Gloxinia bloomed flowers. Gloxinia has faded - what to do? The inflorescences of the plant come in several tones.

Gloxinia is an attractive home plant that has a lush, long flowering. The flowering phase takes a lot of energy from the plant, so when the gloxinia has faded, you need to take a number of supportive measures that will allow you to save the weak tuber that remains to winter in the ground - more on this later in the article.

Gloxinia flowering time

Gloxinia begins to bloom in May-June and ends in July-August. But if ideal conditions were created indoors, gloxinia can exit the dormant phase as early as early February, then in early March it will enter the flowering phase and exit it in June. On average, the phase lasts 2 months, under favorable conditions - all summer.

Did you know? In the language of flowers, introduced by Charles II in the 18th century, gloxinia means "love at first sight."

Features of the period under review

With the appearance of 2-3 pairs of leaves on the plant, flower buds begin to form. The type of flowering of the described plant is capped. About 10 buds can be laid on one sprout. Inflorescences may be bell-shaped or shoe-shaped. Flowers are simple and double, depending on the variety. In the first, the petals are arranged in one row, in the second - in 2–5 rows. The color palette is varied, dominated by shades of red, purple, white. Petals can be monochromatic or bicolor.

During this period, gloxinia needs more careful care. A flowering plant needs to be shaded from bright light. The temperature in the room should be maintained within + 22 ° C and the air humidity above average - 60–80%.

Faded buds, along with pedicels, must be removed immediately so that they do not interfere with the development of new ones. Plants need 12-14 hours of daylight. If in your climatic zone the daylight hours do not correspond to the specified parameter, use phytolamps to illuminate flowering plants.

If the phase began at the standard time, most specimens can bloom again. The flower needs help by cutting off the top of the rosette after the last flowers have withered. There should be 2-4 leaf shoots left on the plant.

With repeated flowering, caused by artificial or occurring naturally, the bushes need to be fed. On a shortened outlet, secondary shoots are formed. Of these, you need to choose 2-4 of the strongest, cut off the rest. Then watering is carried out with the addition of Uniflor-growth top dressing.

Important! Without the introduction of stimulating drugs and careful care, gloxinia may die after re-flowering.

As soon as the first ovaries of buds appear, the flower must be fed with Uniflor-Flower fertilizer. Repeated flowering will be less abundant than the first.

What to do and how to care for a flower after flowering?

When gloxinia has faded, the main task of the grower is to organize proper care, which involves the following activities:

  • pruning;
  • soil enrichment with nutrients;
  • watering.

Most often, in September-October, flowers independently prepare for a dormant period, dropping foliage.

But especially active specimens will need to be helped to enter the winter preparation phase - for this:

  • reduce the intensity of watering;
  • gradually reduce the air temperature to + 15 ° C;
  • reduce daylight hours to 8 hours.

pruning

When the leaves with cuttings go down, sanitary pruning is carried out. In this case, you need to use a sterile instrument. The cut is made even, leaving stumps about 2–4 cm high.

Fertilization

After the last flower wilts, pre-winter fertilizing is carried out with fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen: potassium monophosphate is well suited in this regard. For 2 liters of water, 5 g of the substance will be required. One bush takes 400–500 ml of working solution.

Watering mode

After pruning, the stump is watered once a week for a month, then the tuber is left alone until it wakes up. Humidity before waking up should fluctuate between 60-70%. This can be achieved by placing a container of moistened gravel next to the plant.

Why gloxinia does not bloom?

There are several reasons why gloxinia does not bloom:

  • deficiency or excess of moisture - adjust watering;
  • when the flower is kept in a room at a temperature below +15 ° C, the buds do not bloom - restore the optimal temperature regime;
  • an excess of nitrogen in the soil - when choosing fertilizer, give preference to compositions with a high content of potassium;
  • the plant is in direct sunlight - change the location of the pot.

The survival of the tuber depends on how the grower will continue to act after the flowering of gloxinia.

Did you know? Astrologers attribute gloxinia to talisman flowers for Taurus. When growing such a plant at home, a representative of this zodiac sign will be able to fully reveal their potential.

If all the rules have been followed, in the spring the plant will enter the active vegetation phase with renewed vigor.

Flower growers are often at a loss what to do after the end of flowering plants at home or in the garden. In today's article, you will learn what to do next after the gloxinia has faded?

Gloxinia blooms well and continues to please with flowering, if you introduce basic care and monitor the condition of the plant. Flowering in young gloxinia is not as lush as in older plants, but they give excellent leaf mass and gradually form a strong stem. To stimulate flowering leaving only 2 sheets on the bottom- this helps put nutrients into the stem and buds of gloxinia.

What to do after flowering gloxinia:

  • Trim the stem;
  • Leave the lower leaves;
  • Start feeding the flower;

Nitrogen components are suitable for fertilizer, as they stimulate the growth of green mass. The feeding system has been changing since the formation of buds - they are already making phosphorus-potassium fertilizers by reducing nitrogen.

What to do after the second flowering of gloxinia:

  • Reduce watering;
  • Move to a less lit place;
  • Do not feed;

Gloxinia blooms after the second year by mid-autumn. At this point, you need to reduce watering and completely stop fertilizing - the plant goes into a dormant period. If leaves remain on gloxinia by this period, then with minimal care they will gradually die off and this is normal. Our goal is to bring gloxinia into a state of complete rest for 4 months so that the tuber accumulates nutrients. It is stored in a cool place. Read on which lunar day is it right to transplant indoor flowers?

How to store gloxinia tuber after flowering:

  • At a temperature of 12 ° C;
  • In the dark;
  • Without exposure to moisture or drafts;

Storage of gloxinia tuber is carried out in two ways: place it in a pot in a dark and cool place, or transplant into the sand. Often, flower growers dig up and completely clean the gloxinia tuber after flowering, leaving it in a container and not filling it with anything. In this embodiment, it is possible to store, but the tuber dries up, but moisture still remains in the soil, and you can periodically add a little water. Gloxinia tuber can be stored in the refrigerator- it’s more convenient to inspect it, check if it’s dry, you can moisten and wake it up at any convenient time, but artificial lighting should not be affected, so wrap it with an opaque cloth.

