Wooden top with epoxy resin. How to make an epoxy resin table with your own hands: a master class and creative design options

Epoxy resin is a popular creative material. With its help, you can make jewelry with your own hands - earrings, pendants, other jewelry. Epoxy furniture will be no less beautiful: it goes well with wood, wood shavings and sawdust, cuts of stumps and twigs.

Products made of epoxy resin and wood will decorate any interior, besides, the price of such an exclusive is very high, and you can earn money on it.

Material Application

Resin uses are varied. It finds application in most major industries:

  • electronics;
  • aviation;
  • machine manufacturing;
  • equipment repair;
  • shipbuilding;
  • construction;
  • production of fiberglass;
  • pouring floors;
  • production of glue, putty, grout;
  • production of paints and varnishes.

You can work with epoxy at home. It is ideal for the manufacture and processing of furniture made of natural wood and its derivatives, slabs. With the help of pouring, you can make an original stool, chair or table, cabinet doors. Souvenirs, jewelry, watches, figurines, cutting boards and products for the kitchen, bathroom, vases, tambourines and other toys for children are also beautiful.

Different types and states of glue

On sale there are different brands of epoxy resin - domestic and imported. Most of them are suitable for making furniture. It is only important to decide whether colored or transparent resin is needed for decoration. Usually, in order to see beautiful cuts of wood and its fibers, they acquire transparent compositions. For example, high-quality resin YD-128 is colorless and transparent, like glass. Epoxy MG-Epox-Strong also has no complaints about transparency, even suitable for creating jewelry. By the way, such resins can be combined with colored ones - make bright blotches inside the bulk.

These materials are two-component adhesives. The liquid resin is stabilized by adding a hardener, which is included in the second bottle. It will not work to fill furniture parts with thick pastes in molds, so you should not buy them.

There are 5 basic resin states:

  • liquid - this is a material without a hardener or immediately after its introduction, it has excellent fluidity;
  • honey-like - resembles molasses, already slightly thickened resin, which is best used for layer-by-layer pouring of crafts;
  • thick - fluidity is sharply reduced, the mass does not pour well and is suitable only for gluing parts or putty;
  • rubbery - epoxy resembles rubber or hardened plasticine, sticky, but can change shape;
  • solid - fully cured resin.

Differences between resin and glue

In master classes for pouring wood products, you need to use epoxy resin, but not glue based on it. Main material differences:

  • the curing time of the adhesive cannot be changed, and the freezing rate of the resin can be increased or slowed down;
  • the glue turns yellow, the resin remains transparent;
  • the glue has low elasticity, while the resin is malleable, allowing you to carry out the work necessary for the master;
  • glue is used to join parts, it will not be possible to fill them with products, almost any figures can be made from resin.

Pros and cons of epoxy resin for wood

Previously, epoxy was used as an adhesive for various parts, it was almost never used in creativity. Later, floors were poured with this material, noting its low abrasion, high strength and durability. Now resins with dyes or in their pure form are widely used to create unique products for the home. The advantages of epoxy for wood are as follows:

  • the mass can be given any shape - it flows, fills the smallest pits, depressions and cracks;
  • the frozen product is easy to grind and polish, holes can be drilled in it, grooves can be sharpened;
  • epoxy of different colors is on sale, but even transparent resin can be given any shade by introducing a dye;
  • since the composition does not shrink, the furniture will retain its attractiveness for a long time.

The tool also has its downsides. So, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of resin and hardener, otherwise the mass can be irrevocably spoiled. The price of resin is high, especially for transparent brands. The cost of large products will be large. Another disadvantage is the toxicity of epoxy. During work, you will have to use a respirator, gloves, goggles, and ventilate the room well. After hardening, the composition is safe.

Features of working with epoxy

Wood is heterogeneous in structure, therefore air can accumulate inside its parts, around which a vacuum is formed. After a change in temperature, the material expands or contracts, therefore, until the moment of complete solidification, air bubbles often appear on the surface that have come out of the internal cavities of the wood.

To avoid defects, it is necessary to stabilize the temperature in the room for 2-3 hours after pouring the epoxy. It is advisable not to work outside or choose a time in the afternoon when the sun is not so hot. If you intend to perform a thick layer of epoxy, it is better to divide the work into 2 stages. The risk of bubbles in thin layers is lower.

Impregnation of wood with epoxy

For high-quality impregnation of wood with an epoxy composition, on the contrary, the base is heated. After expanding the pores of the wood, they will perfectly absorb the mass, which will also become very liquid upon contact with a hot surface. After the impregnated wood has hardened, it is covered on top with a finishing layer. When drying, you will again have to control the temperature so that air does not come to the surface.

