Caring for bicycle disc brakes. Bicycle care - main steps

A bicycle is an excellent street transport that will give you an unforgettable travel experience, add strength and health, and also quickly deliver you to the desired geographical point. The combination of all these delights is achieved not only by the advanced brand of the bicycle, but also by its good technical condition.

Periodic inspection of all main components, timely replacement of failed ones and maintenance of already installed parts in working condition, as well as proper storage - all this will avoid major costly repairs and maximize the life of the bicycle. In this article we will look at how to properly care for your bicycle.

Technical condition inspection

In order for a bicycle to always be a joy to travel with, not to suddenly break down on the way, and to eliminate health risks, it requires a thorough check. There is nothing complicated, as usual, the instructions are simple and include a series of inspections:

• everyday, just before the trip;
• weekly;
• seasonal.

Before you take your bike out for a walk, be sure to check the brakes and steering wheel. The requirements for the brake system are instantaneous operation of the mechanism when the lever is pressed and unworn pads. The braking surface, whether rim or disc, must be dry and clean. In the case of a foot drum brake, everything is simple - it should immediately stop the wheel when you press the pedals back.

For disc brakes it is important: precise adjustment, minimal clearance, clean disc surface

Correctly positioned steering wheel is perpendicular to the direction of the wheel. Before leaving, the reliability of its attachment to the column is checked. The steering wheel must be adjusted to a comfortable height, but not higher than the limit mark. must be firmly engaged with the bicycle fork and also sufficiently lubricated.

It is necessary to check the tire pressure every time. The condition of the wheel as a whole and the ease of riding depend on how much the wheels are inflated. It is advisable to strictly adhere to the prescribed pressure for this type of tire.

Weekly bike inspection includes:

• checking brake adjustment;
• pulling the connecting rods to the carriage;
• checking all bolted and eccentric fastenings;
• lubricate parts as necessary.

Adjusting the brakes shows how accurately they will operate. This, in turn, determines their durability. So, with disc brakes, adjusting the distances and cable tension is fundamentally important. Without it, the system will quickly begin to wear out. However, this also applies to rim brakes.

The accuracy of torque transmission to the stars depends on the attachment of the connecting rods to the carriage assembly. High-speed road bikes will most often require such adjustments.

The fastenings of wheels, handlebars, saddles, fenders, brakes and additional canopies must be secured all the way. Every week we inspect all parts where lubricant is applied.

And carefully wipe off excess grease and dirt with a clean cloth.

Mandatory before and after the cycling season:

• bushings for defects and malfunctions;
• integrity of rims and spokes;
• for damage to the sprockets;
• measuring chain wear.

In general, you need to check your bike constantly and comprehensively so that it does not upset you with unpleasant surprises along the way.

Washing the bike, cleaning and lubricating parts

Caring for a bicycle is not only about constantly checking it, but also about servicing all those parts that are in use. Those mechanisms that are in close contact with the road are subject to the greatest wear:

• wheel bushings;
• carriage;
• stars and switches;
• chain.

Wheel hubs should not be washed under pressure. Direct contact with water should be avoided. When washing a bicycle after mud and rain, you need to carefully go around them with a damp cloth, then thoroughly lubricate them. Driving on dry, dusty roads also has an impact. The lubricant dries out and dust may accumulate. Therefore, even if the bike does not require washing, it is advisable to wipe the bushings and then lubricate them.

Carriage maintenance:

• leak testing;
• removing dirt and sand from the axle between the connecting rods and the glass;
• Apply a small amount of lubricant to these areas.

This simple procedure will prevent dirt from penetrating into the carriage bearings, which will increase the service life of the unit.

Switches must be kept extremely clean. Despite their protection from external conditions, dirt can still penetrate there. To be sure of the long service life of the devices, they also need to be wiped with a slightly damp cloth from time to time.

Caring for a bicycle chain and sprockets is a mandatory procedure, regardless of the conditions and frequency of riding. Of course, you will have to clean out the dirt after extreme off-road trips more often, but ordinary people who like to ride in the city should not relax on this score.
The chain and sprockets are washed and lubricated at the same time. When manually cleaning with brushes, the bike will have to be disassembled. If a chain washer is used, disassembly is not necessary.

