Pouring concrete for the area in front of the house. How to pour concrete in your yard with your own hands? Alternative to antifreeze additives

The owner of a private house has probably more than once had the question of what material to fill the yard with? We need convenient paths, places to park a car, install a barbecue, and gazebos for relaxation. For comfortable living in the yard, you can, of course, lay out the area near the house with beautiful tiles, but not everyone can afford its use, and even more so, the tiles may not last long; they often crack and crumble. And the yard will no longer look beautiful and well-groomed. The least labor-intensive and cheapest way to bring your yard into excellent condition is to concrete it. If you wish, you can pour the concrete yard yourself.

Purposes of concreting

Concreting the yard is used for the following purposes:

• creating a flat surface with a solid structure that will not leave traces from large vehicles;
• when concreting the yard of a country house, the formation of dirt and weeds is reduced, and in the winter it is easier to clear it of snow;
• Concreting is used to replace fragile asphalt or expensive tiles;
• The concrete surface in the courtyard of the house allows you to easily install benches, fountains and any other decorative street element.

The nuances of do-it-yourself concreting

Laying concrete has the following nuances:

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself concreting begins with preparatory work. First of all, prepare the necessary tools and materials, after which the area is leveled and the top tier of soil, which contains plant roots, is removed. Next they do. A waterproofing layer in the form of a polyethylene film is laid on the crushed stone. It will not only serve to repel moisture, but will act as a barrier to weed germination. Install formwork along the edges of the site and in areas of future flower beds.

Leveling and preparing the site

Prepared site for concreting.

Work begins with preparing the base; for this, soil with plant roots is removed to a depth of 100 mm. A bedding is made, the thickness of which is from 100 to 200 mm. The “cushion” is made from crushed stone or sand; the use of crushed stone allows you to reduce overall costs. Do not use bedding in places with poorly absorbed soil. After the bedding has been made, compact it with sand and water it with water. To construct the formwork, wooden boards are driven into the ground. It is important to cover the bedding with a plastic layer and seal it with tape. Polyethylene performs the following functions:

• waterproofing, which is designed to protect concrete from rapid destruction;
• barrier, for grass breaking through the frozen solution;
• shutter, does not allow milk from the cement to leak until the solution sets, which helps to reduce the strength characteristics of concrete.

Cushion creation and compaction

“Cushion” is used to improve the quality characteristics of the concrete base. It is made of crushed stone and sand and laid on the ground in an even layer 100-200 mm thick. If necessary, compact the sand using a channel with a handle. The device is immersed in the solution and tamped alternately up and down. You can also do the following: pour a large amount of water on the sand layer and leave it to settle on its own. The disadvantage of this method is the need for a large volume of water, which increases prices and overall costs. Crushed stone 0.6 cm thick is laid on a layer of sand and also compacted.

Preparation of formwork

Formwork and reinforcement of the yard for pouring concrete.

For even hardening, formwork is constructed that will give it the desired shape. To install the formwork, slate sheets, plastic panels, wooden boards and particle boards are used. Before erecting the formwork, clean the working surface and hammer the bars at equal distances. The panels are connected with self-tapping screws or nails. Then they begin to create wooden clamps, which are used to ensure the reliability of the structure at the moment of pressure of the concrete solution on the walls of the forms.

Concreting stages

Concreting the yard consists of the following stages:

• display of beacons;
• reinforcement;
• preparation of concrete solution;
• finishing treatment.

Display of beacons

For placing beacons, the levelness of the construction site is important. This can be ensured even at the stage of laying the “pillow” using a horizontal level. Beacons are placed over the entire area of ​​the working surface for pouring. Thin-sheet profiles and strings, which are connected to each other by stretched stakes or, as they are also called, spiders, can act as a beacon. The spider is designed to guide beacons.

Reinforcement

After installing the beacons, a reinforcement structure is laid between them. It can be made in the form of a wire mesh with a thick diameter. The reinforcement is designed to prevent cracks on the concrete surface between previously installed beacons. In this case, the concrete is poured in such a way as to hide the tops of the beacons by a couple of mm. If necessary, excess concrete is removed with a spatula or other smooth tool. To remove excess mortar, fix the strip perpendicular to the beacons and stretch it with a spatula, thus leveling the surface.

