Insulation of the capital garage. Protection of the garage from severe frosts

In the last article, we told you . Today we will not talk about installation methods, but about how much heaters for a garage cost. We will do this not for the sake of interest, but to calculate how to make your garage warm, while spending a minimum of money, and it won’t hurt to ask the price. Calculations will be carried out at Moscow prices for January 2016 at the rate of 75 rubles per 1 US dollar. We will only briefly talk about the advantages and disadvantages of materials, but we will still focus on the “selfish” issue.

Styrofoam insulation for the garage

Dowel fastening technique.

At the mention of garage heaters, the first thing that comes to mind is polystyrene foam. And for good reason, because it is the most common type of insulation. They insulate not only non-residential premises, but are also successfully used for apartments. At the same time, more than once the question arose of how to cheaply insulate a garage, because for this category of premises, the main thing is not aesthetics, but the effect, then why overpay?

Therefore, the work on thermal insulation is carried out mainly on their own, and there is nothing complicated there. Before you insulate your garage cheaply, remember the saying that the miser pays twice. You need to save money, but not at the expense of quality. When choosing foam, pay attention to:

• granule size;
• density;
• sheet thickness;
• the presence or absence of connecting locks.

The thickness of the foam is selected based on the climatic characteristics of the region.

Before you inexpensively insulate the garage, calculate the required thickness of the insulating layer. If it is too thin, moisture will appear between the insulation and the wall, followed by fungus. More effective external insulation, and internal insulation is likely to be cheaper. The difference is only in the cost of finishing, the same siding will cost more than drywall.

Before you inexpensively insulate the garage with foam, choose a method for attaching it to the wall. According to the rules, it is glued with special glue and fixed with plastic fungi. But in practice, they just don’t do anything, up to gluing onto mounting foam. Let's calculate how much it will cost to insulate the garage with polystyrene foam. So, for example, let's take a room with standard dimensions:

• width 3 m;
• length 6 m;
• height 2.2 m.

We will insulate the walls, ceiling and gates. Everything will require 52.8 square meters of foam. You need to take at least five (thickness 5 cm). The retail price in Moscow is 135 rubles per square meter, which is 7128 rubles in total. One sheet is attached to five fungi, respectively, they will need 690 pieces of 2 rubles each, total - 1380 rubles. You will also need a universal building adhesive for facades, which costs 500 rubles for a 25 kilogram bag. The consumption is 5 kg per 1 sq. m., which means that it will require 10 bags, the cost of which will be 5 thousand rubles. In addition, mounting foam is needed, three cylinders will go away, no less, and this is another plus of 600 rubles.

Answering the question about the best way to insulate the garage from the inside, we considered that the cost of insulation with foam plastic according to all the rules, but without finishing, will cost 14,100 rubles. You can not use glue, but only fix the foam sheets on the dowels, then the amount will decrease by 5 thousand rubles, but the quality will suffer.

Insulation of the garage with foam

The seams between the foam sheets are foamed.

Penoplex is similar to polystyrene not only in name - this is its modernized version, a new generation of garage heaters. Which one is better not to think, of course, penoplex:

• denser;
• less combustible;
• more resistant to mechanical stress;
• with equal characteristics, it has a smaller thickness.

In addition, this type of thermal insulation comes with connecting locks, although foam plastic is also available with such a device, but we considered it a cheap option, without locks. The presence of connecting grooves prevents cold air from getting inside the room, creating an almost insurmountable barrier. For complete sealing, all joints must be blown out with mounting foam.

Garage insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not support combustion.

Continuing to look for an answer to the question of how best to insulate a garage, consider such an insulator as cotton wool. Of course, not the cotton wool that is sold in pharmacies, but a special building mineral wool, into which various additives are mixed. Its name and some characteristics differ from the type of additives:

• glass wool - thermal conductivity coefficient 0.03;
• slag wool - thermal conductivity coefficient 0.46;
• stone wool - thermal conductivity coefficient 0.08.

Insulation of the garage with mineral wool should be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of manufacturers regarding the density of the material. Method of work:

• we put a hydrobarrier;
• then a layer of mineral wool, fasten with dowels;
• again a hydrobarrier;
• necessarily finishing.

To insulate the garage with mineral wool, you will need two layers of a hydrobarrier, these are two rolls of 450 rubles each, a total of 900 rubles. We will take mineral wool cheaper, but not in rolls, since then it shrinks heavily, as a result of which air pockets form. To fix this problem, you will have to remove the trim and add insulation. This development should be avoided. A package of mineral wool for 12 square meters costs 730 rubles. We will need 5 such packages, which will amount to 3650 rubles.

You also need dowels (fungi) to attach it to the wall, the number is the same as for foam. It remains to calculate the cost of finishing. It will be a frame made of a metal profile, sheathed with a thin 9 mm OSB board at 380 rubles apiece. The sheet size is 1220x2240 mm, which is 2.98 square meters. Such sheets will require 18 pieces, which is 6840 rubles. Now we consider the metal profile:

• guide (on the floor and ceiling) 29 meters - 500 rubles;
• ceiling profile about 80 meters - approximately 1600 rubles.

The total cost of insulating the garage from the inside with mineral wool will be 14,870 rubles. To this amount, you must also add the cost of self-tapping screws for the installation of metal structures and pressed OSB boards.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Liquid foam is blown through a small hole.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam begins with the construction of a false wall. This is the same metal frame, sewn up with some material. We have already decided that it will be OSB board. After the wall is ready, liquid polyurethane foam, also called penoizol, is pumped into the gap between it and the load-bearing wall. The advantages of this material:

• not afraid of moisture, so waterproofing is not needed;
• does not burn;
• fills all voids and takes their shape after solidification;
• does not miss sounds.

Penoizol can be in the form of crumbs or self-increasing foam, which greatly increases in volume. But unlike polyurethane foam, it does not violate the geometry of the ceilings that contain it. It cannot be said that this is a budget garage insulation, but there is no doubt that it is of high quality and safe. In addition, everything happens very quickly. How it works in practice:

• a team arrives with equipment;
• makes holes in the necessary places;
• foam is blown through the holes;
• simultaneously control the degree of filling voids.

The price is indicated in cubic meters, but in square meters it reaches about 180 rubles. It turns out that the total cost of the work will be approximately 18,500 rubles.