After a dormant period, the gloxinia tuber is awakened in the spring. Gradually, it will begin to germinate in the soil mixture in the pot. In sand or in dry storage, the tuber wakes up and needs to be planted before the start of the new season. Read how to wake up gloxinia after winter? The dormant period contributes to future lush flowering - the plant needs rest. Equally important is the planting technique, the choice of soil mixture, pot and placement. In the complex, techniques will give you a beautiful, flowering plant for many years.


↓ Write in the comments what do you do after gloxinia blooms? How to store a flower tuber? Send photos of gloxinia in storage.

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www.tonature.info

CORRECT care for gloxinia after flowering. REMINDER. Having decided to decorate their home with a wonderful gloxinia flower, many, out of inexperience, do not know what to do with the plant after it has faded for the first time. The main thing is to follow the plant and take care of it properly, in this case, gloxinia will thank you with lush flowering! First bloom. Young gloxinia blooms very modestly for the first time. Only a few flowers can be seen on the plant. When they fade, cut off the stem immediately. Leave only two pairs of the lowest leaves. This must be done so that from the leaves, or rather from those places in which they germinate from the stem, new, young stepchildren go. The plant, thus, will become more and more, gradually its crown will become lush and large. During this period, the plant needs top dressing. It usually consists of nitrogen fertilizers. Stepchildren will gradually grow and new flowers will bloom on them. As soon as the first buds begin to form, you should re-feed, already phosphorus. You can use fertilizer for flowering plants.
Second bloom. The second flowering lasts quite a long time and ends almost with the beginning of the autumn period. When flowering begins to fade, it will be necessary to reduce watering. Feeding is no longer worth it. Fading, the plant will begin to dry out gradually, and its leaves will take on a yellowish tint. Out of ignorance, it may seem that the plant has begun to die and will soon die completely. This is not so, gloxinia begins a dormant period. The plant is no longer watered and cleaned in a dark place. When flowering is fully completed, the stem is cut as much as possible, leaving no more than two centimeters above the soil surface. The soil in which the plant grew will gradually begin to dry out, and with it the rest of the flower. When the ground is completely dry, it's time to remove the rest of the stem. The remains of the plant are simply twisted, slowly turning in a circle, and thrown away. The tuber of the plant remained in the flower pot, now you need to be able to save it. To do this, the pot is covered with a thick cloth and cleaned in a cool place. The flower must be constantly monitored, namely, approximately once a month until spring, carry out “modest” watering. Abundant watering contributes to the intensity of growth of gloxinia, and it can give the first shoots long before spring.
If this happened, and you are sure that the plant itself is strong and completely healthy, then they can be broken off. With the advent of spring, the tubers are freed from the old earth, placed in new soil. Carry out abundant watering, and soon your favorite plant will give new shoots. If the plant is young (up to about two years old) or diseased, then it is weak. It is better not to send such gloxinia for a rest period, continuing the usual care. Having removed the flower in the cold, it must be remembered that the dormant period can end much earlier (until spring) and then the plant will begin to grow. That is why it is important not to miss the awakening and start caring for the flower, as before!

ok.ru

Blooming gloxinia

From the article Gloxinia - growing and care at home, we already know that gloxinia usually wakes up at the end of February (plus or minus 2 weeks). Be sure to transplant it into a new healthy nutrient soil! Best of all, buy a flower potting mix for violets or begonias. In a warm, bright room with high humidity and not too high a temperature of 22 - 24 ° C, your beauty will quickly grow several pairs of large juicy dark green leaves. To prevent the shoots from stretching, during this period you need good lighting with a fitolamp or fluorescent lamp. Then you will see numerous buds on it.


The better you looked after your favorite flower in the spring, the more buds it will have. It happens that up to 20 buds are laid on room gloxinia at the same time, regardless of the variety.

Sometimes, with good care and comfortable maintenance during the dormant period, the plant may wake up earlier - in early February. Then in March it can bloom and please with its flowering several times a season.

Usually the period of rapid flowering occurs in May - June. During active flowering, gloxinia needs special home conditions. Protect your pet from direct sunlight. Try to observe the temperature regime during flowering - no more than 22 gr. Celsius. Maintain high humidity in the room, 60 - 80% with the help of wet cleaning, spraying the surrounding air (but not the flower itself - it does not like that!). Place a container of water next to the flowering pot. Evaporating, it will increase the humidity in the room.

Remove faded pedicel buds immediately so that they do not delay the emergence of new buds. If you decide to ventilate the room, take care to remove gloxinia from the draft - she really does not like drafts and any sudden changes in temperature. If in your climatic zone there is a short day in summer, use phyto lamps or fluorescent lamps to illuminate flowering plants up to 12 - 14 hours a day.


Sometimes gloxinia blooms all summer. The first rosettes will not have time to bloom, and new ones begin to grow in the axils of the lower leaves. Just remove the faded parts along with the stem, and new bushes will straighten their leaves to replace the faded ones. Preparation for re-blooming is not needed, apparently, you are comfortable with gloxinia, and it pleases you with its constant flowering. Do not forget that it is better to cut off the pedicels of faded buds in time so as not to retard the growth of new ones.

Gloxinia bloomed in summer

If gloxinia has faded in summer, its upper leaves, along with the stem, must be carefully cut with a clean tool. A pair of lower leaves is left on a short stem. The plant is fed with fertilizers for growth, such as Epin and Zircon, moderately watered. Very soon stepchildren will begin to grow in the axils of the remaining leaves. Of these, 2 - 3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are cut out.

