Homemade powerful windmill. Let's make a wind generator with our own hands

» Do-it-yourself simple home wind generator

Alternative energy produced through the “windmill” is a tempting idea that has captured a huge number of potential consumers of electricity. Well, electricians of various calibers trying to make a wind generator with their own hands can be understood. Cheap (practically free) energy has always been worth its weight in gold. Meanwhile, installing even the simplest home wind generator gives a real opportunity to get free current. But how to make a home wind generator with your own hands? How to make the wind energy system work? Let's try to reveal the curtain of mystery with the help of the experience of experienced electricians.

The topic of manufacturing and installing homemade wind generators is very widely represented on the Internet. However, most of the material is a banal description of the principles of obtaining electrical energy.

The theoretical method for the device (installation) of wind turbines has long been known and is quite understandable. But how things are practically in the domestic sector - a question that is far from being fully disclosed.

Most often, it is recommended to choose car generators or AC induction motors supplemented with neodymium magnets as a current source for home-made home wind generators.

The procedure for converting an asynchronous AC motor into a generator for a windmill. It consists in the manufacture of a “fur coat” of the rotor from neodymium magnets. Extremely complex and lengthy process

However, both options require significant refinement, often complex, expensive, and time-consuming.

It is much simpler and easier in every way to install electric motors like those that were produced before and are now produced by Ametek (example) and others.

For a home wind turbine, DC motors with a voltage of 30 - 100 volts are suitable. In generator mode, approximately 50% of the declared operating voltage can be obtained from them.

It should be noted: when operating in the generation mode, DC motors must be untwisted to a speed higher than the nominal one.

Moreover, each individual motor from a dozen identical copies can show completely different characteristics.

DC motor for home wind generator. The best option among the products manufactured by Ametek. Similar electric motors manufactured by other companies are also well suited.

Checking the efficiency of any similar motor is easy. It is enough to connect a conventional 12-volt incandescent car lamp to the electrical terminals and turn the motor shaft by hand. With good technical indicators of the electric motor, the lamp will definitely light up.

Wind generator in a home construction kit

• three blade propeller
• vane system,
• metal mast,
• battery charge controller.

It is desirable, but not necessary, to follow the sequence of production of all remaining parts of the wind generator. Sequence is the order that is necessary in any business to achieve effectiveness. Obviously: ready-made kits provide significant assistance in the construction of a power machine:

Making propeller blades

It seems quite easy and simple to manufacture the blades of the generator propeller from a plastic pipe with a diameter of 150-200 mm.

For the described design of a home wind generator, three blades were made (cut out). Material: 152mm plumbing pipe. The length of each blade is 610 mm.

Blades for the propeller of a home wind generator. Propeller elements are made of ordinary plumbing pipe, which is widely used in housing and communal services

The plumbing pipe is initially cut to size with a small margin for processing. Then the cut piece is cut along the axial line into four identical parts.

Each part is cut out according to a simple template for a working propeller blade. All cut edges must be carefully cleaned - polished for better aerodynamics.

The wind generator propeller elements are plastic blades, fixed on a pulley assembled from two separate disks. The pulley is mounted on the motor shaft and is attracted by a screw.

The part of the hub on which the blades are attached has a diameter of 127 mm. The other part is a gear, 85 mm in diameter. Both parts of the hub were not specially made.

The propeller blades of a home windmill fixed on the hub. Assembled from improvised parts and ready to be installed on a home wind generator, the simplest propeller

The metal disc and gear were found in old technical trash. But the disk was without a hole for the shaft, and the gear had a small diameter. By combining these parts into a single whole, it was possible to solve the problem of the ratio of mass and diameter.

After fixing the blades, it remains only to close the end of the hub with a plastic fairing (again, for aerodynamics).

Wind vane base

An ordinary wooden block (preferably hardwood) 600 mm long is suitable for a weather vane base. At one end of the bar, an electric motor is fixed with clamps, and a “tail” is mounted at the other.

