Homemade wind farm for the home. Vertical wind generator for a summer residence

The wind, as an endless source of energy, is becoming more and more widespread. Such a source of alternative energy is especially popular in remote regions (for example, Taiga), at polar stations. In addition, more and more household wind turbines are made by suburban residents. What types of windmills exist and how to assemble a device for converting wind energy with your own hands - read below.

Wind generation is the ability to generate electricity from wind energy. A wind generator is, in fact, a solar generator: winds are formed due to the uneven heating of the Earth's surface by the sun, the rotation of the planet and its relief. Generators use the movement of air masses and convert it into electricity through mechanical energy.

On average, one 20 kW windmill can provide electricity to one small village.

Based on the principle of wind generation, both a whole power plant can be built, and autonomous devices can be built to provide electricity to certain areas and even houses. Today, 45% of all energy is generated by wind turbines. The largest wind farm is located in Germany, and each year produces up to 7 million kWh of energy per hour. Therefore, more and more often, the owners of country houses in distant regions and villages are thinking about using wind energy for domestic purposes. At the same time, windmills can be used both single and.

Wind generator: principle of operation, types of devices

Most windmills are a steel tower - a mast, on top of which three blades are fixed. A modern household 5 kw windshield of the second magnitude can easily generate up to 5000 watts of electricity. This is quite enough to provide electricity to a residential building, a summer residence. The axial generator delivers up to 500 Wh. The most powerful wind generator in the world - 8 MW.

A modern wind turbine may have:

  • Horizontal axis of rotation;
  • vertical axis of rotation.

The horizontal visor has an axis that rotates parallel to the ground (like a conventional windmill). Vertical wind turbines can have both blades and rotors that move parallel to the ground.

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Rotors can vary in shape and size, and are divided into:

  • Savonius devices (rotors are made in the form of half-cylinders);
  • Ugrinsky rotors (improved semi-cylindrical type rotors);
  • Darier rotors (can be helical, curved and H-shaped);
  • Multi-bladed wind turbines (used in carousel-type windmills);
  • Helicoid rotors (have a conical rotor).

Often vertical wind generators are yule-shaped (an example is the rotary wind generator “Genghis Khan”). The most effective device of its group is considered to be a multi-blade top-type design.

Homemade wind generator: advantages and disadvantages

Installing a windmill may be necessary if electricity is not supplied to your site, there are constant interruptions in the power grid, or you want to save on electricity bills. The windmill can be purchased, or you can make your own.

A homemade wind generator has the following advantages:

  • It allows you to save money on the purchase of a factory device, because the manufacture is most often made from improvised parts;
  • Ideal for your needs and operating conditions, because you calculate the power of the device yourself, taking into account the density and strength of the wind in your area;
  • It harmonizes better with the design of the house and landscape design, because the appearance of the windmill depends only on your imagination and skills.

The disadvantages of home-made devices include their unreliability and fragility: home-made products are often made from old engines from household appliances and cars, so they quickly fail. However, in order for the wind turbine to be efficient, it is necessary to correctly calculate the power of the device.

How to make a windmill with your own hands

In order to make a wind generator with your own hands, you should know exactly what details exist in its design and what they are responsible for. So it will be possible to understand how to replace some parts that are difficult to find at home.

Any wind turbine has in its design:

  • Blades that rotate;
  • An alternating current generator;
  • Controller - a device that converts mechanical energy from the blades into current;
  • An inverter is a device that converts direct current into alternating current;
  • Rechargeable batteries;
  • Mast.

A simple small windmill can be made using a household fan as a basis. Some craftsmen adapt an old computer cooler for a mini-windmill. True, the power of such a wind blower will not exceed 100 watts. When a 5 kW wind turbine is needed to power small and medium-sized houses, and 10 kW for commercial facilities.

Do-it-yourself electric generator: calculating the power of the device

The manufacture of any windmill for private use begins with the preparatory stage - calculating the power of the device. So, for example, for the operation of water heating, it will be necessary to install a windmill with a height of at least 5-6 meters. At the same time, it is not possible to use only wind energy for heating: the wind speed is quite changeable. But as an additional source that will save money, you can use the wind.

To do this, you can use the numerous formulas that are presented on the network. The simplest solution is to use a calculator that calculates the wind strength on its own. You, in this case, will only need to drive the desired values ​​\u200b\u200binto the program. Most often these are: the area on which the wind blows, the density and speed of the wind.

You can find out the average speed of air masses in your area by contacting the weather service.

In addition, for work you will need an electrical circuit of a windmill, detailed design drawings that can be drawn on a regular sheet of paper or visualized using a computer program for three-dimensional modeling.

How to choose a generator for a windmill

Household windmills should be quiet. Therefore, it is better to use a low-speed (low-speed) engine as a generator for wind turbines. Such an engine is capable of performing from 350 to 700 revolutions per minute. In addition, a low-speed motor can be used even on a single-blade windmill. Also, a low-speed generator can be made from a stepper motor.

To increase the speed of the windmill, you can use the multiplier: it will speed up the rotation of the blades by 5-10 times.

Disc motors on neodymium magnets are especially popular. Magnets, at the same time, can be of different sizes and, accordingly, power. Such a generator is made quite simply, but its cost is quite high.

In order to start the propeller, you can use a pedal bike generator.

Many people make a low-power generator from a gas generator, an automobile or tractor generator, a battery from a screwdriver. In this case, it should be borne in mind that a gearbox that reduces speed will need to be installed on a design with a generator from a tractor and an autogenerator.

Do-it-yourself wind generators for 220 v

In order to assemble the windcatcher, we need: a 12 volt generator, batteries, a converter from 12 v to 220 v, a voltmeter, copper wires, fasteners (clamps, bolts, nuts).

The manufacture of any windmill involves the following steps:

  1. Blade manufacturing. The blades of a vertical wind generator can be made from a barrel. You can cut the parts with a grinder. A screw for a small windmill can be made from a PVC pipe with a cross section of 160 mm.
  2. Mast making. The mast must be at least 6 meters high. At the same time, in order for the torsional force not to break the mast, it must be fixed to 4 stretch marks. At the same time, each stretch must be wound on a log, which should be buried deep in the ground.
  3. Installation of neodymium magnets. The magnets are glued to the rotor disk. It is better to choose rectangular magnets, in which the magnetic fields are concentrated over the entire surface.
  4. Winding generator coils. Winding is carried out with a copper thread with a diameter of at least two mm. At the same time, skeins should be no more than 1200.
  5. Fixing the blades to the pipe with nuts.

