is laid in a compacted trench, on which expanded clay, pebbles, gravel or crushed stone are laid.
Geotextile material is used to prevent crushed stone from being pressed into the base. Having chosen such a blind area, you should be prepared for the fact that it will have to be corrected regularly, and walking on it is not very convenient.
The use of paving slabs
To create a solid layer, crushed stone with sand can be used, on top of which the tiles are laid. Here you can not do without the creation of a drainage system. You can also create waterproofing at the base of the blind area with water drained into the sewer.
- We prepare the base. The earth is dug to a depth of tile size + 10 cm. To create the effect of water resistance, clay is used, which is laid at an angle to a height of 10 cm.
- PVC waterproofing layer, laid on top of the clay. Waterproofing is attached to the wall with a metal strip. Next, sand is laid with a layer of 4 centimeters, which is leveled and compacted.
- Only now you can start laying paving slabs. The solution should consist of concrete and water in a ratio of 1:4. The solution should be very thick. Tiles begin to be laid from the corner. After laying, 4 tiles are removed and a mortar is laid in their place with a layer of 4 centimeters. We install paving slabs in place using spacers and a hammer.
- After laying all the tiles and removing all the wooden spacers, it is necessary to fill the seams with sand. For the most dense filling with sand, the tile is poured with water. Even a well-made seam during operation must be periodically covered with sand.
Concrete pavement repair
We have already figured out the question of how to make a blind area with our own hands, but what to do with its breakdowns? If damage is found, repairs should be made as soon as possible to prevent the spread of structural failure. Repair should begin with determining the boundaries of the damaged area.
Several significant potholes can be combined into 1 damage. The damaged asphalt pavement is cut to the full depth with wedges and cleaned of dust. The edges, walls and bottom are lubricated with liquefied bitumen and poured with concrete. The new coating is laid a little higher than the old one, which will provide a better connection between the sections.
To repair peeling cracks and potholes, the following are used:
- fine-grained concrete;
- cement-sand mortars;
- sealing pastes;
- rubber-bitumen mastics.
A blind area is a single continuous covering encircling a house or other building around the perimeter. The arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the construction of the building. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tile, brick or other material, the blind area is constructed after the completion of the said event.
Useful advice! With the implementation of all tasks related to the arrangement of the blind area, it is necessary to cope before the arrival of cold weather.
For the manufacture of the structure in question, a variety of materials can be used: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers was the blind area made of concrete. This material is characterized by a long service life, high performance and relatively affordable cost.
Blind area around the house 
The blind area is concrete 
Stone pavement 
Brick pavement
Many owners do not fully realize the importance of the blind area, considering it to be an exclusively decorative element of the landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reviewing the information below, you will find out why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to equip it, and how to make such a coating on your own.
As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.
Table. blind area functions
| Functions | Explanations |
|---|---|
| decorative | The blind area makes the general view of the building more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete. |
| Protective | A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. This structural element does not allow moisture to contact the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of destruction of the foundation will be significantly reduced. The design is arranged so that sewage and other waters are immediately discharged into the sewer system or other suitable place, for which the required surface slope is set. |
| Thermal insulation | At this point, few people pay attention, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area contributes to a significant decrease in the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure. |
| Soil heaving prevention | As noted, the presence of a blind area can reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, swelling of the soil will also be significantly reduced. Thanks to this, good protection of the foundation of the building from shifts in the ground will be ensured, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole. |
Design features and requirements for the blind area
The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is underlayment. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. For the manufacture of this ball of construction, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.
Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals - herbicides. The use of such eliminates the growth of plant roots and grass in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.
The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protection of the foundation from water. Thickness - up to 100 mm. For the manufacture of the upper ball, asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used.
In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be found in the following image.
In order for the blind area to fully cope with the tasks mentioned earlier, in the process of its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.
- Firstly, the width of the blind area should exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width, in this case, should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, the mentioned indicator increases to an average of 100 cm.
Blind areas: a - clay gravel; b - concrete; c - asphalt; g - cobblestone; 1 - compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 - clay; 3 - cement screed 15 mm; 5 - concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 - asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 - crushed stone 10 mm; 7 - cobblestone; 8 - sand preparation 50 mm
- Secondly, the blind area must be done with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific value of the slope is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finish coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum allowable slope value, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.
- Thirdly, the blind area should be continuous, encircling the structure around the entire perimeter. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the structure will decrease significantly.
- Fourthly, the blind area cannot be associated with the foundation - these systems are characterized by varying degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum expansion joint of 1-1.2 cm must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or filled with sand.
Varieties of blind areas and their purpose
Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators, all existing types of blind area can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.