And of course, a comprehensive wash, especially after those rainy trips. Washing with a hose, and especially a Karcher, requires mandatory lubrication of all components where it is necessary:

• steering column;
• seat springs;
• carriage unit;
• chain and sprockets;
• edges of wheel hubs.

When securing the wheels with nuts after disassembling the bicycle, you can apply a little grease to the threads of the axle so that the nuts are easier to tighten and the axle itself does not turn.

Taking care of your mountain bike also means keeping the shock absorbers in good condition. Over time, the springs sag and the damper fails. They also require adjustment. If a problem occurs with the suspension fork or rear suspension, it is better to contact a workshop and have the problem fixed there.

Bicycle storage rules

Storage is as integral a part of bike care as maintenance. Proper storage comes down to the following points:

• separate place;
• purity;
• lack of high humidity;
• uniform temperature.

Storage locations can be very diverse: corner, wall, mezzanine, garage, utility room. It is highly not recommended to keep a bicycle on an unheated balcony, even a covered one. High humidity in winter, dryness in summer, daily temperature changes - all this is extremely harmful to the frame, wheels and mechanisms.

With this approach the bike will not last long

Dust, dirt and, especially, water are also very harmful to a bicycle during long-term storage. The place where the bike will wait out of season must be kept clean. It is also worth allocating at least a little space for the bicycle and positioning it so that it does not interfere. If the room is unsuitable for storage (for example, dusty or with high humidity), and there are no other options, you can use an airtight case.

A properly functioning bicycle is the key to long, enjoyable and rewarding cycling trips. Regular checks, timely maintenance and proper storage will not only allow you to use the full potential of your bike, but also extend its service life.

There is an opinion among cyclists that a bicycle needs careful care. Is it so? Let's check.

Transmission.

Each of us knows that the high-quality operation of a bicycle transmission provides convenience, comfort and the required acceleration when traveling. Many people forget that, just like in a car, there is some wear and tear on components: chains, sprockets, switches and their rollers. For high-quality operation, it is necessary to check the presence of lubricant on these components every day before the trip. A lack of lubrication or an excess of it can negatively affect the operation of bicycle components and, not only that, your safety.

Let's consider cases when it is necessary to urgently prevent this node:

The chain rollers shine

When driving you hear unpleasant squeaks in the area of ​​the rear sprockets

Shift clarity has changed (especially on the front sprockets)

These three cases are some of the main signs of insufficient lubrication in the transmission. What to do? How to fix? Many beginners ask this question and frantically turn to services to eliminate the defect, paying money for something that can and should be done independently and regularly.

So, the treatment procedure:

· We clean the chain, sprockets, derailleur rollers (rear), cassette (rear sprockets) from sand or dried dirt

· We take a lubricant (the consistency should be moderately thick, but not thicker than lithol), it is better to take a specialized bicycle lubricant or, as a last resort, the so-called spindle (sewing machine oil)

· Using a pipette, we begin to lubricate the chain: drop 1 drop onto the inside of the chain link (i.e., on the side of the chain that comes into contact with the transmission components)

Remove excess grease with a rag

· Let dry for 5 to 15 minutes

· Everything is ready - now you are back on the saddle and can enjoy the freedom of movement on your bike.

Braking system (brakes).

In this article we will not discuss the care of “hydraulic” brakes, since you will not be able to service and check the operation of the hydraulics yourself. To do this, it is really worth contacting a specialized bike shop for service and diagnostics.

So let's begin... Every cyclist eventually feels the so-called sagging of the brake handle and more and more effort and distance are required to come to a complete stop. What's the matter?

But here's the thing - the pads begin to wear out over time and the increasing distance forces you to press the bicycle brake handle harder for longer.

Main reasons:

Mechanical wear of pads

· Stretched cable

Brake handle defective

With a stretched cable, everything is simple - unscrew the bolt securing the cable and compress the pads. The defect of the handle is still the same - you will definitely see it. What to do with the pads? There are two solutions to this problem:

· Flatten the pads using a tensioner on the handle (an aluminum bolt is usually silver in color), when unscrewing, you tighten the brake cable, thereby bringing the pads closer to the braking surface. There is nothing supernatural here and it can be done at home. But this is not always a solution to the problem, since the life of the pads is limited.

