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The device of a fence from a chain-link mesh on the example of tension and sectional structures. The subtleties of arranging a fence from a mesh

A fence is an essential element of any private property. If country houses are recommended by experts to be fenced with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages are their practical and inexpensive options. The most suitable material for a country fence is a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make a durable fence, but also increase the yield of beds, since the design does not interfere with natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of the chain-link mesh, its advantages

Chain-link mesh is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

affordable cost. Chain-link mesh is a budget option for building a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

A high-quality mesh will serve you for decades.

long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is able to maintain its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust, with proper use it does not deform.
the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence with or without welding. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

ease of care for the material;
the grid does not interfere with the natural circulation of air, does not obscure the territory.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, pet enclosures, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh is of three types:

Not galvanized.
Galvanized.
Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the action of moisture the surface rusts very quickly.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, it does not rust, which is really very valuable.

galvanized wire mesh

Plasticized material is a modern option, but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized grid has various color scale. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally fit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable chain-link fence is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

With the use of a welding machine.
Without welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without the use of welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. In the process of work you will need:

chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
support poles (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
special fastening hooks;
sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
shovel;
building level;
mounting tape;
hammer or drill;
bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a tension one. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For the correct performance of the work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Scheme: installing a chain-link fence

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, you will appreciate its merits not only from personal experience, but you will also see it by the increased amount of crop received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo

How to protect your summer cottage? A steel mesh fence is an economical option that is considered effective, fairly easy to install. It does not cast shadows, is well ventilated, forms a transparent wall that does not interfere with plant growth. But the most attractive thing is that the simple technology of work allows you to install a chain-link fence with your own hands.

What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?
An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence
Tips from "experienced"

What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?

However, there are options here too: just stretch the cellular fabric between the pillars or fix it according to the design made from the corner? The first method is simpler, although it does not look so impressive from an aesthetic point of view. Alternatively, such a fence can be equipped on the boundary with a neighboring site.

What to use for the device supports?

The cost of the fence, its durability is affected by the material from which the pillars are made. It can be a light, inexpensive tree. If these are bars, then they need to be cleaned of bark, cut into equal lengths (3m), be sure to open them with a waterproofing solution. You can use poles left over from construction in the country as supports. The upper part of the supports, located above the ground, is exposed to atmospheric precipitation, so it will have to be oiled, then painted with oil paint. Wood is a material that is easy to process, but, nevertheless, short-lived.

Important! On unstable soils, in wetlands, the entire underground part of the pillars must be concreted. The cement mortar is prepared in proportion: two parts of cement, two parts of crushed stone are taken for one part of sand. When adding each component, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed. Water is poured so much that after thorough mixing the solution is not very liquid. With the tip of a shovel, it is rammed, leveled, shaken. When concreting hole foundations for pillars, the main work is resumed only after 7 days, when the concrete "ripens".

Asbestos-cement or concrete structures are used as supports. They are strong, stable and durable. Fastening to the supports of rolled cellular material is carried out with a cable or wire through equipped clamps. The weaving option is that the pole is surrounded by a cable threaded into the cells. One thing is bad: in the event of a vandal capture of the net, it is enough to “bite” the cable, and it can be easily removed.

Metal poles-supports in this regard are more reliable. Plus, they last for decades. Pipes 60 - 120 mm in diameter with a metal thickness of at least 2 mm are used. Grid holders are welded on them in the upper part - metal hooks. Then the whole structure is painted with waterproof paint.

Carefully evaluate the roll

When choosing a chain-link mesh, you need to pay attention to the general appearance of the roll. It should not be crumpled, deformed. Wire braided material - smooth, whole. It is very important that the edge part does not look like a curve: all the outer corners of the cells must be of the same height, elongated “along the string”. From this envy aesthetic appearance, lack of sagging.

The grid is used for fences steel, galvanized. Sold in rolls of 10-20 m long. The size of the cells, their thickness, as well as the width of the mesh fabric also varies. Roll material with a width of one and a half meters is most in demand. If you want to make the fence higher, the mesh fabric rises by the upper edge, the gap formed at the bottom is laid with the available materials at hand.

