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Combined method of attic insulation. Various ways to insulate a frame house with your own hands

One of the most wonderful options for owning a home is a frame house. This is an excellent and comfortable home and, moreover, quite economical in construction. However, the matter is not limited to construction. It is necessary to make a good finish to warm the house, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house, one can single out the fact that the walls are insulated directly during construction - this is caused, first of all, by its design.

How to insulate a frame house: the choice of materials

Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in the wall cake. For this, there are a variety of materials. Best suited for this activity:

Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

Insulation is best chosen from environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
It must be resistant to the accumulation of moisture, as well as to fire.
Ease of installation on the frame of the building insulation.
The ratio in the insulation of quality and price.
Fire safety.
Low thermal conductivity.
Strength, as well as non-susceptibility to mechanical damage.

Wall insulation technologies

They may be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

Thermal insulation using board materials (foam, mineral wool, and so on).
Sprayed thermal insulation. This type of insulation is still quite rarely used due to novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as a heater. The application process is similar to working with the use of mounting foam.
Sleep technology. In this case, the insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other backfill materials.
Combinations may also be used. Such a scheme can often be used: mineral wool is laid inside, foam plastic is outside, and then plaster.

The order of external insulation work

When carrying out work, the exact technology of insulation plays a paramount role. Any factors that can provide a positive end result of warming should be taken into account, including the reasons that can lead to a negative result.

Hinged way of warming. In this case, a frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing directly to the surface. It can be pasted and painted. When painting waterproofing, the walls after the primer are subjected to the application of bitumen. In the pasting option, using bituminous mastic, waterproofing roll material, isol, waterproofing, fiberglass is attached. Then, in the cells of the frame, using special glue, or mounting dowels, tapes or plates of rolled insulation are attached.

At the end of the work, the outer side of the frame is trimmed with decorative plates or panels. As a result, it is possible to perform fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

Styrofoam - the cheapest wall insulation

The main advantage of hinged insulation is a ventilation system that eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensate in the insulation layer.
Wet insulation method. This method belongs to cheap, but at the same time, to rather laborious methods. With the help of polymer glue, insulation plates are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then decorative plaster is laid on it. This coating is also called "light" plaster.
There is also a "heavy" plaster. It will be more difficult, but in terms of its reliability and durability it will surpass the “easy” one. It is performed as follows - insulation boards are attached to the wall using dowels, after which, using blocking plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed.
Insulation of the house with fiberboard slabs

Then comes the first layer of plaster. During the day it dries, and deformation seams are made. Next comes the second, as well as the leveling layer, in which there must be temperature-shrinkage seams. The last decorative, where dyes are added, is applied five days later.
Spraying liquid insulation. This method is the most progressive and modern. Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out using a special installation. The peculiarity is that the performance of such insulation is an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to average heaters. After polyurethane foam, almost any coating can be used as decoration, including curtain panels.

The insulation is applied by spraying

Facing method. This option is one of the most expensive, however, and the most decorative. Facing materials can be performed on the wall of the building, as well as on top of the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, however, it is necessary to perform high-quality ventilation.

when performing work, it is important to strictly observe the insulation scheme.
in multilayer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the inner insulation layer does not become damp and, accordingly, does not collapse.

Internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Sometimes there are situations when it is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool, due to the complexity of installation, are rarely used. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Sheathing of the inner surface of the walls is produced in various ways. You can perform insulation with reinforced plaster, then puttying and finally wallpapering or painting.

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

You can also use lining panels, MDF and plastic. The most common option is upholstery with drywall sheets, after which a decorative coating is applied.

Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces of various configurations, it is able to fill all the bumps and defects. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to fire, but the main difficulty in applying it is that a special foam filling machine is needed.

Read about the features in the next article.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation.

Attic insulation can be done either from the inside or outside. Here everyone is free to do as he likes. Both methods have their pros and cons. So, when insulating from the outside, it is more convenient to work, and you can better control the correct arrangement of ventilated gaps. But there is always the possibility that it will rain and the insulation will get wet. Then it will definitely need to be dried, and this takes a lot of time, depending on the density of the insulation and the degree of wetting.

Insulation of the attic from the inside can be done in any weather and it's great, but doing the job is no longer so convenient. If you use any mineral wool, you need to work in a respirator and protect your body. Despite all the assurances of the manufacturers that the body does not itch from their insulation, this is not so. Also, when insulating from the inside, sometimes it is necessary to perform additional steps to arrange ventilated gaps. We'll talk about this below.

Who does not understand what kind of moisture is, look at any metal roof, for example, in the early spring-autumn morning. You will see how much dew is on it. It is formed when the metal that has cooled down overnight below the dew point comes into contact with the air that is already heating up in the morning. And since we have air not only above the roof, but also under it, then there is condensate, respectively, both above and below the roof.

The second type of films #8212; vapor-permeable windproof membranes, although they have high vapor permeability, but it is still not enough to ventilate the insulation to the required extent. Therefore, two ventilation gaps are needed. We will talk more about the various films in a separate article.

