Cesspool and septic tank for a summer residence with your own hands. We make a cesspool from a barrel - from selection to installation Cesspool of a plastic barrel with our hands

It is not enough to bring water into the house, after use it needs to be put somewhere. It’s hard to take out buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: water comes into the house by itself, and then it is taken out on foot. At least elementary sewerage is needed for a house or a summer residence. The option to simply remove the pipe from the house and drain the water to the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or pit is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably PVC 110mm), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium fraction crushed stone, a shovel and a few hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from a well or well and downstream of them downstream of groundwater. We dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (preferably deeper). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if metal, then with a grinder, if plastic, then with a hacksaw for wood with a small tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, not far from the bottom of the barrel. We fill at least 20 cm of gravel at the bottom of the pit and put the barrel upside down, orienting the hole under the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, leading it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation, or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe, the water flowing through it will warm it perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we put a tee with a small piece of pipe coming out above the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and let air out of the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We lead the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with gravel to the entire height of the barrel. At the bottom of the barrel, it is advisable to put some non-rotting material (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the pit with soil, carefully tamping it down. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally leading the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel, you can put on a plastic fungus, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer for the house, it will not cope with fecal effluents, it cannot be cleaned or serviced in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or from the bath. The same device has drainage wells from a septic tank.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: the depth of soil freezing + the height of the barrel + the height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2m + 0.9m + 0.2m = 2.3m). But digging so deep is hard and not necessary. Drains also heat the barrel.

If the soil at the installation site of the sewer is clayey, and the water from the barrel leaves slowly, then the sewer for the house can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer, and preferably a drainage pipe. This pipe may lead water to a drainage ditch at the boundary of the site, or it may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The task of this pipe is to remove excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone pillow and is also covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be spoiled with a certain number of holes in the lower part to improve the flow of water, making it look like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is led into a drainage ditch.

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1. To be honest, I'm a little surprised that someone's sewer can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there ...

Reviews (38) on "The simplest drainage sewage system for a summer residence."

thanks for the useful article and adequate answers. tomorrow I’ll start doing it. I hope the pipe will not freeze in our Transbaikalia. Of course, I agree with you that you need to make a significant slope.

1. Depends on the distance and features of the problem being solved. It is better to make the 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances up to 5 (five) meters, you can make the 50th (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as more durable and frost-resistant. This is still an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. And what can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up.-get fat-zamylitsya? Or will it crash hard?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or gray (for internal wiring), since it will be used only in summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) -PVD -high pressure polyethylene. What do you say?
3. I have a plot with a slope. Along the fence just down the slope. I realized that it is better to dig in.
4. Soil - loam. And where does rainwater usually go from the roof? To another hole?

1. Answers Vladimir.
   1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loam, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general ... If it doesn’t break.
   This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, subject to the elementary laying rules.
   2. For "internal wiring" it will definitely not work. We need PVC for outdoor sewage. For internal sewage, PP is usually used. You won't dig it up for the winter...
   A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a PVD pipe (I haven’t heard anything about PVD pipes until now, maybe I don’t have enough experience). In principle, you can do it, if you find it, only there may be problems with joining pipes with bends (turns) and leaving the house. If you are not a "specialist", then it is better not to experiment.
   4. Rain runoff is usually directed to the drainage system around the house, and it brings them to the drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - "drainage", corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
   In loamy soil for house drains, it is imperative to make at least a small irrigation field (a small drainage system is just for this). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on arrivals”, then the usual crushed stone dressing around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

   Of course, you can bring rainwater into this sewer system, but ... Then there will be a high probability of damage to the pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe already with ice) of these waters. Therefore, they make drainage pipes perforated, i.e. "leaky" so that the water can go away by itself. And if we lay drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt up and get fat”), and will not work. This is not to mention possible unpleasant odors along all 20 meters of the pipe. So it is better to sewer separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60 cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I will just make holes in the side of the log house and then go on with external wiring. Accordingly, I do not want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go along the ground.
And how to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 along the outer wall of the house? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

