Drain for a shower cabin: types of structures and rules for their arrangement. What to do if the sewer is above the drain level? Sewer pipe above bathroom drain

The bathroom is usually supplied complete with legs or a frame on which this sanitary ware is mounted. In the manufacture of fonts, manufacturers are repelled by the fact that the distance from the floor to its side should be about 60-65 cm.

However, sometimes there are situations when the standard height of the bath is inconvenient for use or water does not drain well from it. In this case, there is only one way out - to lift it. In this article, we will tell you how to raise the bathtub above floor level in 3 most popular ways, as well as what are the advantages of each of them.

Why do you need to raise the bath?

In general, the standard height of the bathtub above the floor, according to building rules and regulations, should be 60-65 cm. This standard was calculated in accordance with the average height of a person and has been tested by more than one generation.

If the font is installed at this height, then it is convenient and safe to use it. However, situations sometimes arise when you have to raise the bath above the floor. Most often, this procedure is performed to solve the following problems:

Remember that the standard height is calculated and fixed in SNiPs and GOSTs, as it is suitable for most people. However, if there is a need to raise the floor font, then this can be done by lengthening the legs, constructing a podium from foam blocks or bricks, or using a frame.

Difficulties of raising the bath above the floor

Before you raise the bath, so that the drain works well, you need to calculate everything well. Flaws in installation can lead to discomfort during washing due to the instability of the font, deformation of the walls or bottom of the bowl, chipping of the enamel.

When choosing a method for raising the bath above floor level, the following nuances should be considered:

Note! There are 3 most important factors to consider when choosing how you will raise your bathtub: the material the tub is made of, the height to which it will be lifted, and the weight of the model.

Leg extension

The most common way to install bathtubs is to use supports or simply legs. With this mounting option, models made of cast iron, steel, and even acrylic can be installed. The legs included in the scope of delivery usually have a standard height.

If the legs are made in the form of a screw, then they can be adjusted. If the height of the standard legs is not enough, or with the help of them you need to give the bath a slope towards the drain for better water drainage, then they can be lengthened.

To do this, proceed as follows:

1. First, you need to detach the waste-overflow from the bathtub and lay it on its side to make it easier to dismantle the standard legs.
2. Then you need to remove the old legs, take one as a sample to the store, and then purchase a metal hairpin of the same diameter, but longer.
3. Then you need to fix the new screws, if necessary, the height of the knife can be adjusted to give a slope towards the drain hole.
4. After that, connect the drain and set the bath to its original position.

Important! This method of lengthening the legs has several disadvantages. Firstly, this method cannot increase the distance between the floor and the side of the font by more than 5-7 cm. Secondly, the load on the legs increases significantly, due to which they can be deformed. Therefore, when buying screws for lengthening the legs, you need to pay attention to the material from which they are made and the diameter of the section.

Using stands made of solid material

As we have already figured out, lengthening the legs to increase the height of the bath is not the best way. Its main drawback is the small area of ​​​​the supports, which leads to an increase in the load on the legs, as well as deformation of the walls and chips on the enamel of the bowl.

To increase the area on which a fairly massive plumbing fixture rests, you can use stands made of bricks, foam blocks or paving slabs instead of legs. The advantages of this method are:

Important! With heavy bathtubs made of easily deformable acrylic bathtubs and heavy models made of cast iron, you need to do just that - install on columns. This is one of the best ways to install hot tubs at non-standard heights. When the bowl is raised on the bricks, it is stable, does not stagger, does not deform under load.

Frame mounting

If you lift an acrylic bathtub with legs, it can deform or even burst under load. To evenly distribute the load and increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe supports, thin-walled fonts are installed on the frame.

The frame can be made of stainless steel metal corners. It can be prefabricated or welded, and the second option is characterized by increased strength.

Before working on the installation of the frame, you need to make sure that you have everything you need:

• Corners made of stainless steel, the section of which is sufficient to support the weight of the bath.
• Bulgarian with a disk for metal.
• Welding machine.
• Self-tapping screws and anchors for attaching the frame to the walls and floor.
• Perforator for making fixing holes in the wall and on the floor.
• Screwdriver.
• Putty for the treatment of seams in order to protect against corrosion.

Please note that when we raise the bathtub above the floor level with the help of a frame, it is quite difficult to give it a slope. Therefore, this method is suitable in cases where the bottom of the tank has a natural slope towards the drain hole, and the water flows well.

