DIY clothes hanger. Wall hanger for the hallway: buy or make it yourself

Can be easily done with your own hands. It is quite often used not only in residential apartments and houses, but also in offices. Of course, such an item can be purchased at a relevant store, but quite often the cost of a hanger is high and not all models are suitable in color and size. This item is an excellent solution for a hallway that does not have enough free space. Such designs, which can be purchased in a store, most often have two sides for easy access (out of four). The coat hanger-hook does not have such shortcomings; purchasing and fixing it is as easy as shelling pears. Often, in its manufacture, accessible hooks are used, which are located as close as possible, this subsequently makes it difficult to access the other sides. Ultimately, the floor hanger ends up loaded on one side, which quite often causes it to fall. This is due to the fact that the structure has a too high center of gravity. You may have noticed that not all hangers have hooks for hats and bags. That is why you can come up with your own design, taking into account all the shortcomings of factory products.

Preparation of materials and tools

The floor hanger can be made by any novice craftsman. However, initially it is necessary to prepare a set of tools and materials, among them: self-tapping screws, laminated chipboard, a rotating mechanism, confirmations, a jigsaw, and an edge.

Design features

So, your choice is a floor clothes hanger. By making it yourself, you can save money, because the models presented in stores are quite expensive. However, before starting production, you need to develop a design design, and you should take into account the problems that were described above. This will allow you to get a hanger that will be distinguished by functionality and ease of use. The base of the product will be hollow parallelepipeds, which must be installed on a rotary type base. It has two planes. The rotating mechanism must be located between the supporting bases, which are located below. You can purchase accessories in a specialized store. The mechanism must have bearings that will ensure rotation under a load weighing up to 110 kilograms. The supporting base in the upper plane can be rounded; a jigsaw is used for this.

Preparing parts

If you are making a floor, you will need to initially prepare the parts. The structure is assembled using laminated chipboard, the thickness of the material should be 16 millimeters. The color is selected depending on the features of the interior and other pieces of furniture that are in the hallway. When preparing parts, it is important to maintain right angles, so experts advise ordering the cutting of elements from professionals, but you can do the gluing of the edges yourself.

Edging

Before you make a clothes hanger, you should learn about how edge gluing is done. It has an adhesive base and can be melamine. Its thickness is 0.5 mm or less. The edge is applied to the end of the element, with the adhesive base facing down. Then it is ironed with an iron, which should not be heated. Until the edge has cooled down, it is smoothed using a dry rag. At the next stage, the edges are processed; excess edges will need to be removed using sandpaper and a sharp knife.

Workpiece dimensions

In order to get a clothes hanger on wheels, you will need to prepare a square bottom base with a side of 560 millimeters. The top base should have a side equivalent to 380 millimeters. The side elements of the lower part are made in quantities of 2 pieces, the dimensions of each should be 600x300 millimeters. All other parts are made in the amount of 2 pieces, this applies to the internal side elements that will make up the lower part. The dimensions of each given workpiece must be 600x267 millimeters. The upper and lower parts will have a square shape with a side of 267 mm. Similar parts are made with a square side of 167 millimeters.

The side elements should have dimensions equal to 1200x200 millimeters. The side inner parts of the top have dimensions that are 1200x167 millimeters.

Carrying out the assembly

You can purchase a metal clothes hanger in a store - this is easier to do than making it yourself. But if you decide to make your own floor structure from wood, then for assembly you need to use confirmations with dimensions of 50x70 millimeters. For them, holes located at the ends are pre-prepared. To do this, use a 5 mm drill. The depth of the holes should be 60 millimeters. Holes in the plane must have a depth equivalent to 8 millimeters. They need to be done through and through. There is no need to be afraid that the fastener heads will be visible - later they can be hidden using plugs. You can also make a wall-mounted clothes hanger with your own hands. To do this, you need to prepare a laminated chipboard strip, several hooks and fasteners. All these components are connected to each other, and then the structure is hung on the wall. In the case of a floor structure, everything is different. The hanger will rotate due to the presence of a rotating mechanism; it is fixed with 4x16 mm self-tapping screws.

The rotating mechanism has a one-piece design, and it is attached to the base by creating technological holes 10 millimeters deep. Initially, markings have to be made. After the hanger is assembled, the fasteners will be hidden by the top plane. The hanger can be equipped with different hooks. Thus, the top ones may be longer, allowing them to be used for hats. The middle ones are intended for children's clothing, but as for the lower ones, bags can be placed on them. The structure is stable due to the fact that the center of gravity moves closer to the floor surface.