In the presence of powerful batteries and an inverter, the resulting device will be able to generate such an amount of electricity that will be enough to use household appliances (for example, a refrigerator and a TV). Such a generator is perfect for maintaining the operation of lighting, heating and ventilation systems of a small country house, greenhouse.

DIY windmills 5 kW (video)

A wind turbine is a safe, modern device that allows you to transform wind energy into electricity, which is necessary for the operation of household appliances, heating systems, water supply, and ventilation. With a little calculation, you can build a wind turbine without professional help. The above detailed instructions, pictures and recommendations for choosing components can help with this!

Examples of windmills (photo)

Details Published: 06.11.2017 17:09

A step-by-step guide (as detailed as possible in the video) on how to make a windmill easily and cheaply was created by inventor Daniel Connell. The original instructions can be found on the website.

Description

The vertical axis wind turbine uses wind power to generate electricity from generators, and can also power air and water pumps for cooling, irrigation, and more.

The design of the Lentz2 turbine (named after the author - Ed Lenz) is 35-40% more efficient and can be built from improvised means, cheap materials and even scrap metal. The six-bladed version can be assembled by two people in about four hours with little effort, spending only $15-$30.

The wind generator with three blades has successfully passed the test in sustained wind speeds up to 80 km/h, and the six blades are excellent at winds up to 105 km/h. Of course, both options are capable of more, but it has not yet been possible to establish how much specifically. To date, the turbine, installed in early 2014, has been operating the longest, withstanding storms, while there are no visible signs of wear yet.

For this particular design, the power curves have not yet been fully calculated, but according to the data already available, six blades with a diameter of 0.93 meters and a height of 1.1 meters, paired with a high-efficiency alternator, should produce at least 135 watts of electricity at a wind speed of 30 km/h. h or 1.05 kW at 60 km/h.

Instruments

In order to assemble a wind turbine with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • Electric drill;
  • Metal drills (diameter 4/6/10 mm);
  • Utility knife or Stanley knife, metal shears (the former is better for cutting paper, the latter for aluminum sheets, so it's better to have both);
  • Aluminum corner (20x20 mm, about a meter in length, ± 30 cm);
  • Roulette;
  • Hand riveter;
  • Marker;
  • Scotch;
  • 4 clothespins;
  • Computer and printer (inexpensive black and white will do);
  • Impact wrench with 7 mm socket (optional).

materials

In addition to tools, of course, you will need the following materials:

  • 11 aluminum plates for offset printing;
  • 150 rivets (4 mm in diameter, 6-8 mm in length);
  • 18 M4 bolts (10-12 mm long) and the same number of nuts;
  • 24 small washers 4 mm (about 10 mm outer diameter);
  • 27 large washers 4 mm (about 20 mm outer diameter);
  • 27" bike wheel*;
  • 12 bicycle spokes (any length);
  • 2 steel strips (approximately 20x3x3 cm);
  • Bicycle rear wheel axle with three nuts (suitable for the wheel);
  • 3 M6 bolts with nuts (60 mm long);

*Because bicycle wheels have a complex classification of sizes, you will need one with an outer rim diameter of 63-64 cm. Of course, a 26-inch wheel can be used, but it is not so ideal. It should have a normal thick axle (about 9 mm) protruding at least 4 cm, 36 spokes and spin smoothly. If you're going to be working at a low RPM (for pumping water instead of generating electricity, for example), then a rear wheel with gears may be needed, but more on that later. It will not be superfluous to lubricate the bearings.

The materials listed in this example are for assembling a turbine with three blades. If you want to assemble a six-blade option, double everything except the bicycle wheel.

Template files

Management

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a vertical axis wind turbine:

Step 1:

Download and print the two template files from the links above. Make sure they are printed at 100% size (200 dpi). When printing, measure the distance between the size arrows, it should be 10 cm on both pages. If there is an error of a couple of mm, then this is not scary.

Pin the pages together so that the 10cm arrows are as close together as possible. It is best to do this in front of the light source so that you can see through both sheets. Using a utility knife and an aluminum corner that acts as a ruler, cut out the template along the outer borders. When cutting, make sure that your other hand is not in the way of the knife, so as not to cut yourself. In this regard, the corner perfectly protects the hand.

Step 2:

Take an aluminum plate and measure out a 42x48 cm rectangle. Draw a line down the middle so you have two 42x24 cm rectangles. Cut the outer lines with a Stanley knife without trying to cut all the way through the metal, it will be enough just to draw lines that will then allow you to separate the parts. For the best effect, you can walk lightly once, and a little harder the second time, with pressure. In this case, it is not necessary to cut a line drawn in the middle, at a mark of 24 cm.

Bend the plate along the notch line and straighten back. Do this a couple of times and it will crack. Do the same on the other side and remove the outer metal. Save it for later.

Step 3:

Attach the template to the metal rectangle (hereinafter referred to as the “base”) so that the long edge of the paper is on the middle line, and the right edges are aligned with the other edges. Don't worry if the other edges don't fit perfectly.

Using a knife and a corner cutter, cut the curved line of the template, including triangles at each end. The base doesn't have to be perfect, but try to be as precise as possible so that you can use it as a template for the rest. Cut, bend, and remove the two triangles of metal that remain outside the template.

Step 4:

Mark the centers of the holes on the template paper with a marker so that they are visible from the other side, and turn the paper over so that the printed side is down on the second half of the base, leaving its long edge in the middle line. Secure with tape so it doesn't move.

Bend inwards the curved part of the base and remove the two small triangles. Be careful not to bend the metal too much, as you may loosen it in the uncut portion.

Now you have your first foundation. Repeat steps two through three for a total of six. Also, instead of paper for cutting out the remaining bases, you can use the first one. On three of them, the center line will be drawn in front, and on the other three, behind.

