How to make a glider with your own hands from wood. simple ceiling glider
The glider has smooth rounding of the wing, stabilizer and keel (Fig. 1). This form improves the flight performance of the model. In addition, all connections of parts are made with glue, without the use of metal corners. Thanks to this, the glider is very light, which improves its flight qualities.
And finally, the wing of this model is raised above the fuselage rail and is attached with wire racks. Such a device increases the stability of the model in flight.
Model work.
Let's start working on the model by drawing working drawings.
The fuselage of the model consists of a rail 700 mm long and with a section in the bow 10X6, and in the tail 7X5 mm. For the sinker, you need a plank 8-10 thick and 60 mm wide from pine or linden.
We cut out the weight with a knife and process its ends with a file and sandpaper. The front end of the rail will enter the ledge at the top of the weight.
Now let's start making the wing. Both of its edges should be 680 long and 4X4 mm in section. We will make two end roundings for the wing from aluminum wire with a diameter of 2 mm or from pine slats 250 mm long and 4X4 mm in section.
Soak the slats in hot water for 15-20 minutes before bending. Glass or tin cans or bottles of the desired bottom-meter can serve as a form for the manufacture of smooth roundings. In our model, the molds for the wing should have a diameter of 110 mm, and for the stabilizer and keel - 85 mm. Having steamed out the slats, wrap each of them tightly around the can and tie the ends together with an elastic band or thread. Having thus bent the required number of slats, leave them to dry (Fig. 2 a).
Rice. 2 Making a wing. a - obtaining roundings; b - connection "on the mustache"
Rounding can be done in another way. Draw a rounding on a separate sheet of paper and place this drawing on the board. Drive cloves along the contour of the rounding. Having tied the steamed rail to one of the studs, we will begin to carefully bend it. We will tie the ends of the rails together with an elastic band or thread and leave to dry completely.
We connect the ends of the roundings with the edges "on the mustache". To do this, we cut off the ends to be joined at a distance of 30 mm from each of them, as shown in Figure 2, b, and carefully fit them to each other so that there is no gap between them. Let's put a clamp on the joint, carefully wrap it with a thread and glue it again on top. It should be borne in mind that the longer the connection "by the mustache", the stronger it is.
We will bend the ribs for the wing on the machine. We will precisely mark the places of their installation according to the drawing. The wing after each operation (setting the rounding of the ribs) will be superimposed on the drawing to make sure that the assembly is correct.
Then we look at the wing from the end and check if any rib protrudes above the other “hump”.
After the glue dries at the junction of the ribs with the edges, it is necessary to give the wing a transverse angle V. Before bending, we soak the middle of the edges of the wing under a tap with a stream of hot water and heat the bend over the fire of an alcohol lamp, candle or over a soldering iron.
We will not move the heated part above the flame, so that the rail does not break due to overheating. We will bend the rail until the place of heating remains hot, and release it only after it has cooled down.
We check the angle of the transverse V by attaching the wing end to the drawing. By bending one edge, we will bend the other in the same way. Let's check whether the angle of the transverse V is the same for both edges - it should be 8 ° on each side.
The wing mount consists of two V-shaped struts (struts), bent from steel wire with a diameter of 0.75-1.0 mm and a pine plank 140 mm long and 6X3 mm in section. The dimensions and shape of the struts are shown in fig. 3.
Rice. 3 Wing attachment.
The struts are attached to the edges of the wing with threads and glue. As can be seen from the figure, the front brace is higher than the rear. As a result, the installation angle of the wing is formed.
We will make the stabilizer from two rails 400 mm long, and the keel from one such rail.
We steam the slats and bend them, using a jar with a diameter of 85 - 90 mm as a form. In order to mount the stabilizer on the fuselage rail, we cut out a bar 110 mm long and 3 mm high. We will tie the front and rear edges of the stabilizer in the center with threads to this bar.
We will sharpen the ends of the keel rounding, in the bar next to the edges of the stabilizer we will make punctures-nests and insert the pointed ends of the keel into them (Fig. 4).
And now you can start covering the model with tissue paper. The wing and stabilizer will be pasted over only from above, and the keel - from both sides.
Model assembly.
Let's start assembling the model with the plumage: we put the stabilizer on the rear end of the fuselage rail and wrap the front and rear ends of the connecting bar together with the rail with an elastic band.
To launch the model on the rail, we will make two hooks from steel wire and tie them with threads to the fuselage rail between the leading edge of the wing and the center of gravity of the model. The first launches of the model are feasible from the front hook.
Model launch.
After making sure that the launch is successful, you can run the model from the second hook.
It should be borne in mind that in windy weather it is better to launch the model from the front hook, and in quiet weather - from the back hook.
Headwind, clouds, natural scenery, grace and serenity. No, this is not every hippie's dream (although... who knows). This is familiar to anyone who is interested in the sport of gliding. Well, sport or not sport, it's up to you, but the hobby is great. Gliding - what is it? Designing models of "airplanes" and their practical implementation. Launch, flight, adjustment, launch again and so on. For the most part, gliding is a child's game for adult uncles and aunts. The designs of the airframe are not repeated, each airplane is individual. Hence the interest: to build something new, not seen before. In general, the main center around which all actions are tied is the glider. It is in it that the philosophy of gliding lies. And how to do it, this plane? A question of effort and desire.
Model selection
A homemade glider must have some qualities that can be noted in its commercial counterpart. Firstly, the plane, as planned, must fly, and for a long time. Secondly, the model must be strong so that when it hits the ground, it does not break into its component parts.
