Insulation of a concrete garage from the inside. Proper insulation of the garage with your own hands

Today the car is essential element every other family.

Therefore the question secure shelter for this means of transportation is very acute, especially in regions with long cold winters.

The vast majority of motorists use for these purposes individual garages built from various materials.

For reliable protection from harsh climatic conditions, high-quality insulation of the garage is necessary. However, inside this building it is not required to maintain the temperature and microclimate as in a residential area. If the function of the garage is only to keep the car from frost and bad weather, it is enough to keep the temperature inside at a level of 5 - 10 degrees above zero.

Insulation of the garage, as a rule, is carried out from the inside, this is due with multiple factors:

1. During operation, there is no large temperature difference between the external environment and the interior of the garage, so the appearance of condensate will not be as significant and critical as in a residential area.
2. For anti-vandal purposes. Many garages are located at a considerable distance from residential buildings, in places where there is no proper supervision of them, so placing insulation outside is risky in terms of vandalism.
3. Often garages are built in a single row, close to each other, this excludes the physical possibility of insulation from the outside.

For complete insulation garage from the inside, it is necessary to carry out this process on all surfaces: ceiling, walls, floor and gates. In this case, various thermal insulation materials are used.

However most widespread received foam, and more modern due to its low cost, ease of installation, resistance to decay and moisture. In addition, the low environmental friendliness of these materials does not matter when used in a garage, due to the minimum time spent in this building.

Important: garages are buildings with an increased fire hazard, therefore, when choosing a material for garage insulation, it is important to use non-combustible grades, for example, PSB-S foam plastic, NG and G1 grade foam plastic.

Underfloor heating in the garage

As a rule, garages are built directly on the ground, in addition, the floor in the garage experiences high blood pressure, I am connected with a considerable mass of the car, therefore, floor insulation must be approached with special care:

1. If there is a concrete or floor, debris, sand and other foreign materials are carefully removed. The earthen floor is leveled, then tamped with a vibropress, or manually. A layer of sand 5–10 cm thick is poured on top, and it is also compacted. A concrete screed is poured over the sand cushion using reinforcement. Further work can be done after the concrete has completely hardened.
2. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared surface with a margin of 15 cm on the walls. It can be roofing material or a thick plastic film. The seams are carefully glued with synthetic sealant, or soldered. The material is carefully smoothed, folds in which moisture can accumulate are completely excluded.
3. Styrofoam or polystyrene sheets are laid directly on the waterproofing layer. To insulate the floor in the garage, it is important to use high-density slabs. These are stamps PSB - 35, PSB - 50 for foam and P-75 for foam. The thickness of the plates depends on the specific climatic conditions, usually 10 - 15 cm.
4. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation to protect against moisture from inside the garage. It can also be made of roofing material or polyethylene. Next, a reinforcing cage is installed and a concrete screed is poured, 5-7 cm thick, using a damper tape around the perimeter.

Important: when pouring a finishing concrete screed in the garage, it is advisable to make a slight slope from the side walls to the center of the floor, and the general slope - to the gate, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture during washing work.

Wall insulation in the garage

This process presents no difficulty and quite possible on their own.

At the same time, you will need material: or foam, glue or dowels with fungi, vapor barrier film, waterproofing material.

Of the tools needed: knife for cutting plates, perforator, screwdriver, bubble level 1 - 1.5 m, mounting gun with foam.

Mounting technology next:

1. The surface of the walls is cleaned of dust and dirt, treated with an anti-fungal and anti-corrosion (if the garage is iron) solution. It is desirable to cover the surface of the walls, especially iron, with a primer.
2. A waterproofing film is stretched and glued onto concrete or brick walls. It can be both special and roofing material or polyethylene. All joints are glued, the stock on the floor and ceiling - at least 15 cm. In an iron garage, waterproofing can be omitted.
3. The adhesive specially designed for polymer insulation is applied to the material slabs evenly over the entire slab. After that, the plates are glued to the wall directly on the waterproofing. Additionally, each element is fixed with 5 dowels with fungi around the perimeter and in the center. Plates are glued from bottom to top in horizontal rows by level. Dowels are not used in iron garages. The joints between the plates are carefully blown with mounting foam.
4. The thickness of the insulation boards must be at least 10 cm for the walls of a brick and concrete garage, at least 15 cm for an iron garage. In the northern regions, it is recommended to increase the thickness by one and a half to two times. If plates of smaller thickness are used, it is necessary to lay them in several layers in a cross way, completely smearing each subsequent layer with glue.
5. After mounting the foam or foam boards, a thick layer of glue is applied to them, completely over the area, with careful lubrication of all seams and joints. A special reinforcing mesh is applied on top of the glue and smeared with glue again. The total thickness of the final adhesive layer can be up to 15 mm.
6. After the glue has completely dried, the walls can be painted, plastered or finished with materials for interior decoration.

Important: if it is planned to build shelves or racks on the walls in the garage, it is necessary in advance, before proceeding with the insulation, to fix the supporting elements to the walls. It can be wooden blocks or metal staples.

Insulation of the roof or ceiling in the garage from the inside

The process resembles wall insulation, but there are some differences in depending on the type of floors:

1. Roof metal. Insulation is carried out completely according to the same technology as wall insulation in a metal garage.
2. Ceiling made of concrete floor slabs. In the usual case, the technology is the same as wall insulation. If it is planned to sheathe a concrete ceiling with finishing materials, it is necessary to first fix wooden logs or metal profiles to them after laying the waterproofing, between which polyethylene or foam slabs are already laid. Finishing sheets are attached after laying the insulation to the logs or profiles with self-tapping screws.
3. wooden roof. In this case, the first step is also the laying of a waterproofing membrane, which is attached to the elements of the crate using a construction stapler. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws with wide caps, sheets of foam or foam plastic, 10-15 cm thick, are attached to the crate. The joints are blown with mounting foam. When using polystyrene foam, it is advisable to lay a vapor barrier membrane on the insulation, which is attached to the rafters with a stapler. Then, also to the rafters, a counter-lattice of wooden boards or metal profiles is stuffed, to which sheets of interior decoration material are sewn.

Important: when insulating the roof and walls of the garage, it is better to use 2 layers of insulation in order to overlap the plates and completely close the joints.