Step 5:

Take all six blanks and connect them together, aligning them as accurately as possible. If suddenly you don’t have clothespins, use adhesive tape to connect them. Drill each of the 16 holes through all six blanks with a 4mm drill bit. Drill the center hole first, as that is the only one that needs to be accurate. You can put a bolt in the first hole so that the bases do not move when drilling the rest. If the holes on your template are slightly different from those in the video, it's because the template may have been updated.

Remove the template and separate them. Lay the base so that the middle line protrudes slightly from the edge of the table, place a corner on it and bend it to 90 degrees. Repeat this step with all six bases, fold three shiny side up and three down. Set them aside.

Step 6:

Take another aluminum plate and straighten out any possible kinks. Measure 67 cm from the long edge and cut off the rest. Draw a line at a distance of 2 cm from one of the edges, turn the plate over and draw another line at the same distance from the opposite edge. Repeat the action with two more plates and connect all three together so that each line drawn is aligned with the edge of the next plate.

Along the edge, cut lines at a distance of 4, 6, 8, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm, and then every 2 cm up to 64 cm. Keep in mind that the left side has a cut at a distance of 4 cm from the edge, and the right side - 3 cm. Flip the plates over making sure they are neatly aligned and do the same. Make sure the notches line up on both sides.

Step 7:

Place the plates on the table one above the other and align them along the edges. From the 4 cm mark, draw a vertical line 19 cm from the edge and another 33 cm. On each of these lines, make marks 3 and 20 cm from both ends. Drill all three plates with 4mm drill bits in all eight marks. If you are making a turbine with six blades instead of three, you can easily drill through all six plates at the same time. Then separate them.

Step 8:

Place the plate so that the right edge with the slot at a distance of 3 cm hangs over the table. Place the corner at the second mark from this edge and fold it into a triangular shape, as shown in the video. Do the same with the left edge.

Bend the plate beforehand so that the bases can be placed more easily. But don't bend it too much so that it doesn't fold in half.

Step 9:

Flip the plate vertically and insert the base from above (the uncut half with the holes should point up). The best way to do this is to first place the triangles along the edges into the corresponding holes on it, press down on the inside, and then push the rest of the plate through the cut.

Next, straighten the cut edge distances so that the first three on each of the triangles are outward, and the rest alternate. You will probably need to cut through a few of these, or use pliers if they prove less pliable. If you suddenly bend the tab in the wrong direction, it is better to leave it as it is, as bending it back can weaken the metal. Make sure the three long tabs are also folded in alternately.

Raise the base to line up with the folded parts. Place two bicycle spokes in its crease and fold over the other half. Pressing down on the edges of the metal around the spokes with pliers will keep them from falling out. Flip the structure over and place the other base in the same way.

Step 10:

Cut off the two outer corners of the base. Measure the smaller triangle and cut along with the other half, and for the larger one, make a margin of 2 cm using an aluminum angle and cut it off as well. Repeat for the second base.

Step 11:

Take one of the remains of the plate after cutting out the base and cut a strip 7 cm wide from it, and then cut 4 cm from its length. Give it a triangular shape, as shown in the video. From each edge of the 3 cm front side, draw lines, approximately in the center, a few centimeters long.

Step 12:

Position the triangular post inside the weather vane so that the side with the marked lines matches the row of drilled holes towards the trailing edge. Look at the line through the top hole to check for proper placement.

Drill the post through the hole in the wind vane and secure with a rivet. Repeat for the bottom hole, and then for the two in the middle.

Step 13:

Take a new plate, smoothing out any possible unevenness and cut it in half so that you have two 33.5 cm wide pieces. Cut 4 cm from one of the short edges of both pieces. Do this again so you have four 33.5 cm sheets (you will only need three of them). Align and connect them together.

From one of the long edges, draw three vertical lines at a distance of 1, 9 and 19 cm. Next, make marks on each line, at a distance of 1 and 20 cm on either side of the short edge. Drill 12 holes with a 4mm drill bit.

Step 14:

Make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the opposite long edge and give it a triangular shape, as shown in the video.

Step 15:

Place the resulting sheet inside the blade so that its smooth edge coincides with the trailing edge of the blade. It's okay to have a little gap if it doesn't fit perfectly.

Drill the holes closest to the edge through and fasten the sheet together with the back of the vane with rivets.

Step 16:

Raise the blade vertically. Press the triangular edge of the sheet inserted inside so that it rests against the back of the weather vane and is slightly stretched over the triangular post below it.

Drill the holes where the triangular edge of the sheet rests through and secure it with rivets.

Step 17:

Drill one of the center holes in the sheet, making sure the drill is pointing straight ahead, and secure the sheet with a rivet and washer so that the washer is on the inside of the blade. This one will be much easier with someone's help. Try to keep the puck straight. Repeat for the other three holes.

Drill and fasten the remaining row of holes in the same way. In this case, the sheet should fit snugly around the triangular rack. You will surely notice that the blade is now much stronger and stiffer.

Bend the 2cm overlap on both bases 90 degrees.

Step 18:

Drill all the holes in the base of the weather vane, along with the ones that will attach to the bike wheel. If you make the three bladed version, then it will be the bottom one. If you are making a version with six blades, then three of them will be attached to the wheel at the bottom, and the other three at the top. The rest of the blades are identical.

Fasten each hole with rivets, except as noted, as these will be bolted to the wheel rim.

On some holes it is very easy to just push out the inner layer of metal with both a drill and a riveter, so make sure they are all properly secured. If it doesn't, you may need to drill out and replace the rivet.

Drill holes on the opposite side of the blade and fasten everything except the center one.

Step 19:

Take a bicycle wheel. Drill three 4mm holes evenly spaced around the rim. Your wheel should have 36 spokes, so make holes every 12 spokes. They should also be fairly close to the edge of the rim.

Insert an M4 bolt through one of the holes and place the blade on top by threading the bolt through the outermost of the three holes in its base. Place a large washer and tighten the nut. Make sure the bolt is in front of the bike spoke you put in the crease of the base and the washer above it. This is important so that the bolt and the entire blade do not fall off the wheel. Do not fully tighten the nut.

Align the vane so that the other two holes are near the edge of the wheel rim and mark through them with a marker. Move the vane back so you can drill two marks.