Exclusivity, a special flavor to a chain-link fence with your own hands in the decor can be given by a colored polyester coating that is resistant to damage and fading, as well as the shape and size of the cells. Usually, these are rhombic or square honeycombs sized 30x30, 45x45, 50x50mm. Although canvases can be made to order with a different geometry.

An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence

The simplest installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands without welding comes down to the following.

Installation begins with driving corner posts along the border of the site, because. they will be subjected to the greatest uneven load. Since the entire construction of the fence is quite light, the foundation is not needed for it. The pillars are planted in the ground to a depth of about 1 m. If it is a metal pipe or profile, then the lower part, which will be in the ground, is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
Half of the volume of land is selected with a drill. At the final depth, the pillars are driven in with a sledgehammer. Before starting the installation, the vertical is checked with a water level. In case of deviation from it, the fence can “lead”. The resulting void between the pillar and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble, after which it is carefully compacted. This is done to make the structure stronger.
So that the mesh web does not deviate from the vertical plane, a cord is stretched between the corner supports. This will be a line, a kind of landmark on which you need to drill the rest of the holes. The total length of the fence is measured with a tape measure. The resulting value is divided into equal sections. Every 2.5 m, holes are dug or drilled for supports. The selected stride length must be respected as at a greater distance, the windage of the mesh becomes unacceptable: under the force of the wind, the mesh material will stretch, and over time it will simply sag.
By the way, in some cases, in addition to concreting, for reliable fixation, the supports in the drilled holes are covered from all sides with rubble stone or savage. This layer is carefully compacted, after which a small layer of soil is laid on top. The resulting "pillow" must be well compacted again. Finally, on top, the finishing layer of rubble stone is laid.
The design feature of the poles are the hooks at the top. Welded to the profile, they bend well. Before installing the grid, they need to be straightened. The rolled canvas itself must be hung correctly. For this, the upper edge of the roll is determined: the wire on it is longer. In addition, the extreme spiral is marked. "Nippers" bite off the central and extreme screeds. A roll of chain-link mesh (galvanized, steel, etc.) is rolled out from the extreme edge “on itself”. It should turn out to be a solid canvas when unfolded.
Grasping the edge, holding the material, gradually stretch it. In this form, the grid will not get tangled, and the edges will cling to the cells. Better if it is galvanized. In the case of a metal fence, its surface will rust from moisture in a couple of days after installation. Galvanization is durable. In any case, it will last a quarter of a century on the fence.

For the cells of the upper row, the mesh is suspended on pre-bent hooks. At the same time, at the joints of two panels, it is left unstretched. Between themselves, the edges of the two rolls are intertwined with a zigzag wire. It is considered extreme in the roll web, therefore it is unscrewed from it. Then, using the weaving method, attaching both pieces to the ends, they are intertwined with this piece. It turns out a seamless solid fence.
Now the finally solid fence is pulled tight so that it does not sag over time. Hooks are bent with a hammer, fixing the specified mesh tension. Do not forget about the top of the canvas. Unformed tendrils of the wire from which the cells are made stick out on it. The ends sticking out in different directions are twisted together, wrapped downwards, in order to avoid injuries during the work.
A chain-link fence with a cable can be considered as an option in which a thin (ᴓ 6mm) cable or wire is passed into the even upper row of cells. Tension fasteners are fixed in the corner posts. It is tensioned with bolts and does not allow the structural material to sag. To do this, holes are pre-drilled on the pillars closer to the outer edge, as well as in the middle. They should be located at a height equal to the location of the penultimate row of cells, be slightly larger in diameter than the cross section of the wire (cable) or rod used for tension. In supports for installed mesh sections, such wire holes are not needed.
Protruding "whiskers" are twisted around the wire. It is also needed to eliminate the hanging of the top of the mesh, its sagging. To do this, you need to apply a certain tension force. To create it, use a special device for a chain-link fence from a mesh with a cable. A thick bar is pulled through the cells of the extreme row. A part of the mesh is wound on it with a roll until it stops. All wound material is fixed with wire. A cable is attached to the rod. I use a long bar as a lever, tighten the mesh to full tension. This position is fixed on the supports with bolts or other hardware.