Alternative option

A wall-mounted clothes hanger in the hallway can also be made by you. To do this, you need to prepare a board, timber, and hooks. The board must have the following sections: 25x150, 50x100, and 25x80 millimeters. As for the timber, it must have a square cross-section with a side of 100 millimeters. The base will be a beam, which is marked taking into account the required length and cut off. If the hanger is not wall-mounted, but floor-mounted, then legs should be attached to it. The structure must be processed with sandpaper. If legs are provided, they must have a length of 350 millimeters. The legs on one side are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, which will add aesthetics. There should be supports at their edges that are fixed. These additional blanks are cut from a board whose cross-section is 25x80 millimeters.

The legs can be strengthened with elements 330 millimeters long. These blanks are made from 50x100 mm boards. There should be four of them. When making a wall-mounted clothes hanger for the hallway, the upper part can be made more elegant by decorating it with decor, which is made from a 5-centimeter board. The lumber is used to cut a square, which is screwed to the top of the base using two screws. The workpiece is strengthened with the help of fittings, however, if you want to make a decorative element yourself, then it should be deprived of fasteners for screwing. In this case, the workpiece is glued using carpentry compound.

Final works

When making clothes hangers for a closet, it is important to ensure high-quality fasteners. Quite often, not only the mechanical, but also the adhesive method is used. In the latter case, both surfaces should be lubricated. After this, the structure is left until the composition has completely dried and only then can it be treated with varnish or stain. The mixture is applied in several layers, between each of which the product should be left until completely dry. Afterwards the surface is treated with sandpaper. Before applying the next layer, the surface must be wiped with a damp cloth. In the process of making clothes hangers for a closet, the above technology can be used. However, no matter what design you choose, if it is based on wood, all corners must be cleaned, and the same applies to the ends of the structure. This can be done between applying layers, then the surface will acquire the effect of antiquity.

Clothes hangers are a must-have attribute in every home, as otherwise arranging outerwear is quite problematic. In addition, floor hangers are also useful in the bedroom, so as not to put clothes in the closet every night and not to use chairs or armchairs. But beautiful furniture in the store is quite expensive, so the best solution is a DIY floor clothes hanger. After all, from inexpensive materials you can make original and beautiful hangers that will significantly decorate and make your interior comfortable.

You can make a clothes hanger from almost any material. But if you are going to do it yourself, you should approach the choice of material carefully.

Wood and plywood are best suited for work; these are the most practical and flexible materials that are easy to work with. If products made from them are used in the home, they are guaranteed not to be exposed to moisture and their service life will increase significantly.

Working with metal or plastic at home is quite difficult, so you should not choose these materials. It is worth considering the fact that sometimes a significant load is placed on the hanger, so you need to use materials of appropriate strength so that the furniture does not break.

Examples of floor hangers using metal water pipes

When you buy wood or plywood, pay attention to their quality, because this is the key to making the hanger look beautiful. In most cases, wood products are coated only with stain or varnish, so the texture remains visible on the surface.

Floor hanger in the form of a tree

Making a floor hanger is easy and doesn't require many tools or materials. This hanger is made of two sheets of plywood, approximately 70x170 cm in size, and 18 mm thick. To make it you only need glue, a jigsaw and sandpaper. The work itself will also not take much time and you will not find such hangers in any furniture store.

First you need to draw the outline of the future product on one of the sheets of plywood. This can be done simply by transferring a drawing to scale onto plywood. The most important thing is that the legs are of sufficient width - about 60 centimeters. This is necessary for stability, since if you make them narrow, the hanger will fall if you hang heavy winter clothes on it.

In order not to draw a picture on the second sheet of plywood, before you start cutting, you need to simply fasten the two sheets of plywood together using self-tapping screws or clamps. It's best to use clamps, moving them as you cut the plywood. Make sure that the sheets do not move and that both blanks are the same.

To connect the blanks and turn them into a hanger, you need to make two slits. On one workpiece you need to make a slot to the middle from the top, and on the second from the bottom. The width of the slot should correspond to the thickness of the plywood.

Both slots on the inside need to be well treated with glue, and then put the blanks on one another. As a result, you will have an original and beautiful floor clothes hanger, which only needs to be sanded and painted.

As you can see, making a floor hanger with your own hands is not a difficult task even for a beginner. And you can decorate it in any way. You can simply coat the plywood with stain, varnish, or paint it. If you reduce the size, you get a children's clothes hanger that will decorate any room, especially if it is painted.

Wooden hangers made from natural elements

A good design solution is stands made from natural materials. Or rather, from a tree trunk. This clothes hanger is very easy to make and does not require special tools or materials.

First you need to find a good piece of dry wood, it should be completely dry and free of rot. The type of wood practically does not matter, but it is worth remembering that it is better not to use coniferous species with a high resin content. Glue may ooze from the barrel even after it has completely dried. It is best to use deciduous trees with a well-branched trunk to provide more space for clothing.