Put the blade back in place and secure with two more bolts, large washers and nuts. Fully tighten all three. This is where a 7mm bit and wrench come in handy, as hand-tightening them is more time consuming. You're also better off using hex head bolts as they should rest against the wheel rim and not rotate when you tighten them. If they do spin, just grab the head of the bolt with pliers or a 7mm wrench. Trying to screw them in with a screwdriver if you happen to be using Phillips bolts is a nightmare at best, and if you're making a six-bladed turbine it's simply not possible.

Step 20:

Repeat all the previous steps twice starting from step 8 to collect two more blades from the remaining molds and plates and attach them to the wheel.

Step 21:

Take another piece of the plate and cut a strip 9.5 cm wide and 67 cm long. Draw lines 3.5 cm from the left long edge and 1 cm from the right. At this distance of 1 cm, bend the strip to 45 degrees. Then turn it over and give it a triangular shape, as shown in the video.

Drill holes with a diameter of 4 mm at a distance of 1 cm from each end of the resulting rack and in the middle, there should be three of them, in a flat area of ​​1 cm. Fasten the middle hole with a rivet. Repeat twice so you have three racks.

Step 22:

Insert an M4 bolt with a large washer from the bottom through the center hole at the top of one of the blades and through the outermost holes in the two uprights. Add another large washer and tighten the nut. Repeat the same with the other two blades and the last post. Do not tighten washers all the way.

The top of the blades should be flush with their bases. To do this, place the turbine on the ground so that you can look down on it, and check (if necessary, trim) each of the blades.

After leveling the position of the blade, drill a hole through one of the spacers (through and through with the top of the blade) at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge. Insert a large bolt, a large washer and tighten with a nut. Recheck alignment, drill another post and do the same. Tighten all three nuts. Repeat this for the other two blades.

If desired, you can add an additional three blades to the bottom of the wheel. This will give you twice as much power and also make the turbine more stable by moving the fulcrum to the middle rather than down.

Step 23:

To make a bracket for your turbine, take two strips of steel 18 and 20 cm long, 3 cm wide, about 3 mm thick. These numbers are not vital if they are roughly the same and the metal is strong enough.

Mark a distance of 3 cm from one end of each strip, and bend them at right angles using a bench vise. Make sure the corners are close to 90 degrees or the turbine won't stand up straight.

Nest two parts so that the 18 cm one is inside the larger one. Drill a 10mm hole (which should match the bike wheel axle diameter for your turbine) through the folded sides of the strips. Make sure they don't slip while drilling.

Take a spare bike axle, not the one on your wheel, and wind on the nut. Insert it into a 20 cm steel strip, add and tighten another nut, add a smaller strip, and then another nut.

Drill a 6mm hole in the gap between the two pieces as shown in the video, then another one about 1cm later and a third near the opposite end. Tighten the nuts and remove the fasteners.

Step 24:

Insert an M6 bolt through the top hole of the larger steel strip and slide it onto the axle at the bottom of the wheel (if the nut you are using is not too wide, you may need to machine the head of the bolt to fit between the two parts of the mount), then tighten nut, then thread the 18 cm piece, the last nut and tighten it as tightly as possible, and finally thread two bolts through the remaining holes.

Congratulations, you made a windmill with your own hands!

Configurations

Possible wind turbine configurations:

Below are some potential configurations for your wind turbine that require the attachment of various additional parts so that they can do useful work. Of course, one solution will not work for all situations at once, as it will depend to a large extent on how you plan to use the wind turbine, so the options are provided for the most part for guidance. Most builds are quite simple and have been done before.

Option A: DC generator.

This wind turbine can be plugged in and used to power a variety of equipment, like a mechanical water pump, but you'll probably use it to generate electricity to power household appliances or charge batteries.

One of the simplest solutions for this is to use a permanent magnet DC motor, which in reverse mode will work as a generator and convert mechanical energy into electrical energy. Which type of motor you end up using depends on your budget, the strength of the winds, and your electrical needs. However, the methods of connecting them to the turbine are almost the same. Good options for increasing power output are motors from car windshield wipers, electric scooters, or treadmills. They can be bought online or found in old or discarded devices.

The process of attaching the motor to the windmill structure is basically just stripping it off, attaching the pulley to the shaft, running the timing belt around the wheel rim (with a layer of nylon strapping attached to protect the belt and ensure a good engagement) and fasten the motor to the frame, as shown in the video, using long bolts so that you can easily adjust the tension of the belt.

Option B: High-rise pole

There are many different ways to mount a wind generator, including on your rooftop, boat, van, or radio tower, but the most common option, especially if you live in the countryside, is a metal pole with guide wires.

It's largely a matter of attaching various components, as shown in the video, to place the turbine in a safer and more secure way. You may need to dig holes, half a meter to a meter deep, to place wooden anchors there, or attach cables to any other firmly fixed objects nearby.

The bottom of the pole in this configuration has a horizontal arm and a connection that allows the structure to be lowered to the ground for diagnostics or during a storm. To do this, it is only necessary to remove the D-shaped bracket in the places where the cables are attached and, with its help, carefully lower the unit to the ground. You can lift it again by repeating the whole process in reverse. After that, it is desirable to make sure that everything is securely fixed, and the pole is in a vertical position.

To make the process safer, you can use four cables instead of three.

Option C: Bicycle chain and DC generator(s)

The toothed belt and pulley, in the case of the first option, work quite well, but not everywhere they can act as readily available materials. A simpler and potentially more effective alternative to this method is to use a bicycle chain, about 2.1-2.2 meters long (for this you will need to combine two chains together), and one or three DC motors. Two of these will help tension the chain as you tie the three motors together with clamps, leaving a small gap between them so they don't touch. To do this, you can lay something elastic between them, like thick rubber. If you only use one alternator, then the configuration is pretty much the same except for small metal tubes with bicycle gears spinning on a bolt or other axle for the same tension.

If you are using three motors, they can be connected in series for greater efficiency, especially in light winds. An additional advantage of this configuration is a strong grip on the base of the turbine, making it more stable and reliable in strong winds.

Option D: E-bike wheel motor.