And, thirdly, no one has yet canceled the grace of flight, the more “correctly” the glider flies, the smoother its trajectory, the better. At first glance, it's easy. But no. It is these characteristics that glider pilots have been trying to achieve from their offspring for years, improving and improving their models.
It would be nice to immediately deal with the design. What will the glider be like? It is difficult to achieve correctness with your own hands, so you should at least somehow adhere to the general rules. It can be difficult for beginners to make complex models, so it’s worth coming up with something easy, but no less elegant than store-bought options. So, there are two designs of gliders that do not require special forces and costs. Because of this, they fit great. The first glider is very light. It is based on the constructor example. This copy will be assembled, corrected, launched right at the place of "testing". The second plane will be prefabricated, solid and more stable. But, as you know, its manufacture is hard and painstaking work. Not every beginner glider builder will build one with ease.
Glider drawings - a brief introduction
For the first and second airframe, the set of resources will be almost the same. Wooden blocks, twine, be sure to glue (in fact, it is not recommended to save on it both in quantity and quality), ceiling tiles, a piece of plywood. In general, you can start.
Dimensions of the first airframe
As you know, the first plane will be very light. Its knots will be attached with stationery rubber bands and glue.
Therefore, accuracy here should not be adhered to. It is worth remembering just a few rules. The length of the glider should not exceed a meter, and the wingspan - one and a half meters. The rest is for personal presentation.
Second airframe dimensions
Here it is worth thinking about the quality of production. After all, the details of an integral aircraft must be adjusted to the millimeter. The drawings of gliders must always correspond to the models being made, otherwise they will not fly. So, a complex model should have the following dimensions.
In length, the aircraft will be able to "grow" by eight hundred millimeters. The width of the wingspan will be one thousand six hundred millimeters. Attention, the new value is the height. What does it include? "Growth" of the fuselage and stabilizer. All this will come out a hundred millimeters. The main numbers are known, so it's worth getting to work.
DIY glider - simple version
Nobody has canceled the practice yet, therefore, in order to achieve something, it is worth working hard. With the design of gliders, everything is the same. But do not forget that there is an easy way: to create an aircraft that does not require painstaking work. Aircraft constructor - the easiest way to make a lightweight glider with your own hands. Very simple. Firstly, it will not be large, which will significantly reduce the processing time.
Complex airplane
It is easy to make a children's glider with your own hands. "Adult" models require some effort and more time to design. But the result is worth it. Making a full-fledged glider begins with the preparation of the wings. They are carefully and accurately cut, polished. The shape of the wing can be very different. Flat to round. Complex gliders are distinguished by the presence of counterweights. They give stability to the model. The body of the airframe can be streamlined wooden blocks. The rest: wings, stabilizers, keel - everything is the same as in the previous version. With only one small difference: these parts are fixed with glue. Therefore, any changes after launch are not possible. That is why it is so important to calculate everything in advance.
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SCHEMATIC MODELS OF THE AIRPLANE AND Glider
Soviet aircraft modelers built hundreds of the most interesting models of aircraft and gliders, from schematic to jet and radio-controlled.
The schematic model is the first step into "small aircraft". Schematic models of this class are called because they basically reproduce only the scheme of a real aircraft or glider. Such a model aircraft, equipped with a rubber motor, can fly a distance of at least 75 meters. A well-made glider model stays in the air for up to an hour.
The design of the described glider and aircraft models is so simple that it can be built in a school aircraft modeling circle, in a pioneer camp or at home. The main details of the model: wings, stabilizers, keels and others are made from ordinary pine planks. The pine going to these parts must meet the most elementary requirements - to be straight-grained, without knots, dry and not resinous.
To build models, it is enough to have: a planer, penknife, pliers, round nose pliers, a file and scissors.
SCHEMATIC MODEL OF THE Glider
Working drawings of the airframe model are given on sheet No. 1.
The main dimensions of the model:
wingspan - 940 mm,
model length - 1000 mm,
flight weight - 150 g.
The model, like a real glider, does not have a motor. She makes a flight, supported by oncoming air currents.
SCHEMATIC MODEL OF THE AIRCRAFT
Sheet No. 2 shows the complete working drawings of the model.
The dimensions of all parts and details are given in actual size.
The main dimensions of the model:
wingspan - 680 mm,
model length - 900 mm,
flight weight - 75 g,
screw size 240 mm.
A rubber motor is used as the engine. The propeller installation consists of a propeller with an axle mounted in a bearing and a rubber bundle. The rubber bundle is made of six threads of rubber with a section of 1 X 4 mm.
Before proceeding with the construction, carefully read the working drawings of the model and the text. Prepare the necessary material and tools.
HOW TO USE THE DRAWINGS.
Our drawings are working, and all the details on them are drawn in full size. Therefore, in order to set the size of a particular part, it can be superimposed directly on the drawing.
PROCEDURE FOR MANUFACTURING PARTS OF THE MODEL.
When building models, you should go from simpler parts to more complex ones. First, cut out the rail, then make the keel, followed by the stabilizer, and then proceed to the manufacture of the wing.
HOW TO BEND PINE EDGES.
To make roundings of the wing, stabilizer and keel from pine planks, make a blank, and to bend the ribs (wing cross bars) - a template. The method will be as follows: planochki planed according to the drawing are steamed in boiling water for 5-10 minutes, and then bent on a blank, their ends are tied and left in this position until completely dry. The ribs are bent on a special template (see drawing) and fixed on it with a tin bracket until dry.
JOINTING ROUNDINGS WITH EDGES.
To splice the curves of the wing, stabilizer, keel with the corresponding edges, cut their ends obliquely so that when they overlap each other, they do not exceed the section of the edge. Lubricate the splices of the rounded edges with glue and tie tightly with a thread.