Expanded polystyrene

Reflective insulation - penofol.

There are different types of expanded polystyrene foam. This is a thin layer up to 5 mm. Its ability to recover after compression, thermal conductivity and degree of protection against moisture depend on the quality of manufacture. The material is used for insulation and sound insulation. There are products with a glued layer of foil. This is a reflective insulation, the foil in which can be on one or both sides. Also, such a heater can be self-adhesive.

Unfortunately, expanded polystyrene itself as a heater does not work well, because it is too thin. It is used as an additional barrier. Therefore, it is better to discard thoughts about insulating the garage with isolon once and for all, just spend your money in vain, the effect will be unsatisfactory. This is if there is no additional insulation with foam or cotton wool.

Let's summarize our calculations. How to insulate the garage inside, what is the most profitable option? Calculations for a garage 3x6x2.2 m showed the following results:

• foam plastic (without finishing) - 14.1 thousand rubles;
• penoplex (without finishing) - 16.2 thousand rubles;
• mineral wool - 14.87 thousand rubles;
• penoizol - 18.5 thousand rubles.

As expected, the main choice is between mineral wool and foam. At the same time, having insulated the garage with mineral wool, there will already be a beautiful wall decoration with OSB slabs, the insulation will breathe. Minuses of mineral wool is the fear of moisture.

The garage is a home for the car, which must be maintained at the optimum temperature throughout the year. This is necessary so that the machine is always in good condition and that the owner of the garage building is comfortable working in this room. It is to comply with these conditions that such a procedure as the insulation of the garage is carried out. Many car owners decide to insulate their garage on their own.

But before starting this process, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of the procedure, the types of materials for insulation and the detailed algorithm of actions.

Peculiarities

Insulation is the decoration of the walls of various parts of a garage building or gate with a layer of material that retains heat inside the building in the winter season and prevents the garage from overheating in the summer. This technology allows you to maintain a stable temperature range, which will positively affect the operation of the car or other devices that you store in this room.

It is necessary to insulate the garage room, because if this is not done, condensation may form on the surface of the car - excess moisture, which is released as a result of contact of the heated surface of the car with cold air. If this phenomenon occurs regularly, then the risk of corrosion on the car body increases, which can significantly reduce its service life.

In summer, an uninsulated garage gets very hot, which also contributes to the violation of the functions of the car, because it is undesirable to store the car at too high a temperature. Even an indicator of +20 degrees is unfavorable.

In order to efficiently and cheaply insulate a garage building with your own hands, you need to take into account a number of features of your building. These include:

• The material from which the garage is made. Each raw material has different resistance to heating and cooling, has different heat capacity and characteristics. Therefore, some buildings require a denser layer of insulation, while in the case of others, it is enough to get by with small layers. In addition, garages made of some materials, such as brick buildings, tend to have a standard thin wall thickness. Gates are often made of corrugated board, which is even less resistant to temperature effects.
• Features of a specific area of ​​​​the garage, the temperature in which you want to stabilize. In different zones, not only the thermometer readings, but also the humidity of the air can differ.
• Be sure to separate the concepts of insulation and ventilation. One process must not interfere with another. At the same time, pay attention to the layout of the building, especially if the garage has non-standard dimensions.
• Garage rooms can be insulated with your own hands only from the inside or outside. But ideal is a double-sided version of insulation.
• An important factor is the heating of the room. For heated garages, insulation is carried out using a special technology. A different type of material may also be required.
• The area of ​​​​the garage structure also determines the factor in the amount of heat loss. The larger the garage, the more carefully it must be insulated.

Material selection: varieties

To independently equip the garage room with a heat-insulating system, you can use a huge number of different materials. Each of them has unique features that should be considered in the process of insulation.

mineral wool

Mineral wool is a special material that allows the room to "breathe" in the presence of a heat-insulating layer in it. It is presented in the form of mats of various thicknesses, which consist of special fibers that retain heat. The texture of the coating depends on the place of insulation, since a soft material is used for the interior, and a harder one for the exterior. Such a heater has a number of positive qualities:

• versatility of use (the material is used for insulation of various surfaces, including walls, floors, gates, various partitions);
• low level of thermal conductivity;
• democratic price.

Among the disadvantages of the insulation can be noted the impossibility of its operation in conditions of high humidity. Under the influence of water, the structure and thermal insulation properties of mats deteriorate. So that the mineral wool does not lose its qualities, it must be protected with a special vapor barrier layer that will prevent moisture. The basalt variety of the material is considered the most multifunctional and high-quality. It has the best thermal conductivity. Also, such mats are able to absorb sounds.

A variety of mineral wool is a material such as glass wool, which has differences in texture and rigidity. Compared to mineral wool, glass wool is much tougher, its fibers have a sharp texture, so gloves should be worn when working with such mats. This insulation is quite cheap, because it absolutely does not tolerate moisture.

If water gets on the glass wool during the insulation process, it will no longer be suitable for further use. To prevent such an incident from happening, the mats should be carefully insulated with foil material.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam insulation is in the greatest demand for thermal insulation of garage premises. This material has many positive characteristics:

• Foam boards are very easy to install. They lend themselves perfectly to cutting with a hacksaw or even an ordinary construction knife (if the thickness of the material is small).
• Styrofoam does not lend itself to rotting processes.
• The material is moisture resistant.

Among the negative qualities include the combustibility of the material. Therefore, you need to choose such varieties of foam that can fade on their own. It is usually necessary to extinguish the source of the flame, and the foam products will die out on their own after 4 seconds. Also, such a heater does not allow air to pass through. Styrofoam is not suitable for insulating surfaces that are often exposed to sunlight, because under the influence of ultraviolet radiation the material is prone to crumbling and acquiring a yellow tint.

Penoplex

Modified materials are replacing traditional foam. These include such insulation as penoplex. It is made on the basis of extrusion of expanded polystyrene and is used to insulate garage buildings. The positive properties of the material are:

• high thermal conductivity;
• uniform small cells give the penoplex strength;
• the material is very easy to mount on your own;
• using penoplex, you can insulate the garage from the outside, because the material has low moisture conductivity;
• raw materials do not emit toxic substances during combustion.

