The third hand is an assistant with your own hands. Third hand DIY helper Necessary materials and tools

In modern repair, competent floor design is very important. Now, building materials have a number of advantages, they allow you to make floor coverings that will be reliable, functional, original, attractive and interesting in style. We are talking about 3D floors. How to competently make 3D self-leveling floors with your own hands, to carry out the process of their installation, we will tell in this material.

Technology features

Let's start learning how to make self-leveling floors in 3d with the features of this technology. To create 3d floors with your own hands, you will need to understand the technology for making such coatings. This technique is very popular because the floors:

  • original and attractive;
  • give a field for the flight of fancy;
  • not afraid of mechanical influences;
  • have a long service life;
  • do not dust;
  • these are hygienic coatings;
  • floors can be mounted on any base.

This technology of self-leveling 3d floor looks very impressive both in country houses and in ordinary apartments or offices. Filled floors 3D can have a variety of patterns, so you can just fantasize endlessly. For example, in the room of your kids, the heroes of your favorite cartoons can “find a home”. Well, for the living room, images of glades or pavements of large cities are suitable. Fancy ornaments are appropriate in the room where you sleep, and company logos or brand names will look great in offices. And there are no restrictions here - you can choose the picture for the 3d floor that you like.

3D floors differ from the simplest linoleums and laminates in that the latter are rather limited in drawings. With such coatings - you can not dream up. This cannot be said about self-leveling floors - here you can choose images for coating for an infinitely long time.

In addition, these floors are very easy to care for, they do not have seams, cracks or gaps where dirt usually accumulates. Coatings are not afraid of heavy loads: the floor will be “at least something” if you put a heavy cabinet on it or put a piano. And finally, let's cite the fact that the service life of the floors reaches 50 years: they will look equally beautiful both at the beginning of use and at “senile age”.

Making a decorative floor

How to make 3D floors with your own hands? To carry out the work yourself, you will have to divide the process into stages:

  • it is necessary to prepare the surface;
  • apply the base;
  • paste the image;
  • pour a transparent polymer;
  • apply a final anti-shock coating.

This execution technique helps to create 3D effects, and their “depth” will depend on how high you arrange the finish layer. By the way, drawings can be replaced by: dry leaves or flowers, crystals, pebbles or painted sand. Again, here you can experiment endlessly.

A lot of professional builders say that do-it-yourself 3d floors cannot be mounted. If you do not adhere to the 3D technology, the effect will not work, and the service life of the coatings will also be reduced. But really nothing is impossible! If you follow the instructions exactly, you should be fine.

It's important to know

How to create floors in 3d with your own hands? 3D coatings are mounted using almost the same technique as conventional "liquid" floors, but there are nuances here. First of all, the secret of success lies in the most thorough preparation of the base, because 3D coatings have a small thickness.

Important! In the process of work, you will have to organize forced ventilation, since the floor materials are very poisonous, and an ordinary respirator will not save you.

Now about the temperature regime: the temperature during operation should be at least 10 degrees. So if your house is not heated in winter, you are unlikely to be able to "pour" 3d polymer floors. If we talk about the technology itself, then for this you will need the following materials:

  • Two-component polymer mixture (hardener and base, which are mixed before use);
  • Actually, the decorative elements themselves (this can be a drawing, photo, artificial or natural materials).

Surface preparation

Let's start with the preparation of the rough surface. You will need to remove the old flooring, remove the baseboards and clean up the deri.

Tip: If the room has high humidity, you need to equip the floor with waterproofing: it will help extend the life of the coating.

A concrete screed must be made on the waterproofing layer. Also, the floors can be leveled with cement-sand mixtures, and when the composition dries, just grind it with a grinder or grinder with diamond discs.