HOW TO PAPER WING AND TAIL.
Before pasting, the model is assembled and its parts are verified. After the distortions of the stabilizer wing and keel are eliminated, they are covered with tissue paper. Wings and stabilizer on the top side, keel on both sides. Tighten the wing with two people. Holding the paper by the corners, place it over the glued wing and smooth it over the ribs and edges. The paper is glued first on one half of the wing to the central rib, and then on the second part. Make sure that wrinkles do not form during tightening. After the glue dries, cut off the excess paper with a knife or fine glass skin. Sprinkle the covered wing and tail unit with mist.
ADJUSTMENT AND STARTING MODELS.
Before launching a model glider or aircraft, it must be adjusted. To do this, take the model behind the wing by the fuselage rail and, pointing slightly down, release it from your hand by slightly pushing it forward. The model should fly 10-12 meters. If the model lifts its nose up, move the wing back a little; if the model is too steep to land, move the wing forward. When flying the model with a list to the right or to the left wing, align the keel or straighten the wing as it is warped. If the model turns to the right or left during flight, adjust the keel turns.
People invented the glider a long time ago: it appeared much earlier than the airplane. Thinking about flying through the air many hundreds of years ago, people could not imagine flying otherwise than on an apparatus that looks like a bird and always flaps its wings. These thoughts are also reflected in the works of the brilliant Italian scientist and artist Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), who left behind a number of sketches of flapping aircraft (Fig. 80). Flying with flapping wings is also mentioned in ancient legends, for example, in the ancient Greek myth of Daedalus. Here is the myth.
The Greek sculptor and architect Daedalus was invited by the king of the island of Crete - Minos to perform a number of works. However, Minos did not want to let Daedalus and his young son Icarus go when the work required under the contract was completed. Under various pretexts, he interfered with the departure of the sculptor, forbidding him to be taken on ships or given a boat.
Daedalus was determined to return to his homeland. Being a skilled builder, he found a means for this: having collected a large number of bird feathers, he made four large wings out of them with the help of thread and wax, for himself and Icarus.
Attaching these wings to their backs, Daedalus and Icarus jumped from the tower in which they were imprisoned and flew over the sea, flapping their wings. Delighted with the feeling of flight, Icarus rose higher and higher, despite his father's warnings, and approached the sun. The wax connecting the feathers was melted by the hot rays of the sun, the wings crumbled and Icarus fell into the sea...
This is the legend. Attempts to fly were made much later. However, in the end, people realized that the muscular strength of a person is not enough to imitate the flapping flight of birds. But the bird often flies without flapping, glides or soars in the air with fixed wings.
Noticing this, the inventors took a new path - the path of creating gliders. In Russia, as indicated in the manuscript of Daniil Zatochnik, found in the Chudov Monastery, such attempts were made even before the 13th century: even then people managed to make short gliding flights.
However, only at the end of the last century, scientists and engineers turned to the creation of a glider. Similar experiments were made by A.F. Mozhaisky. Before building his aircraft, Mozhaisky conducted lengthy research with glider kites. However, deciding not to be distracted from the main task - the creation of an aircraft (which he completed in 1882), Mozhaisky abandoned his experiments with gliders.
The works of Mozhaisky were continued in the works of S. S. Nezhdaiovsky, who built a number of models of gliders in the 90s of the 19th century, which flew steadily and well after unhooking from the cable on which these gliders were launched.
Of great interest were the flights of the German researcher Otto Lilienthal, who, continuing the experiments of his predecessors, performed from 1891 to 1896 about 2000 gliding flights on balapsyrpy gliders designed and built by him. In August 1896, Lilienthal had an accident and died.
The word "balancing" means that the glider pilot maintains balance during the flight, balancing with his body (Fig. 81).
Professor N. E. Zhukovsky led the propaganda of gliding flights in Russia. A whole generation of Russian planoists grew up from among the students of Zhukovsky: B. I. Rossiiskin, A. V. Shiukov, K. K. Artseulov, P. N. Nesterov, G. S. Tereverko and others. gliders.
Successes in the field of aircraft creation interrupted work on gliders for a rather long period of time. They returned to them after the First World War of 1914-1918. Especially persistently the construction of gliders and flights on them were deployed
Germans.
They had special reasons for this: Germany was defeated in the First World War and was deprived of the right to build military aircraft and have military aviation and the corresponding flight personnel.
The Germans managed to circumvent the ban on the production of military aircraft - they began to build them in other countries. But flight personnel had to be trained in Germany itself. It was for this purpose that the glider came in handy, which made it possible to quickly and cost-effectively train pilots.
Many other countries followed the example of the Germans. There were special schools in which glider pilots were trained. Aircraft factories began to produce gliders for training purposes - simple, cheap and low-maintenance machines that were easy to build in handicraft workshops.
It was soon discovered that light gliders were capable of not only gliding, but also soaring, gaining high altitude, and performing many aerobatic maneuvers. This allowed, along with flight training, to carry out sports work. Competitions for distance and duration of flight, altitude and carrying capacity, performance of figures, etc., have become genuine holidays in gliding. They attracted a large number of young people to glider schools and aviation and turned glider flights into a mass sports movement - gliding.
A variety of sports and technical tasks that arose before glider pilots required the design and construction of special types of gliders. There was a division of gliders into training and sports.
Later, military experts came to the conclusion that gliders, as low-cost aircraft with high aerodynamic qualities, could be first transport and then landing gliders.
Landing is the landing of troops on enemy territory. Previously, amphibious assaults were known. With the advent of aviation, airborne landings also became possible: troops landed on enemy territory from aircraft or gliders, which for this purpose flew behind enemy lines and landed there. If it was impossible to land, they began to drop troops and weapons by parachute (parachute assault forces).