They hardly think about how to properly concrete the yard, because special services do this.

However, owners of private houses are responsible not only for their home, but also for the appearance of the building, as well as for the condition of the yard, since it is the “face of the owner.”

Private sectors with a concreted yard look the most presentable.

Concreting is not only an indicator of the owner’s wealth, it can also get rid of most everyday problems.

You won’t have to fight weeds and mow the grass, it will be easier to keep the yard clean, and in winter you will be able to clear the snow without unnecessary difficulties.

During reinforcement, metal scissors will come in handy. In order to level the finished surface, you need tamping equipment. If it is not possible to purchase a tool specifically designed for leveling, this can usually be done with a thick board.

In addition to all of the above, you need a concrete mixer and a wooden grater (to remove defects).

People who have sufficient experience in concreting sometimes use improvised means instead of specialized equipment. However, for the first time it is best to acquire all the necessary tools. As a last resort, carry out the work according to the instructions of familiar craftsmen if you still decide to use alternative options.

Preliminary work and main stages of concreting the yard

So, let's move on to the stages of preparing the yard for pouring. Below is a list of what you need to do first.

• It is necessary to level the surface of the site. Weeds and any other grass will interfere with the concrete pouring, so they should be removed.
• Lay out the crushed stone in a 20 cm layer and compact it with sand. Very often the crushed stone layer is made thicker than the specified value, in particular due to the use of construction waste mixed with crushed stone.
• If the ground in the yard is hard and dense, then a layer of crushed stone may not be needed, since its main purpose is to strengthen the surface under concrete.
• It is recommended to cover the crushed stone with plastic film to prevent grass from sprouting. It will also provide insulation from moisture.
• In order for the concrete coating to take shape, it is necessary to install metal formwork or special curbs before pouring. Formworks are also installed inside the concreted area, in those places where it is planned to plant. In general, concrete can be shaped into any shape desired.

Having finished with the preparatory work, proceed to the main part, namely pouring concrete. All work is divided into several stages.

Lighthouses

After the crushed stone cushion has been laid out, you should proceed to arranging the beacons. They will serve as guidelines when pouring concrete, thanks to them the result will look neat and presentable. According to the standard, plaster beacons are used, as well as the “spider” system (ropes stretched between wooden stakes).

Reinforcement

Following the beacons comes reinforcement. It represents the laying out of reinforcement between. Most often, a special mesh made of thick wire is used. Be sure to bend the edges of the reinforcement downwards. The durability of concrete and the absence of the risk of cracking depend on the quality of the reinforcement.

Solution

Preparation of the solution is the most important stage of concreting. The service life of the concrete coating depends on it. You can't save on anything here. All materials must be of high quality. Otherwise, in a couple of years you will have to repair the yard or re-lay the concrete.

For concrete mortar, you need to take cement and mix it with water in a 1:1 ratio. Then, combine with sand and crushed stone in proportions 1:2. It is very important to stir the solution well; it should be uniform in both consistency and color.

Pouring concrete

The finished solution is spread with a shovel between two beacons.

The concrete should hide them by a few mm.

Additives are an aqueous solution, which means that you need to clearly calculate its dosage, otherwise the thickening time may change. The dosage is usually also indicated on the label.

Heating

Although the water in antifreeze additives is heated, it is still recommended to carry out concreting with additional heating.

This should be done so that when thawing in the warm season, the layer does not come off completely, as can happen when laying concrete on a frozen surface.

Also, if you do not use an additional heat source, the concrete will harden for a very long time.

In some cases, the process takes up to 11-12 months.

However, it is worth taking into account the ambient air temperature.

As it increases, the period of time during which the concrete becomes strong will decrease. Consequently, with the help of artificial heating it is possible to reduce the period even further.

Thus, concreting with additives against low temperatures does not present any great difficulties. You just need to know the features of the action of various types of additives, and for this you just need to read the instructions on the package.

Alternative to antifreeze additives

Of course, it is quite possible to do without purchasing cement additives. When concreting the yard in winter, you can use special high-power transformers.

However, this option is more suitable for construction projects, since for owners of private houses who decide to concrete the yard with their own hands, it will present a number of difficulties.