1. I didn't quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house, you put in fifty kopecks for the inside, i.e. PP pipe. You let her out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “foam” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then the transition to the 110th PVC, and you are already driving it. From the exit from the log house to the 110th PVC, you can start up the same fifty kopecks, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say without imagining a possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And I went 110th.
   In principle, it is permissible to put fifty kopecks on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is desirable that this is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and you need to fasten it well and carefully, making gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty PVC PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you have to look.
   And the general advice, just in case, is to avoid right angles. Make them, if necessary, prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, and inserts between them. Right angles clog well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you got it right. It's just that not a single seller in stores (he went around about five) did not meet PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of the 110 pipe, I need to walk five fifty meters along the wall (check in the garage from below). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were laid earlier in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing on drain tanks suspended overhead.

1. No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely low-pressure polyethylene, it’s just that the dye was different. Look in specialized stores, at construction sites, where professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes are sold, without sockets. I'll show you how to connect them, it's not difficult. The Internet has tips for everything. Look in the store at: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, All Instruments store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. In extreme cases, you can also put 50 mm internal PP pipes, you just need to look after them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I will definitely check out their website.
Just a passing question: I will finally find a fifty-kopeck piece of PVC pipe. But all sorts of turns and stuff also need PVC? This is probably unrealistic. I'll look online and on their website.
Thanks again for your attention.

1. Hello again, Vladimir.
   I ask your forgiveness. Having “surfed” the Internet in search of a fifty-kopeck piece of PVC, I really discovered that these pipes are only in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, put fifty dollars on PP, just look not for standard-cheap PP 1.8 mm, but 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, in non-responsible sections of the sewerage system, a fifty-kopeck piece of PP is installed without thinking about the consequences. You just have to keep an eye on this site, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the summer season.
   The PVC I found in Ufa is hardly suitable, they are for protecting electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer (!), Is a mystery to me. So do from home to the fence fifty dollars of PP. This is not possible, but if it is very necessary, then ...

Thank you for this article for the tips. I just had a situation that I bought myself a multistage pump. The plumber came and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork, no where not dug. When I got tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. And if I had a water outlet, then this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

The device of a cesspool from a barrel. Advantages and disadvantages of drives made of plastic and metal containers. Technology for the construction of a sump from tanks.

Features of the design of a cesspool from a barrel

Living in a country house or in a private house in a rural area involves the use of an autonomous sewer system for the disposal of household waste. To collect sewage, a design of barrels and sewer pipes is often used.

There are several types of such drives. Their differences are shown in the table:

Type of waste pit	Advantages	disadvantages	Application
Sealed	Does not pollute the soil	Requires periodic cleaning	Any place
without bottom	Increases the period between cleaning	Pollutes the site	Areas with low groundwater levels
From multiple tanks	Improved wastewater treatment	Uncomfortable to download content	Loose soils

Sealed tank has advantages over a pit without a bottom - sewage does not pollute the garden plot. For such purposes, one-piece factory-made plastic or metal tanks are often used, which are designed to collect wastewater. They have the qualities characteristic of settling tanks - strength and tightness.

Drain hole from a barrel without a bottom cannot be called a reservoir, because part of the liquid seeps through the soil. Usually it is made of metal products, for which holes are drilled in the walls.

Over time, the drain pit from the barrel fills up, and you have to call a sewage machine to clean it. It has a tank and a vacuum pump, with which the contents are freed from dirt.

Such small sedimentation tanks are used in summer cottages or country houses, where the owners occasionally come. Drainage pits from barrels are suitable for a family of 1-2 people.

The volume of the tank is calculated depending on the number of people living in the house and water consumption points. Water consumption for each person is very individual. Without a washing machine, a washing unit and a bathroom, it can reach 0.5 m 3 per month.

Before you make a cesspool from a barrel, calculate its volume. Suppose 1 person has 100 liters of water per day. A family of 3 people will spend 9000 liters per month. If you plan to call a sewage truck once a month, the volume of the tank must be more than 9 m 3.

To create a drain pit, it is allowed to use several barrels of small sizes, but it is convenient to pump out sewage from one, but large. The shape of the barrel can be any - round, square, rectangular.

If you have a choice, buy plastic products that are designed for sewer systems. They are made from polyethylene, polypropylene and PVC.