Vane part of the installation, where the engine and tail of the windmill are installed. The motor is additionally fixed with clamps, the tail with overhead blocks

The tail section is made of sheet aluminum - it is a cut-out rectangular piece that is simply installed between the guide blocks and fastened with screws.

To improve the durability properties, it is recommended to additionally treat the wooden block with impregnation and varnish it on top.

On the lower plane of the bar, at a distance of 190 mm from the rear end of the bar, a tubular outlet is fixed through the support flange for connection with the mast.

Vane system of a home windmill (its lower part), made from simple affordable parts. Every household owner will find such details.

Not far from the flange fixing point, a hole d = 10-12 mm is drilled on the pipe wall for the cable outlet through the pipe from the wind turbine to the energy storage device.

Base and articulated mast

While the vane part of the home wind generator is already ready, the turn comes to the production of the supporting mast. It is quite enough to raise a home installation to a height of 5-7 meters. The metal pipe d=50 mm (outer d=57 mm) fits just right under the mast of this wind turbine project for the home.

The support plate for the lower part of the home windmill mast is made of thick plywood (20 mm). Pancake diameter 650 mm. Along the edges of the plywood pancake, 4 holes d = 12 mm were drilled evenly in a circle and with an indent of 25-30 mm.

The lower and upper parts that will fit between the mast. On the left, a support platform with a hinged mechanism for lifting / lowering the wind generator installed on the surface

These holes are designed for temporary (or permanent) pin fastening to the ground. For the strength of the installation, the plywood from below can be reinforced with a steel sheet.

A structure assembled from metal plumbing flanges, branch pipes, angles and a tee coupling is attached to the surface of the support plate.

Between the corners and the tee coupling, the threaded joint is not completely made. This is done on purpose to get the hinge effect. Thus, lifting or lowering the wind turbine can be carried out without difficulty at any time.

The stand for the mast of the windmill is equipped with four holes for additional fastening with pins to the ground. So, approximately, the state of the support element looks like when the mast is installed and raised

The tee coupling is connected by a central outlet to a piece of pipe, in the lower part of which a limiter for the mast pipe is installed. The mast pipe is put on a tubular piece of smaller diameter until it stops against the limiter.

Approximately in the same way, the upper part of the mast and the vane system of the windmill are connected. But there, as a limiter, bearings are installed inside the mast pipe.

Fastening the mast with braces is carried out as standard using conventional clamps, which are easy to do with your own hands from sheet metal

So, to assemble the entire mast system, without any fasteners, you just need to connect the lower and upper parts to the mast pipe. Then, thanks to the articulated device, raise the wind turbine and fix the mast with braces.

The convenience of the hinge system is obvious. For example, in case of bad weather, a wind generator can be quickly “laid” on the ground, preserved from destruction and just as quickly installed in working position.

Home wind generator and controller circuit

Control of voltages and currents taken from the generator of a home wind power plant and supplied to batteries is a must. Otherwise, the battery will quickly fail.

The reason is obvious: the instability of the charging cycle and violations of the charging parameters. Or it should be used, for example, which are not afraid of chaotic cycles, high voltages and currents.

Control functions are achieved by assembling and including a simple electronic circuit in the design of a home wind generator. Home wind turbines are usually equipped with relatively simple circuits.

Schematic diagram of the wind turbine battery charge controller, the assembly of which is described in this publication. Minimum electronic components and high reliability

The main purpose of the circuits is to control a relay that switches the outputs of a wind generator to a battery or to a ballast load. Switching is performed depending on the current voltage level at the battery terminals.

The controller circuit, traditional for home windmills, was also used in this case. The electronic board contains a small number of electronic components. The circuit is easy enough to solder with your own hands at home.

The principle of construction ensures that the batteries are charged until the limit voltage limit at the terminals is reached. The relay then switches the line to the installed ballast. The relay must be taken with a contact group for high currents, at least 40-60A.

Setting up the circuit involves adjusting the trimmers to set the appropriate voltages for the “A” and “B” control points. The optimal voltage values ​​​​at these points are: for "A" - 7.25 volts; for "B" - 5.9 volts.