Specifics of garage insulation with different materials

To insulate the garage from the inside, in addition to polystyrene and foam plastic, others are also used. thermal insulation materials:

1. When insulating an iron garage with mineral wool, you must always use a waterproofing membrane between the wall or roof and the insulation layer. At the same time, it is necessary to leave an air gap of 2-3 cm. In addition, a layer of vapor barrier must be laid on top of the mineral wool in order to avoid dampening of the material. The slabs are laid between a metal or wooden frame, which is attached to the iron wall with metal bolts or welding. The ideal solution to insulate the walls and roof of a metal garage, polyurethane foam or liquid foam will be used. In this case, there is no need to use steam and waterproofing.
2. concrete block garage requires a slightly smaller layer of thermal insulation than iron due to the presence of resistance to the cold of the concrete itself. It can also be insulated with mineral wool, using hydro and vapor barrier. Well, an excellent solution would be spraying polyurethane foam on all surfaces.
3. Brick, especially porous, has a lower thermal conductivity than concrete, so the thermal insulation layer can be one and a half times less. An excellent solution in a brick garage will be thermal insulation made of mineral wool, due to the good hygroscopicity of the brick.

The use of foam and foam will significantly reduce time and amount of work when insulating the garage. The ease and simplicity of installation allow you to carry out this process yourself, without the use of expensive materials and tools.

Do-it-yourself garage insulation must be remembered, that without a good heating system, the heat-insulating layer does not provide any particular benefit. Depending on the area and purpose of the garage, various heating systems can be used. You can read more about garage heating in the article "".

The material "" talks in detail about such an important point as the ventilation of the garage. Lack of proper ventilation in the garage can lead to to the appearance of fungi, mold, high humidity, which is especially critical for metal devices, which is a car.

About the insulation of the ceiling in the garage from the inside with your own hands, look at the video:

Preservation of heat is a prerequisite for any room that will be operated in the winter season. This is especially true for garage buildings that are open to "all winds" and, for the most part, are not suitable for installing central heating. Adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out by means of internal or external wall insulation, which allows you to keep the positive temperature indoors even in severe frosts.

Where to insulate: inside or outside?

To keep the heat inside the garage, it is necessary to create a screen of insulating material that will not let the cold in from the outside and keep the internal heat. The heat-insulating layer can be located both outside the building and inside - the principle of heat preservation is the same in both cases, however, each of the options has its own nuances that should be taken into account. External thermal insulation is more effective, as it does not allow the cold to reach the walls and does not affect the inside of the garage. But at the same time, this method of insulation is more expensive and time-consuming - the creation of a masking facade that will hide the insulation will be expensive.

Internal insulation reduces the internal area of ​​​​the garage by the thickness of the insulation material, but at the same time it is several times cheaper and does not require special skills for self-assembly. If your main goal is to directly prepare the garage for cold weather and you do not plan large-scale construction work, then this method of insulation will be the best solution.

Material selection

As a heater, almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, organic insulation, etc. In general, for the insulation of the garage, it is appropriate to use any of the above items, if you are guided by the principle "it will not get worse." However, if you have a choice, then it is better to familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages of various types of insulation in order to choose the name most suitable for a particular situation.

Polyfoam - universal insulation for the garage

• Styrofoam. Foam boards are characterized by low cost - this is the cheapest insulation material on the domestic market. Of the advantages of this material, an insignificant mass, moisture resistance and ease of processing stand out. The obvious disadvantages include a high fire hazard and a fragile structure.
• Styrofoam. It has all the technical advantages of polystyrene, but at the same time it is less combustible and more durable material. The price of the insulation is slightly higher than the foam analogue, but it does not go beyond the permissible limits.
• Mineral, basalt wool. A more perfect analogue of glass wool popular in the Soviet Union. Absolutely non-flammable material. The critical disadvantage of mineral wool is the fibrous structure, which absorbs water like a sponge - at high humidity, the insulation gets wet, losing its thermal insulation properties and contributing to the development of the fungus.
• Organic heater. An analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (linen, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic insulation is combustible.

Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in damp

The most suitable material for garage insulation, regardless of the material from which it is made, is a foam or polystyrene foam insulation, due to ease of installation, moisture resistance and reasonable price. Fibrous insulation is less preferred because of its structure, since it is far from always possible to maintain an optimal level of humidity in an unheated room. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton materials is categorically not recommended - their use is also appropriate, although not so preferable.

Important! If there is a stove, heater or other sources of heat in the garage, then the area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir location must be insulated with mineral wool to prevent fire and the release of toxins due to excessive heat.

Material calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the quadrature of the insulated area - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. Thus, you will get the number of square meters that need to be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its thermal insulation data.

Since the thermal insulation layer needs an outer shell, in addition to the insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumables for assembling and sheathing the frame. To form the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are quite easy to install. The calculation of the footage of the supporting profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between the supporting elements of the frame should not exceed 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The footage of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room multiplied by 2.

For sheathing the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant drywall, which includes moisture-repellent impregnation and antifungal additives - an inexpensive, fire-resistant and easy-to-process material. The calculation of the required number of sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of insulation material.

Important! Focusing on the data obtained, one should be aware of possible unforeseen situations and purchase material with a small margin, which on average is about 10-15% of the initial amount.

Insulation of the walls in the garage from the inside

Frame installation

Installation of the frame is necessary for the subsequent installation of decorative trim, which will hide the insulation from prying eyes. During the installation process, you will need the following tools:

• Hammer drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Scissors for metal;
• Level;

Ready frame for drywall

All fasteners in the wall are pre-drilled with a perforator drill, then dowel-screws are inserted into the holes, which are screwed with a screwdriver. The metal profile is easily cut with scissors for metal, in almost any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:

• First of all, guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor, into which the carrier profile will be inserted. They should be parallel to each other - first, the guide is mounted on the ceiling, and then, using a level or plumb line, the guide on the floor is adjusted. The indentation from the wall should allow the insulation to be placed so that it does not “push” the skin. A sealing tape must be placed between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a tighter connection.

Important! When fastening the profile, it is necessary to take into account the differences in the surface - it should not "lead" from excessive bending. Deep drops, especially if a dowel is clogged in them, must be smoothed out with stands, and the protruding parts must be removed.

• Before installing the supporting profiles, supporting brackets-suspensions are mounted on the wall, which stiffen the entire structure. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent to form a "P" shaped figure into which the supporting profile will be inserted. Suspensions are located along a strictly vertical line, which is measured by means of a plumb line or level. The step between the vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the larger the step, the weaker the structure.

Important! If necessary, you can choose the step between the guides arbitrarily, within the mentioned values, however, in this case, you will have to constantly adjust the drywall sheets, since their standard width is 140 cm.

• On suspensions, carrier profiles are inserted into the guides. Fixing in guides and suspensions is carried out by means of a screwdriver and small screws for metal. The common plane is adjusted by means of a rule, or along a fishing line stretched between the extreme profiles.
• Between the carriers, with a similar pitch, transverse frame elements are installed, which are made of a profile - they are necessary to strengthen the structure. As a locking connection, you can use single-level crab connectors or simply cut off the sides of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the supporting profile.