Please note, in this scheme, that there is air circulation in the first vent. gap, it is necessary to ensure air access from below through the cornice filing (soffits, ventilation grilles are used, slots are left in the wooden filing or holes are drilled, etc.), and a waterproofing film is cut from above. More precisely, they don’t cut it, but simply spread it not to the very top of the rafters, leave 10-15 centimeters on each slope.

To prevent various debris, leaves, and snow from blowing under the ridge element of the roof, either special ridge elements are used (usually on a soft roof) or special ventilation tapes (on tiles, metal tiles, corrugated board, etc.). These can be the so-called ridge air elements (upper picture), or PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape #8212; bottom picture). All of them are self-adhesive, mounted very simply.

In the second vent. the gap to ensure the necessary air circulation from above is the same (sometimes they also put the so-called #171; roofing valves #187;), and from below #8230; But what to do from below, more on that later. Let's look at the second diagram first.

Scheme No. 2: Scheme with one ventilated gap.

This scheme became possible to use after superdiffusion membranes appeared on the market. Its essence is shown in the figure below:

Due to the very high vapor permeability of superdiffusion membranes, it is not necessary to make a ventilated gap between the insulation and the membrane. Those. this roofing pie differs from the first scheme in that there is no first ventilation gap and a superdiffusion membrane is used as a waterproofing, which, please note, is no longer cut on the ridge.

We have now completely switched to this scheme. Of course, such a membrane is more expensive, but its advantages are undeniable. Firstly, the insulation work itself is simplified, and secondly, with the same cross-sectional height of the rafters, we can lay a layer of insulation between them 5 cm more than in the first scheme.

Five centimeters #8212; this is the minimum height of the first ventilation gap, which is necessary for sufficient ventilation of the insulation in the first scheme. Moreover, in the first scheme, waterproofing films should be attached to the rafters with a sag of about 2 centimeters (see the figure on the right). In the second scheme, there is no requirement for film sagging.

The thickness of the bars of the counter-lattice in both schemes according to SNIP II-26-76 * must be at least 4 cm.

A little about the order of work. When laying the insulation on top, in principle, everything is clear. First, a vapor barrier is fixed on the rafters from below, a heater is laid, a waterproofing is fixed, a counter-lattice is made, a crate, and the roof is directly mounted. When working according to the first scheme (with two ventilation gaps), make the first vent correctly. the gap is not good. You see everything clearly, you see how much insulation you put in, whether it arched up (this happens if you put it too tightly), thereby blocking the first vent. gap.

When laying the insulation from below, when the waterproofing, counter-lattice, sheathing and roofing have already been done, and when you are working according to the first scheme, check the quality of the first vent. clearance is not possible. With a little overzealousness with the insulation, you can simply block it.

To prevent this from happening, before laying the insulation, a mesh is imposed between the rafters, for example, from nylon laces or copper wire. How it looks is shown in the figure. Those. first we chop carnations, then we knit a net between them. When working according to the second scheme (with one ventilation gap), as you understand, this is no longer necessary.

Most of the territory of our country is located in such climatic zones, where the thickness of the insulation laid between the rafters (especially according to the first scheme) is not enough to pass the heat engineering calculation. What should be done in such cases:

1) Use rafters with a section height of 200 mm. We now often make rafters from boards 50x150 mm. But for a warm attic, a section of 50x200 mm is preferable. When calculating, you can simply increase the pitch of the rafters.

2) Purchase a heater with a coefficient of thermal conductivity not higher than 0.04 W / mºС. Now this is not a problem. Just look for heaters that have the designation #171;For pitched roofs#187; on the packaging. In addition, heaters with this designation have high dimensional stability, which prevents them from falling down the slope over time.

It will not be bad if the insulation you choose is hydrophobized. The fibers of such materials are coated with a special water-repellent substance, and in case of emergency leakage (here it is better to spit three times), they get wet much less. Drops of water practically roll down the insulation.

3) Do additional insulation.

To do this, bars of the required thickness (eg 5 cm) are attached perpendicular to the rafters from the inside. An additional layer of insulation is laid between them. Moreover, this layer covers those cold bridges, which are formed between the rafters and the insulation that is not tightly adjacent to them.

As I said at the beginning, we often use extruded polystyrene foam as an additional insulation. It also acts as an additional vapor barrier.

Even such a combined insulation perfectly protects against rain noise when the roof is covered with metal tiles or corrugated board. The strength of the sound is extinguished not only in each layer of insulation (min. wool is better than in EPPS), but also when moving from one medium to another.

As you may have read in previous articles, polyethylene foam #8212 can be used as an additional insulation; plain or foil. When using foil, a gap of 4-5 cm is required between it and the interior decoration of the attic, so as not to lose its reflective ability.

There is a scheme when additional insulation is done on top of the rafters. But it is used much less frequently. Insulation is laid only from above, and the duration of the work increases and, consequently, the likelihood of falling into the rain. We have never done this before, so I will not dwell on it now. If you are interested, information on the Internet is not difficult to find.

