Button from a screwdriver for a children's car. What can be done from a screwdriver with your own hands
If you want to pamper your child, a vehicle will be the best toy for him, especially if you have a boy, however, girls are also not weakly interested in this. The best option in this case is to make an electric kart. In this tutorial, I will tell you how to make such a thing in the easiest way.
As a basis, we will use plywood - this is a material accessible to many and easy to work with. And we will set the car in motion. As for the wheels, wheels for garden carts and so on are quite suitable for these purposes. So, let's start manufacturing.
Materials and tools used
List of materials:
- plywood;
- 4 wheels;
- bearings;
- plexiglass;
- two sprockets from a bicycle and a chain;
- carriage from a bicycle wheel;
- ;
- a cable from a bicycle;
- screws with nuts and washers;
- self-tapping screws;
- dye;
- metal tubes (for steering rods);
- bolts, screws, mounting angles and other little things.
List of tools:
- ;
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- wrenches and screwdrivers;
- drawing accessories;
- wood saw;
- clerical knife and more.
Homemade manufacturing process:
Step one. We make the base and all the necessary details
The base is made of plywood. First, the author made a cardboard layout to make sure how everything would work. Then we transfer the drawing to plywood and cut it out with a jigsaw.
You will also need to cut out the parts that will hold the wheels. The back part is cut out in one piece, but the two front parts must be separate and rotate each on its own axis. Thus, we will do the steering. Fasten these parts to the base using screws and nuts.
Step two. Steering installation
For the manufacture of steering, you will need three pipes, two of a small diameter will be used as tie rods. Under the “shaft” of the steering wheel, we cut out a plywood bracket; for the author, it looks like a trapezoid. We drill a hole in the part at an angle with a bat and then fasten it to the base with self-tapping screws.
Next, we install a bracket on the steering shaft, to which we connect the steering rods. It is also made from plywood. The steering wheel is also cut out of plywood. What should happen in the end, look at the photo.
Step three. Let's prepare the wheels
Bearings must be installed in the wheels, since plastic bushings will not last long. The author decided to get the bearings from the skateboard wheels. To make seats, the author drove a nail into a stick, cut it to the desired length and bored out the seat. For accurate installation of the bearing in its place, we use a bolt with a nut and washers. Bearings must be installed in all 4 wheels, do not forget to lubricate them.
Step four. Fixing the steering wheel
First, install a plywood bracket on the steering shaft. We fasten it to the shaft with self-tapping screws or screws that are twisted perpendicular to the shaft. Next, we already install the steering wheel on this bracket and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the bracket.
Step five. Installing the sprocket on the wheel
We take an asterisk from a bicycle and drill holes for attaching it with bolts to the wheel. In the wheel disk, we also drill holes in the appropriate places. Well, now just screw the sprocket to the wheel.
Step six. Drive sprocket installation
The drive sprocket is attached to the axle from the bicycle wheel. For fastening, you will need to make a special adapter, it can be made of textolite, plastic or other similar material.
Heat the fixing nut with a torch, and then press it into the plastic sheet, as a result, it will melt its seat. Draw a circle around the center and cut it out. Next, we clamp the part into the drill chuck and use files or a drill to form a circle.
At the end, we drill holes in the manufactured part and fasten the sprocket with screws and nuts.
Step seven. Final assembly steps
Now you can put the drive wheel in its place, put on the chain, and also install the axle with the drive sprocket. Connect the screwdriver to the axis and try to turn it on. We fasten the screwdriver using a special bracket, which is also made of plywood.
To control the kart, make a pedal out of plywood. To connect it to the Shurik, you will need a bicycle cable. We attach it to the screwdriver trigger with a loop, which will be tightened when the pedal is pressed.
Now it remains a matter of creativity, we take a brush and paint the kart in any color to your taste. When the paint dries, you can present this cool surprise to the child.
If you are loving parents, then you will definitely be interested. Well, if you haven’t “bought” a child for yourself yet, then the experience and recommendations on how to make an electric car for your child, having put your hands to it yourself, obviously won’t hurt.
VIDEO: Clear and easy instructions on how to make a children's electric car with traction from a screwdriver
Every child needs to develop and enjoy life from its first days. So a son appeared in our family, the joy of mom and dad. From a young age, the boy turned out to be a lover of different types of cars, which was very similar to his father.
While he was small, a stroller suited him, then a sled in the winter, a children's bicycle. And as soon as we went for a walk in the park, the son saw children's cars - electric cars, Mercedes, Range Rover, BMW. Of course, the child wanted to ride and squealed with delight. It was our mistake ... The son whined all the way home that he wanted the same typewriter. After a lot of market research and discussions about the cost of such charms, the family council decided that dad would remember his design experience (he did it in childhood) and together with his son he would make such a car himself. The fun begins...
The father consulted with his friend, a model modeling teacher from the automotive engineering circle. They re-read a lot of information, looked at the diagrams of a children's electric car on the Internet, and used the knowledge of the teacher himself. And so a drawing of the car was drawn up, a design was invented and a list of what to buy and find was made. It turned out that it is not an easy task to build a children's electric car with your own hands, because the car must drive for a long time, have perfect maneuverability, be small in size in order to take up little space in the apartment.
