Installation and connection of a kitchen hood. Overview: how to install a hood in the kitchen - preparation and installation rules Installing a flat hood in the kitchen

During cooking, fumes and various fumes rise from the stove to the ceiling. After a while, it becomes difficult to breathe in the room - this means that polluted air is not drawn out well enough through the vent. Therefore, the installation of a kitchen hood for forced air circulation is required. But first you need to decide which mode of operation of the unit is required in your case, and then how to install the hood in the kitchen correctly.

Forced ventilation devices for the kitchen differ in their mode of operation. The units are:

1. the polluted air is pumped through a block of filters, consisting of preliminary (for coarse cleaning) and coal (for cleaning the air from odors). Such a unit does not require a connection to the ventilation duct, so in this case the installation will be the easiest. But, in terms of the quality of air purification in the room, this type of apparatus loses to flowing ones.
2. effectively pump out polluted air from the room into the ventilation shaft or duct, which is led outside (if you install the hood in a private house).

Required machine power

Connecting a neutral wire to a dead neutral

There are several types of air ducts for domestic ventilation on sale:

1. PVC (plastic) air ducts. They have good strength and light weight. Due to the smooth coating, they do not create noise when streams move along them.
2. Aluminum corrugated air duct - freely bends, stretches and easily adjusts to any size. It does not create vibration and hum, but it has an unaesthetic appearance, therefore, it usually hides in a closet, a special box or is hidden by a false ceiling.

Before you install the hood in the kitchen, make sure that you do not cover the only regular vent in the room with a pipe. In the case of one vent, they often break through another exit from the mine and put a check valve that will close the flow into it when the device is turned on.

There is also the option of using a special box with a clapper valve.

In the figure, the installed valve is shown in red. With the fans turned off, it lies horizontally, and the air can pass through the box naturally. When the fans are turned on, the valve rises and closes the air outlet back into the room, thereby directing it to the shaft. The material can be some lightweight material such as plastic or aluminum. But this option is not suitable if a built-in hood is being installed, since it is mounted in a wall cabinet.

For private houses, the best option would be to punch an additional hole in the wall for the channel and not affect the existing vertical one. In an additional hole you need to bring the air duct from the device. But the output must be set check valve to prevent outside air from entering.

check valve

If there is no additional channel in an ordinary apartment, and it is not possible to punch a hole in the outer wall, then this channel can be expanded and a special adapter, having two holes.

Through the lower grate, air from the room enters the shaft due to natural draft. At the same time, there is a visor in the upper opening, which prevents the air flow from the unit from escaping through the grille back into the room. Although there is, of course, back leakage, it is minimal compared to the outgoing flow.

The figure below clearly shows how the duct is connected to the adapter, while maintaining natural draft.

Thus, do-it-yourself installation of a kitchen hood can only be done by home craftsmen. Completing a task requires accuracy and care. Well, for those who do not have skills in handling tools, or do not have free time, the best option would be to invite a specialist to resolve this issue.

Do-it-yourself hood installation is quite feasible for a home master, even if the kitchen is already decorated and repairs are not expected soon. On one condition: the hood must be reliable (the metal parts are connected to a "deaf" neutral). You also need to decide in advance what type of hood is best for your kitchen. Let's start with this.

Types and classification of kitchen hoods

According to the principle of operation, the hoods are divided into evacuation and circulation. The first throw air out, the second - drive it through a filter with an odor absorber and release it back into the room. An evacuating hood can be turned into a circulation hood by replacing the duct with a carbon filter, similar to those used in gas masks.

Circulation hoods do not interfere with regular ventilation, but they are not particularly popular: they are more expensive, the filter does not provide 100% cleaning and requires periodic replacement. In addition, the evacuating hood throws out excess heat at the same time, while the circulation hood does not.

According to the place of installation, the hoods are divided into built-in (integrated), desktop, fireplace and ceiling island. Table hood - a horizontally located elongated socket, which is part of the technological kitchen equipment. Used in professional kitchens.

A fireplace hood is a separate device and an integral part of kitchen design. Chimney hoods are installed in elite kitchens and are often designed individually. Ceiling island hood - several air intakes in the ceiling. The device requires a false ceiling and a developed air duct system; installing it on your own is complicated and requires considerable costs.