First you need to completely clear the trunk of bark, cut the lower branches to a height of one meter, and shorten the upper ones so that there are branches on which you can hang clothes. Then you need to completely sand the stand and clean it of dirt and irregularities. If the wood has been damaged by a bark beetle, this does not interfere, as it creates a rather beautiful pattern that will fit perfectly into the design of the hanger.

The second stage of the work is the stand, since the tree trunk cannot stand on its own. The most important thing to remember here is that the more massive the stand, the more stable the hanger will be. You can make a stand from a thick board; this will be the best option for work. The stand itself can be given any shape, it can be a circle, square, triangle or any other geometric or abstract shape.

There are different ways to attach the stand to the stand. For example, if the lower part of the tree is quite thick, then you can simply screw the board to it with self-tapping screws. The screw heads will be at the bottom, so they will not be visible. If the bottom of the tree is relatively thin, then you can fix it in a stand by making a hole in it; it should be no larger than the diameter of the trunk itself. Then simply attach the stand to the stand with glue - this method is the most reliable.

It is worth remembering one feature of the tree trunk - it has a cone shape. Therefore, it is better to make the hole in the stand smaller than its diameter, and carefully trim the bottom of the tree. This way, the stand will hold well and there will be no gaps at the joint.

When the wooden hanger is ready, you just need to coat it with varnish, since it is better to preserve the natural color of the wood. But if a light-colored hanger doesn’t suit your design, then you can easily use stain or dark paint.

An original and very practical version of a floor hanger, which is easy to make, can be made in the form of a ladder. This accessory is perfect for the bedroom if you don’t like to use an armchair or the back of a chair to store clothes in the evening.

For production you will need only two bars approximately 5x5 thick and 170-180 cm long. Also for the crossbars you will need three smaller bars, the length of which will be equal to the width of the hanger. All bars are sanded or processed with a plane. To make the hanger look beautiful and neat, it is best to connect the parts together using spikes.

Then you just need to cover the hanger with stain and varnish. A convenient and comfortable clothes rack is ready. As you can see, this DIY clothes rack is very simple and is suitable for a bedroom or summer house.

Like any wooden piece of furniture, such a clothes stand will look great in almost any interior and you can place things on it so that they do not wrinkle. If desired, you can also use several coat hangers that can be hung on the top bar. If during the day the hanger is in the way, you can simply take it and place it standing, since it is light and does not attach to anything.

Other types of floor hangers

Despite the fact that a floor rack for clothes is a rather simple element of the interior, there are many ways to make it. You just need to show a little imagination and remember that the structure must be stable. Otherwise, you can make clothes racks from any available material.

You also don’t need any special tools for the job. Of course, there are hangers made on a lathe from wood, but they are made by professional carpenters.

Remember that any piece of furniture you personally make will not only be the next step in your skill. If you do something with your own hands, then this thing will be unique and one of a kind.

In addition, by making furnishing elements yourself, you not only show your individuality, but also save significantly. Since even the simplest clothes racks in the store will cost an order of magnitude more than the material for the craft. And this is another incentive to start making things yourself, since handmade products are even more expensive.
Floor hanger, one of the easiest tasks. Therefore, you should not buy it in a store, but rather make it yourself.

Today I want to tell you about how you can make homemade hangers for your home wardrobe at home. I have been practicing this technology for a long time. I hope that this option will be interesting to someone.

I usually make hangers in batches of 15-20 pieces. In this case, they can be manufactured step by step, which greatly simplifies the entire process.

Materials and tools

To make it you will need:

• A piece of plywood or fiberboard for making a template;
• Cutting boards 15-20 mm thick without cracks;
• Wire 4 mm thick;
• Nut M4;
• A cap from a felt-tip pen or a soft plastic tube.
• Tools and hands.

DIY making

First, I made a template from a sheet of fiberboard by cutting it out with a jigsaw. I took the template size from a standard plastic hanger.

Then I transferred this template onto the boards with a pencil in such a way as to avoid getting into the cracks, and the existing knots were inside. They can then be cut out.

I drilled two holes from the inside using a Forstner drill with a diameter of 22 mm.

I cut out the contour of my future hanger with a jigsaw and cleaned it with a sander.

I marked the future hole for the hook and drilled it with a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. To drill the hole evenly, I used a vice when drilling.

From the inside of the drilled hole, I used a rasp to make a groove into which the nut that will hold the hook will be placed. This is necessary so that the hook does not cling to clothing.

He clamped it in a vice and sawed off a 20 cm long wire with a hacksaw, rounded one end with a file, and chamfered the other. I used sandpaper to remove the rust from the wire.

From the side of the removed chamfer, I cut an M4 thread with a die, approximately 5 mm long.