Elimination of air bubbles

It happens that bubbles still appear on the top of the fill. It is not necessary to heat the product, this can cause the formation of new bubbles. It is better to use a thin needle, piercing the air "balloons". Another option for removing them is to spray the resin with alcohol from a spray bottle. Although in this case there is a risk of changing the color or degree of transparency of the mass. Large bubbles are removed after the resin has solidified. They are drilled, cleaned, degreased and poured again.

Resin use - design options

For combination with wood, transparent resins for optical castings are ideal. Through them, any designer “things” will be noticeable - crumbs, sawdust, metal elements. If it is decided to add color, it is better to buy it from the same brand so that there are no problems with mixing.

Colored masses are usually cloudy, and they are not used for the main fill. But it looks beautiful filling the pores of the tree with a colored composition, voids from knots, bark beetles. For example, a shelf or bar counter will be unique, in which the cracks are painted with resin with luminescent dyes. Then the furniture will glow on its own.

There are other interesting design tricks as well. So, when adding a drop of water to the resin, milk stains will be obtained. They also make beautiful blotches in colored epoxy with drops.

Cut furniture

Furniture resembling a piece of jewelry looks unusual - its details are cut. For example, a beautiful stump is enclosed in a transparent cube, ground, polished and given clear edges. The product can be used as a table, chair, and simply installed as an element of the interior.

Solid board table

To create a designer table, they use the method of coloring grooves and holes that you can do yourself. Any type of wood will do. You can take a single piece or make a countertop from glued strips. To prevent the colored resin from leaking out, the boards are covered with paper tape on the inside, which is removed after curing. The hardened resin is ground, then varnished.

Filling table

This method of creating furniture is more complex. Thick glass or plywood is used as a base for decor, which is shaped into a future table. Light decorative elements must be glued, because they can float. Next, they make a side that will hold the epoxy on the base. It is neatly nailed with furniture nails.

The substrate must be dry before pouring. Wood pores are treated with an epoxy primer. At one time, fill no more than 1 cm thick. Large pieces of wood, stones will have to be hidden in the resin several times, doing the work in layers. Each stage is carried out two days after the previous one. You can use the table only after 7 days, after the same period it is ground and polished if necessary. It is advisable to varnish the filling tables - this will reduce the risk of minor defects.

Shelves

To create luminous or ordinary shelves, boards of the right size are used. Areas affected by mold, fungus are removed using a hand tool. Next, the resin is mixed with the dye, choosing the desired color. On the reverse side, the board is sealed with adhesive tape, and the pores are filled with a coloring composition. After drying, a layer of transparent resin is applied. At the end of the work, the surface is varnished.

Table with map inside

Such a table is made in the same way, only a cut of a tree trunk with many cracks, divorces, branches is selected. Holes are drilled imitating a map of the world - seas, oceans. After that, the product is poured, coloring the resin in the desired tones.

Ice in the house

A bar counter or countertop can be made to look like a block of ice. Such plates are cast in molds, making "cracks" of colored resin inside. The use of such a product in the interior will be a unique design technique.

LED lamp made of wood and epoxy

From epoxy resin, you can even make your own nightlights and lamps. In such a device, a diode lamp is attached to the bottom of the frame; it also serves as a stand. The order of work is as follows:

  1. From pieces of chipboard, assemble a box 33x20 cm with strict observance of 90-degree angles, it will serve as a mold for pouring.
  2. Put the box on a flat base, tighten it with clamps, seal the cracks with sealant.
  3. Dilute the dark-colored resin, pour it in a thin layer.
  4. After curing, lay a piece of wood with the bark inside, decorate with decor (for example, dry moss).
  5. Pour transparent resin on top (thickness 3 cm).
  6. Let the product dry.
  7. Attach it to the lamp.

resin jewelry

For self-production of rings, key rings, pendants, earrings and other jewelry, you need to purchase suitable casting molds - silicone molds. You will also need a high quality transparent resin, decor - rhinestones, glitter, beads, sequins.

Dried flower decorations

To make such jewelry, you need to prepare the flowers in advance. Forget-me-not, veronica, heather, small roses or individual petals, buds look beautiful. Stencils of the desired shape are drawn on paper, laid out on a clean, film-covered surface. From above, the stencils are covered with multifors.

The finished diluted resin is applied directly to the multifora, carefully distributing according to the stencil, using a wooden stick until a height of 2-3 cm is reached. Then the mass is covered with a dome shape from above - this option is ideal for making earrings, pendants. A day later, the blanks are removed from the multifora, the dome is removed, and they are well polished. The work is repeated, only dried flowers are laid inside the workpiece. Both halves are then glued together.

Bracelets

To work, you will need special molds for bracelets, resin, a mixing container, a stick and any decor. The filler is laid out in a dry form, the resin is carefully poured (in a thin stream). Straighten the decor with a toothpick, pierce air bubbles. Allow the workpiece to harden (24 hours), then grind it, removing it from the mold. To add gloss, the bracelet is varnished.

