Installation of a double switch block with a socket. Wiring diagram for a three-gang switch with a socket Light switches for bathroom, toilet and kitchen

Warm summer greetings to all from Taganrog!

In my new article, we will consider the issues of replacing the socket block with an old-style double switch, which was previously installed in all panel “Khrushchev” houses. Replacement will be carried out with a new block of switches with a socket under one frame.

As usual, there will be many photos, a wiring diagram, recommendations for mounting and connecting this device.

How this miracle of Soviet design and technology looks like is shown in the photo on the left.

Such a block consists of one socket (naturally, without grounding) and two or three switch keys. Switches turn on the lights in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen.

In principle, the idea is not bad, but over time, all this becomes unusable, because these switches are used in the apartment much more often than all the others put together.

Wiring diagram for switches with a socket in one block

The scheme is generally simple, but I will give it.

Subscribe! It will be interesting.

The following wires come to the replaced unit: phase, zero, and two wires “leave” to power the bathroom and toilet lamps. The phase is used to power the socket and switches. Zero - only for the outlet.

Wiring diagram for switches with a socket

Strictly speaking, when installing electrical wiring, lighting groups are usually separated. That is, different power wires with should go to the switches and sockets, and turn off at the same time different in the switchboard. But they did it before, out of poverty.

Dismantling the old block

Almost every day you have to deal with the concept of "PIPETS". Another pipets - at the end of the article.

So, we remove the cover, we see:

What do we see? Everything is shattered and shattered, the two upper switches are in a completely dead state, the third one is not connected, and according to the hostess, it never worked. The socket is more or less compared to them, given that in such a place it is hardly used.

The panel house is 40 years old. Turn on the lights in the kitchen and bathroom at least 10 times a day. 40x365x10=146 thousand times. They did a good job.

At this stage, we understand the wires, check where the phase is, and turn off the power. In this case, you must have a headlamp, without it in any way.

We take out the insides. The main thing is not to break off the wires and notice where everything goes.

3. We take out all the insides - the old socket, switches, metal box

The bad ends that went to the switches had to be cut off - they were still short.

The two bottom wires go to the outlet. On the left - zero, on the right - the phase, which in the old days electricians designated with black rag tape (there was no other, there were no markers either).

It is worth saying that for some reason the antique metal installation box is fastened with tin as tightly. It is fastened with some screws with nuts, which must be scrolled. I changed such blocks more than once, and each time tearing out this box is a torment. I use powerful pliers, a large flat screwdriver.

4. This will never be useful to anyone again. Thank you for your service!

Installing a new switch block with socket

Here is what is best to use in such cases:

Also, to install a block from a socket and a switch, you need a double frame, it did not get into the frame. She will be in the last photo, I promise.

And what's fresh in the VK group SamElectric.ru ?

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Recently, I use only Turkish switches and sockets, most often VI-KO. They are the best in price / quality, and very easy to install. The photo shows the VIKO Carmen model, their design is a bit old. And finishers do not like them for their rounded shape. In this sense, VIKO Karre is better - they have a modern design, and they have a perfectly rectangular shape.

Sockets Karre - television and power under a triple frame. Photo from the article

There are ready-made solid blocks for just such purposes, where a socket and a double switch are combined in one housing. Productions of Belarus, and Russia. Very uncomfortable, bad, clumsy. I DO NOT RECOMMEND.

Box - specially for two installation places, one-piece. It is better to use it than two separate ones with a jumper.

Installing the junction box. We have to cut out part of the upper side in order to minimally bend the old aluminum.

At the bottom, you have to chisel a little so that the box is flush with the wall:

Next comes the longest, dirtiest and most unpleasant. We work with alabaster or gypsum putty, use a spatula and preferably a level. After that, you can relax - smoke or (in my case) ask the hosts to pour tea.

Now we use pieces of copper wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 and, which help out a lot.

It is important that in order for this whole structure to stand for many years (up to), it is necessary to protect it electrically correctly. The current of the circuit breaker in this case should be no more than 16 A, and preferably 13 or even 10 Amperes. I have already written in detail about the choice of a circuit breaker (circuit breaker) more than once,.

We work from below.