Thus, for a city apartment or a private house of an average wealthy owner, the only acceptable option is a hood built into the kitchen furniture above the hob. In essence, this is the same fireplace hood, only simpler and cheaper.

Video: a little about choosing a hood

electrical safety

The kitchen hood belongs to the category of electrical appliances that create an increased risk of electric shock. Grease and moisture will certainly settle in the hood, this creates conditions conducive to electrical breakdown from the fan motor to the metal casing. The kitchen, in turn, is, from the point of view of electrical safety, a room with increased danger: it often combines high air temperature with its high humidity.

Therefore, kitchen hoods are connected to the power supply with three wires: phase, zero, and earth, in yellow insulation with a longitudinal green stripe. Before installing the hood, it is necessary to ensure its reliable grounding.

If the house is equipped with a ground loop and euro sockets, there are no problems: during installation, the ground wire is connected to the “ground” terminal of the plug; it is marked with a special icon in the form of three parallel lines of different lengths. But most residential buildings do not have a ground loop. In this case, you need to provide grounding yourself.

Protective earth device

For protective grounding, it is not at all necessary to dig a trench and drive pins into the ground. And in no case should the hood be grounded to a plumbing, heating, and even more so to a gas pipe. You need to connect to a deaf neutral.

Open the inlet shield in the apartment or in the entrance (only be careful - there is 220 V there!) You will see that the electrical wires in the shield come out of the pipe immured in the wall. Most likely, it will also have a threaded pin with some kind of grounding already connected. This is what a deaf neutral is: this pipe is perfectly grounded. From it, you need to bring a flexible stranded wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 sq. mm to the installation site of the hood, and connect the hood to the network through a 6.3 A disconnector.

A warning: if other grounds are connected to the dead neutral, in no case do not disconnect them in order to “land” your own. It is life-threatening for both you and other consumers. Slip your terminal over and tighten with the nut. If the neutral pipe is smooth, carefully strip it and tighten the ground wire with a clamp. It is best, of course, to agree on this directly with the ZhEKovsky electrician.

Ventilation Issues

Installing a kitchen hood almost always violates the standard ventilation in the apartment. Most often, it is recommended to break through an additional window for it, leading either to the ventilation duct or to the street. Both of these methods do not solve the problem.

From an additional window in the ventilation passage, its cross-sectional area does not increase. In the best case, the hood will throw three-quarters of the kitchen fumes into the ventilation, and a quarter will go back into the apartment. And with a strong wind or draft from the lower floors, everything can go back. Or get to the neighbors, who, as you know, are not always tolerant and benevolent.

The release to the outside, firstly, requires a project agreed with the operator of the building, since the load-bearing wall is affected. Secondly, in this case, condensation is inevitable in the air duct and on the fan motor, which brings the breakdown probability closer to 100%.

Meanwhile, the way out has long been known: an additional section of the air box with a clapper valve. Its device is clear from the figure. Let's just give some explanations:

1. The window for the exhaust duct is square with a side equal to 3/4 of the duct diameter. In this case, its cross-sectional area will be equal to that of the duct, the perimeter will be slightly less than the circumference of the duct, and connection will not cause difficulties.
2. The damper is made of 0.5 mm aluminum (better) or thin and rigid sheet non-combustible plastic: fiberglass also 0.5 mm thick or fluoroplast. But the best damper is aluminum. The lower the specific gravity of the damper material, the more clearly the clapperboard works.
3. The damper is pulled up by a thin weak spring so that it, forcibly raised to the upper position and released, smoothly falls into place. A stiff, loosely tensioned spring is no good. The diameter of the wire from which the spring is twisted is recommended 0.2 - 0.3 mm, the diameter of the spring is 3-5 mm, and its length is 120-150 mm.

Note: craftsmen familiar with electronics sometimes make a damper controlled by an electromagnet that is triggered when the hood fan is turned on. There is no point in this: the spring-loaded damper is self-adjusting. If, when the hood is turned on, the natural outflow of air increases, the damper raised to the stop will fall to some intermediate position, and as much air will always flow into the ventilation duct as it can pass.

About odor neutralizers

The hood above the stove is often supplied with an odor neutralizer. Neutralizers on sale are of three types: chemical, electroionization and ultraviolet. Let's see which one is better.