Colored resin products

Any jewelry can be made not only from transparent, but also from colored epoxy. On sale there are dyes of all colors of the rainbow, luminescent and fluorescent colors. The work of pouring jewelry will be similar, only the resin is pre-stained with dry pigment. Knead it gently, strictly in a circle so that air bubbles do not appear. The blanks are covered with lids so that dust does not get on them.

Some people prefer to pour whole bars, after cutting out sets of jewelry from them. By the way, when decorating them, it is quite possible to use a tree - tiny knots, twigs, sawdust. This will give the jewelry uniqueness and originality, allowing you to create a real author's accessory.

Any space can be made truly attractive with the help of original interior items. This is exactly what a table decorated with epoxy resin is. It will cost you much less than a finished store product, but its appearance will be much more spectacular. Next, you know how to make a table out of wood and epoxy resin with your own hands to decorate your interior.

Solid wood and epoxy resin top.

Material Features

Epoxy resin is a synthetic material based on oligomeric compounds. Due to its versatility and unique properties, epoxy is used in many industries and is widely used in everyday life, however, to display its characteristics, it must be mixed with hardeners. These are special substances based on phenols that start an irreversible polymerization process, i.e. hardening.

Epoxy Benefits:

  1. Very little shrinkage.
  2. Resistant to chemicals, in particular acids and alkalis.
  3. Huge design possibilities (including the use of a wide variety of materials for decoration, color palette, shape and appearance).
  4. Resistance to mechanical stress and deformation.
  5. Resistant to high humidity due to high water resistance.
  6. Working with the material is relatively simple - you need to clearly follow the instructions.

The cost of finished pieces of furniture decorated with epoxy is from 10 thousand rubles, and some designer models can cost six figures. Therefore, it is much more budgetary to make an exclusive interior item with your own hands.

Base and hardener.

Table types

There are many options for tables decorated with epoxy. They differ in both design and construction features. Let's get acquainted with the main varieties:


At tables with a base, one more classification can be made:


Materials and tools

For the manufacture of countertops, you need to choose the right epoxy resin. Let us denote that the curing of the mixture occurs within a very wide temperature range (-10 ... + 200 C), therefore the mixtures are divided into cold and hot curing. Usually in domestic conditions, cold curing mixtures are used.

In this work we will use the following materials and tools:

  • plywood sheets 15 mm and 6 mm (for the pouring table and cover);
  • slab of the desired size (you can use any type of wood);
  • epoxy resin and hardener (the amount depends on the desired product size);
  • capacious container (2 pcs.) for mixing resin;
  • drill, saw, grinder, cutter;
  • building level, spatula.

Various arrays.

Important! Before buying a resin and hardener, the consultant must be asked about the purpose of the composition - whether it can be mixed in large quantities.

The fact is that the technology for preparing several kilograms of the mixture and a small amount are different. When the two components are mixed, a large amount of heat is generated, and if the compositions are not designed for large volumes, in the worst case, this can lead to the formation of toxic smoke and even spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the compositions must necessarily be intended for mixing in large quantities.

Before buying a large amount of resin, purchase small containers and make test probes - you will understand how to work with the composition (and how not to), its properties, and the final shade.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the original countertop, it is worth preparing work clothes:

  • painting paper suit;
  • protective gloves;
  • protective headgear;
  • goggles in the polishing stage.

Important! These precautions are necessary to prevent hair, debris and dust from entering the resin, since it will be almost impossible to remove them from the composition.

Means of protection.

Also, before starting work, you need to familiarize yourself with and strictly observe the safety precautions:

  1. To mix the compositions, use only the container that you do not use for food.
  2. If the solution gets on the skin, it must be removed with soap and water, wipe the place with alcohol.
  3. The room in which you work must be well ventilated or have forced ventilation.

Remember that uncured epoxy resin is not safe for health, in particular the respiratory system and skin (it can cause burns and irritation).

Regardless of the base material, its preparation comes down to two main points that provide good adhesion (adhesion of the composition to the surface):

  1. Degreasing. To do this, you can use detergents.
  2. Gloss removal. This can be done with a grinder or just sandpaper if the surface of the product is small. After that, be sure to carefully remove dust and debris with a vacuum cleaner!

Video: epoxy staining.

Step by step production

  1. We are preparing the pouring table (in other words, the formwork). Its parameters must be equal to the final product. To do this, you need to make a simple construction of plywood (15 mm). To prevent the epoxy from sticking to it, the walls can be lubricated with technical petroleum jelly or any other technical grease.
  2. Making a filling table.

  3. Slab (or other used wood) needs to be leveled, sanded. Wood can be stained and varnished.
  4. A very important point is the leveling of the countertop - if this is not done, the final product will turn out to be uneven, asymmetrical, with resin influxes.
  5. Leveling with a level.