Important! The fence made of galvanized stainless material does not need further finishing. It can be used immediately after installation. If the wire in the mesh is metal, its subsequent coloring is required. The work is done only with a brush: from a spray gun a lot of paint is uneconomically spent in space, and when working with a roller, it is impossible to completely paint over the weaves.

When erecting a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you do not need to mount the structural material with an overlap on the ground, leaving air space between it and the ground. This, on the one hand, will remove the additional load on the grid; on the other hand, by eliminating contact with the ground, the metal sheet will not be subjected to corrosive destruction in this way.
The hooks on the poles are nailed to a flattened appearance with a hammer. The rolled wire passing through the upper, lower row of cells is fixed to the posts by welding. On the corner supports, where you need to make a bypass of the canvas, you get a loose tension, no matter how carefully you try to do it. Therefore, in this place a connecting seam is made from two pieces of mesh.
Do-it-yourself chain-link fence without welding looks less preferable than a fence made of welded frame sections with an area of 1.5x2.5 m from a steel corner. The mesh design is welded to them by electric welding. It will provide such a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands decor to any exterior. Climbing plants planted next to it, flowers, located on the fence and clinging to it with shoots, will create a natural, colorful, fragrant, living carpet.

The mesh construction is not only a beautiful, simple even in its own design, an original "living" hedge. A chain-link fence is an example of how, having shown ingenuity and making an effort, it is possible to economically build an original fence that is in no way inferior in its purpose to more fundamental and expensive structures.

The German construction worker Karl Rabitz, patenting his stucco mesh, did not even guess how many applications she would find later. One of the most common is a fence. Chain-link mesh, or just a chain-link, is inexpensive, it is not difficult to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, and its performance is very high. By the way, "chain-link" has become a household word, and this word must be handled according to all the rules of the Russian language. Chain-link lovers fence fences and curious, from improvised material, but quite reliable, and / or not devoid of artistic merit:

Curious mesh fences

You can make a fence from a chain-link without experience with 1-2 unskilled assistants around a plot of 20 acres over the weekend, not counting the gate with a gate, if you know the features of this material and how to work with it. Their description is one of the purposes of this article. The second is to talk about some little-known useful qualities of chain-link fences, which we will finish quickly in order to come to grips with the technique.

Note: further, when describing the types of chain-link fences, we will, as far as possible, suggest how to make one or another without welding, if in this case this is even possible. Country electrical wiring most often simply cannot withstand the operating current of the welding machine, and it is difficult and expensive to rent and transport a motor-generator.

What is a chain link fence good for?

Frost on the grid Rabitsa

First of all - excellent visibility, high light transmission and breathability. It is impossible to fence off small areas with blind fences, they shade plants and disrupt the circulation of surface air layers, which aggravates the effect of frosts, dry winds, etc. A fence made of welded mesh also transmits both light and air, but its canvas is not voluminous. Flattened spirals, from which the Rabitz mesh is wound, break the dense air flow into small whirlwinds, which causes the wind energy to drop and its effect on buildings and plantings is reduced. The difference in aerodynamics is clearly visible in ice (see the figure on the right): the stronger the ice storm rushes, the less the netting passes it. In general, over long periods of time (from 10 years), areas fenced with a chain-link suffer less from the vagaries of the elements than those surrounded by some other fence.

The three-dimensional structure of the chain-link also gives it high elasticity when stretched. This is important, first of all, for playgrounds: even if a small troublemaker hits the fence instead of the ball, there will be no serious injuries. A properly built chain-link fence will withstand a frontal collision with a car at speeds up to 40-50 km / h without fatal consequences for the driver, passengers, car and himself.