Attaching the profile to the hanger

Waterproofing

Fibrous insulation is very sensitive to moisture - in this case, waterproofing is indispensable. To avoid getting the cotton wool wet, it is necessary to create an airtight, waterproof layer between the wall and the insulation. For this purpose, a membrane film or any other flexible waterproof material is used. After the frame is fully assembled, it is covered with waterproofing material. The film should not be stretched, it should lie freely, fastening to the profile is carried out by means of brackets. The main thing is to create an airtight barrier for condensate - the overlap between the edges of the strips should be at least 10 cm. The junction is glued with adhesive tape.

Thinking about the need for waterproofing, one should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from a small amount of moisture that can seep from the outside. It is insurance against unforeseen situations, and not a panacea - if there is increased humidity in the garage from the side of the walls, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work on external waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution to the problem.

Insulation installation

Wall insulation with foam

Before proceeding with the insulation, the walls must be cleaned of strongly protruding elements: fittings, metal fasteners, etc. If there are through cracks in the wall, then they must be covered with concrete or plaster mortar (sand 1: 2 cement based on the mass of the components) to remove drafts.

The installation process of the insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam with a block form factor can be mounted with glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with the help of self-tapping dowels. Wall insulation with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out in the following order:

• The walls are cleaned of dust and primed with a special composition to improve adhesion (degree of "stickiness"). After the primer is completely dry, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation.
• The insulation is mounted from the bottom up, the sheets must be cut exactly under the opening between the supporting profiles. The adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the insulation using a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very light, there is no need to additionally press or fix the block until the adhesive is completely cured.
• After the glue has set, the blocks can be additionally fixed with self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps or bolts if the garage is assembled from sheet iron.

Installation of mineral wool or its varieties is carried out by means of self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps, which fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The warming process is carried out as follows:

• Before installation, in the lower part of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or rail so that the wool does not touch the floor and does not absorb moisture.
• The insulation is cut so that the width of the strips exceeds the width of the opening between the supporting profiles by 1–2 cm.
• The mats are driven into the openings between the profiles, there should not be any gaps or voids. The insulation is fixed with dowel-screws with plastic caps or bolts, if the garage is made of sheet iron.

In this case, a design is meant in which the profile is pressed tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is large enough, then a solid heat-insulating coating is formed, in which recesses are cut out for fastening the frame.

Sheathing the finished frame with drywall

Drywall sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The sheets must be positioned so that the edge falls exactly in the middle of the carrier profile.. The distance between the screws should not exceed 20 cm, while the hats must be sunk into the surface by about 1 mm. First of all, whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. Drywall cutting is carried out using a clerical knife - the sheet is cut deeply on one side, and then simply breaks in the opposite direction from the cut.

Related videos

Do-it-yourself gate insulation

Styrofoam door insulation

The iron gates of the garage let in not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes through and does not protect against frost. To insulate the gate from the inside, it is necessary to assemble a frame for sheathing. It is most convenient to use wood as a material - a frame is assembled from a bar, reinforced with intermediate inserts. The beam is attached to the gate by means of metal screws.

Wooden frame assembly

Insulation sheets should preferably be glued to the door surface to avoid condensation on the metal surface. In connection with this circumstance, the use of foam or expanded polystyrene is more preferable. After installing the insulation, the frame is sheathed with plywood, tin, etc. In the event that the profile of the gate implies the presence of an internal cavity sufficient for installing a heater, then you can do without installing a frame. Since the sheet insulation has a low weight, if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and sheathing. In this case, you will have to be more careful when operating the gate, since unprotected thermal insulation will be easily damaged by careless action.

ceiling queue

Laying insulation on the ceiling of the garage

An uninsulated ceiling is the biggest gap in the thermal insulation of a room. Unlike walls, it is more expedient to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic - the insulation will be more effective and there is no need to form a decorative sheathing that “eats up” usable space and finances. As a heater, it is better to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, although mineral wool in this case will also be quite appropriate.

The external insulation of the garage is not particularly difficult - waterproofing is laid on the surface of the attic and the insulation sheets are simply laid without cracks and voids. The thickness of the insulation material must be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense heat-insulating layer, without the so-called cold bridges - mounting foam is used to fill joints or hard-to-reach places.

Floor

Expanded clay for floor insulation in the garage

If the floor is formed from monolithic concrete, it also intensively "sucks" heat from the room. The only rational solution, in this case, is to fill in the heat-insulating material (expanded clay) and form a new concrete screed. Alternative methods of insulation in this case are inappropriate, since the coating must support the weight of the car. Ideally, the thermal insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of the construction of the building, since in any other case it will either have to break the old coating or form thermal insulation on top of it, which implies raising the floor by 15 - 20 cm.

If the garage has already been built, then you will have to proceed from the already existing circumstances - the best option would be to completely break the concrete screed in order to free up enough space for the insulation backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old coating. Expanded clay, if possible, it is better to acquire heterogeneous (fine and medium) or medium fractions in order to reduce the likelihood of voids. To form a screed, you will need cement and sand. The order of work is as follows:

• A site is being prepared for filling the insulation. The insulation layer should be at least 10 cm thick, optimally about 20-30 cm. You should also take into account the layer of concrete screed, which is formed at least 5 cm thick. The site should be as flat as possible so that the backfill is uniform.
• A layer of waterproofing is laid on the ground or the old coating so that the expanded clay granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose, you can use various materials: from roofing material to a dense plastic film.
• Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing in an even layer. To evenly distribute expanded clay, the surface is leveled with a rule or a long level.
• To strengthen the insulation granules, a cement mortar is used - the cement is mixed with water to a homogeneous substance, which should not be too liquid or thick. The resulting mixture is poured over the top layer of expanded clay so that the cement penetrates into the voids between the granules.
• After the cement mixture is completely dry, the concrete screed is poured. The concrete mortar consists of cement and sand, in a ratio of 60/40 based on the mass of the components. In the manufacture of concrete mortar, it is easiest to focus on the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement shade. A rule is used to level the flooded area. The surface of the screed is smoothed with a spatula or small.

Important! In this case, Portland cement M400 is meant - the lower the grade, the more cement will be required and vice versa. But at the same time, one should not forget that the principle “the more the better” is inappropriate in this case, since an excess of cement will disrupt the structure of the screed.

Alignment of expanded clay by the rule

Since the area of ​​​​the garage is basically not large, it is quite possible to form a screed "by eye". But if you want to get a perfectly flat surface, then you need to install beacons. As beacons, you can use a profile, pipes and any other material with a smooth edge. Beacons are set by means of a level, thus limiting marks are created that indicate the level of a perfectly flat plane.

Installing beacons is quite simple - along the edges of the room, by means of a hydraulic level, extreme profiles are installed, then a fishing line is pulled between them, which determines the level of intermediate elements. The main thing is to firmly fix the beacons so that no displacement occurs during pouring. Concrete mortar with a small addition of alabaster is best suited for this purpose. Lighthouses need to be fixed pointwise, and not along the entire length.