The disadvantage of penoplex is its instability to fires.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a material for insulation, which has a very plastic structure and includes air bubbles in its composition. It is often used for garage buildings because it has a number of special characteristics:

• the material is difficult to burn;
• resistant to aggressive chemical solutions;
• such material is able to serve as a heat-insulating layer for a long time;
• does not emit any harmful substances and gases, which makes it safe for human health and environmentally friendly;
• such material is not afraid of moisture;
• it is important that fungus and mold do not form on polyurethane foam;
• a special property is the resistance of the material to the effects of small rodents, because sometimes mice appear in garages, but polyurethane is usually not exposed to their teeth;
• The service life of polyurethane foam reaches 50 years.

Among the negative characteristics of polyurethane foam are:

• UV resistant. To protect the material from the harmful effects of sunlight, it will be necessary to cover its surface with a special protective paint.
• The price of such material is usually high. But taking into account the service life and area of ​​\u200b\u200byour garage, it is quite reasonable to choose this raw material as a heater.

Reflective thermal insulation

The combination of foamed polyurethane foam and polished foil in the insulation forms a new type of thermal insulation material - reflective thermal insulation. The thickness of such a heater does not exceed 5 mm, so it is sold in rolls. Its main advantages include:

• the ability to carry out internal insulation of the garage without a significant loss of area;
• the material meets high hygiene standards;
• reflective thermal insulation is difficult to ignite;
• the material is light in weight, which is very convenient for transportation and installation with your own hands.

The disadvantage of this type of insulation is not complete, but only partial elimination of heat loss, since polyurethane foam with foil is not able to cope with all types of heat loss.

"Warm" plaster

Such material is a special combination of fillers, which include expanded polystyrene, sawdust, expanded vermiculite. Such material has the following advantages:

• there is no need to level before installing the insulation layer;
• plaster is combined with bases made of almost any material due to the high level of adhesion;
• with the help of the plastic structure of the material, it can be easily applied even to hard-to-reach areas of the garage;
• for such raw materials, the effects of mold, fungus, as well as small rodents are not terrible;
• the material is able to absorb heat and evenly distribute it;
• products of this type are environmentally friendly;
• such plaster is not subject to combustion.

Among the disadvantages of warm plaster can be identified:

• it is necessary to apply a thick layer of such material to the walls, which contributes to the loss of space;
• due to its thickness and structure, warm plaster tends to absorb moisture;
• also a dense layer will dry longer on the surface;
• the material is quite expensive, since it appeared on the construction market not very long ago and represents an innovation in insulation compared to other methods.

Thermal insulation paint

Many appreciate not only the quality of the insulation, but also the attractive appearance of the material. It is for such users that a special paint is suitable, which is based on acrylic polymers, organic pigments and synthetic rubber. This coating is similar to ordinary paint, but it has thermal insulation properties. It has a pasty consistency, the standard color of the composition is white, but you can add any color to it. The main advantages of such coverage are:

• the ability to apply the material on the base with a thin layer that does not exceed 0.4 cm;
• the material is useful for warming such hard-to-reach areas where it is not possible to strengthen rolled heaters;
• paint can be applied with a sprayer, this method allows you to evenly cover the surface;
• although the service life depends on the thickness of the layer with which the material is applied, the heat-insulating paint will perform its functions for a long period of time - up to 40 years;
• composition is presented in various variations. This helps to choose the type of paint for a certain temperature regime, in general, the temperature range ranges from -70 to +260 degrees;
• such material is resistant to ultraviolet rays;
• the composition applied to the surface is resistant to mechanical stress.

Among the minuses of the material, only its fire hazard can be distinguished. A special type of material for garage insulation is isolon. It is made on the basis of polyethylene foam and is a structure with small closed cells. Such a structure is made in the form of canvases of various thicknesses. One of the sides of some models is foil. The advantages of isolon include its resistance to moisture and sunlight.

Interior decoration

From the inside, various surfaces of the garage building are supplied with a heat-insulating layer: horizontal and vertical, smooth and embossed, overall and small, static and mobile.

But when finishing each of them, it is important to take into account a number of special nuances that are not characteristic of other types of surfaces. This will help quickly and efficiently insulate the garage.

Walls

If you decide to protect the garage building from freezing by insulating the walls from the inside, then the process of such finishing is carried out as follows:

• Clean the surface of the walls from dirt and greasy stains.
• Using drywall, make a partition. It forms a frame for the insulating material. To create a partition, special UD guides are used, which are attached with dowels to the floor and ceiling. Then, every 30 cm, CD profiles are installed in the wall.
• In addition to drywall sheets, you can also use asbestos fiber, a huge plus of which is resistance to fire.

But if you chose asbestos fiber, install frame profiles with more frequent steps, since the fiber is a rather fragile material.

• When the frame is made, you need to add a layer of insulation to the gaps between the partitions. It is most convenient to lay such material as glass wool, which is attached to the surface with the help of special hooks.
• After a layer of glass wool, you need to create a vapor barrier layer. To do this, a special membrane is taken and applied close to the insulation.
• From the outside, you need to plaster the garage "box" with warm plaster. It will protect the walls from freezing and excessive moisture. Instead of plaster, you can take a paint-heat insulator.
• It is necessary to equip the garage with ventilation, which will be designed for intensive air exchange.

If the surface of the walls is made of iron, then the most optimal is their insulation with polyurethane foam. A paint-insulator with a liquid texture is also suitable. With the help of special foam generators, liquid foam is produced. It changes its state of aggregation when it is applied to the wall, becoming a hard crust.

You can also insulate an iron garage with foam. This material is attached to the walls with glue. The process is carried out in several stages:

• the iron surface is cleaned and degreased;
• foam sheets are cut to the required size;
• the insulation is attached with glue to the surface of the walls;
• gaps are sealed with foam;
• if desired, such a heat-insulating layer can be painted.

Floor

To insulate the floor in a garage-type room, it is necessary to make a screed using materials such as sand, crushed stone, expanded clay for additional thermal insulation. To insulate this surface, it is necessary to follow a certain algorithm of actions:

• Arrangement of a pillow of crushed stone and sand. The crushed stone layer is poured with a thickness of 10 centimeters. Then a layer of sand is applied, its thickness can vary from 5 to 10 cm. The layers must be poured with water and compacted using a vibrating plate.
• Waterproofing on the floor is created using roofing material or polyethylene, which is evenly laid on the base. It is important that the ends of the polyethylene sheet go onto the walls to a height of 10 to 15 cm.
• A ten-centimeter layer of expanded clay is poured onto the film and rammed.
• A vapor barrier polyethylene layer is overlapped.