Finally, the high elasticity of the stretched chain-link, combined with its three-dimensional structure, determines the poor surmountability of a correctly made fence from it: the stretched chain-link bends and springs as a single surface. This is essential not so much against intruders as when keeping livestock and other domestic animals. It is equally difficult for a cat and a bull to jump over a chain-link fence, break through it or get entangled in it. Unwanted wild newcomers to the household yard - too.

Types of chain-link fences

Installation of a chain-link fence is possible in at least 5 different ways, which give significantly different operational qualities of the fence:

Stretch along the string;
Hinged along the veins;
Mounted on the slopes;
Sectional teams;
Sectional whole.

Tension along a string (cable or wire, item 1 in the figure) a chain-link fence is the most permeable, resilient and windproof. Material consumption is minimal. Disadvantages - laboriousness, tk. pillars must certainly be completely concreted (see below), as well as obligatory braces for corner, gate and, possibly, intermediate pillars. For installation, special equipment is required, some of which, however, can be replaced with devices from improvised means.

Types of chain-link fences

In a fence hinged along the veins, a chain-link fabric is hung instead of an elastic string on rigid rods (pos. 2) or a small professional pipe, which is a vein. It is easiest to build a chain-link fence on veins, which is why they most often make them for themselves. The permeability and, so to speak, "wind-softening" properties of the chain-link fence on the veins are almost the same as those of the tension along the string. However, if a truck that brought something accidentally catches it, it will most likely have to be changed at least 2 spans completely. On dense, well-bearing soils, pillars under a fence hinged along the veins can be installed in simplified ways.

A fence made of a chain-link hung on a slug (boards, a steel profile or a round plastic pipe, a corner), pos. 3, is more material and labor intensive than the hinged one along the veins, but you can put it on any more or less bearing soil (more than 0.5 kg / sq. cm, if the soil is not flooded) by simply hammering or digging the pillars, because . supports with slegs form a single sufficiently strong and rigid structure. A chain-link fence on wooden poles is no less durable than on steel ones. In addition, it can be built on a slope without any tricks, see fig.:

Sloped mesh fence

The fact is that the chain-link keeps its shape when skewed up to 6 degrees, which gives a slope of 1:10, i.e. 1 m by 10 m. However, the mechanical properties of the chain-link fall catastrophically, but this is not essential in the fence along the slopes, because almost all operational loads are assumed by supports with rigid strapping.

A prefabricated sectional fence made of chain-link (pos. 4) is expensive, labor-intensive and, by the way, less durable (it is easier to demolish or cut the whole frame than to break through a solid mesh panel), and it is easier to overcome. Its only advantage is a more or less decent appearance and lower dynamic loads on the mesh, which is especially important for colored plasticized netting, see below. One-piece sectional chain-link fences (item 5) are durable, difficult to overcome, visually visible, but expensive, labor-intensive and of little repair. Children's, sports and industrial sites are most often fenced with such, therefore, solid sectional fences are not considered further.

Note: if you are going to make a sectional mesh fence, then the first thing to consider is the welded flat mesh option. The chain-link in this design has no advantages over it, but the welded mesh is cheaper and easier to install.

Net

Installation of a chain-link fence is not possible from any of its types, of which there are dozens, if not hundreds, in the production and sale. The “black” chain-link made of uncoated structural steel (item 1 in the figure) is a plaster and reinforcing mesh, not intended for outdoor use: it quickly rusts, does not hold paint well, is rather fragile and begins to tear from the winds even sooner than it rusts.

Types of mesh Rabitsa

For fences, most often there is a galvanized chain-link made of wire of increased plasticity (pos. 2), the so-called. gray. It costs approx. 7-12% more expensive than black. A cheerful fence can be made from a plasticized chain-link (coated with colored PVC, item 3), but only sectional. The solid panel of their colored netting sags in the wind, the plastic at the joints is rubbed over the winter, and the mesh rusts. Very fast, because in this case, the metal is eaten by capillary moisture. There is a plasticized chain-link somewhere 1.5 times more expensive than gray.