At the end of this article, I also wanted to dwell on how to properly make an eaves overhang in order to ensure good ventilation between the waterproofing and the roof while simultaneously draining the condensate that forms on the inside of metal roofs. This topic is quite painful right now. The Internet is filled with schemes for the implementation of cornice overhangs, which often contradict each other and are, to put it mildly, not correct. The saddest thing is that all these schemes have migrated from the instructions of various manufacturers of metal tiles or roofing films, i.e. as if from materials to be trusted.

Here are some examples of these drawings:

In the first picture, the waterproofing hangs from under the counter-lattice and, according to the instructions, it should be placed in the gutter. The karinznaya bar, as I understand it, hangs down so that a ventilation gap remains between it and the film. But what is really happening. Firstly, the film can simply be bent to the top by the wind and it will close the vent. gap. But that's just a possibility.

Look at gutters in winter. Often they are simply overflowing with ice and snow. Vent. the gap is completely clogged and it is no longer possible to talk about any ventilation here. And this is in winter, when ventilation of the under-roof space is especially important.

Now look at the second and third pictures. It's basically the same thing. Here the waterproofing film is displayed on the cornice strip. At the same time, when we put a metal tile on the eaves, it practically blocks the access of air to the ventilation gap. From the required height of 4-5 cm, we have practically nothing left.

In the winter season, the story here is exactly the same as in the previous case. And it is not difficult to guess that on the film, in the place of its entry into the outer board of the crate, especially at small angles of inclination of the slopes, a hollow is formed in which the flowing condensate will accumulate. This is also not good.

Fortunately, more recently, many manufacturers have begun to redo their instructions. The scheme of the cornice overhang in them looks completely different. I first saw such a scheme a few years ago at some European manufacturer of natural tiles (I don’t remember the name now) and immediately realized that it was the only correct one. Now the same scheme has appeared in some instructions of our manufacturers.

Here, for example, is a drawing from a new instruction from Grandline (Fig. 4) and for greater clarity, another drawing, I don’t remember where I got it from (Fig. 5):

Combined attic insulation

Why insulate roof coverings

Covering the attic should not only protect the house from atmospheric precipitation (rain, snow), but also prevent cooling of the premises of the upper floor.

As you know, warm air, being lighter than cold air, always rises, so the air temperature under the ceiling is on average 2C higher than in the middle of the height of the room. With the same heat-insulating ability of the walls and roof, heat loss through the latter will always be greater, due to the large temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces of the attic coating. In addition, the moisture content of warm air is usually higher than that of cold air, so condensation on the ceiling of an upper floor can form at higher temperatures than on the inside of the wall. In this regard, more stringent requirements are imposed on the thermal protection of roofing than on external walls.

Heat losses through the attic are quite large, therefore, correctly performed insulation of its coating can bring a tangible economic effect. When comparing two typical two-story houses with an area of 205 m 2 with attics, insulated in accordance with the old and new requirements, it was found that the current level of thermal protection can reduce heat loss through the coating by more than 3 kW and thereby significantly reduce the heating system capacity and reduce costs. for home heating.

Icicles hanging from the roof represent a significant danger to people. In the process of knocking down icicles, there is a high probability of damage to the roof with all the ensuing consequences.

One of the reasons for the formation of icicles in winter is the insufficient thermal insulation of the roof covering. Snow, heated from below by heat, a poorly insulated coating, begins to thaw, and the water flowing from the roof turns into icicles. Only with well-executed thermal insulation, icicles will not cause trouble in winter.

Requirements for thermal protection of coatings

Rationing of thermal protection of enclosing structures, which include roofs, is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-3-79 * Construction Heat Engineering (issue of 1998), taking into account the average air temperature and the duration of the heating period in the construction area, insulation of the frame attic. In accordance with these standards, the required reduced resistance to heat transfer R o (see the article Is it worth saving on insulation?) of roofing for Moscow and the Moscow region should be at least 4.7 m 2 C / W.

Design features

It should not be forgotten that the moisture content of warm indoor air is higher than cold outdoor air, so the diffusion of water vapor (both through the attic floor and through the outer walls of the building) is directed from the room to the outside. The outer (upper) part of the roofing is a waterproofing layer that does not pass water vapor well and contributes to the formation of condensation moisture from the inner (lower) side of the roof. The consequences will not keep you waiting: despite the well-done waterproofing of the roof, wet spots and mold will appear on the inner surface of the roofing, the thermal insulation qualities of the insulation will deteriorate, water droplets will begin to fall from the ceiling (not due to a roof leak, but as a result of condensation of water vapor) .

Taking into account the negative effect of moisture on the thermal insulation characteristics of materials, the insulation must be protected from moisture vapor contained in the room air with a layer of vapor barrier material, located on the inner (lower) side of the insulation. To remove moisture that for some reason got into the heat-insulating material, a ventilated air gap should be provided between the insulation and the outer (waterproofing) layer of the roofing.

2 Attic insulation with mineral wool - arguments "For" and "Against"

When choosing building materials, many of us prioritize price first and performance second. And the reason for this is not so much the recent crisis as an elementary desire to save money. True, with mineral wool you will not succeed, it does not apply to budget materials. However, just the characteristics will more than justify everything that will be spent on mineral wool, which is refractory (withstands temperatures up to 1000 degrees), moisture resistant, has a considerable margin of hardness and, in addition, is an excellent sound insulator. And all this goes only in addition to the excellent thermal insulation properties.