The first gliders - balancing - took off very simply. The glider pilot, pulling the longitudinal bars above the waist, kept the glider in the air. Standing against the wind on a fairly steep slope (Fig. 81), he ran down it against the wind until he felt that the wings give sufficient lift. Then, pulling up his legs, the glider pilot allowed the apparatus to fly, while he himself cared only about maintaining balance.
On a balancing glider, the glider hangs on his hands all the time. You can’t fly like that for a long time, since the glider, meeting the flow at full height, increases the resistance of the glider. Therefore, balancing gliders have long been abandoned.
On fig. 82, a and 82.6 shows a modern record glider. Its basis is narrow and long wings. They are mounted on a streamlined fuselage. In front of the fuselage is a cockpit in which the glider is placed. The cockpit contains instruments that allow the glider pilot to control the altitude and speed of flight - altitude indicators (altimeter) and speed. They are posted on the dashboard. There is also a device that indicates the vertical speed of planning - a variometer.
The glider pilot sits behind a large transparent "glass" (it is curved from transparent plastic). The glider pilot's legs rest on the pedals: by turning them, he sets the rudder in motion. In the right hand of the glider pilot, the elevator control stick is clamped. The handle and pedal are connected to the rudders with cables. Moving the stick sideways can control the ailerons and roll the glider with them or correct accidental rolls.
Such a glider takes off and lands on a special ski.
To take off a glider, it was often used to launch on a rubber cord (shock absorber). The middle of a long rubber shock absorber was attached to a hook in the nose of the airframe. The glider was fixed on the ground with a special device. The starting team, having broken into two parts, began to pull the free ends of the shock absorber, slightly diverging to the sides (Fig. 83). When the resulting giant slingshot was stretched enough, the glider pilot, using the handle located in the cockpit, released the glider from the stopper, and the glider was thrown into the air.
Such a launch can be made on a fairly steep slope. Therefore, having taken off on a shock absorber, the glider can glide as long as there is a slope.
The described start requires slopes, which are not available everywhere. In addition, he throws the glider to a low altitude. For this reason, many other methods of launching a glider have long been used.
One of them can be called a motostart. It is done like this. In front of the glider, at the required distance from it, a motorized winch is installed. The cable from it stretches to the glider. At a signal from the plaperist, the operator turns on the winch drum, and the cable begins to “get out” at normal speed and pulls the glider behind it, which, leaving the ground, goes higher and higher. At the right moment, the glider pilot drops the cable and goes into free flight.
Another way is to tow the plaper by plane. The aircraft and glider are connected by a towline and take off together. Having reached a predetermined height, which can be large, the glider unhooks and goes into free flight.
Towing gliders by aircraft is also used in cases where it is necessary to transfer gliders over long distances. Sometimes, if the aircraft has the required power, it will tow two or three or more gliders. The combination of an aircraft and towed gliders was called an air train.
Of great interest is free flight in a glider. As you know, when planning along an inclined trajectory, the glider passes some way every second. If in the same second the air, in turn, rises up, then, dragging the glider with it, it will also lift it. As a result, if the speed of the ascending air flow is large enough - more than the rate of descent of the glider in still air - then in 1 second the glider will not be at point B (Fig. 84), as it would be in the absence of ascending flows, but at point C lying higher than the starting point A.
Such flight in updrafts, without loss of altitude or with its gain, is called soaring. And how ascending currents arise, see A LITTLE THEORY. AIR, PROPERTIES, RESEARCH.
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Former Soviet air sportsmen in the era of the development of gliders have achieved outstanding success in all areas of gliding. If in pre-revolutionary Russia only individuals were engaged in glider flights, then after the Great October Socialist Revolution, hundreds and thousands of people began to practice this sport.
Already in 1921 in Moscow, a group of military pilots organized a glider club "Soaring Flight". The members of the circle not only designed and built gliders themselves, but also carried out organizational and propaganda work. By 1923, they organized up to 10 glider circles: in Moscow. Voronezh, Kharkov, Podolsk, Narofominsk, etc.
In two Moscow circles - "Soaring Flight" and the Academy of the Air Fleet - they built gliders of the system of K. K. Artseulov, B. I. Cheranovsky and now an honored worker of science and technology, and then a student of the Academy - V. S. Pyshnov. S. V. Ilyushin, then a student and now a well-known designer of the famous Il aircraft, began his activity in the circle of the Academy.
In 1923, the newly organized Society of Friends of the Air Fleet, together with the leaders of the Soaring Flight circle, prepared the first all-Union meeting of glider pilots, which took place in November 1923 in the Crimea, in the town of Koktebel, not far from Feodosia. And although only 10 gliders participated in the rally, it was here that the foundations of Soviet gliding were laid.
In 1925, there were already more than 250 glider circles in the USSR, uniting several thousand people.
In 1925, our glider pilots participated in the International Gliding Competition in Ron (Germany), from where they returned with four honorary prizes. In the same 1925, foreign glider pilots flew at the start of the third all-Union glider rally. Here our glider pilots won two world records.
In subsequent years, Soviet athletes set one record after another.
In 1936, the master of Soviet gliding, V. M. Ilchenko, set the first official international record for the flight distance on a multi-seat glider, covering a distance of 133.4 km. In 1938, he brought this record to 552.1 km. In 1937, the glider pilot Rastorguev on a single-seat glider Groshev (GN-7) showed a range of 652.3 km. Two years later, Olga Klepikova increased the range to 749.2 km. And, finally, after a break caused by the Great Patriotic War, Ilchenko set a new outstanding glider flight distance record by landing at a point 825 km away from the take-off point in a straight line.