Note: in wide sale there is also a chain-link made of stainless steel wire, pos. 4. A marvelous fence dream, but, like all marvelous dreams, it is very expensive in real life.

Mesh and wire

Fences are usually made from a vertical chain-link with a mesh of 50-60 mm, from wire with a diameter of 1.6-2.2 mm, pos. 5. To fence a household yard with a bird, you need a more expensive mesh with a mesh no larger than 30 mm, otherwise the ducklings will scatter, and it will not be difficult for ferrets and weasels to get into the house. The lower gap of the fence (see below) in this case is covered with boards or slate.

A mesh of increased strength made of wire up to 4-5 mm thick (pos. 6) is needed for the fence of a corral or pasture for cattle. It is difficult to work with it, especially splicing panels (see below), because. reinforced chain-link is heavy and tough.

A very strong and elastic variety of chain-link with a small, up to 20 mm, strongly flattened mesh, the so-called. shell mesh (pos. 7, remember the old beds?). But it is much more expensive than an ordinary fence netting, and working with it is even more difficult. And finally, a chain-link of a horizontal layer, pos. 8: it is impossible to make the junction of her canvases in the fence invisible.

Splicing and tension

The chain-link mesh is produced from a width of 1.1 m in rolls from 10 m. For fences, 10-meter rolls with a width of 1.5-3 m are usually purchased. It is impossible to turn large rolls without lifting mechanisms. That is, the fence will need several rolls, the panels of which (if the fence is not sectional) must be spliced into one sheet.

It is not necessary to splice the netting panels into a web with wire (pos. 1 in the figure) - it is ugly and fragile. To splice the netting sheets, one spiral (one twist) is carefully unscrewed from the edge of one of them and, screwing it into 2 extreme layers of the sheets, they are spliced, pos. 2.

Splicing and tensioning the chain-link mesh

Also, when installing a chain-link fence, the mesh must be stretched. Especially - if the fence is stretched along the string, then the mesh should be pulled tight. In the methods for this, it is recommended to use a screw lanyard (pos. 3) or hoists, but with improvised means and with 2 assistants you can do it easier, pos. 4:

Sections of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm or more are tucked into the extreme layers, and bridles from a textile or synthetic cable with a thickness of 12 mm or more are knitted to their ends.
On the one hand, the bridle is carried along the hollow on the support 4a, thrown onto a firmly driven stake-"boy" with an emphasis-lying between it and the extreme post, and a cable gate 4b is made until it is tightly tightened.
On the other hand, a stake (vaga) 4v with another bridle thrown over it is placed in the hole with an emphasis.
One worker holds the wag vertically, holding the bridle on it so that it does not slip, and the other wraps the collar as tight as possible.
The worker on the collar holds it, and the worker on the vaga pulls it towards him. The mesh will be taut with a force of approx. equal to the force of hoists from 4 blocks.
Workers keep the mesh taut, and the master fastens it.

Mesh attachment

The mesh is attached to the extreme pillars by introducing the same armatures into its nearest from the inside to the pillars. Then the rods in 4-5 places are attracted to the poles with clamps and, if necessary, the rods (not the mesh!) Are additionally attached to the poles by welding. The mesh is attached to the intermediate posts in the same way and, thus, it turns out to be tightly stretched. Depending on the type of fence, the method of fixing the mesh may be different, see below.

pillars

Chain-link fence posts can be wooden, steel from a round or shaped pipe, or round from an asbestos-cement pipe; in the latter case, reinforcement and concreting are required, as for piles. Ready-made poles for mesh fences with hooks (for tension and hinged fences) or mounting paws (for sectional ones) are produced. It is necessary to deepen the pillars into the ground by at least 80 cm, and preferably by 120 cm and deeper. Here the role is no longer played by the depth of freezing and frost heaving of the soil, but by the lateral operational loads on the pole. The minimum cross-sectional dimensions of the posts for a chain-link fence are as follows:

Pine or spruce for a fence with a panel on a string - 100x100 mm.
The same, oak or larch - 80x80 mm.
Steel from a professional pipe with a wall of 3 mm - 60x60 mm for a fence with a panel along a string or sectional and 40x40 mm for others.
Steel from a round pipe with a wall of 2.5 mm - dia. 80 and 60 mm resp.
Asbestos-cement - with a diameter of 120 mm for a fence with a panel along the string and from 100 mm for a hinged panel.