• A reinforcing mesh is laid on stands made of wood or brick. In this case, the size of the cells should be 10x10 cm.
• Next, the beacons are installed and fixed with a cement-sand mortar.
• At the final stage, the cement-sand mortar is mixed, which includes 1 part of water and cement and 4 parts of sand.
• The composition is applied to the floor with shovels and subsequently leveled using a rule and processed with a vibrating plate.
• To keep moisture in the screed, it is covered with a film. The surface will be ready for use after 28 days.

Roof

The majority of garages are equipped with a shed roof, which must be insulated, because it is she who is most exposed to various precipitations. But when insulating this floor, it is important to consider the material from which it is made. Styrofoam is usually attached to a wooden structure with nails and dowels.

If the coating is made of concrete, then it is necessary to attach a special frame to it, made using self-tapping screws and corners. A foam plastic is fixed to the frame, using adhesive tape, and the insulation plates are pressed tightly against the ceiling.

If the insulation contains fibers at its core, then a waterproofing layer must be laid on the roof side, and a vapor barrier layer on the ceiling side. To extend the life of the insulation, the surface is treated with special antiseptic paints.

Ceiling

The roof is also insulated with polystyrene foam from the side of the ceiling. The process of warming itself takes place according to the following scheme:

1. the surface of the ceiling must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased;
2. the ceiling is primed;
3. plates must be glued to the ceiling and aligned with the rule;
4. it is necessary to carry out additional fastening with dowels;
5. for additional connection between the plates, it is necessary to fasten the ladder;
6. then the plaster layer is applied;
7. based on personal wishes, it can be additionally stained.

Another suitable material for ceiling insulation is penofol. It is quite simple to create thermal insulation with penofol on your own due to the light weight of the material and its small thickness.

door, gate

Garage doors are most often a sliding metal structure with a small door built into it. The greatest amount of heat passes through the gate, so it is mandatory to insulate them. To do this, you can use ordinary plastic or fabric with a high density. The process is carried out as follows:

1. A dense polyethylene film is cut into strips, the length of which does not reach the garage floor by 1 cm. The width of the segments should be from 20 to 30 cm.
2. To fasten the strips, you need to install a wooden rail.
3. Polyethylene strips are overlapped by 1.5-2 cm. This ensures that there are no gaps through which cold air penetrates.

The most suitable material for insulating garage doors is foam. They fill the pre-installed crate. With the help of adhesive tape and rubber seals, gaps that can let in drafts are eliminated.

In places where the insulation will come into contact with the surface of the base, corrosion often forms, so it is necessary to apply a special anti-corrosion composition to the surface of the sheets in advance. The final stage is the fastening of a waterproofing plasterboard frame, which is pre-primed.

External design

Many people prefer to insulate garage structures exclusively from the outside. Such users believe that internal insulation significantly hides the space of the room. Also, a hallmark of interior decoration is the release of caustic substances and gases from some heaters.

If you decide to insulate the garage from the outside, then you can additionally decorate the building with an interesting finish, which will not only decorate the appearance of the building, but also help to resist environmental factors that affect the state of the thermal insulation layer.

The most popular design of the garage structure with the help of heat-insulating paint of the desired shade. She covers the gate. But if the garage is large and in addition to the gate there are also open sections of the wall that can be finished with other materials. The most popular, practical and interesting option is siding.

Basement

Many garages have a basement, which often functions as a cellar. This area of ​​the room should be properly insulated, because it has a special microclimate. One of the popular materials for basement insulation is polystyrene. At the preparatory stage of work, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the basement from dust and dirt.

The surface of the walls in the cellar must be leveled with putty and a primer solution, which will also protect against the possible occurrence of fungus. Using a spray gun, it is important to moisten the surface of the insulation and the base. Between the wall and the insulation, it is necessary to create a special ventilation layer.

• With adhesive solution. It is mixed in a special container and applied to the walls in a dotted way - by forming spots at a distance of 0.2 m. Using a trowel, another layer of glue is applied. The sheet must be applied to the surface of the wall and tapped with the palm of your hand.
• fungal method involves the use of dowels. It is also necessary to use dish-shaped plastic screws. Through holes are made in the polystyrene and the wall with a drill. It is necessary to leave indents in the corners with a length of 100 to 150 mm. The length of the screws should be selected with the addition of another 40-50 mm to the thickness of the polystyrene plates. The gaps between the plates must be sealed after 5 days using mounting foam.

At the last stage, the room is finished, for which plaster or acrylic compositions are used.

Do not close up absolutely all openings for ventilation of the room. This can significantly complicate the further operation of the garage and even harm your health. Due to the lack of even minimal ventilation, harmful gaseous substances will accumulate in the garage building.

• By insulating the floor, you can create a slope so that the water drains better.
• When you create a curtain with polyethylene strips, you should not make them too narrow, because they will cling to the car.
• Consider how harmful the insulation is. Some materials are toxic, so they are recommended to be used outside rather than indoors.
• To insulate a concrete roof from the outside, it is best to use extruded polystyrene.

• When insulating the door and garage door, do not forget to cut the material, taking into account the holes for the lock.
• Instead of drywall, OSB panels of small thickness can be used.
• If in the process of foam insulation you need to take breaks for a day, then it is better to use a construction gun, with which you can resume work with the composition after some time.
• To create additional insulation along the contour of the doorway, you can use roller shutters.
• When insulating with mineral wool, remember that the minimum thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be 100 millimeters.

Even 10-15 years ago, garages were built without insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. Therefore, in the cold season, it was impossible to use the room in full. With the advent of modern and inexpensive heaters, garage construction and finishing technologies have reached a new qualitative level. It became possible to insulate the garage with your own hands.

There are two ways:

• Garage insulation from the outside. This is not always possible in garages, where the outer wall of the insulated garage is the inner wall of the neighboring building.
• Warming the walls of the garage from the inside. Can be performed at any location of the building.

Garages are often insulated from the inside. Before you start work, you need to calculate the dew point. If this parameter is not taken into account, then the walls will get wet, a fungus will appear.

Before you insulate the garage from the inside, you need to figure out what materials are used. Find out their positive and negative properties.