Also, there is a way to preserve heat using plastic film, but it will only work at temperatures from -3 to +3 degrees. When concrete hardens, it releases heat, which the film prevents from evaporating.

And yet, the optimal one for self-concreting is anti-frost additives. Their use greatly simplifies the work process.

In general, you can arrange a yard in various ways: pave it, lay it with tiles, etc. However, concreting today ranks first in popularity among the rest.

Concrete is much stronger than asphalt, and besides, you don’t have to spend a lot on it. Concrete can serve as a good basis for further finishing with the same tiles - this way the result of the work will be of higher quality.

The strength of polished concrete is shown in the video:

Arrangement of the territory of a private house necessarily includes covering the area in front of the house, parking spaces and garden paths. Landowners often choose concreting for this task.

With a competent approach to the work, concrete pavement in the yard will significantly transform the area and increase the ease of use for many years. It will not be difficult for people who are accustomed to working on the land to understand all the intricacies of the process, which will be discussed further.

The process of pouring concrete is labor-intensive and time-consuming. Especially if we are talking not only about narrow paths between the beds, but also about a large area. The work is made easier with a concrete mixer.

The following stages are distinguished:

• site planning and marking on the ground;
• removing 10-20 cm of soil (depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the coating);
• backfilling a drainage cushion of sand and crushed stone (gravel) with a layer of 5 + 5 cm (if the soil is sandy or the path is sloped, then the thickness of the crushed stone is increased);
• compacting and pouring the sand layer;
• placing curbs or formwork (allows you to raise the covering and protect it from dirt and stagnant water);
• reinforcement with a special mesh or old fittings, metal rods and pipe scraps;

Note! For concreting the site, a reinforcing mesh with cells of 10x10 or 20x20 cm is suitable.

• placing beacons made of metal profiles on frozen concrete slides;
• preparing the solution and pouring;

Note! Suitable for high-quality and durable paths and platforms. The volume ratio of M500 cement, sand and crushed stone for M200 concrete is 1:3.2:4.9. Water is added to the solution gradually until a workable consistency is obtained, on average it is 0.6-0.8 liters per 1 kg of cement.

• leveling the coverage using the beacon rule;
• cleaning of uneven areas a day after the concrete has set
• covering with cellophane to allow the coating to dry slowly so that the concrete gains strength, and in hot weather, moistening is carried out.

To obtain a high-quality and durable coating, each stage is approached responsibly.

For concreting the courtyard of a private house in pedestrian areas, you can also use ready-made plastic forms, but you should not count on lightening and speeding up. The result will be more attractive than a monotonous slab, but it will also take more time.

When pouring into molds, to increase fluidity and plasticity, plasticizers are added to the mixture, which can be a detergent. To speed up the process, hardeners are also added to the mixture. Lubricating the mold with used machine oil will make it easier to separate the hardening cement.

Having studied the stages of the concreting process, you need to familiarize yourself with some nuances and practical recommendations in order to avoid serious mistakes.

• To fill the drainage cushion, use a fine or medium fraction of crushed stone, since it compacts better. The thickness of the bedding must be at least 10 cm.
• The thickness of the mortar for pedestrian passages is 7-10 cm, for the passage of vehicles - 10-20 cm with mandatory reinforcement.
• To prepare the solution, use coarse sand without clay and silty impurities (water does not become cloudy when mixed with sand).
• When mixing components with water, do not leave lumps of sand; the solution must be homogeneous. Therefore, for these purposes it is best to use an electric concrete mixer.
• Don't save too much. Use concrete grade M200 and higher for pouring, as well as high-quality cement for its preparation with a normal shelf life, since expired material loses its properties.
• Concrete platforms and paths must have expansion joints throughout the entire thickness of the coating. Seams allow you to avoid the appearance of cracks and breaks during shrinkage and heaving of the soil in the cold season. Such seams, dividing the surface into separate slabs, are most often made from boards 1-2 cm thick, which also serve as formwork.
• If you need to fill a large area in the form of a monolithic slab, increase the thickness of the bedding and the concrete coating itself and be sure to use good reinforcement. This technology is suitable for slightly heaving soils.