However, it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is far from a safe material and it must be chosen carefully, giving preference to well-known manufacturers. The fact is that the slightest violation of norms and standards in the manufacture of mineral wool makes it extremely dangerous to health. Companies that have long established themselves in the Russian market guarantee the quality of their products, but dozens of little-known companies involved in the production of mineral wool give such guarantees, for the most part, unfounded.

As a result, you run the risk of acquiring mineral wool, which over time will lose its rigidity, turning into dust from many hard mineral fibers, the smallest and sometimes invisible to the naked eye. Getting into the respiratory tract and in the eyes, these particles can cause many diseases. And the formaldehyde resins used as a binding element, with the wrong production technology, eventually begin to release substances harmful to humans: in fact, formaldehyde and phenol. From here it follows - choose mineral wool with an eye on the manufacturer's reputation, or give preference to less harmful materials, polyurethane foam, for example.

3 Attic insulation with polyurethane foam as an alternative to other materials

If you have free funds and a desire to have high-quality attic thermal insulation with little labor, consider such an option as polyurethane foam. In fact, this insulation is strikingly different from polystyrene and mineral wool, even if only in that it is not laid with slabs or mats, but is applied by spraying. Outwardly, polyurethane foam resembles mounting foam, especially after hardening, but it is completely different from it in its structure, being a type of gas-filled plastics, that is, a relative of polystyrene foam. Having hardened, polyurethane foam has the density of mineral wool, and its thermal insulation properties surpass all other heaters, including penoizol. At the same time, this material is also a vapor barrier with high water resistance, that is, there is no need for additional protective layers when using it.

However, even such a wonderful material has disadvantages. First of all, this, of course, is the price, but, taking into account the characteristics of polyurethane foam, this is only an indirect drawback. The low level of resistance to esters and concentrated acids can also only be partly attributed to the minuses, because it is unlikely that anyone will come up with the idea of pouring sulfuric acid on the roof. But the low heat resistance of polyurethane foam is a really serious flaw in the properties of the material, because even with a low level of flammability, it begins to break down already at 80-90 degrees, and at higher temperatures it can ignite. Therefore, it is worth considering what exactly you would like to insulate the attic, and how to minimize the shortcomings of a particular material.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

We warm the attic from the inside with our own hands

For example, you can use a slab made of mineral wool with an efficiency C = 0.004 W/m.

Such a heater has its own structure:

a layer of vapor barrier is provided on the inside of the insulating material;
The outer side of glass wool, for example, has a special layer for waterproofing.

We insulate the attic: installing a heater

An important factor in attic insulation is the correct installation of a heat-insulating element. It is essential to have a sufficiently effective ventilation space between the bottom surface of the roofing and the top surface of the insulation layer. This will promote ventilation. Also, through this ventilation space, the inevitable flow of warm moist air penetrating through the heat-insulating layer and steam barriers will be removed.

Cover the attic floor with high quality not only to protect your house from the effects of precipitation (snow or rain), but also for maximum insulation. In this way, you will be able to prevent the lowering of the temperature in the rooms of the upper floor. We all know that warm air always rises. That is why the difference in air temperature in the middle of the room and under the ceiling, as a rule, is about 2 degrees.

Even if the thermal insulation capabilities of the roof and walls are the same, there will be a large loss of heat through the roof. The main reason for this difference is that there is a large temperature difference between the inner and outer surfaces of the coating. Also keep in mind that warm air tends to have a higher moisture content than cold air. Therefore, the formation of condensate on the ceiling of the attic floor occurs at higher temperatures compared to the inner surface of the wall. This was the reason for the presentation of more stringent requirements for thermal protection of roofing coatings, compared with products for exterior walls.

Attic rooms are always characterized by the greatest heat losses. Therefore, with the right insulation of its coating, you can get the most tangible economic effect for your budget. If we compare two typical two-story houses with attics with a total area of, for example, 205 sq.m., in which the attics are insulated in accordance with the new and previous requirements, then we can definitely conclude that the installation of a modern level of thermal protection helps to reduce heat losses by at least 3 kW . This helps to reduce the heating capacity of the heating system, which in turn reduces the cost of paying for heat.

Quite often, when a thaw sets in, due to the discovery of attic insulation technology, icicles begin to hang from the roofs of houses, which pose a serious danger to people. If you shoot them down, you can damage the roof, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.

But icicles occur most often due to insufficient insulation of the attic. Snow, which is heated from below by heat passing through an improperly insulated surface, melts. Melt water flows down from the roof and freezes again from the frost, turning into icicles. If you properly perform thermal insulation, you won’t have to worry about such problems as icicles.

Basic requirements for the creation of thermal protection coatings

To control the maintenance of thermal protection standards during the installation of enclosing structures, which are roofs, there is SNiP II-3-79. In "Construction Heat Engineering", for this, the duration of the heating period in the area in which construction is being carried out and the average air temperature are taken into account. If you follow these standards, then for the Moscow region and Moscow, the heat transfer resistance (required reduced) of roofing should be at least 4.7 sq.m. C/W.