If the circuit is configured for such parameters, the battery will be disconnected when the voltage at the terminals reaches 14.5 V and reconnected to the wind turbine line when the voltage at the terminals is 11.8 V.

Structural electrical diagram of a home windmill: A1 ... A3 - battery; B1 - fan; F1 - smoothing filter; L1 ... L3 - incandescent lamps (ballast); D1 ... D3 - powerful diodes

The wind generator circuit provides for the control of fan "3" (can be used to ventilate battery gases) and an alternative load "4" through power transistors of the IRF series.

The status of the outputs is indicated by red and green LEDs. The installation of manual control of the controller state through the buttons "1" and "2" is provided.

Features of connecting the system

Concluding the publication, one important feature should be noted. (assuming the turbine is already running) must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Connect the battery contacts to the battery terminals.
2. Connect the wind generator contacts to the relay terminals.

If this sequence is not followed, there is a high risk of controller failure.

Installation of a 4 kW wind generator - video guide

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After looking at foreign sites how ordinary people make wind turbines, I also wanted to do something similar. At that time, there was no special information on these windmills on the Russian Internet, only disseminated information about Hugh Pigot windmills and all sorts of scraps of information. But still, I wanted to make such a simple windmill for myself.

The case began with the search for neodymium magnets, but the prices in online stores were very high, and I did not find them in ordinary stores. But soon managed to order cheaper magnets. 25 round magnets 20 * 5mm in size cost only 1030 rubles. While the magnets were going, I set about making the blades.

Wooden blades for a wind turbine

For the blades, I purchased a spruce board 110 cm long, 120 * 35 mm, then I drew it in size and cut out blanks using a regular hacksaw.

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At first I removed the excess tree from the blades with an ordinary large knife with a wide blade, since I didn’t have a scraper.

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After the finished blades were sanded with sandpaper to a completely smooth state. Then the blades were soaked with drying oil three times.

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I also cut out circles from plywood for attaching the blades. I cut the blades at the butt at 120 degrees using a circular saw. Screw diameter 2m exactly.

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The parcel with magnets arrived, even a little earlier than I expected. I held such magnets in my hands for the first time, very powerful despite the fact that they are so small, they cannot be compared with ordinary ferrite ones. Here is the parcel itself, packed neatly, all the magnets are in place and intact.

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The rotor disks were made of iron 4 mm thick. First, two blanks were cut out, holes for the studs were drilled on the drilling machine, and then the central holes were cut out on the lathe and the edges were machined.

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To keep the magnets on the disks securely, I filled it with epoxy. For pouring from plywood, I made a mold, glued it with molar tape. I marked sectors for magnets on the disks and laid out the magnets alternating with poles. For the convenience of checking the poles, I used a compass needle. Here is the disc with magnets before pouring.

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Here are the finished rotor discs with magnets filled in.

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There are 9 coils in total.

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To fill the coils, the starota made a new form. First, I laid a piece of plastic film, then a piece of fiberglass on top, and already a form on the fiberglass, and in the form of a coil. Next, I prepared the resin and began to pour the stator.

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Epoxy resin was poured a little more than necessary, this was done specifically so that the second piece of fiberglass was soaked, which covered the stator from above. Then I pressed this case on top with a piece of plywood and put a load, left it like that until the resin hardens.

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Finished stator.

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The stator mount was cut out of the same 4 mm steel.

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Also, the turner turned me a rotary axis. Further, everything was welded together, the parts available were used, or rather lying around in scrap metal. Protection of the wind turbine from strong winds is made by the folding tail method.

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As all welding work was completed, the product was cleaned and prepared for painting.

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After assembly, one hundred magnets on the disks were found to be attracted to the studs that hold the stator, because of this, there is, as it were, sticking and a slight vibration is observed during rotation. Since I did not find non-magnetic studs, I had to lengthen the mounts so that the studs were further from the disks with magnets.