If there are irregularities on the surface of the base for coating, they can be removed with a chisel or perforator. Various defects: chips or cracks must be “sealed” with cement mortar. When you achieve the ideal smoothness of the base for exclusive 3d floors, simply remove the accumulated debris with a vacuum cleaner. It is also necessary to remove oil spots, otherwise the floor may not “grip” well enough. By the way, the floors do not really “like” moisture, for this reason, your screed will need to dry out (about 30 days). Humidity in the room for subsequent work should not be more than 50%.

This is followed by a thorough priming of the base, it will help to fill the smallest pores of the concrete base. The primer can be applied with small bristled rollers, spatulas or flat brushes. The primer should be done in 2 layers: first, let the first dry well, then apply the second.

We apply the polymer

How to pour 3d floors? In order to create 3d self-leveling floors with your own hands, you will need to follow our instructions to apply a polymer coating. When, after priming, 3 hours have passed, you can proceed to this task.

For decorative elements, the base polymer base will act as a background. For this reason, carefully select the colors and shades of the coating.

To apply the polymer to the screed, you will need to mix the coating components with a special mixer and add a solvent. Prepare the composition in small portions because it tends to harden quickly.

Then you should pour the composition onto the prepared base and level it with a special spiked roller. Such a tool is needed to remove bubbles from the thickness of the base. Wait a day for the polymer to "adhere".

Applying an image

Are you still worried about the question of how to make 3D floors yourself? Then let's continue: when the base dries, you can start drawing. You can draw an image using acrylic paints or just stick a ready-made picture.

The first option is the most effective, but at the same time it is quite an expensive pleasure, because light-resistant paints are expensive. Plus you have to pay an artist to paint on the floors. And savings will be inappropriate here, because the impression that the coating will produce will depend on the picture.

At the next stage, layers of protective varnishes are applied to the dried paints, which will protect the picture.

The second method is sticking the finished picture. To do this, with the help of computer graphics programs, one or another image should be processed and printed in a full-length printing house with a resolution of 1440 dpi. Printing should be done on a material called matte satin. The substrates can also be vinyl films and banner fabrics with thermal printing. The most expensive thing here is to print the image itself: 1kv. m of such a print costs about 100 "American rubles".

Vinyl film with a picture can simply be glued to the floors, removing bubbles from it. Pictures on the banner fabric should be glued using thin layers of finishing floors, applying the image to a damp base.

Filling the top layer of polymer

The process is generally identical to pouring the polymer base under the drawing. When you have calculated the required amount of polymer, it should be mixed using a drill with a mixing attachment. Then pour the mixture onto the floors and level it with a spiked roller: “roll” the tool until the composition thickens. It is possible to move on the floor that is not yet “strengthened” only as a last resort in special paint shoes.

Tip: To enhance the characteristics of the perversity of the floors, they can be covered with plastic films. The final coatings will harden in about 4 weeks.

The process is completed by applying a special varnish coating, which will protect the pattern from damage and give the floor the proper strength characteristics.

We will learn how to make 3D floors with our own hands, because the process of making a 3D floor practically does not differ in its technology from the manufacture of self-leveling floors.

Already, 3D floors have become commonplace, and many people make them in their apartments and houses not only for aesthetic beauty, but also to visually increase the space. A 3D floor is a floor covering that has no seams and consists of three main layers: a base layer, an image, and a finish layer. The image can be either drawn by a professional master or bought in a store.

Of course, in order to make a 3D floor in a room yourself, you need to have iron patience, a good amount of money, and two weeks of time. But the main place in all this will be occupied by your boundless imagination. If you agree to all of the above sacrifices, then I will tell you further: what tools and materials you will need.

Helpful information:

Tool

  • Concrete floor grinder.
  • Mixer or drill - necessarily from 800 watts of power.
  • Household vacuum cleaner.
  • Several spatulas from 20 to 80 centimeters.
  • Two rollers - needle and fur.

materials

  • Cement
  • PVA based solution. 1 liter of PVA per 10 liters of water.
  • Decorated material, 3D printed image on high quality vinyl films.
  • If you want to paint the floor by hand, you will need acrylic paints.
  • The compound is a ready-made mixture based on epoxy resin.