Video instruction

If the slope of the sewer pipes does not meet the requirements of SNiP and the inlet of the riser is located at or above the drain from the sink, bathtub and toilet bowl, the sewer does not work properly, blockages form in it.

From the article you will learn what the slope of sewer pipes should be, why the sewer does not work well with the wrong slope, and how to make the right slope.

How sewer works

Water is drained into the sewer from the toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, washing machines and dishwashers and other devices. This water contains organic impurities ranging in size from hundredths of a millimeter to several centimeters. The composition and amount of impurities are different, so the sewage system is calculated in such a way that drain and fecal water passes without delay.

The calculation method is described in SNiP 2.04.01-85. If we simplify the formulas, then the correct slope depends on the flow rate of sewage and fecal water and the diameter of the pipes. For thin pipes (40-50 mm) it corresponds to 2-3 cm per meter of length, for thick pipes (90-110 mm) 1-2 cm. cling to the unevenness and roughness of the pipe.

The low flow rate does not allow water to break off stuck or stuck fragments, resulting in a blockage. With an excessive slope, the water speed increases, so the fragments hit the bumps with more force, so some of them stick to the pipes and form a blockage. Another unpleasant manifestation of excessive pipe slope is increased noise when draining water.

The slope is the difference in the heights of the water inlets of the horizontal collector (lounger) and the inlet of the vertical common house collector (riser). Therefore, the slope depends on the height of the hole in the riser, the level of the floor and the height of the receiving hole of the lounger above the floor.

How to change the slope of the sewer

To change the slope, do the following:

• lower the receiving hole in the common house riser;
• raise the level of the floor to raise the receiving opening of the lounger;
• lift the plumbing fixture and inlet without changing the floor level.

How to change the height of the inlet in the riser

If you transfer the receiving hole below, keep in mind that the riser is a common house communication. If you do something wrong and deprive the upstairs neighbors of the opportunity to use the toilet normally, it will not turn out to be good for you.

If you cut the sewer into the riser lower than it is connected, consider the following. Without damage to the floor slab, the minimum height of the inlet from the floor is 2.5 cm. To connect the lounger to the riser, you must use a clamp that blocks the drain hole by at least a quarter of the diameter in each direction.

The diameter of the lounger is 90-110 mm, therefore, in order to lower it lower than 2.5 cm, it is necessary to damage the floor slab.

The process of connecting to the riser is described in detail in the article.

Unless you are a professional builder, do not damage the floor slab. It's life-threatening. Under Russian law, making changes to the design of a building without the approval of the city's architecture department is illegal and punishable by a heavy fine.

If the minimum distance from the floor to the inlet of the riser does not allow you to create the correct slope, raise the inlet of the sunbed. To do this, raise the floor level or the installation level of plumbing fixtures.

How to raise the level of the floor

The floor level is raised to avoid height differences in front of the bathroom or toilet. If it is necessary to raise the floor level by 10 centimeters or less, then a concrete screed of the required thickness is poured.

For screed, a cement-sand mixture with the addition of crushed stone is used. For one part of cement grade not lower than 300, 3 parts of sand and 4-6 parts of crushed stone are taken. Such filling is performed on concrete floors.

If the floors are made of wood, the concrete screed will bring them down. For such floors, a frame is made of wooden blocks and a floorboard or moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

Before raising the floor, lay a new sunbed with the required slope, or increase the slope of the old one. Fasten the pipes.

To pour the screed, clean the floor of dirt and debris. Lay a reinforcing mesh of steel or fiberglass reinforcement on the floor. The mesh will prevent cracking of the screed. Then install formwork to raise the level of the floor in the separate room.

Set the beacons (wooden or metal guides) to the level. They are necessary to create a smooth horizontal surface of the screed. Install beacons on wooden bars or bricks. Before pouring, check the beacons again with a level. If the deviation is more than 2 mm per 2 meters, align.

Beacons for pouring screed

Thoroughly mix the concrete with a drill or hammer attachment. Ready concrete is a homogeneous mass without lumps and inclusions of dry sand or cement. Moisten the floor and pour concrete. Level the concrete with the board on the lighthouses. The screed will gain full strength in 25 days.

To raise the level of the floor on a hardwood floor, purchase wooden blocks 50 mm thick. Determine the width by the formula - the difference in the heights of the ceiling and the new floor level minus the thickness of the plywood (floorboard).