  6. Arrange the wood on the casting table as desired. If, in addition to wood, you use any decor, it must first be glued, otherwise it will pop up when pouring.
  7. Prepare the pouring solution. Use a scale to accurately measure the quantity. Measure the resin in one container, the hardener in the second. Then slowly and carefully pour the hardener into the resin (not vice versa!), constantly mixing the composition with a mixer for a drill (at low speed). For complete mixing, it is advisable to pour the composition from one container to another several times, removing the remains with a construction spatula. The minimum mixing time is 10 minutes. If desired, pigment is also added at this stage.

    Important! Strictly observe the proportions of resin and hardener indicated on the package! Different manufacturers have different ratios. Do not add more than recommended hardener - this will not speed up the cure, but may cause the mixture to boil and make it unusable!

  8. Mixture preparation.

  9. Filling the first layer. The resin must be poured evenly over the entire area, gently in zigzag movements - the composition itself should easily spread over the entire area. But you can also spread it with a rubber spatula. Control the thickness of the layer (the recommended value is indicated on the resin package) - if you make the layer thicker, the resin may boil or warp at the edges.
  10. Filling process.

  11. When mixing the resin and hardener, bubbles form (the thicker the composition, the more of them). When thoroughly mixed, they come to the surface. If the bubbles formed in the thickness of the mixture during pouring, and need to be removed with improvised materials: a needle, fork, etc.

    Tip: to speed up the release of bubbles, the filled layer can be heated for 2-3 minutes with a building hair dryer at medium temperature.

  12. Layer thickness control.

  13. Remove all dust, fluff and close the product with a curing lid. The plywood sheet that is used as a cover can be additionally varnished on the inside to protect the countertop from dust.
  14. To fill the next layer, you do not need to wait for complete curing - it is enough for the layer to stop sticking. All subsequent layers are filled in the same way as the first. When the voids in the slab are filled flush with the wood, the wood can be covered with a thin layer of epoxy using a brush. Next, the countertop is covered with a lid until cured.
  15. Filling the last layer.

post-processing

After the last layer has hardened, the stage of final processing of the product will follow. It is advisable to proceed to this stage no earlier than 7 days from the moment of pouring.

  1. Pull the product out of the pouring table.
  2. Saw off excess pieces of slab to give the countertop the correct geometric shape. The epoxy layer can also be sawn, but be careful - during rough processing, chips and cracks can form. Use a circular saw to cut.
  3. The product must be sanded with a grinder, cutter, etc.
  4. Finally, the item can be finished with a UV-resistant clear coat to prevent yellowing of the epoxy.

Now it remains only to attach the countertop to the base of metal or wood.

Table with metal base.

Product care

In conclusion, we will give some tips for caring for the original countertop so that it retains its attractive appearance for a long time:

  • place the table in a shaded place;
  • for care, use a soft cloth (flannel);
  • do not use products containing acetone and alcohol to remove contaminants;
  • put hot pots and cups on coasters;
  • prevent heavy objects from falling.

So, now you know how to make an original piece of furniture with your own hands - a table made of wood and epoxy. Such a little thing will surely become the highlight of your interior and the object of rave reviews from all the guests of the house!

It often happens that the surface of a still strong table has acquired an unsightly appearance. Or you want to add some zest to the standard factory furniture after the repair. For craftsmen who prefer creative solutions, there is a great way out: a do-it-yourself epoxy resin countertop. At the same time, such a tabletop will perfectly fit into the interior of any room: the main thing is to choose the right decorative details and place accents.

Advantages and disadvantages of epoxy resin countertops

Epoxy resin is a unique material whose properties can be used to create real masterpieces, from miniature decorations to finishing large surfaces such as countertops and even floors.

Epoxy grout is a two-component material consisting of resin and hardener. One of the most remarkable properties of the fill is the preservation of the original volume after drying. It covers surfaces with a uniform transparent layer, without forming cracks or bulges. Therefore, using epoxy resin, you can turn any surface, no matter how complex its configuration, into a real work of art.

It can be used to cover surfaces with a pre-printed pattern or ornament, as well as with small decorative elements laid out on surfaces. In this case, the surface of the table will be an interesting 3D image, made according to an individual project.

A worktop coated with epoxy resin, in addition to its spectacular appearance, acquires a number of advantages in operation over a conventional wooden or plastic surface:

  • When dried, the coating does not shrink and acquires a perfectly flat surface;
  • It has good resistance to mechanical damage - dents from impacts, cuts or chips;
  • Excellent moisture resistance, which is important for kitchen surfaces;
  • Not afraid of the aggressive effects of most cleaning chemicals;
  • It is not subject to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet rays;
  • Does not require the use of expensive household chemicals for care.

The main disadvantages that epoxy resin has for pouring countertops include:

  • With a sharp decrease in temperature, the appearance of “white flakes” in the depth of the pour;
  • Under the influence of high temperatures, it can release toxins during evaporation;
  • When preparing the fill, accuracy in proportions is needed to obtain the desired result;
  • The need for strict adherence to safety precautions during work.