The use of metal barrels for the construction of a cesspool is not welcome and is forced. Usually they are used if there are no ready-made plastic containers on sale.

Metal tanks that were used to store or transport fuels and lubricants are suitable for a drain pit. These are 200 l containers for the transportation of chemical liquids by rail. Their wall thickness is 16 mm.

Cesspools made of metal barrels are inferior in many respects to structures made of plastic barrels:

• They are subject to corrosion and serve only 4-5 years.
• These tanks are expensive.
• Products are heavier than plastic, which can complicate the process of their installation. A crane is required for installation.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool from a plastic barrel

Waste pits made from plastic barrels have a number of advantages over storage tanks made from other materials.

Due to the properties of this material, sedimentation tanks acquire the following advantages:

1. The product is sealed, which will not allow sewage to enter the site.
2. Plastic structures do not have welds, therefore they do not leak, which ensures high environmental safety at the site. Untreated sewage is dangerous due to the presence of microorganisms in them, which penetrate the soil undecomposed. They can pollute not only the site, but also water and plants.
3. A do-it-yourself drain pit from a barrel allows you to save money for other work.
4. The structure is built quickly due to the low weight of the tank.
5. Factory-made products are equipped with a hatch for pumping out the contents and inspecting the drive and devices for connecting to the sewer, which reduces the time for their arrangement.
6. The container does not need to be sealed, so you can not buy bitumen or other waterproofing agents.
7. The cesspool has a long service life - up to 50 years.
8. The walls of the drive do not rot and are not affected by the fungus. The material is not destroyed by the action of acids and alkalis, which are contained in groundwater.
9. There are a huge number of barrels of various shapes and sizes, which allows you to choose a product for each specific case.
10. Tanks are suitable for any type of soil, because. contents are not spilled onto the area.
11. They are easy to maintain during operation.

Of the minuses of a cesspool from a plastic barrel, one can note the loss of strength of the product in severe frosts. Trouble can happen if the tank is buried to a shallow depth and is not insulated.

How to make a drain hole from a barrel?

The work on the construction of a cesspool from a barrel takes place in several stages. First you need to choose a place for the drive. According to SNiPs, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 5 m from the house and at least 2 m from the fence.

The most time-consuming and difficult is the digging of a pit of the desired size and geometry. Its depth should not exceed 3 m, so that it is convenient to pump out the contents with a sewage machine. On the other hand, the dimensions of the pit should be such that the neck of the tank protrudes 250-300 mm above the ground. Make the width 0.3 m larger than the tank for the convenience of backfilling the finished product.

In sandy soil, after removing the soil, it will be necessary to strengthen the walls with wooden shields. Do not take the earth out of the pit far, it will be needed to fill the cracks and to pour on top of the structure. It is easier to dig a large pit with a mini excavator, but in this case there is a danger of damage to summer cottages. Make the pit the same shape as the barrel.

After digging the pit, do the following:

• Finish the walls and corners of the pit by hand.
• Align the bottom and check its horizontalness.
• If the soil is sandy, lay a concrete slab on the bottom or fill it with concrete mortar.
• The base of the drain pit from the barrel can not be filled with a screed, but covered with a mixture of sand and gravel. From above, create a thick pillow of coarse sand.
• Install the drive into the prepared pit manually or by any lifting mechanism and place it in the middle of the pit.
• Check the protrusion of the neck above the ground.
• Mark on the ground the location of the receiving flange to which the sewer pipe from the house will be connected. Make sure that the hatch in the barrel is located opposite the road for the entrance of the sewer truck.
• Check the tightness of the opening of the hatch. If there are no gaps, it is necessary to create ventilation of the container. To do this, you need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. To install it, make a hole in the tank. Install the pipe in the opening and secure in any way. It should protrude 1.5 m above the ground. Such a precaution will get rid of methane, which is released during the decomposition of organic matter. If the barrel is sealed, the container may explode.
• Remove the tank from the pit.
• Dig a trench from the house to the mark near the hole. Its depth should be at least 0.5 mm so that the drains do not freeze in winter. It is recommended to dig a hole 20-30 cm below the freezing level of the soil in the area.
• If you are making a drain hole for a bath from a barrel, connect the pipes from the steam room and shower with a tee, to which you fix the cut leading to the sump. To inspect the sewer system, a manhole must be provided in the dressing room.
• Place sewer pipes in the hole. Ensure that they slope towards the pit 1.5-2 cm per meter.
• If the barrel is metal, waterproof it. Coat the outside of the container with polymer coating grease. It is well applied to the surface of any shape. Treat the inside with liquid waterproofing - nitro paint. It is also possible to use injection materials, for example, three-component compositions based on polyurethane resins. They have good adhesion and adhere to any surface. The negative side of such a substance is its toxicity.
• Install the barrel in the pit and turn it around so that it is convenient to connect it to the sewer pipe.
• Using the special fitting supplied with the product, connect the sewer pipe to the storage tank. If there are no special flanges on the body, cut a hole of the appropriate size in the wall.
• If the groundwater is shallow, the barrel must be anchored so that it does not float during floods or heavy rains. To do this, use polymer cables that are tied to the product and to hooks driven deep into the ground or concrete slab.
• Fill all gaps between the container and the walls of the pit with sand. To stabilize the soil pressure on the walls, add dry cement to it. Fill gaps in layers to make it easier to compact the mixture. After drying, a strong ring is formed around the barrel, which will protect the drive from seasonal soil movements.
• Fill the trench above the sewer pipes with soil. Do not compact the ground above them.
• Fill the tank with earth from above and decorate the site. The easiest option is to plant a flower bed over the tank.
• Prepare the road to the barrel for the sewage truck.

Water from barrels can not be taken out, but drained through an underground filtration system. In this case, the effluents undergo preliminary treatment, and then they are distributed through pipes throughout the territory at a depth of 1-1.5 m, but not less than 1 m from groundwater. This method has a number of disadvantages associated with a significant amount of work performed, high costs for building materials and the complexity of installation work.

After the construction of a cesspool for giving from a barrel is completed, it is recommended to add special substances to the container that accelerate the processing of organic matter in wastewater. The sewer flows entering the reservoir are separated into liquid and solid fractions. Insoluble fragments (toilet paper, cleaning products, household waste) fall to the bottom, soon a solid sediment forms on it, which quickly fills the tank. It must be removed mechanically. If you do not pay attention to the drain pit for a long time, an unpleasant smell appears next to it and in the house. In addition, dense silt is formed at the bottom, which is difficult to remove with a sewage machine. To prevent the garbage from compacting, microorganisms that feed on organic matter are periodically added to the barrel. They quickly process and decompose paper, fats, fruit and vegetable particles, etc. As a result, a gas and a semi-liquid mass is formed, which is easy to pump out with a pump.

Preparations for drain pits are a complex of enzymes and bacteria. They are sold in dry or liquid form. To activate the bacteria, they must be filled with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions for the product.

How to make a cesspool from a barrel - look at the video:

Septic tanks without a bottom are beneficial in terms of installation, but have a small volume, which can cause some inconvenience. A barrel pit latrine is an easy way to get sewage out of your home without hiring professional plumbing companies.

How to choose a barrel

A cesspool from a barrel is a container in the ground to which outlets from a house, a summer shower, gazebos, etc. are connected. It has a normalized volume, which is selected based on the number of people living in the house, and a closed bottom. When the tank is full, you need to call a sewage machine, or install a suitable fecal pump in the tank.

Barrels are classified according to the material from which they are made and according to their shape.

According to the material they are:

1. metal;
2. Plastic.

Metal are known for their durability. They perfectly keep their shape and do not give in to deformations under the influence of pressure of earth masses. But they are very susceptible to corrosion. Constant exposure to an aggressive environment adversely affects the strength characteristics. Such tanks wear out quickly, the bottom cracks under the pressure of the drains.

Advantages of using metal containers:

1. Reliability. They will not change shape even with prolonged use and do not need a protective casing;
2. Tightness (with proper processing of the outer and inner parts of the structure.

Of the shortcomings, it is necessary to highlight:

1. High cost;
2. Difficulty in installation. Metal tanks often weigh more than a hundredweight, so they will be difficult to install without the help of lifting mechanisms;
3. Susceptibility to corrosive processes.