• Large concrete pavements must have an inclined plane for water drainage, so they are not tied to horizontal lines, but are aligned only along two beacons.
• To increase strength and wear resistance, ironing is used - rubbing dry cement into the concrete coating with a spatula after thickening begins. A more modern method with a similar application technology is topping treatment - a dry mixture of a hardener made from cement, a plasticizer, dyes and fixatives. Such reinforcement can only be done for edges and corners where the load is higher.
• Freshly poured concrete should not dry out and receive sufficient moisture. To do this, it is periodically moistened and covered with film or tarpaulin. You can also additionally use special additives.

Interesting options for concreting a site

The concrete coating can look monolithic, or in the form of separate slabs with seams: real or made for decorative purposes.

You can fill a space of any shape with cement mortar. For streamlined curves, formwork made of bendable plastic is used.

Whatever shape the paths take, the surface looks one with the site.

On a new site, when concreting a pedestrian zone, the soil does not need to be removed if it is planned to add imported black soil. The formwork is simply laid out, a layer of pebbles is poured in, and reinforcing rods are laid on top.

Another departure from the rules is the absence of beacons in profile form. Leveling is carried out along the formwork using a wooden block.

Using ready-made forms, you can make a recreation area without removing the soil, right on the lawn. Grass breaking through between the elements will enhance the aesthetic component.

Concrete combines well with other materials. Combining with paving stones removes the dullness and simplicity of the coating, in addition, allowing you to beautifully play up expansion joints.

The areas around individual slabs can also be sprinkled with pebbles. Additional surface treatment erases the idea that the material is cheap.

Only the main path adjacent to the pre-house area can be concreted, and the secondary, narrower garden paths can be made in a different design.

For a house with a garage, concreting the entrance and surrounding area is a necessary element. It is very important to perform this work efficiently, taking into account the increased load on the surface.

Pouring a yard with concrete using a real example

Let's look at one of the options for implementing the idea of ​​concreting paths and yard with step-by-step photos of the entire process.

The owners of the suburban area concreted the yard and the main branch of the path to the garden.

The pouring was carried out in stages in separate sections measuring about 1.5 × 1 m. For this purpose, formwork made of boards was installed.

The top layer of soil was first removed and backfill was made. The thickness of the bedding made of sand and crushed stone is 7-10 cm, the thickness of concrete is 10 cm.

The solution was mixed in a 160 liter concrete mixer. To prepare the mixture, we took 10 liters of cement, 21 liters of sand and 9 shovels of crushed stone (30-35 liters). In terms of proportions, we were guided by the M200 concrete grade, but made with a margin of safety. The water consumption for such a volume, depending on the moisture content of the sand, was 7-9 liters. Detergent was added as a plasticizer.

Before pouring, a reinforcing mesh or metal rods preserved on the farm were laid on a bed of crushed stone.

Since the pouring was carried out in small sections, the installation of beacons was not required; the concrete solution was leveled according to the formwork rule.

Gaps were left between sections for paving stones. This design option looks more interesting and is technologically more practical. The paving stones were laid on the sand.

To gain strength, the concrete must be in a wet state, so after a few hours the poured sections were covered with rags and a tarpaulin, and periodically wetted for 5-7 days.

Video review of the first stage of work:

From the local area, a path was poured to the end of the garden to the outdoor toilet-tower, and nearby a concrete foundation was prepared for the future firewood shed. At this stage, paving slabs were not laid in the space between the sections; they decided not to remove the wooden formwork with the expectation that over time it would rot and the vacated space would be filled with sand or crushed stone.

On our channel you can watch a video report about the work done and learn all the nuances of the process. Don't forget to subscribe! New interesting videos await you ahead.

It is not so complicated that it would be impossible to do it yourself. Carefully read the material presented in this article and you will understand that you are quite capable of pouring concrete into your yard with your own hands, and the result obtained as a result of the work will please the eye for many years.

To the question of what is better for arranging a yard: or concrete, you can answer that concrete is simple and reliable.

Scope of work

In order to fill the yard with concrete, you will need to perform the following steps sequentially:

• excavation;
• installation of a drainage system;
• installation of formwork;
• waterproofing;
• reinforcement;
• installation of beacons;
• pouring concrete;
• processing during concrete hardening.