· Make a replacement brake pads:

A) if these are mechanical disc brakes, then you should remove your pads (usually for this you need to unscrew the brake cable to spread the pads, pull out the wheel and use the upper guides to pull the pads out of the machine) and then with an example (required) and buy a similar size. The installation procedure is reverse, and by the way, there are many videos on video hosting about this.

b) if these are ordinary rim brakes, as they are popularly called, then it’s enough just to go and buy similar ones (the brand is not particularly important), but the size plays a big role, since the larger the contact area, the correspondingly better the braking quality.

I repeat, for hydraulic disc brakes, do not do diagnostics yourself, since correct replacement or pumping of hydraulic fluid requires experience and it is advisable to do this process together, since the technology is slightly different from conventional brakes.

In rare cases, more detailed diagnostics and replacement of components are required, but these cases often occur with fairly intensive use of the bicycle by more experienced cyclists. As I said, this article is dedicated to initial diagnostics and maintenance for beginners and cyclists with low mileage in the urban cycle.

I hope the article will help many people understand the basic technical points that are not so difficult to do for greater pleasure and the life of your bike.

Sincerely bicycle store VELOlike.com

Have fun!

How often should you wash your bike? Much depends on the weather and the area where you ride.
If there is rain and slush, and even on rough terrain (returning from a hike, for example), go straight to the bathroom; if in dry weather and around the city, once every 2-3 months. But in winter, you need to wash your bike immediately upon arrival in a warm room, before the snow and ice begin to melt and the dirt that has accumulated on and in the bike flows into the mechanisms with the resulting water. If your bike has been through a serious alteration, and while moving it drank some water, and dirty water at that, when washing you can not be afraid to pour water on the bushings, carriage, sprockets, and derailleurs. Although you still shouldn’t overdo it. Strong water pressure is good for washing.
In winter, never expose your freshly washed bike to the cold. Frozen water, expanding inside the mechanisms, can damage them. You can dry the bike with a hairdryer or simply wipe it with a cloth. By the way, a rag is the deadliest and most popular tool for a cyclist.
Hard-to-reach places (system, switches, cassette, shifters) have the disgusting property of accumulating dirt. It is recommended to wipe them with a damp cloth once every two or three trips (or once every 100-150 kilometers in summer, once every 40-80 in winter).

Before washing

Before washing, use a chain degreaser (such as Pedro's Oranj Peelz). It is best to avoid direct water jets coming into contact with any parts of the bike, especially the electronics. To prevent water from entering the frame, use a silicone compound to treat the flap fasteners.

Washing products

Liquid detergent. Soap or Fairy and water. If the washing liquid does not satisfy you, try using car shampoo instead. Car washing shampoos are gentler and form a film of wax on the surface, making the bike look more impressive than after bathing in a soapy solution.
There are now a lot of special cycling cleaning products (for example, Pedro’s for cross-country bicycles, and Pro-Clean for downhill bicycles; the latter product is used for washing motorcycles and does not damage disc brake pads).
A liquid detergent in combination with a soft/hard sponge washes not only elementary sand, clay and other organic dirt, but also copes well with oil stains (oil, bitumen, stains of unknown nature).

Degreaser
Brushes. A sponge can be used to clean the frame, but the dirtier parts of the bike definitely need a brush, especially if you want to give your bike a really good clean. You will need two wheel brushes: one for the chain and gears, and one for the rims and bushings. To clean the cassette, you can use disposable cotton swabs soaked in kerosene.

Washing

Washing the bike in the bathtub. The wheels are removed from the bicycle and it is placed upside down in the bathtub, with the saddle on its bottom and the grips on the sides, large clods of dirt and grass are cleaned off with your hands and thrown out so as not to clog the drain, and then a fairly strong stream from the shower helps use a stiff brush with plastic bristles to wash off all the dirt (Fairy is very appropriate here). However, this must be done with great care, as there is a danger of scratching the surface with dirt particles. You should not direct a direct stream of water into the grooves of the carriage and headset - if water gets there, it will most likely remain there for a long time, and this does not bode well. It should also be said that if you have just come from riding in cold weather, you should let the bike warm up, or you will have to wash it with cool water - sudden temperature fluctuations will not benefit your pet. The wheels are washed separately, there are no subtleties here, but again, do not direct the stream of water into the bushings.