From the bars make logs - guides for plywood. Lay them across the room, the distance between the lags is 40-50 cm. At the installation site of the bath or toilet, the distance between the lags is 20-30 cm. Cover the logs with plywood or a floorboard. Dock the flooring only on the logs. Do not allow boards or sheets to be joined in a space without a lag.

These methods raise the level of the floor both in the entire room and in a separate part. Raising the floor level in one part of the room reduces the load on the ceiling and reduces the consumption of materials.

After the floor level has been raised, install and connect the plumbing. If you did everything right, then the slope of the lounger will be optimal, the drainage of fecal and sewage will improve and the chance of blockage will be reduced tenfold.

The operation of the sewer depends on the correct slope. Deviations from the slope recommended by SNiP reduces the efficiency and reliability of sewage. From the article, you learned what the correct slope should be, how the slope is changed, and why it is undesirable to touch the sewer riser. You have learned how to raise the level of the floor on wooden and concrete floors and thus change the slope of the sewer.

Usually people do not wonder about the level of sewerage. But exactly until the level of sewerage is higher than the toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, shower room, washing machine, etc. Usually a new building, be it a country house in a cottage village, a summer house or an apartment, is always designed taking into account the characteristics of the area and opportunities to connect to the existing engineering infrastructure or create their own systems, for example, treatment facilities. In such cases, the level of sewerage is initially a "regulated parameter". The question "What to do if the sewerage is higher?" usually rises where the premises are being reconstructed for tasks that were not originally envisaged in the project.

Until recently, the most common problem with draining into the sewer was at cafes, restaurants, bars, canteens and other establishments that were rebuilding the infrastructure in a newly rented premises. And the problem of the level of sewerage has always been acute for the owners and tenants of basements. Sometimes, even in new apartments with a so-called open plan, it turned out that the sewer drains had to be raised to the level of the drain into the sewer.

Today, the need to forcibly discharge sewage into the sewer has become commonplace both in the sector of suburban housing and apartment buildings. And we are talking not only about new housing, but also about the "secondary". There can be a lot of situations: you decide to organize a sewerage system in your country house, make an “island kitchen”, put a shower, washing machine or toilet in the basement of a country house. In this case, it turns out that the sewer will be higher than the shower and toilet. And in such a situation, gravity sewerage is impossible. But the solution is actually very simple. So much so that you can plan a bathroom, shower, washing machine or dishwasher, kitchen - absolutely anywhere in your house, without even thinking about the sewage level. I hope this article will help those who first encountered the impossibility of organizing a gravity sewer.

The most efficient and simple solution for removing sewage is a sewage pump. As a rule, a sewage pump is a receiving tank in which a float (or membrane) is installed, which gives a command to turn on the engine at a certain filling level. The engine turns on, grinding occurs (if we are talking about fecal effluents) and “emission” into the sewer.

P.S. If you have any questions, suggestions, recommendations - you can write right here in the comments.

Doing repairs in the bathroom and want to connect a shower cabin with your own hands? Agree, the comfort of taking water procedures, and the protection against accidental flooding of the bathroom largely depend on the quality of the installation and the serviceability of the drain equipment.

We will figure out how to choose the right drain for a shower cabin, what parameters to focus on when buying a device. We will also give a step-by-step technology for arranging a shower drain system.

Instructions for assembly and installation of equipment are accompanied by visual photographs for a better understanding of the process. The article is supplemented with videos about the nuances of installing shower drains.

In plumbing stores, they are presented mainly with a classic drainage scheme through a hole in the pan. Such a drain device is easy to install, reliable and does not require preliminary floor preparation.

In the shower rooms of saunas, public baths, more convenient drainage options are used. Water there goes into special holes (ladders) or channels recessed into the floor at the stage of laying tiles.

Image gallery

The corrugated siphon requires good fixation, and after the first descent of a large amount of water, it is necessary to make sure that the corrugation has not deviated

The water seal in corrugated siphons is manually formed in a place remote from the drain. To do this, the hose is bent in the shape of a U and fixed in this position below the level of the sump opening.

There are also exclusive versions of siphons that combine the features of several design options at once.

Arrangement of a drain for a shower cabin

When installing a shower stall, special attention should be paid to the construction of the drain. After all, how correctly it will be done depends on the service life of the cabin and its comfortable operation. So, an improperly connected drain can quickly leak or cause unpleasant odors in the bathroom.

Let's take a closer look at the stages of arranging a bathroom drain.

