The storm sewer system in a private house is plastic. Do-it-yourself storm sewer

There is not a single private house that would not be exposed to atmospheric precipitation. After a good rain, a lot of moisture remains on the surface. It is especially difficult for those whose soil contains clay. The soil is constantly sour, there are a lot of puddles and dirt in the yard. This does not make the site attractive. To get rid of this problem, you will have to arrange storm sewers. It can be done with your own hands at the stage of construction of a country house.

But if your house is already standing, it doesn’t matter, a storm sewer system can be mounted around the house without any problems. We will talk about this in more detail in the article.

Protection from atmospheric precipitation due to storm sewers

We live in an area where there are no areas with no rainfall. We encounter them all year round, in the form of rain or snow. Such increased humidity not only harms the building, but also your growing crops. Standing water will not give them useful substances. And if there is also a cellar or basement in the country house, then the liquid can flood them without problems during a heavy downpour. How to get out of the situation?

Around the house you need to make a storm sewer. It serves to divert excess water to the right place or outside the building. In addition, if the structure is correctly mounted, it will not only collect liquid, but also clean it of sand and other impurities. At the outlet, the water is clean and does not harm the environment.

Components of the construction of storm sewers

Before proceeding with the installation of the system, it is important to find out the storm sewer device in a private house. Only then can everything be done correctly so that the sewerage system lasts a long time. All components of the storm sewer form a single system. Let's take a look at these elements.

Well

This is a special tank in which all waste water will be stored. It is important that it be large - the bigger the better. However, consider the amount of rainfall in your area. If it is small, then an average well is enough. The size of the roof slope and the size of the plot also affect the choice. The well can be made of concrete rings or plastic. The tank must have a bottom. This is the heart of the storm sewer.

Hatch over the well

You can choose a ring and a separate plastic, metal or rubber hatch. Then the well is dug in so that the cover is placed 15-20 cm lower than the ground level. To install the hatch, you will need to fill in or lay out the neck from the brick. But the result will please, because you will not see any differences on the lawn. When using a finished cover with a hatch, the soil is poured 4-5 cm. Then the lawn will be slightly different.

Drainage channels (storm water inlets)

This is one of the types of drainage channel. They look like gutters protected by bars. They are made of plastic, metal, composite or reinforced concrete. They are installed in places where the amount of precipitation is greatest, namely: along the paths for pedestrians and along the roof slopes. They are installed in the case when, when making a blind area, they did not lay pipes for draining. So you wash not to destroy the blind area.

Point storm water inlets

This is the second type of drainage channel. These are smaller containers that are installed in places where liquid accumulates: under drainpipes and in places with a low point. The body can be made of concrete or plastic. The use of concrete structures is rational in the construction of deep storm sewers. Rain inlets are stacked on top of each other to the desired height.

Note! There are already plastic products that can be adjusted to the required height.

Sand catchers

These are special devices designed to filter sand, in which it settles. Most often they use a plastic case, cheap and cheerful. They are mounted at a distance on long pipeline sections. All heavy inclusions remain in them without passing further through the system. They need to be cleaned from time to time.

Protective grilles

They prevent leaves, branches and other debris from entering the drain. To prevent water from lingering, it is better to take medium holes. Lattices can be cast iron, steel and aluminum alloys. The latter option is the most profitable, since steel products quickly rust, and cast iron is brittle with temperature changes.

Pipes

These are the "veins" of storm sewers. It is through them that water moves. The ideal option is pipes made of polyethylene for outdoor use. They are red in color. Due to the smooth walls, precipitation will not accumulate in them. In addition, their conductive capacity is significantly higher than that of other pipes of the same diameter. Sometimes cast-iron pipes are also used from asbestos. The diameter of the pipes depends on the amount of precipitation. The minimum indicator is 150 mm. The bigger, the better. Pipes are placed with a slope to the storm water inlet of 30 mm per 1 m (3%), and then towards the tank.

revision well

An important part that allows you to clean and maintain the pipeline. This is a small plastic or concrete well, which is installed in some sections of the pipeline where the system branches.

Here are all the components of a storm sewer for a country house. Thanks to her, your site will be dry and attractive.

What is storm sewer

Depending on the elements, storm sewers can be divided into several types:

1. Linear storm sewer.
2. Point storm sewer.
3. Mixed storm sewer.

As you already understood, we are talking about storm water inlets. The type of system depends on their choice. It differs both in device and purpose.

Linear storm sewer system

It is also called an open system. It is quite simple to make, and there is no doubt about its effectiveness. Such a system consists of a network of gutters, materials known to us. It is recommended to use either composite or plastic gutters. The price-quality ratio justifies itself. Water enters the channels from downpipes or paths, after which it is sent to a well or a common sewer system. From above everything is covered with a grate to protect against debris. In addition, the lattice serves as a decorative element.

Docking of individual gutters with each other is carried out using a sealant so that water does not penetrate into the connecting joints. If you want to make your yard drier and prettier, then this is a good option. The system has a large coverage, as it can collect water from the sidewalk, walkway, other areas and roof drains. In the photo you can see an example of a linear type storm.

Note! When installing the system, it is necessary to make a slope of each gutter so that water does not accumulate in it.

Point storm sewer system

It is also called a closed system. It got its name because the entire pipeline system is underground. The work process is as follows: water, flowing from roofs and other surfaces, enters the point storm water inlets with gratings, and then moves through the pipe system to the sewer or well. What the system looks like, you can see in this photo.

Note! The installation of underground communications is a complicated matter, therefore, it is necessary to equip the system only at the stage of developing a building project. Then it will be almost impossible to make it.

Mixed storm sewer system

This type of system is used to save personal money and effort. It is clear that the construction of an open system will take less time, effort and money than a closed stormwater system. A mixed sewer is something in between. It includes elements of both types.

Do-it-yourself storm sewer in a private house

Now that you know everything about the water drainage system, you can begin to describe the mounting process. We will go through the whole process step by step.

You can learn more about how you can arrange storm sewers for your home from this video.

Advantages of storm water drainage

1. The system both receives water flows and immediately displays them.
2. Completing materials for a storm sewer system are relatively inexpensive.
3. Easy to install sewer system.
4. Regular cleaning is done quickly and effectively.
5. There are practically no corners and intersections in the system, so it rarely becomes clogged.
6. Drainage of liquid is carried out along the shortest path.

If you are tired of constantly stepping into puddles and bringing dirt into the house, then a storm drainage device will solve all your problems.

A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn and no washed-out beds, healthy plants and perfectly smooth paths are the result of competent planning and installation of surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without impressive expenses, but it is realistic if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.

It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not filled up. While the construction is going on and there is equipment on the site, it is advisable to order the digging of trenches so as not to dig manually and not to carry dirt in the improved area. Protection against melt and rain water is:

Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house

• Surface linear storm drainage - collection and drainage of rainwater from the ground surface.

• Storm sewer - drainage of water flowing down drainpipes.

• Point drainage - drainage of local areas with problematic natural outflow.

Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system

Storm sewer network

The storm sewer network is equipped with an output to a common highway, if there is a sewer or city stormwater pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located at a great distance, the output of the local drainage system and storm sewer is organized in 2 ways: to the filtration field (a section covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or to a receiving tank (drainage well, reservoir, roadside ditch) . Draining from a private storm drain into the public domestic sewer system is prohibited.

System elements:

• Drainage gutters that are mounted along the edge of the roof slopes.
• Water pipes.
• Water intake tanks.

Receiving tank with outlet

• External sewer pipes that are connected to water intake tanks.

The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, the pipe is connected to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drain.

Drainage: features of a surface storm system

The drainage system of the surface of the site consists of point and linear branch branches connected into one network with an outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is equipped in the form of open channels, dug under a slope to the drain site. Marking is performed only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:

Drainage network: point catchers and storm trenches

• Along the perimeter of the site.

• On slopes and on sites in natural depressions.

Drainage branches on the slope

• Around the tracks.

Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area around the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, steps.

Point drainage outlets are dug in in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of downpipes (in areas where there is no storm sewer). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into the outlet pipe of the general surface network.

Integration: is it possible to combine storm water with a drainage network

Two separate networks: drainage and storm water

The optimal scheme for draining the site with the house is separate drainage and stormwater networks around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewers: during heavy rains or rapid snow melting, one pipe may not be able to cope and overflow through water inlets will occur.

It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug under the outlet from the point drainage and sewer rather than perforated pipes are used. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. It is impossible to lay a sealed sewer pipe in a channel with drainage backfill: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the usable volume of the ditch and create difficulties in cleaning the trench.

General outlet of point drainage and storm water to the filtration tunnel

Instead of trying to connect stormwater and linear drainage in one pipe, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if you cannot make a tie-in into a city highway. Rainwater can be used to irrigate or fill artificial reservoirs. Plastic tanks are installed as a receiver, or wells are made without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.

How to make storm drainage of the site and around a country house

Storm drainage is a surface system that does not require extensive earthworks and digging deep trenches, so you can do a simple wiring with your own hands. Before starting work, the places of mandatory arrangement of lines and water collection points are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is not enough during heavy rainfall and after the snow melts. It also requires the installation of a branched linear storm drainage area with clayey, moisture-saturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface.

For preliminary calculations of the amount of materials needed, it is worth drawing a diagram of the channels on the site plan.

Storm drain installation plan

Materials: what you need to install a storm drainage network

The list of materials that are needed for an independent device for storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:

• Trays (gutters) for installation around the foundation. Production materials - plastic, polymer concrete mix, concrete. Plastic channels are installed in areas where there is minimal physical impact on the gratings: along the edges of the lawn, in flower beds. Concrete gutters are strong and durable. Such a tray can withstand loads up to 25 tons. They are installed in places of increased loads: in yards where there is constant traffic, on access roads. Protective gratings are also chosen: metal and cast iron - for areas with heavy traffic, decorative plastic - for the lawn, garden.

• Connecting elements, spacers, bases. Auxiliary materials that the manufacturer recommends using when assembling channels. Be sure to install spacers inside the plastic trays.
• Sand traps. Separately, they buy products for installation in a linear system and for installation in storm water inlets.

On the walls - preparation for pipe removal

• Storm water inlets. Predominantly ready-made plastic containers are used. The outer walls are equipped with preparation for connection with a branch. Plastic receivers are easy to install on top of each other - you can assemble a container of any height.

Containers with basket and attachments

• Geotextile. Cloth for drainage filling channels not equipped with gutters.

Synthetic waterproof fabric

1. Crushed stone, sand. The crushed stone fraction is medium and large.
2. Mortar for pouring the base under the gutters and water inlets.
3. Drainage wells. Ready-made plastic or corrugated pipe of large diameter.

Factory PVC drainage wells

• Pipes for external sewerage with fittings.
• Construction tool. You will need draft boards for formwork in the channels, pegs and line for marking, shovels, picks, building level.

Installation of point water inlets

Point water inlets - stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.

The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating

The dimensions of the pit for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a recess, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontality of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.

Checking horizontal level

A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on a sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom with concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in a fresh solution (if necessary, fixed fixation).

A storm water inlet is installed on a concrete base so that the container lid is flush with the blind area. If the installation is carried out before laying the decorative coating, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.

Proper receiver installation

Side gaps are covered with rubble or poured with concrete. Before backfilling, a pipe outlet fitting is connected to the outlet. Install internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.

Arrangement of an open storm system around the foundation

Drainage of storm water along the perimeter of the building can be planned as a ring closed at the collection point, without revision wells. For cleaning, collapsible sand traps are provided. Rules for the device of a linear system:

• The indent from the edge of the foundation should be from 50 cm. Optimally, plan the channels along the edge of the tracks or blind area.

Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a margin for paving slabs

• The depth of the channels is determined by the height of the tray with a decorative cover with the addition of the height of the bulk layer - up to 40 cm.

• Width - up to 50 cm.

To prevent the installed gutters from shifting and deforming over time, you need to follow a few rules during earthworks. The bottom, the walls should be even and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding are necessarily made.

Plastic tray installed on the factory stand

So that the tray (especially plastic) does not deform, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.

Laying the gutter on the mortar

Gutters are installed in prepared trenches. The structures are interconnected with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and at the end of the line) are closed with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.

Sand trap in the drain line

The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are covered with rubble, or concreted. On long sections, sand traps are installed - in-depth trays with a mechanical filter. At the installation sites, outlet pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.

Budgetary storm drainage of the site: building open channels

It is also possible to drain rainwater from garden paths, flower beds and along the fence in an economical open way. Instead of ready-made trays, storm drainage filling channels are equipped. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth - from 50 cm, width - from 50 - 60 cm.

Instead of gutters - backfill trench

The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correct slope. For one meter - up to 3 cm height difference.

Pipe in crushed stone backfill

Geotextiles are laid on the sand layer. The edges are left free. Over the entire width of the trench, crushed stone is covered with a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Wrap the edges of the canvas with an overlap.

Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line

From above, the drainage clip is covered with decorative material: river pebbles, multi-colored chips, stone. Dry streams are an aesthetic and economical solution.

Drainage well and drain outlet

The drainage well is the connection point of the system. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on a crushed stone pillow. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates the soil.

Drainage well with filling bottom

If the installation of a filter well is not possible, then liquid is drained from the drainage tank into a common storm main or taken out of the site - into a natural reservoir, moat. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or a receiving tank dug in the area.

Video: installation of stormwater around the house

Stormwater and linear open drainage are only the surface part of the foundation protection. Along the perimeter of buildings at different depths, it is necessary to create 3-4 types of drainage systems. The choice of the method of organizing and technical parameters of networks depends on the composition of the soil, the depth of the foundation. Doing deep drainage networks on your own is not worth it. Calculations should be done by specialists, and the installation of trench branches is best done immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, a reservoir deep drainage system is being equipped. Not only the ability of the system to drain water in large quantities, but also the durability of the foundation depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

Any private house is constantly exposed to atmospheric precipitation. If, in addition, the soil on the site has clay impurities, then constantly muddy soil and puddles standing in the yard will not add aesthetics to your home. Storm sewers in a private house can cope with the problem of rainwater drainage. It is quite possible to build it yourself, at the beginning of building a house. Or lay it purposefully, near an already built house, if such work has not been carried out in due time.

The main purpose of storm water in a private house is to collect and then drain melt and rainwater from the house and from the site to special catchment devices, to water bodies, to a deep drainage system, outside the site or to the general sewer system. In addition to collecting, a well-mounted storm drain in a private house with its own hands is able to purify the water that has got into it from impurities and sand. The water leaving the system is clean enough and does not pollute the surrounding areas.

Being a device for surface drainage, the storm drain protects the buildings standing on the site from movement and destruction. If the soil on the site is constantly wet, then the impact on the foundation of multidirectional skew vectors will affect its strength. As a result of this, subsidence, tilting of the house, and the appearance of cracks on its walls are possible.

Main components of the system

The device of a storm sewer in a private house assumes the presence of the following elements in its composition:

• located on the surface or closed type channels located underground. Installed taking into account the slope towards the water collectors. Through them, water enters the water collectors or is discharged directly outside the site.
• storm water inlets. They are designed to collect water flowing from the roofs of buildings. The most suitable places for their installation are under downpipes. Rain inlets are made of plastic or polymer concrete in the form of rectangular containers of various sizes and are equipped with a basket for collecting various debris that enters with water. From them, water passes through a system of channels into water reservoirs;
• door pallets;
• manholes. They are designed for routine inspections and cleaning of channels and pipelines in case of clogging. As a rule, they are equipped at the junctions of the channels and at their intersections, since it is in these places that the risk of clogging of the channels is most likely;
• are used to collect solid particles in the water entering through the channels. Installed on surface storm drains;
• collector well designed to collect and then filter water into the soil.

Types of storm sewers

Stormwater in a private house can be linear, spot, and also mixed. Each of these types differs in its structure and purpose.

Linear (open type) sewerage

This system is simple to manufacture and quite effective. It is a network of surface metal, concrete or. Water enters these channels through downpipes, heading to the general sewer or special tanks. From above, the gutters are covered with gratings that protect them from debris, and also perform decorative functions. Separate gutters are joined together with a sealant in order to prevent the penetration of water between the joints.

Read also: and its characteristics.

Such a storm sewer in a country house or in a country house has a greater coverage, it collects water from paths, sidewalks, various sites, and not just from roofs.

The photo shows an example of an open-type storm sewer from drainage trays with grates

Tip: When laying an open-type storm sewer with your own hands, the slope of all gutters must be taken into account. Otherwise, despite the presence of surface channels, water will not drain through them, but will cover the entire area, not having time to go into the water collectors.

Point (closed type) sewerage

If the choice fell on a storm sewer scheme in a private house of a point type, then all water intake pipelines should be located underground. Water flowing down the pipes from the roofs enters the storm water inlets closed by gratings, and from them into underground channels. Through them, water is diverted to the places intended for it or simply drains outside the boundaries of the site.

Advice: Since the laying of underground communications presents the complexity of design and construction, its arrangement should be carried out only at the stages of developing projects for the house itself. Later it will be almost impossible to do such work.

Mixed sewer

This type of sewage is resorted to in cases where it is necessary to save on labor or financial costs. This system can include both open-type elements and components of a point sewer system.

Volume, Depth and Slope Calculation

If you want your house and site to be reliably protected from flooding, silting and dirty rainwater flows, it is necessary to correctly calculate and lay down storm sewers in the project. The main calculation of storm sewers is to ensure that all water entering the territory equipped with storm drains leaves without a trace in the places allotted to it and is regulated by SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Channeling Depth Calculation

If the cross section of underground pipelines does not exceed 0.5 m, then they are buried to a level of 30 cm. With large diameter channels, the depth of storm sewers in a private house increases up to 70 cm.

If it has already been laid on the site, then the storm sewer in a private house is located above this system.

Tip: It is recommended that all elements be buried to the level of soil freezing, but in practice they can be located closer to the surface, providing them with insulation by filling a layer of crushed stone and laying geotextiles. This will reduce the cost and labor intensity of earthworks.

Calculation of the volume of wastewater discharged from the site

To calculate the volume of waste, you must be guided by the following formula: Q=q20 x F x ¥, where:

• Q - the volume that must be diverted from the site;
• q20 is the amount of precipitation. These data can be obtained from the weather service or taken from the same SNiP 2.04.03-85;
• F is the area from which water will be discharged. With a point system, the projection of the roof area onto a horizontal plane is taken. In the case of linear system equipment, all areas involved in drainage are taken into account;
• ¥ is a coefficient that takes into account the coating material that the site is equipped with or the house is covered with:

- 0.4 - crushed stone or gravel;

- 0.85 - concrete;

- 0.95 - asphalt;

- 1 - roof.

Calculation of the required channel slope

A properly selected slope guarantees the free flow of water through pipelines under the influence of physical laws. The required slope of the storm sewer is determined depending on the diameter of the pipes used. If the pipes have a diameter of 20 cm, then a factor of 0.007 is taken into account. That is, 7 mm per linear meter of pipe. With a diameter of 15 cm, the coefficient will be 0.008.

The slope of the channels in an open system ranges from 0.003-0.005 (this is 3-5 mm). But the pipes connected to storm water inlets and storm wells should have a slope of 2 cm per linear meter.

Storm drain installation

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the house is equipped with water collection and drainage systems (downpipes, risers and gutters).

Sometimes the long-awaited rain for a summer resident at the height of the season can become a true natural disaster. Due to a prolonged summer downpour or during a spring flood, a large puddle may form on the site.

To avoid stagnant water, a collection system is needed, as well as its removal from the territory. But if you take care of the construction of a storm sewer with your own hands, then the cost of its construction will be negligible.

In our article, we will learn about the principle of atmospheric water removal, get acquainted with the components of the structure and the features of its maintenance. Following our advice, you will have no questions about organizing storm water. You also have the opportunity to purchase storm sewers and all necessary components at a discount on the website https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/livnevaya-kanalizatsiya/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation.

How to make a storm sewer?

It should be said right away that this is a rather specific design. In the water that is discharged through this system, there is both large and small debris. Therefore, in the storm sewer must be primary treatment.

The system itself may differ in design, the amount of water that it can accept and the duration of effective operation.

Point stormwater inlet.

Storm sewage is a system of underground water intakes, channels, sand traps, collector and manholes. It is used to collect and drain rainwater from the territory.

The device of channels and installation of storm water inlets.

The device of this type of sewerage will prevent flooding of the site during floods and during heavy rainfall, which is extremely important for the territory dominated by clay soils.

Protection of the foundation structure from weakening.

Storm sewage will protect the underground parts of structures from being washed away by water, and will also exclude subsidence of the bases as a result of the soil washed out under it.

Accessories for the assembly of stormwater.

Now, for the arrangement of storm sewers, a large number of components are produced, from which you can easily assemble a system of varying degrees of complexity.

Based on the structure of the system, there are three types of stormwater:

• Closed. This option is more complex. Here we are talking about underground pipes and storm water inlets. Ideally, plan the system in advance, and entrust the installation to a professional.

• Open. Differs in a simple design, convenience in execution, the favorable price.

• Mixed. This type is resorted to when there is not enough money to implement the second option or if it is necessary to cover a large area. It is something in between the first two.

Type 1 system is below zero point, which implies extensive excavation and related financial investment.

Storm sewage type 2 is a system of drainage trays that are built into the coating. Water flows through them to a specially designated place or merges into the garden.

Important! Surface drainage can fit perfectly into the landscape design of your site, and even become its decoration. This system is used in small spaces.

Basically, such a storm drain is equipped during the development of the site, since this is a simpler freezing option. The system is not buried too deep - up to 1 meter, but both in winter and in early spring it is not used in work.

To exclude its freezing, pipes must be located below the freezing point. With type 3 storm sewers, its elements can be partially located both in the soil and on top.

According to experts, the choice of such an expensive option as closed-type storm water should be justified. This decision is justified by the high requirements for the arrangement of the territory.

It is worth noting that the design of stormwater is always individual. It is unlikely that you will be able to find sites with identical conditions. They always differ, if not in relief, then in the properties of the soil, layout, and the number of outbuildings.

Storm drains are required both at the enterprise and in private properties. The main differences in their design are that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which is used for the needs of the enterprise.

The main components of a classic sewer

Levnevka is linear and point. The first option involves collecting liquid from surfaces that do not absorb moisture, such as a paved area and a roof. Subsequently, the effluents are sent to receiving tanks, and then enter the drainage system.

With a linear method of diverting effluents, water must be drained into trays located at the sites and paths. A simplified version of the storm drain consists of the following elements:

• a central pipe laid under a layer of earth, as well as a finishing coating and leading water to the extreme point of the circuit.

• trays - the most important part of the system that transports excess water to the sand traps (the latter largely determines how effective the drainage will be);

• a storm water inlet located at a low point in the yard or under a pipe to collect liquid;

• distributors and filters - invisible, but no less important components.

All elements of the system are equally important. If one of them fails, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.

Point type rainwater inlet.

Point storm water inlets are used to receive precipitation at one point. They are easier and cheaper to install, but require pipes to be laid underground to carry water to the sewer.

Connection to the drainage system.

Point storm water inlets are located so that they receive water that is collected from the roof of the drainage system. At such points, a storm drain is sometimes connected to a drain.

Point sewerage device.

The drainage of rainwater, which was collected by a point sewer, is carried out through a pipeline laid in the ground. That minimizes the priorities of the usual installation of storm water inlets.

Paving area with storm water.

The disadvantages of chiseled stormwater drainage are considered to be the possibility of subsidence of the soil with a change in the slope of the pipeline, the difficulty of determining a leak when it occurs, and the need to protect pipes by placing an equipped site.

Types of storm water inlets for sewerage

The main purpose of the storm water inlet is to collect water coming from the yard cover and pipes. Such an element first receives the volume of water that comes from downpipes. When choosing a storm water inlet, it is guided by such data as the average volume of precipitation, their intensity, the area and relief occupied by the storm sewer.

Stormwater with a linear water intake.

The technology of stormwater devices depends on the type of water intake device that was chosen for its construction.

System with point receivers of rainwater.

Such a system is a pipe laid in the ground.

Installation of storm sewer trays.

Storm sewers with water inlets are a network of channels closed with a special grating made of plastic, steel alloy or cast iron, depending on the required bearing capacity.

Special protective and decorative grille.

Both linear and point water inlets are covered with special protective and decorative gratings. They are required for the convenience and safety of moving around the site, as well as protecting the system from clogging with branches, foliage and dust.

You can buy a plastic or cast iron storm water inlet. The former are optimally used for heavy loads, while the latter are attracted by their low weight, moderate cost and ease of installation. A more budgetary option is to make a do-it-yourself storm water well for storm water at your dacha out of brick.

The walls of the pit are finished with bricks, leaving holes for the tuba, after which they are plastered from the inside. Ideally, leave a gap between the cover and the wall of soil and fill it with concrete. In this case, the bottom of the storm water inlet must be concreted.

Important! Not a single storm sewer can do without a storm water inlet. It also preserves the design of the foundation of the building, as well as the coating around it. If you decide to save on its installation, then water entering the foundation will lead to cracks and shrinkage on the walls of the building.

This important element is made of concrete rings. Then you can buy a bottom ring with a finished bottom, and you don't have to fill the slab. Sometimes factory storm water inlets are already sold with a siphon, a basket and a decorative grille.

Gutters made of composite materials or plastic, which are used in most cases for private construction, are produced in the form of a cube, each side of which is 30-40 cm. There are adapters from below and on all sides of the product for tie-in pipes.

Important! Grates for storm water inlets may have a different number, and they may differ in price. It is always necessary to build on the expected loads on them during operation.

To prevent the pipes from becoming clogged with debris entering through the cells of the grate, it is necessary to equip the storm water inlets with baskets. When they are filled, they are cleaned and removed, after which they are returned to their place.

The design of the factory storm water inlet has partitions that divide its internal space into compartments, thereby forming a water seal. As a result, the unpleasant smell does not penetrate outside.

The performance of a point storm water inlet depends not only on the volume, but also on the installation site itself. It should be located under a drain or where moisture often collects. If it is located under the pipe, then the jets must fall strictly into the center of the grate, otherwise part of the water will fall on the yard cover or foundation in the form of splashes.

What is the task of sand traps?

Melt and rain water in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If you do not use sand traps, dirt will settle in the sewer, and it will cease to cope with its tasks in full. Keep in mind that flushing the system will cost you dearly.

A sand trap is a chamber that is installed behind point receivers in places where fluid is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed so that water, falling on it, reduces the speed.

As a result, under the influence of the force of extension, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. The shape of the sand catcher is a vertical chamber or traps with a large number of chambers placed horizontally.

Sand trap built into the storm water inlet.

Point storm water inlets are equipped with devices for water filtration and sand retention. In fact, this system does not require additional sand trapping components.

Sand trap in combined systems.

In combined systems, sand traps are installed in linear sections and before outlet to the absorber/collector.

Sand trap for public storm water.

The volume and dimensions of the sand trap depends on the amount of water collected, as well as the class of storm sewers.

Trap device for household system.

Regardless of the size, all types of sand traps are equipped with sand collection devices that allow you to empty the device in an accessible and easy way.

Drainage channels: what is it?

If the blind area around the building has already been made, but there is no drain, the only way out of the situation is to use a drainage gutter, which is called linear storm water inlets. Channels made of plastic or concrete are laid outside the blind area parallel to the overhangs of the cover and paths with a slight slope.

Water enters the linear drainage channels from both roof drains and from the yard covered with slabs or asphalt. Such sewerage is capable of covering much more objects than a point one. When buying ready-made trays, you need to pay attention to such important characteristics as the limits of mechanical strength and the class of permissible load.

Important! At first glance, the tray is a simple product, but if you make the wrong calculation, the system will not be able to work fully. It is necessary to take into account the type of coverage, and the throughput of stormwater and the level of pollution of the discharged water.

The weakest products are marked A15. It means that their use is only permitted with a maximum permissible load of up to 1.5 tons. They are installed around the entire perimeter of the house, pedestrian and bicycle areas. Trays of class B125 can handle loads up to 12.5 tons without compromising their integrity. You don't have to worry about them collapsing under the weight of the car as they are designed to be installed in the garage area.

As for private construction, you should not buy powerful concrete gutters, plastic trays are suitable here. They have strength class A, B, C. Polypropylene or polyethylene is used as a material for their manufacture.

An important indicator when choosing trays is the hydraulic section, which is denoted by the abbreviation DN. The main thing is that it corresponds to the diameter of the pipes that are carried out to these components. For plastic gutters, the DN value varies from 70 to 300.

The standard tray is 1 meter long. Products are equipped with a locking system, with which the gutters can be lined up, make branches or attach them to pipes. A rational choice for a private house or summer cottage - models from DN100 to DN200.

Trays with different throughput.

Manufacturers of storm sewer kits offer a wide range of trays that differ in throughput and material used.

Drainage device made of steel parts.

For the construction of areas with pedestrian traffic, storm sewer components are made of galvanized steel. Although this is not the most durable option, it attracts with the simplicity of construction.

Gutters made of concrete.

Polymer sand and concrete products can last at least fifty years. They easily withstand the transport load, including the weight of cargo units. But due to the need to use special equipment in laying due to the large weight of the trays, they are not often used in the private sector.

Practical plastic version.

Trays made of special frost-resistant polypropylene are actively in demand in landscaping areas. They do not lose strength and do not deform even at temperatures - 40 +65 degrees. Great for self landscaping.

Features of pipe selection

According to SNiP, pipes made of asbestos, metal or plastic can be used for storm sewers. Usually, for a summer residence or a private house, the choice is stopped on plastic pipes. They are decorative, lightweight, do not corrode, their installation is extremely simple, but the mechanical strength of plastic, compared to metal, is relatively small.

After choosing the material, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the pipes.

The initial value is the largest volume of melt and rainwater discharged. This parameter is determined by the following formula:

Q=q20×F×Ψ

Here: Q– desired volume‚ q20- coefficient showing the intensity of precipitation over 20 seconds. (liters per second per 1 ha). F- the area of ​​​​the courtyard in ha, if you have a pitched roof, the area is calculated on a horizontal plane. Ψ - absorption coefficient.

Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, you can take its values ​​​​from the table.

Based on the calculated value and using the Lukin table, they find not only the slope and diameter of the system.

Most often, home storm sewers are equipped using pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. From this table you can take the optimal slope of the drains.

Having correctly selected the diameter of the storm drain, it will cope with the task even during periods of heavy rainfall. If flows from several gutters go into the tube, then they are all summed up. Experts for gutters with a diameter of 110 mm and pipes with the same diameter, as a rule, apply a slope of 20 mm/rm.

In the event that the pipe is connected to a storm water inlet, the slope is slightly increased to prevent fluid stagnation, but at the entrance to the sand trap, the slope is reduced. This slows down the flow of water, and suspended particles in large quantities settle to the bottom.

Water in this type of sewer drains by gravity, which occurs due to the slope of the drainage pipe created. There are no pressure pumps here, so it is not necessary to hire a team of specialists in a country courtyard or in a country house for stormwater drainage. The whole complex of works can be done independently.

Where is the collector and well needed?

As in any system that consists of underground pipes, there must be such an element as a well in the storm drain.

Its installation is appropriate under the following circumstances:

• if two or more streams converge;
• when it is necessary to radically change the height, slope or direction of the pipeline;
• if necessary, change to a larger pipe diameter.

Wells are also used at established intervals of straight sections of the system. In the event that the diameter of the well is not more than 150 cm, then the next one is at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm, the distance increases - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, then the interval increases even more - up to 70-75 m.

The well does not exceed 1 m in diameter. The deeper the well is, the larger its diameter will be.

Today, some owners still lay out wells from reinforced concrete rings or bricks in the old fashioned way. Others prefer a more advanced material - fiberglass or plastic. By design, wells are solid and collapsible.

In shape, they are made in the form of a cylinder with a hole at the top and a sealed bottom. Pipes are used to connect pipes. Several collected storm water inlets are also used as wells.

All fluid flows go to the collector after they are combined into a single whole. For this element, the choice of material is individual and depends on the capabilities and preferences of the owner.

To redirect the collected water into a gutter or for ground treatment, another element is included in the system - a collector. Sometimes a large plastic well is used as it. It is converted into a storage tank by hermetically closing the outlet pipes. In order to use water, a special submersible pump is used.

Large-section pipes are also used under the collector - plastic or reinforced concrete with all pipelines connected to them. Also on the construction market you can buy a ready-made container for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where melt and rain water is cleaned according to exactly the same principle as in septic tanks.

Collector well designed to redirect water.

If the site does not have facilities for disposing water into the ground, then stormwater is redirected to a gutter or public system off site.

Absorbing well, consisting of perforated rings.

If the size and conditions of the site allow, the collected rainwater is diverted to an absorbing well. When arranging a well in sandy loamy soils, the walls are assembled from special perforated rings, which increases the outflow rate.

Inexpensive option for a soaking well.

A filter well made from old tires is a great option that's almost free. At the same time, he does his job well.

Discharge of rainwater into a ditch.

It is much easier to collect and divert rainwater to the gutter, which does not need significant post-treatment.

How to install a storm sewer?

Stormwater is installed on the same principle as an ordinary sewer. In any case, the installation of a stormwater system is preceded by the calculation and selection of the necessary materials. Before entering the pipes, water collects on the roof of the house, so construction must begin from the top of the building.

To install gutters on the roof, you need to place the lower and upper points, between which the fishing line is stretched. Gutters are installed along such a route, while taking into account the slope. The direction for their installation depends on the location of the pipes for the drain.

To fix pipes and gutters, brackets are installed, fixing them with self-tapping screws. In order for the liquid to enter the drain, funnels are needed at the lower points. When collecting pipes and trays, sealant is applied to the joints. In some cases, there are special factory seals on the edges of the parts, then when they are joined, a reliable connection will be obtained.

The water collected in the gutters from the roof flows through vertical drains into the storm sewer. The complex of works on the arrangement of storm sewers, regardless of its complexity, includes the following steps:

1. Development of trench machinery or by hand.

For the device of such a sewer, it is necessary to develop a trench. The soil is dug by hand, and the asphalt can be destroyed with ordinary crowbars or special equipment.

1. Laying concrete-sand mortar at the bottom of the trench.

Fill the bottom of the trench with loose concrete to the depth of the tray so that the tray shelves are flush with the surface. Make a trench slope of 2-3 cm by 1 m. The slope must be directed towards the collector well.

1. Storm drain assembly.

Having beaten off the lines of storm water with a twine stretched between the pegs, we assemble a system of trays with a special protective and decorative grille. The channels must be leveled according to the design slope before the concrete begins to set.

1. Installation and connection of sand traps.

In the places indicated in the project, it is necessary to install sand traps, then connect them to the channels laid in the trench.

1. Formwork construction and further concrete pouring.

Build a formwork from a board along the side of the trench and pour the mortar between it and the tray laid in the trench.

1. Alignment of the system during pouring.

When filling the free space with concrete, we level the filled array. At the same time, we check the slope, and, if necessary, correct the position of the trays.

1. Paving the site with the surface you have chosen.

After a technological break, dismantle the formwork, level the site with gravel and sand, after which we bridge it with paving slabs or some other selected coating.

Spot drainage of melt and rain water

The first stage is the marking of the pipeline, which consists of receivers, channels and channels. Pegs are driven in at the locations of all components. For a complete picture, a cord must be laid between the pegs.

The next stage is digging a trench, as well as small recesses for storm water inlets. At the bottom you need to install a sand cushion.

If there is a threat of root germination at the pipeline laying sites, the bottom should be covered with geotextiles. The installation itself begins with the installation of collectors, wells. The next small elements in line are sand traps, storm water inlets and trays. All this is combined with pipes of the required diameter under the slope recommended by SNiP or a selected indicator from the table. When laying the pipeline, there should be no sagging.

Now you need to test the assembled structure. Water should be spilled on each section to assess the tightness of the joints. In this case, the amount of filling and released water should be approximately the same. At this stage, you can detect sagging (if the difference in fluid volumes at the inlet and outlet is different).

In the event that the tests do not reveal any problems, the system must be covered with soil and a sand-cement layer. In some cases, some parts of the stormwater are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first must be located on top of the second pipeline, but they can approach the same collector.

The combination of storm sewers with ordinary household sewers should not be allowed. Otherwise, it can cause an overload of the second and provoke many negative consequences.

Consider, for example, the construction of a storm sewer with point water inlets. It was built from simple sewer pipes. The reason for this is the stagnation of water on the surface, which is formed due to the lack of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of the soil.

1. Drainage system without storm sewer.

The arrangement of the drainage system on the site caused the need for a storm drain. The water collected by the drain was discharged to the ground and did not soak into the ground for quite a long time.

1. Development of a trench for the installation of storm sewers.

We dig trenches under the corners of the roof and drain risers, which should be perpendicular to the foundation, so as not to develop a wide working, and also to reduce the amount of land work.

1. Trench installation around the entire perimeter of the house.

At a distance of about 1 meter from the walls of the building, we dig a trench - it should be along the walls. Main pipes with a diameter of 160 mm will be laid in it, to which we will attach outlets from the drain, assembled from sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.

1. Laying sewer pipes for backfill.

To make a slope towards the flow of the collected water, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the trench with sand and compact it with the necessary slope. On the main sections, there will be 3 slopes per 1 meter, and on branch sections, approximately 10 cm each.

1. Installing a cap on a pipe.

Place temporary plugs on pipes located vertically, which in the future will be connected to downpipes. So you can protect the system from sand that gets in during work.

1. Backfilling of short trenches with taps.

We fall asleep with sewer sand a trench with storm sewers. Do not use "native" soil, because it is clay. So in part you will create conditions for the rapid melting of snow during melting.

1. Laying of main pipes with the required slope.

It is necessary to lay the main pipes so that a slope is formed in the direction of the movement of water to unload. As a result, all main sections should be inclined. According to the rules, it is necessary to install special rotary wells for cleaning on turns, but in this example they were not used.

1. Corner connection of a special outlet pipe.

If you cannot connect the storm sewer outlet at a right angle, connect it at an acute angle, but keep in mind that the angle must be directed towards the water outlet.

When the mains are laid with the correct slope, bends will be connected to them and the tightness of all connections will be observed (tightness is needed not to protect the contained soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system), you can connect the storm sewer to the pipe that leads to the absorbing well :

1. Changing the slope by adding sand under the pipes.

Check the slope of the unfilled sections of the trench with sand. If necessary, we correct the slope, for which we pour sand under the pipes and carefully tamp.

1. Assembling a node for connection to a discharge pipe.

To the pipe that receives water from all sections, you need to connect 2 main pipes and 1 corner outlet from the corner of the roof. Connect pipes with elbow fittings in series.

Prevention of storm sewers

Having made a storm sewer with your own hands, do not forget that it requires constant care. Prevention includes cleaning point storm water inlets and trays from debris that has settled in them.

If you neglect this procedure, the system will fail. The optimal solution is to use the system all year round.

Attention! Self-regulating cable can heat a large area. The basis of its design is a semiconductor matrix, which is located between two copper conductors. This cable will prevent any pipes from freezing when the temperature drops.

In winter, thaws occur, during which water from the drainage system enters the pipes and channels. Then it moves into the storm sewer, freezes there and turns into ice.

To prevent the formation of ice plugs in the storm sewer, a self-regulating cable is led into the storm water inlets located under the downspouts. So in the warmed-up system there will be no ice jams, and when they form, you can easily get rid of them.

findings

Despite the fact that storm sewers are a complex engineering system, even an inexperienced person in construction will be able to create it. Just follow all the steps and your storm sewer will serve you for many years.

Don't forget to leave comments in the block below. Be sure to tell us about your experience in the organization of storm sewers. Share your impressions and ask questions!

Greetings, friends!

Each owner of a private house inevitably faces the problem of discharging rain and melt water. And it's not just the inconvenience created by puddles. Excess water on the territory of a personal plot can lead to very unpleasant consequences - for example, to subsidence and soaking of the foundation of buildings. In addition, excessive soil moisture adversely affects plant growth, in particular, causing root rot and the development of diseases. The task of water disposal in the area adjacent to a private house is especially relevant for those areas where there is a lot of precipitation during the year.

The solution to the problem of diverting water from a personal plot is the creation of a storm sewer. You can order the construction of a drainage system from professionals. At the same time, if you have even a little experience in carrying out construction work, you can do the stormwater drainage yourself, thereby limiting your costs only to acquiring the necessary materials.

So what do you need to.

The main functions of the stormwater

The main purpose of storm sewers on the territory of a personal plot is to ensure high-quality soil drainage and prevent its waterlogging. Thus, there will be no flooding and subsidence of the foundation of the house and other buildings located on the site, as a result of which this or that building may sag or begin to go into the ground, and cracks may form on its walls. Excess water in the soil leads to the gradual destruction of the foundation, and therefore the removal of water will significantly increase the life of the building.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

In areas with clay soil, storm sewers simply cannot be dispensed with - such land does not pass water well, and therefore, after the snow melts and rains, puddles remain on its surface for a long time. The accumulation of water in the fertile soil layer leads to diseases of the root systems of plants, which can even cause the death of plantings.

The purpose of storm sewers is not only to drain the territory of the land, but also to clean the drained water from sand and other contaminants. The water that has passed through the drainage system has a relatively high level of purity, and therefore does not lead to pollution of water bodies and surrounding soils.

The main components of the drainage system

Drainage sewerage on a personal plot should include the following elements:

1. Drainage channels and gutters.
2. Trays for receiving water in front of the entrance doors.
3. Drainage funnels under downpipes.
4. Wells for inspection.
5. Sand catchers.
6. Collector well.

Water can be discharged both through open gutters and through closed underground channels. The main requirement for gutters and channels for drainage is to maintain a slope in the direction of the water collectors. The flow of water through the channels can be carried out not only in special water collectors. Water can simply be diverted beyond the boundaries of the territory of the personal plot.

Rainwater receivers are installed under downpipes that drain water from the roofs of buildings. They are made in the form of plastic or polymer concrete rectangular funnels with different volumes. A necessary element of such a receiver is a basket that catches various debris washed off the roofs with water. From such funnels, water enters the drainage open gutters or underground channels.

Inspection wells provide the possibility of inspecting the channels, maintaining them and cleaning them if necessary. Usually they are created where drainage channels connect or intersect - it is in such places that the likelihood of clogging is highest.

Sand traps trap solid particles that are contained in the water flowing down the drainage channels. Such sand traps are installed on open storm sewers.

Through the drain channels, water is diverted to a collector well, in which it is collected and filtered into the soil layers.

Do-it-yourself storm water - video

Types of storm sewers

On the territory of the personal plot, an open or closed type storm drain can be built. An open storm sewer system is also called linear. Most of all, it is suitable for those areas where there are paths and platforms, asphalted or having. Such a storm sewer is easy to install. However, it allows you to carry out.

Drainage elements in systems of this type are gutters made of concrete, metal or plastic, through which water flowing from downpipes, as well as from sidewalks, paths and platforms, is discharged into a common sewer pipe or into tanks designed to collect water. Such gutters are covered with gratings on top that trap various debris, and also act as a decorative element. To prevent water leakage, the joints of the gutters are covered with sealant.

Another type of drainage system is a closed or point stormwater system, characterized by an underground location of drainage pipelines. To collect water flowing down the drain tubes from the roofs, rainwater receivers are used, covered with grates on top. Pipelines located underground divert water into a collector well or outside the territory of the site.

In addition to these two types of drainage systems, mixed-type stormwater systems are also being built, combining components of both linear and closed storm sewers.

Calculation of the volume, depth and slope of a storm drain

The functionality of a storm drain will depend on how well it is designed. When designing a drainage system, it is necessary to correctly calculate its volume, depth and slope. The livneka must be designed so that it ensures the complete removal of water from the site.

When calculating the depth of the pipeline when designing a storm drain, the following rules are observed:

• when the cross section of underground pipes is not more than half a meter, the maximum value of their penetration should be 0.3 meters, thicker pipes are buried up to 0.7 meters;
• if there is a drainage system on the site, the level of storm water should be above the level of the drainage system.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

It is desirable that the pipeline is in the ground below the depth to which the soil freezes. But, in order to make pipe laying work less laborious, the depth can be reduced, however, in this case, the pipes will need to be insulated with a layer of crushed stone and a geotextile gasket.

The total volume of water drained from the site depends on the total amount of precipitation falling in the area and the total area involved in the diversion of water, in the case of an open system, or the area of ​​​​the roof projection onto the earth's surface, in the case of a closed system. The value of the volume of wastewater can be determined by the formula Q \u003d q20 * F * ¥, where Q is the volume of water removed, q20 is the volume of precipitation, F is the value of the area from which water is discharged, and ¥ is a coefficient depending on the coating material of the site.

Data on the amount of precipitation can be obtained from local meteorologists or in the relevant documentation.

The correct choice of the angle of inclination of the drainage channels ensures an effective outflow of water from the site under the influence of the laws of physics. The angle of inclination depends on the thickness of the system pipes. With a pipe diameter of 200 millimeters, the pipe should be lowered by 7 millimeters every meter of length. For 150 mm pipes for each meter of length, the slope should be 8 millimeters. If the pipe is connected to a water intake funnel or a storm well, then for each meter of it the slope should be 20 millimeters. For open gutters, the slope is 3 to 5 millimeters.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

The design and construction of underground pipelines for drainage should be carried out at the same time when the main buildings are being built on the site. After the construction of the buildings is completed, the creation of an underground storm sewer will become impossible.

Do-it-yourself storm sewer installation

Before starting the construction of a storm drain, it is necessary to make sure that the buildings have all the necessary components of a catchment and drainage system - gutters, risers and downpipes. The next step is to mark the territory in accordance with a pre-drawn plan for the drainage system. The further course of work depends on the type of system being built.

When building a closed system, the following steps are performed:

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

In those places where the pipes have bends, and where the length of the pipes exceeds 10 meters, it is desirable to create wells for inspection. Such wells should also be built at the junction of several pipelines.

During the construction of an open drainage system, trenches of the required depth are also dug with the required slope, only plastic gutters are laid on the sand cushion instead of pipes. Another way to create drainage channels is to fill dug trenches with concrete. To do this, they first need to install formwork. The joints must be sealed. Where the tray channels enter the water collection tank, sand traps must be installed. The installation of an open system is completed by checking for leaks, troubleshooting and closing the gutters with gratings.

When creating a storm sewer system, it is important to ensure that water is completely drained from the roof. This will provide the most effective protection of the infield from excess moisture.

If the storm drain is built correctly, then it will prevent all those problems that can occur due to waterlogging of the earth. The most important thing is that high-quality diversion will significantly increase the durability of buildings.

Care of the drainage system

Even the correct installation of the system does not guarantee its full functionality if the system is not properly maintained. It is necessary to periodically carry out a preventive inspection of the storm drain. If the storm sewer has ceased to cope with drainage, then it must be carefully examined to determine the cause of the problem.

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the roof and remove all the collected debris from the gutters, funnels. Next, you need to inspect the drainpipes and, if necessary, clean them.

If the measures taken did not give the expected result, then the problem should be sought in the storm sewer itself.

Inspection of an open storm drain is not difficult. To do this, simply remove the grilles from the gutters and remove the accumulated debris from there. After that, it is worth flushing the channels with water under pressure. After this procedure, the gratings are put in place.

If a closed-type storm drain is built on the site, then the task becomes more complicated. In some cases, the services of specialists are even required. First of all, you need to establish exactly where the sewer pipe is clogged. Then, high pressure water must be supplied to this pipe. The efficiency of such cleaning increases if the water supply is carried out alternately in the forward and reverse directions.

This method is applicable only for pipes whose thickness does not exceed 200 millimeters. Thicker pipes require the use of professional equipment.

Video - installation of a storm water drainage system

Well, for those who do not understand anything - watch the video

Conclusion

Well, that's all, friends.

Hopefully an article on how make a storm sewer in a private house will be useful to you!