Of course, now gliders have receded into the historical past in aviation. But nevertheless, they are used, both by private individuals and by the state, mainly for training and familiarization with flight practice.
Model aircraft, in fact, are the younger brothers of glider pilots and professional pilots. Practicing in building the simplest models, they nevertheless acquire the necessary skills and knowledge in the process and launch of the models. However, it is not immediately possible to obtain high knowledge and good skills. You always have to start with something simpler.
This chapter provides a description of the simplest airframe model, with which it is recommended to start working on airframes. It is called a schematic airframe model.
DEVICE OF THE SCHEMATIC MODEL OF THE AIRFLIGHT
Previously, descriptions of large gliders, on which our glider pilots fly, have already been given. Look now at fig. 85: This is a schematic model of an airframe. We see that instead of a thick fuselage that can accommodate a glider (and sometimes several people), our model has only a rail. Instead of the thick wings and empennage that every real glider has, our model has a thin wing and an equally thin stabilizer and fin.
True, there is a load in the forward part of the rail (Fig. 85), which gives the rail some resemblance to the fuselage, but this similarity exists as long as we look at the model from the side, and looking at it from the front, we will notice that the cargo is flat and there is almost no volume. It has.
That is why the model is called schematic, that is, it resembles a real glider (according to the diagram), but still differs from it, since it does not have a fuselage.
The model is very simple in its structure. In addition to a long and thin rail, on the nose of which a wooden “weight” is nailed, it has a wing (Fig. 86) and plumage, consisting of a keel and a stabilizer.
The wing, if you look at the model from above, has a trapezoidal shape, and in front - a transverse V, familiar to us from paper models. The wing core consists of the leading and trailing edges, interconnected by ribs. Of the seven ribs, both extreme ones are straight, the rest are slightly curved. Under the central rib there is a bar with which the wing is attached to the rail.
Rice. 86. Schematic model of the airframe in three views: top - side view, middle - top view, bottom - view
The stabilizer is a rectangular frame, and the keel has the shape of a trapezoid. Close-fitting - made of thin (cigarette) paper - is glued to the wing and stabilizer on top. The keel is fitted on both sides.
Two small hook nails are driven into the rail under the wing (Fig. 86). These hooks are used to launch the model on a thread (rail).
Without a drawing, it is difficult to correctly build a model. Drawings in engineering are used always and everywhere when you need to build something or depict a device.
A drawing of a model is its image in several projections. These projections are obtained as follows. On fig. 87 shows a model hanging in the air among three mutually perpendicular planes. If on a horizontal plane we depict everything that we see when we look at the model from above, then we get the so-called "top view". An image on a vertical plane of what is seen from the side (in our figure - on the left) will give a "side view". We will also get a "front view". If these three types are not enough, then additional types are made.
On the projections, the sizes of individual parts are inscribed, and sometimes the material from which they are made is also indicated. If the projections are obtained as shown in Fig. 87, then the dimensions of the parts in the drawing will be the same as those of the model. In this case, the drawing is said to be drawn to one-to-one scale, or life-size.
It is possible, however, to do otherwise: having projections made in full size, they reduce all sizes by the same number of times. It turns out a reduced image of the model also in several projections. If the reduction is made by 10 times, then they say that the drawing is made on a scale of one to ten (one tenth of natural size). In short, this is written as follows: M = 1:10.
On fig. 86 shows a drawing of the described schematic model of the airframe on a scale of 1: 10. Having it before our eyes, let's move on to building the model.
Preparing to build the model
Our airframe model is built from the simplest materials. To build it, you need to prepare: a pine plank 8-10 mm thick, several dry pine slats (slats from model aircraft package No. 4 are suitable), a sheet of tissue or thin writing paper, a spool of thread, casein or carpentry glue and several small carnations.
Of the tools you will need: a small knife, a sharp knife, a hammer, scissors.
DRAWING A WORK DRAWING
Before you start building a model, you need to draw its working drawing, i.e., a life-size drawing. On fig. 88 it is drawn on a scale of 1:10. Exactly the same drawing, but in full size, you need to draw on a piece of paper. For work, it is more convenient to draw not the entire model, but its individual parts. On fig. 88 drawn half of the wing, keel and stabilizer.
To draw a wing, an axial line is drawn in the upper part of a sheet of paper (dotted line in Fig. 88) 400-450 mm long. Then, at the left end of the center line, another line 130-150 mm long is drawn perpendicular to it. Lay along this line up and down from the axial 60 mm each - these will be the ends of the middle (central) rib. At a distance of 125 mm from the first line, the same and at the same distance the second and third lines are drawn. They indicate the location of the wing ribs. On the last perpendicular, 375 mm from the first, lay 35 mm up and down - these will be the ends of the extreme rib of the wing. The slanted lines will indicate the edges of the wing edges, and their intersection with the other two perpendiculars will give the dimensions of the middle two ribs.
On fig. 88 shows the length of each rib and the width of the wing tip. After the edges of the wing are drawn, the shape of the wing half will be clearly defined. Now you can circle all the lines again with a pencil, pressing harder on it. All extra lines must be erased with an elastic band so that the drawing of the wing is also clean.
The stabilizer has a simple shape, and drawing it is not difficult. It can be drawn entirely - it will take up little space. It is just as easy to draw a keel. It is more difficult to draw a load (Fig. 89), but this difficulty can be circumvented by drawing a load that is close in shape to that shown in our figure. A slight change in the shape of the weight will not impair the flight performance of the model. But still it is important that the weight has dimensions: 60 mm in height and 185 mm in length.