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The brush assembly was also made. The rings are made of epoxy resin, at first square blanks for the rings were poured, then I inserted them into a drill and turned them into a round shape. I cut strips from aluminum and glued them onto epoxy.

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He poured the foundation, made a mount for the mast from the connecting rods.

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After all the preparatory work, I made a trial lifting of the mast in order to immediately tighten all the extensions and check everything before lifting the wind generator.

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Before lifting, the wind generator was once again painted over.

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Preparing to lift the wind turbine.

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And finally, the wind generator is raised into the wind.

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As a result, the generator for generating electricity did not justify itself, on average it generates only 2-5 volts, and only occasionally at impulses up to 10 volts, current up to 1A. But still, the main goal of this work was achieved, the wind generator turned out to be cheap and made mainly from free materials at hand. Well, it looks good and pleases the eye. Photo and short description from here >>source

Getting electrical energy with the help of wind is becoming one of the latest fashion trends. A household wind generator, which belongs to the technical means of alternative electric power industry, has gained its popularity quite deservedly, since turning to it provides the owner with a number of advantages:

• wind energy refers to environmentally friendly means of generating electricity, no waste generation;
• easy to use due to its high reliability and low operating costs;
• can be assembled independently with minimal skills in the field of construction and electrics;
• its attractiveness will only increase over time due to the inevitable increase in tariffs of power supply companies.

Device and principle of operation

Any wind generator consists of several typical enlarged blocks. The unit necessarily contains a turbine that rotates under the action of an air flow, directly or most often through a step-up gearbox, transmits the generated torque to the shaft of an electric generator. The rotor rotates inside the stator based on neodymium magnets, as a result of which electrical energy is generated.

The design of a small power wind generator is shown in Figure 1.

Rice. 1. The design of a homemade wind generator

The electrical energy generated by the wind generator enters the intermediate storage, the functions of which are usually taken over by the battery. The current supplied by the battery feeds the inverter, from the output of which the normal 220-volt alternating voltage of the household frequency is removed.

The presence of a battery is mandatory, because. it allows you to smooth out fluctuations in the power taken from the turbine. A role in this is played by the fact that a household wind generator operates stably at wind speeds of 6 m/s and higher, while the average annual value of this parameter in most of Russia is about one and a half times lower.

The necessary switching, adjustments and other functions are implemented by the automation unit.

An appropriate level of operational reliability is achieved if the structure has reserves for the output power (usually 10 - 20%).

Types of windmills

The main difference between wind generators is the design of an air turbine, which can have a different design. Usually, the complete set of units according to the orientation of the turbine rotation shaft is divided into two main varieties: vertical and horizontal.

vertical

A distinctive feature and the main advantage of the vertical wind generator unit is the absence of strict requirements for the height of its installation, which greatly simplifies the choice of installation site, the installation process, and the subsequent maintenance of mechanically moving parts. The air turbine belongs to the low-speed variety of this technique, it can be performed as

• the simplest classical rotor with a minimum of three vertically oriented blades (an example of such a device is shown in Figure 2);
• double-row rotor, the presence of an internal row of adjustable blades provides it with increased efficiency)
• rotor Daria;
• Savonius rotor;
• helical rotor.

The more complex shape of the last three types of turbines provides them with a lower material consumption.

Figure 2. Rotary wind turbine of a vertical wind turbine

It features a minimum of moving parts, the efficiency of the installation depends little on the direction of the wind.

Horizontal

Wind generators with a horizontal orientation of the turbine shaft are driven by a propeller. The propeller can be two-, three- and multi-bladed. The blades of some propellers are sometimes given a rather complex shape to slightly increase the efficiency of the installation. An example of such a unit is shown in Figure 3.

Rice. 3. Horizontal multi-blade wind generator

Due to the large diameter of the propellers, they are usually mounted on a steel tubular or lattice mast at a height of up to several tens of meters. Examples of such masts are shown in Figure 4 and Figure 5. The downside of increasing the height of the installation is the reduction of turbulence in the air flow due to the weakening of the influence of the earth, i.e. increase in efficiency and generated power. Taking into account this feature, it is not recommended to use windmills of this design for cottage settlements due to the strong shielding effect of neighboring buildings.