The ideal solution for generating electricity from a homemade turbine is to use an electric bicycle wheel motor. If you manage to find it. The design uses the wheel anyway, and just about every aspect of power input and output, RPM and whatnot, is great for a 300W wheel motor. All you need to do is build a turbine on it and connect the wires to the electrical system. However, in some countries, unfortunately, such a solution can become complex and costly.

Option E: Homemade alternator.

This option will give you the most control over the performance of your home windmill in terms of voltage, RPM and total power today. However, it is also one of the most time-consuming, requiring extensive knowledge. Basically, it's just a circle of magnets passing through a circle of copper wire coils, but their exact configuration depends on a variety of factors. And yet this problem has already been solved a thousand times and there is a lot of useful information on this subject on the Internet.

Option F: "Hardcore".

The standard six-blade turbine assembly has withstood winds of up to 105 km/h and some pretty severe storms, but if you want to add even more robustness to the design, then this option will provide that option. In general, it consists of additional bracing and support points on the other side of the wheel axle and two additional aluminum triangles on the top and bottom struts to prevent the blades from swinging too far from the vertical and therefore falling off the wheel. Another difference is that it's better to mount the spacers on the inside rather than the outside so that they are on the center line of the turbine and neatly placed in the cut out circles of the two triangles.

Option G: Daisy-chain (vertical pole for multiple wind turbines).

About half of the total cost of a standard turbine installation is for the pole itself and its modifications. But there is no reason why you can only have one turbine on it. The lower ones will receive less wind and thus produce less energy than the higher ones, but this is still a very worthwhile undertaking. Since some turbines can be responsible for the production of electrical energy, while others, for example, for pumping water.

Video

Conclusion

Such a homemade windmill is unlikely to provide electricity to the whole house, but a few installations will be quite enough to supply energy to a country house, street lighting, watering installations, etc. According to the developers, together such a thing can be made in four hours of not very hard work, while spending only fifteen to thirty dollars.

Wind is free energy! So let's use it for personal purposes. If the creation of a wind farm on an industrial scale is very expensive, because in addition to the generator it is necessary to carry out a number of studies and calculations, the state does not bear such expenses, and for some reason investors in the countries of the former USSR are not of particular interest. Then privately you can make a mini-windmill for your own needs. It should be understood that the project of converting your home to alternative energy is a very expensive undertaking.

As already mentioned: you need to make long-term observations and calculations in order to choose the optimal ratio of the sizes of the wind wheel and generator, suitable for your climate, wind rose and average annual wind speed.

The efficiency of a wind power plant within the same region can differ significantly, this is due to the fact that the movement of the wind depends not only on the climatic zone, but also on the terrain.

However, you can find out what wind energy is at a minimal cost by assembling a budget installation to power a low-power load, such as a smartphone, light bulbs or a radio. With the right approach, you can provide electricity to a small house or summer cottage.

Let's look at how you can make the simplest wind turbine with your own hands.

Low-power windmills from improvised means

A computer cooler is a brushless motor, which in its original form is of no practical value.

It needs to be rewound, since in the original the windings are connected in an inappropriate way. Winding coils alternately:

    Clockwise;

    Counterclock-wise;

    Clockwise;

    Counterclock-wise.

You need to connect adjacent coils in series, or even better, wind it with one piece of wire, moving from one groove to another. In this case, choose the thickness of the wire arbitrarily, it would be better if you wind as many turns as possible, and this is possible when using the thinnest wire.

The output voltage from such a generator will be variable, and its value will depend on the speed (wind speed), install a diode bridge from Schottky diodes to rectify it to a constant, ordinary diodes will do, but it will be worse, because. voltage will drop from 1 to 2 volts.

Lyrical digression, a little theory

Remember the value of the EMF is:

where L is the length of the conductor placed in a magnetic field; V is the speed of rotation of the magnetic field;

When upgrading the generator, you can only influence the length of the conductor, that is, the number of turns of each of the coils. The number of turns - determines the output voltage, and the thickness of the wire - the maximum current load.

In practice, it is impossible to influence the wind speed. However, there is also a way out of this situation, it is possible, having learned the typical wind speed for your area, to design a suitable screw for a wind turbine, as well as a gearbox or belt drive, to provide sufficient speed to generate the required voltage.

IMPORTANT: Faster does not mean better! If the rotation speed of the wind generator is too high, its resource will be reduced, the lubricating properties of the bushings or bearings of the rotor will deteriorate, and it will jam, and the winding insulation breakdown in the generator will most likely occur

The generator consists of:

We increase the power of the generator from a computer cooler

First, the more blades and wheel diameter, the better, so take a closer look at 120mm coolers.

Secondly, we have already said that the voltage also depends on the magnetic field, the fact is that high power industrial generators have excitation windings, and low power ones have strong magnets. The magnets in the cooler are extremely weak and do not allow you to achieve good results from the generator, and the gap between the rotor and the stator is very large - about 1 mm, and this is with already weak magnets.

The solution to this problem is to radically change the design of the generator. Rather, only an impeller is required from the cooler; a motor from a printer or any other household appliance can be used as a generator. The most common are brushed motors with permanent magnet excitation.

As a result, it will look like this.

The power of such a generator is enough to power the LEDs, the radio. It will not be enough to recharge the phone, the phone will display the charging process, but the current will be extremely small, up to 100 amperes, with a wind of 5-10 meters per second.

Stepper motors as a wind generator

A stepper motor is very often found in computer and household appliances, in various players, floppy drives (old 5.25” models are interesting), printers (especially dot matrix), scanners, etc.

These motors without alterations can work as a generator, they are a rotor with permanent magnets, and a stator with windings, a typical connection diagram of a stepper motor in generator mode is shown in the figure.

The circuit has a 5 volt linear stabilizer, type L7805, which will allow you to safely connect mobile phones to such a windmill to charge them.

The photo shows a generator from a stepper motor with installed blades.

The engine in a particular case with 4 output wires, the diagram is accordingly for it. An engine with such dimensions in generator mode produces approximately 2 W in light wind (wind speed about 3 m / s) and 5 m / s in strong (up to 10 m / s).

By the way, here is a similar circuit with a zener diode, instead of L7805. Allows you to charge Li-ion batteries.