Feed gloxinia with complex fertilizer. After a month, new rosettes of leaves are formed and new buds will appear. The second bloom may be more calm.

Cut stepchildren can be used to propagate gloxinia stepchildren.

Gloxinia care after flowering

Gloxinia has faded completely. This usually happens in late summer - early autumn. What is the care for gloxinia after flowering?

  1. It is necessary to feed the gloxinia for the last time with a fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen, for example, potassium monophosphate, and then stop feeding the plant until it wakes up in the spring, sharply reduce its watering and wait until all the leaves turn yellow and dry.
  2. It is important to wait for the process of dying off the ground part of the plant to end spontaneously. At this time, the tuber is preparing for a dormant period and is gaining strength for a long rest. This period - going to bed, lasts until mid-October.
  3. Then you can cut off the entire aerial part of the plant, leaving a stump 1–2 cm high above the tuber.
  4. It is necessary to water the stump for a couple more - three weeks, but no longer feed. It is necessary to keep gloxinia until spring in a state of complete rest, only the flower tuber should be alive and healthy.

If you do everything right, next spring gloxinia will delight you with its lush flowering with renewed vigor.

flowersadvice.com

Gloxinia in the "language of flowers", which was introduced in the 18th century by Charles II, King of Sweden, means "love at first sight." Indeed, you can fall in love with this flower as soon as you see it. Gloxinia have large beautifully colored flowers in the form of bells. There may be many, more than twenty. Sometimes they bloom at the same time. Flower petals can be double or smooth, wavy and regular, vary in color - it depends on the plant variety.



This houseplant also has a second name - synningia hybrid. It comes from Brazil. Nevertheless, gloxinia is a more common name among flower growers. His plant received, perhaps, because of the flower, which has the shape of a bell, and this is how the word "Glocke" is translated from German.

Gloxinia: care and reproduction

For the full flowering of gloxinia, good lighting is required - bright diffused light. You can not expose it to the sun, it is fraught with burns and rapid withering of leaves and flowers. Gloxinia loves high humidity. However, due to the fact that her leaves are pubescent, it is impossible to spray the plant. It is necessary to use pallets with expanded clay, the device of fountains, the installation of humidifiers. The room needs to be ventilated more often.

Watering gloxinia also needs to be done correctly. Its tubers are sensitive to waterlogging. When the tuber woke up in February-March after a dormant period in which he plunged when the gloxinia had faded, it was watered little by little. During flowering, the plant requires frequent but careful watering. Water should be distributed over the entire surface of the earth in a pot, and it is even better to water the plant through a pan.


Gloxinia requires a constant increase in the nutritional value of the soil. A week after transplanting the plant into fresh soil, it is necessary to start weekly fertilizing with fertilizers: at first - nitrogen, during the period of bud formation and flowering - phosphorus. Organic fertilizing will also be useful.

Gloxinia propagates in various ways: leaf cuttings, tuber division, seeds, shoots, part of a leaf. The most common method is leaf cuttings. A good leaf is selected and lowered into the water. When he starts roots, the leaf is planted in the soil in a small pot. Care for him, as well as for an adult plant.

Gloxinia has faded: what to do?

Usually gloxinia "throws out" a few flowers in the early stage of its growth. It is recommended that after this first flowering, cut off the stem, leaving only 1-2 pairs of lower leaves. Very soon, they will begin to come out at the place of attachment of the stepson leaves, which will grow and produce more and more new flowers. During this period, the plant should be fed with nitrogen fertilizers, and when the buds appear, switch to phosphorus.

The second flowering ends closer to autumn. By this time, watering gloxinia is gradually reduced, fertilizing is reduced. The leaves of the plant right before our eyes begin to turn yellow and dry. So, gloxinia has faded: what to do?

Watering the plant stops completely. The stem is cut off. You can leave a stump about two centimeters high. When it is completely dry, it should be unscrewed and discarded. The pot, in which the gloxinia tuber remains in the ground, should be covered with a tray and put away in a cool dark place. But this does not mean that the flower should be forgotten for a long time. Yes, we sent him to rest when the gloxinia faded. What to do next? Do not forget that once a month it is necessary to check the pots with tubers. Dry soil should be slightly moistened with water. If new sprouts come out too early, they should be broken off, but only if you are sure that the tuber is mature, strong and will be able to produce re-sprouts in the spring.

Young plants that are not yet two years old should not be sent to rest, since their small tubers are unlikely to survive the winter. Let them continue to grow on a lighted rack all winter.

In the spring, when sprouts appear, the tubers of the plant are gently shaken out of the pots, cleaned of the old earth, and then planted in new soil. The plant is placed in a bright place so that it grows faster and gains strength for flowering.

By the way, the dormant period of gloxinia does not have to last all winter. The plant may be enough for two or three weeks to accumulate new forces and start growing again. So, it is necessary to provide him with good care.

As you can see, there is nothing wrong with the fact that gloxinia has faded. What to do next - these tips will tell you.

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When and how long does it bloom?

The flowering period of gloxinia begins in mid-spring - early summer. If the plant fades in late summer - early autumn, then gloxinia will prepare for wintering. If gloxinia has faded earlier, you can achieve re-blooming.

You can find out why gloxinia does not bloom and how to make it release buds here.

Features of this period

When the number of leaves on gloxinia reaches three to four pairs, buds appear. Their number depends on the age of the plant, the mass of the tuber and the conditions of detention. The laying of buds occurs only with proper care. A striking feature of gloxinia is cap flowering. Up to a dozen buds can form on one peduncle.

The flowers are large, oblong, sometimes may have an irregular shape and be drooping. According to the shape of the inflorescences, gloxinia are distinguished by bells and shoes. The second name of the shoes is tidei. They are similar to bells, but more elongated at the base. Depending on the type of gloxinia, the flowers are simple and double. Simple petals are arranged in one row, terry ones have several rows of petals.