To bend the hook, I made a special mandrel from a birch block. I drilled a hole in it with a diameter of 6 mm, clamped the mandrel in a vice, and then inserted the end of the wire into the hole and bent the hook.

To prevent the hook in the hanger from falling through, I made a stopper from a cap from an old dry felt-tip pen. I sawed off the top part of the cap and inserted the cap into the hook.

I then inserted the hook into the hanger and secured it with an M4 nut.

That's the whole structure.

Production video

You can see more details about the manufacturing process of this hanger in my video:

A DIY clothes hanger is a fruitful idea. Theater begins with a hanger; house too. In the sense of spirit, atmosphere, “energy”. The reason is simple: the first thing a guest looks for is where to hang his outerwear. And if the hanger is clearly homemade, but comfortable, stable and durable, the owner is guaranteed a positive reputation.

The second argument for making a hanger with your own hands is prosaic: purchase prices are clearly disproportionate to production costs. A homemade clothes hanger will allow you to save an amount that is quite visible in your budget. It’s not difficult to make, you only need a little material, and waste from repairs will also be used. In most cases, the tool can be used manually.

These factors are especially felt if a floor hanger fits in the hallway. In addition, it can also serve as a dryer if its design is framed, see below, because On such hangers it is convenient to hang clothes on hangers, and the hanger itself moves away from the wall. If you managed to fence off the house, then a floor hanger is the best option. The cost of floor hangers is significantly higher than wall hangers, but there is nothing in the design that would prevent you from making a floor hanger yourself.

On the floor or on the wall?

What has been said is already enough to make a choice, as long as there is enough floor space. However, let’s finally look at what makes a floor-type hallway hanger so attractive:

• Clothes hung on hangers dry faster and do not stretch; The collar and lining do not tear.
• On a hanger approx. wide. 1.5 m will fit a seasonal set of clothes for the whole family, which will save on closet space and space for it.
• A shoe rack is naturally attached to the floor hanger, which simplifies the work of equipping the hallway and saves its space.
• With the correct dimensions of the hanger, neither the wall from clothes nor the clothes against the wall are damaged.
• The mobility of the hanger does not interfere with rearranging furniture; After moving the hanger, there is no need to seal the mounting holes in the wall.

However, there are different floor hangers, and not all of them are most suitable for residential premises. For example, for order (from the old Russian “order” - office, office, office) floor lamp hangers, pos. 1-4 in Fig., hanging clothes on hangers is inconvenient. Due to the small support area, they are rolly, especially when loaded with wet winter clothes. To emphasize the functional inferiority of the product, such hangers are called hangers, and they are often sold under this name.

The best option is the same theatrical wardrobe frame hanger, pos. 5. When designed for residential premises, it is supplemented with shelves for hats, shoes and gloves/scarves; possibly with an additional tie rod, pos. 6. Disadvantage – the “legs” of the hanger get tangled under your feet. In an attempt to get rid of it, they came up with hangers - frames on a stand, pos. 7, but generally speaking, they are even more rolls than ordered hangers. Another option is a frame hanger without legs, leaning against the wall; We will remember this one again. There are also folding frame hangers, but they have almost no advantages in everyday life.

If space is generally tight in the hallway, then a wall hanger is still more suitable. Simple wall hanger-sconce, pos. 1 in Fig., is as compact as possible, but no more convenient than an orderly one, except that it won’t fall to one side from the next jacket. Hanger-shelf, pos. 2, will not fall off if attached properly, and hats/caps from it too, but the wall and clothes rub against each other.

Wall hanger-panel, pos. 3, saves the wall, but not clothes. Leather items wear out the most on such hangers. Tanners jokingly advise: how can you tell a sheepskin coat made from full-grain leather from one made from reverse leather? The first one, with everyday use of the panel hanger, loses its appearance in 2 winters, and the second - in half a winter. Considering the cost of genuine leather products, this is no good. Therefore, wall hangers for expensive items are often equipped with soft upholstery, pos. 4. As for wall hangers with openwork panels, pos. 5, then in this case its meaning is only decorative: it does not protect either things or the wall.

There are also floor hangers-panels with a stand, for example. in the form of a cabinet, chest or chest, pos. 1 in Fig. on right. This is not the best option: someone will someday put something on the lid, and the clothes being removed from the hanger will knock it onto the floor. Much more practical are floor hangers-panels with a bench, pos. 2. A flower under the seat is a matter of taste for the owners, if only it survives there, but a shoe rack or a chest for accessories for its care is in the drawer of the banquette.

Clothes and keys

Regarding panel hangers, the amateur craftsman has an additional opportunity, namely: to equip such a side panel on the edge farthest from the front door. Perhaps not reaching the bottom, with a bevel or notch. Factory ones don’t do this: the hanger should be designed for clothes to stick out from the side. One sidewall almost does not interfere with this, but it is unknown how the hanger will sit with the buyer, and making right and left hangers is expensive.