• Chemical neutralizers require periodic, and quite frequent, replacement: their active element is covered with a film of fat, which has not yet exhausted its resource. In addition, chemical neutralizers themselves exude fumes into the air, which do not have an odor, but which can be harmful to health.
• Electroionization neutralizers are arranged according to the same principle as a conventional air ionizer. But, since the concentration of impurities in the air above the hob is much higher than in the living room, the discharge has to be created stronger, up to the “crown” visible to the eye. The ionizer itself is closer to the person working at the stove, and he may be exposed to an electric field with a strength higher than the permissible one.
• Ultraviolet neutralizers require periodic cleaning of lamps from burning deposits. Lamps have to be changed about once every two years, but their price is not cheap. But the ultraviolet neutralizer is completely harmless and safe: lamps emit ultraviolet radiation several times less than the Sun on a clear summer day. Along the way, the issue of illumination of the hob is also solved: in addition to ultraviolet, the lamps also emit visible white or slightly bluish light.

air duct

Kitchen hoods are not equipped with an air duct. Its best option is a corrugated aluminum pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the upper hole of the hood. The aerodynamic resistance of the corrugation with a length of up to 1.5 m is completely lost against the background of losses from random turbulences in the ventilation. But the corrugation can be cut with ordinary scissors and simply formed into a square with your fingers to pair with a cracker. And most importantly, the corrugation will never ring or buzz, and the resonant properties of a hard box can suddenly change, and the hostess will have to cook to the accompaniment of a monotonous itchy sound.

Often the corrugation of the hood looks completely unaesthetic, so it’s better to think in advance about the location of the plate or where to hide the nondescript element.

How to make a hood in the kitchen

Tool

For the extraction device, you will need to buy or rent a jigsaw with a clean cut saw. The rest of the instruments are ordinary household ones.

Clapperboard

Installation of the hood in the kitchen begins with the manufacture of a clapperboard box. Material - thin aluminum, tin or galvanized. For convenience, the cracker should lie on the cabinet above the stove. In the future, the cracker will be planted in the ventilation window on mounting foam, and glued to the cabinet with mounting glue or silicone; this will eliminate resonance.

But first we only try on the clapperboard, and on the top board of the cabinet we mark the hole corresponding to its bottom window. This can be done with a pencil right from the inside of the cracker, removing the damper for a while. We also outline the sides of the cracker - this is necessary for accurate final installation.

Closet

Next, we free the cabinet, remove it, and in the bottom board we cut out with a jigsaw a recess according to the size of the lower frame of the hood. For cutting, beforehand, inside the contour of the hole, we drill an auxiliary hole with a diameter of 8-12 mm, insert a jigsaw file into it and cut it out along the contour. If you are not a very skilled craftsman, do not be discouraged by flaws: with the installation method described, they will not be visible.

The next stage: in the top board of the cabinet, we cut out a square hole for the cracker window, with an allowance of 3-5 mm to the sides. A certain amount of accuracy is already required here: if the corrugation “leaves” too much from the cracker window, you will have to “smear” a lot with silicone. True, it will still not be visible from below.

Typical kitchen hood layout

Corrugation installation

We put the cabinet “on the back”, we put a piece of corrugation of the desired length into the round holes. We form its upper end with our hands into a square (or into a rectangle, if, due to the configuration of the ventilation window, the damper and its window had to be made oblong), we push it into the upper hole. We cut the corners by 1.5 - 2 cm with scissors and bend them outward.

Firecracker installation

We hang the cabinet with corrugation in place. On the bent strips of corrugation at the top, and on the tree in the corners between them, we apply a “sausage” of silicone without gaps. Tilt the box with the clapperboard up, insert it into the ventilation window, lower it onto the cabinet board exactly between the marks. If too much silicone is squeezed out on the sides, immediately remove the drips with a cloth moistened with table vinegar.

After about half an hour (construction silicone seizes rather quickly), we blow out the gap between the edges of the cracker box and the edge of the ventilation window with foam. It is better to do this with a foam gun: it has a long nozzle and gives a thin stream.

Hood installation

We insert the hood from below into the cutout of the cabinet. You don’t need to put on the corrugation right away: the exhaust pipe will simply press it up. We attach the hood with self-tapping screws to the cabinet through the mounting holes. We put a corrugation on the exhaust pipe and fix it with a clamp or simply wrapping it with soft wire. It is not necessary to seal: this will make it difficult to disassemble for cleaning, and in the place where the pipe passes into the corrugation, according to the laws of aerodynamics, the pressure will always be less than atmospheric pressure. In addition, the protrusions of the corrugation, crushed under a clamp or wire, by themselves will already give a fairly tight connection.