Stage #1. Shower channel installation

Installation of channel drainage in the bathroom takes place directly into the floor, with fixation from all sides with cement mortar. Before installing the channel, it is necessary to glue the grate with adhesive tape to protect the polished surface from damage.

Stretch film is also suitable for covering the surface of the grate. The main thing is that the protective coating is thin and protects the polished surface from damage.

If the outer surface of the channel is polished, then it is necessary to roughen it with sandpaper so that the cement mortar adheres better. After treatment, it is necessary to treat the surface with a degreasing solution.

The fixation of the channel drain to the floor must be rigid, because the human body weight will be transferred to the tray

Align the tray strictly horizontally using the side adjusters.

It is necessary to tighten the nuts strongly, because the adjusting mechanism will be filled with cement and it will not be possible to tighten the fastener later

Attach one end of the connecting hose to the channel branch pipe, and the other to the sewer pipe. Make sure the hose is fully inserted and firmly fixed.

If you suspect the possibility of water leakage, you must first treat the pipe with a thin layer of silicone.

To drain water, it is better to use a plastic pipe rather than a corrugated hose, because fat deposits accumulate in the recesses of the corrugations

The next step is to fill the space on the sides of the channel with cement, taking into account the thickness of the tiles that will lie on top.

Then put a tile on the cement, the top of which should be 1 mm above the level of the channel so that water does not accumulate at the grate. Tiles in the bathroom must be laid from the drain tray to ensure a smooth joint on all sides and the absence of sharp edges.

For water to drain, there must be a slope of the tile from the sides of the shower area to the drain at the rate of 1-1.5 cm in height per 1 m of floor length.

After laying the tile, it is necessary to clean the place of its junction with the edge of the grating of the channel and fill it with tile adhesive or sealant. After it dries, it is necessary to finally clean the space along the edges of the channel drain and remove the protective film from the grate. The drain is ready!

When installing a channel drain, the following nuances must be considered:

1. The throughput of the channel should not be less than the water flow in the shower. The classic hot tub uses 10 liters per minute.
2. The distance from the branch pipe of the drainage tray to the vertical sewer pipe must be minimal.
3. If in doubt about the throughput of the drain system, you can check it. To do this, you need to fix the tray to the floor, attach it to the sewer pipe and apply water pressure to the tray.
4. The diameter of the hose coming from the branch pipe should not be less than 40 mm, and its slope should not be less than 30 mm per 1 m.
5. When installing a duct drain in the bathroom doors, it is recommended to choose a sectional grate to facilitate access to the siphon.

Following the instructions will allow you to install the channel drain in the shower stall quickly and efficiently. You should not be afraid of blockage in the drainage tray built into the floor, because its design provides for cleaning the system from the outside without the need to dismantle the tiles.

Stage #2. Installing a drain

The installation of the shower drain is carried out in the same way as the channel drain installation scheme described above. Cheap drainage drains are sold without fixing devices, so one nuance should be known when installing them.

If externally the drain device looks like a simple body with an internal mechanism and a discharge hose, then first you need to firmly fix it in the desired position.

To fix the height, you can put a brick, several tiles or other improvised material under the body.

It is impossible to fix the ladder with mounting foam, because later, when you press the ladder grate with your foot, it may fail

With the regulation of horizontal stability, the situation is more complicated. In the absence of fasteners, it will be necessary to control the correct location of the ladder body after laying the cement screed during its drying.

The general layout of the layers of the shower floor at is as follows.

The diagram shows a square drain with fixing elements. Clearing blockages in the drain is carried out after removing the grate and removing the internal elements.

The drain body is actually a hollow flask with a pipe, so after disassembling it, you can even clean the drain hose with a cable.

Stage #3. Installing the shower cabin siphon on the pallet

The process of installing a siphon is so varied that step-by-step tips for installing a particular shower stall drain can only be found in its installation instructions.

Below we will consider the installation of one of the simple types of siphon to understand the fundamental stages of this process. The general scheme of the device is shown in the figure.

August 7, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

The simplest is connecting the bath to the sewer

The main possible problems that the sewer in the bathroom carries are bad smells and leaks. And other “pleasant” consequences follow from this - dampness and fungal mold, which can only be eliminated by removing the leak.