Coloring is characterized by diversity. There are white, pink, red, blue and purple flowers. There are not only varieties with monophonic buds, but also multi-color varieties. Some gloxinias have small specks on the petals, and a contrasting border around the edges may additionally be present.

What to do with wilted buds?

Faded buds must be immediately removed along with the pedicel.(read about why gloxinia buds turn black, dry up, rot and do not open, read here). Otherwise, they will prevent the emergence of new buds.

Plant care after flowering

Gloxinia is capable of re-blooming, especially if the first one was early. The second flowering is less abundant and lush, and the flowers are smaller. If after the first flowering the growth point is visible in the plant, in a month the gloxinia will give buds for the second time. If there is no growth point, you need to prune.

You can find out about the features of caring for the "tropican" gloxinia at home here.

When and how to prune?

The pruning procedure is carried out in May or June, after flowering has ended.. Cropping involves a few simple manipulations. Required:

  1. Cut off the aerial part: the stem and almost all the leaves, after leaving two to four lower leaves. Leave a shoot two centimeters long.
  2. After some time, lateral shoots will appear in the sinuses of gloxinia. It is necessary to leave one or two of the strongest, and pinch off the weak.
  3. Feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate the growth of green mass.
  4. A month later, buds begin to form on the shoots. During this period, the introduction of a phosphorus-potassium complex of fertilizers is required.

How to take care at home?

After the end of flowering, the stem dies off.. Gloxinia care during this period is carried out according to the following algorithm of actions:


The period after the end of flowering is a very important stage in the life of gloxinia.. The plant must prepare for wintering in time.

We talked about how to properly water and feed gloxinia in order to achieve long-term flowering in our material, and here you can read about how not to kill gloxinia when grown, and about the features of caring for it. If you take care of gloxinia correctly, next spring it will delight with renewed vigor with its lush flowers.

rusfermer.net

What to do after flowering gloxinia in the first period

The first period when gloxinia blooms usually occurs in May - June. If a young plant (1-2 years), then at the time of flowering it may have a few flowers. True, at the end of flowering, they, along with the leaves, should be cut using a clean tool. Leave only two pairs at the bottom. Often, novice flower growers feel sorry for the flower, and they do not cut it.

If this is not done, then you will not have to wait for another flowering this season. Therefore, as soon as the gloxinia has faded, it is necessary to cut off the upper part. It is necessary to feed the plant with fertilizers for growth (for example, epin and zircon) and water moderately. In this case, very soon, young shoots - stepchildren - will begin to grow in the axils of the leaves that remain. It is thanks to them that a new bush will form and, with proper care, in a month new rosettes of leaves, buds will appear, and after that it will bloom at all.

Thus, gloxinia is getting bigger and bigger, and the crown is getting more and more magnificent. During this period, the flower should be fed with complex fertilizers.

The second period of flowering and care after it

If the care of the plant at home is correct, then in July the second flowering period may begin at the bush. This period usually lasts until the end of October. However, what to do when gloxinia has faded, what to do next. And then you need to take care of her, adhering to the rules.

Namely:

  1. Dried buds should be removed as they fade. Then the flowers that are still left will bloom more intensively.
  2. The last top dressing should be carried out with a fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen, it can be potassium monophosphate. And it is recommended to stop feeding the flower until spring. Watering should be reduced sharply, and it is also important to reduce the air temperature and limit sunlight. And wait until all the leaves turn yellow and dry.
  3. It is important to wait until the ground part of the plant dies off spontaneously. During this period, until about mid-October, the tuber is gaining strength for a long rest.
    After the earth and the stem that remains are completely dry, it should be removed. Leave only a stump 1-2 cm high above the tuber.
  4. The remaining stump is watered for another two to three weeks, but without top dressing. Gloxinia should be at rest until spring. Only the flower tuber should remain alive and healthy.

Flower storage during dormancy

Further, the flower must be properly preserved until the next season.

To do this, there are several options for storing sleeping tubers:

  • Storage in the native flowerpot. The tuber remains in the ground. It should be placed in a dark and cool place. It can be a pantry, a veranda or an insulated balcony. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or a thick cloth. With this method of storage, it is imperative to take care of the tuber. Water once a month so that the tuber does not dry out. Maintain temperature +12. . .+15 °C .
  • Sand storage. The tubers must be carefully removed from the soil, cleaned from the ground, placed in sand, which must first be moistened and placed in a special container. This container should be stored in a cool place. To do this, you can use a refrigerator or cellar. During storage, the tubers are inspected and moistened as needed.
  • Storage in a package. The best option is a bag with a zipper. The tubers are removed from the substrate, then treated with phytosporin or fundozol. Within two days, the gloxinia tuber is dried and lowered into a bag, in which sand, sawdust, moss, vermiculite or sphagnum must first be poured into a quarter of the volume. Store the bag in a cool place, such as a refrigerator in the bottom container. Be sure to ensure that the temperature does not fall below +8 ° C.
    This method has several advantages: it does not need to be watered and it is possible to observe the condition of the tubers.

greeninhouse.com

What does gloxinia care include?

Care includes several aspects. Organization of temperature and light conditions, watering, feeding, transplanting - all this is individual for each flower. Growing gloxinia at home is not particularly time consuming or difficult. However, it has certain features that the grower needs to know about. Especially if you are just learning how to grow indoor plants.

Lighting Requirements

Many profusely flowering plants are photophilous. In this regard, gloxinia is no exception. She loves an abundance of light, and only under this condition gives a lot of buds. However, there is one condition: the light from the sun should not be direct. Keeping a pot with a plant in the summer on a window on the south side is by no means worth it. Diffused light is more suitable. This requires a light curtain that will not allow all the sun's rays to pass through, or a place where direct sunlight does not fall. Windows on the east or west side of the house are ideal. Also suitable rack with artificial lighting.

Water procedures

The plant is quite moisture-loving. However, simply pouring a lot of water is not the best way to care. Watering gloxinia is necessary, observing four rules.