If there is no cabinet and the socket is large

Not everyone hangs a closet over the stove, for fear of fire. And the hood works better if its bell is the size of the plate. In this case, a U-shaped frame from a corner of 20-25 mm is attached to the wall under the socket on five self-tapping screws in dowels. If the wall is sheathed - also on 5 collet studs with a diameter of 4-6 mm.

At the same time, the air duct is hidden in a PVC box of the appropriate size; it is then pasted over with a self-adhesive film of the desired color and pattern. It is unrealistic to make a strobe in the wall for a pipe with a diameter of more than 100 mm with modern wall thicknesses, and a clapperboard fits on the upper cut of the box no worse than on a cabinet.

Wiring

The wiring for the hood must be laid in advance. How - depends on the design of the kitchen. If the hood is plugged into a socket, then you can simply throw it behind the furniture. If the connection is permanent through the machine, then the wiring must be hidden in a PVC box, under a baseboard or behind a wall sheathing.

With a permanent connection, the machine MUST be included in a phase break, and during installation, the machine is turned off and the ends of the supply wires, even if not bare, are wrapped with electrical tape.

When connecting the hood, grounding is connected first. If, suddenly, the hood is connected with two wires, the ground wire must be connected by loosening a few screws at the back, inserting the bare end of the ground wire under the frame of the hood and tightening the screws tightly. The main principle of connecting a protective earth: connect where it can strike.

Cleaning and care

The hood, about once every six months, must be cleaned of burning, otherwise a fire is possible. To clean the hood mounted in the described manner, loosen the clamp holding the corrugation on the pipe, remove the corrugation, unscrew the screws holding the cap, and remove the cap. Now all parts of the hood are easily accessible for cleaning from the inside. Only the corrugation must be cleaned carefully: it is thin and easily damaged. But replacement, if necessary, will cost a penny. The silicone joint at the top is cut with a thin sharp knife without much effort.

Video: an example of installing a kitchen hood with your own hands

Installing a hood with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a home master, even when the design of the kitchen is completed. The main condition is reliable grounding and zeroing of the device (connection of metal parts to a “deaf” neutral). In advance, you also need to decide on the choice of a specific type of hood.

How to choose a hood

When purchasing a device, it is necessary to take into account the size of the kitchen and the equipment for which it is intended. The width of the hood must not be less than the surface of the plate.

The second important point is the power of the device. For a small kitchen, you can purchase a device of medium power, and for a large kitchen, powerful units are suitable.

Attention should also be paid to the compliance of the design of the hood with the interior: it must harmoniously fit into it. With today's breadth of choice of models, this is not difficult.

According to the installation options, the devices are divided into the following types:

• Domed ones are the most powerful, outwardly similar to an umbrella with a pipe extending from it.
• Built-in - the exhaust pipe of this model is retracted into the cabinet, while the panel itself is pulled out during cooking. This option is a great solution for a small kitchen.
• Flat - the exhaust pipe is replaced by a filter, as a result of which the device is more compact, but it has a low power.

Calculation of the installation height of the hood

The height is determined depending on the selected model. Instructions are attached to the device, which indicate the distance at which it is necessary to mount the device. As a rule, installation is carried out approximately 65-90 cm from the plate. Exceeding the lower threshold is unacceptable, since it can lead to melting of the hood or its individual parts. As for the upper threshold, you can choose it according to your height.

When using an electric stove, the threshold is lower (it is 65-70 cm), and in the case of a gas stove, the threshold is higher - from 75 to 90 cm.

Dome hood options and installation process

Dome type devices are:

• Wall (fireplace) - their fastening is made on the surface of the wall. The device resembles ventilation systems designed for fireplaces.
• Corner - are used in rare cases, when the plate is located in the corner.
• Island - their installation is advisable in large kitchens, in particular - in dining rooms, where the stove is in the center of the kitchen. These hoods are attached directly to the ceiling.

The material for the manufacture of hoods in most cases is stainless or enameled steel, sometimes there are models made of plastic or wood. Dome hoods operate in different modes. When installing a duct that goes outside or into a ventilation system, the function of the device is to remove air from the room.