Note: sectional chain-link fences on wooden and asbestos-cement poles cannot be made. It is undesirable to make fences with a hinged panel on wooden poles, because. pillars in such structures are not prestressed. Asbestos-cement fence posts are not repairable.

Strengthening the pillars in the ground is possible in the following ways (see Fig.):

Strengthening the fence posts from the chain-link in the ground

Driving or digging in - on dense, not very heaving, not flooded soils: dry loams and clays, gravelly and cartilaginous soils;
With partial concreting - in areas with a small freezing depth on soils with a bearing capacity of 1.7 kg / sq. see Practically - on any stable soil;
Butovanie - recommended for wooden poles on soils as in the previous. n. A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 20-30 cm is poured under the pillar, the rubble is poured in layers, 15-20 cm each, tamped and poured with sand. Properly prepared wooden poles (see below) in such nests stand for 50-70 years or more;
Full concreting - in all other cases. Under the post - anti-flood pillow, as in the previous. P; the solution from M150 is poured in layers, 10-15 cm each. The next layer is poured as soon as before. will start to catch on. The column is fixed with temporary braces for the time of concrete gain of 50% strength (3-7 days).

How to prepare wooden poles?

A chain-link fence on wooden poles can be just as durable and reliable as a steel one, if properly prepared. The maintainability of the fence on wooden poles is higher, because. repairing or replacing a broken wooden pole is easier than a bent steel pole. Preparation of wooden poles for the fence is as follows:

Bars-blanks are impregnated with engine oil waste or any oil-based biocide-water repellent (water-repellent composition).
Underground + approx. 50 cm above ground are impregnated twice with bituminous mastic.
Underground + approx. 30 cm above ground are wrapped with roofing material, pulling the wrapper with a thin soft wire. Do not fasten with nails or screws!
The upper end of the installed column is painted over with thick oil paint (red lead, ocher, whitewash), regardless of whether the column will be finished somehow else.

How to put up fences?

The gap between the lower edge of the net and the ground in any chain-link fence is needed from 15-20 cm. Otherwise, an inconvenience will form there, where pests and weeds will breed and breed. So that the cattle, trying to reach the fresh meat, do not injure their muzzles on the net, and the bird does not scatter, the lower gap is covered with boards or slate so that they can be removed if necessary.

By the strings

Step-by-step instructions on how to install the most common chain-link fence on 3 strings are given in fig. A 3-string fence is very elastic as a whole, therefore, in this case, the pits for the pillars are small - frost heaving can spoil such a fence only on heavily and excessively heaving soils. In this case, they keep each other from skewing the pillars with the help of tightly stretched strings. The minimum allowable diameters of steel wire and cable strings are 4 and 3 mm respectively, but usually 4 mm cable is taken for the strings, and most often 6 mm wire rod. You can still pull it by hand and, of course, it is stronger. This fence can be installed without welding. Wire holders of the 1st type are hooks on poles driven with a hammer; Type 2 - self-tapping screws for metal with hooks.

Installation of a fence from a grid Chain-link with a cloth on strings

Features of installing chain-link fences with linen along the strings

If the fence is with corners, then on the corner posts you need 2 struts at 90 degrees. And if the length of the fence from corner to corner exceeds 10-12 m, then on weak soils (sandy loam, sand, black soil, gray and peaty soils), struts of intermediate pillars, pos. 1 next. rice. Gate posts can in any case be without braces if the gate opening is arched or with a crossbar. Also, without struts of intermediate poles, a chain-link fence on strings with wooden poles can be made, pos. 2.