Important! The addition of alabaster to the concrete mortar significantly reduces the period of its solidification - the count can go up to tens of seconds. You should not dilute too much, otherwise you will not physically have time to work it out.

Cellar

If there is a cellar in the garage, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good thermal insulation of the room. Installation of insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main room, with the difference that the cellar ceiling is insulated from the inside.

Ceiling insulation procedure:

The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as for floor insulation in the garage. After the completion of work in the cellar, the level of humidity will rise greatly, so it is necessary to consider a high-quality ventilation system.

Garage insulation allows you to keep the positive temperature in the room without central heating. The only thing to remember is that you should not make the room completely airtight in order to prevent an increase in humidity. The garage must have ventilation to remove moisture from melted snow, rain and other things that the car will bring with it during bad weather.

Even 10-15 years ago, garages were built without insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. Therefore, in the cold season, it was impossible to use the room in full. With the advent of modern and inexpensive heaters, garage construction and finishing technologies have reached a new qualitative level. It became possible to insulate the garage with your own hands.

There are two ways:

• Garage insulation from the outside. This is not always possible in garages, where the outer wall of the insulated garage is the inner wall of the neighboring building.
• Warming the walls of the garage from the inside. Can be performed at any location of the building.

Garages are often insulated from the inside. Before you start work, you need to calculate the dew point. If this parameter is not taken into account, then the walls will get wet, a fungus will appear.

Before you insulate the garage from the inside, you need to figure out what materials are used. Find out their positive and negative properties.

The interior space of the garage consists of the floor, walls, ceiling and gate. Each is insulated separately:

• we insulate the walls with foam, mineral wool, plaster, penoizol (liquid foam), polyurethane foam;
• expanded clay is used for the floor, less often polystyrene;
• foam, penoizol or mineral wool is used for the ceiling;
• gates are sheathed with foam.

An important indicator for all materials of this group is thermal conductivity. Below is a summary table of averages:

Insulation of the garage from the inside is not made of blocks. New boxes for cars are being built from them.

Lightweight porous insulation for the floor or foundation of the garage, refers to cheap materials. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is about 1.5 times higher than that of polystyrene, but 10 times lower than that of brickwork. This puts it in the middle positions in terms of thermal protection. Not used in garage wall insulation.

Burnt expanded clay has a water absorption coefficient of not more than 20%, It is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, does not burn. Expanded clay is harmless to the body, as it does not emit harmful fumes.

Mineral wool

This is a class of artificial insulation with a fibrous structure. It consists of rocks, glass and slag. Insulation of garage walls from the inside with mineral wool is very common due to its high thermal insulation characteristics. According to this indicator, mineral wool is on par with polystyrene foam. It absorbs sound waves well, practically does not burn. Basalt mineral wool has high compressive strength.

The only negative is the high coefficient of water absorption. It is possible to insulate walls with its help only with the condition of subsequent plastering or other hermetic sealing of the surface.

Styrofoam

The most effective, cheapest and most popular garage insulation. It consists of small granules, reliably and hermetically soldered together. Do-it-yourself garage foam insulation from the inside is the most energy-efficient method.

Styrofoam has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. It does not absorb water and does not pass steam. It is a lightweight material that does not weaken the load-bearing capacity of a wall, ceiling or gate.

Styrofoam enters into a chemical reaction with many chemicals. It cannot be used in aggressive environments. Styrofoam releases hazardous phenolic compounds during combustion.

Styrofoam

According to the installation method, it practically does not differ from polystyrene foam. It has a lower water absorption coefficient, higher density. Insulating a garage from the inside with polystyrene foam is more expensive than a similar operation from polystyrene foam.

Penoizol

This is an analogue of foam for walls, which is applied in liquid form. Penoizol does not differ from polystyrene in heat-conducting characteristics. He has a burning class G-1. It absorbs water well, but does not accumulate in itself, but evaporates into the atmosphere. Penoizol is a hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation.

Do-it-yourself garage insulation

Most of the garages are built of brick or foam block. Therefore, the question often arises of how to insulate a brick garage, and not a metal one.

The work is divided into several stages:

• walls;
• gates;
• ceiling.

Walls

Do-it-yourself garage insulation is primarily wall cladding. Most of the heat is lost through them. So how to insulate the walls in a brick garage?

Wall cladding with styrofoam sheets

This is the answer to the question of how to insulate a garage cheaply.

• The walls are stripped of old plaster and paint. All irregularities are covered with cement-sand mortar.
• After drying, the walls are impregnated with soil or an antiseptic to kill mold and mildew.
• Then sheets of foam plastic 100 mm thick are glued. To do this, use a notched trowel and special glue.
• After 24 hours, a plaster mesh is attached to the foam. To do this, throw a little solution and press the stack into it.
• Then the surface is plastered and puttied. You can use both ready-made facade plaster in bags, and cement-sand mortar M150. It is better not to waste energy on independent mixing of the solution, but to buy ready-made dry mixes.

Installation of insulation on the frame

A more expensive, but effective and reliable way to insulate garage walls:

• The surface of the walls is cleaned, all bulges are removed. Potholes and cracks are expanded and sealed with a cement-sand mortar.
• An antiseptic or deep penetration primer is applied to the walls with a roller. Thus, mold and fungus are destroyed.
• After drying, the walls are sheathed with a polyethylene film or membrane vapor barrier.
• Using a laser level, two horizontal guides are installed. One goes along the floor, the other under the ceiling. For this, a wooden beam 100 × 50 mm or a metal profile is used. They are attached to the wall with anchors or self-tapping dowels.
• Vertical guides are installed in increments of 600-800 mm. Absolute precision is not needed here. Therefore, for installation, you can use the usual level or plumb line. Vertical guides are made of timber 100×50 mm or metal profile. They are attached to the wall in the same way as the horizontal rails.
• Insulation sheets are inserted between the bars. If foam is used, then it is attached to the glue. Then additional fixing of the sheets is provided with the help of plastic dowels in the form of a mushroom. The consumption rate per sheet is 5-6 pieces. The seams are sealed with mounting foam.

If dense basalt mineral wool is used, then glue is not required. It is enough to fix with plastic dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed with pieces of mineral wool.

For walls sheathed with mineral wool, a second layer of waterproofing is required on the interior side. Styrofoam does not need additional protection against moisture.

• For sheathing, lining or profiled sheet is used. Which material to choose, a matter of taste of each person.

More labor and material costs will be required for wall cladding with sheets of drywall or cement-bonded particle board. They are attached to the frame using wood or metal screws 30-40 mm. Then the joints between the sheets are glued with a mesh and puttied. At the final stage, the walls are puttied and painted.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam requires the involvement of third-party hired construction organizations. It is impossible to do the work with your own hands.