• To install a dome hood, you need to bring the corrugation to the ventilation system of the house and connect it to the mains. Sometimes there is a need to build up wiring or corrugations.
• When carrying out work independently, before it begins, it is necessary to complete the equipment of the kitchen with furniture. Then you can proceed to marking the location of the device, taking into account the recommended height.
• To fix the hood, it is necessary to hollow out or drill holes for dowels. Supports are bolted to them. The base of the exhaust device is put on them.
• A special exhaust outlet is connected to the corrugation of the air duct in compliance with the maximum tightness.
• The operability of the device is checked, after which the upper casing is put on.

Embedded model installation

Installation of built-in hood is carried out inside the kitchen cabinet. It is also possible to install an exhaust panel on a retractable mechanism, due to which the device becomes completely hidden, however, such work requires certain skills and some professional training.

The mounting option without push-in-pull is more simplified. To implement it, you need to do the following:

• First of all, you should assemble a cabinet in which the hood will be located. It is also possible to use the existing one, although it will have to be slightly rebuilt. In the manufacture and installation of the cabinet, it is necessary to take into account the size of the kitchen and the level of the hood.
• The bottom of the planned locker rises to the height of the device itself. In the future, the hood should be attached to this bottom. The side walls are firmly fixed to the lid of the cabinet, the bottom is fixed with euro screws.
• A slot is made at the top for the air duct. To do this, you can use a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
• The hood housing is mounted. The bottom of the cabinet must be removed and the hole pattern required for the corrugations and fixing bolts should be transferred to its surface.
• After drilling and cutting holes, the body is attached to the bottom. Then you need to firmly fasten the entire structure and install it in its original place.
• The last step is to pull the duct and secure it tightly. The cable is pulled to a pre-prepared socket, after which the device can be tested.

A telescopic hood is installed in a similar way: in fact, this is the same built-in model that has several design features (they do not apply to installation).

How to install a flat hood

Flat (suspended) models, as a rule, do not have an air duct. They are equipped with an air filter. Any type of exhaust device can be run in the recirculation mode (air purification using the built-in filter) or in the mode of air outlet to the street. Filters must be changed at least twice a year.

The installation process of the exhaust model itself is not difficult. The device has a special mount - it remains only to transfer the marks to the wall surface. The distance between them should correspond to the holes on the mount. Having drilled the wall, it is necessary to hammer in the dowels and fasten the canopies with a screwdriver or screwdriver. An exhaust device is fixed on them, after which it is connected to the network.

Installation of corrugations on the hood

• If the ventilation hole is located above the stove, its connection to the hood is carried out using a small adapter. However, in many cases they are separated by a large distance. In this case, it is necessary to install a special air duct for the hood, which is a smooth pipe made of plastic or corrugated based on plastic or aluminum.
• When choosing a smooth pipe of round or square shape, an additional purchase of connecting elbows is required to bypass corners. In addition, two adapters are needed: one is used for mounting on the exhaust device, the second for the vent.
• Joints and joints are carefully coated with sealant.
• If the air duct can be hidden in a wall cabinet, it is recommended to use corrugation: it will cost less, and besides, it is much easier to mount it. In this case, there is no need to use adapters: the corrugation goes around corners perfectly.
• Before installation, the corrugation must be stretched as much as possible: this will significantly reduce the noise produced during the operation of the hood.
• When choosing a pipe diameter, it is necessary to focus on the parameters of the exhaust outlet.
• Fixing the corrugation on the exhaust pipe is carried out using a clamp, and on the ventilation hole - using a special grid.

Since, over time, cinder accumulates in the duct, preventing the free passage of air, it must be cleaned or replaced with a new one at least twice a year.

Connection to ventilation

In any house there is a natural ventilation system, to which you can connect a kitchen hood.

Connecting is easy. It will require a special shield equipped with a hole for attaching the pipe, which is fixed in place of the ventilation grille.

The problem may be as follows: in old multi-storey buildings, the installation of exhaust devices is not provided. For this reason, there are no individual ventilation ducts: there is one common channel. When tenants connect hoods in the ventilation system, the air pressure changes. As a result, odors are drawn into the ventilation openings of neighboring apartments or (when installing an exhaust device and a check valve) the devices “compete” in power. In such cases, there are several solutions:

• The radical solution is to change housing. New buildings have individual ventilation ducts.
• You can enlist the help of a ventilation specialist who will assess the condition of the ventilation and give advice on choosing a model that can be installed without harming the neighbors. If necessary, the ventilator will clean the air ducts of the mine.
• An excellent solution is to purchase a recirculation device.
• You can also create an individual ventilation system, in which a vent or a small window leading to the street is arranged. For work, a puncher is used. It is necessary to calculate the course of the duct in the kitchen and determine the most suitable place. The finished window is closed with a lattice shield. Corrugation is displayed in it.