More precisely, the weight can be drawn in the cells, as indicated by the par rms. 89. (Thus, it is possible to redraw, at the same time increasing many times over, any curly details.)
After all the details of the model are drawn, and the extra lines are erased, you need to carefully put down all the dimensions, comparing them with Fig. 88. The working drawing is ready. You can proceed to the construction of the model.
RAIL MANUFACTURING
The construction of the model must begin with the manufacture of rails. For this purpose, you can use the finished rail from the package. If the lath turns out to be thicker than necessary, it should be trimmed with a planer to a thickness of 5X10 mm and cleaned with fine sandpaper. Plane thick turnips on a table or a special stand. One end of the turnip, placed on the workbench, should rest against the stop made in advance. It is necessary to plan the rail gradually, removing thin shavings from it and making sure that its cross section is rectangular, 5x10 mm in size.
If there is no slats from the model aircraft package, it can be sawn off from the main board and then planed. To do this, choose a straight-layer board with a thickness of 10-15 mm, without knots. Such a board allows you to do without a saw - it easily pricks into thin slats (torches). You need to chop the board with a small hatchet or a large knife (mower). Having chosen from the obtained torches suitable in size, they plan it with a planer and process it with sandpaper. The finished turnip should be straight. If for some reason this did not work out, it is necessary to level it over the fire. I
A weight is cut out of a plank 8-10 mm thick and at least 60 mm wide, using a previously made drawing. For this purpose, you can redraw the shape of the weight on a board using carbon paper or chop it. You can cut the weight with a knife, but it is better with a jigsaw. Since the thickness of the weight should not exceed 8 mm, you first need to bring the plank to the required thickness with a planer. After the weight is cut out, its edges, except for the top, need to be slightly rounded and cleaned with sandpaper; the upper part of the weight should be flat, as a rail is nailed to it on three studs 20-25 mm long; the junction is pre-coated with glue.
In the back of the rail, two grooves are cut with a knife at a distance of 100 mm from one another. The first groove must be cut at a distance of 10 mm from the rear end of the rail. These grooves are necessary for installing and securing the edges of the stabilizer.
The construction of the wing begins with the simplest part - the bar. It is needed to install the wing on the rail at a certain angle. The shape and dimensions of the bar are shown in fig. 90. A plank is made from a pine lath using a planer and a knife. The front edge of the bar is made 10 mm high, the rear - 6 mm. At a distance of 120 mm from each other, two rectangular grooves, 5X3 mm in size, are cut in the upper side of the bar. On the underside, small semicircular grooves for threads are cut under these grooves. The finished bar is carefully cleaned with sandpaper.
For the manufacture of the wing, you will need thin slats with a section of 5 X 3 mm and 5 X 1.5 mm. Such slats are planed with a planer from thin splinter or suitable planks taken from the parcel.
Plane thin slats need to be more careful and accurate than thick ones. It is impossible, when strict lath, to rest with the end against the stop, as when planing a thick lath, since in this case a thin lath will easily break. It must be held with the left hand at the rear end and driven with a planer with the right, only forward from the left hand. For more accurate compliance with the dimensions of the section of the rails and greater convenience, you can plan the rails by "pulling". To do this, you need to nail two strips of plywood 5 mm thick to a table or workbench. (If such plywood is not available, you can use thinner plywood by placing several layers of thick paper under it.) Strips of plywood are nailed so that a groove 8-10 mm wide remains between them.
When planing, the rail is installed on the groove. From above, it is pressed with a planer, after which, holding the planer, the rail is pulled back (Fig. 91). This work is best done together: one holds the planer, the other holds out the rail. You need to stretch the rail several times until the planer finally stops taking chips. This will indicate that the rail is the correct thickness.
Having taken it out of the groove, turn the lath by 90 ° and lay it in the groove between two other plywood strips, the thickness of which is selected in accordance with the required cross-sectional dimensions of the lath. For the wing edges, the groove width should be approximately 5 mm and the thickness of the plywood plates exactly 3 mm.
The slats for the front and rear edges are cut out with a length of about 800 mm, with a margin. Having superimposed them on the drawing of the wing and noting the middle, the edges are bent in these places above the flame of an alcohol lamp or above a candle. Wooden parts are best bent over an electric soldering iron. The edges of the wing in the center are bent upwards - at an angle of 15 ° and back - in accordance with the drawing of the wing (see Fig. 88). So that the tree does not catch fire during bending, it must be moistened with water at the bending point. You should not rush to bend the edge before it warms up: after warming up, it bends more easily. The edge should not be kept above the flame for a long time in one place, otherwise the water will quickly evaporate and the wood will start to burn. You should also not strive to get a bend at an acute angle; a smooth bend of the wing edges is quite acceptable.
For ribs, you need to take rails 200-250 mm long and 5 X 1.5 mm thick and bend them in accordance with the drawing (Fig. 93).
Before you start assembling the wing, you need to mark on both edges with a pencil the places where the ribs will be located. The edges are installed in grooves cut in the plank and pre-lubricated with glue. Both edges are carefully threaded to the bar (Fig. 94).
From rails with a cross section of 5 X 1.5 mm, two (flat) end ribs are made according to the drawing. The ends of the ribs are sharpened with a knife in the form of a wedge. The ends of the edges are split with a knife blade and end ribs are inserted into the crevices, having previously smeared the joints with glue (Fig. 95). All other ribs that have a bulge are adjusted in length exactly according to the drawing. The tips of each of them are also sharpened.
The edges of the wing in the places where the ribs should be are pierced with the end of the knife and the ribs smeared with glue are inserted into the punctures (Fig. 96). Then all joints are once again smeared with glue, distortions are eliminated, after which the wing is laid on a flat table to dry.