Plastic barrels are more practical due to their durability and resistance to negative factors. Polymer structures are characterized by a long service life - more than 40 years, high flexibility. If, under high pressure, the metal tank simply cracks, then the plastic is somewhat deformed to overcome the impact.

Advantages of using a plastic container in the form of a cesspool tank:

1. Ease of installation. The plastic is very light, it is easily mounted by hand, without the use of lifting mechanisms;
2. Durability. Polymer particles are not susceptible to the aggressive effects of feces, are not subject to corrosion and have a high wear threshold;
3. Availability. A large plastic barrel will cost much less than a stone or concrete drain.

But this design also has certain disadvantages:

1. Plastic is subject to deformation. Under the influence of earthen masses, the barrel can change its shape, decrease in volume or even crack. Therefore, experts recommend strengthening the walls of the hole in the soil with a metal frame before installation;
2. Sensitivity to temperature changes. From exposure to low temperatures, the plastic becomes very brittle. The ground part of the barrel can completely crack during the winter, so it is important to insulate it.

According to the shape of the barrels for cesspools, there are:

1. Single chamber. They consist of one container, to which all the pipes from the house are connected. Need regular cleaning and pumping;
2. Double or more. They consist of several interconnected reservoirs. They can self-clean due to the natural movement of water. At the joints, special filters (biological or mechanical) are often installed that help separate liquid and solid waste. In most cases, water flows from them into a kind of settling tanks, from where it is used as technical water (for watering plants, fertilizer, etc.).

They can also be vertical and horizontal.

Related video:

Not unimportant role is played by the required volume of capacity. If you correctly calculate the size of the cesspool from the barrel, then you can reduce the cost of sewage services and significantly increase the efficiency of sewage.

The barrel volume is calculated using the following formula:

The number of drains (per 1 adult) * 30 (days, if desired, you can take a larger indicator).

How to install

Before starting work, a layout of the barrel and its calculation are drawn up. According to the requirements of SNiP, a closed-type cesspool should be located at a distance of up to 30 meters from the facade of the house and more than 40 from the nearest body of water (whether it be a well or a lake). After that, a plan is developed for branching pipes from the house.

They should be at a slight slope relative to the source. On average, from 2 to 4 centimeters is taken per 1 linear meter. This will protect the sewer system from stagnation.

After the pit is prepared. Rules for preparing a pit for installing a plastic sealed barrel:

After that, a barrel is installed in the cesspool. Its installation is carried out in an empty form, so that it is more convenient to level the tank. The level of capacity must be regulated by special devices.

When the process of installation and connection of taps is completed, it is necessary to seal the walls of the pit. There should be no gaps between the barrel and the ground, otherwise deformation is almost inevitable. To fill these gaps, the tank is filled to the top with water. Only then does the filling process begin. Only sections of the barrel are left open for installing a hatch or ventilation (if the tank is horizontal or completely closed).

On average, a closed cesspool from a metal or plastic barrel requires cleaning no earlier than 60 days (although a lot depends on the correct calculation of its volume). If you do not want to deal with frequent pumping, then it is more practical to install a structure consisting of several chambers.

Can be a problem if you don't use your ingenuity. Modern technologies provide the owner of a private house with a wide choice of options from different materials.

Since on average one to three cubic meters of water is used per day, a barrel cesspool becomes one of the profitable options.

Airtight pit device

The whole system looks simple and easy to install. The sewerage wiring around the house is led into a barrel, dug no closer than 5-6 m. All drains are collected in the pit, it is very convenient to pump out with a sewer machine, especially if the distance from the fence is no more than 2 m.

You need to dig in a barrel no deeper than 7 m. Otherwise, the pumping hose will not be able to pick up all the slurry and will only collect liquid from the surface. When calculating the location of the tank, it is necessary to take into account the features of the terrain. If the house is in a lowland, there is a high probability that after heavy rainfall, water will accumulate in large quantities. It is recommended to use large barrels, since light containers can be forced to the surface by heaving soil and soil water from the pit.

If the family has more than two people, it is worth thinking about organizing an overflow type drain pit. The design consists of two successively located barrels. The containers are located one slightly higher than the other. The connection is provided by a built-in additional pipe. The liquid is pumped out individually from each barrel.