Choosing a place to install an outlet for the hood

The preparation of a new outlet for the hood must be carried out before the installation of the appliance. When choosing an outlet, it must be borne in mind that most models of exhaust devices are equipped with three-wire wires.

It is forbidden to install sockets near the sink and near the stove. The best option is to mount it above wall cabinets - approximately at a height of 2 meters. The outlet must be moved to the left or right of the center of the hood. When choosing a more open place, you can decorate the outlet using a special box. It should not be hidden behind bulky appliances or hanging cabinets.

Sometimes there are power surges in houses, as a result of which the hood motor can burn out or be damaged to a certain extent. To prevent such a situation, it is necessary to ground the socket.

I want fresh, clean air. And not only on the street, but also in your home. Especially a lot of extraneous odors occur in the kitchen during cooking. To ensure comfortable conditions and a favorable microclimate, installing a hood in the kitchen will help. Modern manufacturers offer various devices for air purification in domestic premises. They differ in power, cleaning and installation methods, design and budget. How to make a hood in the kitchen, when the choice is made, the equipment is purchased and the only question is its installation.

Consider how to install a hood in the kitchen with your own hands. The list of activities that must be carried out for installation depends on several factors:

• type of exhaust device;
• indoor ventilation systems;
• power supply systems;
• selected duct type.

General principles of work

Making a hood in the kitchen is not difficult, but there are certain safety requirements that must be met. This applies to the strength of fastening, ensuring normal air exchange in the apartment, and protection against electric shock.

Design electrical wiring in advance.

Electricity connection is provided in the kitchen. The system must be grounded. The new houses have an appropriate circuit and euro-sockets installed. If connecting the house to the power supply requires grounding, then you should invite an electrician - a professional with access to such work. It is better to install the socket near the connection point, protect it from moisture ingress, and prevent the wire from hanging over the stove.

Attention! Before installation and installation, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions and turn on the device to make sure it works.

Installation of the hood in the kitchen begins with markings, which will ensure the location of the hood along the axis passing through the center of the stove or hob. Installation rules require that the mounting height when using gas stoves is 80 cm, electric - 70 cm.

Choose the right distance to the stove

Installing a hood in the kitchen with your own hands will require you to be skilled and have a minimum number of tools:

• drill or perforator;
• level;
• screwdriver, screwdriver;
• knife and saw for metal;
• roulette, ruler;
• pencil.

A set of necessary tools

In the kit for the hood, it is necessary to purchase corrugation fasteners, a grate, for registration of the place of attachment to the ventilation shaft, corrugation and a box.

Features of installation of various systems

Depending on the principle of air purification, kitchen hoods are divided into:

Depending on the type of attachment, hoods are divided into several types:

Consider how to properly install the hood in the kitchen with the installation of an air duct.

For domestic purposes, two types are used:
1. Plastic;
2. Metal (aluminum) corrugation.

Plastic air ducts have a smooth surface and do not create air resistance. They are more expensive than corrugations and more difficult to assemble, but they look aesthetically pleasing and do not require an additional box.

Installing a plastic duct

Important! To increase the power of the exhaust equipment, treat the joints with silicone sealant.

Installation of a metal duct

An open corrugated pipe does not always fit into the interior, so you should foresee how to hide it. You can sew it up in a drywall construction on the ceiling or arrange a box. In this case, it should be remembered that contaminants will accumulate in the pipe, and it will have to be changed periodically.

A do-it-yourself hood for the kitchen will provide access to secluded corners and facilitate cleaning.

The installation of the air duct should be carried out by determining the most direct path to the ventilation shaft, avoiding a pipe fracture. In this order, work is carried out when installing a wall-mounted, built-in or telescopic inclined hood:

1. Select a pipe with a diameter that matches the size of the outlet.
2. Stretch the pipe as much as possible to reduce noise.
3. Cut off the corrugation with a small margin for fastening.
4. Cut the edges and fold them out.
5. Fix with a clamp on the nozzle.
6. Pull the pipe through the cut holes.
7. Fastening the corrugation of the hood to the ventilation shaft using a special grate, which is attached to the place of the hole in the shaft.