After you have acquired all the materials and tools, you need to carefully consider the stages of work and clearly visualize what you want to get in the end.

Preparing the base for creating a 3D floor

The floor covering must be removed to the concrete base. If your base is soil, then fill the screed. You can fill in such types as: wet screed, semi-dry screed. In no way, to create a 3D floor, a dry screed will not work for you.

Carefully remove all dust and accumulated debris from the concrete base. If there are oil or grease stains on the screed, they must be removed. We apply the primer at least twice. This is done so that there are no pores left in the concrete, even the smallest ones. For this purpose, use a fur roller, it will be easier to apply the primer evenly with it. Further, you can continue to work only after one hundred percent and complete drying of the primer. Drying lasts from 12 to 24 hours.

base layer


The base layer will be the screed. It must be perfect and free from cracks. If there are cracks in the screed, then. Otherwise, cracks can also spread to the 3D floor. The base or screed must be sanded with a grinder.


If you plan to use some small decor elements, such as sand, small pebbles, etc., when creating a 3D floor, be sure to decide on a color scheme. It is the polymer that will serve you in this case as a background.


The interesting thing is that you can continue drawing the 3D floor on the wall.

Applying an image for a 3D floor


The easiest way is to order an image of the required size, which will be printed on vinyl film or on a good banner fabric. When placing an order, check the print quality.

  • The image must not contain bubbles.
  • The dimensions of the picture should be slightly larger than the dimensions of your room, since cutting is always easier than building up, and extra seams will look ugly.


If you decide to apply a drawing with paints, then be sure to invite a professional artist. Paints must be polymer or acrylic. They are most suitable for creating a 3D floor. Varnish can only be applied after the paint has completely dried. Do not rush, otherwise, under the influence of liquid varnish, your drawing may turn out to be blurry and not clear.


If you have chosen the method of partially decorating the picture with real elements that have voids, you need to close them up with polymer clay or plaster. Before laying the decor, apply the first layer of polymer to the base and carefully roll it with a spiked roller. The roller will remove all available air from the resin mixture so that bubbles do not form. Immediately you need to form a picture while the polymer is still in a liquid state.

Be sure to close windows and doors during and after work to avoid getting dust or other small particles on the polymer. Within two days, we expect complete drying of the polymer. After pouring the second layer of polymer at least two millimeters. We take precautions against dust ingress and expect your future 3D floor to dry completely.

Filling the final layer


The finish layer is an important element when creating 3D floors. It is very thin - its thickness should be up to 1 millimeter. For the finishing layer, it is better to purchase a ready-made compound mixture, which is based on epoxy glue and resin. Do not cook a large amount of the mixture at once, as it thickens very quickly, and it will be impossible to work with it. Using a notched trowel, spread the clear paste evenly over the top of the design and begin to carefully roll the resin with a spiked roller.


As soon as you feel that the mixture has begun to thicken, you must immediately stop rolling. And we act like this until you cover the entire pattern or the entire floor area in the room with a transparent varnish. Keep top coat free from dust or debris. For your floor to completely dry, you need to wait about a week. During drying, do not allow direct sunlight to hit the floor.

Nuances


The hardest part of the whole job is to prevent bubbles from appearing in the final layer. They can form due to excessive moisture of the previous coating, or if you do not follow the dosage of the components when mixing the mixtures. Be sure to follow the instructions on the manufacturer's packaging.

There are several ways to check the moisture content of a coating, but I will describe one as it is the simplest. After the next layer has completely dried, cover the floor area with a 2x3x or 3x3 plastic film and leave it on the floor for a day. If, after a while, perspiration appears under the film, then the humidity is high enough, or it has not completely dried out yet. Be sure to check the new screed, as it is from it that a large percentage of moisture will come.