Floor

Basically, the thermal insulation of the garage floor is carried out by two materials: expanded clay or foam. As a coating, a cement-sand screed is used.

Thermal insulation of the floor with expanded clay

• A hole 250-300 mm deep is dug around the perimeter of the garage. The bottom is leveled and beacons are installed in several places. To obtain the mounting horizon, a laser or water level is used.
• The bottom of the pit is covered with roofing material or plastic wrap. A 300 mm bend is made on all sides.
• Expanded clay falls asleep. The thickness of the layer is equal to the depth of the pit. After backfilling, the surface is leveled according to the beacons using the rule. The beacons are then removed.
• A frame made of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is laid on top of the expanded clay. It can be bought or assembled directly at the construction site. To do this, the reinforcing bars are cut to size and laid out crosswise. Cell size 100-150 mm. The rods are connected to each other with a knitting wire.
• A beacon profile is laid on the grid with a step of 600 mm.
• A cement-sand screed is poured. The solution can be ordered or kneaded on site. The fill starts from the far corner. Layer thickness 100-120 mm. After pouring, the floor surface is equal to the rule. After 48 hours, the screed can be wiped off. For this, a trowel and a small amount of solution are used.

The period of complete drying of the screed is 28 days. Work on further insulation can be started 7 days after pouring. To avoid the appearance of cracks, the screed is shed with water every 12 hours for 3 days.

Styrofoam floor insulation

An option when you do not need to dig a pit. Insulation can be laid on the old coating:

• The old coating is cleaned of dirt. If there are large potholes, they are sealed.
• A plastic film or roofing material is laid on the floor. This is a layer of waterproofing.
• Sheets of extruded foam with a density of at least C-25 are laid on the finished base. The thickness of the insulation layer should be 100 mm. It is possible to lay casts in one layer with a thickness of 100 mm. It is much more reliable to use 50 mm foam, laying the sheets in two layers.

All joints are sealed with mounting foam.

• From above, the foam is covered with a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing felt. On each side there is an overlap on the wall of 100 mm.
• A reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 100-120 mm is laid on the waterproofing. The mesh is laid on small veins, so the solution can flow under it.
• A screed is poured over the grid. The technology of the device of the supporting base is no different.

Gates

Metal garage doors are the main source of heat loss. If you completely insulate the perimeter, but do not touch the gate, then the work will be done in vain. Before starting the insulation, you can build an additional curtain. To do this, you need two wooden slats and dense reinforced polyethylene.

The first rail is attached above the gate. The film is cut into strips 200-300 mm wide and 20 mm long less than the distance from the rail to the floor. Then the strips are nailed overlapping each other. The second rail is stuffed on the first. It turns out a reliable fastening.

The curtain is ready, you can proceed directly to the insulation of the gates:

• The inside of the garage door is covered with plastic wrap.
• A frame is assembled from a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm. It is screwed to the gate leaf with metal screws. Previously, wooden bars are treated with an antiseptic.

The thickness of the beam for the frame should always correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

• Styrofoam sheets are inserted into the resulting frame. They are glued to the inner surface of the gate with glue. It must be chosen carefully, since the foam can enter into a chemical reaction with the glue and collapse. Sheets are pressed as tightly as possible to the surface of the gate.
• Butt joints are sealed with mounting foam.
• From above, the foam is sewn up with a clapboard or profiled sheet using self-tapping screws with a drill.

Ceiling

According to the production technology, the insulation of the ceiling does not differ from the insulation of the walls. Insulation sheets are attached to the cells of the frame made of wood or metal and sewn up with clapboard, drywall or any other finishing material.

Video: garage insulation

In this article, detailed instructions on how to properly insulate your garage. How to do the work cheaply, but with the best materials. The main thing is to follow the advice, take your time and thoughtfully approach each stage of finishing. Then the result will not keep you waiting.

Garage insulation is a kind of guarantee of a long life of your car. Sudden temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensate, which violates the anti-corrosion protection of the metal and thus causes significant damage to the car. To achieve optimal performance, you just need to insulate the garage and worry about heating it. Today we will talk about the materials and options for insulating the garage and how to insulate the garage with your own hands.

The need to insulate the walls of the garage

The walls of the garage, as a rule, are made relatively thin: when using a cinder block - about 200 millimeters, for brick walls - 250 millimeters, and sometimes 120 millimeters. Of course, such a wall cannot become a serious protection against cold air. And heating a metal garage is generally meaningless. No matter how you drown, in severe frost, only condensation will appear on the wall, and then, when using a very powerful heater.

The question of the need to insulate the garage is not subject to discussion. However, one should not overdo it here. Many car owners believe that in winter, inside the shelter for the car, the temperature should be maintained at close to twenty degrees above zero, because these are the indicators that are usually observed in residential buildings. However, what is comfortable for the driver can be detrimental to the condition of the car.

Remember that high temperatures for iron aggregates are not at all useful! The car, getting from frost to warmth, quickly becomes covered with condensate, and such moisture will gradually lead to the destruction of the car body and the appearance of rust. Therefore, thoughtless warming of the garage will not only not bring benefits to the car, but only great harm.

It is necessary to insulate the room so that the car is stored at positive temperatures, and at the same time the temperature difference in the garage and outside the windows is minimal. The optimal atmosphere for the safety of the car is considered to be plus five degrees. This temperature will be comfortable for the car. And if the driver is cold, then you can sometimes use the heater.

When planning the insulation of walls in the garage, motorists make another mistake. They close up all, without exception, holes through which cold air can seep. Often, within the framework of such insulation, ventilation holes are also clogged, which absolutely cannot be blocked.

The combustion products of engine fuel will constantly accumulate in the garage. Carbon monoxide is dangerous to humans. Therefore, it is important to provide ventilation or exhaust so that harmful compounds can leave the room. Without ventilation, you will also not be able to get rid of excess moisture. And in winter, a lot of ice and snow accumulate on the bottom and wheels of the car, which quickly melt.

Another important indicator is thermal inertia, which determines the rate at which the surface temperature of a structure changes over time. It is desirable to equip the garage insulation in such a way that the thermal inertia of the enclosing structure increases from the outside to the inside, and the thermal conductivity of the heat-insulating materials that make up this structure, on the contrary, decreases. Insulation with such a scheme "will not let" cold air into the shelter in winter, and heat in summer.

When insulating the walls of the garage, the question arises - to insulate from the inside or outside. Many will initially answer you that you need to fix the heat-insulating material from the outside, since it takes up a certain space from the inside. However, the choice should not be limited to one space. There are several other arguments in favor of external insulation.