The interior space of the garage consists of the floor, walls, ceiling and gate. Each is insulated separately:

• we insulate the walls with foam, mineral wool, plaster, penoizol (liquid foam), polyurethane foam;
• expanded clay is used for the floor, less often polystyrene;
• foam, penoizol or mineral wool is used for the ceiling;
• gates are sheathed with foam.

An important indicator for all materials of this group is thermal conductivity. Below is a summary table of averages:

Insulation of the garage from the inside is not made of blocks. New boxes for cars are being built from them.

Lightweight porous insulation for the floor or foundation of the garage, refers to cheap materials. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is about 1.5 times higher than that of polystyrene, but 10 times lower than that of brickwork. This puts it in the middle positions in terms of thermal protection. Not used in garage wall insulation.

Burnt expanded clay has a water absorption coefficient of not more than 20%, It is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, does not burn. Expanded clay is harmless to the body, as it does not emit harmful fumes.

Mineral wool

This is a class of artificial insulation with a fibrous structure. It consists of rocks, glass and slag. Insulation of garage walls from the inside with mineral wool is very common due to its high thermal insulation characteristics. According to this indicator, mineral wool is on par with polystyrene foam. It absorbs sound waves well, practically does not burn. Basalt mineral wool has high compressive strength.

The only negative is the high coefficient of water absorption. It is possible to insulate walls with its help only with the condition of subsequent plastering or other hermetic sealing of the surface.

Styrofoam

The most effective, cheapest and most popular garage insulation. It consists of small granules, reliably and hermetically soldered together. Do-it-yourself garage foam insulation from the inside is the most energy-efficient method.

Styrofoam has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. It does not absorb water and does not pass steam. It is a lightweight material that does not weaken the load-bearing capacity of a wall, ceiling or gate.

Styrofoam enters into a chemical reaction with many chemicals. It cannot be used in aggressive environments. Styrofoam releases hazardous phenolic compounds during combustion.

Styrofoam

According to the installation method, it practically does not differ from polystyrene foam. It has a lower water absorption coefficient, higher density. Insulating a garage from the inside with polystyrene foam is more expensive than a similar operation from polystyrene foam.

Penoizol

This is an analogue of foam for walls, which is applied in liquid form. Penoizol does not differ from polystyrene in heat-conducting characteristics. He has a burning class G-1. It absorbs water well, but does not accumulate in itself, but evaporates into the atmosphere. Penoizol is a hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation.

Do-it-yourself garage insulation

Most of the garages are built of brick or foam block. Therefore, the question often arises of how to insulate a brick garage, and not a metal one.

The work is divided into several stages:

• walls;
• gates;
• ceiling.

Walls

Do-it-yourself garage insulation is primarily wall cladding. Most of the heat is lost through them. So how to insulate the walls in a brick garage?

Wall cladding with styrofoam sheets

This is the answer to the question of how to insulate a garage cheaply.

• The walls are stripped of old plaster and paint. All irregularities are covered with cement-sand mortar.
• After drying, the walls are impregnated with soil or an antiseptic to kill mold and mildew.
• Then sheets of foam plastic 100 mm thick are glued. To do this, use a notched trowel and special glue.
• After 24 hours, a plaster mesh is attached to the foam. To do this, throw a little solution and press the stack into it.
• Then the surface is plastered and puttied. You can use both ready-made facade plaster in bags, and cement-sand mortar M150. It is better not to waste energy on independent mixing of the solution, but to buy ready-made dry mixes.

Installation of insulation on the frame

A more expensive, but effective and reliable way to insulate garage walls:

• The surface of the walls is cleaned, all bulges are removed. Potholes and cracks are expanded and sealed with a cement-sand mortar.
• An antiseptic or deep penetration primer is applied to the walls with a roller. Thus, mold and fungus are destroyed.
• After drying, the walls are sheathed with a polyethylene film or membrane vapor barrier.
• Using a laser level, two horizontal guides are installed. One goes along the floor, the other under the ceiling. For this, a wooden beam 100 × 50 mm or a metal profile is used. They are attached to the wall with anchors or self-tapping dowels.
• Vertical guides are installed in increments of 600-800 mm. Absolute precision is not needed here. Therefore, for installation, you can use the usual level or plumb line. Vertical guides are made of timber 100×50 mm or metal profile. They are attached to the wall in the same way as the horizontal rails.
• Insulation sheets are inserted between the bars. If foam is used, then it is attached to the glue. Then additional fixing of the sheets is provided with the help of plastic dowels in the form of a mushroom. The consumption rate per sheet is 5-6 pieces. The seams are sealed with mounting foam.

If dense basalt mineral wool is used, then glue is not required. It is enough to fix with plastic dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed with pieces of mineral wool.

For walls sheathed with mineral wool, a second layer of waterproofing is required on the interior side. Styrofoam does not need additional protection against moisture.

• For sheathing, lining or profiled sheet is used. Which material to choose, a matter of taste of each person.

More labor and material costs will be required for wall cladding with sheets of drywall or cement-bonded particle board. They are attached to the frame using wood or metal screws 30-40 mm. Then the joints between the sheets are glued with a mesh and puttied. At the final stage, the walls are puttied and painted.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam requires the involvement of third-party hired construction organizations. It is impossible to do the work with your own hands.

Floor

Basically, the thermal insulation of the garage floor is carried out by two materials: expanded clay or foam. As a coating, a cement-sand screed is used.

Thermal insulation of the floor with expanded clay

• A hole 250-300 mm deep is dug around the perimeter of the garage. The bottom is leveled and beacons are installed in several places. To obtain the mounting horizon, a laser or water level is used.
• The bottom of the pit is covered with roofing material or plastic wrap. A 300 mm bend is made on all sides.
• Expanded clay falls asleep. The thickness of the layer is equal to the depth of the pit. After backfilling, the surface is leveled according to the beacons using the rule. The beacons are then removed.
• A frame made of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is laid on top of the expanded clay. It can be bought or assembled directly at the construction site. To do this, the reinforcing bars are cut to size and laid out crosswise. Cell size 100-150 mm. The rods are connected to each other with a knitting wire.
• A beacon profile is laid on the grid with a step of 600 mm.
• A cement-sand screed is poured. The solution can be ordered or kneaded on site. The fill starts from the far corner. Layer thickness 100-120 mm. After pouring, the floor surface is equal to the rule. After 48 hours, the screed can be wiped off. For this, a trowel and a small amount of solution are used.