3D floors are an aesthetic decoration for every room in an apartment or house. They are environmentally friendly and very resistant to abrasion. So that all your efforts will be worth the money and effort you spent. That is why making a 3D floor is not only an interesting activity, but also fun for guests.

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Are you looking for fresh and unusual interior decoration ideas? Familiar pictures are good, but the soul is looking for something new. On the Internet, you can find more than one master class on creating volumetric paintings with your own hands from paper, fabric or leather. These are 3d canvases that are striking in their liveliness, which are exciting to create and pleasant to contemplate.

DIY paintings

A three-dimensional picture can be called a 3d sculpture in a frame, made from improvised materials. It can be anything in the full sense of the word: paper, dry flowers, polymer clay, leather, fabrics and other creative materials. From gypsum, for example, magnificent three-dimensional drawings are made right on the kitchen wall. Gypsum modeling is, of course, beautiful, but this article will focus on simpler techniques.

Everyone can make an original masterpiece of art with their own hands. Why don't you try your hand? The master class will help you learn the basic principles to start from the idea and start creating.

Master class "3d paper picture"

For the first pen test, take the simplest version of a three-dimensional picture - paper application.

A set of materials for work:

  • frame with deep sides;
  • stationery knife;
  • pencil;
  • colored cardboard with a bright print;
  • white watercolor paper or thin cardboard;
  • ruler, scissors;
  • PVA glue.

Instead of a frame, you can take a candy box.

Step-by-step description of a three-dimensional paper picture:

  • cut out a rectangle from a white sheet of paper under the selected frame;
  • hand draw or print a heart large enough to fit freely in the frame 9 times in three rows. The approximate size of a heart is 4x5 cm;
  • the heart needs to be cut out and circled with a simple pencil, putting it on the white paper prepared earlier. You should get 3 rows of three hearts or more (less) as you wish;
  • now the crucial step has come - carefully cut out the "wings" of the hearts with the help of a clerical knife. To do this, you need to make cuts along the contour of the hearts, without touching the lower and upper parts;
  • we bend the cut parts of the hearts up and to the center, making them voluminous;
  • The blank with hearts must be glued onto colored cardboard. It is desirable that it be a special scrap paper with a small pattern. It will be visible through the bent wings of the hearts;
  • the final step is to place the picture in a frame and fix it on the reverse side with a stapler or glue.

The presented master class is simple, but based on it, you can make your own 3d plot - fluttering butterflies, tiles, people and other interesting patterns.

Master class "multilayer 3d paper painting"

It is very easy to make an interesting paper picture using the layered technique - you need to find a drawing and print many copies. The finished product, hung on the wall, looks interesting from different angles - a real 3d picture.

A set of materials for work:

  • deep enough frame;
  • cardboard;
  • laminate substrate;
  • thick album sheets and printer;
  • glue for needlework;
  • acrylic paint;
  • acrylic lacquer;
  • scissors;

Step-by-step description of a multi-layer paper picture:

  • choose a beautiful and bright picture with a distinct image. It is desirable that it has a lot of details that will be convenient to cut. We format or select the image to fit the frame size. We print 10-12 copies on thick paper;
  • Depending on what printer you have, we determine the need for pictures to be varnished. So, images printed on an inkjet printer need to be sprinkled and varnished, otherwise the colors will flow. Laser images can be left like this;
  • the first image is simply glued onto cardboard cut to the size of the frame plus mounting gaps;
  • all other images are cut out, but in a special way. For example, if you are creating a flower, then let several whole flowers with a stem and leaves be cut out, a couple of layers more leaves, and even more inflorescence itself. It sounds complicated, but it will become clear along the way;
  • now we are preparing the basis for the parts from a thin substrate for the laminate, which looks like a thin layer of polyethylene foam. The cut out substrate should be slightly smaller than the details so that it is not visible in the finished product on the wall;
  • we glue the parts on the substrate, but not all, but selectively - only those layers that should protrude forward. In some small parts, the substrate may not be needed;
  • the prepared parts are placed on the base in a frame for glue. First, we place large pictures with many details, and then individual details, which should be more voluminous;
  • the side parts should not remain white, otherwise they will give out the presence of a substrate - they need to be painted over to match the image;
  • We cover the picture with acrylic varnish in several layers. Each layer is applied after the previous one has dried;

Now you will also have a three-dimensional picture with your own hands - now you can place it on the wall in this form or add glass. Such canvases can be made from fabric, then you will get a picture with a beautiful terry surface.