There are always risks of freezing of walls in winter with internal thermal insulation. No matter how expensive the insulation you buy, it will still emit harmful fumes into the room. Therefore, it is better to fix the insulation from the outside. Well, if you decide to insulate the basement and garage from the inside, then do not buy cheap thermal insulation materials and be sure to provide good forced ventilation.

Garage wall insulation materials

There are many options on the market for thermal insulation materials that are suitable for garage insulation - from traditional and well-known to ultra-modern. Let's look at the main ones.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool helps to qualitatively insulate the walls of the garage, without disturbing the natural "breathing" inside the room. For external insulation with mineral wool, it is customary to use rigid mats that have a density of 200-240 kilograms per cubic meter, and for internal thermal insulation - soft and semi-rigid mats with a density of about 120-180 kilograms per cubic meter.

Basalt mineral wool is considered the best, which demonstrates record thermal conductivity and sound absorption. However, remember that for insulation with mineral wool from the inside, the heat-insulating material should be protected with a vapor barrier so that the insulation from the environment does not pick up moisture and subsequently lose its abilities.

glass wool

Glass wool is cheaper than mineral wool, by about 20-25%. However, it is necessary to work with it only in special gloves, because the fibers are very sharp and hard, and you can injure your hands and eyes. In addition, if water gets on the material during installation, then you can safely throw it away, since it will not work out to dry.

After wetting, the fibers become heavy and crumple, losing their heat-insulating qualities forever and releasing a constantly unpleasant odor. Therefore, the glass wool insulation cake will have to be completely insulated with foil or films.

Styrofoam

This polymer heat insulator is a favorite heat-insulating material that is used when insulating a garage with your own hands, as it is convenient and easy to install, has a low weight, can be processed with an ordinary hacksaw, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and is affordable. The most popular type of foam is polystyrene foam, because it is vapor and waterproof, and its useful life reaches 40 years.

However, foam plastic also has its drawbacks - it is not able to pass air and is considered a combustible material, therefore it is recommended to choose a self-extinguishing PSB-S, which goes out after neutralizing the fire source within 4 seconds. And, regardless of the fact that he is not afraid of either chemistry or water, he is still afraid of the sun - the foam turns yellow and crumbles under its influence.

Reflective thermal insulation

Reflective thermal insulation is the latest development in the energy saving environment. It is made in the form of a rolled material, which is covered on one side with a layer of foamed polyurethane foam, and on the other - with polished foil. This type of insulation is recognized as the best solution for internal garage insulation in terms of saving usable space. The thickness of the insulation is minimal - 2-5 millimeters.

This also allows you to create a facing layer, in contrast to the use of traditional thermal insulation materials, the minimum thickness of which is 50 millimeters. With the addition of internal, facing and decorative layers, it runs to the total amount minus 10-15 centimeters. However, you will be disappointed that ultra-thin reflective thermal insulation acts as a “mirror” to reflect infrared heat radiation. It is ineffective with its convection and induction, which are the main culprits of the greatest heat loss.

"Warm" plaster

This is a plaster of an unusual composition, which contains special fillers, such as expanded vermiculite, sawdust and expanded polystyrene "balls", which give it thermal insulation properties. However, to get a really serious warm effect, you need to apply a very thick and heavy layer of plaster on the walls of the garage, so it should be combined with other types of insulation, as shown in the photo of the garage insulation.

Thermal insulation paint

Those car owners who value not only comfort, but also an attractive appearance, are suitable for liquid heat insulators made from acrylic polymers with the addition of synthetic rubber and organic pigments. In appearance, such a substance resembles ordinary paint, which has amazing thermal insulation properties: a layer of thermal insulation paint of 1 millimeter replaces 50 millimeters of mineral wool.

Thermal insulation paints show good adhesion to metal, plastic and wood. Therefore, warm paints are considered an ideal solution for insulating a garage from a bar, because the heat insulator is able to create a vapor-permeable coating and allows the wall to "breathe", eliminating waterlogging of the inside of the structure and protecting the garage from the damaging effects of moisture. The technology for applying such a heat insulator is simplified as much as possible.

Insulation of garage walls from the outside

Let's start the insulation of the garage from the walls. Styrofoam is excellent for insulating brick walls in terms of quality / price ratio. Only, in places where high temperatures are possible (equipment or heating stoves), mineral wool boards should be used instead of fusible plastic.

With external insulation of the walls of the garage with polystyrene foam, you can avoid the contact of the temperature difference in winter, which leads to the appearance of moisture at the junction of the insulation with the surface. Therefore, to eliminate this effect when the walls are insulated with foam, it is necessary to equip the room with forced ventilation, ensuring its continuous operation.

To begin with, it is worth preparing the surface for attaching the foam. The walls should be pre-cleaned of dirt, old plaster, oil stains and dust, and deep cracks and chips should be covered with plaster. So that the insulation of the garage does not bring any problems in the future, the base must be strong and clean. It is also desirable to prime the surface of the walls to increase adhesion with glue.

To insulate the shelter, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam, which has a 25th strength and a thickness of 5 centimeters. The solution can be applied to the sheet using the “blot” method, then pressed tightly against the wall. However, spot application from the worker requires some skill. Therefore, the "slab" method of applying glue should be used in order to exclude the occurrence of the smallest gaps between the surface and the slab. In this case, the solution is applied to the foam using a notched trowel.

When insulating a brick garage, foam sheets should be laid in a checkerboard pattern, pressing them well together. The wall is covered with foam sheets from the bottom up. It is necessary to lay the first row on the initial bar attached to the surface with dowels. After the glue dries, each element of the masonry is usually additionally fixed with three plastic dowels.

Styrofoam by its nature is characterized by low strength. And the structure of heaters, which are made on the basis of various kinds of fibers, makes them also susceptible to saturation with water, which significantly reduces the heat-shielding properties of the heat-insulating material. All this requires the creation of additional protection of thermal "armor".

It is advisable to protect the insulation with a layer of plaster reinforced for strength with a fiberglass mesh. To install the mesh panel, the surface of the foam must be covered with glue of 3-5 millimeters. After that, the mesh is pressed in strips and overlapped into the adhesive and completely covered with adhesive. For the purpose of plastering, decorative facade plaster is used.

After that, the surface is primed to "preserve" the porous surface and covered in several layers with facade paint. Siding and other facing materials are also suitable for external protection - moisture-resistant DSP and GKL, gypsum-fiber sheets, various plastics. If you prefer sheet materials, then remember that they must be fastened using a frame.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside is rarely used, but if you have chosen this particular method of thermal insulation of the walls, then it should be carried out in that order. The first step is to prepare the surface by cleaning the wall. With the help of drywall, you need to make a false partition, and you will put a heat insulator into its frame.

To create such a frame, standard UD guides and wall CD profiles are used. UD racks are fastened with dowels to the ceiling and floor in increments of 25-30 centimeters. Then, CD profiles are installed every 60 centimeters with the help of special suspensions that are mounted in the wall with a step of 30 centimeters, to which drywall will need to be attached - the last facing layer.