Rice. Fig. 96. Method of fixing the ribs on the edges of the wing. 97. Fixing the edges of the stabilizer and keel on the rail
TAIL ASSEMBLY
While the wing is drying, the front and rear edges of the stabilizer and keel are made from the remaining 5X3 mm thick rails. The dimensions of the edges must exactly match the drawing. Having inserted the edges of the stabilizer into the grooves cut in the back of the rail and smeared with glue, as before, they tie the edges to the rail with thin threads (Fig. 97). Then, end ribs are made from rails with a section of 5 X 1.5 mm and fixed in the same way as for the wing. Having smeared the joints of the stabilizer again with glue, allow the stabilizer to dry.
Meanwhile, the ends of the front and rear edges of the keel are sharpened in the form of a wedge. With the tip of a knife, slots are made in the rail (Fig. 97), into which the edges of the keel are inserted with the pointed ends, smearing them with glue. Finally, the end rib of the keel is installed, as was done with the stabilizer, and once again all the joints are smeared with glue.
After complete drying of the finished parts of the model, you need to carefully check for distortions and eliminate them. Warps of the wing and stabilizer are eliminated by carefully twisting them in the direction opposite to the warp. If the wing after such a procedure still remains skewed, then it must be straightened over the flame of the spirit lamp, warming up the edges and ribs and at the same time twisting the wing in the direction opposite to the skew.
Only after the final alignment of the wing and tail assembly can the frame of the model be considered complete.
COVER MODEL
P Before the close-fitting of the model, the entire frame must be carefully cleaned with sandpaper from dirt that could stick to the edges and ribs during assembly and elimination of distortions. It is better to fit the model with tissue paper or thin writing paper. You need to glue the close-fitting with liquid casein or carpentry glue.
The close-fitting of the model begins with the tail unit. A piece of paper comes off so that it is enough for half the stabilizer and one side of the keel. One half of the stabilizer and one side of the keel are smeared with glue. The part of the rail located between the edges of the stabilizer must also be smeared with glue. Stretching the paper in different directions, put it first on the stabilizer, and then on the keel. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the paper sticks well everywhere (Fig. 98).
They also glue the second half of the stabilizer and the other side of the keel. Thus, the stabilizer is covered on the upper side, and the keel on both sides.
After the glue dries, the excess paper is scraped off with sandpaper or cut off with a knife.
The wing is covered in the same way as the tail unit. First, one half is covered, from the central rib to the edge, then the other (Fig. 98). It is impossible to fit two halves of the wing with one sheet at the same time: wrinkles will definitely turn out. When tightening the wing, it is necessary to ensure that the covering is well glued to the ribs. Excess paper, as well as when covering the tail, is scraped off with sandpaper or cut off with a knife.
PREPARATION FOR LAUNCH
Before strengthening the wing on the rail, it is necessary to determine the location of the center of gravity of the rail with the tail unit.
To do this, putting the rail on the edge of the ruler or the blade of the knife and moving the rail to the right and left, they achieve its balance. Having avenged on the rail with a pencil the place where the center of gravity is located, the wing is installed on the rail. The wing is fixed on the rail with threads or thin (1X1 mm) rubber so that the center of gravity is exactly under the first third of the width of the central part of the wing (i.e., at a distance of 40 mm), if it is counted from the leading edge.
ADJUSTMENT AND STARTING
What is regulation
In the process of assembling the model, they strive to give it the correct centering and eliminate any asymmetry, distortions, etc. (Fig. 99). But since everyone does this by eye, it is, of course, difficult to obtain exact symmetry and complete elimination of distortions. Therefore, it is necessary to release the model into flight and, by the nature of its flight, judge the correctness of the assembly, make corrections, and then run the model again and refine the assembly again, make changes to the position of the parts of the model. This is called model tuning.
It is better to adjust the model in calm weather, and it is necessary to start the model while standing. When starting, the model should be held with the right hand by the rail - under the wing and slightly behind the center of gravity. They start the model by tilting it slightly down and pushing it smoothly and not hard. A strong push will cause the model to soar upwards and may break it (Fig. 100). With a slight push, the model will go into a steep dive. Such a flight can be considered normal when the poi model flies 15-20 m when it is launched by hand, and its flight is smooth.
Sometimes the model flies, describing waves, then soaring, then diving (Fig. 100). Such a flight is the result of improper installation of the wing: it is necessary, by placing a piece of cardboard or a match under the back of the bar, to reduce the angle of attack of the wing.
If the model still dives with a well-chosen push, you need to increase the angle of installation of the koyla. If, when planning, the model flies along a curve - it turns to the side, this indicates a skew of the wing or tail or other asymmetry of the assembly. In such cases, it is necessary to carefully check the correct assembly of the model. A correctly assembled model flies smoothly and without turns.
After preliminary adjustment, the model can be launched from a hill, slope, etc.
LAUNCH ON THE LEER
The most interesting is the launch of the glider model on the rail. For a light glider, a handrail is made of bobbin threads No. 10 or 30. A ring of 1 mm thick wire or even a paper clip is tied to the end of the thread. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the ring, a piece of colored matter is strengthened (Fig. 101); this makes it easier to notice the moment of detachment of the rail from the model.
The launch from the lifeline is performed by two modelers: the assistant unwinds the lifeline 30-40 meters and holds it with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; after winding another one and a half to two meters of thread from the spool, he shifts the spool to his right hand. So you need to hold the handrail so that in a strong gust of wind the thread can slip between the fingers of the left hand, which serve as a kind of brake that softens the jerk from the gust of wind. If you neglect this precaution, a gust of wind can break the model's wings.