Master class "3d leather painting"

A set of materials for work:

  • frame;
  • the basis of the picture is made of leather, suede or fabric;
  • pieces of leather of any color;
  • acrylic paints;
  • rectangular sheet of chipboard or plywood;
  • furniture stapler;
  • craft glue or superglue;
  • scissors;
  • paper (for sketches);
  • soap or chalk (for contours on the skin).

The first question that arises about the creation of such a work is where to get the skin? Firstly, it must be natural, and therefore it is not cheap. But you will certainly have a jacket, bag, gloves and other used genuine leather products. Feel free to shred them - you will get a lot of fun and be able to make a gorgeous picture.

Step-by-step description of creating a painting "bouquet of leather":

  • on paper, make sketches of leaves and petals and cut them out - these will be templates for work;
  • transfer the contours to the skin and cut out how many flowers with petals you want to have in the finished picture;
  • if the materials at hand did not contain colored skin of a shade suitable for the colors, then use acrylic paints. Color the petals with burgundy or pink flowers, and the leaves with green. You can choose paints of any colors you like;
  • to make the petals rounded and voluminous, you need to hold the skin over the candle flame - it will take on an interesting natural shape;
  • we collect buds from the petals, in the center you can place a ball of leather or fabric as the center of the flower;
  • we stretch the base of any fabric, suede, leather or other material onto a sheet of plywood and fasten it with staples from the wrong side. The fabric can be pulled tight or draped. The resulting base is inserted into the frame;
  • lay out ready-made flowers and leaves on the basis - evaluate their location by stepping aside;
  • complement the composition with leather curls, natural materials - shells, dry flowers, etc.;
  • now you can glue all the elements to the intended places using a glue gun or a tube of superglue.

We clean the finished picture from traces of needlework and hang it on the wall - that's the whole master class. Similar creations can be made from fabric - decorating the painted silhouettes of girls with dresses made of fabric and lace.

To repeat the master class and create three-dimensional paintings with your own hands, you do not need to have the ability to draw. But what you really need is perseverance and accuracy.

For beginners, you can advise paper techniques, and for more experienced craftsmen - magnificent 3d paintings made of leather, polymer clay or gypsum. Interesting pictures for the kitchen are framed vegetables and fruits made of clay or made of plaster.

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A modern additive printer is not a cheap pleasure. To become the owner of a high-tech “car”, you will have to pay several hundred, or even thousands of dollars. Many supporters of three-dimensional printing are wondering how to assemble a 3d printer with their own hands? If the device can reproduce parts of any shape and size, why not try to print exactly the same printer?

Self-reproduction as an alternative to commercial models

In fact, engineers have been struggling for years to make 3D printing technology available to the public.

For the first time, self-reproducing mechanisms were discussed in 2004. The project is called 3d printer reprap. Devices of this type can reproduce exact copies of their components.

The first was a printer called "Darwin". He managed to reproduce about 60% of his details for the child copy. He was replaced by Mendel, capable of working not only with plastic, but also with marble dust, talc and metal alloys.

Although the reprap principle has gained confidence among users of printing equipment and gained immense popularity among amateur engineers, it is not perfect.

The basic cost of a standard platform for creating clones of your own kind is 350 euros. A professional self-reproducing apparatus capable of printing its own electrical circuits costs 3,000 euros.