In order to remove the flakes that appeared during hypothermia from the surface of the table, you can warm it up to 50-60 degrees. And you can avoid the evaporation of harmful substances from the epoxy surface if you cover it with a layer of protective transparent varnish, for example, yacht varnish.

Types of epoxy resin countertops

Epoxy resin countertops can be of several types:
  • Fully epoxy, no backing;
  • Epoxy coated bases made of wood, chipboard or other material;
  • Combined - wood fragments and resin alternating in a free order.

An epoxy resin-only top without a backing surface can be made for an elegant coffee or coffee table that is not expected to carry a heavy load. It will look original if you fill with epoxy resin a beautifully laid out ornament made of dried flowers or any other materials. You can also add multi-colored or plain glitter to the transparent fill.

In the second case, epoxy resin for pouring countertops serves as a decorating and protective layer for a base made of another material. An old countertop, solid wood or paneled surface, multiplex can be used as a basis.

The base can be of any shape - rounded or sustained in straight lines and with corners. The main thing at the same time is to create for the base the sides of the height necessary for pouring, so that after hardening the countertop has even and smooth side surfaces.

As a wooden base, you can take an array with a natural structure, or artificially decorate it with carving, milling, marquetry. In addition, after a thorough cleaning of old paint and varnish, the old tabletop can be polished, repainted and decorated with small pebbles, coins, dried flowers, even buttons.

An example of what the countertop coating looks like after pouring with epoxy

Making your own countertop

Since an epoxy countertop can be made with or without a base, we will consider both options - each has its own characteristics.

The table top, made only of epoxy without a base, looks very impressive due to its transparency and inclusions of decorative elements. With certain skills, such a tabletop can be made with the most intricate outlines and an original 3D pattern in an array of hardened resin.

Make a transparent countertop using glass as a mold:

  • the glass of the required size and shape is thoroughly cleaned, dried and degreased with acetone;
  • before pouring, the surface of the glass is rubbed with wax mastic, which, after hardening, is polished with a dry rag;
  • polished aluminum corners are used as sides for the mold, the inner surface of which is treated with a paraffin-turpentine mixture - this will allow you to easily remove the frozen countertop from the mold;
  • corners are attached to the bottom surface of the glass using window putty.

Another option is also possible, when a countertop completely made of epoxy resin is then inserted into a frame made of a material suitable for the style of the product.

In order for the filling to solidify properly, it should take 2-3 days. Prior to this, it is impossible to remove the countertop from the mold.

In order not to have to drill holes in the hardened resin for fastening the legs, foresee this in advance by marking the places for future fastenings and strengthening small sections of the pipe of the required diameter in the form. After solidification, the segments are removed, and the fasteners for the legs are screwed in their place.

A wood-based countertop is easier to make because the resin for the countertops is poured onto an already prepared surface. At the same time, as in the case of a glass form, bumpers are made along the edges of the tabletop - they can be subsequently removed. And you can apply the option when the wooden sides are part of the countertop, and the resulting "bath" is filled with resin.

The process of pouring epoxy resin with your own hands is not so complicated, but it requires accuracy when working.

Tabletops look very nice, where the wooden parts alternate with transparent inserts. To do this, you can also use glass as a base, on which wooden fragments are laid out, and the distances between them are filled with epoxy fill.

If you plan to use an old board as a base, then the work must be done in two stages: first, existing cavities and cracks deepen a little in the board, which are then filled with tinted liquid epoxy. After the first layer has hardened, the entire countertop is already poured, while the previously filled indentations stand out beautifully on the transparent surface.

After the pouring work is completed, it is necessary to protect the surface during hardening from moisture, dust and insects - they can significantly spoil the whole work. To do this, polyethylene should be stretched over the countertop, reinforced on a pre-prepared frame.

After complete crystallization of the material, the surface is polished and covered with a protective varnish.

Rules for working with epoxy resin

There are several rules that must be strictly observed when working with epoxy resin:

  • old surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of old paint, varnish, degreased and polished before pouring;
  • if this is a new board, it must be thoroughly dried and sanded with sandpaper before work;
  • when preparing an epoxy fill with a hardener, you must first measure the required amount of resin, and then add the hardener to it, strictly observing the proportions and order of mixing the components;
  • stir the fill very carefully, but without sudden movements, avoiding the formation of air bubbles;
  • all work must be carried out in a ventilated area;
  • since the resin is difficult to remove from surfaces during solidification, it is better to cover the floor with polyethylene or paper;
  • to work with epoxy, you should remove your hair under a hat and put on a cotton suit - any lint or hair that has fallen on the surface to be poured will spoil its appearance;
  • it is not necessary to carry out work on pouring the countertop in a room with high humidity or not warm enough - the air temperature should be at least + 22 ° C;
  • it is impossible to accelerate the process of crystallization of epoxy with a building hair dryer - it boils at a temperature above 60 ° C, forming numerous bubbles.