Sewer problems

Causes of Bad Smell: 1 Problem

The smell in the bathroom from the sewer can appear for several reasons:

• the most banal reason why the bathroom smells like sewerage may be the lack of a water seal in the siphon;
• and this does not at all indicate that you have a bad drain - the water simply evaporates if the bathroom is not used for a long time - this can happen if the owners are absent for a long period;
• here is the simplest solution how to remove the smell - just open the water and let it fill the siphon - the water lock will cut off the "aromas";

• in old houses that are already more than 50 years old, the service life of cast-iron pipes has expired, but usually no one changes them, and leaks form from corrosion, as in the photo above;
• here, the causes of the smell may also be the presence of fungal mold or dampness. That is, a leaky pipe does not have to be a sewer - it can be a water supply;
• the solution to the question of how to get rid of the smell during a leak is to dismantle and replace old pipes with new ones - this is better than a welding patch;

• also the reason why it stinks in the bathroom or toilet may be the lack of a fan riser, which must necessarily go to the attic or roof for ventilation;
• in some cases, residents of the upper apartments, when replacing a fan tee, unknowingly remove the fan pipe. As a result, ammonia fumes have nowhere to go, and they enter the room when drainingwhen the water seal is moving - this is the answer to the question of why the smell is in the room;

• we continue to consider the topic of what to do - if the bathroom smells like sewage and pay attention to one more reason - a dirty siphon;
• this problem is especially relevant for the kitchen sink, since greasy dishes are washed there all the time, but this is also quite relevant for sinks and bathtubs, just a bottle or tube will not clog as often as in the kitchen;
• the solution to the problem here is quite simple - you need to disassemble this siphon with your own hands, wash it in warm water with detergent, and assemble it back;
• just be careful when reassembling not to pinch the gaskets, this is especially true for bottle siphons.

Hiding Pipes: Problem 2

Piping and sewerage - necessary slopes

And now let's figure out how to hide the sewer pipes in the bathroom or toilet, if the bathroom is separate. There are three ways here - this is wall decoration or plastic panels, where the sewer will be under the frame, drywall boxes, as in the top photo, or strobes in the wall, which will then be covered with plaster.

Since it is very easy to close the pipes with drywall, this method is very attractive to finishers - it is almost dust-free and there are no wet jobs. But this method has serious disadvantages, especially if the repair is carried out in a state-owned apartment - frame finish steals the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room - this is at least 4-5 cm on each side. And if your bathroom has only three squares, then this is an unaffordable luxury, since every centimeter is important there - bathrooms may not even fit.

But how to hide pipes in strobes, this is already a matter of saving space, but the work itself is very dusty, besides, then you have to plaster the walls. A grinder with a diamond disc cuts two edges of the groove along the diameter of the pipe to be mounted, and then the middle is selected by a perforator in rebound mode.

The grinder raises the dust, so it is advisable for you to use a respirator or gauze bandage, although there are grinders with a vacuum cleaner, which have a rather high price.

Any do-it-yourself installation requires fixing pipes, and if it is made hidden, then it is better not to use brackets - this is too inconvenient. Perforated metal tape hangers are excellent for fastening in strobes or just to the wall - they press the pipe to the surface as much as possible.

Since it is more profitable for you to mount such a pipeline with minimal costs in terms of money and area, then simply fix one end of the suspension with a dowel with a screw, and fix the other “in tightness” - this way the communication will hold tight.

There is a table at the top of the subheading, so if you make the connection yourself, then try to withstand them - this is very important. There is no 32nd pipe in the table, but it is used for dishwashers and washing machines, where the drain is forced, so that a counter slope is even possible there (if technically necessary).

Subtleties of arrangement: 3 problem

But what if the drain in the bathroom is below the sewer level and the water remains at the bottom? One way out here is the simplest - to raise this very bath so that its siphon turns out to be above the level of the outlet.

To do this, you can substitute bricks under the legs, install the container itself without legs on bricks. Only if you put it without legs, then inflate the mounting foam on the bricks so that there is no squeak later (for gravity, draw water into the bath until the foam dries).

Of course, there is another solution to the problem - this is connecting a pump to the communication for forced withdrawal. It will certainly be more expensive, but you will immediately solve all the difficulties with the slope, and this is sometimes very important.

I would also like to draw your attention to how to fix a sewer pipe leak. Of course, it is best to change it, but if this is not possible, then cold welding can be used for metal, and for PVC, MOMENT glue, which, after drying, is tightly wrapped with electrical tape.

Conclusion

I hope you understand how to connect the bath to the sewer - the siphon is simply inserted into the outlet (tee or corner). Perhaps you will have some additions or questions on the topic - write about it, do not be shy! And in addition to the topic, watch the video in this article!

August 7, 2016

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