  1. Watering is carried out only when the top layer of soil has become dry.
  2. In no case should water be poured onto the plant itself, but only along the edge of the pot.
  3. An even better option is to simply pour water into the pan. Through the holes in the bottom, it will moisten the soil. After a few hours, if there is still water left in the pan, it must be drained, as excess can be harmful.
  4. More active watering requires a plant during the flowering period.

In addition, additional hydration of the ground part is necessary to keep it healthy and juicy. Using a spray gun for this, as with some other plants, is not worth it. Droplets on the surface of the leaves can harm them. It is better to place a bowl of water next to the pot. You can use wet expanded clay in a container.

During flowering

The most beautiful flowering of gloxinia is capped, when the bells form a plentiful large hat. However, it doesn't always work out that way. The plant will bloom well only with the right lighting, good soil and timely top dressing. If all conditions are met, then from spring to autumn, gloxinia will delight the eye with its opening buds.

Flowering begins in April-May. Usually in April, when the buds are laid and flower stalks are formed, nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers are needed. And already in the period of rapid flowering - only phosphorus. However, you should not feed often, once or twice a month is enough.

Caring for gloxinia during flowering consists, in addition to top dressing, in proper watering - plentiful, but without excess. And also in good organization of lighting. Light day should last at least 14 hours.

Gloxinia blooms all summer. If, with proper care, for some reason, flowering has stopped, the plant can be stimulated. To do this, you need to follow five steps.

  1. Cut off the leaves, leaving only a couple of the lowest.
  2. After a few days, swollen buds will appear in the sinuses, and then sprouts.
  3. Choose one or two of the most powerful, pinch off the rest.
  4. Fertilize with nitrogen fertilizer to enhance growth.
  5. Wait for the buds to appear, feed with phosphorus to improve flowering.

During the dormant period

After flowering is completed, in late autumn, a dormant period begins, which lasts until the end of winter. When the foliage begins to turn yellow, reduce watering. After complete drying of the ground part, it is completely stopped. There are two ways to overwinter tubers - in a pot and with digging. The detailed preparation and storage procedure is described in the table below.

Table - Description of methods for wintering gloxinia tubers

Way Stages of wintering plants
Wintering in a pot - The remains of the plant, if they have not completely fallen off, remove;
- fill the pot with sand to the very top;
- cover with a suitable object, you can use a pallet;
- put in a plastic bag, but do not tie;
- put it in a cool room without access to light, the optimum temperature is 10 ° C;
- periodically check that the tuber does not wake up, and also control the humidity;
- if the soil is completely dry, you need to slightly moisten
Wintering with digging - At the end of the active period, harvest the tubers from the ground;
- slightly clean from the soil, decompose to dry;
- review for health;
- rotten and damaged to remove;
- put in a plastic bag, add moistened sawdust or soil with vermiculite, perlite;
- tie bags, store in the refrigerator in the warmest section (for vegetables);
- in January-February, take the tubers out of the refrigerator and place them in the light to wake up

If the tuber gets enough heat and moisture during the winter, it can sprout. Here you need to evaluate how strong the root is. If powerful, the sprout must be carefully removed. If it is weak and small, removing the sprout can destroy the plant. Then it is better to plant it in the ground and let it grow.

Features of landing and transplantation

After hibernation or the acquisition of tubers, they must be planted in the ground. Here, too, there are a number of rules. The main ones concern the choice of pot and soil preparation.

Choice of soil and capacity

It is better to choose ready-made soil. The most appropriate marking is "For violets". However, you need to bring it as close as possible to the needs of gloxinia. Therefore, you will need a little baking powder - a handful per liter of soil. Vermiculite, perlite or sphagnum can act as a baking powder. You can also make your own potting mix. It must include several components.

  • Earth (three parts). This is the base of the soil. It is desirable to take it from under any street trees, except for oak.
  • Sand (two parts). Promotes better penetration of moisture, prevents caking.
  • Peat (three parts). Makes the mixture more loose, convenient for the plant to receive nutrients and moisture.
  • Humus or rotted manure (100 g per 2-3 liters of the mixture). Will serve as a fertilizer. You can not make this component, but then a week after planting, you need to start feeding. According to reviews, it is best to take fertilizers for flowering plants.

"Moving" to a new pot

In January-February, new buds appear on the tubers. If this does not happen, the plant should be placed in a warm, lit room. Even if the plant overwintered in a pot, and not in a bag, it needs to be transplanted with the start of the next season. New soil is needed and, possibly, a new container if the old one has become small. Gloxinia needs to be transplanted in seven stages.

  1. Wait for the first shoots to appear. Then remove the tuber from the ground or a bag of sawdust, shake off the remnants of the soil, remove the old root shoots. Wash under running water.
  2. Cut out rotten, dried-up places. A sharp knife is used. Slices should be sprinkled with coal dust. If most of the root has deteriorated, it is better to throw it away.
  3. Prepare a pink solution of potassium permanganate. The water must be warm. Put the tubers there for half an hour.
  4. Place planting material in the ground. Sprinkle lightly with earth, cover with foil. The soil mixture in the pot should be about two-thirds of the volume.
  5. Remove film daily. For about an hour. This is important for ventilation.
  6. Remove film completely. When two good strong leaves appear. Top up the earth so that the tuber is well covered.
  7. Water sparingly and carefully. Avoid getting water on the leaves and tuber.

All of the above must be taken into account for those who do not know how to care for gloxinia after purchase. If the plant was acquired during the dormant period, but before the onset of spring, you need to “wake it up” and plant it. If a blooming gloxinia is bought, then it should be looked after according to all the rules until autumn. It is not necessary to transplant a flowering plant.

Reproduction methods

Gloxinia is also good because it can be propagated in several ways: leaves, cuttings, tuber parts, seeds. The methods are unequal in terms of labor intensity and effectiveness, but they make it possible to choose the most convenient option.