It was interesting for my son and dad to choose parts, frames, wheels, and feel and evaluate all this. 
Finally, the father spent more time with the child. They sat until late in the evening and chose schemes for children's electric cars in order to find their own. When it was already time to sleep, they looked for some missing screws, cogs, bearings. In general, the work was in full swing, and this is how it was approximately ...
The frame, which serves as the basis for everything, was found in the garage, sawed off, cut off and welded, and once I wanted to make a rack out of this in order to put things in order on the balcony. The wheels were removed from my grandmother's two handcarts, she could not refuse her grandson. The gas pedal, cables, ribbons, springs were found in the same place - in the deposits of the garage.
I just had to buy more: bearings, screws, steering gear, radio components, sensors, brakes.
The steering wheel was chosen in the online store. Emphasis was placed on the fact that it was small and athletic. For the safety of the child, high-quality brakes were chosen, because they are the main ones in such a mechanism. 
So, we had a frame ready, wheels were screwed onto it, we even wanted to ride on this one. The bottom was cut out of a piece of plywood to fit the shape of the car, and not some kind of trailer. Welded the swivel mechanism, put the steering column. Pulleys were fixed on the rear wheels, cables were pulled and hooked to the motor. Now the device has become more like a typewriter.
But all this did not work without an electric motor and a control panel. It is not an easy task to find a good and powerful battery and charger for it. But the men coped with this task perfectly well. Why do I say so? Because the car “flies” for two hours stably without an additional charge. They chose for a long time and scrupulously, re-reading and recalculating all the pros and cons of power, charge time.
The engine is located behind the seat, securely attached with clamps and bolts. The seat was taken from the swing, which had already become too small for the child. It is yellow, as a result of which they decided to paint the car green to match. Next, behind the motor, they put the battery in special niches, by analogy with a car. All the wiring was neatly tied with clamps so that nothing would fall out and fall apart or disconnect when driving.
At the final stage, it remains to paint the car, fasten the horn and mirror, and, of course, test it. The men sanded the plywood, coated it with a primer and painted it in a beautiful green color. They put foot restraints so that they do not roll down when cornering. They also came up with the idea of putting a bumper protection on the front of the car, since a child can, having accelerated, drive into the bushes and into the fence. Special emphasis should be placed on safety, because the baby will rush about without feeling fear.
And then came the day of testing. Dad fully charged the battery the day before. We left for 
playground for beginners. My son couldn't wait to check in. The race ended on the second lap, as the wheels were flimsy for the weight of our little one. I had to go straight to the car market and choose good wheels for children's cars. It turned out not cheap, but dad will do everything for his son.
We arrived at the garage, redid the mounts for new wheels, fixed them and tried to control the remote control. Hooray! The car drove off. The day flew by, we decided to postpone the tests with my son until the morning. The child came home upset, but was looking forward to tomorrow. The tests were moved to the territory of the dacha, where there is both fresh air and full off-road.
As soon as we got out of the car, we immediately got an electric car. The son sat down and with a satisfied face, like a racer, began to drive along the road. There was so much happiness and enthusiasm that everything works, and no one has such a machine. Parents are happy, and grandparents were surprised at such handmade.
After 20 minutes of racing, the child was a little tired, and dad decided to continue testing. 
on one's own. He seemed to be as happy as a child. Since my husband is an experienced driver, we immediately identified the flaws. You need to improve the brakes to stop faster. But for starters, this equipment was approved. The main thing is to have a desire and passion for the process! Go ahead and you, create a scheme for a children's electric car and go ahead.
Everyone is familiar with a screwdriver. This is a hand-held power tool designed for twisting and unwinding a variety of fasteners. This is the main direction of its application, but not the only one. With the help of a screwdriver, you can create a great many useful and necessary things.
Screwdriver as a generator
A screwdriver can be used as a generator. It is very easy to do this. It is necessary to remove the battery, connect the wires to the terminals using alligator clips and connect them to the consumer. Be sure to first check the polarity with a multimeter. You need to insert and clamp the hex wrench into the cartridge to assemble the furniture. By rotating the spindle, a current will be generated that will go to the consumer. True, it is worth noting that the voltage generated by this electric machine is only enough to charge a mobile phone or operate a small LED lamp.
Using wind energy with a screwdriver
According to this principle, wind turbines are built from a screwdriver, but the generated current is so small that the game is not worth the candle. Its installation is more effective in areas of high wind load, although the result does not justify itself there.
Carpentry equipment
A few more interesting suggestions on how to make equipment for home carpentry based on a conventional screwdriver.