9. We connect and install the socket first

I use Vago's double terminals for extending the wires to the switch, the quadruple for phase distribution, I managed to fasten zero directly to the socket, the length allowed.

We fix the socket with screws in the box. I already wrote, who did not read - I highly recommend. We don’t tighten it much, but you can ignore the spacer ears at all and even throw them away.

Install and connect the switch according to the wiring diagram. Securely and evenly fix the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

10.Socket and switch connected and installed. See the gap between the socket and the double switch? It should be 0.5-1 mm wide, and the same along the entire length.

The case is drawing to a close. A few smart moves...

11. Dressing a double frame

And the installation of the socket block with the switch is finished!

12. Block socket and switch on the bathroom installed

That's basically it. If something is not clear or there is something to add - ask and write in the comments. If you are interested in what I will publish on the SamElectric blog next - subscribe to receive new articles.

Update from 26 Apr. 2014: Here's another "kick": a switch for two rooms. This is an apartment in the old district of Taganrog, and this does not happen there (for example, two phases in an apartment, because between the phases - 220V, not 380) - there was one room, there were two. But the switch remains...

If you have any questions about how to connect a double switch block with a socket, please contact us in the comments!

Question from Vladimir:

Good afternoon Alexander!! Very interesting material and everything is intelligible. I ask for your advice, what to do when the phase is in two wires ?? Today, the old switch broke, almost the same as in your diagram, but there was no connection to the outlet. Kitchen, toilet, bath. There is a phase zero to the kitchen, a separate toilet and bathroom. The house is old, Khrushchev. And the switch is many years old. So, I began to check, as usual, the phase and zero. On the top two switches (toilet, bathroom three-wire wire and two phases and zero). I want to replace the switch with a three-gang one too, but I can't figure out how to connect them. If my explanation is not clear, I can send a photo.

Answer:

I am writing this article some time after Vladimir's issue was resolved. I remotely managed to understand how everything is connected to him and suggest how to replace the old block of switches. I decided to publish the solution of this consultation, since I often get questions about connecting such three-gang switches and this information can be useful to someone.

I received a photo from Vladimir and then told him what and how to check, so that I myself could remotely understand his scheme. So, how it was with Vladimir and me!

The photo below shows his old switch box with a socket. This is a typical version of the Soviet switch, which still stands in thousands of apartments in our vast country.

Here it is without the lid...

And these are already contacts with connected wires ...

It turns out that Vladimir's top two switches are connected with a 3-core wire, and the bottom one with 2-core. The socket was not connected. After reading my article, Vladimir began to look for a phase conductor using an indicator screwdriver. It turned out that he has three of them, that is, the indicator on the screwdriver glows from three wires. See the photo below - these are wires "1", "2" and "6".

In principle, this should not be, and we began to think about how everything is connected here.

If the top two switches and one bottom switch are connected by two different wires, then it will be correct if only two phase conductors come to them. One to pin "4" (see photo above) and a black jumper from it, the phase should be transferred to pin "3". The second phase conductor must come to any contact "5" or "6" of the lower switch.

There seem to be no questions about the lower switch, but there were two upper ones. How does this phase come to contacts "1" and "2"? Here, when the keys are closed, the phases must meet on the contacts "3" and "4" connected by a jumper. How does lighting work then?

In fact, it turned out that the switches were not tearing the phase wire as expected, but the zero one. Then why does the screwdriver indicator light up and show the presence of a phase on the three wires "1", "2" and "6". After all, the phase goes directly to the lamps and has nothing to do with the switch.

By the way, Vladimir, I wanted to install such a 3-key switch instead of a large block. In order to realize this, he had to show ingenuity and skill, and he succeeded in doing it.

I write to Vladimir the following:

Vladimir, of course we will succeed.

Your switches break "zero", not phase. This is not correct, of course, but there are many places where this is done. You can verify this as follows. When you turn on the light in any room, the phase on the contact of this switch should disappear, i.e. the light on the screwdriver-indicator will not glow. You can also unscrew the light bulb from the cartridge and the "phase" on the contact of the switch will also disappear. Check it. If you turn on the light everywhere or unscrew all the lamps, then there should be no phases on the wires "1", "2", "6". In this case, the connection diagram of the new 3-key switch will be as follows. We connect the wire "4" or "5" to the common contact. This will be a common incoming "zero" on the switch block. Wires "1", "2", "6" "zero" will go to the lamps.