What should be the design features of insulation?

Warm indoor air contains more moisture than cold outdoor air. This leads to the fact that the diffusion of water vapor occurs outward from the room (through the walls of the building and through the roof of the attic floor).

Since the roof from the outer (upper) part is a waterproofing layer, it does not pass water vapor through itself well and contributes to the formation of condensation moisture from the inside of the roof. Such properties can have very unpleasant consequences:

the inner surface of the roofing can become moldy and wet spots, despite the correct implementation of the waterproofing of the roof;
the thermal insulation qualities of the insulation used will deteriorate significantly;
condensation of water vapor will cause water to drip from your ceiling.

Since moisture has a negative effect on materials and their thermal insulation characteristics, it is necessary to protect the insulation from the possibility of wetting with water vapor contained in the air of any room. To do this, you can use a layer of vapor barrier element, which must be placed on the inside of the insulation (bottom).

And in order to remove moisture that can get inside the heat-insulating element, it is necessary to provide an air gap between the outer layer of the roof covering and the insulation (for ventilation).

Quite often, attic rooms are converted into attics.

But such re-equipment is carried out with the preservation of the truss system. In order to reduce or minimize the additional load that the load-bearing structures of such a building receive, lighter heaters with a reduced density are most often used. The wind blows through such heat-insulating elements and at the same time carries away heat. In order to maintain the heat-shielding characteristics of the structure, a layer of special material is laid on the surface of the heat-insulating layer that borders on the (ventilated) layer - vapor-permeable and windproof.

If you are going to insulate your attic, you should not forget that heat loss is possible through the roof, as well as through the end wall. Therefore, good insulation will also be required for the pediment of the house. And this insulation must also meet modern requirements. The design of the attic cover is a system of rafters, which are installed with a certain step (600-1000 mm). There is a free space between the rafters, which must be filled with insulation material (heat-insulating element). If you do not know which insulation material is best, choose a mineral wool slab, which is made on the basis of fiberglass or basalt fiber.

For proper insulation of the attic - the laying of heat-insulating plates or mats can be carried out either in one layer or in several. In order to find out what the total thickness of the insulation should be, we will take into account the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation. Its value can be found in the certificate of conformity.

When installing insulation, do not forget to arrange an air ventilated layer between the roofs and the insulation material. Also, do not forget that on the inside, be sure to protect the attic floor with a vapor barrier element and finish it with clapboard or drywall sheets.

We will also take into account the height of the section of the rafters. If it is less than the required thickness of the insulating layer, then wooden blocks must be attached (on nails or screws) to the legs of the rafters. When laying insulation boards, do not forget that an air gap must be left between the roof and thermal insulation. If the height of the section of the rafters is insufficient, then horizontally located antiseptic wooden bars can be fixed on them. Thus, two layers of insulation will be located differently: one - between the rafters, and the second - between the bars.

We will insulate the attic so that it breathes

In order to determine the width of the air gap that should be between the roof and the insulation, we will take into account the profile of the material.

If profiled sheets of galvanized steel, metal tile tiles or other corrugated sheets are used as roofing, we will provide that the thickness of the ventilated air layer is at least 25 mm.
If, however, flat sheets are used as a roof (rolled, soft bituminous tiles, galvanized steel, asbestos-cement sheets), then the required thickness of the air gap should be at least 50 mm.

Also, ventilation holes can be considered holes in the ridge and cornice. In order to protect the heat-insulating element on the side where the ventilated air layer is installed, it will be necessary to use a windproof vapor-permeable membrane.

If we evaluate this situation from the point of view of practice, then it can be argued that Monaperm 450 VM, Monarflex VM 310, Tyvek Soft are considered the most optimal roll products.

We will also tell you that membranes that are of the Tyvek type do not pass liquid water, despite the fact that they perfectly pass water vapor. Such properties of this material prevent the ingress of moisture, which condenses inside the roofing, onto the insulation. Thus, when using Tyvek materials, you can lay the heat-insulating element so that the thickness of the air gap is 25 mm, no matter what profile your roofing is. This is very important if you are going to insulate the attic along those rafters that have already been installed. You do not even have to install additional bars in order to increase the space for the air gap. In this case, the height of the rafter leg, which is, will be sufficient.

If you are building a new house, then the windproof element will have to be laid on top of the rafter legs and attached with wooden bars. And if the attic is arranged in the attic, which already exists, then the windproof vapor-permeable product is fastened directly to those rafters that are available with the help of special rails. Using Tyvek, you can protect the insulation layer from the effects of precipitation (snow, rain). After all, it often happens that moisture gets under a loose coating or into air gaps. Tyvek on the insulation must be laid with an overlap of at least 150-200 mm. Laying is carried out along special dotted lines that are applied to the canvas. The panel is attached to the structure with glue, staples, nails or wooden slats.

In order to protect the attic insulation material from moisture contained in the air by water vapor, a vapor barrier layer is used on the inside: Polycraft foil vapor barrier material manufactured by Monarflex, roofing material, glassine plastic film.