Rinse the main components of the bicycle - rims, wheels, frame. Wait until the water saturates the dried dirt, otherwise you will scratch the lacquer finish of the frame when you clean off the sand. Avoid getting copious amounts of water on the following components - bushing boots, cartridge, shifters, but you don’t have to be afraid of water getting on the chain, it’s not afraid of it. After letting the frame get wet, start cleaning the dirt off the bike. Try to wash off, not clean off, the dirt - don’t skimp on the water.

Having cleaned the main components, move on to the bushings, rear and front derailleur, and system. They should be washed carefully, with a small amount of water. This is especially true for the cartridge, since there is no protective boot at the point where it is attached to the bushing, and the mechanism of the latter is especially vulnerable to water.
The chain is the most complex mechanism in a bicycle in terms of the number of parts, which constantly experiences heavy loads and is always located among city dust and dirt. It requires constant maintenance, since its wear leads to grinding of the teeth of the system and cartridge, as well as incorrect operation of the speed switches. Set the switch values ​​so that the chain is on the smaller front and rear sprockets. Place a bucket under it and pull it down to the water. You should try to clean each chain link from dirt and old grease, so feel free to immerse it in water and clean it with a toothbrush. It is more convenient to use a special machine for cleaning the chain. You pour warm water into it and the fairies. The result, compared to a toothbrush, is achieved an order of magnitude faster and easier (pour it - put it on - spin the pedals - pour out the dirt - repeat if necessary).
If after washing the bicycle there are areas where drops of dirt and foam remain, they should be removed using a degreaser. An old toothbrush makes it easy to reach hard-to-reach places.

After washing

Wipe the frame, fenders, saddle and handlebars with a clean cloth (suede works well). Then use an aerosol can of lubricant to lubricate the bushings, switches, etc. mechanisms where water can penetrate.
When dry, the metal frame may appear tarnished due to the formation of phosphoric acid salts on its surface. To give the surface an initial shine, treat the frame with polish, which is used to treat car coatings. If after washing you find dirt that the detergent cannot remove, treat the area with a degreaser, scrub with a brush, and then rinse again.

Useful tips for washing your bike

To remove the most stubborn dirt and even rust (for example, it helps if the bike was stored in damp conditions all winter, for example, in a garage, and became very lousy), the miracle liquid WD-40 helps a lot. It is a penetrating lubricant used as a powerful solvent. WD-40 also helps when you need to separate metal parts that have stuck to each other, for example, threaded connections. To do this, you need to fill them with liquid, say, overnight.
Liqui Moly also has a similar product - LM40 and LM47 - penetrating lubricants containing, in addition to oil and kerosene (the main components of "Vedehi") additives that reduce friction and increase the service life of parts (dissolving rust, long-term protection against corrosion, extending the life of plastic and rubber casings, etc.).

When washing your bike, avoid exposing it to direct sunlight, as hot weather and the sun “dry out” the frame, causing cracks to appear on its surface. You can use a hose, but keep the pressure low and avoid spraying the wheel hubs, bottom bracket, derailleurs, or steering column.

You should never wash your bike before riding, because... The water retained in the “shirts” and other components will freeze at low temperatures, disrupting the functionality of these components.

After winter rides, before bringing the bike into a warm room, it is better to leave it in the vestibule for 10 minutes and during this time clean off the snow and dirt with a broom.
If you have been riding your bike in the forest and there is no salt dirt on it, then it will be enough to wipe it dry with a clean rag. Otherwise, it should be washed thoroughly, preferably with car shampoo.

After taking a warm bath with foam and aromatic oils with your favorite bike, you need to wash it (the bathtub) itself, and the best way to clean the bathtub from oily dirt is with car shampoo!