Filling the tree should be uniform and neat

Conclusion

Even a person who does not have experience in carpentry is quite capable of making an epoxy resin tabletop with his own hands.

The main condition for success is strict adherence to the instructions for preparing the filling, compliance with safety rules and the procedure for performing work. Imagine, create - and enjoy the results of your work!

EpoxyMax is one of the best resin and hardener manufacturers. The best option is "ED-20" of the highest grade with a capacity of 5 kg

Video: creating an epoxy countertop

Photo examples

In modern interior design, extraordinary and exclusive interior items are increasingly being used, capable of focusing on themselves all the attention of the people present in the room. Such an original interior solution includes tables decorated with epoxy resin.

This interesting thing can be done with your own hands, turning an ordinary piece of furniture into a genuine work of art.

Properties

In the furniture industry, epoxy resins are not used in their pure form, since the magical qualities of epoxy are manifested as a result of its contact with a special hardener. By changing the ratio of these two connected parts, you can get a composition of different consistency. Depending on the purpose for which it will be used, it can be:

  • liquid essence,
  • viscous or rubbery substance;
  • solid;
  • high strength base.

The manufacturing process of any furniture with decor using epoxy resin involves coating the wooden base with this polymer and carefully polishing the product after the resin has hardened, as a result, a product with high wear resistance will be obtained. The general properties of the entire composition will depend on the correct ratio of ingredients. The wrong amount of hardener can significantly reduce the strength of the finished product, as well as its resistance to environmental influences and household products. Therefore, it is so important when preparing a mixture for work to observe the ratios recommended by the polymer manufacturer, most often these ratios are 1: 1.

According to the method of use, epoxy resin can be hot cured or cold cured. When creating pieces of furniture at home, the second type is most often used.

Advantages and disadvantages

Compared to conventional natural wood tables, epoxy treated tables have a number of advantages:

  • the composition of the resin, when dried, has practically no shrinkage, keeps its shape well, retains its original color, does not deform and is not subject to mechanical damage;
  • exclusivity of each product and unlimited design options;
  • the ability to use various additional materials for decor (coins, tree cuts, shells, stones, starfish, etc.);
  • the possibility of adding multi-colored dyes to the mixture, including phosphorescent paints;

  • impermeability to moisture and dampness;
  • excellent tolerance of cleaning chemicals.

The main disadvantage of these tables is the very high cost of the product. To cover one copy, depending on the size and shape of the product, it can take up to several tens of liters of a polymer substance. Another possible unpleasant drawback is the presence of air bubbles that form in the epoxy mixture as a result of non-compliance with instructions and technologies during production.

Manufacturing process

The very first and one of the most important steps in preparing a wooden structure for pouring with epoxy resin is the thorough removal of dust and all other contaminants from the surface of the tree. After that, the surface of the table, which will be poured, must be primed. If this is not done, then the resin, absorbed into the porous wood, forms air bubbles that will spoil the appearance of the product.

Only after the preparation stage is completed is the required amount of mixture of epoxy resin and hardener prepared. At this stage, the most important thing is strict observance of the proportions specified in the instructions for use. Depending on the chosen design, dyes or additional decorative materials can be added to the finished mixture. Next, the resulting mixture is applied to the prepared wooden surface.

If a certain design is conceived on the tabletop from additional materials, then they must be placed on the surface of the table even before pouring. Moreover, light materials, such as wine corks or shells, must first be glued to the surface in accordance with the intended pattern. It is necessary, so that during the pouring of the mixture they do not surface, thereby turning a well-thought-out composition into a disorderly and uninteresting structure. If unwanted air bubbles appear during the pouring process, they can be removed with a building hair dryer by directing a jet of hot air to the problem area.

The mixture will begin to set after fifteen minutes, but the final stage, namely the grinding of the product, can only be started after the resin has completely hardened. It is advisable to withstand the product for a week, since after this period it will have completely settled down and will be ready for use.

After grinding, it is desirable to cover the product with several layers of protective varnish. This will prevent the release of toxic substances into the atmosphere, which in small quantities may be contained in resin compositions.

Variety of options

To create a table with an original tabletop decorated with epoxy resin, you can take absolutely any type of tree, including a variety of fragments, cuts, chips and even sawdust, the main thing is that everything, even the tiniest particles of the future tabletop, be thoroughly dried. In epoxy resin, old and rough wood looks amazing. For decoration, you can also successfully use sea and river shells, pebbles, dry herbs and flowers, coins, and other inclusions that can give the product a special originality or a certain theme. And by mixing luminescent dyes with epoxy resin, you will create a magical glow effect.