Each step is important and cannot be skipped. Since it is possible to fill the yard with concrete only if the work technology is fully followed, which will ensure a high-quality, durable and beautiful coating.

The main stages of concreting a path or yard.

Excavation

These works have some specific nuances, since they directly depend on the topography of your site and the type of soil. If the soil in the yard is not fertile and you still have to import black soil, then all excavation work comes down to marking the yard with your own hands, leveling the surface and adding a thin layer of crushed stone.

It is necessary to remove the layer of earth so that the surface of the concrete is at the same level as the surface of the earth, i.e. by 20-25 cm.

And if the base is clay, then you don’t have to add crushed stone. It is best to remove a good fertile layer and transfer it to flower beds and beds, where it will be completely useful.

Drainage device

A drainage system is necessary to remove moisture from concrete, since the presence of water in the soil negatively affects its strength properties. It is a simple two-layer bedding made of crushed stone and sand. Sand is poured first and leveled, in a layer of 5-6 cm.

The sand must be compacted well. To do this, it is best to spill it with water, and then walk over it with a tamper. The tamper can be made from a piece of a wide channel by welding a vertical metal handle with a crossbar to it.

The second layer of crushed stone, 6-8 cm thick, is poured onto the sand and is not compacted, but only leveled. To fill the drainage, it is recommended to use a medium or fine fraction. A large stone will not settle immediately, but may shrink over time. As a result, cracks may appear in the concrete, especially on narrow paths.

After all the excavation work is completed, you can proceed to the main technological process, which begins with the installation of formwork for pouring concrete. It is needed so that the concrete does not spread to the sides, and the edges of the site and paths are smooth.

Construction of a concrete path.

Installation of formwork

As a material for formwork, it is fashionable to use any good flat material that has one smooth side. Such material, for example, could be:

• boards;
• flat slate;
• chipboard (chipboard);
• plywood.

It is very convenient to use sheet plastic to fill curved paths. If your stock of materials does not contain anything similar, you can rent standard metal formwork from any construction organization. This is practiced quite often today.

The structure is installed along the edge of the marked or excavated area, defining the contour of the future concrete structure. Fastening is done with stakes driven in on both sides.
It is allowed to burst the formwork elements located opposite each other in the trench.

Waterproofing

The waterproofing device is necessary in order to prevent the penetration of moisture from the soil into the concrete, as well as to prevent the premature loss of liquid into the soil from the concrete mixture after it is poured. In addition, in the future, the waterproofing layer will prevent grass from growing through the concrete layer.

As an inexpensive waterproofing layer, you can use ordinary polyethylene film. If you have unnecessary roofing felt or waterproofing material, then use this material.

After this stage of work is completed, reinforcement begins. It needs to be done so that the concrete structure becomes stronger and more durable.

To make reinforcing mesh, it is best to use ready-made metal welded mesh. The thickness of the wire in it must be at least 6 mm, and the cell dimensions must be at least 100 mm. It is very convenient to work with such a mesh, laying it in ready-made sheets, overlapping each other.

If you have metal rods with a diameter of more than 8 mm, scraps of old pipes, fittings and similar materials, then you can use them for reinforcement.

All this metal is laid on the surface of crushed stone and tied together with binding wire.

After you finish the reinforcement, you should install the beacons. They will accurately indicate to you the upper level of the site or path when pouring concrete and screeding.

Installation of beacons

As beacons, if we concrete the yard with our own hands, it is best to use a metal profile, which is used for installing drywall. Their cost is quite affordable and they can provide the necessary rigidity without breaking under the pressure of the concrete mass.

To prevent rain and melt water from accumulating on the site and paths, their surface should have a slight slope. This should be taken into account when installing beacons. To do this, they are placed not along, but across the site. First, using a level, install two beacons along the edges, securing them in slides made of cement-sand mortar. Plaster solutions cannot be used to secure beacons.

After the solution has set, stretch 2-3 cords between these two beacons, and install the remaining beacons along them. As a result, they will all be on the same level. On paths, given their small width, beacon slats can be installed lengthwise, two at a time.

Concreting the site and paths

Pouring concrete itself is a fairly simple, but labor-intensive and very responsible process. The appearance of the entire concrete structure and overall quality depend on its precise implementation. Work must be carried out at an outside temperature of 5°C to 25°C.