What does this add-on provide? A place for a key holder, invisible from the threshold. There, on the side, there may be a dressing table or a cabinet, but the main thing is that the owner’s keys will not catch the eye of a casual visitor, and they are in plain sight, as criminologists say, a serious factor in spontaneous illegal actions, without which, i.e. temptation, a visit from a not entirely trustworthy subject would have turned out well for both the hosts and him. You can, of course, have it luxuriously decorated and with a secret lock, but this is a lot of work and costs for materials. Otherwise, a simple board with hooks will do. Or just hooks screwed to the side of the outside of the storage section.

Let's assume that a suitable design has already been chosen, and let's move on to how to make a hanger. Preferably wooden: the material is noble, natural, easy to process. Let's not forget other versions; in some cases more convenient. Let's start with floor hangers as the most functional.

Floor-standing

Those who love to craft from the heart and have a wood milling tool at their disposal can immediately take up a floor-mounted frame hanger with legs. Made from fine-grained hardwood (oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, birch), it looks luxurious and takes up only 360 mm of floor space.

A suit hanger works well as a prototype, you just need to make it taller and move the trouser bar up so you can hang hangers on it. Instead of a tie rod and handles, you can install a shelf, and a shoe rack is mounted below. Drawings of such a hanger are shown in Fig.:

With the other dimensions indicated, the structural and overall width (sizes 430 and 460 respectively) without compromising strength and stability can be increased by 1-1.4 m, i.e. the hanger will be narrower than family width up to more than 1.8 m. Self-orienting wheels, if full mobility is needed, can be installed without problems.

About hooks and traps

Bags, umbrellas, scarves are also left on the hanger, and a bachelor’s skirt and lingerie may also be there. Sometimes life is life. It is also more convenient to hang clothes on hooks for a short time. Therefore, in frame hangers, sometimes slider hooks are put on the main rod (formerly the trouser rod in Fig; height 1360). They or the hangers, depending on the need, are moved to the side en masse. But the sliding hooks under the fingers turn out at the most inopportune moment. In a hanger of this design and similar ones, the problem is solved simply: the main rod is for hangers, and the fixed hooks are attached to the top board.

Pipes and profiles

Original hangers are made from round or profile metal or plastic pipes, see fig. However, despite all the design tricks, their organic defects do not disappear. The same ones that hanged the orderly. But it adds high labor intensity: in order to hide the connecting nodes, you have to really strain both your hands and your head.

It is better to make a square base for a floor lamp hanger from pipes. With the same floor area removed, the distance between the support points increases by 1.4 times. If you make the base even heavier, a hanger up to 1.7 m high turns into a full-fledged hanger. 60 mm sewer pipes are most suitable.

A short master class in pictures on making the base of a floor hanger from pipes is shown in the following. rice. Pipe sections are 150-300 mm, depending on how much floor can be given to the hanger. In addition to them, you will need 3 straight tees, 4 right angles and 4 plugs. Connections are made using propylene or PVC glue, depending on the pipe material. Weighting - sand or small crushed stone.

One of the comments on the original design begins with a question like this: “Why couldn’t you just solder it?” Judging by the fact that later in the same comment the 90° angles are called bends with an obvious claim to professionalism (plumbing bends are oblique tees), 2-3 more and the same number of exclamation marks suggest themselves in addition to the question mark.

Nevertheless, the author of the product, even if she did not know plumbing terminology, solved the problem quite like an engineer. The hanger doesn't need sealed joints, and a tube of glue will cost much less than renting a soldering iron for propylene. Which you also need to learn how to use, spoiling a lot of the material. For greater reliability, you can reinforce the connections with phosphated (black) self-tapping screws: their heads are not visible on black, and the strength of the hanger will not be reduced.

Note: the top in the original design is also made of pipes, but its design, frankly speaking, is not that... It would be better to drill inclined holes in the rack and insert some strong pins into them using the same glue; wooden, metal.

Simple frame

A frame hanger made of pipes can be without legs, simply leaning against the wall at an angle. However, its slope must be negative. There should be at least 350 mm between the wall and clothes on hangers. If the tilt of the frame is positive (the upper crossbar is adjacent to the wall), then the lower one will “move away” from the plinth by 500-600 mm. In a small hallway this is a serious inconvenience. In addition, they will either cling to the bottom crossbar with their feet and it will break the floor, or they will have to fasten it to the floor, and this is really bad: any violation of the flooring is fraught with complex and expensive emergency repairs. Have you ever seen furniture on sale that needs to be screwed to the floor? Unless for special purposes, for example. rack. And then, they also try to make do with fastenings to the walls and, in extreme cases, the ceiling.

