The layout of the garden and vegetable garden. Garden layout: options

Being engaged in the arrangement of the land plot, it is necessary to approach its planning with all responsibility. This means not only determining the location of the future home, but also planning the future garden and vegetable garden.

The best option would be drawing up on paper. When drawing up a garden plan, it should be remembered that hearth trees, berry plants, vegetables, ornamental shrubs, and flowers will be grown on the site.

On the plan, it is better to immediately designate separate zones: decorative, fruit and berry and vegetable. A decorative plot should be located in close proximity to a residential building, and behind it you can arrange an orchard and a vegetable garden.

Choosing a site for an orchard

In order to choose the right place for laying the future orchard, to make the right selection of species and varieties of trees, it is necessary to take into account the natural conditions on the site:

1. The depth of groundwater should not exceed 1.5 m. Otherwise, to lower the groundwater level, you will have to dig special channels or lay drainage pipes. Trees planted in a site with high groundwater do not grow well, give a small yield, are often subject to fungal diseases and do not withstand winter frosts well.
2. The acidity of the soil will help determine the plants growing on the site. Those places where cereals and legumes, rose hips, mountain ash, maple, wild pear and apple trees, oak grow are well suited for laying a garden. If your site has a lot of buttercup, horsetail, sedge, sorrel, this means that the soil is acidic. High acidity can adversely affect the normal growth and development of fruit trees. It can be reduced by adding lime to the soil.
3. The garden must be protected from cold northern winds.
4. Study the terrain carefully. The south-western slopes are considered the best for the garden, and the northern ones are the most undesirable. In addition, you should not place the garden at the lowest point of the site, because it is there that cold air will accumulate, which can damage many plants.
5. Decide on the orientation of the garden relative to the cardinal points. Plantings should receive the maximum amount of solar heat and light and should not be in the shade of buildings or other plantings on the site.

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Planning of fruit and berry plantations

A well-planned orchard and berry garden is the key to providing good conditions for plant growth and abundant harvests. When making a plan, you should pay attention to the following points:

1. You need to choose the types of trees and shrubs taking into account the climatic zone, so it is best to buy seedlings in nurseries located in the same area. In such farms, tree varieties are grown that are zoned for this region.
2. In order to determine the number of seedlings of each variety, you need to study their yield.
3. To ensure cross-pollination, it is better to plan planting varieties with approximately the same ripening dates next to each other - this will ensure a good harvest.
4. To draw up an approximate planting scheme, you need to know what is the approximate life expectancy and how long is the period of productivity of the selected plants.
5. When arranging tree varieties, one should take into account the exactingness of a particular fruit tree for illumination. If we arrange the most common species in descending order of need for sunlight, we get the following row: apricots, cherries, pears, apple trees, cherries and plums.
6. When drawing up a plan for an orchard, you need to determine the distances between the trees necessary for their normal growth. For example, for trees on a seed rootstock (apple, cherry, pear), these distances are 5-8 m between rows and 4-5 m between trees in a row. For dwarf varieties, these distances are 3 m between rows and 2 m between apple trees in a row.
7. By choosing tall trees, the space between them can be temporarily filled with vegetable beds, berries or shrubs, the duration of which is about 10 years of productivity.

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Ornamental Garden Planning

Turning the space near your home into an ideal place to relax is the dream of many. In order to get such a desired result, doing landscaping on your own, you must definitely draw up a plan for the future garden. In doing so, you need to know:

1. First of all, determine the style in which the decorative garden will be designed.
2. Next, you should choose plants based on the size of the allotted area, lighting conditions, soil, etc. of course, personal preference.
3. Based on the specific conditions of this site, you need to choose one of 4 types of layout in order to achieve the desired result.
4. For lovers of simple, clear lines, rectangular motifs are perfect for planning a garden. They will create the impression of a classic, help to divide the territory into clear zones with different landscape details and plantings. Rectangular motifs are most appropriate to use on elongated long sections.
5. The second type of planning involves the use of round motifs: flower beds, lawns and lawns, playgrounds. The difficulty in implementing this layout lies in combining round elements into one composition. Such a plan is very well suited for square or rectangular plots.
6. A small area can be visually enlarged by using a diagonal layout for this. When drawing up a plan, it is necessary to apply a grid of diagonal lines to it, located at an angle of 45 degrees to the fence or wall of the house. In the future, ornamental shrubs and flower beds should be arranged parallel to these lines.
7. If you want to preserve the natural relief and existing plantations, you can use the free one. In this case, the main task is to arrange the plants that create a picturesque composition that has a finished look.
8. For greater decorativeness, you can use gazebos, arches, pergolas, garden sculptures, benches, fountains, artificial ponds and other elements.
9. Significantly increase the colorfulness of the landscaped area of ​​the flower bed and with properly selected perennials.
10. When drawing up a planting plan, it is necessary to pay attention to ensuring that they have the best possible lighting conditions and optimal planting density.