In order to concrete the yard, you can order the delivery of ready-made concrete, which will significantly reduce the amount of work performed. Or, in order to save money, prepare the concrete mixture yourself.

It should be noted that with a large area of ​​concreting the yard, purchasing ready-made concrete is more preferable and expedient.

If the size of the site is not very large, then the mixture can be prepared independently. To do this you will need:

• mixer-;
• shovel;
• buckets and a wheelbarrow for moving sand, crushed stone and ready-mixed concrete.

Concreting process.

Construction of technological gaps

Before pouring, it is necessary to provide for the construction of technological gaps or expansion joints. They are needed so that when the outside air temperature changes, it is possible to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete.

To do this, it is necessary to install flat strips 2-3 mm thick across the platform and paths. It can be plywood or fiberboard. When the concrete begins to set, they will be pulled out, leaving behind small, even gaps.

Concrete mix and pouring process

Before you concrete your yard, you need to purchase cement. It will depend on its brand. In the case of using cement of the common M400 grade, for each part it is necessary to add 4.2 parts of crushed stone and 2.5 parts of sand.

As a result of mixing the mixture in such proportions, concrete grade M200 is obtained. If you use M500 cement, then add 4.9 parts of crushed stone and 3.2 parts of sand to it. Initially, all components are mixed dry, and after that, water can be gradually added until the mixture is ready for installation.

The finished concrete is thrown with a shovel inside the formwork so that all the voids are filled. Including those lying inside the profiles. The height of the initial laying of the mixture should be 3-5 cm above the level of the beacons. Leveling is carried out using a plaster rule and a level lath, which is gradually stretched along the beacons. As a result, all excess concrete mixture will be removed and the surface will be leveled.

Each path should be filled completely at one time. You can only stop at expansion joints. If you fill part of the path one day and continue the next day, then cracks will appear at the junction of the concrete laid on different days.

If you understand in advance that the work will not be completed in one day, then you can fill it layer by layer. First, half the thickness is poured, and the next day the top layer is poured.

Drying and surface treatment

After pouring concrete, you need to wait until the surface dries and sets. This happens, depending on the temperature and humidity, in about 24-48 hours. After this time, you should remove the inserts that were installed to form thermal joints and clean the surface with a wide spatula from remaining deposits and irregularities.

The setting of concrete does not mean that this material has achieved the calculated physical characteristics. The complete hardening time for concrete grade M200 can reach 28 days, but it is believed that concrete structures can begin to be used within one and a half to two weeks.

As a preventative measure, it is recommended to cover the concrete area and paths with plastic film to reduce the rate of water evaporation.

At this time, it is necessary to take measures to ensure that the concrete does not dry out prematurely, and that the water necessary to complete the chemical process of cement hydration remains in it.

In too hot sunny weather, the site needs to be watered periodically. After two weeks, you can remove the film and finally start using the new elements of landscaping your yard

Finally

As you can see, it is quite possible to do concreting the yard yourself. This work is long and requires a lot of physical strength, but it is quite doable. But the concrete layer, in the end, is no worse in appearance, but much stronger than the asphalt one. The main thing here is to think everything through well, plan it correctly and not violate technology.

Every owner of a private house wants to see his yard cozy, and more than once asked himself the question of what is the best material to use for surface finishing.

If you want to have comfortable paths, a parking space and a cozy gazebo with barbecue, use the most ordinary concrete.

You can use modern tiles, but, unfortunately, they are not affordable for everyone, and it is not a fact that they will last a long time.

Not many owners know how to pour concrete into their yard correctly, so that over time, under snow and rain, the concrete remains in its original form. If you have the finances, you can use the services of professionals, but it will be cheaper to pour concrete yourself, calling family or friends for help.

In a private house, it is necessary to concrete the yard for the following purposes:

• The material is able to create an absolutely equal plane with a solid structure. There will never be a trace left on it from a large one.
• If you decide to concrete your yard, then be sure that various weeds will practically stop growing, there will be less dirt if it rains heavily, and in winter your territory will be easier to clear of snow.
• In terms of price, concrete will be much cheaper than modern tiles, but slightly more expensive than asphalt. Experts do not recommend asphalting - over time the surface collapses.
• The concrete surface in the yard makes it possible to easily install benches, any garden furniture, lanterns or fountains.