A tree that has been eaten by bark beetles or damaged by dampness looks very unusual in resin. Natural damage filled with epoxy with the addition of dye or luminous paint can create unrealistically beautiful space patterns on the countertop. All kinds of holes, cracks and paths in wood can also be created artificially, creating your own pattern. All small holes are filled with the prepared mortar using a construction spatula. After curing, excess resin is removed using a grinder.

The process of manufacturing countertops by pouring is the most expensive and time-consuming, and also requires special care in work. It is used in the manufacture of worktops with attachments, as well as to create original design pieces with fantastic ideas and unusual solutions. Like the famous American designer Greg Klassen, which creates original models of tables with "natural landscapes". The “river” or “lake”, frozen in the tabletops of his amazing tables, amaze with its grandeur and incredible beauty.

How to make a wooden table with an epoxy resin river with your own hands, see the following video.

Today, there are many materials from which aesthetic and practical furniture can be obtained, and epoxy has recently become one of them. With the help of wood and this glue, quite interesting designer tables and shelves are made. Next, we will tell you all about the technical process.

Until recently, this two-component adhesive was widely used mainly for the reliable connection of various materials, then it began to be used as a component for self-leveling floors. At the same time, such properties as low abrasion of the surface, high strength, and durability were noted. Further, separate transparent stamps began to be used for very interesting dioramas, where epoxy resin with dyes imitated water. Moreover, the creators made entire tables depicting various landscapes. Perhaps it was these experiments that prompted the creation of designer furniture made of wood and epoxy glue.

Epoxy resin can be molded into any shape

The main thing that can be noted as the advantage of the above-mentioned polymer resin is the ability to give it any shape due to fluidity in the liquid state and plasticity at the stage of hardening.. In addition, the cured glue is quite easily processed, in particular: it is ground and polished, if necessary, it can be drilled, grooved in it. There are both completely transparent marks after hardening, and having a red, brown, yellowish or whitish color to the full depth. In this case, in a liquid consistency, it is allowed to add various components that improve or simply change the properties of the composition. The main positive property of the adhesive is the absence of shrinkage due to the fact that the composition hardens solely due to a chemical reaction, and, as a result, a flat surface plane is maintained.

Now let's talk about the disadvantages. The fact that cured epoxy is easy to work with can sometimes also be a disadvantage, since the surface is easily scratched. Otherwise, the wear resistance of this material is very high. Another factor preventing the widespread use of glue for furniture production is its price, which is quite impressive and allows you to create only single design products. Brands that differ in absolute transparency after solidification are considered especially expensive. And, of course, do not forget about the toxicity of polymer resin fumes, work with which should be carried out in well-ventilated areas and always in a respirator.

To date, there are a lot of brands of domestic and foreign production. In fact, anything is suitable for making furniture, if you do not have special requirements for the result, however, if you want to combine wood with epoxy, you definitely need transparent compositions. Otherwise, you will not be able to show the beauty of the wood fibers in the depth of the fill. As a rule, among imported options, you should pay attention to the brand YD-128 with a high degree of transparency. Also performed well MG-Epox-Strong used for pouring and obtaining transparent optical products. If you need to get a color coating, use MG Epox White- this type is distinguished by a milky white color.

For pouring, glue of a liquid consistency is required

All of the above options are a two-component glue of a liquid consistency, which, in fact, is what you need for pouring, since pasty is not suitable for this purpose. It should be noted that different brands can be quite successfully combined with each other; in this case, milky inclusions of one type of glue can be enclosed in the thickness of a transparent fill. It will look especially impressive when adding dyes and in combination with wood inclusions. The main thing is not to mix too large portions, because in this case the reaction with the hardener heats up the composition, due to which it polymerizes faster.

There are 5 states of glue. If it has a liquid base, its consistency will be appropriate after mixing with the hardener, such an epoxy resin should have good fluidity. It is she who is recommended to fill in the manufacture of a furniture panel, whether it be a shelving shelf or a future chest of drawers. A thicker version, similar to honey or molasses, is suitable for gluing and for layering. Thickened to the point where fluidity is almost completely absent and individual parts are poorly separated, it is sometimes suitable as a putty. Further, the glue begins to resemble rubber, or plasticine, however, it remains very sticky, which does not interfere with giving it an arbitrary shape with a stick or wire. And finally, the last state is completely hardened.

As mentioned above, 2 types of glue are used for the manufacture of furniture - transparent and matte, and each of them can be colored. Now we will look at both options in more detail. For various combinations with wood or other inclusions, it is best to use transparent mixtures, especially those used for optical castings. In this case, even through a thick layer of glue, every detail of the inclusion will be clearly visible, whether it be wood trimming fibers or metal elements (for example, old badges or gears). When adding a special dye, the transparency decreases somewhat, but not completely, but the fill gets a rich color.

From colored epoxy, you can create interesting interior items

If you want to get a high-quality colored mixture, add color from the same manufacturer that made the adhesive mass.