The diagram of a frame hanger with a negative slope made of pipes is shown in Fig. The materials are the same: sections of straight sewer pipes 60 mm, 90 angles and straight tees. The usable floor area taken away is zero. Below there can be a shoe rack or a banquette. For fastening to the wall, so as not to drill a lot and do without expensive collet anchors, it is better to take a couple more tees: with their help, the holding beams - guy wires - are attached to the wall with a pair of self-tapping screws in dowels each.

Wall mounted

Simple panel hangers do not require any special disassembly. How to make a wooden wall hanger, see e.g. video.

Video: DIY wall hanger made of wood

Here we remember, firstly, about the sconce hanger. Folding, it can be very useful if a large company has gathered or the kids have returned from the yard.

An example of this kind of design is shown on the right in Fig. However, its creators were clearly guided by the principle: “Consumption is the basis of cash circulation.” The outer (folded) side of the flap is inactive and requires a locking mechanism. And a separate hanger for every day.

Meanwhile, folding wall hangers have been known since Ancient Egypt. In the climate there, outerwear was worn occasionally, in bad weather, but after wearing it it was necessary to dry it. There was no point in keeping a separate hanger for this in areas where it rains and is cold not once a year, so they came up with one like the one on the right in Fig.

When folded, the compact Egyptian wall hanger was secured with a cypress stick. Now, of course, you can install a ball retainer or just a hook. The main thing is that the hook hooks should be 3/4 of a circle, then nothing will fall off them even with the bar folded back. And without need, the whole hanger looks like just a stick on the wall; You can hang bags, umbrellas, and keys on the hooks.

More about hooks

An original wooden hanger can be made without any metal at all, not counting the fasteners. Do not rush to throw away the New Year's pine or Christmas tree (only the blanks will need to be turned upside down):

Video: original DIY wooden hanger

Such a hanger will look best in a country house, in a timber or frame house. Depending on the interior design – even in a city apartment. It will go well in the bathhouse: touching steamed skin to metal is both unpleasant and, to some extent, even dangerous.

Hangers for the nursery

Probably all children throw away their clothes. There is no need to particularly scold them for this: without experiencing chaos within reasonable limits, you will not get accustomed to order. Who is against it - answer Friday’s question to Robinson Crusoe: “Why doesn’t the devil kill God?”

However, it is necessary to teach children to handle things properly. Only a children's hanger, so as not to cause obvious psychological rejection, should look somewhat disordered. It is also highly desirable that the child associate it with his favorite game or hobby. Examples of “game/hobby” type wall hangers for children’s rooms are given in pos. 1 and 2 fig.

A universal method of this kind is a tree hanger, pos. 3. In the contour of a tree, as in any fractal structure, order and chaos interact and complement each other, giving rise to a harmonious whole. Just don’t forget to make the wood stronger, e.g. from plywood from 12 mm, and properly, in increments of no more than 250-300 mm, attach to the wall with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in propylene dowels. A tree is meant for climbing.

Floor hangers in a nursery are undesirable for the same reason: well, they will climb anyway and crash. Therefore, if you want a floor hanger for the nursery, you need to make one that you can’t fit on, as can be seen in pos. 4 and 5.

About cutting plywood

In any case, parents are faced with problems that little ones don’t care about yet: material consumption and labor intensity. Drawing a complex contour along a grid on a single sheet of plywood is no longer easy; then you need to cut it out precisely, which is even more difficult. And in the end it turns out that 60% or 80% of the material went to waste, no longer suitable for anything. On the contrary, you need to make a children's tree hanger from waste. Or cut a whole sheet more tightly.

The method for this has long been known: element-by-element cutting and assembly. If the tree is plywood, for complete strength of the finished product, each part is assembled from 2 layers, leaving the corresponding folds and grooves, see fig. Fragments of blanks are assembled using PVA glue, wood glue or “Express” (liquid nails). If the assembly is made of PVA, the fragments must be additionally fastened with small snake nails in increments of 100-150 mm with a distance of 30-40 mm from the edges.

The wooden hanger is assembled using the same adhesives, but now each connection must be secured with wood screws and an envelope. Then the gaps and fastener heads (they need to be recessed during assembly) are rubbed with putty made from sawdust of the same plywood on PVA. Such wood will look solid even without painting, only under varnish.

Note: Just in case, let us remind you that before assembly, all wooden parts of any wooden hanger must be sanded with fine sandpaper and treated with a water-polymer emulsion or PVA diluted three to five times with water. After impregnation, before further work, a technological break is taken until the part is completely dry (1-3 days, depending on its size).