In both options, the barrel must be installed, providing easy access to the vacuum truck. When sealing the barrel opening, it is necessary to leave a Ø100 mm ventilation hole for the vent pipe. During the decomposition of organic waste (faecal matter) of sewage, a large amount of methane is formed. To remove it effectively, the pipe must rise half a meter from the soil level. If there is no gas outlet, the barrel will explode.

The blind area around the barrel lid remains a controversial issue. Some sources do not recommend pouring concrete around the hole. Since when the soil subsides, the concrete circle can begin to put pressure on the upper part of the container and thereby damage its tightness.

Cesspool options

The choice of the buyer is given two types of barrels - iron and polymer.

Pros and cons of an iron barrel

Metal barrels have high strength, impressive weight. It should be borne in mind that the metal does not tolerate constant moisture. Without sufficient treatment, corrosion will eat away at a steel pit sump in 3-4 years. For its installation, it is necessary to attract lifting equipment.

To avoid metal decay (corrosion), before installing an iron barrel for sewage, it is worth performing a number of waterproofing works:

1. For outdoor use, polymer coating waterproofing can be used. It is good because, due to its plasticity, it can be applied to any surface shape.
2. The inner surface should be treated with liquid application materials. In some cases, summer residents use nitro paint, but this method is inferior to processing with factory materials.

Among other waterproofing methods, domestic manufacturers offer injection materials. These are two or three-component compositions based on polyurethane resin. Their advantages include good adhesion (adhesion) of materials to the surface of the barrel, good water-repellent characteristics and strength of the material itself. By cons - the high toxicity of the components.

In order to treat the barrel with an elastic injection material, additional protection must be taken into account.

For more competent handling of resins, it is desirable to have special skills in handling such insulation.

Advantages of a polymer barrel

Plastic barrels for drain pits are easy to operate. They are already equipped with an air vent, a convenient manhole cover, holes for mounting PVC sewer pipes and much more. In addition, unlike iron ones, they are light in weight and do not require the involvement of additional equipment during installation.

The material of the barrel is not exposed to external influence of acids and alkalis of soil water, which solves the problem of its replacement. A huge number of shapes and volumes by displacement allows you to choose the PVC sewer container you need for your needs. Its inner surface is resistant to aggressive environments.

When laying the project of a sealed drain pit, it is worth considering that a closed system is more profitable, since wastewater does not enter the ground and does not cause environmental pollution.

The accumulated sewage can create underground mudflow cushions and destroy the foundations of nearby buildings. In this case, the only disadvantage of a closed sewer pit will be the constant pumping of slurry. But if you take into account all the pluses, it is easy to come to terms with this fact.

Living in a private house assumes the presence of an autonomous sewage system. It consists of internal wiring, external piping and storage (or VOC). For residents of holiday villages or houses of temporary (seasonal) residence, a cesspool remains relevant as the best way to collect and partially process waste.

We will tell independent home craftsmen how a cesspool is built from a barrel. This is an extremely simple option that requires a minimum of funds in construction. Taking into account our recommendations, you can easily arrange an autonomous sewage system with a cesspool.

Previously, the word "septic tank" was unknown, and the cesspool played the role of the only possible place for collecting waste.

Structurally, all cesspools were similar, the difference concerned the presence or absence of any capacity. Often, an ordinary hole was dug in the ground, and a wooden “birdhouse” house was built above it. Such outdoor toilets can still be found in old summer cottages.

The modern version of the toilet, which is located "in the yard" - a beautiful house, neatly painted and decorated with flowers. A sewer tank with a neck for pumping is buried under it.

A pit without a sealed container is an environmental threat to a garden plot. If the owners of the house are interested in the purity of the soil and water, they must place a reservoir in the cesspool.

Previously, it was made of boards or bricks, now it is made of concrete rings or monolithic concrete. Often used and barrels, metal or plastic, specially designed for arranging sewers.

Even a large sealed reservoir made of modified plastic is just a reservoir that fills up quickly and needs to be pumped out regularly. It is for this reason that cesspools are absolutely not suitable for family cottages.

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