Wood lathe
When making wood products, it is difficult to do without a lathe. It can be built with your own hands. A flat wooden workbench is ideal for the bed. A screwdriver can be used as a headstock and rotation drive. In a wooden bed made of a bar in the shape of a screwdriver, you need to lay the tool and fix it with a clamp. The bar can be fixed with a clamp, and with constant use of the machine, fastened with self-tapping screws. A tooth mandrel must be inserted into the chuck. The tailstock is made of two bars with an adjusting screw, which is sharpened to a cone. It is installed opposite the fixed screwdriver so that the axis of the tool coincides with the axis of the tailstock adjusting screw. The design of the back stop is fixed with a clamp. If you plan to process large parts, then the fastening should be more reliable. A handguard can also be made from a bar by attaching it to a workbench with a clamp. A primitive lathe for the home workshop is ready.
Table drilling machine
Another equally important piece of equipment is the drill. It can also be made from a screwdriver. To do this, you will need a used screwdriver. It is necessary to take an engine with a gearbox and a cartridge from it. Now you need to make two clamps from textolite, which will perform the function of fixing the drilling head of the machine. To achieve maximum alignment of all holes on the clamps, it is better to process them together, in one set. Then it will be possible to avoid distortions.
Sleeves with internal thread are used as limiting posts. They must be the same size, corresponding to the distance between the clamps. After that, another clamp is made from textolite and two bosses from caprolon. They are drilled off-center, getting two eccentric bushings. The clamp is installed on the bar and the backlash is selected with the help of eccentrics. After that, a wooden lever is installed on a spring so that the drilling head returns to its original position. To supply power, you must use a transformer with a power of more than 150 watts and an output voltage like that of the screwdriver used. After that, you need to put a diode bridge and a capacitor, install the drilling head on the bed.
Manual milling cutter from a screwdriver: step by step instructions
It can be converted into a manual router. For this, you do not need to purchase expensive materials. Everything you need can be found in the workshop or garage almost under your feet. To equip a manual milling cutter from a screwdriver, you will need pieces of thick plywood or chipboard, a tool clamp, fasteners in the form of bolts and self-tapping screws, a plumbing tool and a drill bit for wood. In the latter case, you can use a drill bit.
Assembling a homemade router is quite easy. For this you need: 
- From pieces of the selected material, cut out the base, a vertical stand, on which a screwdriver will be fixed with a clamp, an emphasis and a scarf to stiffen the structure. The dimensions of the parts are chosen arbitrarily, in relation to the dimensions of the power tool.
- Drill a Ø 40 mm hole in the base using a drill bit for free access of the cutting tool to the processing area.
- Make a clamp according to the diameter of the hand tool.
- On a vertical stand, use a clamp to fix the screwdriver so that its cartridge is a few millimeters from the base.
- Install stiffener.
- Fix the screwdriver on a vertical stand with an emphasis.
- Install the cutter in the tool chuck.
Screwdriver cutter is ready for use. Such a machine cannot become a full-fledged replacement for a manual router due to its low power and low spindle speed, but it will solve the issue of milling small parts in a home workshop.
Circular Saw
In addition, for your carpentry workshop, you can make a circular from a screwdriver. To do this, you need to make a work surface using a chipboard sheet or thick plywood. In the countertop, you need to make a cut for the exit of the circular saw. The screwdriver must be securely fastened to the underside of the work surface using metal or wooden clamps. In the same way, it is necessary to mount the shaft. It is important that the saw blade extends no more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.
Modernization of children's vehicles
And of course, all the best goes to the children. On the basis of a screwdriver, you can upgrade many children's vehicles. For example, convert a children's pedal car into an electric car.
electric car
To make an electric car you will need:
- Frame from a steel profile pipe. It can be made by hand.
- Wheels can be used from a garden trolley with rubber running.
- The body can be taken from an old pedal car or come up with some creative solution. For example, to solder from plastic pipes.
- As an electric drive, it is necessary to use two motors from screwdrivers and a gearbox from the same power tool. Separate housings are made for them, in which the output shaft is mounted on 201 bearings.
- Battery. You can use a regular car 6ST60.
After all the components are prepared, it remains to assemble the electric car. This process is simple and within the power of every man who has even a superficial idea of \u200b\u200bplumbing.
Electric scooter and electric bike
Another use of a screwdriver in the creation of vehicles can be called an electric scooter or an electric bicycle. The principle of such modernization is based on the installation of a chain transmission between the wheel sprocket and the electric motor sprocket with a screwdriver gearbox. This device is powered by the battery of the hand tool. Such a solution does not require large expenditures. As a result of the improvement, a vehicle is obtained with a speed of 5 to 15 km/h.
Electric snowmobile
Using a screwdriver, you can make not only vehicles on wheels, but also a real snowmobile. For this you need to use an electric car, having carried out a number of appropriate upgrades. It is necessary to improve the frame of the electric vehicle to install the drive wheel on it. Instead of driven wheels, you need to install skis, replace the plastic steering wheel of the car with a metal bicycle steering wheel. The drive of the drive wheel is carried out through a chain transmission from a screwdriver.
The assembly of such a miracle technique will not take much time, and most importantly, money. All costs will pay off with the joy of the child, for whom the electric vehicle will be a real gift.