Figure 4. Truss mast for installation of a horizontal wind turbine
Rice. 5. Mounting unit for tubular mast

To create a torque balance, the generator is closed with a shaft fairing so that it acts as a propeller counterweight. The additionally extended body design facilitates its “downstream” orientation.

Compared to a vertical device, it allows you to remove more power. The price for this is the difficulty in choosing the installation site, the complexity of installation, ongoing maintenance, as well as unpleasant acoustic noise during operation. In addition, due to the high height of the structure, horizontal wind generators necessarily require lightning protection.

Small wind turbines

Small or household wind turbines usually include units with a power of not more than 5 kW. In retail sales, units of various capacities and designs of domestic and foreign production are available, which allows you to choose the right device without overpaying.

Typically, units are supplied in a minimum kit, which:

• includes controller;
• does not contain a buffer battery;
• allows assembly of the unit at the installation site, provided there are no local restrictions.

Due to their technical complexity, the installation project for horizontal devices requires careful study, specialist advice may be required.

The cost of low-power models starts from several tens of thousands of rubles, it strongly depends on the output power.

Automation of wind farms

Modern electric wind turbines are equipped with an advanced automation system, which:

• significantly improves performance;
• provides equalization of the output power;
• makes operation safe.

A typical set of automation includes:

• wind wheel speed limiter at high wind speeds;
• wheel alignment “downstream” (important for horizontal windmills);
• short circuit protection;
• shutdown in case of equipment failures, hurricane winds, exceeding the threshold level of vibration.

Models of the middle and senior classes necessarily support remote control and diagnostics. Some of the units additionally control the direction and strength of the air flow to maximize the output power by choosing the appropriate installation angle of the entire device and turbine blades.

braking system

The braking system prevents mechanical destruction of the unit when the wind speed is too high. The essence of this system is that the automation closes the electrical circuits of the magnetic system of the generator, which leads to the appearance of a powerful braking force.

Additionally, the control system operation algorithm provides for a complete shutdown of the air turbine during hurricane-force winds. The stop threshold can be adjusted by the user, typical factory settings of this parameter assume the activation of the stop mode at a speed of 80 km/h.

Manufacturers

Domestic industry has launched serial production of a wide range of domestic wind turbines. Their parameters are shown in the table:

Model	Manufacturer	Type	Power	Note
VG 0.25	Vetro Svet, Russia	G	250 W	—
VEU-3(4)	SKB Iskra, Russia	AT	3 kW	4-blade model
Series L	Wind power, Russia	AT	0.8 - 10 kW	—
RKraft	Germany	G	0.5 - 5 kW	—
Wind Generator M300	China	AT	100 - 270 W	6-bladed rotor with a diameter of 1 m, weight 11 kg, does not have a controller
Condor Home	EDS Group, Russia	G	500 W	3-bladed fiberglass rotor Maximum wind speed 25 m/s Weight 56 ​​kg

Note: D - horizontal, V - vertical

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of wind farms is their autonomy.

The main technical disadvantages of this type of equipment are dependence on the weather (in addition to wind strength, snow and rain also affect) and relatively low power, the value of which on average does not exceed several hundred watts. Require the mandatory use of an intermediate buffer battery, which requires replacement after several years of service.

When compared with diesel generators, they are inferior to them in terms of the duration of operation, but they do not require the delivery of fuel and the implementation of complex and expensive fire safety measures for its storage.

Which in the middle latitudes actually work for a maximum of five months, is noticeably superior to those that function all year round.

At existing electricity tariffs, they do not provide a significant gain in terms of the reduced costs, but they do not turn out to be unprofitable.

Manufacturers of wind farms pay great attention to their external design. So the presence of this unit in a suburban area not only indicates the “technical advancement” of its owner, but can also become an important design element and a visual demonstration of concern for the environment.