The mesh is applied to the strings after they are stretched. It is enough to grab the net to the string with a “mustache” (pos. 3), because the string plays along with the grid. If the pillars are round, then the chain-link cloth can be circled without breaks (except for gates and gates) around the entire perimeter, pos 4. Also, due to the greater bending strength of round pipes, in this case, you can not concrete the jibs, but spread them between the pillars.

Note: all chain-link fences along the strings can be made without welding.

On the veins

A chain-link fence on wire rod strings is already a transitional option for a fence with a hinged panel. In "real" chain-link fences, the upper and lower strings are replaced with rigid reinforcing bars - veins inserted into the mesh cells. The veins are introduced into the rows of cells in advance as the roll unfolds. The upper and lower veins are attached to the poles in the same way as vertical ones: by throwing them into hooks, clamps, welding. 2 options for installing chain-link fences with a hinged panel are shown in the video:

Installation of chain-link fences (video)

And here we will limit ourselves to what should not be done when building such a fence.

Errors when making fences from a chain-link mesh on veins

Firstly, a hard rod does not play with the mesh in the wind, so it is impossible to introduce veins into the outer rows of cells (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), the cells will soon disperse. However, inserting veins into rows of cells 2-3 from the edge (pos. 2) is also impossible, now for safety reasons. When trying to climb over the fence, the chain-link does not bend much on the veins and it seems to an inexperienced thief or just a half-wit that it is possible to “take” such a fence. But then he finds himself hanging on a wire stuck in his stomach, and the owner has to answer for other people's stupidity and evil up to prison. Therefore, the veins of the hinged fence must be entered into 4-6 horizontal rows of chain-link cells from the edge. Then it simply cannot be climbed over; in extreme cases, an absolutely unreasonable stubborn man will strip his hands, but will not tear his own guts.

Note: strong, safer and rather elegant chain-link fences are obtained if you take a thin professional pipe on a vein; drawings of the span of such a fence, see fig. below. This is a transitional type to a fence with a canvas on the sleds.

Drawings of a chain-link fence on veins from a professional pipe

On the slopes

The device of a chain-link fence on wooden slings is shown in the next fig; this fence can also be assembled without welding. Poles do not have to be taken with paws; they can be attached to them with self-tapping screws for wood, if the poles are wooden, or for metal, if the poles are steel. For a fence on a slope, this option is even preferable.

The device of the fence from the chain-link on wooden sleds

But what should not be simplified in the fence from the chain-link fence is the method of attaching the net. Here we need the same reinforcing bars, nailed to the rails with U-shaped brackets or bent nails. If, however, the mesh is fixed as shown on the right in the figure, or simply with nails / self-tapping screws, then within a year it will sag, no matter how it was initially stretched.

Sectional

A sectional fence made of a chain-link can look quite attractive if the section frames are welded from a professional pipe, and the mesh is grabbed directly to them by spot welding; a drawing of a section of such a fence, see the left in fig. below. Collect sections recumbent:

Frames of height less than the grid stretched in width are brewed.
Lay the frame flat.
A piece of mesh of length greater than the span is placed on the frame and stretched with plug-in veins, as described above.
They seize each cell falling on the frame by spot welding.
Cut off excess mesh.

Schemes of sectional fences from the chain-link

As you can see, it requires either special equipment, or at least 4 strong assistants, and also a spot welding machine, and even part of the mesh goes to waste. Therefore, do-it-yourself sectional fences from a chain-link are most often made in frames from a corner of 30x30x4 or 40x40x5 (on the right in the figure):

Roll out the mesh to the length of the span and stretch it up and down as far as possible with your hands. It is better to do this on the ground, fixing the veins with pegs. Insert veins into the extreme rows of cells.
Measure the distance between the outer edges of the veins. The distances between the shelves of the corners H facing each other must be equal to them.
Mounting hooks made of 6 mm wire rod are welded into the corners, not reaching the shelves of the corners facing each other by 1-1.5 cm.
When installing the fence, the upper vein is first thrown onto the hooks (the mustache of the mesh must be bent).
Then, with 4 mounts (for which an assistant is needed), the lower vein is brought onto the hooks.
The side veins are put in place in the same way.