Color mixtures are initially somewhat cloudy, they can be called rather translucent, and they are unsuitable as the main fill covering the wood. The reason is simple - any inclusions simply will not be visible. But you can do the opposite and fill in such all kinds of cavities in the cut of wood, voids from knots, the passages of woodworms that have opened on the cut. Luminescent dye, combined with glue, will look especially impressive. Then the slightest illumination will be enough for the furniture panel or countertop to glow by itself.

Such a combination as epoxy and wood has proven itself well for the simple reason that a perfectly smooth surface is obtained, and at the same time, the pouring consumption is relatively small. The main volume is occupied by wood, which is covered on all sides by a thin layer of polymer resin. However, be prepared for the fact that the expense will still be noticeable. It is easy to calculate that 100 grams of glue will take 100 grams of glue per 10 square centimeters of filling with a thickness of 1 centimeter. Accordingly, 10 liters of composition will be needed per 1 square meter, and 20 liters per 1x2 meter countertop. And this is only for the top layer, but if you make a layer of epoxy thicker in order to immerse wood trimmings or a board shield into it, then you will need at least 2 times more mixture.

There are quite a few subtleties of using glue. In particular, an interesting effect can be achieved by adding a little water to the composition. In this place, milky-white stains are formed, similar to a nebula. That is, with small drops of water, you can get beautiful inclusions in the painted epoxy. You can make a multi-color coating by portionwise pouring portions painted with different colors or separating them with small thin plastic barriers. But such fills should be thin enough, no more than 0.5 centimeters, but on top you will need another, transparent layer. You can color the composition with ordinary dry gouache, as well as ink for writing (including paste from ballpoint pen refills), oil and nitro paints.

Epoxy has a very strong adhesion to almost all materials, in other words, if you choose the wrong formwork, the glue will stick to it tightly. The only thing that epoxy does not stick to is plexiglass, the main thing is that there are no scratches and chips on it. Also, some craftsmen recommend using strips and sheets of polished aluminum. If you want to finish the table only from above, the epoxy resin is poured into the formwork fixed along the side edges of the panel. Accordingly, the ends of the countertop will not be covered with glue.

If you need to cover only the surface of the countertop with resin, you should make a formwork

It is a completely different matter if you need a thickness of a transparent polymer, inside which, like an insect in amber, a saw cut of wood or its individual fragments will be enclosed. In this case, the inclusions should be fixed with a conventional starch paste on the base, which will serve as a large sheet of Plexiglas. If you want the wood to be in the middle of the epoxy, fix the inclusion on the sides of the formwork. The walls of the mold must be attached to the base sheet only from the outside, so that they can be easily detached after the mixture has completely solidified.

We knead and pour epoxy - we make a transparent or colored panel

It is noteworthy that the reaction after mixing the main component of the adhesive with the hardener is accompanied by heating the composition. And the larger the serving volume, the stronger the heating, the faster the epoxy sets. Therefore, it is recommended to use only small containers. Some experts advise adding acetone to the main component, about 10% of the total volume, and only before mixing with the hardener. This will reduce heat and prolong the curing process of the composition. You can also influence the hardening process by slowing it down somewhat by cooling the dishes. With a sharp cooling, the solidification in the future will proceed very slowly, over several days.

Furniture made of transparent epoxy resin is of two types - massive cast or assembled from prefabricated panels. In the first case, the stools look like pedestals, the tables look more like thick plates, while the second option is closer to the classic pieces of furniture. But whichever type you choose, before the wood and the mixed epoxy are bonded, the base must be perfectly level with a spirit level, which is easy to do by hand. Otherwise, the mixture will flow to the lower edge. To set the horizontal, you can put wedges under the edges, and under the middle of the plank of different thicknesses so that the Plexiglas sheet does not bend. A table made of wood also needs to be leveled by placing thin liners under the legs.

Now we are preparing the filling. To do this, you will need a small container, approximately 0.5 liters, maximum 1 liter, as well as a kneading stick. Measurements should be included in the kit, if they are not, prepare cups with divisions applied to them. We take the main component, measure out a certain amount of it, sufficient to obtain a thin layer. If the epoxy table will have a large area, prepare several containers at once to knead the amount that will create a layer about 0.5 centimeters thick. Open all windows to allow fresh air into the room.

Be sure to put on special clothes with which the threads will not fall, put your hair under a hat or scarf, put on gloves on your hands. It is highly undesirable that hairs, eyelashes, villi get into the composition. In order for products made of wood and transparent epoxy resin to be free of bubbles, if extra inclusions are found after emptying the container with the composition into the formwork, slightly heat such an area with a hairdryer, the air should escape. Solidification takes several days, especially if the fill forms several layers. Further, to smooth the countertop, we carefully grind and polish the surface with the finest sandpaper and felt with special pastes.

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