The aesthetic parameters can be judged from Figure 6.

Rice. 6. Horizontal wind turbine Condor Home of domestic production

Conclusion.

Wind power plants can be considered a full-fledged alternative source of electrical energy. Taking into account the typical climatic conditions of most areas of our country, it makes sense to combine small wind turbines into a single system with a solar battery and a diesel generator. In this case, they may well become an effective autonomous auxiliary means of generating electricity in a country house or a country house.

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In the modern world, more and more money has to be paid for utilities, which include the supply of electricity. Therefore, owners of private houses are increasingly thinking about how to make a 220V wind generator with their own hands, which can provide uninterrupted electricity to the whole house.

Industrial wind generator

All wind turbines consist of a blade, a turbine rotor, a generator, a generator shaft, an inverter, and a battery. It is conditionally possible to divide all models into industrial and home ones, while the principle of operation will be the same for them.

Rotating, the rotor creates an alternating current with three phases, which goes through the controller to the battery, and then, in the inverter, it is converted into a stable one for supply to electrical appliances.

The rotation of the blades occurs due to the physical impact with the help of an impulse or lifting force, as a result of which the flywheel comes into action, as well as under the influence of a braking force. In the process, the flywheel begins to spin, and the rotor creates a magnetic field on the fixed part of the generator, after which the current is reproduced.

In general, wind turbines are divided into vertical and horizontal. What is connected with the location of the axis of rotation.

Vertical option

When planning to create a 220V windmill with your own hands, first of all, think over the vertical options. Among them are:

• Savonius rotor. The simplest, which appeared back in 1924. It is based on two half-cylinders on a vertical axis. The disadvantages include low use of wind energy.

• With Darrieus rotor. Appeared in 1931, the spin-up occurs due to the difference in the resistance of the aerodynamic hump and the tape pocket, so the disadvantages include a small torque, as well as the need to mount an odd number of blades.

A kind of wind generator Daria

• The blades have a twisted shape, reducing the load on the bearing, increasing the service life. The disadvantage is the high price.

A homemade version will come out cheaper if it is properly thought out and mounted.

Related article:

UZO: what is it. Have you ever heard the acronym RCD? You will find out what it is by reading the review to the end. In short, I would like to add that this device is able to protect housing and all its inhabitants from emergencies associated with electricity.

Horizontal Models

Horizontal models are divided by the number of blades. Their efficiency is higher, but there is a need to install a weather vane to constantly search for the direction of the wind. All models have high rotational speeds; instead of blades, they mount a counterweight, which affects air resistance.

Multi-blade models can have up to 50 high-inertia blades. They can be used to operate water pumps.

How to make a 220V do-it-yourself wind generator

To provide a private house with a constant flow of electricity at an average wind speed of 4 m / s, it is enough:

• 0.15-0.2 kW, which go to basic needs;
• 1-5 kW for electrical equipment;
• 20 kW for the whole house with heating.

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the wind does not always blow, therefore, with your own hands, a windmill for the house should be provided with a battery with a charge controller, as well as an inverter to which the devices are connected.

For any model of a homemade windmill, the main elements will be required:

• rotor - the part that rotates from the wind;
• blades, usually they are mounted from wood or light metal;
• a generator that will convert wind power into electricity;
• a tail that helps determine the direction of air flow (for a horizontal version);
• horizontal rail to hold the generator, tail and turbine;
• match;
• connecting wire and shield.

In the complete set of the shield there will be a battery, a controller and an inverter. Consider two options for how to build a wind generator with your own hands.

Related article:

You are familiar with the problem of power outages, which manifests itself in the flashing of light bulbs. In the article we will talk about how to choose the right 220v voltage stabilizer for your home in order to forget about this problem once and for all?

Features of assembling a wind generator from a washing machine with your own hands

Consider how to make a 220V wind generator with your own hands using an old-style engine.