The aircraft modeler releases the model up at a high angle (Fig. 101). The assistant at this moment is running with the rail against the wind, while trying to observe the flight of the model. If the model aircraft begins to roll or roll from side to side, he should run slower.
With a strong roll and when the nose of the model is lowered down, the coil must be thrown, after which the model must level itself, and the handrail should be unhooked. With the correct takeoff of the model on the rail, it rises up like a kite. When the model aircraft reaches a height approximately equal to the length of the rail, the ring will come off and the model aircraft will unhook.
In windy weather, the handrail ring must be hooked to the first hook, in calm weather - to the second, located closer to the center of gravity.
Having mastered the launch of the model on a short rail, you can launch it on a rail with a length of 100-150 meters or more; in this case, a well-made model plans up to three minutes.
How to make a glider with your own hands. This model is an upgrade airframe models"Hummingbird". "Titmouse" has smooth rounding of the wing, stabilizer and keel (Fig. 81). Which form increases the flight performance of the glider. In addition, all connections of parts are made with glue, without the use of metal corners. Thanks to this, the Titmouse is lighter than the Hummingbird, which also improves its flight qualities. And finally, the wing of this model is raised above the fuselage rail and is attached with wire racks. Such a device increases the stability glider in flight.
Let's start working on the model by drawing working drawings. How to do it, you already know. The fuselage of the model consists of a rail 700 mm long and with a cross section of 40X6 in the nose and 7X5 mm in the tail. For the sinker, you need a plank 8-10 thick and 60 mm wide made of pine or linden. We cut out the weight with a knife and process its ends with a file and sandpaper. The front end of the rail will enter the ledge at the top of the weight. Now let's start making the wing.
Both of its edges should be 680 long and 4X4 mm in knot. We will make two end roundings for the wing from aluminum wire with a diameter of 2 mm or from pine slats 250 mm long and 4X4 mm in section. Soak the slats in hot water for 15-20 minutes before bending. Glass or tin cans or bottles of the desired diameter can serve as a form for the manufacture of smooth curves.
In our glider molds for the wing should have a diameter of 110 mm, and for the stabilizer and keel -85 mm. Having steamed the slats, we wrap each of them tightly around the can and tie the ends together with an elastic band or thread. Having thus bent the required number of slats, let us leave them to dry (Fig. 82, a). Rounding can be done in another way. Draw a rounding on a separate sheet of paper and place this drawing on the board. On the contour of the rounding we will drive in cloves. Having tied the steamed rail to one of the studs, we will begin to carefully bend it.
We tie the ends of the rails together with an elastic band or thread and leave to dry completely. We connect the ends of the roundings with the edges "on the mustache". To do this, we cut off the ends to be joined at a distance of 30 mm from each of them, as shown in Fig. (82, b) and carefully fit them to each other so that there is no gap between them. Lubricate the junction with glue, carefully wrap it with a thread and glue it again on top. It should be borne in mind that the longer the “whisker” connection, the stronger it is. We will bend the ribs for the wing on the machine. We will precisely mark the places of their installation according to the drawing.
The wing after each operation (installation of roundings, ribs) will be superimposed on the drawing to make sure the assembly is correct. Then we look at the wing from the end and check if any rib protrudes above the other “hump”. After the glue dries at the junction of the ribs with the edges, it is necessary to give the wing a transverse angle V. Before bending, we soak the middle of the edges of the wing under a tap with a stream of hot water and heat the bend over the fire of an alcohol lamp, candle or over a soldering iron. We will move the heated part above the flame so that the rail does not break due to overheating.
We will bend the rail until the place of heating remains hot, and release it only after it has cooled down. We check the angle of the transverse V by attaching the wing end to the drawing. By bending one edge, we will bend the other in the same way. Let's check if the angle of the transverse V is the same for both edges - it should be 8 ° on each side. The wing mount consists of two U-shaped struts (struts), bent from steel wire with a diameter of 0.75-1.0 mm and a pine plank 140 mm long and 6X3 mm in section. The dimensions and shape of the struts are shown in fig. (83.
) The struts are attached to the edges of the wing with threads with glue. As can be seen from the figure, the front brace is higher than the rear. As a result, the installation angle of the wing is formed. It should be around -4-2°. The planochka is attached to the rail with an elastic band. We will make the stabilizer from two rails 400 mm long, and the keel from one such rail. We steam the slats and bend them, using a jar with a diameter of 85-90 mm as a form. In order to mount the stabilizer on the fuselage rail, we cut out a bar 110 mm long and 3 mm high.
We will tie the front and rear edges of the stabilizer in the center with threads to this bar. We will sharpen the ends of the keel rounding, in the bar next to the edges of the stabilizer we will make punctures-nests and insert the pointed ends of the keel into them (Fig. 84). And now you can start covering the glider airframe with tissue paper. The wing and stabilizer will be pasted over only from above, and the keel - from both sides. Let's start assembling the airframe with the plumage: we put the stabilizer on the rear end of the fuselage rail and wrap the front and rear ends of the connecting bar together with the rail with an elastic band.
To launch the model of the glider on the rail, we will make two hooks from steel wire and tie them with threads to the fuselage rail between the leading edge of the wing and the center of gravity of the glider. The first launches of the model are feasible from the front hook. After making sure that the launch is successful, you can launch the glider from the second hook. It should be borne in mind that in windy weather it is better to launch the model from the front hook, and in quiet weather - from the back hook.
fig-81, a-general view, b-drawing, c-weight template
rice-82, a-obtaining roundings, b-connection on the mustache
pic-83 wing mount