On a multi-day hike, when there is neither Fairy nor a chain cleaning machine. In addition, a clean chain remains clean for exactly an hour, and then it will either rain or a sandstorm. It is then that the chain begins to mercilessly grind down. The only way out is to simply wipe it with a toothbrush and a rag and generously lubricate it with oil! By the way, one more observation on a long hike: if the chain was very dirty, then in dry weather, after an hour or two of driving, the dirt falls off on its own, and the chain becomes dry and clean (even shiny), then you just need to lubricate it.

For the lazy, the easiest way is to wash your bike in a car wash. Just reduce the pressure in the compressor - and go ahead. There is an opportunity to wash it immediately with shampoo, and then just rinse it off with clean water. In total, the procedure takes 2-3 minutes.
After this procedure, all that remains is to wipe the bike with a cloth and lubricate it.
Then, it’s true, it’s a pity to continue driving it - it’s very clean.

Remember, a clean bike is the first step to having a functioning bike.

Dry wash

There were no airtight bike jackets in the 70s. Everything used in mountain biking came from road bikes, which were not exposed to mud like mountain bikes. So we started ruining the bike components when we washed them with water because the dirt was getting into the bearings - what most people don't realize is that when they wash the bike, the water dissolves the dirt and this lovely clay liquid gets into the bearings just fine. Many people are still of the opinion that you shouldn’t wash your bike and that dry cleaning is enough. Here's how it happens.

Process:

— After the ride, let the dirt dry.
- Start cleaning the top of the bike with a bottle brush in one hand and a narrow solution brush in the other. These brushes will get you into all the nooks and crannies: around the derailleurs and brake levers and under the saddle, under the seatpost, saddle clamp, brakes, top tube, front and rear shifters.
- Take a large nylon brush, clean off large accumulations of dirt everywhere - at the bottom of the down tube, the crown of the fork, from the fork itself.
— Removed most of the dirt - move on to the chassis. Take a brush to remove rust paint. Clean the inside and outside of the chain links.
- Clean the cassette, clean both sides of the connecting rod gears, lubricate the chain - and you're done.

Please note: every climate is different. There are certain types of soil that will harden like cement. In this case, you will have to resort to water to soften the dirt. It is best to use warm, soapy water in a bowl. Immerse the same brushes in a basin and remove dirt this way.

To ensure that your bike is always ready to ride, it is enough to follow a few simple rules for caring for it. Thus, you will reduce the time to prepare for the riding season and reduce the cost of bike repairs.

If you determine in a timely manner, for example, that a bearing has failed and replace it immediately, then while riding, and even more so during a race, you will not have to waste precious time on repairing the entire unit. In addition, such forethought will save you a lot of money.

If you don’t pay due attention to the condition of the bike, it can become so deplorable that you can no longer get by with minor replacements. Therefore, it is worth following a bicycle inspection schedule, dividing it into daily, weekly and annual.

Daily inspection

Before each departure you should check:

• Inflating tires. It should be different for different road conditions: a little more than two atmospheres for a route where areas of soft ground are possible, three atmospheres is the pressure sufficient for a moderately bumpy road, while for a smooth road with a hard surface a pressure of four atmospheres is required.
• Steering wheel condition. It should be level, at a height that suits you, and securely attached to the stem, which, in turn, to the head tube.
• Saddle. It must be installed level, maintaining the height required by the cyclist, and securely fastened.
• Brakes. The effectiveness of the brakes must be checked by pushing the bike forward. At the same time, observe how much each brake is able to block the wheel by pressing the brake handle approximately two centimeters from the steering wheel.
• Transfers. The smooth operation of the gears can be easily checked by lifting the rear wheel off the ground and rotating the pedals by hand. Switch speeds at the same time. This way you can check all combinations.