Laying the film must be done so that the overlap of the panels is 100 mm.
The resulting seams must be glued with adhesive tape.
In this case, it is very good to use adhesive tape, because in this way you can ensure the tightness of the seams and reduce the overlap to 100 mm. And it does not depend on the slope of the roof.
The film must be attached to the bars or rafters with wooden slats.

If you use foil material, then it must be laid with foil to the room, so that the gap between the inner lining and the vapor barrier is small.

If everything is installed correctly, then the shiny surface of the foil should reflect the heat radiation that goes outside from the room. This will lead to the fact that the amount of heat loss through the attic roof will decrease.

The room of the insulated attic from the inside must be lined with clapboard, boards, plywood or plasterboard sheets.
The fastening of the facing material must be done using metal profiles or wooden blocks.

What to do if it's cold in the attic?

Most often, the attic does not occupy the entire area of the upper floor. The reason is that the longitudinal walls of the attic are arranged at a distance from the outer wall. Therefore, take care of the insulation of the area that is located between the cornice and the attic wall that is not heated. To do this, you can use a plastic film or Polykraft vapor barrier, which is laid directly on the floor boards down with the foil side. On top of it we lay a layer of insulation, and then a windproof material (vapor-permeable). The insulation must be laid so that there are no "cold bridges" at the points of contact between the ceiling and the wall.

Quite often it happens that even in the presence of insulation, thermal insulation is not provided properly. All this leads to quite expected consequences: an increase in the cost of paying for services, the formation of icicles and other troubles. This means that additional insulation is urgently needed. In order to make high-quality insulation of your attic, you need to put a new insulation on top of the insulation that already exists. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to the installation rules regarding the thermal insulation of attics. If you choose this particular type of insulation, you will not have to reduce the height of the ceiling or the usable area of the room to be insulated. But on the other hand, you will have to disassemble the crate and roof. Also, in order to install a new roofing, it will be necessary to disassemble the supporting frame.

Method for installing an additional layer

Another way to install an additional layer of insulation is to place it under the existing thermal insulation. This can be done by installing the frame on the inner surface of the attic sheathing. The frame is built from beams, and heat-insulating material in slabs is placed between them. Depending on the thickness of the insulation layer, the height of the bars is chosen. From the inside, the insulation is sewn up with a vapor barrier material, attaching it to the frame bars. And to cover this entire structure, plywood, plasterboard sheets or lining are used. Using this method of insulation, you do not have to dismantle the roof, so you can do all the work without waiting for the summer. But this method has its drawbacks - the height of the room and its usable area are reduced.

Quite often, another method is used to insulate the attic floor - a combined one. When choosing this method, you will have to insulate the ceiling with an additional ball of thermal insulation on top of the existing one. And from the inside, the inclined surfaces of the roof are insulated. But when choosing this method, one should not forget that it is necessary to additionally insulate parts of the floor and the vertical walls of the attic.

Some information about the attic

A fashionable element of architecture is the use of attics. They are widely demanded in industrial and civil engineering. Proposal of a French architect.

Attic after three centuries is experiencing a real boom. These projects are used at any stage of construction. Thermal insulation boards are easy to install and hide with stretch ceilings.
Quite often, repairs include the arrangement of attic space for housing. In this case, construction primarily considers insulation issues. Solutions to waterproofing issues are basic for roofing.

Breathable roofing should use ventilation flows. The mansard roof uses holes in the cornice rows for this purpose. Improved ventilation makes it possible to use modern thermal insulation. For the attic, heat saving issues are especially acute. Mineral wool slabs are a classic material for the reconstruction of attics. Innovative materials are also widely used.

Currently, extruded polystyrene foam is used to insulate roofs and attics. The cellular structure of closed pores gives a complete lack of water absorption.

The material is absolutely environmentally friendly, does not contain gas-forming additives. Platen construction supports ease of installation. The high economic effect of heat saving maintains strength. In this case, the roof is easily subject to any repair. Here, the structural elements of the design give a large heat loss. Stretch ceilings are used to solve this problem. They perfectly hide the heat-insulating layer. Efficient steam insulation is installed throughout the circuit. Attics have been successfully used since the 17th century. This is reflected in the architecture and the established practice of construction. The style of European architecture is now the most fashionable trend. Farms of a special design are quite often used as decoration. A sloping or sloping roof often uses supports. The original design of the ceiling uses vertical and horizontal bars.

Ceiling in the attic

Attic stretch ceilings can use panels and slats. Forming an original geometric pattern, they can alternate the color of the finish. Here the bars allow you to hide the seams of the PVC film. A sound-absorbing pad may be applied to the inner layer of the ceiling. Skylights in the design approach will help to combine the play of light and shadow. Thus, the construction site can always tie the interior to the exterior of the attic. The functionality of the finish also has no complaints.