Why does the light in the switch glow if it breaks zero? Everything is simple. A "phase" came to one contact of the lamp. Then it goes to the light bulb, passes through its filament and through another contact in the cartridge goes to the switch. If you unscrew the lamp, the circuit will open and there will be no phase on the switch. Try to check this option with an indicator screwdriver.

In the photo below, on the back of the new switch, I drew its diagram and signed the contacts with wire numbers from the old switch to explain which wire and where to connect.

As a result, Vladimir succeeded and he sent me the following letter:

Dear Alexander!! I want to express my deep gratitude for your attention and responsiveness and say a simple human THANK YOU!! Everything worked out, everything was assembled as you advised. And now I hand over the work to the teacher. (My wife has already accepted my work). I am sending you a screenshot of my work. Thanks again. I am sure that you are doing a great job with your advice and consultations. When you are respected for good deeds, then everything in life will be fine. Good luck to you and all the best. Goodbye with respect Vladimir.

And I also want to thank Vladimir for his kind words.

Good luck to everyone and remember that you will succeed! Thank you!

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Switch connection bath toilet kitchen with socket

Switch block for bathroom and toilet

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Everyone says that only we are the best and give a bunch of arguments. supposedly the company will do and disappear, and we have been working for 30 years. They say the same in the zhek...

Switch box with socket for bathroom

Such a failure, I changed the block: a socket, three switches (well, standard) to a block: a socket, 2 double switches, a bathroom, a toilet, a kitchen, and a lighting device ...

In panel houses, three-gang switches with a socket are widely used. They stand in the corridor and control the light in three rooms - a kitchen, a bathroom and a bathroom. The socket here is provided for various household needs, for example, to turn on the vacuum cleaner, razor, hair dryer, etc. A lot of time has passed since they were installed and today they require replacement. It is not difficult to buy such three-gang switches with a socket, but not everyone can figure out how to connect it. In this article, I analyze in detail the connection diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket, with which you can do everything yourself.

Before starting all work, be sure to de-energize the apartment or this line. Safety is paramount.

During the dismantling of the old unit, remember, or rather, sign all the wires that you will disconnect. This will allow you to quickly figure out which wire goes where. In a nutshell about wires - the meaning here is this:

• from the junction box to the switch block, one two-wire wire fits and is connected to the socket contacts;
• from this socket from the "phase" contact there is a jumper to the common contact of the switch block (this is the only black wire in the figure below);
• from the other contacts of the switch block, three phase conductors go to the lamps.

I think these explanations are not enough, so I sketched a connection diagram for a three-gang switch with a socket, where I painted everything in detail. Here you pay attention to the drawn lines and do not particularly pay attention to a bunch of wires in the block, since amateur performance is induced here and the owners of the apartment have powered another outlet. See below...

In the photo above, a plastic box from a new three-gang switch with a socket is already mounted in the wall. It exactly fits into the grooved recess from the old switch. It can be planted on plaster, or it can be attached with dowels. Here the choice is yours.

Below is a photo without my art. This unit is in the apartment of one family of pensioners. The wiring here is old and they did not want to change it in any case. Some of the wires were broken and they were extended through single terminal blocks. Next, we see the yellow-green wiring - this is the "zero" conductor that goes to the outlet mounted in the kitchen (this is already an amateur performance of some electrician).

The switches themselves are already put in place below. In fact, they can not be removed, since there is still access to the contact bolts.

I removed them out of curiosity...

Now we put the body in place. It is attached with three bolts.

Setting up a side key...

Now another side key...

At the final stage, we put the middle key. That's all the three-gang switch with a socket is ready for operation. In order to disassemble it and get to the contacts, you need to follow the steps in the reverse order described here.

If these explanations are not enough for you, then read the new material supplementing this article: Supplement to the article "Wiring diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket". Here I consider two different schemes for connecting such a block and give detailed explanations.

Let's smile:

Physics teacher - Vovochka:
What happens if you insert a magnet into a coil and take it back out?
- An induction current occurs in the circuit.
- Right! What if it takes a long time?
- An electrician can be born.