Table 1. Detailed instructions for a wind generator from a washing machine with a photo

What needs to be done	Photo example
You should buy neodymium magnets that are mounted in recesses on the motor rotor. The notches themselves are made on a lathe, use the diagram for proper placement.
Glue the magnets with superglue into the prepared recesses. Then, they should be wrapped with paper, and the rest of the space should be filled with epoxy.
Next, we prepare the axis, which is better to order from a turner. Inside the hollow structure there should be room for the cable and a hole for its entry. We mount the holder from an iron rod. For it, we use a grinder, with which we cut off two tubes (fix the generator on them), and weld on the other end.
We turn to the blades, which can be made from 16 cm pipes for external sewage. In this case, use a jigsaw.
It remains to assemble the wind generator, securing all the elements. To begin with, we attach the generator, blades, rotor and tail to the carrier rail. Do not forget to close the generator with a casing.
The power plant should be mounted using a hinge mechanism, and the mast is mounted in a concrete base with 4 bolts.
Route the wire to the switchboard.
Connect all elements and perform a performance test.

To make it easier to understand the whole sequence of actions when assembling a wind farm with your own hands from an old one, watch the video:

Features of assembling a vertical wind generator from a car generator with your own hands

When "homemade" people think about how to make 220V wind turbines with their own hands, they most often use car generators as a basis. It is easy to assemble, and for work you will need:

• generator 12V from car;
• battery;
• converter from 12 to 220 W with a power of 1.2 kW;
• barrel or bucket aluminum or steel for the blades;
• control lamp from the car;
• switch;
• voltmeter;
• copper wires with a cross section of more than 2 mm;
• clamp for fastening.

To assemble a vertical wind generator with your own hands, you will need a tape measure and a pencil, a set of keys, an electric drill and a grinder, as well as metal scissors. Detailed installation instructions are given below.

Table 2. Assembly of a vertical wind generator from a car generator

Action	Image
The prepared metal container must be marked and cut into 4 equal parts, but this must not be done completely. In each part, drill holes for the bolts, which should be symmetrical.
The blades that are not completely cut are slightly bent, the rotation speed directly depends on this process, so decide in advance in which direction the equipment should rotate.
It is necessary to fix the blades on the pulley, and install the generator on the mast using clamps, and also assemble the wiring according to the prepared scheme.
The main thing is to correctly connect the wires to which the battery is connected in the shield, as well as the converter.

To make it easier for you to navigate, watch the video on the option of assembling a wind generator from a car generator with your own hands.

Manufacturing technology of a home wind farm (simple windmill).

home manufacturing technology wind farms (simple windmill) . The need for electricity appears as soon as we become the owners of a garden plot or a house in the countryside. In this case, individual power plants can come to the rescue, both running on oil products and using wind energy, water, etc., but there is nowhere to buy such power plants - they are not for sale. The most environmentally friendly source is the wind. One of these power plants can be made manually, for example wind farm (WPP). With the help of a propeller, an electric generator that charges the battery through a rectifier. WPP uses a renewable and free source of energy and does not need constant supervision. However, electricity is generated extremely unevenly - only in windy weather. However, small wind power plants (wind turbines), connected to the battery, almost compensate for this shortcoming.

wind farms in the factory, as a rule, bladed propeller engines are produced. Unlike rotary bladed wind farms have the advantage of higher efficiency. But bladed motors are much more difficult to manufacture, so if you want to make a wind power generator with your own hands, or, more simply, a homemade wind power plant, experts advise manufacturing rotary motors.

Rice. one. Scheme of a rotary wind farm:

1 - blades
2 - cross
3---shaft
4 - bearings with housings
5 - coupling
6 - power rack (channel No. 20)
7 - reducer
8 - electric generator
9 - stretch marks (4 pcs.)
10 - stairs.

Important: the rotary engine must be raised at least 3-4 meters above the ground. Then the rotor will be in the free wind zone, and the interference from adjacent buildings will remain below it. , raised above the ground, will perform another function - the function of a lightning rod, and for areas with low buildings this is important.