A few secrets of concreting

If you decide to independently arrange the yard near your home, then you need to know a few nuances:

• In order to obtain a high-quality solution, it is necessary to use sand with large fractions and a small content of clay impurities. But how can you check the quality of the sand you need? In order to check whether the sand is of high quality or not, you need to take a bucket of water and pour a small amount of sand into it, and shake thoroughly. The water should remain clear after shaking. If the water becomes cloudy, this sand contains a significant amount of clay impurity.
• In order for concrete to be strong, it must be strengthened; experts recommend using the ironing method for this - immersing a small part of the solution on already hardened concrete.
• To protect the concrete surface from the sun's rays and strong temperature overheating (which can lead to cracking), it must be coated with white paint.
• To prevent concrete from absorbing additional moisture, special coatings are used. They contain salts that can absorb moisture from the air.
• To prevent cracks from appearing at the joints over time, the concrete solution must be poured “in one fell swoop”, distributed evenly over the entire plane and in a short period of time.
• To ensure that the edges and coatings are strong, it is recommended to use reinforcing mixtures sold in construction markets and specialized stores. After the mixture has “set”, it is strictly forbidden to water the concrete surface. If this is done, then over time the reinforcing mixture at the corners and edges will peel off.
• At the initial stage of self-concreting, it is necessary to consider a small slope angle. It is necessary for removing precipitation into the ground. At the moment when the solution has almost frozen, it is advised to apply and press down firmly on the pipe. When the solution has completely hardened, the pipes are removed; their imprints will serve as a gutter for removing sediment.

First stage

If you decide to concrete the yard area yourself, then you will certainly be faced with the question - how to fill the yard with concrete? First, you need to plan all your actions step by step and correctly so that the finished space looks aesthetically pleasing and functional.

One of the important stages is preparation, you need to start with it. What to do:

• You need to immediately prepare all the tools and necessary materials that you will need.
• Remove the top layer of soil that contains tree roots and.
• Carefully level the surface.
• Make a "pillow". It is performed using sand and crushed stone.
• A layer of waterproofing must be laid on top of the crushed stone. For this purpose, polyethylene film is used. It will prevent the appearance of weeds and excess moisture.
• Mark the edges of the concrete space and the locations of future flower beds.
• Install the formwork. For this, it is recommended to use wooden boards.

How to properly level and prepare the surface

The second, and also important, stage is preparing the surface of the site. Before you start pouring the solution you need to:

• Remove the surface layer of soil, about ten centimeters, along with the roots of trees growing on the territory.
• Then add crushed stone and sand, this should be done to a thickness of ten to twenty centimeters. The use of crushed stone in the “cushion” can significantly reduce cash costs. If you have soil on your site that does not absorb moisture well, then there is no need to add a “cushion”.
• Thoroughly compact the “pillow”.
• Water it with enough water.
• You can proceed to the construction of formwork. To do this, you need to drive wooden boards into the ground.

Important! Cover the “pillow” with a layer of polyethylene and carefully insulate it with adhesive tape.

The use of polyethylene is very important for several reasons:

• waterproofing function – prevents the surface from rapid cracking and destruction
• barrier function – prevents grass from appearing through the concrete surface
• shutter function - prevents the penetration of moisture from the cement until partial hardening - this prevents the risk of a decrease in strength characteristics

How to properly make a “pillow” and compact it

The use of a “cushion” makes it possible to improve the quality characteristics of the concrete base. Construction experts recommend making it from sand and crushed stone and spreading it over the entire territory in an even layer, the thickness of which should not exceed twenty centimeters.

If there is a need to compact the “cushion”, then it is done using a channel with a handle. The homemade device is immersed in the solution and tamped with “up and down” manipulations.

You can take an easier route - after the sand has been carefully distributed on the surface of the area, water it generously and leave it for some time to shrink on its own. But this will take a little longer than tamping.

This method has one more drawback - high water consumption, which can affect the overall costs of concreting the surface. After the sand has compacted itself, it is necessary to fill it up and distribute crushed stone over the entire area. As a rule, the thickness of crushed stone should not be more than six to seven centimeters.