Cool ideas and tricks for using a screwdriver in the household
In addition to the mechanisms listed above, a screwdriver can also be used to implement other ideas in the household. This hand-held power tool will help you automate the opening of the entrance gate, make a winch for a car or scissors for cutting metal. If you attach a nozzle for cutting tin to it, you can turn an ordinary rubber boat into a motor boat, modernize the process of drilling holes in ice fishing. In addition, everyone knows that a screwdriver is used as a drive to a mixer, meat grinder or juicer.
After reading the article, the reader has gained knowledge about the non-traditional use of a screwdriver. Now he can use this hand tool to create carpentry equipment, upgrade children's vehicles, and other useful household items.
I will not tell you how to make a children's electric car from scratch. Since this is quite laborious, and it is unlikely that the result will turn out as beautiful as we would like.
On this I will tell how to make a children's electric car with your own hands from an ordinary children's typewriter. The main thing is to have: wheels, a steering wheel and an attractive body. And in the presence of all parts and materials, the electric car is made in 1 day.
It all started with the fact that my son, godfather, for the first year of his birth, gave a typewriter (wheelchair-tolokar). The principle of riding such a machine was that the child sitting on it had to ride pushing off the floor with his feet. But the problem was that my one-year-old son could climb onto the typewriter, but it was difficult for him to push off the floor with his feet, he was still too small.
In this regard, it was decided to modernize the vehicle and install an electric drive. Under the "hood" of the car, as it turned out, there is a lot of free space for placing a battery and an electric drive.
After seriously thinking about this issue, I was interested in what kind of engine to use for a children's electric car.
Going into my garage, I caught my eye motor reducer from the car windshield wiper(two speed). After digging around on the Internet, I found its characteristics:
Supply voltage - 12V
Power on the gearbox shaft - 10W
The speed of rotation on the gearbox shaft at a lower speed 30–40 rpm
The speed of rotation on the gearbox shaft at high speed 55-70 rpm
Current consumption - up to 4A
I connected the gearmotor to the battery and tried to stop the rotation of the shaft with my hand, but it wasn’t there. The shaft was spinning without a hint of the resulting load. This suited me perfectly, and I began to consider options for placing the gear motor under the car.
The most successful location for the gear motor was in the rear axle of the car, while the rear wheel shaft successfully passed through one mounting hole of the gear housing (circled in red in the photo). In this case, the battery could be easily placed under the seat. Everything was fine, but for this placement option it was necessary to make two gears.
But I had no desire to stretch the pleasure for several weeks. Therefore, I decided to use another, simpler and faster way - to place the gearmotor under the seat (where the battery should have been) and connect it to the rear axle with a belt drive.
I went to the market in search of the smallest belt. The smallest that I was offered was a belt z-500. Based on the size of the belt and the free space under the car, I started making pulleys.
For the manufacture of pulleys, I used PVC plastic 5 mm thick. First, I outlined a circle with a compass (two large diameters and one smaller one), and then proceeded to cutting.
This PVC plastic, not of high density, is very easy to cut with a clerical knife, but you can also use a jigsaw. Do not despair if your circles are not quite even, in the future we will process them on sandpaper.
To do this, drill a hole in the center, insert the bolt and clamp it with a nut. We insert it into a drill and at high speeds we proceed to processing the edges on sandpaper or a file. Thus, we get a perfect circle. Do not forget to grind the chamfers at an angle on large circles.
We drill a central hole for the diameter of the wheel hub, and string the pulley onto the wheel. In order for the pulley to sit dead in the wheel, it is enough to screw the pulley through and through the wheel with two screws.
The pulley for the gearmotor had to be made of a smaller diameter so that it did not cover the mounting holes of the gearbox. And due to the fact that the pulleys had to be made of different diameters, the electric car lost a little in speed (instead of 1.5 km/h it got 1 km/h).
After all that was done, I started assembling the electric car. Having installed the belt between the wheel and the gearmotor, I saw that there was a gap of 2 cm from the base of the engine to the steering column, and it was quite possible to make the pulley on the wheel 1 cm smaller in diameter. But I didn't want to change anything.
For reliable fixation, the engine cover was secured with a clamp and pulled off with bolts. And through the casing of the gearbox, I installed a rod from the electrode d-4mm through and through. (in the future I will change it to an M6 threaded stud, so the gearmotor will be securely fixed).
To connect the electrical part, I used car terminals and crimping pliers (you can use a soldering iron and pliers). As insulation, he put on thermotubes on the terminals. I used wires with a cross section of 0.75.
The electrical diagram of the two-speed windshield wiper gearmotor
BUT- the numbering order of the terminals in the windshield wiper block;
1
- windshield wiper motor reducer;
2
- reusable thermal bimetallic fuse to protect the motor reducer from overloads;
a- brush of the second speed;
b- brush of the first speed;
in- spring plate limit switch;
d, d- contacts of the limit switch;
To control the movement of the children's electric car, I decided to put the control button on the steering wheel so that the child consciously understands that when this button is pressed, the electric car starts to move (for older children, you can make a pedal).