In both cases, the buyer will have to make a lot of efforts to make his copy work in full.

We assemble a 3d printer

First of all, you will have to fork out for parts and accessories that today cannot be completely manufactured on a conventional printer. A novice engineer will have to purchase, install and calibrate on his own:

  • – sensors for measuring the temperature of the extruder nozzle and heating table;
  • - stepper motors that drive the print head and build platform;
  • - stepper motor controller;
  • - end sensors for determining "zero";
  • - thermistors;
  • — extruder and work table heater.

The above spare parts are selected based on the dimensions of the device and the goals that are set for it. The total budget of a homemade device can easily equal the cost of an inexpensive FDM printer with average print quality.

Reprap printers - semi-finished products in the 3D world

In fact, assembling a 3d printer with your own hands is more difficult than it might seem at first glance. Unfortunately, reprap technology is far from perfect and is primarily aimed at people with an engineering background. For everyone else, there are kits that can be put together following the instructions and holding a screwdriver firmly in your hand.

For example, the Sedgwick v2.0 Kit DLP printer. The photopolymer apparatus is designed for printing acrylic models. There are two versions of the device to choose from: with a tank with a volume of 75x75x50mm and 75x75x120mm. The finished device is capable of printing with a minimum layer thickness of 100µm.

In turn, the Engineer kit (Prusa i3) allows you to assemble a printer for layer-by-layer fusing with ABS and PLA plastic with a layer thickness of 0.3-0.5 mm. The volume of the working chamber is 200x200x180mm.

Kits for self-assembly are constantly being improved. In 2015, the first printers of the PRotos v3 series by the German manufacturer German RepRap went on sale. The device, like other models of this type, is sold unassembled.

But the manufacturer took into account previous shortcomings and presented a kit that is much easier to assemble than ever before. The novelty is equipped with a ready-made platform for printing, aluminum reinforcing supports, giving it an additional margin of safety, a reel of branded cables with prepared connectors, as well as assembled boards.

If earlier it was almost impossible to independently assemble a correctly working printer, then thanks to the efforts of German engineers, each customer got the opportunity to assemble a device for three-dimensional printing equipped with two extruders with their own hands.

It is noteworthy that the engineers of the PRotos v3 company decided not to limit the capabilities of the printing press and trained it to work with all known types of plastic, such as ABS, PLA, PP, PS, PVA, smartABS, Laybrick, Bendlay and Laywood.

The cost of the kit is 999 euros. On the other hand, a factory-assembled printer sells for €1,559.

How to assemble a 3d printer yourself from improvised materials

Two candidates can compete for a place in the “cheapest do-it-yourself 3d printer” category. The EWaste model will cost no more than $60, provided you can find suitable parts borrowed from old electrical appliances.

You will need two CD/DVD drives, a floppy drive, a computer power supply, connectors, heat shrink tubing, and a NEMA 17 motor.

An alternative is to use plywood, nuts, cables, bolts and aluminum scrap. Attach it all to the stepper motor and heating cartridge with a soldering iron. You will find the detailed assembly process of the Egyptian ATOM 3D here.

By the way, in order to get your own printer, it is absolutely not necessary to skillfully wield a blowtorch. It is enough to disassemble several copiers. So, in Russia, a 3D printer appeared, assembled from recycled Xerox 4118 and Xerox M15 laser MFPs.

To turn the idea into reality, the engineer needed steel guides, three plastic bearings, several metal profiles, 4 motors, two of which support the microstep function. Additionally, the author of the project used a thermistor for the stove, 3 optical sensors and connecting wires.

Perhaps the finished unit does not shine with design frills, but it copes quite well with printing with the usual ABS plastic. The cost of a homemade product is unlikely to exceed $ 50, provided that the author of the idea had some components in stock.

However, with due skill, you can try to assemble something more perfect. Chinese robotics engineers at Makeblock have kindly offered their "recipe" for an inexpensive 3D printing machine.