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garden planning

Most people would like to start at least a small garden on their site, so that they always have fresh herbs and vegetables on hand. For its device, it is better to draw up a plan that will help rationally organize space and save money and effort in the future, taking into account the following requirements:

1. The area allotted for growing vegetables should be well lit, as these crops are predominantly photophilous.
2. Vegetables need regular watering in hot weather. Therefore, it is better to immediately think about how you will do it - with the help of automatic watering, using a regular hose or by installing several water containers near the garden.
3. Having decided on the shape of the garden, you need to consider the location of the beds. A rectangular shape will be optimal, the width of the beds should be approximately 1.2 m, so that you can reach its middle with your hand.
4. Equally important are the paths between the beds. The width of a regular path should be at least 60 cm, which will make it possible to move freely along it with a garden wheelbarrow.
5. In order to avoid problems with the disposal of tops, leaves and cut grass, a compost pit or container can be provided near the garden.

In order to grow a garden of fruit trees on your site, you must not only decide on the place and plants, but also take into account the basic nuances, such as planting patterns, hole sizes, planting and caring for seedlings, which will be discussed in this article.

Garden layout

When a place was chosen for planting seedlings, it is important to decide on a scheme for planting them. It is recommended to plant trees according to four schemes, which have their own peculiarities in the arrangement of plants, make it possible to simplify the process of caring for seedlings and get a bountiful harvest.

The most common planting pattern is quadratic: it allows you to create comfortable conditions for caring for the garden. According to this scheme, trees are planted in even rows. The distance between trees depends on their type and variety.

Important! It is also necessary to take into account the landing pattern in order to rationally use the space, therefore it is better to arrange trees in a square plot in a quadratic pattern.

If dwarf varieties have been selected, the optimum distance between rows will be 4 m, 2.5 m should be left between trees. Classic species that were grafted on a wild rootstock should be planted at least 3.5 m apart in rows - 5 m. Tall and vigorous species should be at a distance of 4 m, 6 m is kept between rows.

The quadratic planting pattern is suitable for trees that are not demanding on lighting, normally tolerate partial shade created by adjacent rows. Usually apple trees of different varieties are planted this way, some varieties of pears.

Chess

The chess scheme is very similar to the quadratic one, only in each square between four trees one more tree is planted. The scheme is denser, therefore it is suitable for planting medium-sized plants with a small crown. If the garden is located on a slope, then a chess pattern will be the best option for planting trees to reduce soil erosion by precipitation.
The checkerboard planting method allows the trees to receive the maximum amount of light, therefore it is suitable for light-loving plants - plums, apricots, peaches, as well as for apple and pear trees. The distance between the trees should be 4 m, between the rows it is better to leave 5 m.

Planting trees in a triangular pattern is characterized by a denser arrangement of plants with a large crown. According to the triangular scheme, all trees will be evenly standing, which will allow planting 15% more plants than according to the quadratic scheme.

To find out the optimal distance between plants, you must be guided by the rule of doubling the indicator of the maximum width of the crown of an adult tree. For example, if the crown width is 4 m, then there should be a distance of at least 8 m between plants on all sides.
Thanks to the triangular planting pattern, plants can receive the maximum amount of light. Cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot, peach are suitable for planting with this scheme.

horizontal layout

The horizontal planting pattern is used in the case of trees located on a hilly area. Plants in this case are planted along horizontal lines, which makes it possible to reduce soil erosion processes and successfully grow seedlings on uneven areas. For fruit plantings, an elevated area is chosen, preferably in the south of the site. It is necessary to lay fruit trees in such a way that the maximum height of the trunks is directed to the north.
Thanks to this arrangement, the plants are provided with the greatest amount of light. The distance between them in this case should be at least 3 meters, between rows - at least 5. Any fruit trees are suitable for planting in a horizontal way.

garden planting

When the planting scheme has been determined, it is necessary to proceed with the selection and purchase of seedlings, which will then take root on the site.

Choice of fruit crops

In order for plants to bear fruit well, you need to be able to choose them correctly. Therefore, pay attention to the recommended growing region, soil and other conditions. There are special varieties that have been bred for each region: they easily tolerate frosty winters, different types of soil, and are less sensitive to adverse weather conditions. Consider the basic recommendations for planting trees that feel normal in mid-latitudes.

The most popular fruit plant in mid-latitudes is the apple tree. This culture is photophilous, so it is better to plant it in a well-lit area. An apple tree can grow on gray forest, soddy-podzolic soils, chernozems, which are distinguished by a light mechanical composition with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The tree does not tolerate excess moisture, so plant it on small hills, in areas with deep groundwater - at least 1.5 m deep.