Refinement of a homemade windmill

To make the generator work more efficiently, you need to make a guide shank for it and fix it movably on the mast. Then, when the direction of the wind changes, the direction of the wind generator will change. Then the following problem arises - the cable going from the generator to the consumer will twist around the mast. To solve this, you need to provide a moving contact. A ready-made solution is sold on Ebay and Aliexpress.

The bottom three wires are motionless going down, and the upper bundle of wires is movable, a sliding contact or a brush mechanism is installed inside. If you do not have the opportunity to buy, be smart, and, inspired by the decision of the designers of the Zhiguli car, namely the implementation of the movable contact of the signal button on the steering wheel, and do something similar. Or use the contact pad from the electric kettle.

By connecting the connectors, you get a moving contact.

Powerful wind generator from improvised means.

For more power, you can use two options:

1. Generator from a screwdriver (10-50 W);

You only need a motor from a screwdriver, the option is similar to the previous one, you can use fan blades as a screw, this will increase the final power of your installation.

Here is an example of such a project:

Pay attention to how a gear overdrive is implemented here - the wind generator shaft is located in a pipe, at its end there is a gear that transmits rotation to a smaller gear mounted on the motor shaft. An increase in engine speed also occurs in industrial wind turbines. Reducers are used everywhere.

However, in a homemade environment, making a gearbox becomes a big problem. You can remove the gearbox from the power tool, it is needed there to reduce the high speed on the shaft of the collector motor to the normal speed of the chuck on the drill, or the grinder disk:

The drill has a planetary gearbox;

    An angle gearbox is installed in the angle grinder (it will become useful for the installation of some installations and reduce the load from the tail of the wind turbine);

    Gearbox from a hand drill.

This version of a homemade wind generator can already charge 12 V batteries, but a converter is needed to generate the charging current and voltage. This task can be simplified by using a car generator.

The advantage of such a generator is the ability to use it to charge car batteries, in principle, it is intended for this. Autogenerators have a built-in voltage regulator relay, which eliminates the need to buy additional stabilizers or converters.

However, motorists know that at low idle, approximately 500-1000 rpm, the power of such a generator is small, and it does not provide the proper current to charge the battery. This leads to the need to connect to the wind wheel through a gearbox or belt drive.

You can adjust the number of revolutions at wind speeds that are normal for your latitudes by selecting a gear ratio or using a properly designed wind wheel.

Helpful Hints


Perhaps the most convenient windmill mast design for repetition is shown in the picture. Such a mast is stretched on cables fixed to holders in the ground, which ensures stability.

Important: The height of the mast should be as high as possible, approximately 10 meters. At higher altitudes, the wind is stronger because there are no obstacles for it in the form of ground structures, hills and trees. Never install a wind generator on the roof of your house. Resonant vibrations of fastening structures can cause the destruction of its walls.

Take care of the reliability of the carrier mast, because the design of a windmill based on such a generator is much heavier and is already a rather serious solution that can provide autonomous power supply to a summer house with a minimum set of electrical appliances. Devices that operate on 220 Volts can be powered from a 12-220 V inverter. The most common version of such an inverter is.

It is better to use diesel generators, incl. trucks, because they are designed to work at low speeds. On average, a large truck diesel engine runs between 300 and 3500 rpm.

Modern generators give out 12 or 24 volts, and a current of 100 amperes has long become normal. After carrying out simple calculations, you can determine that such a generator will give you a maximum of up to 1 kW of power, and a generator from a Zhiguli (12 V 40-60 A) 350-500 W, which is already a pretty decent figure.

What should be a wind wheel for a homemade wind turbine?

I mentioned in the text that the wind wheel should be large and with a large number of blades, in fact this is not the case. This statement was true for those micro-generators that do not claim to be serious electrical machines, but rather specimens for familiarization and leisure.

In fact, the design, calculation and creation of a wind turbine is a very difficult task. Wind energy will be used more rationally if it is made very accurately and the “aviation” profile is ideally displayed, while it must be installed with a minimum angle to the plane of rotation of the wheel.

The real power of wind wheels with the same diameter and different number of blades is the same, the difference is only in the speed of their rotation. The smaller the wings - the more revolutions per minute, with the same wind and diameter. If you are going to achieve maximum RPM, you must mount the wings as accurately as possible with a minimum angle to the plane of their rotation.

Check out the table from the 1956 book "Homemade Wind Farm" ed. DOSAAF Moscow. It shows the relationship between wheel diameter, power and rpm.

At home, these theoretical calculations are of little use, amateurs make wind wheels from improvised means, they use:

  • Sheets of metal;

    Plastic sewer pipes.

You can assemble a high-speed 2-4-blade wind wheel with your own hands from sewer pipes, in addition to them, you need a hacksaw or any other cutting tool. The use of these pipes is due to their shape, after cutting they have a concave shape, which ensures high responsiveness to air flows.

After trimming, they are fixed with BOLTS on a metal, textolite or plywood blank. If you are going to make it from plywood, it is better to glue and twist several layers of plywood on both sides with screws, then you will be able to achieve rigidity.

Here is an idea for a two-bladed one-piece impeller for a stepper motor generator.

findings

You can make a wind power plant ranging from low power - units of watts, to power individual LED lamps, beacons and small equipment, to good power values ​​in units of kilowatts, store energy in a battery, use it in its original form or convert up to 220 volts. The cost of such a project will depend on your needs, perhaps the most expensive element is the mast and batteries, it can be in the range of 300-500 dollars.

Often situations arise when electricity in the nearest transmission line becomes unavailable or unreasonably expensive, and in such cases only a homemade windmill can help out. Let's look at options for autonomous supply of a country house with electricity.

Wind generators - which model is better?

Very often you want to save on electricity or get it where there are no power transmission towers yet. It is also possible that it is simply not possible to connect to this tower due to the lack of free power. In any of these cases, it becomes necessary to find an affordable source of electricity, preferably renewable, that is, without the use of fuel. Therefore, let's forget for a while about the existence of gasoline and diesel generators and try to use the power of the wind to generate electricity.