And one last thing about hooks

In the illustrations above, you most likely noticed the curved wooden hooks and other details of the hangers. It is quite possible to make them at home. In production, dense, fine-grained, defect-free wood or waterproof birch plywood (BS grade) is bent by heating with steaming or dry, but these methods are too complicated for home work. Only bamboo is steamed more or less simply: the workpiece is boiled for half an hour or an hour in rapidly boiling water, after which it is bent by hand. In the case of bending according to a template, the workpiece must be quickly tied to it, before it has cooled down, with a wide cotton braid or a strip of natural tarpaulin.

At home, it is easier to cut blanks of the required configuration from a sheet of plywood (any) or MDF of the required thickness or, twice or four times as much in quantity, from thin sheet material, in order to then collect as much thickness as required. Cut with a finishing allowance of approx. 1 mm. The cut blanks are tightly pulled together in a package in a carpenter's vice or in a mechanic's vice through spacers made of thick plywood and processed with a wood rasp to size, and then sanded clean. One rasp is enough, with flat and semicircular working surfaces, see fig.

The blanks are assembled into parts using the method described above. The end surfaces, if it is necessary to hide the layered structure of the plywood, are sealed with strips of self-adhesive wood-like film. After this, the part is varnished two or three times with water-based acrylic varnish; nitro varnish can damage the self-adhesive. There is no point in edging (edging) with a plastic furniture edge: you need to accurately select the groove for the edge anchor, which requires a milling machine, but on curved surfaces of great curvature and short length, the edge still does not hold well. And parts covered with self-adhesive tape, varnished, and solid wood cannot be immediately distinguished even by a master cabinetmaker.

Such hangers can be used not only for outerwear in the hallway, but also as mini-wardrobes in the room. It all depends on what type and design you choose. Rack hangers for clothes are functional, easy to move from place to place, and free the backs of chairs from unnecessary clothes.

This article contains several interesting and simple ways to make a floor clothes hanger with your own hands. They won't take much time or effort.

Choose the option you like and go ahead to interior changes!

Necessary materials:

1. Two long copper pipes 3 m and 2 cm thick, each of them will need to be cut into the following parts (this can be done at the hardware store where you will buy everything):

• 1.5 m long– the height of the hanger (this height should be enough for both jackets and coats, but you can take more or less as desired);
• 1 m long– the size of the pipe on which you will directly hang things (it can also be longer or shorter, calculate how many things you want to place there);
• two tubes about 20-25 cm long– we will use them to make hanger legs.

That is, you get 2 copper tubes of 1.5 m each, 2 of 1 m each, 4 of 20-25 cm each.

• 4 copper elbow bends (tubes bent at an angle of 90 degrees) for attaching pipes to each other, match the diameter to the pipes (approximately 2 cm);
• 2 T-connectors;
• 2 pipe caps;
• Glue (epoxy glue or consult with the store salesperson which of what is available will work);

Step-by-step instruction:

Step 1: Measurements

Measure the space on the floor where the hanger will be placed to make sure it will fit. If you take the indicated dimensions, the result will be 150 cm x 100 cm x 45 cm.

TIP: Adjust dimensions if necessary.

Step 2: Assembling the hanger legs

We begin to fold the floor hanger itself from the legs, make a support and a stand. To do this, take the first pair of 20 cm tubes and attach them between a T-shaped connector, and then we do the same with the second pair.

Step 3: Attach the protective caps

To prevent dust and dirt from getting into the middle of the pipes that will serve as legs, you need to close the holes. Attach a pipe cap to each of the two legs folded in the previous step at one end.

Step 4: Base

• On tubes with caps on the other side, attach an angle in this way: when the angle is on the floor, the T-shaped connector located in the middle of the leg should be directed upward.
• Take one of the meter long pipes and insert it into the corners, now the base of the hanger is ready.

ATTENTION: To securely fix the structure, you can use glue (at least in all joints), but then the hanger cannot be disassembled and folded again (when moving, for example).

Step 5: Side Posts

Insert a one and a half meter pipe into each of the T-shaped connectors, thus forming the side posts.

Step 6: Finishing Touch

• Attach a corner to each of the newly installed racks (they should be directed towards each other), and insert a meter-long pipe into them.
• You can also attach felt pads to protect the floor. The floor hanger is ready!

Note: Since this structure can be easily disassembled (if no glue was used), its length can be changed, for example, depending on the time of year: in winter there are more things - longer pipes were installed, in summer shorter ones.

Hanger made of PVC pipes (budget option)

The method of making this floor hanger is similar to the previous one: the pipes are folded like a construction set to form a hanger. But here we do not use copper pipes, but PVC, so it will be much cheaper. And, of course, another new design idea.