Did you know? Apple orchards in the world cover 5 million hectares, and every third fruit tree in the world is an apple tree.

It is recommended to plant a pear on the south side of the site, as areas with harsh winters often cause trees to freeze. The site must be selected well protected from the wind, which is especially important in winter. Pear grows well on moist soils, groundwater should be no closer than 1 m to the soil surface. The ideal soil for pear is loamy, sandy loam or slightly podzolic.
Cherries prefer warmer regions with more sunshine and warmth. The seedling is not recommended to be planted in the lowlands, as the cherry has poor winter hardiness and often freezes. The territory must be chosen well-ventilated - in this way many tree diseases can be avoided. As for the soil, the cherry prefers fertile soils with a light mechanical composition, characterized by high air permeability. Cherries are planted on light and medium loams, which allows you to get the maximum yield.

Plum also prefers well-lit areas, so it is necessary to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, on moist clay soil with a thick fertile layer and a neutral reaction. Plum also grows normally in the northern regions, but subject to the basic recommendations for planting and caring for the plant. Apricots grow well in mid-latitudes and subtropics in the most illuminated areas with plenty of sunlight and heat. Apricot trees need to be well protected from northerly winds: they can be placed on slopes and in places that are inaccessible to cold air.
The tree is best planted in light, well-drained soils. Peaches are planted in southern regions with a lot of heat and sunlight because they are not resistant to severe frosts that damage fruit buds. Peaches grow well on light loams with high air permeability and drainage, a prerequisite is high-quality wind protection.

How to choose and buy seedlings

It is important not only to choose the right place for planting seedlings, but also the planting material itself, in order to ensure good survival of the tree and obtain consistently high yields in the future.

Important! It is preferable to buy seedlings in nurseries, avoiding markets and other dubious places.

First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the age of the tree: it is optimal to acquire planting material of two years of age, older trees have a low survival rate. Look carefully at the root system of seedlings - it should be healthy, contain, in addition to skeletal, numerous growing roots. Do not buy trees that have knots, thickenings, growths, nodules, nodules or other dubious formations on the roots.
The minimum number of skeletal roots for a two-year-old seedling is 3, it is preferable to choose seedlings that contain more than 3. Do not buy trees that have gross mechanical damage to the roots created during the process of improper digging. The height of a two-year-old seedling should be at least 1.5 meters; healthy trees contain three lateral branches that are evenly distributed along the trunk. The bark should be smooth, not have any scratches, cracks.

Did you know? There is an interesting method for determining the duration of storage of an excavated tree: it is necessary to pinch a tree branch between the thumb and forefinger, and if the seedling is fresh, then a slight coolness will come from the tree, and if the seedling is dry–you will feel warm.

Planting hole preparation

Depending on the type of fruit tree, the planting pit is prepared in different sizes and shapes, but for almost all trees, round pits with sheer walls are best suited, which can ensure the normal development of the root system. The size of a hole dug in cultivated soil with a deep fertile layer should be about 70 cm in diameter and 70 cm deep.

If a tree is planted in a territory being developed for the first time, the size of the pit will increase three times, since it will need to be filled with a sufficient amount of nutrient mixture, which in the future will serve as a reservoir of substances necessary for the normal development of a young seedling. Heavy clay and sandy soils involve digging a hole 1 m in diameter and 1 m deep. Experienced gardeners advise digging wider and shallower holes in clayey dense soil so that water does not stagnate in their lower layers - this will have a detrimental effect on plant roots.
If the planting will be done in the spring, then the pits must be dug in the autumn of the previous year, if the planting will be done in the fall, then the pit is dug in May-June. This is necessary so that the fertilizers that were applied to the soil are well mixed and ripened, that is, they form the necessary microbiological environment.

Tree planting rules

Depending on the type of fruit tree, there are rules for the size of the pit, planting time and other nuances that need to be considered:

1. apple trees they are often planted in the spring, if the seedling is not older than 2 years, so that over the summer the tree takes root, grows and survives wintering normally. Spring planting should take place in early May - late April, when the ground has already thawed and warmed up a little. If the seedling will be planted in the spring, then the pit can be prepared a week before planting. The size of the pit will depend on the soil: if it is quite fertile, then 60 cm in depth and diameter will be enough; if the soil is poor, then the depth should be at least 70 cm, and the diameter should be 80 cm. Seedlings of 3-4 years of age can be planted in autumn , since the already strong tree is not afraid of winter frosts. Planting is best done in early October, so that the roots have time to strengthen before winter. In autumn, it is recommended to plant young trees in the southern regions with fertile soil. A hole is dug the same size as in the case of planting in the spring, but it is prepared a month before planting.
   
2. pear can be planted both in spring and autumn. Spring planting (at the end of April) excludes the possibility of death of the tree from frost. It is better to prepare the pit in advance, in the fall of the previous year. During this time, the soil will shrink, and after planting the seedling, the root neck will not deepen much, which guarantees the normal survival of the plant. The hole should be about a meter wide and about 50 cm deep. If the soil is poor, then the hole is dug deeper and filled with several buckets of fertile soil. As in the case of an apple tree, a pear is planted in the southern regions in autumn, which allows the seedling to take root normally. In addition, a pear that was planted in the fall and survived the winter will be stronger and more resistant to future frosts. It is better to dig a hole in the spring, the size of the hole in depth is 50 cm, the diameter is 1 m, and planting is carried out in early October.
   
3. Apricot in the spring it is recommended to plant before the buds awaken on the seedling - in mid-April. The pit is prepared in autumn, its minimum size is 70 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter. The preparation of the pit for the autumn landing should be carried out in a month, or even two. A width of 1 m is required, and a depth of 80 cm. The optimal time for landing is the beginning of October.
   
4. Cherry often planted in spring (end of April), especially in the middle lane and northern regions, since over the summer the seedling grows, becomes stronger and normally tolerates wintering. The pit should be dug in advance, preferably in the fall, its depth should be at least 50 cm, diameter - 80 cm. In autumn, planting cherries is practiced only in the southern regions, sometimes in the middle lane. The optimal time for planting is the end of September, so that before the first frost hits, the tree gets stronger. The pit is prepared in the spring, the size is the same as in the case of landing in the spring.
   
5. Peach is a heat-loving plant, therefore, even in the southern regions, planting is carried out in the spring (end of April). The pit is prepared in advance, best of all in the fall, the size of the pit should be at least 70 cm deep and 1 m in diameter.
   
6. prefers spring planting in the middle lane and in the northern regions; in the southern regions, planting seedlings in the autumn is most often practiced. In spring, plums are planted at the end of April in a prepared hole. It is better to prepare the pit in the fall, add organic fertilizers to it, which will overheat over a sufficiently long period of time and create ideal conditions for a young seedling. The pit should be at least 60 cm deep and 70 cm wide, or more. In autumn, at the beginning of October, the plum is planted in a hole that was dug in the spring and fertilized with organic matter, the size of the hole is 60x70 cm.
   

Did you know?Unlike other fruit trees, plums cannot be found in nature in the wild. Plum was obtained by crossing blackthorn and cherry plum more than 2 thousand years ago.

How to care for newly planted trees

When the seedlings are planted in the soil, at first, special attention should be paid to regular watering. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and the regularity of rainfall. The minimum amount of water to be poured under one tree is 20 liters at a time. You need to water 1 time in 2-4 weeks. It is recommended to check the soil for moisture with a stick: if the surface of the soil has dried out by 20 cm, it's time to water the seedling.

The place around the seedling should be mulched - this is necessary in order to create a favorable environment for the root system, retain moisture in the summer, and slow down the growth of weed vegetation. Mulch is poured in a fairly thick layer (15 cm) at a distance of 1-2 meters from the trunk - sawdust, straw are used. The near-stem circle is regularly loosened and rid of weeds. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering, when it is compacted from the water. Loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, so as not to damage the young roots.
Be sure a young tree for the winter should be insulated so that it normally endures frosts. Warming the trunk will also help protect the bark from rodent raids, which gnaw it in winter, which leads to the death of the seedling. The procedure is carried out in early November, tying the lower part of the trunk with fir branches at least 70 cm in height. Whitewashing of trees is carried out 2 times a year - in autumn and spring. Autumn whitewashing is done on a sunny, not rainy day at the end of September, and spring whitewashing should be carried out during a period of slight frosts, when the first insects have not yet appeared.

Important!Very young seedlings, which still have a greenish, unformed bark, cannot be whitewashed, as this can lead to disruption of metabolic processes.

For whitewashing, a mixture of slaked lime is prepared - 2 kg, copper sulfate - 0.2 g, water - 10 liters. The bark is pre-prepared, clearing diseased areas, moss. You can whiten using a coloring brush. Whitewashing is carried out from the bottom of the trunk, gradually rising to the skeletal branches. Skeletal branches are whitened 30 cm from the branching point.

How to decorate a new garden

To make a garden with fruit trees even more beautiful, you can add additional decor elements, plant some plants and lay paths, so let's look at each item in more detail.

How to lay paths in the garden

The easiest way is to equip the path from the backfill with the base. To do this, they dig a ditch 10 cm deep, lay it out with geotextiles, and reinforce the sides with curb tape. Pebbles or crushed stone are poured into the prepared area. A more complex option is the construction of a durable coating in the form of solid flood paths.

The base of such a coating is concrete, on which decorative elements in the form of natural stone, paving slabs are laid. The path is recommended to be laid on a slight elevation so that it is 5 cm higher than the rest of the soil level, which will save it from the effects of rainwater and soil sediment.

What plants can be planted in the garden

Flowers are the most popular garden decoration. They are able to complement other plants and create a complete picture. Popular annual flowers for planting in the garden include marigolds, asters, cosmos, zinnias, and petunias. Among perennials, bells, daisies, carnations, forget-me-nots, pansies can be distinguished. Was this article helpful?

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The Earth for us is a natural wealth that fed our grandfathers and parents. Today, only a small percentage of people manage to interact with it directly - coming to summer cottages a couple of tens of kilometers away, living in rural settlements or their own private house within the city. All these options often converge on one thing - cultivation work, weed removal, planting of cultivated plants and (or) ... Sometimes, all these things are carried out on the "weekend", after working working days. But, after all, you also need to relax, go out to the summer terrace or just stand on the edge of the garden and contemplate how you were able to properly plan the garden on your site.

Of course, while the endless expanses of the snow cover are in front of you, you don’t really “plan”, but you have a warm blanket, a cozy chair, you have brewed delicious tea for yourself and you can start to decide from a theoretical point of view how you want to plan the garden.

If you decide, you can give each square meter of land such a look that cultivated plants will give up to 15% -20% more yield, the flowers will be slimmer, and the eye will only rejoice

Based on this, we offer you the following theses, which We will reveal during our “journey” in planning a “workspace”:

• We decide on the landing plan;
• We form the correct dimensions and position of the beds;
• Alternation of cultures - what is it and what is eaten with;
• Combined landing;
• Crop rotation and many other "topical" issues and their solutions.

Soil in the garden

We are sure that you, as an experienced person in terms of the annual choice of crops grown on your site, know that in order to plan them, you need to know which soil in the garden is more suitable for a particular variety or variety. And if earlier this was done “by eye”, now it is necessary to correctly determine the soil composition, which means that it is imperative to find out acidity (pH).

This is quite simple to do - take samples taken in the garden to a special laboratory. Be sure, for a more accurate composition, you need to take several samples from different parts of it. If you do not want to wait a long time, pay, or are just interested, and Can this test be done at home?, we answer - albeit not so accurate, but possible. To do this, take the same “samples”, mix them thoroughly to get a literally homogeneous mass and pour some into a jar or other container. Next, pour some vinegar and see the result. There will be 2 of them, and each will point to its designation:

• On a soil sample, when in contact with vinegar, bubbles appear, which will mean neutral pH;
• The vinegar will soak into the ground with no visible reaction, which will determine acidic pH soil.

Let's say right away that this is not the most accurate analysis, but it allows you to quickly and more clearly highlight this important issue.

Planning rules or how to plan a garden

In addition to the composition of the soil, plan a site the competent arrangement of those several beds that you are already “sorting out” in your imagination will help. Here are some rules to help you with this:

• The best option for the location of the garden is a flat area. In cases where the site is on a slope, choose the southern or southeastern part;
• Be sure to resolve the issue with. Innovation or automation is not important here - it's your choice. Both large and small gardens love the availability of water, which will be more convenient for you;
• We define the soil. Chernozem is best suited to plan a garden and get a rich harvest. But if heavy clay predominates in the soil, you will have to ennoble it and bring peat, sand, or black soil itself to the site;
• If you have not yet decided how to make beds correctly and where to start, start by laying out the site at a distance from the trees. They will not create a shadow, and at any time the ground will be warmed up by the sun's rays.

• From south to north beds are located if the site you own is in a lowland. Often, the earth is constantly damp, which means that it needs to be warmed up by the sun;
• West to East, beds are planned in case of dry soil. The aisles will be under the shade of the plants, which will retain moisture;
• With ground slope, it is better to break the beds across;
• South side suitable for planning a garden, and northern- a garden, if the site is not initially flat.

We create a landing plan

We agree that planning a garden is a painstaking work that will take a single day, but without it you will not make rich harvests, and this place will not become your rest.

The first thing to start with - Draw a plan of "possessions" on paper

The drawing should contain the most complete information: shape and size, information about the acidity of the soil, its orientation. Next, break the site into zones - a garden, a vegetable garden, a residential and economic zone. It will be great if you observe, and bring in, the magnitude of the shadow from buildings, trees. Now, in order to more clearly plan the garden, we make its “model”. To do this, cut out strips of paper and write the name of the plants you will be planting, as well as important fixtures such as watering centers,. Place them, "play" and find the right combination. For those who think that these actions “can be omitted”, let’s say that it’s better to prepare on paper than to find the right places in the garden itself in the spring. When all forms and places are determined, you can think about the varieties and varieties of crops that are needed in the garden.

Correct beds

If there are no proper beds in the garden, then rest will not work - everything will be painstaking work. Therefore, we will pay attention to the beds in order to correctly plan the garden.

• Lowering or lifting

There are several positions of the beds: deepened, raised, level with the ground. The level is determined by the availability of watering every day, natural conditions. For example, if you cannot water your beds every day, then it is better to deepen them, and vice versa.

• Dimensions

Forms can be completely different, the most important thing is easy access. If the length can be any, then the width for easy access should not be more than 1 meter. Optimum width - from 60 cm. Size design - according to your desire (brick, slate, etc. or not to design).

• Crop rotation for your crops

This is one of the most important issues that must be addressed not only in order to plan the garden, but also to get a rich harvest. The sequence of "returning to the same place" is about 4 years. Therefore, we advise you to divide the entire area into 4 sections, and follow all the necessary sequences, according to the crop rotation tables.

• Combined planting crops

Here, in order to correctly plan the site, it is worth knowing which cultures cannot get along side by side, and which ones will even help to grow, forming a “community”. For example, beans and, among agronomists, are called "Three Sisters" because their growth rates are perfectly matched. But, it is worth knowing that not all plants are so “friendly”. Dill and a knowledgeable person will never plant nearby. The same applies to beans and. In order to understand exactly which cultures help, and which ones “scam” each other, see the TABLE:

Culture compatibility table

Interesting tip: garlic can not only help a person to strengthen the immune system, but also allow you to take care of the "immune system" of plants. So, they will be much less sick. To do this, make a useful infusion according to the recipe: cut 5 garlic cloves and pour boiling water over them (1 liter), and then close the lid and let it infuse for about 20 minutes. Immediately after this, in order to prevent any diseases, it is possible to water indoor and garden plants with this infusion.

Planning and planting a garden in 6 acres

Planning a large garden is quite simple, because of the good dimensions. But here on 6 acres you can’t really clear up. But this is not a problem, especially if you take into account a few nuances:

• Garage position;

Do not arrange a garage in the depths of the cottage (house), because it will be necessary to allocate a road (entrance) for the car.

• The garden on the south side will cover the vegetable garden with shade for most of the day;
• Installation of the brazier is best done from the windward side;
• The non-standard shape of the flower beds will allow not only to plan the garden, but also visually expand it;
• A mini-garden located in the barbecue area or gazebos will decorate the perimeter and save space;

To do this, the block is knocked down from the boards, earth is poured and flowers or crops are planted. The bed can be fenced with wattle to limit the beds.

• Drainage systems in the lowlands are simply irreplaceable;

If your site is located on a slope, then the lower part will always contain excess moisture. It is the drainage systems, disguised as special terraces, that will visually and actually make the use of the site more convenient.

These tips will serve as a good lesson, both in planning a simple garden of small sizes, and large plots.

So, adhering to the above measures, you can make the right garden this spring right from a piece of paper, which will bear fruit to your delight.

We wish you to relax on your personal plot and not to believe people who say that work in the countryside turns into torture. Turn your site into a fairy tale right now.

The layout of the fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will depend on the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need (as the people say) to hurry slowly.

Preparatory work

When planning a land plot, it is necessary to allocate an open sunny place for a garden with a high standing of groundwater. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during the spring flood. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down in your diary a list of preparatory work.

• Clear the area of ​​old stumps, wild shrubs, stones and other debris.
• Plow the area deep or dig with the turnover of the formation.
• Water to encourage weeds to emerge. After seedlings, carry out deep cultivation and level the area.
• In parallel, give the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, its chemical composition. This is necessary for the subsequent care of the garden: fertilization, irrigation, and other agrotechnical measures.
• According to the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), apply the recommended doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the final autumn processing. Without such data, it is not advisable to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly to the planting pit (mineral fertilizers, humus or biohumus, slaked lime, biological products from pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of your garden diary, draw a diagram of the layout of the garden. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or behind, but the trees and bushes should be located from north to south for better illumination and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cottage.

• If the zoning is joint, then a garden is laid in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the cultures of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
• In the second zone, it is better to place berries. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shadow from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
• In the third zone, the actual orchard will be planted. From the neighbors, it should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m, so as not to obscure their site.

On the pages of the garden diary, write down the names and a brief description of fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram indicate their location on the plot area under the numbers.

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Berry layout

When breaking down the berry in the diagram, immediately consider the nature of the plants. So, blackcurrant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as a green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in a landscape decoration of a recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that berry growers are generally better placed along the boundaries of the site. In this case, part of the land is released for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their features (thorny, dense, etc.).

The density of planting berries is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and the formation of crops.

• Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between rows. Growing, raspberries occupy the aisles, the former aisles are freed from raspberries and become temporary paths. By pruning overgrowth, the culture is interchanged, returning after 2-4 years to its original place.
• Ioshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red through a meter. Large bushes will shade each other, thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to berries. Honeysuckle and shadberry, when used as a green hedge, are planted after 1.0-1.5 meters (and even thicker), and in the berry bush at a distance of up to 2 meters.

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and on the diagram plan in advance the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, there will be enough 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, ioshta, shadberry and honeysuckle. Leave some room for exotic newcomers to come into your line of sight over time. A properly planned berry tree grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place.

Orchard layout

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout of fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area under one tree. Do not thicken the landings. Trees will grow and begin to interfere, and even oppress each other. Planting pits should be in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave aisles at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today most farms are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main horticultural crops in the dacha economy. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, less damaged by frost.

For an average family, 1-2 trees of each type are enough. Early, middle and late varieties should be present in the garden in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. From garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of a medium cherry, plant 2 cherries. They form a crop after an early sweet cherry. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle. Enough 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties. 2-3 apple trees, which over time through grafting can be turned into 6-8 varieties of different ripening periods. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nuts separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this crop. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shade. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually grow into 18-20 varieties of all kinds.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is imperative to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with varieties and varieties for your region, up to the district, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact the experts. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of the fruits.

General Approaches to Planting a Garden

Lay the garden in the fall, that is, dig planting pits according to your scheme, prepare near each that fertilizer mixture that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Planting hole preparation

In the fall, you can only prepare a planting hole of approximate size, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, depending on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in the pit.

Soil preparation

Near each hole, mix the top layer of soil with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska to this mixture. Mix well.

Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting seedlings is best done in the spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. A young tree adapts to a new location during the warm spring-summer-autumn period.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings in farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No assurances from the seller will return the lost time.

Rules for planting seedlings

Soak the seedlings in a root or other growth stimulant 1-2 days before planting. Prepare a container of clay talker with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes may be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour some of the soil mixture into the hole with a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the pit. Dip the prepared seedling into a mash, insert it into the pit, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no creases upwards, and fill 2/3 of the pit with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, pour in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off the small roots that provide the plant with the soil.

Important nuances of landing

When planting, be sure to follow the correct depth of the root collar. When it is deepened, the tree can dry out for no reason in 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On light sandy loamy soils (especially in the south), it is better to deepen the root collar somewhat into the soil (8-10 cm), "hiding" it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, often on insufficiently moist soils.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root neck and graft and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root neck is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root neck and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 more buckets of water. Together with the soaking water, the seedling will also be pulled into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, top up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are purchased, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

How to determine the root neck

1. In a young seedling, it is good to wipe the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root with a wet cloth. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
2. In older seedlings (3-4 years old), we wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet rag and, after the wet zone has dried, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of the inconspicuous expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped color of the young subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition of one color to another is the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the landing pit.

What not to do when planting seedlings

• It is impossible to use semi-rotted manure when planting, only humus mixed with soil.
• You can not often water the seedlings with small norms of water. They only dry out the soil in the planting hole.
• You can not water the seedlings with cold water (from an artesian).
• It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, and especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
• After planting, it is impossible to mulch the near-trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, water accumulated in the mulch will cause the young bark to rot and the plant to die. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and the death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What to do when planting seedlings

• Whiten young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products from diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
• Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
• From hares and other rodents, protect the trunk with a mesh chain-link or spruce branches, deepening the latter into the soil by 5-10 cm.
• After each sufficiently large snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from being eaten by mice.

Nowadays, an increasing number of people are resorting to growing vegetables in and on summer cottages.

After all, only if we have received crops from our beds, we can have no doubts about the quality of the cultivated greens, root and vegetable crops.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

The layout of the orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it must be taken into account that the most successful places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze in detail the entire site, this will help to rationally place the objects of landscape style, it includes both completed constructions and plantings, as well as future ones.

Drawing in your mind a picture of your future site, you need to create a draft project and not miss a single subtlety. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the site, which is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose a flat or slightly sloping area for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden, located from the south, and in the absence of such an opportunity, you need to choose another, most importantly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is required to analyze the land, for trees in comfortable fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam).

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can adversely affect the root system of vegetation. You can make a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in the yard, study in detail the conditions for their growth to find out if they get along. Plan the number of ridges, think about whether you need someone's help or is it feasible to cope with the landings on your own.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank sheet of your gardener's diary, you need to sketch out the assumption of the garden. It can be front, side or back relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north side to the south for better lighting and mean three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after the other or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of ​​the site:

• First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this variation of zoning. In the first zone we lay a garden, its vegetation will not obscure the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
• In the next zone, it is more successful to place berries, their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow emanating from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
• In the part of the third order, we plant fruit. From the previous one, it should be in the interval of about 3 m, so that there is no threat of their shading.

In the diary, you can record the names and the main nature of the fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate their location in the garden with numbers.

Berry layout

When breaking up a berry bush on a plot, one should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Blackcurrant grows normally surrounded by the rest of the vegetation, and sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum, hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berries around the perimeter of the site. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence, or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the site with their location.

The thickening of the berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for the optimal development of vegetation, its strength to diseases and the formation of the crop:

• Raspberries are seated in tight rows, at intervals of half a meter from each other and at intervals of a meter and a half in rows. Raspberry vegetation, growing, fills the aisles, the former aisles are freed from overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the places of crops by cutting off the shoots, returning, after three years, to the former site of growth.
• Yoshta and black currant are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red at meter intervals. Large bushy vegetation will shade each other, the spines of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and shadberry, like a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, it can be even thicker, and in the berry bush at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of one or another berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to please the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and to close jars of fragrant jam for winter storage.

A well-planned berry plot grows normally and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants transferred to another territory. Pruning fruit trees and crown formation is also an important activity. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary, we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crops, allocating conditionally 4 sq. m. for each copy. from the common area. No need to thicken the landings. Plants will grow and become a hindrance to each other.

Let the landing pits be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental horticultural vegetation in the household plot.

In terms of dimensions, these species are smaller, and yields are equal to high cultivated vegetation. For these types and care is easier, they are resistant to ailments, the most resistant in cold weather. Early, middle and late varietal species should grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies all season and so that it is possible to process and store grown fruits for the winter.

Of the garden cultivated vegetation, two sweet cherries (early and late) are quite enough. Instead of its average varietal species, it is more successful to plant two cherries.

They give out crops after early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft a different species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots are enough, which are frost-resistant varietal species. Three apple trees, in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species of different ripening periods. It is necessary to save a place for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to please with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not to fall ill, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to diseases, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in the special literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact the experts. A garden filled with low-quality vegetation will add work and trouble, but will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful ridges and correctly place them in your garden

Formats

They can be all kinds, only the dimensions of the site can limit their size. Ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or curly. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it, in height they can be low or high.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Reasons:

• These beds are warm. On the lower layer of materials that are rapidly composted (branches, rags, paper, cardboard), a layer of materials is laid, they are composted more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste). Then it should be spilled with water, and covered with soil. In the process of decay, the ridge will begin to emit heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
• The sun's rays warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
• If you want to protect your upcoming crop from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the lower layer.
• Such ridges do not need to be dug. After all, they are not dug, but made.
• It is possible to harvest twice a season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce, before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are successful in processing, because care is simplified. And the length can not be limited. According to the Mitlider method, it is proposed to build completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners using this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. With its growth, accessibility to it remains especially comfortable, and the main thing is that it receives more solar energy, and even in the cloudy summer season, the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

In the ridges arranged by this species, you can plant a variety of crops: tomato, cucumber, pepper, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening, when the sun's rays illuminate the ridges from the sidewalls, they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to properly arrange the ridges in this version?

It is more successful to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is advised to place the ridges on a slope on the south side, and garden vegetation from the north direction.

layout

For her literacy, you need to consider:

• The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetables per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
• Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to fulfill the plan qualitatively.
• If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
• Plan the planting of crops so that the taller vegetation is on the north side of the site. So lower species will not grow in shading.

Common missteps of a novice gardener:

• Overly thickened plantings: it is necessary to provide seedlings with thinning in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not favorably affect its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and ailments. Gaps between rows and vegetation in a row (planting patterns) are provided for each of the crops separately.
• The lack of work on the elimination of weeds in time will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because weed grass, already resistant and actively growing, deprives a significant proportion of the nutritional components of the crop.
• Vegetable ridges in shading: negatively affects the quality of vegetation, some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components, growing in shading. Let the light on the ridges in the garden be present for at least 6 hours daily. In particular, vegetation uses the light of the afternoon. So, it’s lucky if at this time they are not in the shade.
• Overdose of dressings: overfed vegetable vegetation is much more prone to ailments. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the culture, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. It is imperative that strict adherence to the terms and norms of adding dressings is necessary, taking into account the preferences of the culture.
• Sowing seeds too early: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turned out to be cool and wet, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
• Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: warm-loving, capricious vegetables (