Weekly check-up

After about a week of riding, you need to clean your bike and, in addition to the above, check:

• Wheels. Inspect the wheels and check for broken spokes. Also, check their vibration. To do this, you need to raise the wheel above the ground and spin it slowly. At the same time, fix your gaze on one point, for example, on the brake pad. If the wheel begins to vibrate from side to side, in relation to the point where the gaze is fixed, this means that it requires repair.
• Brakes. Press the brake lever all the way and check what happens. The brake pads must press the edge of the rim with their entire surface. If this does not happen, then the brakes need to be adjusted.
• Tires. Tires should be inspected for visible damage and scuffs. If you find foreign objects stuck in the tread, remove them. Or replace the tire if necessary.
• Connecting rods. Tighten the bolts holding the connecting rods to the carriage using a wrench.
• General check. Be sure to check that the screws and bolts are tightened well enough, that everything is adjusted correctly, and that all moving parts of the bicycle move freely. Repair or replace all damaged bicycle parts.
• Lubrication. All parts that require this must be treated with a special lubricant, and excess lubricant must be removed with a soft cloth.

Annual inspection

It is worth noting that when riding in sports mode, such an inspection must be carried out every month. Then the bike will serve you for a very, very long time, of course, if you do not damage the frame. If you ride a bicycle year-round, then the procedure described below should be carried out twice a year. But usually cycling enthusiasts use it only one season a year. In this case, it is enough to carry out the work described below once a year at the end of the season. Then by the beginning of the next season your bike will be ready and weekly inspections will be enough.

So, first, complete all the procedures and work described in the “weekly inspection” section. At the same time, be sure to note which details require special attention. They may require replacement or repair. Then proceed according to the instructions below:

• Wheels. Inspect the wheels for mechanical damage to the rims and tires. Take them off. The wheel should spin freely and not be overtightened, so you need to check the bushings for play. It shouldn't exist. It is best to disassemble and lubricate the bushings.
• Chain. Remove and measure the length of a 100-link piece of chain. If the length exceeds 129.5 cm, replace the entire chain. If the chain begins to stretch, then this is a significant sign of its wear, which may result in damage to the transmission. A worn chain will also wear out the rear and front sprockets. If the chain is not very worn, then simply wash it with solvent and be sure to lubricate it immediately to avoid corrosion. Then reinstall the chain.
• Carriage. Check how easily it rotates. If necessary, remove the connecting rod, and then disassemble and repair the bearing, if the carriage can be repaired. If your bike has cartridge bearings, then you should contact a service center to repair them.
• Steering column. It should rotate easily. Make sure this is the case. It is best to disassemble it and lubricate the bearings.
• Switches. When you remove the chain, be sure to check both derailleurs and lubricate them. When doing this, be sure to make sure that the rod operates smoothly and that the rollers (small wheels) of the rear derailleur turn freely. Replace or repair them if necessary.
• Shock absorbers. They are quite complex bicycle parts. It is best to have them inspected and replaced by an experienced bicycle mechanic.
• Cleaning your bike. As your bike gets dirty, it needs to be washed. As a rule, about once a month in dry weather and much more often in rainy weather.

The washing procedure consists of several stages:

1. Simply walk over a dry bicycle with a soft cloth or brush to remove all dust and dirt. Wet dirt should be washed off with plenty of water. Getting water into the carriage, steering column bearings and bushings must be avoided!
2. All hard-to-reach places should be wiped with a wet cloth. To do this, you can wrap a screwdriver around a damp cloth and clean the gaps between the rear and front sprockets, the derailleur rod and other difficult places using it.
3. Before the next ride, be sure to let the bike dry. When it is dry, be sure to lubricate the chain and all components that need it.

Remove accessories from the steering wheel. This could be a flashlight, a horn, etc. If you have V-brakes, release the brake cables. Starting with the front brake, press the pads against the rim to release the cable tension. Then release the cable by sliding it through the top and repeat the same procedure with the rear brake.

Turn the bike upside down. To avoid scratching your grips and saddle, lay an old towel or rag on the ground (or fork out a couple hundred and get a special stand). From one side of the bike, grab the frame from the other side - with one hand on the bottom of the frame and the other on the part of the frame where the seatpost goes. Then lift the bike and turn it over.

• Another option: hang the bike by the saddle. To protect the bottom of the saddle, use a branch or rafter to protect it. When the bicycle is suspended right side up, the chain is in a special position, under the influence of gravity.
• Another option: hang it. Hang your bike behind the balcony by wrapping a rope around the handlebars and then tying it to the balcony and to the seat.