Installing a hood in the kitchen should not affect the quality of air exchange in the room.

The ventilation duct must not be blocked completely. To do this, the grilles have not only an opening for the air duct, but also a special anti-return damper installed to ensure air circulation.

Has the right to life and a homemade hood for the kitchen. If the dimensions of the hole do not allow the installation of a finished grate, you can install an additional box made with two holes and a clapperboard valve. The clapperboard is made of a lightweight aluminum or tin plate and is held in place by a thin spring. When the hood is in operation and the air passes under pressure, the valve rises and allows it to escape. When the hood is turned off, the damper lowers and an opening for natural ventilation opens.

Check valve for air duct

The built-in non-return valve is used when air is taken out to the street. A hole is drilled in the outer wall, a grate with a check valve is installed. It will block access to cold air from the street when the hood is not working. The connection of the air duct is carried out according to the general rules.

Finally

When choosing and installing a hood in the kitchen, use the advice of experts. Competent work will help make your home comfortable and favorable for living.

For proper air circulation and creating a comfortable microclimate in the kitchen, it is necessary to install an exhaust system. It prevents the penetration of odors from the kitchen into other rooms in the apartment, especially if the kitchen is combined with another room. In addition, exhaust ventilation in the kitchen prevents fat from settling on furniture, dishes, and appliances surrounding the stove.

The need for a kitchen hood

The presence of exhaust ventilation in the kitchen is justified by serious reasons:

1. During cooking, a gas stove releases into the air a large amount of harmful substances that can harm the body: carbon monoxide, residues of unburned natural gas. In addition, there may be gas leaks from the equipment or pipeline.
2. When cooking on both electric and gas stoves, kitchen fumes are released when frying food, as well as water vapor. The latter is not capable of causing great harm to the body, but it violates the normal indoor microclimate. Kitchen fumes form harmful substances in the air that can settle not only on dishes, furniture and walls, but also inside the lungs of a person.

The presence of an efficiently functioning exhaust system in the kitchen is necessary not only for reasons of cleanliness and hygiene, but also for the safety of human health.

Owners of kitchen gas equipment should pay especially close attention to the presence of good traction.

Types of hood

Types of ventilation from the hood in the kitchen are divided into general and local. In the first case, air exchange is carried out throughout the room as a whole, including the cooking area, hob, dining area. This is a less productive option that requires additional air flow through the natural ventilation of the room. The second option is to install a kitchen hood directly above the hob.

Local exhaust, in turn, is divided into two types:

1. Filtering air, installation.
2. Pull-out umbrella.

The filter passes polluted air through itself, leaving all the soot and grease particles inside. The umbrella draws in the exhaust air and outputs it to the ventilation shaft. From the point of view of the efficiency of air purification, it is preferable to install ventilation in the kitchen of equipment of the second type.

Rules for installing exhaust ventilation

Before you install the hood in the kitchen with your own hands, you should choose it correctly:

1. It is necessary to determine the diameter of the fan. To do this, the exit of the ventilation shaft is measured, the value is rounded down - this will be the desired diameter.
2. To install a kitchen hood, you need to calculate the fan performance. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of the room, subtract from it the volume that the furniture occupies. The resulting value must be multiplied by 6, and by 12. It turns out two indicators of the lower and upper limits of fan performance. These indicators will help you choose the right fan model.
3. To prevent exhaust air from being drawn through the fan, it is necessary to choose equipment with a check valve.
4. No less important characteristics of the equipment for the hood are: the presence of a grid to prevent insects from entering; removable front panel for easy cleaning; having a timer.

Having chosen the necessary equipment, you can proceed to. In this case, it is recommended to follow some rules for installing the hood in the kitchen:

• The equipment must be properly grounded. Therefore, the installation of the hood in the kitchen is carried out by connecting to the electrical network with three wires: “phase”, “zero”, “ground” with wires in yellow insulation.
• To know how to make a hood correctly, you need to have an idea about connecting to the power supply. This is especially true for those wires of the device that are not equipped with a plug. In this case, the connection is made via a terminal block. For convenience, the socket for the terminal block can be made hidden inside the hood housing.
• It is necessary to mount the hood above the electric stove at a height of at least 70 cm, and above the gas hob, a distance of 80 cm must be observed.
• Before installing a kitchen hood, the building's air ducts should be checked for blockages. If the draft is bad, it is necessary to contact the housing office specialists to clean the mine.
• Before you make ventilation in the kitchen, it is important to choose the right duct. You can choose round aluminum corrugated tube or rigid plastic tube. In the first case, the advantage is a lower cost and an easy installation method, in the second case, space saving during installation, a more aesthetic appearance and vibration resistance.