The high tightness of the ceilings does not allow the insulation to be moistened. This makes it possible to use the attic floors for relaxation. Quite often they are used as beauty parlors. PVC film can imitate various textures and colors. Also, construction pays great attention to the design of space in color. An unusual abstract pattern allows you to imitate interesting 3D compositions. The micron layer of Teflon makes it possible to maintain high hygiene. Stretch ceilings are perfectly washed by any means. Forced ventilation is used to prevent the accumulation of condensate. Both construction and repair must necessarily provide for ventilation grilles. In this case

You will ensure maximum service life. Stretch ceilings withstand a large temperature difference from 0 to 50 degrees. The simplest installation allows you to conduct insulation at any time.

In terms of the ratio of heat-insulating capacity and price, expanded polystyrenes (EPS) are the most energy-efficient building materials. Over several decades, many different types of expanded polystyrenes have been developed, which differ significantly from each other in a number of characteristics. How to insulate the attic with foam plastic, in which cases it makes sense to choose this particular material and what are the features of installing an insulating roof sandwich - this review is devoted to these issues.

Styrofoam, extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool: a comparative analysis

Important characteristics of the insulating material for pitched roofs are:

Fire safety. According to this parameter, only mineral wool demonstrates satisfactory results. However, cotton wool does not provide safety in the event of a roof fire. It only increases the time allotted for fire evacuation. Some experts pay attention to the fact that in a house with wooden rafters, a significant increase in the guaranteed evacuation time cannot be obtained.
Heat resistance coefficient. For expanded polystyrene, it is higher than for mineral wool, and for extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) it is even higher. In terms of energy efficiency, XPS boards are second only to polyurethane foam.
Vapor permeability. All types of expanded polystyrenes (including polystyrene) almost do not let steam through. There are pluses and minuses to this.

On the one hand, moisture does not reduce the energy efficiency of these materials. On the other hand, if the spaces between the tree and the PPS are not sealed, condensation may begin to form in these areas, which reduces the life of the truss structures.
Specific gravity. All three considered groups of heaters are commensurate in this indicator and are acceptable for roof insulation.
Price. The most inexpensive of the materials considered is foam. Slightly more expensive is mineral wool, and tops the XPS price list.

Below is a comparative description of the materials in tabular form. Gradation of indicators on a 5-point scale.

	Styrofoam	EPPS	mineral wool
fire safety	2	2	4
Thermal resistance	3	4	2
Vapor permeability	5	5	2
Specific gravity	4	4	4
Price	5	3	4

If you plan to insulate the attic with your own hands without the involvement of specialists and assistants, one more property that is important for the upcoming installation should be taken into account: the strength of the material. In this sense, PPS and XPS boards are much more convenient than mineral wool. Alone, insulating the attic with isover or other roll material can turn into torture. In addition, it will be much more difficult to arrange the ventilation gap and fix the insulation, preventing it from sagging and sliding down locally with the formation of zones of uneven density.

An example of combined insulation: polystyrene foam + mineral wool. The method is effective with a standard rafter pitch of up to 900 mm

In the Scandinavian countries, the most popular attic insulation is extruded polystyrene foam. You can save on this option by replacing the EPS with foam. It is inferior in energy efficiency, but much cheaper and has all the other advantages of expanded polystyrene.

The thickness of the insulating layer and the principle of similarity

The composition of the attic sandwich includes:

roofing material (tiles, metal tiles, bituminous roofing);
waterproofing membrane;
insulation;
vapor barrier membrane;
decorative ceiling.

In each specific case, the calculation of the required thickness of roof insulation is carried out taking into account the climatic zone and the properties of all 5 layers listed above. On the network you can find many options for building heat engineering calculators. Some of them are presented by companies producing insulating materials, but we recommend using options developed by independent authors.

Here, for example, a calculator from ROCKWOOL: http://www.calc.rockwool.ru/

You should be aware that without basic knowledge of building structures and thermal physics, it is almost useless to use programs of this kind. Therefore, it will be necessary, at least, to get acquainted with the law of heat transfer through a flat wall and the role of the main significant parameters - the thermal conductivity coefficient λ, the layer thickness S and the difference between the internal and external temperatures Δt. Otherwise, you may not notice a gross error in the substituted data and be guided further by an erroneous calculated value.

The calculator does not give an unambiguous way of calculating. The data obtained depends not only on materials and structures, but also on the desired level of comfort in the room, as well as the intensity of heating that you can afford while living in the attic. Therefore, statements like “insulation of the attic with foam plastic in central Russia makes sense with a layer thickness of at least 300 mm” or “you need to focus on the height of the section of the rafters” - they do not have much practical significance. However, if, according to the thermal calculation of the mansard roof, you get the required foam thickness of less than 150 mm, this indicates a mistake with a 99% probability, even if the house is located in Krasnodar or Sochi. The same can be said about excessive (more than 350 mm) calculation results.

To simplify the choice of the thickness of the insulator and the power of the heating system allows the principle of physical similarity. This is possible if you have information about a house with an attic in your region, similar in design to the one in which you have to work.

How to calculate the required thickness of insulation in practice

Suppose you know that the sample house is equipped with a 5-layer roofing sandwich with a total thickness of mineral wool of 25 cm as the main insulation. At the same time, the practice of living on this attic floor indicates the sufficiency of insulation. In this case, using the proportionSmv/ λmv =SP/ λp is determined by the equivalent value for the foam:

Sn = (Smv x λp)/ λmv = (25×0.034)/ 0.040 = 21.35 (cm)

For example, the average values of the thermal conductivity coefficients of various grades of the materials under consideration were taken.