Therefore, I had to modify the steering column, namely, to drill holes in the ribs for pulling wires.
The button was used by KM1-1 (Soviet times), its advantage is that it is tiny, but it can switch currents up to 4 A. Not very elegant, but what can you do, I didn’t have another button available.
I drilled a hole in the steering wheel to mount it.
On the reverse side of the steering wheel, I glued the wires with a thermal gun and filled the button itself with silicone.
It remains only to install the battery. For these purposes, it is necessary to use gel batteries (from flashlights, uninterruptible power supplies, etc.). Do not forget to additionally bring out the wires for connecting the charger.
I had a battery from a 12V 7.2A uninterruptible power supply (theoretically, its capacity should be enough for 1-1.5 hours). It was too big to be placed under an electric car, so we had to take it outside.
But as it turned out, it fits back to back in the back. And without hesitation, I tied it with electrical tape. The battery was installed upside down so that the child was less likely to pull out the wires.
Under the "hood" of the children's electric car, do not forget to tie up all the wires with plastic clamps so that nothing breaks during the ride.
Children's electric car made by hand is ready for operation. Having put his one-year-old son on an electric car, he noticed that it was very difficult for him to press the button (it is very hard), as a result, he had to help him and press the button himself.
Specifications of a homemade electric car for children:
- the weight of the electric vehicle is 5.7 kg.
- speed - 1 km / h (quite sufficient for children under 2-3 years old to drive around the house)
- load capacity 20 kg. (at 30 kg. the belt began to slip).
I don't think it's too bad for a toddler. And when my son grows up, then I will make an electric car bigger and faster for him :) but with the use of two gear motors.
Additionally, you can reverse the electric car, for this you need to install a toggle switch that will change the polarity of the connection on the engine.
A neat children's electric car was made by Arsen Ghazaryan from Yerevan (Armenia) for his son Artur. Arsen has an education in cybernetics. Did the specialty determine this hobby? According to my observation, a significant part of people with electronic professions are engaged in electric vehicles. At the first acquaintance with an electric car, a careful approach to the development and manufacture of the project, the study of all nodes is revealed.
The basis of the drive is the radiator fan electric motor of a Mercedes car with a power of 700 watts and a rotation speed of 6500 rpm. To reduce the rotation speed, a belt reducer with a factor of 3.5 is used.
The electric car has the form of a sports car, the electric motor is driven by two batteries of 40 a / h. Electric motor control from a home-made electronic device - a controller.
The body is homemade. Made from fiberglass. A full-size model of an electric car was made from foam plastic and fiberglass was glued onto it with epoxy resin.
The PWM circuit of the motor control controller is shown below.
The PWM controller is designed on the TL494 chip according to the standard switching circuit. On the comparator K554CA3, a protection circuit against overloads and failure of the power output transistor is built. In an emergency, the motor is switched off by means of a relay. The signal for the protection device is taken from the shunt 75 ШСМ (75 mV for a current of 100A). The protection current is set by resistor R5. In case of short-term current overloads, the load current is limited using the transistor T2 by blocking the control pulses to the power transistor that controls the electric motor. With a prolonged overload, the capacitor C6 is charged and the load disconnect relay is activated. This mode can occur with a short circuit in the load or failure of the control transistor T3. Turning off a running motor with a relay is not the best way, but in this case it is justified. Since emergency modes will not happen so often, the relay resource will last for a long time. There are two errors in the diagram. Instead of the name "Stop", the button has the purpose "Reset Trigger". The power supply of the K554CA3 chip is bipolar from two batteries.
The reducer of our own design is used. The belt drive provides some reduction in rotation speed (coefficient 3.5). Lever suspension of own design. The springs are also wound by hand.
Visible front suspension. For ball joints used steering pins from Lexus. Self-made disc brakes - caliper, on all four wheels.
It can be seen from the figure that gear shifting is carried out by moving the backstage and engaging it with the help of the corresponding balls for the gears, which brings the input shaft and the gearbox differential into engagement. The link moves inside the input shaft of the gearbox.
No less interesting is the clutch - also of our own design. The figure shows how it works.
In the available photos, the instrument panel is missing. This is how it looks.
Do-it-yourself children's electric car Jeep
A rare kid does not dream of driving a typewriter, but of having his own happiness in general. These two pencil kids thanks to their dad they have such a dream and not a simple one, but an electric one. There is no need to pedal, there is no engine noise and no smoke either. Yes, and mom is happy, less washing.
The author and designer of the car Valentin Gorchakov, 32 years old, lives in Gorlovka (Ukraine, Donetsk region). Once finished motor transport college, works as a car mechanic. In the photo taken on May 11, 2009, Slavik (driver) has a birthday - 4 years old. Igor ( passenger) - 2.5.
It all started with the fact that my friend attached a second-hand screwdriver with a chain drive to one wheel and a motorcycle battery to the pedal car donated to his son. Later, when he himself had an heir, he began developing the project, taking into account the identified shortcomings (damage to the body during collisions, fragility sockets of the output shaft of the screwdriver under the action of side load, small power reserve, rapid wear of plastic wheels, etc.)