Relief and swamp

Instead of a conclusion, we suggest watching another video on how to install chain-link fences on slopes, bumps and marshy ground:

Installing a chain-link fence on problem surfaces (video)

Today, with all the variety of fences, few types of construction could replace a hand-made chain-link fence.

Benefits of a chain link fence

Very quick and easy to install with your own hands;
Low cost;
Ease of construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
Lets light through, will not create conflict situations with neighbors due to the shadow created;
Strict and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence can be installed in two ways:

1. Normal, as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is much cheaper and easier. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to pursue an impeccable appearance, but you just need to quickly and cheaply install a fence.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when finished sections of the fence are produced, in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will cost a lot more, because you have to get metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but at the same time the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on top of the fence, something to dry, etc.)

materials

For the installation of such a fence, we need the following materials:

Metal poles 50x50x2x3000 mm;
Chain-link mesh (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
Fasteners (nails, galvanized bolts);
Concrete M200.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Territory marking.

We begin work by driving in pegs in the corners of the site and pulling the laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length of the required chain-link mesh, you also need to take into account + 5-7% of the additional length "in reserve". Next, we mark the places of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Pillar installation.

In the event that after the construction of the house there is a sufficient amount of wooden beams or other material left that you can use as future supporting fence posts; when the price of a "wood" in your region is several times cheaper than a metal profile, or you just need a temporary fence - then you should use wooden supports. The surface of the wooden beam must be cleaned of bark, and it is also desirable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic, which will protect the material from decay and pests. The poles should be cut based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the base being dug in (the pit should be 100-150 mm larger from the depth of freezing of the soil, therefore, if you are counting on a two-meter fence, and the depth of freezing of the soil is 800 mm, then you should prepare poles with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not last long, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence - take care of buying metal poles. The installation of such supports requires concreting the base. The depth of the concreted pit should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you planned to put up a fence 2 m high, the depth of the pit should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the freezing depth and heaving of the soil).

III. Chain-link mesh stretch.

It is most convenient to nail the mesh to the wooden base of the fence.

Do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fence

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

To install a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh, we need the following: materials:

Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
Grid chain-link galvanized or plasticized;
Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
Metal rod and strip for welding
Concrete M200

The marking and installation of the posts of the sectional fencing from the chain-link is no different from its simpler counterpart, but you will have to sweat with the welding of the frames. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to contact a professional.

When planning sections, do not forget that they need to be made 100-200 mm shorter than the distance between the fence supports and 100-150 mm above ground level.

Having marked and cut the mesh according to the dimensions of the welded rectangle, we evenly stretch it along the frame and, having applied metal rods on top, we weld everything into an integral structure.

Finished sections are attached to the poles in strips by welding.

At the final stage, it is recommended to paint all metal elements and welding points of the sectional fence with a primer.

Photo of chain-link fences

See photos of chain-link fences made by hand

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence installation video

Watch the video on how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands:

Installation of a chain-link fence.

You can make a fence from a chain-link without experience with 1-2 unskilled assistants around a plot of 20 acres over the weekend, not counting the gate with, if you know the features of this material and how to work with it. Their description is one of the purposes of this article. The second is to talk about some little-known useful qualities of chain-link fences, which we will finish quickly in order to come to grips with the technique.

Note: further, when describing the types of chain-link fences, we will, as far as possible, suggest how to make one or another without welding, if in this case this is even possible. Country electrical wiring most often simply cannot withstand the operating current of the welding machine, and it is difficult and expensive to rent and transport a motor-generator.

What is a chain link fence good for?

Installation of a chain-link fence is possible in at least 5 different ways, which give significantly different operational qualities of the fence:

Stretch along the string;
Hinged along the veins;
Mounted on the slopes;
Sectional teams;
Sectional whole.

Note: if you are going to make a sectional mesh fence, then the first thing to consider is the welded flat mesh option. The chain-link in this design has no advantages over it, but the welded mesh is cheaper and easier to install.