Self-preparation of formwork

Before proceeding to the final stage, it is necessary to prepare the formwork, it will help give the concrete screed the desired shape. In order to make formwork you can use:

• Slate sheets.
• Plastic panels.
• Wood boards or slabs.

Before you begin setting up the formwork, you need to clean the work surface and distribute the bars at an equal distance, then hammer them in. For a reliable connection for the formwork, you can use self-tapping screws or nails.

The last step before concreting is to make wooden clamps. Their use is recommended to create a structure of additional strength.

At the moment when the solution is poured and dries, strong pressure is exerted on the walls of the formwork, which can destroy it and the concrete can be deformed.

The last stage is concreting the area

After all the preparatory stages have been completed, you can move on to the most important thing - directly to concreting. But it, in turn, consists of several steps:

• Correct placement of beacons.
• Reinforcement of a concrete surface.
• Preparing the solution before pouring.
• Pouring the finished product.
• Final surface treatment.

Now let's look at all the steps in detail.

Correct placement of beacons

In order to do this step correctly, an absolutely flat area of ​​the territory is very important. To achieve the most even plane, it is necessary to use a horizontal level and do this at the stage of laying the “pillow”.

Beacons need to be placed throughout the entire area that will be filled with concrete. The following can be used as beacons:

• pieces of galvanized profile as stakes
• rope carefully connected to each other and stakes

Builders call this method “spider”.

Reinforcement of concrete surface

After the beacons have been placed, it is necessary to lay a reinforced structure between them. It can be made in the form of a metal mesh; it is recommended to use thicker wire for this.

If you don’t want your concrete surface to become covered with cracks after a while, you must use reinforcement!

Preparation of concrete solution

This step must be approached with all responsibility; it determines how long your territory will look beautiful and cozy. By the way, in order for the surface to be durable, do not spare money; purchase high-grade cement.

To prepare the mixture you need the following components (in equal parts):

• One part water.
• The same amount of sand.
• You will need twice as much crushed stone.

Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. An important nuance in preparation is to stir the solution until it is homogeneous and there should be no lumps. When thoroughly mixed, its color will be uniform.

Pouring the solution

The prepared mixture must be spread onto the surface using a shovel. This should be done in the intervals between prepared beacons.

Important! Concrete should be laid on the surface in such a way as to hide the top of the lighthouse by two to three (no more) millimeters.

If the need arises, you can remove the excess amount of mortar using a spatula or a long wooden slat. To do this, you need to fix the rail perpendicular to the beacons and stretch the solution to them, so the surface will become as smooth as possible.

Using rotational-translational movements, first to the left, then to the right, pull the excess cement towards you. Manipulations can be repeated several times to achieve the desired result.

Important! If the solution is mixed poorly, its tightening will be difficult. Due to poorly mixed sand, there will be tubercles and lumps, which will negatively affect the external aesthetic appearance.

To prevent this from happening, try to find (or purchase) a concrete mixer; it will thoroughly mix the concrete and aesthetic problems can be avoided.

After you distribute one batch over the surface, start making another. Alternate fresh concrete with pouring until the entire yard is completely concreted.

Wait a little time for the solution to dry completely, and you can walk on it. The last step is to clean it so that the entire concrete surface looks uniform, without bumps or irregularities. For this manipulation, use a spatula or regular white one.

Finishing of the finished surface

The very last, final stage will be coating the hardened concrete with special impregnations. To give concrete additional strength, experienced builders recommend using a polymer cement coating. It is especially important to do this along the edges and corners.

The concrete surface at the edges and corners should be treated with this composition immediately after the concrete has been distributed over the entire area of ​​the yard. The polymer cement composition is poured onto the corners and edges. After the concrete has completely dried, the surface is cleaned.

What care does the hardened surface need?

The concrete surface does not require special care. There is only one caveat, it consists in watering the yard area with water - this is necessary to provide the concrete surface with moisture to avoid cracking.

Although, at first glance, it hardens quickly, optimal results occur after thirty days. In the first three to four days, experts do not recommend walking on the surface.

Now you know exactly how to pour concrete in your yard beautifully and efficiently, and you can do it yourself without spending a lot of money.

Learn more about concreting the yard in the video: