How much floorboard do you need. How to calculate the square meter of a board
To perform an accurate calculation of floorboards, the calculator, created as an online service, has been around for many years. With it, you can calculate the amount of material that will be needed for the construction of the log and flooring.
The calculator is used to determine the volume of not only the floorboard, but also the material for the subfloor. As with the construction of other structures, the work of creating high-quality floors requires determining the exact amount of fasteners and insulation, end and other parts.
Features of the online calculatorYou need to enter several parameters of the living space into the calculator
The calculation of the floor using an online calculator is based on the dimensions indicated in millimeters. To perform all operations, you will need to clarify:
- floor length and width;
- length and thickness of the lag;
- the width and thickness of the boards;
- house parameters (width).
For each value, there are certain designations, among which there are numbers and letters that reflect:
- thickness and width of the draft boards of the subfloor;
- the number of jumpers between the lags and the step between them;
- distance between boards.
You can find out exactly how many boards you need on the floor by using one of the offered floor calculator programs. You will need competent high-quality drawings, in accordance with which they construct the flooring and equip the floor.
When choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account the features of their parameters. The most popular boards are recognized, the thickness of which reaches 4 cm.
Despite the fact that many designers recommend using products with a much higher parameter, often those boards that are no thicker than 2 cm are often enough.
They are more flexible and durable, and thanks to the high-quality and competent processing of the boards, they are characterized by increased resistance to moisture and temperature extremes.
Correct calculations will allow you to lay a solid screed
It is these qualities that allow properly prepared materials to maintain their original shape, avoid cracking, swelling and other damage and deformation.
When do you need a calculator?
The program will even help determine the optimal distance between the lags
Other data may be required, their indication will help the calculator determine the exact area of the room, choose the most suitable parameters of wood materials from the many existing proposals, the program is able to correctly set the optimal distance between the lags and the components of the structure.
Using the program, the consumer receives specific data on the required amount of not only lumber, but also the insulation required for arranging and creating insulation under a wooden deck. For more information about construction calculators, see this video:
Another feature of the program is the ability to specify some options for the layout of the future floor, allowing you to save and use the minimum amount of wood and insulation during construction work.
To work with the online calculator, there is no need to contact specialists and designers. It is enough to use the services of the Internet, indicating the requested data.
When laying floors in a room, the customer may need to calculate how many floorboards are in a cube, in other words, use a floorboard calculator. This is true both for calculating the total area of coverage, and in order to understand how many boards are required per floor - the calculator is convenient and easy to use. All the data that the floorboard calculator gives out allows you to calculate the exact cost of the order. If we are talking about several rooms, then initially you will need to determine their total area and find out the number of floorboards in a cube.
| Variety | Dimensions | Price per sq. m, rub | Price per cube m, rub | ||||
| Thickness, mm | Width, mm | Length, m | Wholesale | Retail | Wholesale | Retail | |
| Extra | 27 | 142 | 2/3/4 | 1 570 | 1 750 | 58 150 | 64 820 |
| Prima | 27 | 142 | 2/3/4 | 1 300 | 1 490 | 48 150 | 55 190 |
| 1 grade (Scandinavian sorting) |
27 | 142 | 2/3/4 | 810 | 920 | 30 000 | 34 100 |
| 2 grade (Scandinavian sorting) |
27 | 142 | 2/3/4 | 620 | 650 | 22 970 | 24 100 |
We will need to lay down the initial data for the length and width of the rooms, take into account the thickness of the floorboard and know how much the board fits in a cube - this is how the calculator "calculating the board to the floor" works. If the floor area is divided by the width of the board, then in this way we find out the number of linear meters, and how many boards are required per floor.
Once we know how many floorboards are in the cube and the total order, we can begin to calculate the monetary costs. Turning to the specialists of the company MBKR-LES, the client can be sure of the truthful and reliable calculation of the order. The floorboard calculation calculator is the tool that managers are fluent in, and the customer will only need to provide accurate initial indicators. Thus, you can find out the final cost of the order in a matter of minutes. Every lumber yard employee knows how many floorboards are in a cube, based on the thickness of the timber. Our professionalism, the quality of wood products and the calculator for calculating floorboards serve as a guarantee of order accuracy and customer savings.
The calculation of boards for the floor is an important point at the stage of repairing or building a house.
The board is the optimal material for the subfloor.
But before buying it, it is important to make a careful calculation, otherwise it may happen that too many units are purchased and a large amount of money is spent. Those who think that when there is a shortage of coverage it is always possible to buy the missing part of the material, you need to know that for a successful laying process they must be from the same lot. The most popular options for laying the floor are the following types of wood: wooden beams, unedged, edged and planed boards. In each case, the required amount of lumber is considered differently. This is due to the fact that each material has individual characteristics that must be taken into account during the calculation.
So, how do you still make the correct calculation of the amount of lumber?
Find out the size of square meters
In order to find out how many boards are enough to lay the floor, a ready-made rule will help you:
S = a × b = width of a wooden beam × running meters.
Finding out the number of boards it will take to cover the floor is quite easy. To do this, you need to use the following calculation: S \u003d a × b × number of lumber.
Or ready-made calculations:
Quantity=Sum of running meters/b
So, in order to successfully calculate how much lumber will take to cover, you will need the following:
- availability of ready-made formulas;
- calculator;
- information about segments a and b in the room;
- information about the thickness of the timber, its length and width;
- roulette;
- pencil and notepad.
Thus, anyone can carry out calculations. With the necessary formulas at hand and a minimal knowledge of mathematics, you can easily find out the square of the required lumber for lining the floor.
All parameters must be specified in mm
X - Floor width.
Y - floor length.
S1 - Lag width.
S2 - Log thickness.
S3 - Distance between lags.
O1 - The width of the floorboards.
O2 - The thickness of the floorboards.
O3 - Subfloor board width.
O4 - Board thickness.
R - Distance between boards.
Using the online calculator you can calculate:
- Volume of materials lag;
- Calculation of the lag for the floor: length, width and required quantity;
- Total floor area or quadrature;
- Number of rows and volume of floor covering;
- The number of sheets of wood, laminate or parquet;
- The volume between the lags for insulation;
- The amount of material for the subfloor.
Helpful information
Wooden flooring is made in three tiers, as shown in the figure above. At the bottom there are load-bearing logs on which rough boards will be laid, and on top there are finishing floorboards. Below we describe in detail the installation technology.
DIY wooden floor
As a rule, these works are carried out after the end of the heating season. Since at this time, the boards will not absorb excess moisture. The weather should be dry and sunny. It is best to use a non-planed board for rough flooring. At the same time, milled and dried boards with a longitudinal groove for ventilation are used for the finishing finishing layer. Boards with a figured edge for a mortise connection. As a rule, each such board is pre-treated with a decorative and protective composition.
During the installation process, you must follow the requirements:
- All logs must have good stability;
- Logs are laid strictly horizontally (except when the slope is provided for by the project);
- Ensure ventilation of the space under the floor;
- The moisture content of wood should not exceed 12%.
Marking and preparing the floor surface
First of all, we mark out the room, and designate the places that need to be planned in order to achieve a single level (taking into account the thickness of the seams and the height of the brick). For filling incompressible soil, fine crushed stone or sand is used, with a layer thickness of up to 5 centimeters.
After that, we tamp the entire surface. In those places where the logs will be located, we fill in the rubble and also tamp it into the ground.
Installation lag
As a log, you can use a wooden beam measuring 50x100 mm. According to your results of the program, we install the beam on an already compacted surface.
If you plan to increase this distance between the lags, then in this case you should use a larger section of the timber.
If the base of the subfloor has a concrete floor or slabs, then we install the logs directly on the concrete. In this case, you can use a smaller cross-section of the beam, since the bending load is almost completely eliminated. The rough flooring will act as a retainer for the second tier, and therefore a section of 50x50 is sufficient.
The distance between the lags will depend on the thickness of the material being covered. For example, 60 centimeters for a milling board, 40 centimeters for covering OSB or plywood.
When the logs are installed, we proceed to the waterproofing of the space under them with the help of roofing material or other modern material.
Rough layer
When the logs are laid, we begin to install the second level, namely the “draft boards”. To do this, all end joints should be performed directly in the middle of the lags. To fix the boards, we use wood screws of the desired size. You can either press the draft boards against each other or nail them at short intervals. In our case, this interval is defined by R .
Nails should be hammered towards each other at a slight angle, for a strong fixation.
If you are laying with milling boards, it is not enough to press them together by hand. For this, special stops and wedges or tightening devices are used.
To fix the finishing board, we use nails or wood screws.
Hats of fasteners should not be higher than the surface of the board. To do this, you need to go deeper by 2 millimeters. The recesses can be treated with a special putty before painting the floor.
If you are using screws instead of nails, you will need to drill holes and subsequently countersink each recess.
In the process of laying between the wall and the end of the log or the end boards, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 millimeters, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. This gap will serve as a compensator in the process of thermal expansion or moisture swelling.
The flooring is ready, now it can be covered with stain or protective varnish.
Hardwood flooring is the easiest and most inexpensive way to separate adjacent rooms in a house in terms of height. The main elements of a wooden floor are beams (timber or board) with boards sewn on them end to end.
If you decide to use this type of flooring in your home or compare its cost with another type, for example, reinforced concrete, then the calculator below will help you with this. With it, you can calculate the number of boards per floor, as well as find out their cost.
The calculator calculates the number of boards for two types of floors:
- Type 1 - a simple rectangular floor with or without an opening;
- Type 2 - overlay of any shape.
To perform an accurate calculation of floorboards, the calculator, created as an online service, has been around for many years. With it, you can calculate the amount of material that will be needed for the construction of the log and flooring.
The calculator is used to determine the volume of not only the floorboard, but also the material for the subfloor. As with the construction of other structures, the work of creating high-quality floors requires determining the exact amount of fasteners and insulation, end and other parts.
Features of the online calculator
You need to enter several parameters of the living space into the calculator The calculation of the floor using an online calculator is based on the dimensions indicated in millimeters. To perform all operations, you will need to clarify:
- floor length and width;
- length and thickness of the lag;
- the width and thickness of the boards;
- house parameters (width).
For each value, there are certain designations, among which there are numbers and letters that reflect:
- thickness and width of the draft boards of the subfloor;
- the number of jumpers between the lags and the step between them;
- distance between boards.
You can find out exactly how many boards you need on the floor by using one of the offered floor calculator programs. You will need competent high-quality drawings, in accordance with which they construct the flooring and equip the floor.
When choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account the features of their parameters. The most popular boards are recognized, the thickness of which reaches 4 cm.
Despite the fact that many designers recommend using products with a much higher parameter, often those boards that are no thicker than 2 cm are often enough.
They are more flexible and durable, and thanks to the high-quality and competent processing of the boards, they are characterized by increased resistance to moisture and temperature extremes.
Correct calculations will allow you to lay a solid screed It is these qualities that allow properly prepared materials to maintain their original shape, avoid cracking, swelling and other damage and deformation.
When do you need a calculator? 
The program will even help determine the optimal distance between the lags
Other data may be required, their indication will help the calculator determine the exact area of the room, choose the most suitable parameters of wood materials from the many existing proposals, the program is able to correctly set the optimal distance between the lags and the components of the structure.
Using the program, the consumer receives specific data on the required amount of not only lumber, but also the insulation required for arranging and creating insulation under a wooden deck. For more information about construction calculators, see this video:
Another feature of the program is the ability to specify some options for the layout of the future floor, allowing you to save and use the minimum amount of wood and insulation during construction work.
To work with the online calculator, there is no need to contact specialists and designers. It is enough to use the services of the Internet, indicating the requested data.
When carrying out construction work on the construction of a residential building, a specialist needs to perform a large number of various tasks, some of which are: drawing up and calculating the estimated cost before the final finishing of the premises of a residential building. It is mandatory to calculate the required amount of various building materials, which is quite difficult to do. Therefore, such knowledge - how many boards are in a cube, is very important for a specialist who is engaged in the construction of a residential building and wants to do the job as efficiently as possible and quickly in time.
Buyer's club: existing types of boardsTo calculate exactly how many pieces of a board are in a cube, you will need to know not only what exactly the cube of the board means, but it is worth understanding the important point that there are different types of boards and what is possible to purchase on the modern market to perform a variety of construction work. It should be noted that the cube of almost all materials, regardless of the type of material, is calculated in the same way, that is, according to one specific method. The types of boards have no influence on the calculation of the cubic capacity of this building material.
The non-grooved type of lumber is: timber, various edged boards, as well as unedged boards (they are an exception when calculating cubic capacity, because this process is a little different). Grooved types (which have special grooves for the joint) include: modern lining, blockhouse, flooring material, as well as imitation of natural timber. When you choose to buy a tongue-and-groove type of building material, then you need to pay attention to the fact that when making a calculation, only the working width of the board without a spike is used. If we talk about a blockhouse (imitation of a log), then when calculating the cubic capacity, only the thickness at its highest point is taken.
Any person, since his school days, understands how the cubic capacity is calculated. For this procedure, it is necessary to calculate quantities such as: length, width and height. A similar principle is also used to calculate the cubature of 1 board. It is recommended that when performing such calculations, convert all available values in meters. Cubic capacity of 1 board, which has a section of 150x20 mm. and a length of 6 m., is calculated as follows: 0.15 is multiplied by 0.02 and by 6, so that the cubic capacity of this board will be 0.018 cubic meters.
Apply the volume formula V= L*h*b (where L is the length, h is the height, b is the width).
L=6.0; h=0.02; b=0.15.
Thus, V \u003d 6.0 * 0.02 * 0.15 \u003d 0.018 m 3.
To determine how many boards are in one cube: 1 m 3 is divided by the cubic capacity (the volume of one board).
1 m 3 / V = N pcs.
1 m 3 / 0.018 m 3 \u003d 55.55 pcs.
Thus, the number of boards in one cube is 55.5 pieces.
It is quite easy to find out the cost of a certain type of board when its volume values \u200b\u200bare known: 0.018 is multiplied by the price of 1 cubic meter. When 1 cube of a certain type of board has, for example, a cost of 5500 rubles, then the cost will be 99 rubles. At this point in the calculation, there is some trick of sellers and managers in hardware stores, because the cubic capacity of the material is rounded up to some integer values.
Such rounding can lead to such a moment that the price of 1 board (when 1 cube costs 5500) will be completely different values. In addition to all this, it should be noted that for various boards for construction, which make up a nominal length of 6 meters, in fact, the length is 6.1 - 6.2 m, which is not taken into account when selling this building material. This also applies to the acquisition of a significant number of boards. This is quite clearly visible if, for example, a 150x20 mm board is used. The number of boards in a cube is a value of 55.5 pieces. But, in a cube, 55 pieces are considered, which, when calculating, will have a value of 0.99 cubic meters. In fact, it follows from this that the overpayment for 1 cubic meter of this popular building material can be 1% of the real price. For example, 5500 instead of 4995 rubles.
To calculate the cubature for a non-cut-off type of board, slightly different methods are used. When it comes to buying 1 board, then measuring its thickness, as well as the total length, is done in the same way as when choosing a cut building material. In this case, the width for calculations is taken as an average - between a large value and a small one.
For example, when at the end the width of the board is 25 cm, and at the other 20, then the average value will be approximately 22 centimeters. When it is necessary to calculate the volume of a significant number of such boards for construction, then it will be necessary to decompose them so that the wide one does not differ from the narrow one, more than 10 cm. The main length of this material in the unfolded stack should be approximately the same. After that, using an ordinary tape measure, an accurate measurement of the height of the entire stack of boards is made, the width is measured (approximately in the middle). The result obtained will then need to be multiplied by a special coefficient ranging from 0.07 to 0.09, in direct proportion to the existing air gap.
To calculate exactly what number of boards of a certain width, length in 1 cubic meter, various tables are used. Below are several such specialized tables, which indicate the cubature of the common and popular types of this material today. It is possible to calculate the volume of various boards having different sizes, for example, material for erecting a fence on your site, using the available formula, which is presented above.
Table of the number of edged boards in 1 cubic meter| twenty | |||
| Board 20x100x6000 | 0.012 m 3 | 83 pcs. | 50 m2 |
| Board 20x120x6000 | 0.0144 m 3 | 69 pcs. | 50 m2 |
| Board 20x150x6000 | 0.018 m 3 | 55 pcs. | 50 m2 |
| Board 20x180x6000 | 0.0216 m 3 | 46 pcs. | 50 m2 |
| Board 20x200x6000 | 0.024 m 3 | 41 pcs. | 50 m2 |
| Board 20x250x6000 | 0.03 m 3 | 33 pcs. | 50 m2 |
| twenty-five | |||
| Board 25x100x6000 | 0.015 m 3 | 67 pcs. | 40 m2 |
| Board 25x120x6000 | 0.018 m 3 | 55 pcs. | 40 m2 |
| Board 25x150x6000 | 0.0225 m 3 | 44 pcs. | 40 m2 |
| Board 25x180x6000 | 0.027 m 3 | 37 pcs. | 40 m2 |
| Board 25x200x6000 | 0.03 m 3 | 33 pcs. | 40 m2 |
| Board 25x250x6000 | 0.0375 m 3 | 26 pcs. | 40 m2 |
| Thirty | |||
| Board 30x100x6000 | 0.018 m 3 | 55 pcs. | 33 m2 |
| Board 30x120x6000 | 0.0216 m 3 | 46 pcs. | 33 m2 |
| Board 30x150x6000 | 0.027 m 3 | 37 pcs. | 33 m2 |
| Board 30x180x6000 | 0.0324 m 3 | 30 pcs. | 33 m2 |
| Board 30x200x6000 | 0.036 m 3 | 27 pcs. | 33 m2 |
| Board 30x250x6000 | 0.045 m 3 | 22 pcs. | 33 m2 |
| Thirty-two | |||
| Board 32x100x6000 | 0.0192 m 3 | 52 pcs. | 31 m2 |
| Board 32x120x6000 | 0.023 m 3 | 43 pcs. | 31 m2 |
| Board 32x150x6000 | 0.0288 m 3 | 34 pcs. | 31 m2 |
| Board 32x180x6000 | 0.0346 m 3 | 28 pcs. | 31 m2 |
| Board 32x200x6000 | 0.0384 m 3 | 26 pcs. | 31 m2 |
| Board 32x250x6000 | 0.048 m 3 | 20 pcs. | 31 m2 |
| Sorokovka | |||
| Board 40x100x6000 | 0.024 m 3 | 41 pcs. | 25 m2 |
| Board 40x120x6000 | 0.0288 m 3 | 34 pcs. | 25 m2 |
| Board 40x150x6000 | 0.036 m 3 | 27 pcs. | 25 m2 |
| Board 40x180x6000 | 0.0432 m 3 | 23 pcs. | 25 m2 |
| Board 40x200x6000 | 0.048 m 3 | 20 pcs. | 25 m2 |
| Board 40x250x6000 | 0.06 m 3 | 16 pcs. | 25 m2 |
| fifty | |||
| Board 50x100x6000 | 0.03 m 3 | 33 pcs. | 20 m2 |
| Board 50x120x6000 | 0.036 m 3 | 27 pcs. | 20 m2 |
| Board 50x150x6000 | 0.045 m 3 | 22 pcs. | 20 m2 |
| Board 50x180x6000 | 0.054 m 3 | 18 pcs. | 20 m2 |
| Board 50x200x6000 | 0.06 m 3 | 16 pcs. | 20 m2 |
| Board 50x250x6000 | 0.075 m 3 | 13 pcs. | 20 m2 |
| 100×100×6000 | 0.06 m 3 | 16 pcs. |
| 100×150×6000 | 0.09 m 3 | 11 pcs. |
| 150×150×6000 | 0.135 m 3 | 7 pcs. |
| 100×180×6000 | 0.108 m 3 | 9 pcs. |
| 150×180×6000 | 0.162 m 3 | 6 pcs. |
| 180×180×6000 | 0.1944 m 3 | 5 pieces. |
| 100×200×6000 | 0.12 m 3 | 8 pcs. |
| 150×200×6000 | 0.18 m 3 | 5.5 pcs. |
| 180×200×6000 | 0.216 m 3 | 4.5 pcs. |
| 200×200×6000 | 0.24 m 3 | 4 things. |
| 250×200×6000 | 0.3 m 3 | 3 pcs. |
A free calculator for calculating the number of boards and joists needed to lay a floor in a given area.
Calculator FeaturesThe calculator performs the following actions and calculations:
For preliminary calculations, it is enough to enter the length and width of the room in the special fields, and then click the "Calculate area" button:
Based on the data you entered, the script calculates the number and dimensions of boards (taking into account the choice of the minimum standard width for butt-laying and proportional thickness), as well as the load-bearing logs.
Based on the calculations, the calculator draws an approximate diagram of the future laying of the floor. In the diagram, callouts indicate the length and width of the room, as well as the recommended gap between the lags, which are indicated by a dotted line.
If you enter a larger number in the "Length" field than in the "Width" field, the values will be reversed, taking into account that the length is always the longest side of the room.
If you are not satisfied with the proposed automatically calculated parameters, you can always correct them using the input fields under the drawing:
Here it is possible to switch the direction of laying the floor to the transverse version, and there are also two sections with settings for the parameters of the boards and the log. To complete the calculations, you need to click the "Calculate" button under the input fields.
The results will open in a new browser window:
If you like our script, you can install it on your site *.
In the downloaded archive you will find two files: board.html And board.js. The first contains the complete code of the calculation form and the built-in processing script. In the second, only the script is rendered in case of its external connection.
If you do not plan to externally connect the script, you can simply copy the contents of board.html and paste it on the desired page of your site. Otherwise, you will need to copy only part of the code before the start of the script and uncomment the line for external connection:
P.S. It is allowed to freely copy and quote this article, provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.
Choosing the right floorboard is just as important as the design of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.
In the general case, the floor board can be any lumber fixed on the logs. Most often, this name is understood as a tongue-and-groove board. This is lumber that has three processed "finish" sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the sides, tongues are formed with a special machine: a groove on one side, a spike on the other. When laying, the spike is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. Moreover, even a slightly dry tongue-and-groove floor looks good.
A board with a tongue and groove can have a comb of various shapes. It is most convenient in laying if it has a conical shape. The cone easily enters even in the presence of a slight curvature of the boards. It is much more difficult to fight with a rectangular spike. If there are deviations, the board is not perfect, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.
Also, floor boards come with a quarter-shaped protrusion. This is when half the width of the board is removed on one side from below, on the other - from above. This type is even easier to install than a traditional tenon-groove board, while the floor looks just as good.
There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and aesthetics.
Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has a rectangular shape in cross section. It is placed close - end-to-end - and so fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when installing leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, you need to give preference to options with any kind of locks: when drying, cracks are not so noticeable.
In addition to the grooved board from the array, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are arranged in such a way that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it does change, it is many times less than massive. But due to the complexity of manufacturing such material, its prices are high. But the floor of the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.
Types of floorboard locks There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a deck board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on it. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But when building a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or font on the porch. Having laid a decking around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.
Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor Any kind of lumber is in the category "euro". There is a floor board, grooved or not, there is a terraced one. The whole difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But the best quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.
Types of wood for the floorAny wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and material possibilities. The purpose of the space can also play a role.
For baths, a coniferous board is traditionally placed on the floor. It is the most inexpensive, and its quality indicators are not bad. Coniferous species contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is that they are soft rocks and if there are a lot of people steaming, they are quickly erased. But if the bath is family, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.
If we talk specifically about the premises, then larch will behave better in “wet” conditions: it only becomes stronger from water. It is better to lay pine and spruce in a locker room or a rest room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.
They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to decay, and even more often darkens from water. There are still some nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.
It looks like a tongue-and-groove euro-board in profile When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the subfloor, unedged will go (be sure to remove the bark and process from bugs), for the finishing - edged, tongue-and-groove. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to different amounts of expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity, the floor may lead.
Floor board dimensionsThe minimum thickness of boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the lag. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber needed.
Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation step of the lag But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "back to back", after one or two grindings, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.
The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and the faster the installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.
When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with increasing humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that it becomes problematic to walk. Therefore, in the steam room or shower room, a narrow or medium-width board is used.
How many boards in one cubic meterHaving decided on the size of the floorboards, you need to calculate how much you need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meter.
There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some producers distinguish only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to focus on the spot.
The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots crumble and fall asleep, but we don't need it.
There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make both three and two-meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you do not need a long board, look for the right size: it will be cheaper.
Now about how to count the number of cube boards. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.
For example, we will lay a board 40 * 150 mm. Convert millimeters to meters:
40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m
We will take a standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036) we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.
Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the number of any board or beam. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and listed in the table (for six-meter lumber).
Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, marriage always occurs, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a “propeller”. And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not work in thickness, or there will be problems with the tongue and groove. In general, a few pieces should lie in reserve for a couple of years.
How to chooseFirst of all, you need to determine the humidity. The best option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will lead during drying, there will be many “skis” and “propellers”. Then they can only be used in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is the average humidity.
First of all, when buying, you need to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, you need to check this parameter when buying any sorted lumber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board on one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.
When buying tongue-and-groove boards, you also need to pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the tongue and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. You will either have to change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.
There is another mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (crest) is more profiled than the lower one. With such a defect, gaps are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this drawback. Only special equipment is required.
You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to dock them.
All these shortcomings are revealed quite simply. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the tenon and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the tenon. If everything is fine, take two boards and join them, as when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they are combined easily and without gaps. If the tests were successful, the grooved floor board can be taken: you will lay it quickly and easily.
How and what to fixA few years ago, there were no discrepancies: the floorboard was nailed to the joists with nails through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven deep into the chisel - this was so that nothing could be seen. Today you can do the same. And save at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the wooden floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added near the wall - as it will. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle without damaging the wood. And you try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they “sit” on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and hats often fly off on self-tapping screws, especially hardened ones.
In a thorn or in a groove?For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fixed through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in baths. If you take wood putty of the appropriate color, and mix some wood dust from your boards into it, then almost nothing will be visible even under light varnish.
If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a spike, then the angle is smaller - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more securely (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.
In any case, you first need to drill a hole for the cap with a larger diameter drill and a smaller one for the screw shaft. This operation, although time-consuming, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.
Hidden fastening technologyThe technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better, they are attracted with clamps so that there are no gaps anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed into the groove or spike at an angle or clogged. If the wood is dense, the screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).
With this method of fastening, neither nails nor screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board turns out to be attracted to the log. With changes in humidity, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other may rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it creaks more often. Although, it is never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few self-tapping screws into the face.
What to take self-tapping screwsWhat screws to use for flooring in the bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. This will make it safer to keep. And it’s better to take non-hot ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is simpler: you need ordinary ones, but not screw or corrugated ones - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.
It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the cap itself There is one secret inherited from the ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, but they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use. Such nails were used to nail the shingles to the roofs, and they did not rust for decades.
So: with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners, you need to decide on your own. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - one's own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add more of yours. But remember that in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out. So for the first time it is worth fixing on a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.
How the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate gaps, see the video.
A device for tightening floor boards can be made by hand according to the attached video instruction.