Specifications :
- - Body - from the pedal car.
- - electric motor for electric car - two engines from screwdrivers, a gearbox from the same place, but with home-made steel
- housings in which the output shafts are mounted on 201 bearings
- - landing in electric car lateral by car type
- - Battery - car 6ST60
- - Plastic wheels - from trolleys 3.00 - 4 (260x85)
- - Frame - steel pipe d-16mm
- - Suspension - dependent, spring
- - Brake - electric, two-level (by closing the motors through a resistor or short circuit)
- - Additional equipment - headlights, rear lights, horn, mirrors
- - Power reserve (km) - not yet known (more than 30)
- - Maximum speed (km / h) - 8
- - Number of seats (det.) - 1 + 1
- - Weight without accumulators (kg) - 18
- - Dimensions LxWxH (mm) - 880x560x570
- - Base (mm) - 540
- - Track (mm) - 455
- - Clearance (mm) - 100
electrical equipment electric car .
First, I put a button from a screwdriver (with an enlarged radiator), and the brake simply short-circuited the engines. Everything was controlled by one double-sided pedal plus a reverse toggle switch. In operation, it turned out that the brake is too sharp (on the descents braking happened in jerks, blocking the wheels). While evaluating the options, a soft start was covered. It became difficult to control the car (when starting off, she strove to stand on the "goat", and driving at low speed was jerky). As a result, using the contacts of the screws.buttons and doubling the contacts of the brake, I made two-stage"gas" and brake, picking up additional resistance. There were doubts about losses, but it turned out that the first speed was used for a short time, and with such a battery it is not relevant.
Jeep body.
The body is plastic, ready. Industrial production (from a donor). It is hinged on a tubular frame in front on a steel tubular axle (previously, the donor had pedals here). The rear part, with special protrusions that hold the body from lateral displacements, rests on an accumulator suspended between two frame crossbars on belts, and is secured from transverse displacements by protrusions in the plywood flooring, and from longitudinal ones by cut rubber bushings. Thus, the body can be folded back to service the battery, and in the "working" position it is fixed with two rubber bands with hooks.
The frame is welded from cut "hospital-canteen" chairs and a baby stroller (front "kenguryatnik" and rear suspension arms), using ready-made roundings. Spring guides and brackets for fastening the suspension arms and the front of the body are welded to it. By the way, the arcs on the bumpers serve not only to protect the body, but also to make it easier to carry the car. The front axle is welded from tubes. It also has arm brackets and spring guides.
Transmission device.
The drive motors are two electric motors from a screwdriver. Steel cases are made, output shafts are brought out through two bearings N 201. The screwdriver gearbox is saved.
Rotation is transmitted by a chain drive. A sprocket crown is installed on the wheel drum. Made homemade. A bicycle sprocket was proposed, but the turner decided in his own way and made a homemade sprocket. I want to warn you that making an asterisk in a turning shop (if it is not a factory turning shop) is not an easy task, although turning and milling machines are used. Drums were originally made for mechanical brakes, but later they had to be abandoned as unnecessary. The drums are welded from rings mined for the occasion and 2mm sheet (high seam on the outside). In the wheels, instead of regular (inner d20mm), 200 and 201 (inner d10 and 12mm) bearings are used, installed in adapter housings. The rear inner cases have grooves for installing drums. The two halves of the rear cases are connected by a coupler from a d1 / 2 "tube, on which a thread is cut and a "hat" is made from a nut by welding and a "grinder" with a cut for a screwdriver. Accordingly, a thread is cut in the outer case , and in the inner recess is machined under the “hat.” It could have been done in an easier way, but I tried to minimize turning work.
Electric brakes applied. Fairly effective. There is no parking brake. Do not need. This is a children's electric car. In any case, it should be used under the supervision of parents.
Chassis device.
In the design of the front axle, the steering knuckle assembly is of technical interest.
The design is clearly visible in the photo. On the pipes we see rubber bushings, these are wheel rotation limiters. The steering tips rest on them. Limiters from swinging of the body - rope, prevent the springs from falling out when moving the car and with significant swings of the body on uneven roads. There are no reactive thrusts. The front axle is fixed on swing arms. The weight of the jeep is not great, so the strength of the levers is enough not to put a transverse jet thrust.
The role of the guide (editor's note: rocking levers) of the apparatus is performed by two strips of stainless steel s-1.5mm, rigidly fixed to the frame and beam. angle of inclination of the kingpin. To combat this, I increased the rigidity of the front part of the strip (~ 2/3), turning it into a corner, smoothly fading away.
The rear swingarm is welded from three tubes, connecting brackets, guides for springs and wheel axles and suspended on two steel-fluoroplastic hinges.