Table. Types of blind area
| Group of blind areas | Description |
|---|---|
| This group includes monolithic structures made of concrete, paved blind areas, as well as coatings equipped with a bulk method (cement mortar is used) on crushed stone, followed by ironing the fill. A monolithic structure, ceteris paribus, will serve no less than the building encircled by it. A significant disadvantage of such a system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is financially expedient only when performing large-scale road asphalting works. Important! If it is planned to insulate the blind area, a rigid system is the only possible option - it is pointless to insulate soft and semi-rigid coatings. Additional disadvantages of hard blind areas include their low decorative performance - a concrete or asphalt site can hardly be called very beautiful. |
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| The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multi-layer pillow, the top - paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options), reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, etc. can be used. Self-leveling coatings are relatively easy to install, they require much less labor and financial investment compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving type soils. |
|
| A multi-layer pillow is set up, a layer of gravel is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor intensive. The disadvantage of soft blind area is the low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. Yes, and it is not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that it is advisable to use a soft blind area only as a temporary solution if there are problems with finances, time or labor resources - it is unlikely that you will like to do the same thing every 5-7 years. |
The most optimal type of coatings in terms of cost, quality and appearance are semi-rigid blind areas. They serve up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resources for their arrangement.
An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind area is an attractive appearance. For example, by making paving slabs, the owner gets at his disposal a very beautiful area, no different from traditional garden paths. At the same time, semi-rigid blind areas are equipped in the same order - only the material of the finishing coating differs (usually it is paving stones or paving slabs).
Prices for paving slabs
paving slabs
The underlying layer (pillow) is made in the same order, regardless of the type of blind area chosen (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system, related issues will be considered separately).
As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft gravel blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of gravel and an additional layer of sand are poured over the pillow shown in the image, after which tiles / paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel pad is equipped, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.
Sand cushion under the blind area 
Rubble pillow
The arrangement of the pillow is described in the table.
Table. Do-it-yourself blind area pillow
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. Depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended indicator is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater convenience, you can pre-make the markup, based on the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or go the simplest way: Drive metal rods or wooden pegs into the ground in the corners of the future blind area; Drive in intermediate pegs; Pull a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials for this, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the chosen type of blind area, at the same stage, you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the points of inclination. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with effort, and continue until the whole earth is rammed. |
|
| Vertically evenly drive intermediate pegs into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will act as formwork supports. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it no longer makes sense. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is shown in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks. |
|
| Boards with a thickness of 3-4 cm are suitable for the construction of formwork. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can pre-mark the boards with the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. You can tighten the corners of the structure along the outside with corners. To fasten the elements, it is preferable to use bolts - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be enough. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden components with an antiseptic and wrap it with roofing felt or other insulating material - unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which will not have the best effect on the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows reinforcement. We are not paying attention to it yet. Note two. The image shows a variant with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - this moment does not matter in principle. In general, you can do without such supports, ensuring the stability of the boards with the help of bricks / blocks installed on the back side. Important! The temperature seam is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the equipped structure. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences: as a result of heaving of the soil with temperature differences, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged on average with a 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick in the indicated increments, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden structural elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic before use. If a blind area is planned that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it's just more convenient with it. |
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| Pour a 10-15 cm (depending on the initial depth of the pit) layer of sand into the trench. If possible, use fine river sand. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is carefully compacted. You can use the same method as for tamping the soil. Spill the sand with water for better compaction. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after tamping, and not the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is covered with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different fractions so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or brick battle. This layer of the cushion will ensure the removal of moisture that has penetrated through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If a high location of groundwater is noted at the construction site, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and gravel layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration, 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the formwork walls. Do not forget to maintain the specified slope of the surface (if provided) when filling sand and gravel. |
The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the features of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common options for the design in question.
Soft crushed stone blind area
In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of gravel. To broaden your horizons, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with an alternative arrangement for such a design using additional waterproofing material.
Pre-dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the above instructions, then follow the steps below.
Table. Soft blind area
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing material, but we recommend giving preference to rubimast - it costs a little more, but it lasts much longer. In this example, a formwork 80 cm wide is set up. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. In order not to cut the material, simply bend its excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or another suitable composition. |
|
| A 10 cm layer of a mixture is poured over the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel / crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope. | |
| On top of the sand and gravel backfill, you can pour an additional 3-5 cm (or to the top) layer of gravel and compact it well - so the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it. |
Temporary soft gravel blind area is ready. If desired, you can hide the formwork boards with decorative borders.
Prices for crushed stone
Basic information
As noted, the technology for arranging a blind area with a finish coating in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of a particular material is up to the owner, but there are a few important considerations.
So, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the shortcomings of paving stones, one can only note a relatively high cost.
Tile is one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging the blind area. This option has a number of significant advantages:
- tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the amount necessary to fill the site;
- the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finish option that the owner wants to see it;
- tiles can be laid on their own, spending relatively little time on this - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks until the concrete hardens.
Prices for paving stones
paving stones
What tile to use?
When choosing a tile for the blind area, follow the tips below.
Council the first. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibrocompression method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of acquiring a fake for yourself, because. the manufacture of this finish in artisanal conditions is impossible - for the production of tiles of this group, serious expensive industrial equipment is used.
Vibrocast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the actual quality of such products usually remains a mystery.
Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program - so you can choose the pattern you like best and make it easier for yourself to continue the work. If you wish, you can use one of the ready-made options presented in the images.