The period of complete drying of the screed is 28 days. Work on further insulation can be started 7 days after pouring. To avoid the appearance of cracks, the screed is shed with water every 12 hours for 3 days.

Styrofoam floor insulation

An option when you do not need to dig a pit. Insulation can be laid on the old coating:

• The old coating is cleaned of dirt. If there are large potholes, they are sealed.
• A plastic film or roofing material is laid on the floor. This is a layer of waterproofing.
• Sheets of extruded foam with a density of at least C-25 are laid on the finished base. The thickness of the insulation layer should be 100 mm. It is possible to lay casts in one layer with a thickness of 100 mm. It is much more reliable to use 50 mm foam, laying the sheets in two layers.

All joints are sealed with mounting foam.

• From above, the foam is covered with a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing material. On each side there is an overlap on the wall of 100 mm.
• A reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 100-120 mm is laid on the waterproofing. The mesh is laid on small veins, so the solution can flow under it.
• A screed is poured over the grid. The technology of the device of the supporting base is no different.

Gates

Metal garage doors are the main source of heat loss. If you completely insulate the perimeter, but do not touch the gate, then the work will be done in vain. Before starting the insulation, you can build an additional curtain. To do this, you need two wooden slats and dense reinforced polyethylene.

The first rail is attached above the gate. The film is cut into strips 200-300 mm wide and 20 mm long less than the distance from the rail to the floor. Then the strips are nailed overlapping each other. The second rail is stuffed on the first. It turns out a reliable fastening.

The curtain is ready, you can proceed directly to the insulation of the gates:

• The inside of the garage door is covered with plastic wrap.
• A frame is assembled from a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm. It is screwed to the gate leaf with metal screws. Previously, wooden bars are treated with an antiseptic.

The thickness of the beam for the frame should always correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

• Styrofoam sheets are inserted into the resulting frame. They are glued to the inner surface of the gate with glue. It must be chosen carefully, since the foam can enter into a chemical reaction with the glue and collapse. Sheets are pressed as tightly as possible to the surface of the gate.
• Butt joints are sealed with mounting foam.
• From above, the foam is sewn up with a clapboard or profiled sheet using self-tapping screws with a drill.

Ceiling

According to the production technology, the insulation of the ceiling does not differ from the insulation of the walls. Insulation sheets are attached to the cells of the frame made of wood or metal and sewn up with clapboard, drywall or any other finishing material.

Video: garage insulation

In this article, detailed instructions on how to properly insulate your garage. How to do the work cheaply, but with the best materials. The main thing is to follow the advice, take your time and thoughtfully approach each stage of finishing. Then the result will not keep you waiting.

You need to insulate the garage like a house - soundly and efficiently. Then the heating costs will be minimal, the dew on the car will be smaller, the interior space will heat up faster and cool down longer.
What is the best way to insulate a garage? Let's consider the issue.

Why do you need garage insulation?

What are our goals? Many auto-specialists and heat engineers claim that the optimum temperature in winter for storing a car is +5 degrees C. Then less dew falls on metal parts.

We need to make sure that in a garage with an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 25 square meters. in the worst frosts there was a positive temperature, and the costs for this were less.

If the insulation is “normal”, then a ceramic (non-flammable) electric heater with a power of up to 2 kW, equipped with an automatic regulator, can also heat the air up to +5 degrees. He will be able to heat the garage all winter, without overspending his motor resource.

How will a small heater handle the winter chill in such a room?

How to heat

The calculation is simple: to keep warm inside the insulated building, it will take 1 kW of energy per 10 square meters. meters of area with a ceiling height of up to 2.5 meters.

And we are trying to achieve in the garage only +5 degrees. WITH.

The good news for motorists is that there is no need to insulate the floors. The warmth of the earth acts as a natural garage heater in the winter. Of course, you need to remember to make a complete vapor barrier of the floor so that moisture does not come out of the ground along with the heat.

Despite the complete weathering of heat when opening the gate during the arrival and departure of the car, a small electric heater will cope with the task of maintaining a positive temperature all winter.

How to deal with weathering heat

When the gate is opened, there will be a complete air exchange in the garage. And the longer they are open, the more all heat-intensive objects will cool down, including the enclosing structures - walls, ceiling, floors ...

In winter, you need to hurry up with closing the gate, so that the cold does not have time to cool down much, everything that is inside.

They try to solve the problem of complete cooling with the help of a “curtain”. In the gate alignment, polyethylene strips up to 1 mm thick and about 30 cm wide are suspended from the frame with an overlap of several centimeters, so that they do not reach the floor by 1-2 cm (so that they do not raise dirt). A car pulling up raises the lanes, and behind it they immediately fall. This prevents the wind from blowing endlessly inside the garage.

But about this construction they say this:
“A motorist through the scratched polyethylene roughly sees where he is going on a scratched polyethylene car. "

But, be that as it may, full air exchange at the arrival and departure of transport is not too scary. If you do not keep the gate open for a long time, the cooling of heat-intensive fences does not occur, the incoming air in the garage quickly heats up again.

Needs proper ventilation

Much worse if the garage is not properly ventilated. With its complete absence, moisture will accumulate. High air flow (drafts) will lead to cooling.

As a rule, forced ventilation is not needed, or harmful. It is enough to make an outlet with a damper in the roof or upper part of the wall opposite the gate. The gate, as a rule, is not dense, and there are plenty of slots for air to enter. But, of course, there should be a closable opening at the bottom of the wall.

Adjust the amount of air passing through the garage to a minimum. This is done on a case-by-case basis, so that moisture build-up is not allowed.

It is the drafts that will cause complete cooling and freezing of the structures inside. Requires a ventilation regulator on the chimney.

But all of the above is not necessary, not achievable, harmful if the garage is not insulated.

The basic principles of creating a warm garage

Garages can be of different designs. The materials from which they are made can be different. In addition, the garage can be internal in a series of neighbors, or stand on the outskirts. In general, there are many options for warming.

But there is only one principle - the garage must be sufficiently insulated, in accordance with the regulations. Then the cost of heating will be minimal, and if necessary, it will be possible to quickly heat the interior to a high temperature.