The steering unit is elementary - lever. It is clearly visible in the photo, no explanation is required. Steering tips are used ready-made, purchased for the occasion. This is a ball joint. Similar to the one on the shock absorbers of the rear doors of cars. The pivot bearings are bronze bushings with thrust flanges. The steering knuckles are welded from three parts cut from a 2 mm sheet. Steering levers are made as a whole with them. A turned hollow axle is welded to the middle part, bent in the form of a channel. The king pin is machined by hand from a "furniture" bolt with a locking tooth, under which a recess is made in the fist. As a working surface, a threadless part d-7mm is used, below which an M6 thread is cut. Tie rods from tube d-8mm. Hinges from gas lifts for furniture fronts opening up.
How we made an electric car
As soon as electric cars with batteries for children appeared on the streets of the city, naturally my son, and he was then 3.5 years old, wanted to ride. But with my salary, and at a price of 30 rubles for 5 minutes. don't ride much. Moreover, what are these 5 minutes for a child? just whet your appetite. He would have to ride for two hours. As a result, it was decided to make an electric car on a battery. Yes, and the son also showed interest in amateur performances. After all, to make a working electric car YOURSELF (albeit with the help of dad), it’s cool even at 3.5 years old!
The battery is available. It was decided to take the engine from the stove 41 Muscovite, the benefit of the summer in the yard.
In order not to do a bad job, at first this engine was tested for "hard armament". A sheet of plywood was taken, the wheels were screwed on and the engine was connected. Your obedient servant was chosen as a "load". And this board went!!!.ALL. Let's start building a car!
1.
Garbage cart wheels.
2.
"Finnish" plywood 9 ply.
3.
The engine is from the M2141 stove - with a power of 90 watts.
4.
bearings, a bunch of rusty bolts, a button for "gassing". Toggle switch 6 pin for switching the engine mode "back-forward-neutral"
Rear suspension:
a piece of a water pipe, there are two bearings on it (201st or 203rd, I don’t remember exactly) also two pulleys rigidly fixed with bolts and two wheels, one of which is in free rotation, the other is rigidly wedged on the axis (the bearing was wedged with sand and nails) .... all this is attached to the "body" through the "clamps" of the plates by the bearings ... i.e. the entire bridge rests only on bearings. Belts on the rear axle - rubber seals from the sewerage system of the house - diameter 10 cm. Cost 4 rubles apiece .....
Front suspension:
an ordinary trapezoid, which is displaced with the help of a cable wrapped around the "steering column" and fixed from slipping with large washers ..... the cable is naturally passed through the pipe so that it does not slip ...... in the figure it has already stretched out ... .tighten up - a minute of business ..... the steering accuracy is obtained as on the other
At first, the engine on the car overheated after 8 minutes of running and had to wait 15 minutes to cool down ... which naturally did not suit ... I had to do forced cooling. I took a 0.5 plastic bottle and a "Volkan-6" cooler from the processor. A box of tooth powder "tied" these components.
General view with battery
As a result, the car cost 80 rubles (Eighty)
...of which 50 for the seat upholstery
25 for a throttle button and a bunch of rusty bolts...
another 5 rubles for a cable for the steering mechanism,
the rest was found in the garage in stocks since the days of the USSR.
4 pulleys were machined at the factory and L-shaped pieces were made for the front axle ....
the rest is at home.
Technical characteristics of children's electric car:
weight 15 kg. (with battery 60Ah \ 12 V - 34kg.)
load - up to 30 kg ..... if you strengthen the frame with a corner, then 40 kg is possible
speed 14 km/h
power reserve - more than 50 km (actually drove 8 hours in a row)
engine power - 90 watts.
steering cable - type rail
air cooling.
there are no brakes.
driving mode - forward-back-neutral .... left-right.
That's all......
the child is just happy ... - still - he and his dad made himself a real car.
Z.Y. Now he asks to make a brake pedal
It was refused ... I adapted to slow down by switching the engines into reverse.
Homemade children's electric buggy
After reading - having seen enough, I also decided to try myself in the construction of a buggy - electric buggy for my son (4 years old), but with an eye on the future adult version, so I probably put more strength into the suspension. I decided not to wind up the frame, to make it as simple as possible.
The layout is double, side by side, but maybe one after the other, I’ll decide along the way.
The drive on both back wheels from the electric motor through a reducer.
Reducers are self-made, two-stage, U=13.
Two electric motors from the Volga, 0.23 kW each, 2300 rpm, homemade PWM control.
The maximum speed is 11 km/h.
Bicycle disc brakes. Rope drive.
Wheels from a garden wheelbarrow - Ф320 mm.
A few pictures of finished units:
Picked up the suspension:
So far, without PWM, just a button through the keys.
The bushing for the rear wheel is turned, with a keyway, inserted into the wheel and scalded along the contour on both sides. The first post has a photo of the rear wheels. A shaft comes out of the gearbox, a wheel is mounted on it and fastened with a homemade bolt.
The front wheels are unchanged, on native Chinese bearings, mounted on a rod Ø16 mm., Only inside between the bearings a spacer sleeve from the 15th pipe is added so that the wheels can be tightened.
Redid the front suspension. Lengthened the levers, moved the attachment point. Now the steering during the operation of the suspension is practically absent, although the suspension has become stiffer.