Tip three. Choose tiles for paving the blind area that will go well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.
Paving technology
You have already made a pillow for the blind area. Further work is performed in the sequence shown in the table.
Table. Do-it-yourself tile blind area
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| As you can see on one of the above images, blind area cushion with paving tiles has an additional top layer in the form of sand backfill. Pour 8-10 cm of sand over gravel. Recommendations in leveling and material rammers are similar previously equipped layer. |
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| Proceed to paving the blind area. Tiles lay from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place the elements according to the principle of brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in adjacent rows. You can choose a specific styling option from the previously proposed illustrations or come up with your own. |
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| A rubber mallet is used to ensure a snug fit of the tile / paving stone to the base. Working with the tool is carried out in the following order: The tile is laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer gently taps on the plank, trying hard enough, but gently, to press the tile with a mallet through the said gasket. Each tile is laid in this sequence. |
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| Using a spirit level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Sprinkle sand under the sagging trim elements, precipitate the protruding parts of the tile with a mallet, following the above guide, while maintaining the desired slope of the blind area. Pave the entire site in accordance with the above sequence. If you need to cut tiles, do it with a grinder. |
Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones / tiles. We advise you to lay the finish directly on the compacted sand - in this case, more efficient water drainage through the gaps between the tiles down will be ensured. In the case of the arrangement of cement pouring, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the appearance of ice in the cold season and all the attendant troubles.
If, due to any circumstances, a blind area without the use of a cement screed is not possible, after filling the sand layer, do the following:
- prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine-grained, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium density;
- spread the solution over the surface of the site to be equipped with a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight rail (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.
After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use an adhesive designed specifically for fixing the finishing materials in question. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the preparation and proper use of the adhesive - for different compositions, these points may differ.
Some developers even accept a cement-filled structure without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.
This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.
Concrete pavement
An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having once spent a relatively significant amount on the arrangement of a concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and most durable structure.
We will talk about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a heat-insulating layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, basement and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps that affect the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to refuse thermal insulation.
Insulated blind area made of concrete - photo of layers 
Concrete pavement - scheme
Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the depth of soil freezing. In practice, a device of a similar design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe site. In view of this, developers adhere to the "golden mean", which is 700-900 mm.
Before starting work, you need to choose a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.
- Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
- Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
- Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.
Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material for insulating the blind area is foam. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to equip the insulation in 2 layers.
The composition of the pillow for the concrete blind area remains similar to the previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.
First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements is planned), you can simply glue the insulation boards to pre-assembled boards using a binder composition designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.
Along with this, an alternative option is available: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic wrap and deepened into the ground along the blind area. If such a design remains in sight after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this.
Improvised formwork with heat-insulating material is installed along the entire length of the blind area. Bricks or building blocks can be used as supports by placing them on the ground from the back of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.
The foam plastic will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials that are poured further. For greater confidence, you can bury the plates in the ground for a couple of centimeters or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in the slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in the foam - to the formation of cold bridges.
From the insulation, in this case, you can make a damper layer between the basement of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.
After installing the side heat-insulating plates, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging the blind area with subsequent paving with paving slabs.
Table. Do-it-yourself concrete pavement
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| In this case, it was decided to use a two-layer thermal insulation of conventional foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is equipped. The plates are stacked as tightly as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. Having laid out the entire site with insulation, blow out the existing gaps with mounting foam. Let it dry, cut off the excess with a sharp knife and proceed with laying the second insulating layer. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam in most cases are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps between the elements laid next to each other. Important! Heat-insulating layers are laid with bandaging of seams, i.e. the joints of the top row must be offset relative to the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the plates, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this. |
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| For reinforcement, you can buy a ready-made mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The bars are assembled into a grid with cells of 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections with a knitting wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The grid must be laid indented from the base. To ensure it, special clamps-props are used. In the absence of a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not work to provide a 5-centimeter indent, as when pouring the foundation, because. this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10 mm gap. |
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| Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a share of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that a plastic homogeneous mass of normal density is obtained at the output. The pouring of the finished solution is carried out in the same way as the cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled with a mop or other suitable device, for example, the rule is a long straight slat. The function of the beacons in this case will be taken over by the side walls of the formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, seal the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this takes 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic wrap. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, spill the concrete with a little water and cover it back - thanks to this, the maximum amount of cement will react, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure. |
Useful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with a fiberglass mesh. To fasten it with foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.
In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions from the boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, which is why the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to break the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.
concrete mix prices
concrete mix
Drainage Issues
To ensure the effective removal of atmospheric precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:
- an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
- the resulting halves of the pipe are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
- in the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, integral drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. To accommodate them, trenches are dug. Choose the dimensions of the pit so that at least 5 cm of free space remains on the sides and top of the pipe. At the bottom of the trench, first fill in a 5-centimeter layer of sand and tamp. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and diverted towards the wastewater collection structure. The specific option depends on the individual characteristics of the arrangement of the site.
The described drainage looks like this:
To improve the appearance of the concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner's choice.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself blind area