You can also use not only drywall, but also asbestos fiber for sheathing the walls of the garage. The latter option is preferable, since such sheets have increased fire resistance compared to drywall. However, asbestos fiber is more fragile, so you need to take a step near the frame more often. Place the selected insulation between the wall and the sheathing.

Usually, cotton wool insulation is used for internal insulation of garage walls, since there will be more trouble with polystyrene. In the middle of the partitions, you need to insert mineral or glass wool, attaching it to the surface with special hooks. Then a vapor barrier must be laid over the profiles. To do this, it is better to take a membrane, which should be laid end-to-end with a cotton wool insulation.

From the outside, it is recommended to plaster the “box” of the garage with “warm” plaster or cover it with heat-insulating paint. So you can move the dew point to the outside of the walls, which will protect them from future moisture and freezing. It is also necessary to equip forced ventilation, designed for an intensive level of air exchange.

An effective method of insulating an iron garage from the inside is to apply liquid thermal insulation - foamed polyurethane or liquid paint-insulators. For example, you can buy isolate, thermos paint and others. Liquid foam is a foamy mass, which is made directly at the construction site through the use of special equipment - foam generators. Such foam, when applied to the walls of the garage, turns into a hard crust, which has excellent adhesion.

The simplest and most inexpensive way to insulate the walls of an iron garage is to attach foam plates to glue. The main thing at the same time is to clean and degrease the metal surface well so that the sheets of heat-insulating material stick and hold securely. The gaps that remain between the sheets are carefully blown out with mounting foam. The surface of the insulation can then be painted. However, remember that these materials are highly flammable and, when ignited, release many toxic substances into the air.

Garage door insulation

When insulating the walls of the garage, pay attention to the gate, because they are large, and through them the shelter loses a lot of heat. If the gate is not insulated, it will be quite difficult to heat the garage. To begin with, it is worth making a small door in one leaf so as not to open a huge gate every time. Next to the gate, you can hang a curtain made of plastic or dense fabric, which is able to keep some of the heat in the room.

It is better to take transparent plastic for this, so that the driver can see where he is going when leaving the garage. It is recommended to use a thick (minimum 0.8 mm) polyethylene film. Cut the material into strips of such length that, when fastened over the doorway from the inside, they do not reach a centimeter to the floor. The width of the strips should be close to 20-30 centimeters.

Unnecessarily narrow stripes can cling to protruding parts of the car, for example, outside mirrors, wide ones will be uncomfortable. Attach the strips with a stapler on a wooden rail so that one strip overlaps another 1.5-2 centimeters, or a little more. The strips should hang evenly under their own weight, and when deflected, they should quickly return to their place.

Garage door panels are best insulated with foam. Warming, as already mentioned, is desirable to carry out from the outside, but for the gate it will be problematic to do so. On the inside, it is necessary to attach the crate, then fill with foam all the gaps in it. In order to prevent the entry of low-temperature air masses into the room through the gaps that are formed at the junction of the gate, it should be treated with adhesive tape.

To eliminate drafts, you can use rubber seals. Since the insulation from the inside of the garage door causes condensation to form at the points of contact between the metal and the insulation, the canvases must be covered with anti-corrosion protection. Having made the waterproofing of the gate, you need to attach a frame to them, which will act as the basis for the sheathing.

At the same time, prime the frame parts to protect them from warping and fungus, for which heated drying oil is suitable, and clean the foam layer, covering it with a durable material. Sheathing is recommended to be done with a thin board or OSB. It is not recommended to use moisture resistant materials, for example, GKL.

Garage roof insulation

If the garage is built separately from the house, you will have to insulate all its structures, and not just the walls, including the roof. After all, heated air is lighter than cold air and rises, penetrating through building structures and melting snow on the roof. The method of fastening foam sheets depends on the design of the floor. If the roof is made of boards, then it is worth “grabbing” the material with “umbrella” dowels or ordinary nails, and then closing it with sheet materials, attaching them to the plank base with long screws.

If the garage is covered with a concrete slab, to insulate the concrete garage from the inside, or rather its roof, you will need a frame that is attached to the slabs using metal corners and self-tapping screws that are screwed into plastic dowels. The foam must be laid along the frame, securing it with adhesive tape, and then pressing it with a sheathing that is attached to the frame.

The foam plastic does not let moisture through, so it makes no sense to perform its vapor and waterproofing. But when using fiber insulation, additional measures are required related to protection from moisture. From the side of the roof, waterproofing must be laid, and from the side of the garage, vapor barrier, which prevents the penetration of moisture in the form of steam.

If desired, additional antiseptic and decorative treatment can be performed: paint the plaster with lime, chalk or water-based compositions, coat DSP and GKL with oil or acrylic paints, having previously sealed the seams with putty.

Ceiling insulation in a shelter for a car can be done according to a different scheme. Create for this and insulate the ceiling so that an attic appears in the garage. The floor of the attic is fixed on wooden beams. On the boards, a crate is created for the insulation boards, then the heat-insulating material is laid. In conclusion, boards are placed on top of the structure so that you can move around the attic.

It is not always necessary to insulate the floor in the garage. Often they arrange a basement under the garage for storing canned food and vegetables. If there is no cellar, then it is necessary to isolate the room from frozen and wet soil. To do this, deepen the floor by 30 centimeters, level it, then fill it with crushed stone by 10 centimeters, equip a sand cushion of 5 centimeters on top, tamp it down, pour it with hot bitumen and make a concrete screed, which is reinforced with an iron mesh.

Attempts to heat the garage without carrying out comprehensive insulation work lead to unnecessary costs for firewood, coal, electricity, etc. In addition, it does not get warmer in the room on winter days. If the garage is not heated at all, the temperature inside is practically the same as outside. It is worth remembering that with each start at -20 ° C, the engine wears out much faster. To make the garage more comfortable, you need to take care of proper thermal insulation.

How to insulate a garage without spending a lot of money? To do this, you should get acquainted with popular materials and insulation technologies. Comprehensive protection of the premises from the cold involves the processing of the ceiling, walls and floor.

Insulation options

To decide on the technology of how to insulate a garage from the inside, you will need to evaluate all the positive and negative aspects of various materials. Usually car owners are guided by their budget. It is also necessary to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the garage insulation, which takes into account the average temperature indicators of the region. The thickness of the garage walls and their ability to conduct temperature are also taken into account.

For example, aerated concrete walls have many air pores, which in themselves effectively prevent heat loss. Metal frame garages are less practical in this regard.

There are several options for insulating a garage:

• internal;
• external;
• combined.