Instructions for installing polystyrene foam in the attic

The stages of working with foam plastic are not particularly difficult and you can insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, without involving employees. But there are certain points that are worth paying attention to.

As a rule, work begins with the installation of the lower part of the attic sandwich.

Consider the most common version of the load-bearing structure of the roof: wooden rafters with a section height of 200 mm, located with an axial pitch of 60 cm. All actions for arranging a roofing sandwich can be divided into those that are carried out from above, and those that are performed from inside the room, from below. From the side of the roof, a waterproofing membrane is installed on the upper plane of the rafters, the lathing and roofing are installed. Before starting to insulate the cells between the attic rafters with foam plastic, you should make sure that there is a membrane.

Attention! Steam and waterproofing are sold in rolls, and they must be overlapped during installation. Typically, the overlap is 10 cm. Therefore, when calculating the required amount of insulating membrane, the cost of overlapping layers must be taken into account.

Video: insulation instructions from professionals

Conclusion

The most important thing when insulating the attic with foam plastic is the observance of 3 conditions:

correct choice of insulation thickness;
installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes in accordance with the recommendations;
careful sealing of all joints.

Only if they are observed, you will ensure a healthy indoor climate, save yourself from icing on the roof in winter, moisture condensation on the ceiling and destruction of decorative cladding.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client undertook the independent construction of this building, however, in the process of work, he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think that any novice builder may encounter a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to heat-insulate the facade, floor and attic of a country cottage built using frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the heat-insulating layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, however, in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two options mentioned. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.

outdoor	internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation pie will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, so the interior of the rooms does not suffer during construction work.	With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishes of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform a fine finish from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the moisture condensation point inside the wall, as a result of which the building envelope is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
The wooden wall, which is in direct contact with the warm air in the room, accumulates thermal energy, and when the air temperature drops outside, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can be resorted to only when insulating a very old house: the insulation material installed from the inside will allow you to avoid dismantling the exterior finish, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. I have encountered situations several times when even proper internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter colds. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better it is to perform thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds dangerous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
The material must have fire-fighting properties - they will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also desirable to select a heater that does not emit a large amount of smoke during a fire, making it difficult for people to evacuate.
It is better to choose a heater with the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the beam, usually used to construct the frame).
Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame must fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy a heater that is easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is the price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I will reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal engineering calculations show that for central Russia, an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins used to glue the mats have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
light weight	After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional load on the building envelope, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats of suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without the need for additional battens, fittings and the use of "wet" building processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for work.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the house outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we decided that it would be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

OSB boards for interior and exterior cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
wooden bars 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the decorative finish;
hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of heating devices;
block house, with the help of which external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on what tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for warming a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in this order:

I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden by facing materials, so pollution can adversely affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

I repair damaged parts of the frame. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I was insulating a new house during the construction process. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

I install engineering communications. If a hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before the walls are sewn with decorative material. There are a few features I would like to mention:

All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
When installing water pipes inside the wall, there should be no detachable connections, which over time can loosen and leak.

I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and fungus on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the inner cladding, I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

I sheathe the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
- Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to pre-made drawings.
- Parts must be made in such sizes that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
- Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
- The cladding seams should go in a checkerboard pattern with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

Installing vapor barrier material. As I said, penofol will play its role - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
- The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with the reflective layer outward, and then fixed to the panels using a construction stapler or wide-head nails.
- Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
- To seal the seams inside the overlap, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

I install counters. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finish lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how you will fix the decorative material (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

I fix the lining on the counter rails. I already once described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I won’t dwell on it in detail. I can only say that it is better to install lamellas on kleimers, thanks to which the change in the size of the eurolining during operation is compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra boards are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between the supports of 60 cm. This is just the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically not necessary. Thanks to this, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

Installing the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the plates exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame bars, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will firmly take its place. Let me draw your attention to a few things:

It is impossible to fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, a self-tapping screw can damage the foam layer, which is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
Trimming the plates, if necessary, is done with a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
After installation of all plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane adhesive from a cylinder. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

Installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run up. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Don't forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off with a sharp one.

I install insulation in structural elements of complex shape. Be sure to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the process of thermal insulation is not yet over. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installation of hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is the following:

A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use carnations with wide hats:
- Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
- Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
- Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, a completely sealed canvas should be obtained, which protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer lining and drafts blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
I stuff the slats of the counter-lattice on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

I fix OSB-plates on the rails. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - Finishing

The technology of decorative finishing of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, this will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, you can not use OSB boards at all, but mount the lamellas on a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat loss occurs through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly describe how to thermally insulate this surface:

Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a large load, therefore it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about wall insulation technology.
Screw the battens. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
Decorate the surface of the ceiling with clapboard. It is mounted on clamps or screws.
Install insulation from the attic. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is the insulation of the floor with your own hands. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living quarters, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
a tongue-and-groove board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
if it is not possible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read a separate material on thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

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