I welded an iron pedal assembly instead of a plastic one from a computer, now there are brakes.
I also tried PWM. Pretty cool. Can even crawl like a turtle. I'm still thinking about how to organize a reverse gear, it's too much current. I picked up a 50A ammeter here - it goes off scale
Two switches, four blocks each, assembled one of them
How we made electric car 2
And here it is, the sequel...
We drove the first car for two seasons (now it is gathering dust in the garage). At first she seemed so beautiful, but now, having soberly assessed her appearance, we are horrified. The son has grown up, his view of the aesthetic side of the car has changed, maybe there are other reasons, but car-1 was no longer suitable, but I want to ride ... As usual, my parents have no money (no, we are not greedy, just prices have risen again). In short, it's time to make a car-2.
There were several nuances:
1.
The car should be as large and powerful as possible and at the same time enter an ordinary elevator, pass through the doors of an ordinary apartment and be light.
2.
Consume little energy.
3.
To be beautiful.
4.
Other incompatible requirements.
5.
The total power of the engines is not less than 180 watts.
6.
Having the experience of car-1, it was decided that the brakes are MANDATORY.
7.
Smooth "gas", i.e. I needed an electronic motor control circuit.
8.
The wheels are inflatable.
Wheels were purchased first. Wheels from a conventional garden cart. Selected for appearance, size and WEIGHT. I was on the market today and bought wheels for a car with a diameter - 350 mm width - 80 mm weight - about 600 grams one (that is, surprisingly light ... which is what you need) two bearings. For 4 pieces they asked for 2000 rubles .... they gave it for 1800 ... well, there are simply no words ..... and this green creature (in the sense of a toad) .... Oh. The larger the children, the more expensive the toys. Now, about the sad things, I opened the wheels (which I bought for 450 rubles a piece), looked at the bearings ..... There are no words from indignation, a huge backlash, low-quality iron (you can make a deep scratch with an ordinary nail), they make noise when driving .... it sucks , and not bearings, you will have to spend money and buy 8 new bearings .... And this is an additional 250 rubles. Yes, Chinese bearings are ..... well, in short, I did not expect this. I bought 8 bearings 204 for wheels, 4 - 101 for suspension, 3 - 100 for brakes - I gave 290 rubles in total. The bearings are satisfied - there is no backlash and they are not scratched with a nail. Then the engines were selected. Considering all the accumulated knowledge and the environment in the field of availability of engines on the market, we settled on the engines of the cooling system from a passenger car.
250 watt (very tempting in terms of power) from UAZ or Volga did not fit for two reasons. 1. expensive (1000 rubles a piece). 2. current consumption is quite large.
There were 110 watts from the VAZ, they were then bought for 450 rubles. per piece
After buying the engines, the question became, how will the torque be transmitted to the wheels?
After numerous experiments, it was decided that with a rubber band cut out from the chamber of a car. And therefore, pulleys for the wheels and for the engine would have been ordered from the turner at the factory. According to the drawing I gave. pulleys.
I want to warn those who will repeat my deeds. As it turned out, for a flat-belt transmission, BARRELS-SHAPED pulleys are needed, otherwise the belt crawls out from the pulleys ... I didn’t want to redo anything, and I wasn’t going to and got out of this situation by cutting one wide belt into 4 thin
What to do with the engine speed control? I ordered the Dimmer for incandescent lamps 12 V / 50 A - NM4511 ... they asked for 250 rubles. Promised to bring within two weeks maximum.
This regulator works in pulse mode, exactly the same mode on screwdrivers. Got a motor control kit.
first impressions - And this snot will drive 600 watt motors???
Until I do it and I'm not convinced - I will not believe it.
The scheme of the whole car was modified for use as an engine regulator, some elements were added. The power transistor was planted on a radiator from the processor.
Steering wheel….needed a small steering wheel…where can I get it?
All sorts of thoughts thought, but I had to go to the car market fork out 500 rubles. on a real sports steering wheel from a real car.
Now about the important thing - the brakes. at first we thought about disk ones from bicycles, but their price is 1400 for one set ... otherwise it would be generally gorgeous
I had to look for a cheaper option ... and it was seen on a factory 4-wheel adult bike - the wheels are braked by simply pressing the bar to the rubber of the wheel from above.
Now we need to buy plywood, more bolts, radio components, sensors ... well, there is still a lot of small things ... And you won’t find some in our city at all - you have to order it. Weld the pedals ..., buy paints, work, horror in short.
But then you can already cook the frame!
Put and slowly collect the car ...
The electrical circuit has also been given more than one day ...
After sawing off the excess and processing it with a file, they took it to the garage ...
We are already in the garage (the mother of the children kicked out of the house so that they do not stink of paint) we are priming the car. It remains to pull the pieces of rubber hose on the bumper (dear dog)
and install a bike computer (shows speed, distance traveled .... and a bunch of all sorts of data ... wheel size is adjustable, so it shows quite accurately),
and put the battery 75 A / h.,
and creation - machine-2 is ready!
Sometimes my son and I ride it together - that is. load under 100 kg.