The latter option is more expensive. The external insulation of the garage is more suitable for structures that are prone to moisture accumulation. These include timber frame structures and porous concrete structures. Brick garages are best protected from the outside. However, the device of a heat-insulating layer from the inside is much cheaper. The main thing is to take into account the safety of the materials used when insulating the garage.

Roof insulation

Separately, it is worth figuring out how to properly insulate the roof of the garage. Through it there are considerable heat losses. The method of insulation depends on the configuration of the garage roof:

• Flat with a slight slope. For such a roof, laying insulation from above will be required. Styrofoam boards are best suited for this. From above they are covered with waterproofing.
• Pitched. It is insulated with mineral wool or the same foam. In the first case, fitting the heat-insulating material in size is not required.
• If the building has a cold attic, we insulate the garage floor with glass wool. Such thermal insulation is inexpensive and reliable. It is important that the roofing material does a good job of protecting the garage attic from getting wet. Efficient ventilation must also be provided.

For thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the garage, you can also use mineral wool and polymer insulation boards. Thanks to this solution, cold bridges and gaps are excluded. From the side of the room, the insulation should be protected by a vapor barrier film.

How to insulate the garage ceiling from the inside cheaply and quickly? Often, car owners follow simple schemes:

• Creating a false ceiling and filling the resulting space with heat-insulating material.
• Attaching plates or pieces of heat-insulating material directly to the ceiling of the garage in a way specially designed for this.

When using foam, it should be fixed to the ceiling with liquid nails. Next, you need to close the material with a vapor barrier, install guides and nail plywood. Any lightweight material can be used instead.

If you want to insulate the ceiling from concrete floor slabs, you will need to mount the skeleton of the guides on metal corners. Adhesives will not help in this case. The corners are attached to screws placed in plastic dowels. It is quite difficult to insulate a garage from the inside with your own hands, however, if you follow the technology, mistakes can be avoided.

Types of materials

When choosing materials for garage walls, you should get acquainted with the main types of insulation. According to their properties and characteristics, they are quite diverse. Most heaters are made from waste paper, glass, metal. Under certain conditions, some of them become unsafe.

Attention! Sellers rarely talk about it, but the more hidden tricks the insulation is fraught with, the cheaper it is.

Among the popular heaters are glass wool, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and cellulose insulation. To figure out how to insulate an iron garage, you should get acquainted with the features of each material.

glass wool

The material is produced in the form of rolls or plates. It retains heat quite effectively, but is potentially harmful to health. Also, glass wool is resilient and resistant to aggressive chemicals.

During any manipulations with glass wool, microscopic dust particles begin to rise into the air - needles that can irritate the skin, mucous membranes of the eyes and lungs. For this reason, it is necessary to work with gloves, a mask and glasses.

Glass wool is indispensable in rooms where a heating system in the form of a boiler or stove is installed. In this case, the insulation will reliably protect the walls from fire.

Mineral wool

It is made from molten stone, waste from the metallurgical industry. With its properties, it resembles glass wool, but its heat resistance is much higher. The material is sold in the form of plates and mats. If you want to figure out how to insulate an iron garage from the inside, you should pay attention to mineral wool.

When mineral wool is heated to 300 degrees, it begins to exude hazardous substances. As a material for garage insulation, mineral wool is safe and reliable.

Cellulose insulation

They are quite environmentally friendly, have high rates of thermal insulation. The disadvantages include a high ignition rate, water permeability, susceptibility to the formation of fungi on the surface.

Styrofoam

The material does an excellent job of insulating the walls of the garage. It is not affected by moisture, is not afraid of mold. Also, expanded polystyrene perfectly retains its properties when exposed to chemicals. One of the disadvantages of the material is its fire hazard. Only some types of polystyrene foam do not burn after being treated with fire retardants.

According to manufacturers, a 10-centimeter layer of thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene is equal in terms of thermal protection to a 2-meter brick wall.

Wall insulation

To insulate the garage from the inside, you will need to process the walls and gates. Their total area is about 50% of the total garage area. The thermal insulation of the walls is performed in the same way as the ceiling, starting with waterproofing. At a distance of 60 cm from the floor, it is necessary to install a frame beam for fixing the insulation. However, you can use a simpler option - to put thermal insulation plates on a liquid nail.

Lay insulation between the beams. At the next stage, a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it, and then the wall is sheathed with clapboard or other material.

Important! Before starting work on the lining, all inconsistencies and cracks should be sealed with sealant. Ventilation holes are an exception.

Floor insulation

Floors in garages are most often made of concrete. Thermal insulation must be carried out before pouring the mixture. The work is carried out in the following order:

• the earth is carefully tamped;
• a sand cushion is poured, and then it is also rammed;
• pour concrete mixture (10 cm);
• fill the screed with fine sand or expanded clay, spill it with water;
• after drying the previous layer, pour the finishing screed.

You can use such a coating only a month after completion. It is after such a period of time that the floor will gain the necessary strength.

Floor with cellar

When it comes to the presence of a cellar, insulation must be approached more carefully. Much depends on the design of the floor. If it is made of wood, the thermal insulation scheme is performed as follows:

• Between the lags, a heater is placed that does not allow moisture to pass through (polystyrene).
• The material is covered with a diffusion membrane with one-sided permeability - so that the beam "breathes". A crate is nailed on top - to create a ventilation gap.
• A draft floor is made from edged boards.

Thanks to this solution, the cold coming from the basement is cut off. Excess moisture will go into the garage. Properly arranged ventilation helps to get rid of moisture. Due to this, dampness does not accumulate on wooden and metal surfaces. As a result, mold and corrosion do not form.

How to insulate a basement in a garage? To do this, you need ordinary polystyrene foam. The material has good performance properties:

• mold resistance;
• long service life;
• excellent water resistance.

The installation of insulation is carried out by gluing polystyrene foam boards, which are adjusted in size, to brick walls. Figuring out how to insulate a cellar in a garage is quite simple. The choice of technology depends on the material of the insulation.

To better protect the base of the garage from the cold, you can make a warm blind area from the outside. It will allow you to shift the soil freezing line, and under the garage, even in winter, a positive temperature will remain. After insulating the floor, it is worth moving on to protecting the gate.

Important! We insulate the garage from the inside with our own hands, after taking care of ventilation.

Gates

How to insulate the gate? They represent one of the most vulnerable areas. They should be insulated in the same way as walls. All joints between gates and walls must have additional thermal insulation. This is due to the fact that only through the entrance and entrance gates the most heat leaves the garage.

The gaps can be closed with a rubber band, or mounting foam, which, after cutting, is pasted over with rubber. Insulation of the garage is an important procedure that will require a lot of cost and effort from the car owner.

Thus, the insulation of the garage can be carried out quickly and at no extra cost. The main thing is to choose the right material and follow the instructions. Only with complex insulation is it possible to protect the car from frost. Also, do not forget about the heating and ventilation system.