In the design developed by V. Samoilov, the rotor consists of 4 blades, this provides it with a more uniform rotation. The rotor is one of the most important parts of a windmill. Its design and dimensions of the blades play a special role - the power and speed of rotation of the shaft that drives the gearbox of the wind farm depends on their location and design. The larger the working area of ​​the blades that form the streamlined surface, the lower the number of revolutions of the rotor.

Rice. 3. Double deck rotary wheel:

1 - bearing
2 - bearing housing
3 - additional fastening of the shaft with four braces
4 - shaft.
The rotor rotates due to aerodynamic asymmetry. The wind blowing across the axis of the rotor "slides" off the rounded part of the blade and enters its opposite "pocket". The difference in the aerodynamic properties of the rounded and concave surfaces creates thrust, which turns the rotor. This motor has more torque. The power of a rotor with a diameter of 1 m exceeds the power of a propeller with three blades with a diameter of 2 m.
In gusts of wind, rotary wind turbines operate more stably than screw ones. And another important fact, the rotors run more smoothly, make less noise, work in any wind direction without additional devices, but the downside is that their rotation speed is limited to 200-500 rpm.
But an increase in the speed of an asynchronous generator will not give an increase in voltage. Therefore, we will not consider automatic change in the angle of the rotor blades for different wind speeds.
There are different types rotary wind farms which you can do by hand. Here are some of them:

Examples of rotary wheels.

Four-bladed rotary wind wheel, efficiency up to 15%. A two-tier rotor wheel is easier to manufacture, has a higher efficiency (up to 19%), and also develops a greater number of revolutions compared to a four-bladed one. But, in order to maintain the reliability of the installation, it is advisable to increase the diameter of the shaft. The Savonius rotor has fewer revolutions than a two-bladed rotor. Its efficiency does not exceed 12%. Such an engine is mainly used to drive piston units (pumps, pumps, etc.). A carousel wind wheel is one of the simplest designs. This rotor is capable of developing relatively low speeds and, having a low specific power, has an efficiency of no more than 10%.

We'll consider do-it-yourself wind farm assembled on the basis of a four-blade rotor. Wind energy can also be used as wind pump for water, as a separate installation or combined with a power plant.

The blades of the wind wheel can be made from an iron 100, 200 liter barrel. It must be cut with a “grinder”, it is not recommended to cut the barrel with any welding, since the properties of the metal along the cutting seam change very much. It is possible to strengthen the edges of the manufactured blade by fixing reinforcement bars or strips of metal with a diameter of 6 to 8 mm on them.
We fix the blades of the first rotor on two crosspieces with two M12-M14 bolts. The upper cross is made of steel sheet 6-8 mm thick. A gap of 150 mm is required between the sides of the blades and the rotor shaft. The lower crosspiece needs to be made more durable, since it accounts for the bulk of the weight of the blades. For its manufacture, we take a channel with a length of at least 1 m (this depends on the barrel used), with a wall of 50-60 mm
Mast and main shaft.
In the proposed wind power plant a frame made of a corner for mounting an electric generator is fixed on a stand, which is made of a channel. The lower end of the rack is connected to a square hammered into the ground. It is more expedient to assemble the rotor shaft from two components, this will give you convenience when boring its ends for bearings. Bearings (in housings (boxes)),
corresponding in size to the shaft, are bolted to the channel. Shaft parts are interconnected. The shaft diameter must be at least 35-50 mm.
To one of the shelves of the channel homemade wind farm we weld pipe sections 500 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, which will act as a ladder. We dig the rack into the ground by at least 1200 mm, and for additional stability we fix it with 4 stretch marks. To protect against corrosion, the power plant must be painted with paint based on drying oil.

Rice. 4. Possible schemes for attaching the rotors to the vertical shaft:

a, b - carousel wheels;
c - Savonius rotor.
The lower part of the picture. Windmill blade made
from 1/4 barrel and cut diagram:
1 - hole for fastening to the cross
2 - bead reinforcement
3 - contour of the blades.