Necessary materials:

• PVC pipe 2 m long and 2.5 cm in diameter, it needs to be cut into the following parts: 12 cm (6 pieces), 80 cm (1 piece), 20 cm (2 pieces) and 10 cm (1 piece).
• PVC pipe 50 cm long and 2 cm in diameter, cut into 3 pieces of 15 cm each.
• 4 corner bends with a diameter of 2.5 cm.
• 3 corner bends with a diameter of 2 cm.
• 6 T-connectors with a diameter of 2.5 cm.
• PVC glue.
• Aerosol paint.
• 4 PVC adapters from 2.5 cm to 1.25 cm.
• 3 PVC adapters from 2.5 cm to 2 cm.
• Felt pads to protect the floor (optional).

Step-by-step instruction:

Step 1: Cut the tubes into pieces of the desired size

First of all, we have to cut the PVC pipes for rack mounting. You can do this yourself at home with a PVC cutter or ask at a hardware store.

After cutting the pipes into pieces, their edges can be sanded so as not to be scratched when assembling the hanger.

Step 2: Sorting materials

Now we have all the necessary parts and for convenience it is better to sort them, then the assembly process will be faster and more orderly. Arrange the materials in piles, depending on their purpose.

• For the hanger stand you will need: 4 corners, 4 adapters from 2.5 cm to 1.25 cm, 3 T-connectors and 6 tubes 12 cm long (diameter 2.5 cm).
• For each hand hangers: T-shaped connector, PVC adapter from 2.5 cm to 2 cm, 15 cm PVC pipes with a diameter of 2 cm and an angle with a diameter of 2 cm (you can also put a pipe cap on it).
• For stand: one PVC tube 80 cm long, two 20 cm, one 10 cm and a cap.

Step 3: Assembling the hanger

• Stand

Secure each two tubes with a T-connector. Insert one of the three resulting structures between the other two, as shown in the photo. Place the corners on the edges of the other two, turning them down so that the hanger stands on them.

• Hands

Place the T-connector, adapter, tube and cap together as shown in the photo.

• Rack

Insert a tube 80 cm long into the stand into the T-shaped connector, attach one of the arms of the hanger to it, then attach a tube 20 cm long, another arm of the hanger, again the same tube and arm, a tube 10 cm long and, as a final touch, put the cap on top .

To make the structure hold better, it can be secured with a special PVC glue. Be careful with the arms of the hanger to make sure they are glued in the right direction - with the corners facing up.

Step 4: Painting

The design of the hanger is ready, but it still doesn’t look very aesthetically pleasing. Apply spray paint of your chosen color carefully and evenly, without staining the room.

TIP: to make the hanger more stable, you can pour sand into the pipes from which the stand is made. After such a little trick, the hanger will not fall and turn over.

Pipe hanger with several levels

Another hanger of this type, only with expanded functionality: here you can not only hang clothes, but also put shoes. Compact and convenient wardrobe.

Necessary materials:

1. PVC pipes with a diameter of 20-25 mm:
   • 4 length 100 cm
   • 2 length 65 cm
   • 4 length 48 cm
   • 6 20 cm long
   • 8 5 cm long
2. 10 T-connectors
3. 6 corner bends
4. Plate for bottom shelf

We fold it completely similarly to the two hangers described above.

Wooden floor hanger in 10 minutes

Necessary materials:

1. Wooden sticks (4 pieces) 180 cm long and 2 cm in diameter.
2. Rope: we will use this to tie wooden sticks together (you can also use leather cords, wire, or some other decorative material, as long as it holds the structure firmly and securely).
3. Spray paint: We used gold to paint the bottom of the hanger legs (you could also use a different shade or color).
4. Paint: We used four different colors of paint, one on each hanger leg (but of course you could use the same color for all legs).
5. Painting tape: When using spray paint, this will help you avoid over-painting.

Step-by-step instruction:

Step 1: Paint the supports

• Paint the legs in your chosen colors and let the paint dry.
• Place masking tape where you want the spray paint to end and carefully apply the paint to the legs. It is better to do this outside, or cover the floor with newspapers so as not to stain anything. Peel off the masking tape.

Step 2: Forming a hanger

Connect the wooden supports together with rope, and then gradually move them apart. The result should be something similar to the base of a wigwam, the legs should be spaced wide enough so that the hanger is stable and easy to use.

This hanger takes up a lot of space, so it is best to place it in a corner.

Interesting ideas and photos

Tree hangers

This can be a neatly sanded tree trunk or branch, or a folded wooden structure. The main thing is that there is one support and branches from it - the handles of the hanger. An original and useful addition to the hallway.

Designer hangers

The number of elements and design may vary, but what all these floor hangers have in common is that they can be quickly folded and disassembled just as quickly (if you didn’t use glue). Sometimes more expensive and noble materials are used, such as copper, sometimes wood or PVC, in any case the result is beautiful and extraordinary.