  1. New leaf plant. It is believed that it is easiest to propagate gloxinia with a leaf. Choose a strong leaf with a stem. Carefully cut at the root. Put in water for about a week or immediately planted in moist soil. Roots will begin to appear from the bottom of the stem. In both cases, the new plant is covered with a film when planting in the ground, the container is placed in a warm, lit room. New outlets may not appear soon - in about a month.
  2. With the help of a stem cutting. The upper part of the stem of the plant is needed. About 3 cm it will be immersed in the soil, preferably with several leaves. Taking into account these requirements, the cuttings are cut. Planting material is placed in moist soil. If the top is cut off from a powerful plant, then a medium-sized pot is needed, about 10 cm in diameter. After planting, the sprout is covered with a bag, it is removed after about a month. All this time, you must not forget about moisturizing and ventilation.
  3. Reproduction by seeds. Growing gloxinia from seeds is not easy. Usually the method is used when they want to get a new variety. To do this, pollinate flowers from different plants, wait for the appearance of a seed box. As soon as it starts to burst, cut off the box, dry it in a small container. At the end of winter prepare the soil. Seeds are mixed with sand or scattered on the surface. Cover with film. Moisturize with a spray bottle. Sufficient heat and light is needed. Sprouts appear in two to four weeks. A month later, the plants dive, seated at a distance of 1-2 cm. After another month and a half, the seedlings are seated in separate pots.
  4. Tuber division. Use it when there is no other option. For a plant, this is quite traumatic, a flower can hurt and take root for a long time. The division is carried out when there are sprouts of at least 2 cm. It is necessary that at least one sprout remains on each part. Cut the tuber with a sharp disinfected knife. Sections are sprinkled with coal dust. Place the parts of the tubers in moist soil. There should not be an excess of moisture so that the plant does not rot.

Reasons why there are no flowers

It's a shame when the expectations of a beautiful abundant flowering are not justified. There may be various reasons for this. Usually gloxinia does not bloom due to five care mistakes.

  1. Wrong care. Too cold or lack of moisture in the soil and air. With a lack of light, flowering may also be absent.
  2. old plant. If the tuber is many years old, you need to water it more abundantly.
  3. Soil infestation by pests. The soil needs to be replaced.
  4. Draft. Or low temperature. The flower reacts to this not only by the absence of bells, but also by twisting the leaves.
  5. Inappropriate capacity. Too large as well as a deep pot can require a lot of strength from gloxinia to grow. They are not left to bloom.

Growing mistakes

In addition to the lack of flowering, other problems may occur when growing gloxinia. Let's take a look at five of the most common.

  1. The buds dry up during the flowering period. The reason is lack of moisture. For the same reason, plants dry leaves. It is necessary to put wide cups, bowls of water next to the flower pot, often spray from the spray bottle next to the gloxinia.
  2. The buds wither and blacken, the flowers do not bloom. The reason may be the abundance of buds. The plant simply does not have enough strength, and it sheds flowers. It is necessary to feed it with a complex composition with the presence of phosphorus and potassium. The redness of the leaves also indicates the lack of these elements.
  3. The leaves lose color, become faded. This is a lack of magnesium. You need to use fertilizer with this element.
  4. The leaves turn yellow. The reason may be excessive watering, as well as the need for nitrogen. Appropriate means must be used.
  5. Brown spots appear on the leaves. Most likely, this is the influence of a draft or cold water. It is necessary to rearrange the plant, water only with warm water.

Diseases and pests

With high humidity, abundant watering and non-compliance with the rules of care, various diseases can develop in a flower. At the slightest suspicion, the plant should be examined, checked for the presence of diseases. Here are the three main symptoms that gloxinia needs treatment.

Growing gloxinia at home has many secrets and subtleties. However, the basic rules are simple. They consist in creating optimal conditions for this plant. Do not forget that initially the flower is an inhabitant of the tropics. He needs abundant, but not excessive humidity, enough heat and light, the correct organization of the dormant period. Under these conditions, the plant will bloom for many seasons.

Gloxinia in the language of flowers means "love at first sight." The value is very appropriate, since there are few houseplants that bloom so luxuriantly and profusely. Gloxinia buds are shaped like bells that bloom simultaneously in up to twenty pieces.

Lighting

The plant is quite photophilous, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Under their influence, gloxinia leaves can get burned, quickly fade and fade. Therefore, it is necessary to regulate the living conditions of this flower. In winter and in the cold season, flowerpots with a plant can be placed on the southern windowsill, in hot summer it is better to transfer them to the east or west. The flower should receive light illumination for 12-14 hours a day, if this does not happen, then all the power goes into the greens, and not into the buds. In order to bloom beautifully and magnificently, gloxinia needs to organize a sufficient amount of light.

Plant tubers should be planted in loose and well-ventilated soil, which consists of peat, sand and leaves. The flowerpot can be clay or plastic, its shape should be wide and shallow. A layer of drainage is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot.

The best time for landing is February-March. Just at this time, the tubers begin to grow. Before planting, the tubers are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and after planting they are covered with a layer of soil 1 cm thick.

Gloxinia can be placed on a well-lit window. It should be watered with soft water, avoiding the drying of the soil. Water should not fall on the leaves of the plant.

Fertilizer plays an important role in caring for gloxinia, but not in the first 1.5-2 months after planting. Only after a couple of months, organic fertilizers are applied alternately with mineral ones. Before flowering, fertilizers with ammonium nitrate and potassium nitrate are suitable, during flowering - superphosphates and phosphate nitrate.

After flowering

Many flower growers often wonder: what to do if gloxinia has faded? Most are confused by the fact that this process is similar to the complete death of a flower. But do not sound the alarm. This state means the onset of a period of rest. At this time, you need to reduce the intensity of watering. After the leaves dry up, watering should almost completely stop. Now the main thing is to take care of the safety of the tubers.