Windmills have existed for quite a long time, a couple of centuries ago windmills were actively used. Yes, during a calm, such a device is of little use, and during a storm even the most reliable mechanism can fail (at best). But for all its unreliability, a do-it-yourself wind generator for a home is the easiest to make, it is considered the most effective, especially if there is no access to a fast-flowing river to install the wheel. And it should be remembered that the windmill tower should not interfere with neighbors with noise, vibration, or even a cast shadow, according to the rules for building a residential building on the site.

There are only 2 main types of windmills: with a vertical and horizontal axis of rotation. Mills, once used everywhere, were machines whose blades were mounted on a horizontally oriented axis. Also, most windmills today are made according to this principle, since this option provides the greatest efficiency. However, do-it-yourself vertical axis wind turbines for home use the lightest wind that will not move the blades of the propeller models. Light gusts from 1-2 meters per second are enough for them. As for manufacturing, it is much easier to make a vertical windmill that receives wind from any direction.

Generators are also distinguished by the type of blades that both of the above species have. For the most part, the main factor in the division into types is the design: rigid or sail. Already, depending on which option is preferable for a particular model, the material for the manufacture of the blades of the wind flow catcher is selected. It can be plywood, tin or thin sheet steel, plastic, composite - for a light rigid structure, and any flexible but durable material will do for a sailboat, including silk, banner fabric or even a thin tarpaulin.

Differences in the shape of the blades of the generators - comparison of efficiency

The simplest version of the horizontal type is the sail structure, that is, simply the arrangement of the propeller planes at a slight angle to the plane of rotation. Rigid blades will require an accurate calculation of the bending of their surfaces, or it will be necessary to achieve maximum performance empirically. Insufficient curvature of the "wing" will result in a decrease in efficiency due to poor capture of the air flow, and too much curvature itself will create resistance to rotation due to friction against the air.

As for vertical axis generators, their wind catchers come in a wide variety of shapes, and development of new contours and curves is ongoing. The simplest option is with blades in the form of troughs, the so-called Savonius design. Their number is usually made even - 2 or 4. Although it happens more when they make home-made 30 kW multi-bladed vertical wind turbines with additional static screens on the outer ring. These screens direct and concentrate the wind to certain areas of the rotor located inside the ring, where the blades are installed directly. They, depending on the diameter of the base disk, can be read from 8 to 16 pieces.

There are also orthogonal propellers, which are located on vertically mounted axes and rotate in a horizontal plane, but their main drawback is their extremely low efficiency. Also, such generators do not work with weak gusts of wind, a speed of at least 4 meters per second is needed. And the least commonly used models of Dorier windmills, including helicoid, with a helical bend of the blades, arcuate wind traps and a design of the "H" type. They are reliable and effective, but they are difficult to make at home.

Pros and cons of various types - analyze and evaluate

As already mentioned, the performance is much higher for models with a horizontal axis of rotation. However, they need a strong wind, this usually happens at a height of more than 10-15 meters, and it is this length that the mast is installed, which is crowned with a rotary gondola with blades. Another positive quality can be considered the absence of a bending load on the shaft, which occurs in windmills with a vertical axis. The disadvantages include the fact that rotary propeller models have 2 shafts, which means more wear parts and a higher probability of breakage.

As for vertical systems, their advantages and disadvantages depend on the model. For example, Savonius windmills are the simplest and can be made for the home with your own hands, both from a tin can and from a metal or plastic barrel. They start up in the presence of 4 blades from the lightest breath of the wind, especially if high-quality parts are installed, then self-unwinding will occur due to inertia even with a gusty wind. But if there are only 2 or 3 blades, independent rotation is impossible, so they put 2 such modules one on top of the other, placing the wind catchers of each at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the other. The windage of this type is large, and therefore the lateral pressure on the axle is very high during a strong storm.

Orthogonal windmills, in addition to their low power, have a number of disadvantages. Firstly, this is a rather strong vibration due to uneven pressure on different parts of the wing-shaped blade. As a result, a bearing mounted on a vertical shaft quickly deteriorates. In addition, such generators emit a rather strong and unpleasant noise during rotation, and therefore can cause dissatisfaction with neighbors in the nearest areas. Helicoid, if purchased ready-made, factory-assembled, are very expensive, as well as multi-blade designs, which have a very large number of parts.

Any wind generator can be installed in a rotating pipe to increase efficiency.

The principle of operation of windmills - how is the system arranged?

Regardless of the type of windmill, it cannot generate energy on its own, it needs a generator, the rotation of the shaft of which will be provided by the blades. If you have a design with a horizontal axis of rotation, you will need a gearbox to transmit movement to the shaft. Next, a controller is connected, which converts the electricity received on the generator coils into direct current, which then enters the batteries. Next, you can connect an LED light bulb, but if you want to charge a device or connect a laptop, you will also need an inverter that converts the charge stored in the battery into alternating current.

It should be borne in mind that each change in current from alternating to direct, and vice versa, reduces the total amount of energy by 10–15%.

A vertical axis installation is convenient in that its shaft can be quite long, and this allows you to place the generator at the bottom of the mast, that is, in the direct access zone. Often, an automatic switch is installed in the circuit, in cases where the windmill works in combination with solar panels or a water wheel. Also, in some models, they put a brake, which is needed in case the battery is fully charged. Hinges can be provided on the blades of windmills with a horizontal axis of rotation, which fold the wind catchers during a storm. A very powerful do-it-yourself 5 kilowatt wind generator is sometimes supplemented by a rotary electric motor, which is triggered by an air flow direction sensor.

Product on neodymium magnets - brief instructions

It is better to entrust the assembly of the rotor and stator for a windmill to a specialist, but if you decide to make a windmill for a private house from scratch with your own hands, you need to know how the generator is made. You should start with the base, for which it is best to use the hub of the car, since it already has bearings. Neodymium magnets are glued onto the disk at regular intervals, the poles of which, facing you, must alternate. Moreover, in a single-phase model, the number of opposite-pole sides must match. As for three-phase generators, it is recommended to observe proportions of 2:3 or 3:4.