What is the thickness of the heat insulator

Saving on the thickness of the insulation is a meaningless exercise. The work will be done, and the effect will be half-hearted. Therefore, we immediately determine the minimum thickness of different types of insulation for garage building envelopes.

We assume that the garage is located somewhere in the temperate climate of the European part, where it is not too cold, but in winter - minus 20 - 25 degrees is not uncommon. To keep heating costs to a minimum, for thin enclosing structures, in the form of a metal sheet, the following thickness of insulation on the walls and on the gates will be required:

• polyurethane foam - 7 cm
• extruded polystyrene foam - 8 cm
• polystyrene - 10 cm
• mineral wool - 12 cm.

This is for walls, but for the roof, the value must be multiplied by 1.5,

In the northern regions, of course, the thickness of the insulation should be larger, it is better to take it according to the SNiP for residential buildings so that the garage is insulated "as expected".

Polyurethane foam for garage and gate

To insulate a metal garage, it is enough to apply a layer of polyurethane foam 6–7 cm thick for the gate walls and 10–11 cm for the roof on all fences.

How to insulate a metal box - outside or inside? Outside, it will turn out to be more expensive, and significantly since polyurethane foam needs to be painted with a protective layer. Yes, and inside on the surface of the metal, dew is possible during temperature changes.

When insulating from the inside, the space will decrease and the insulation will possibly interfere.

In most cases, polyurethane foam is insulated from the inside, which affects the desire to save money. With high humidity and temperature changes, dew will not collect on the surface of the insulation. But for aesthetics, it is desirable to close up such walls from the inside with sheathing.

But this is the most expensive type of thermal insulation - you need to order an organization, there is a benefit with large amounts of work. But the quality, as a rule, of a monolithic layer is the highest, and the time is minimal.

Paste with foam - the most common option

Polyurethane foam can be replaced with extruded polystyrene foam - the coating will also turn out to be expensive, durable, water resistant, protecting the garage from moisture. But then you need a lot of special glue "foam-metal (enamel-paint)". And the work will still be the same - you need to glue everything with a layer of 8 centimeters with your own hands.

But the layer from the inside will turn out to be even, suitable "for the garage interior."

But you can, of course, replace it with dense foam, but you will need a larger layer thickness, since the material itself conducts heat better, with less durability and can change its humidity. It must be covered with protection even when it is inside the garage to prevent dew from falling into the insulation layer. Painted with waterproof paint. He's not strong. Easily destroyed.

But expanded polystyrenes are used by rodents for all their purposes, so attention to this issue is needed.

How to thermally insulate walls

If the walls of the garage are made of cinder block or other densely heavy material, then it should be insulated, if possible, according to classical technology - from the outside, using well-known methods. Space is saved, the wall does not freeze, the insulation efficiency is greater.

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Styrofoam 10 cm thick is glued to the walls from the outside, in the corners it is also fixed with dish-shaped dowels. The walls must be smooth, free of sand and dust. It is not allowed to glue the foam on the old plaster. In general, foam insulation from the outside is a wet facade, it has many nuances.

But you can, of course, insulate the walls of the garage with mineral wool, using the ventilated facade technology. Get more expensive, but the finish can be different from the hinged panels, a very attractive look.

Features of creating a roof

Most often, the roof of the garage is made single-pitched with a small angle of inclination. Materials can be different - from a completely wooden panel structure to reinforced concrete slabs.

It is best to use extruded polystyrene foam for the roof, which can be glued to the fence in a continuous layer, with contact with the insulation on the walls. If expanded polystyrene forms a flat surface, then it is enough to cover it with some kind of wear-resistant water-reflecting material - the same roofing material, for example.

In this technology, extruded polystyrene foam can be replaced with dense, walkable foam.

Polyurethane foam is usually not used, since the coating forms an uneven surface, which must be filled with a large layer of adhesive for roofing material or other materials.

It remains to be recalled that the greatest heat leakage is through the roof, so the insulation layer here is 50% more than on the walls.

If the garage has common walls with neighboring ones, then it can only be insulated from the inside. In this case, it is not recommended to use cotton materials, because of the threat of accumulation of moisture by them. The walls from the inside of the garage are insulated with foam, but 5 centimeters thick.

Thermal insulation of the soil - preventing freezing inside

This was hardly mentioned anywhere before, although the solution is obvious. Since the foundation, soil, floor heat the garage in winter, they must be protected from the winter cold. If the garage is located separately, then around it it is necessary to insulate the soil at a distance equal to the depth of freezing of the soil, but if not possible, then at least at least 1.0 meters.

The width of the insulation decreases significantly with increasing depth of its location.

Warming the ground around is an effective solution, as it will increase the temperature of the foundation, walls and soil inside an unheated building.

A strobe is removed around the foundation to a depth of 10 cm, the prescribed width. (a pit is dug up to 0.5 meters deep). A leveling layer of sand is made with a thickness of 3 - 5 cm with a slope from the garage. The sand is rammed and watered. Expanded polystyrene is laid extruded in a continuous layer 5 cm thick. On top of the waterproofing - to reflect and drain water. backfilling with sand and laying paving decoration material, or simply backfilling with crushed stone, slag, and earth.

When insulating a garage, all requirements regarding the prevention of cold bridges must be met - all gaps and joints are closed with scraps of insulation on glue.

Now the car will be in an acceptable atmosphere, which is easy to regulate at your discretion with ventilation and a small non-flammable heater. And if necessary, you can spend the night in such a room, for example, in case ... In general, it is not difficult to make a garage insulation, you just need to follow the rules and make efforts with your hands.

Modern heat-insulating materials allow you to perform high-quality complex insulation of the garage with your own hands. Thanks to well-organized internal insulation in the garage, an almost constant temperature will be maintained, which will favorably affect the service life of finishing materials and, in general, everything in the room.

There is nothing difficult in self-insulation. Just read the instructions and do everything in accordance with the recommendations received.

You don’t need to spend a lot of money on such insulation, but you need to allocate time to dig a pit with a depth of about 45 cm.

First step. Lay roofing material or other waterproofing material in the prepared pit. The material is laid with a 10 cm overlap on the walls.

Second step. Set up beacons to guide you when backfilling. Usually, the function of beacons is performed by chopped reinforcement. You can use any other suitable materials. Fix the beacons with plaster or cement mortar.