Usually the dormant period of gloxinia lasts 3-4 months. There are two ways to store tubers at this time. The first - the plant remains to winter in a flowerpot. It is placed in temperature conditions of 10-15 degrees and occasionally moisten the soil, preventing it from completely drying out. The second way is to dig up the tubers from the flowerpot. They are placed in sand and moistened. Tubers should be stored in a cool place, it can be the lower shelves or the door of the refrigerator. Periodically it is worth examining them and, in case of drying, moisten. In February-March, the tubers are planted in a flowerpot and grow again.

By performing such simple actions, you can achieve long-term flowering of gloxinia at minimal cost to care for it. In gratitude, the plant will give numerous beautiful buds.

Bright multi-colored flowers, lush greenery - gloxinia amazes with its beauty and splendor. The name of this indoor flower was given in honor of Benjamin Gloksin, an Alsatian botanist and doctor. The flower has another name - synningia. The plant received this name in honor of Wilhelm Sinning, a university gardener in Boston, who devoted many years to the hybridization and selection of this flower.

The plant has a peculiar character and requires a special approach. Novice flower growers are interested in the question: gloxinia has faded, what to do next? Consider all periods of the life cycle of a tropical flower, define the main stages of caring for a wayward plant.

Types of gloxinia

Gloxinia is a tuberous perennial with fleshy leaves on short stems. Gloxinia flowers and leaves are velvety, bright juicy color. The flowers are bell-shaped (sometimes with a frill), large in size - 7 cm in diameter and 5 cm in length. In nature, there are 25 varieties of Gloxinia, however, breeding work was carried out with only two representatives of the species - beautiful gloxinia (Gloxinia speciosa) and royal gloxinia (Gloxinia regina).

The inflorescences of the plant come in several tones:

  • white;
  • red;
  • pink;
  • speckled;
  • purple;
  • bicolor.

The royal species of gloxinia is distinguished by a high (up to ten centimeters) stem, lowered by a wide-oval shape of leaves with veins. The back of the leaves has a purple with red tone. Drooping inflorescences have a purple tone of a dark shade, elongated peduncles, a pronounced bell shape.

Gloxinia beautiful is distinguished by a variety of shapes and shades of flowers, some of which can be bicolor. Flowers with a snow-white rim around the edges look very beautiful. Among this species there are terry flowers.

Features and originality of the life cycle

Indoor flower Gloxinia is a light-loving plant, but categorically does not take out the directed rays of the sun. In summer, the flower pot must be moved from the south to the east or west. If the plant is not provided with full lighting, Gloxinia will stop blooming and all will go into the growth of leaves and stems.

The life cycle of a plant is divided into several stages:

  • winter rest;
  • growth and development;
  • active flowering.

Gloxinia carry out its life cycle with some features:

  • completely dies off after flowering;
  • needs top dressing according to the periods of flowering and dormancy;
  • requires a spacious landing capacity;
  • needs light 14 hours a day.

Gloxinia is a wayward plant that does not tolerate directional sunlight, however, it needs constant lighting. You need to take care of gloxinia very carefully, trying to provide her with comfortable living conditions. In this case, the flower will delight you with constant flowering with short rest periods.

Gloxinia is afraid of drafts, so the ventilation of the room must be carried out very carefully. It is advisable to take the pots out of the room that needs to be filled with fresh air. As well as Gloxinia cannot tolerate dry air therefore, to ensure high humidity, containers with water are placed near the plant. The originality of the flower lies in the contradiction: gloxinia loves moisture, but does not tolerate water on the leaves.


The temperature regime that this plant requires is also different. During flowering, Gloxinia loves warmth, and during dormant periods, it needs cool air (not higher than +15 degrees). Gloxinia leaves immediately react to a change in the temperature regime: when overheated, they stretch out, and when hypothermia, they droop.

rest period

Around the end of October, Gloxinia fades and enters dormancy. However, by this period of the life cycle, the plant begins to be prepared from August: they are watered less often and stop fertilizing. Watering the plant also has its own characteristics: the water must be filtered, a couple of degrees above room temperature.

Caring for gloxinia after flowering is a whole ritual: the plant must be prepared in advance for the winter, namely, in a timely manner to reduce watering and top dressing. Flowers and leaves should be cut off as they dry.

Where to store the plant in winter? There are two storage options. It is necessary to care for the tuber as follows.

Storage in the first way:

  • the tubers are cleaned from the ground, dried and placed in a plastic bag filled with moss and sawdust;
  • store tubers either in the vegetable section of the refrigerator;
  • equal parts of the substrate and vermiculite are added to the bag and tied.

However, this method is only suitable for adult gloxinia. A young plant is stored in a pot in winter, moderately moistening the soil.

Storage in the second way:

  • after the end of flowering (May / June), the stem and leaves must be cut off, keeping 3-4 leaves in the lower part;
  • then gloxinia is placed in a cool room for the winter and kept until the end of February, watering once or twice a month.

Where can you put gloxinia for the winter? Usually they choose either an insulated loggia or a place under the bathroom. How to care for young gloxinia, do I need to cut the leaves? The young plant has not yet formed tubers, so it needs a different care.

The small gloxinia that appeared from the seeds is not removed for wintering, it is provided with comfortable conditions for development:

  • create a long daylight hours with the help of backlighting;
  • provide a stable temperature regime - 20-22 degrees;
  • Water moderately, keeping the leaves from getting water.

During the winter, gloxinia will increase in size tuber and be ready to bloom by summer.

What to do after winter?

How to care for an adult plant after a dormant period?