Installing a hood in the kitchen

Do-it-yourself installation of a kitchen hood depends on the type and location of the ventilation duct. You can install ventilation inside the kitchen cabinet or make a separately located model in the form of a fireplace mantle or an inclined panel.

Installation scheme

Often violates the ventilation that is installed in the apartment. If you make another hole for the air outlet for mounting the hood, the quality of air exchange will not improve, since the cross section of the ventilation shaft will not change after such manipulations.

In order not to impair air exchange, an additional box with a special valve should be installed. The principle of its operation is simple: when the fan is not working, the valve is open, and natural ventilation occurs. When the fan is running, the resulting pressure closes the valve and thus forced ventilation takes place.

This installation scheme of the hood prevents the occurrence of reverse draft and the implementation of natural ventilation when the exhaust equipment is turned off.

In order to properly connect the hood in the kitchen, it is necessary to install the non-return valve correctly: in the horizontal channel, the damper mounting axis must take a horizontal position, and the heavier section should be tilted downwards. Without air pressure, the valve will be closed.

Fan installation

A homemade hood for the kitchen can be made from a fan mounted in the wall. For this you need:

1. Mark on the wall a place to install the fan, then make a hole of the desired diameter.
2. A fan is inserted into the hole, and the free space between the wall and the equipment is filled with mounting foam.
3. A grille is installed on the outside.
4. After the manipulations, the fan can be connected to the mains.

Do-it-yourself kitchen hood

You can make a hood in the kitchen with your own hands by embedding it in a cabinet or without it. Built-in ventilation looks organic with a kitchen set. The steps for its installation are as follows:

1. An aluminum or metal box with a check valve is made. For convenience, it can be purchased ready-made.
2. A hole is marked on the top board of the cabinet in accordance with the bottom cracker window. For the final installation, you need to outline the sides of the cracker.
3. A hole is cut in the bottom of the cabinet along the edge of the bottom of the hood.
4. Next, the shelves of the cabinet are removed and holes for the air duct are cut with a jigsaw to mount the hood.
5. A square hole is cut out on top of the cabinet board for the cracker window with an allowance of 3-5 mm along the edges.
6. A corrugation is installed: a corrugation is threaded into rounded holes, the upper end of which is formed by hands in the shape of a square and pushed into the upper hole.
7. The cabinet with corrugation is installed in place.
8. Do-it-yourself kitchen hood is inserted into the cutout hole in the cabinet. All joints of the corrugations, "crackers" with holes must be treated with silicone sealant, and then with mounting foam. Do-it-yourself kitchen hood is attached to the cabinet with self-tapping screws.
9. A corrugation is put on the exhaust pipe and secured with a clamp. It is not necessary to seal this connection, since this will make it difficult to disassemble for cleaning the ventilation, and will also create pressure drops in the area where the pipe passes into the corrugation.

When using not corrugated, but plastic pipes for air ducts, installation is carried out by connecting them to the component corners and further wiring to the ventilation duct.

If the installation of the hood in the kitchen with your own hands is carried out in the form of mounting a separate structure, a metal frame is made from a corner of 20–25 mm according to the size of the hob. It is attached to the wall under the socket of the hood. The air duct itself is installed under a drywall box. "Clapperboard" is placed on the upper cut of the box, just like on a cabinet.

To know how to make a hood in the kitchen yourself, you need to take into account the practical recommendations and advice of experts in this field. Summarizing these recommendations, the following can be noted:

1. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the kitchen should be not only exhaust, but also supply.
2. When installing the duct, it is necessary to avoid a large number of its bends in order to ensure good draft.
3. To ensure good traction, it is necessary to clear the shaft of the building from blockages.
4. Installing a check valve will help resist the supply of exhaust air.

The right one does not have a drive, a spring, but it has a damper, with an axis of rotation offset from the center.