Third step. Fill in a 25-30 cm layer of expanded clay. Gradually remove the beacons and fill in the recesses remaining from them.

Fourth step. Lay the reinforcing mesh. Traditionally, a grid with cells of 10x10 cm is used. You can buy a grid or make it yourself from metal wire.

Fifth step. Fill in the screed. Use a standard cement-sand mortar. For greater convenience, you can pre-install beacons. It is important that the screed is absolutely horizontal. Level the fill and let it dry. It is recommended to create any load on the floor at least a month after pouring the screed.

If you wish, you can refuse to dig a pit and expanded clay, using a simple insulation technology using expanded polystyrene plates. The disadvantage is that the height of the room will decrease by about 20 cm. But the insulation can be laid directly on the existing floor.

First step. Vacuum thoroughly and sweep the surface.

Second step. Lay a plastic film or other waterproofing material on the floor, for example, roofing material.

Third step. Lay the polystyrene foam boards as close as possible to each other. The thickness of the foam must be at least 10 cm. The minimum allowable density is C-25.

Fourth step. Lay another layer of moisture-proofing material on top of the foam.

Fifth step. Lay reinforcing mesh.

Sixth step. Fill in the screed. Follow the recommendations received in the instructions for insulation with expanded clay.

The advantage of this option is that the thermal insulation will “steal” only 10 cm of the height of the room. Styrofoam of any density is suitable, because. in the future, he will not have to twitch any loads. It is most convenient to use sheets measuring 100x50x5 cm. For flooring, use boards 5 cm thick.

Choose the width and length of your choice. Also prepare a 5x5 cm beam for laying lags. Neither logs nor boards will be attached to the floor. The flooring will “walk” a little, but in the future there will be no difficulties with the replacement of rotten and broken boards.

First stage. Vacuum thoroughly and sweep the floor.

Second phase. Alternately lay logs and foam sheets on the floor. The walls should have logs.

Third stage. Cover the insulation with a layer of vapor barrier film.

Fourth stage. Lay wooden boards in a continuous flooring. An ordinary unplaned board will do. It is better to refuse the use of tongue-and-groove boards for such work, because. without a rigid fastening, they quickly deform.

After insulating the floor, proceed to the device for thermal insulation of the garage door. First, it is recommended to make a simple thermal curtain from available materials, namely, a polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.8 mm or more.

First step . Take the polyethylene and cut it into strips. Select the length of the strips so that, when fixed on top of the gate opening, their lower edge does not reach the floor by about 1.5 cm. Keep the width of the strips within 20-30 cm.

Too narrow stripes will cling to the elements of the car, for example, exterior mirrors. Too wide will interfere with normal entry and exit from the garage. The proposed width is the most optimal.

Second step. Fix a wooden lath on top of the gate opening.

Third step. Attach the polyethylene strips to the rail. To do this, it is convenient to use a construction stapler. Can be nailed down. The strips are attached with an overlap of about 20 mm.

The thermal insulation of the gate does not end there. The polyethylene curtain will only help to reduce the amount of heat escaping through the open gate. To achieve the maximum effect, the design needs additional insulation. Usually foam is used for this.

First step. Attach the plastic film to the gate in any way convenient for you.

Second step. Install a wooden frame over the waterproofing. It can be assembled from rails or timber. The main thing is that the width of the composite element approximately corresponds to the thickness of the foam used. Fasten the bars at such a distance that the sheets of insulation lie between them as tightly as possible.

Third step. Treat the frame elements with heated drying oil or a special antiseptic.

Fourth step. Lay the foam between the bars of the crate. The foam itself is attached to the surface with glue. It is desirable that the glue be waterproof. Sheets should fit as tightly as possible to the garage door leaf.

Fifth step. Take a balloon of mounting foam and seal the joints between the insulation boards.

Sixth step. Close the thermal insulation with a material that is denser than foam, for example, with a thin clapboard or other lightweight material.

Styrofoam slabs are best suited for internal insulation of garage walls. It is an easy-to-install, inexpensive and effective heat insulator.

The first step is preparing the walls. Remove existing coating. In its absence, clean the surfaces of existing contaminants. Repair defects with putty. Align the walls with putty. The foam laying technology requires that the base be as even as possible, so pay special attention to this moment.

The second step is surface treatment. Be sure to treat the walls with a special antifungal compound and cover with a primer. Thanks to the primer, better adhesion of the insulation boards to the base will be ensured.

The third step is the laying of thermal insulation. In most cases, slabs with a thickness of 10 cm are sufficient. For cold northern regions, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer can be increased. Apply glue designed to work with such material on the insulation sheet. Can be applied in a continuous layer or spotted. Before laying out the first row of insulation, nail a wooden plank to the wall. Use dowels to fix.

Thanks to this element, the evenness of the installation of the plates will be ensured. Attach the foam with adhesive to the wall and press firmly. Additionally, each plate must be fixed with dowels in the amount of 3-4 pieces.

The fourth step is to strengthen the thermal insulation. Cover the surface with a sufficiently thick layer of glue (about 25-30 mm) and drown the reinforcing mesh in it.

The fifth step is plastering. The thickness of the plaster layer should be such that the finish completely covers the reinforcing mesh, and the coating is as even as possible.

At the end, the walls need to be painted or sheathed with a finishing material of the owner's choice.

In the end, you need to equip the thermal insulation of the garage floor. The order of fastening sheets of thermal insulation will vary depending on the design of the roof. If the structure is made of boards, it will be enough to simply nail the foam plates to it with dowels of the “umbrella” type or with nails. A polyethylene film is laid on top of the insulation. It must be attached to the boards with long screws.

In the event that the ceiling is made of concrete, insulation will require the preliminary construction of a frame. The usual crate is made, already familiar to you from the previous sections of the instructions. Insulation is placed between the bars of the frame. First, it is fixed with available means, for example, with adhesive tape, and then pressed with sheathing sheets. The finishing skin is fastened to the frame using nails, dowels or other suitable fasteners.

Mineral wool can be used instead of polystyrene. The technology remains the same. The only thing is that before laying the plates, it is necessary to attach a waterproofing material to the surface, for example, polyethylene, and cover the laid plates with a vapor barrier material.

On this thermal insulation work can be completed. If you wish, you can finish the finish with your favorite materials.

Successful work!

Video - Warming the garage from the inside with your own hands