  • in the spring, the tubers are washed with a weak manganese solution for disinfection;
  • tubers are planted in well loosened fertilized soil of the following composition: 1 part of leaves, 1 part of peat, 1/2 part of sand;
  • the soil mixture should cover the tubers with a thin layer of 1 cm;
  • a pot of gloxinia is placed in a well-lit place, inaccessible to the directed rays of the sun;
  • watering is done with warm water, trying not to get on the leaves;
  • stepchildren that have appeared are removed, leaving 2–3 of the strongest;
  • feed the flower with fertilizers to activate growth 2 months after the appearance of the leaves;
  • when buds appear, give top dressing to activate flowering;
  • top dressing is given once every ten days.

A pot for a plant is chosen spacious, turf is poured to the bottom, then soil is added. The prepared gloxinia tuber is placed in a pot and provides comfort for growth. Proper care of the plant, compliance with the water and temperature regime, high-quality fertilizers will create full-fledged conditions for the lush flowering of a tropical beauty.

- this is an unusually delicate and beautiful flower, seeing which there is a desire to have it at home. Refers to ornamental indoor plants with beautiful flowers in the form of bells. One bush can form up to twenty bells at the same time. The flowers themselves, of various colors, depending on the variety of gloxinia, can be smooth, double, wavy.

The indoor flower loves light, while being afraid of direct sunlight. The leaves may get burned, and the bells will wither.

Therefore, at home, gloxinia is placed in accordance with these recommendations. The place where flowerpots will be placed should be well lit with diffused light. For optimal growth and bud formation, at least twelve to fourteen hours of daylight is needed. If the plant does not receive the necessary lighting, then the buds will not form. Therefore, with the onset of spring, when daylight hours are not long enough, artificial lighting is used. If you properly care for gloxinia at home, then it will delight with abundant and long flowering.

Care after flowering

When gloxinia bloomed for the first time in a season, it usually happens in May-June, if the plant is young (1-2 years old), then there may be few flowers, they all need to be cut off along with the leaves, leaving only the bottom two pairs. It is necessary to do this, it happens that novice flower growers feel sorry for the plant and do not cut it, then you can not hope for flowering this season. Therefore, when gloxinia has faded. Without any regret, we cut off the upper part, and in a few days young stepson shoots will appear from the remaining parts of the cut leaves. It is they who will develop and form a new full-fledged bush, which, if properly cared for, will form buds and bloom again in a month. Now gloxinia is more than when you need help. At home, it is divided into two stages:

  • the introduction of nitrogen-containing substances during the formation of the crown;
  • fertilizer with phosphorus top dressing when the first buds appear.

If everything is done correctly, then at home around July, the gloxinia begins the second flowering period and lasts until the end of October. All this time, the plant must be properly looked after: watered, fertilized every two weeks.

But with the onset of autumn, reduce the frequency of watering and stop feeding. Gradually, the flower needs to be prepared for winter rest. When gloxinia stopped flowering and the leaves gradually began to turn yellow and die, you need to stop watering, and after a week completely cut off the surface part of the bush, leaving literally two centimeters of the main stem. You have to leave the flower alone and just observe. When the earth is completely dry, the remaining stem dries up, it is also removed. And nothing remains of the once flowering plant, except for the tuber.

Storage of gloxinia during rest

If the tuber will spend the winter in its usual place - a flower pot, then after the last dried part of the stem is cut off, the soil in the pot should be lightly watered, and the pot itself should be covered with a thick cloth and cleaned in a cool place (under the bathroom, cellar, etc.). e). Periodically, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the tuber and, as necessary, lightly water it no more than once a month.

When stored in wet sand, the tubers should first be carefully removed from the soil and cleaned from the ground, then they are placed in pre-moistened sand, which is in a special container. The container with the tubers is stored in a cool place, you can use the refrigerator for this and place the container with the tubers in the vegetable boxes, or you can take them to the cellar. The entire period of storage of tubers must be looked after. They are inspected and moistened as necessary.

Awakening gloxinia after a period of rest. Landing in the ground

The optimal time when the tubers come to life and the first buds appear on them is the end of February or the beginning of March. But at home, when either the temperature was too warm or abundant watering, gloxinia can wake up earlier and sprout. What to do in this case? There are two exits:

  1. First, when the tuber is five or more centimeters in size, the sprouts can be broken off and thus extend the dormant period.
  2. The second, they use it for young plants, plant a tuber with sprouts in a pot with new soil and begin full care for it in accordance with all the rules.

And so, after the awakening of the tubers, they must be planted in the ground, which is prepared at home as follows. You need to take in equal quantities the earth, last year's leaves, peat and some sand. The soil prepared in this way is soft and airy, which means it passes air and moisture well, which is simply necessary for gloxinia. Before planting tubers in a pot, it is imperative to make holes in it to drain water and lay a drainage layer. The tubers themselves must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Gloxinia are planted in the soil to a depth of no more than a centimeter. After planting, the soil is watered, and the pot is covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, well-lit place. Every day you need to do airing and, if necessary, moisten the soil. When the first leaves germinate, the coating is removed completely. And the care continues. Water young sprouts only with warm and soft water. At home, it is defended during the day, and then carefully, so as not to flood the leaves and roots, moisten the soil. It is not worth excessively moistening the soil, this can lead to the formation of rot on the tubers and the death of the plant.

For the correct formation of gloxinia after a dormant period, it needs a certain amount of nutrients that it can receive from the soil fertilized with special preparations.

At home, fertilizer must be applied correctly. The first top dressing is carried out no earlier than one and a half months after planting the tubers in the ground. For this, dry forms of mineral and organic fertilizers are used, which are applied directly to moist soil in a pot, in turn. Fertilizers must be applied very carefully so that they do not fall on the tuber and stems with leaves, along the very edge of the pot, not earlier than an hour after watering.

Top dressing is carried out once every ten days. You can use complex fertilizer for ornamental and flowering plants. Without additional support, in the form of minerals and organics, it is unlikely that it will be possible to grow a full-fledged flower with beautiful greenery and achieve abundant and long flowering. But an excessive passion for top dressing is fraught with negative consequences for the flower.

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