The printer was assembled from improvised tools and mechanisms sold on the open market. The Chinese developers used the branded Makeblock frame with an i3 platform, which you can buy in the company's store.

The Arduino MEGA 2560+ RAMPS board is responsible for the electrical part. The device is controlled by a desktop computer with pre-installed special software Printrun (download).

Which option to choose is up to you. Self-reproducing printers are rapidly evolving and evolving. But such a kit is not much cheaper than a regular commercial model, as it is a complete platform for accelerated prototyping. The public stereotype that rep-rap is just budget toys has sunk into oblivion along with NASA statements.

It turns out that astronauts are planning to take several of these printers into space in the near future. As conceived by engineers, self-reproducing printers will help save usable space and payload capacity of the shuttle. It is planned that they will be used to build space bases on the Moon and Mars.

3D printers will use fine sand as ink.

Which option to choose is up to you. Self-reproducing printers are rapidly evolving and evolving. But such a kit is not much cheaper than a regular commercial model, as it is a complete platform for accelerated prototyping.

Rep-rap 3D printers can save a few tens or hundreds of dollars, but the finished sample will have to be adjusted by yourself, which may cause print quality to suffer. Homemade printers are an option for people with an engineering background and remarkable patience.

Postcards are a type of needlework that will please not only you, but also the person to whom you present your craft. If you first took up this business, the question arises of how to make a postcard with your own hands. In this article, we will give some lessons that will be useful.

Bouquet of flowers

This is a very interesting idea of ​​​​creating not an ordinary, but a 3D postcard.

The difference between such a postcard and a regular one is that when opened, the elements move or are outside the postcard.

So, first you need to cut out flowers from colored paper, you can choose any color. Fold these circles into a triangle and trim the edges to make an oval. One flower should have six petals.

Glue the petals of the resulting flowers. The gluing technique may seem complicated, but you just need to follow the instructions as shown in the photo below.

Continue gluing on the black dots.

Do not forget that you need to apply glue pointwise, otherwise the petals will stick together completely and the flowers will not open.

Cut out leaves from green paper and glue them too.

Now we take two sheets of cardboard or hard paper and glue both sides of the flowers to the base.

Everything, your craft is ready. Now you can decorate the postcard according to your taste and give it to the addressee.

This is how a master class on handmade postcards turned out, we hope it will come in handy for you.

cute baby elephant

Now we will make a voluminous postcard for the birthday of some of your cheerful acquaintances.

To get started, you will need scrapbooking paper, which is often used when working with homemade cards, felt-tip pens, multi-colored buttons, real thread and a piece of green paper.

On the base we glue the elephant cut out of cardboard, paint it in your favorite color. See the elephant stencil below.

Cooking weed. Take a green piece of paper and cut it with a fringe. Now glue under your feet and fluff the fringe with your fingers. Glue multi-colored buttons in the upper corner and stretch threads from them to the elephant's trunk. Looks like very cute balloons. Decorate the other upper corner with a cloud or sun and that's it, your craft is ready.

flow of hearts

If the time is approaching Valentine's Day, then this voluminous paper craft will come in handy. It will not take you much time, but it will look very impressive. So, we need colored paper, thick paper, scissors, and glue.

The main thing in this craft is the filling, it will consist of hearts that will straighten out when opened. You can make them yourself by drawing from the diagram, or you can simply print it and paint it.

It will look nice if you do not completely cut out the hearts, but leave the whole white sheet. When you stick it on the red base, the empty heart-shaped spaces will be filled with red.

Take two sheets of red cardboard and glue hearts on it. Glue two sides separately, as in the photo.

After the glued elements dry, connect the hearts in the incision area.

That's all. Your postcard is ready. On the front side, you can write a short confession or the name of the person to whom the message is intended. We would not advise decorating in any other way, because there is a risk that the work will turn out to be sloppy. It is better to endure the red and white style.

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