Next, you should start winding the coils for the stator. It is also better to entrust this task to a specialist or use special devices that will help to cope with the task more accurately than if everything is done manually. In order to successfully charge a 12 watt battery, you need a total number of turns in all coils equal to 1000. In general, the simplest formula can be used to calculate the turns ω=44/(T*S), where 44 is a constant factor, T is the Tesla induction, and S is the cross section of the wire in square centimeters. Tesla induction is determined from the table for various types of conductors:

Wound coils (it is better to give them a rectangular or trapezoidal shape for ease of arrangement in a circle) are fixed with glue on a fixed base of the stator. In this case, the shape and dimensions of the internal space of the coil must correspond to the contours of the magnet. The same goes for thickness. We bring out all the ends of the conductors and connect them so that we get two common bundles "+" and "-". We fill the cores of the coils with the same glue that was used for fixing, it is also possible to completely isolate the wires laid on the stator disk with it. Now, if the magnets are combined with the coils during the rotation of the rotor, the potential difference between the poles will create conditions for generating electricity.

Making a windmill based on a finished electric motor

Usually, home craftsmen try to use car generators, but not all are suitable, but only self-excited ones, for example, those used in some tractor models. Most require the presence of a connected battery for the current to appear. However, a motor-wheel for a scooter or scooter can also be used as the basis for a windmill. This will make it possible to make low-noise vertical wind turbines of 5 kW, which will have a very high resource due to the simplest design with a minimum of parts.

You can also use almost any electric motor from household machines as a generator, the main thing is that there are no brushes in the base, as, for example, in or electric drills - such generators will not suit you. A cooler from a computer is also suitable for a low-power version, but only for charging small electronic devices. If you want to get a do-it-yourself vertical wind generator, at least 2 kW, it is better to take the motor from a powerful fan as a basis.

wind farms- This is the most alternative option for saving electrical energy today.

Very often, such installations can be found in suburban areas.

People use them in places where suburban areas are remote from the main electrical networks. But this is not the only reason. Most people use wind farms for economy and autonomy.

Wind farms have their own characteristics that potential buyers need to know, and how productivity depends on their competence.

The main incentive to purchase a wind generator- this is undoubtedly its expediency. One of the main criteria for achieving this goal is the requirements for the wind. It is known that the average annual wind speed is about 4.0-4.5 m / s, this indicator is more than enough for a home wind farm to be profitable in use, that is, it makes it possible to save electricity.

In order to estimate the wind speed in your area, you can use the wind map. If you have a desire to measure the wind speed with maximum accuracy, you should purchase a special device that will help you with this.

This invention includes a part called an anemometer. With it, you receive a signal equivalent to the speed of the wind. Also, you will need a device that reads the signals that the anemometer gives. There are other devices of this type.

In order for the data to be as accurate as possible, such devices must be installed high so that external factors such as trees, various buildings, etc., do not distort the results of the device.

Device Components

It is very important when buying a home wind farm to know its components, this will give you the opportunity to be more competent in this matter and choose the best model for your home.

The wind farm includes:

  1. Rotor with blades(depending on the model, wind turbines are divided into two-blade, three-blade and multi-blade).
  2. The gearbox, in other words, the gearbox. Its task is to regulate the speed between the rotor and the generator.
  3. Protective cover- its name speaks for itself, it is designed to protect all the components of the wind farm from external influences.
  4. "Tail" of the wind turbine- needed to rotate the structure in the direction of the wind.
  5. Accumulator battery Its main purpose is to store electricity. This is due to the fact that weather conditions are not always favorable for a wind farm, and with the help of this component, a certain amount of energy is stored.
  6. inverter installation- designed to convert direct current to alternating current. This is necessary to ensure the operation of household electrical appliances.


Types and principle of operation

Wind farms are divided into types according to the following four criteria:

  1. In the direction of the axis of rotation of the blades(divided into horizontal and vertical. Vertical ones are more resistant to external conditions, but they have less electricity generation).
  2. By number of blades(in this case, wind turbines are two-, three- and multi-bladed).
  3. According to the material used(they are distinguished with rigid and sail blades. The main difference is that sail blades are cheaper, but they are less durable);
  4. Blade control method(there are fixed and variable pitch blades. Experts recommend a fixed pitch blades, as variable causes difficulty in use).

When choosing a power plant, it would be advisable to know what the principle of operation of a wind generator is. The principle of operation of the installation is extremely simple. The design consists of a shank with blades mounted on a metal mast, which rotate with the help of the wind and turn the generator rotor.

Before supplying current to the battery compartment, it passes through a converter, where it converts AC to DC to a voltage of 220 volts at a frequency of 50 hertz and supplies the house with electricity in calm weather.

A modern wind generator does not need a strong wind. Its design is so well thought out that for a private house a wind speed of up to 4 - 5 m / s is enough.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of wind turbines:

  1. The costs are spent on the installation and maintenance of the device. More expenses are not required, since the structure does not need fuel to operate.
  2. You do not need to control and interfere with the operation of the windmill, since power generation occurs whenever there is wind.
  3. Depending on the type of generator, it won't make any noise.
  4. The device is suitable for most climatic conditions.
  5. Part wear is negligible.

The main disadvantages of a wind farm:

  1. In certain modes or when the mast is incorrectly installed, the wind generator can emit infrasound.
  2. high mast necessarily requires grounding.
  3. The need for regular preventive maintenance.
  4. Probability of fixture damage during hurricanes, etc.

Choice of size and placement

The size of a wind farm is a very important issue for potential buyers. In order to determine the size, you need to carefully study - how much energy do you consume in one month? The resulting figure must be multiplied by 12 months.

Then, you need to use the formula: AEO = 1.64 * D*D * V*V*V.

Notations that you need to know when using the formula:

  1. AEO- the electricity you use per year.
  2. D- rotor diameter, which is indicated in meters.
  3. V- the average annual wind speed, indicated in m / s.

Thus, these calculations will help determine what size generator you need, depending on your electricity consumption.

When thinking about purchasing a wind farm for your home, you need to study all the details associated with the design as accurately as possible, since it depends on how your goal will be satisfied.

When placing a wind turbine, you should consider the following factors:

  1. There should be no trees near your installation, various buildings and other things that could interfere with the maximum productivity of your generator.
  2. It is best to install a wind turbine on a specially constructed structure, which should be a couple of meters higher than obstacles located at a distance of at least 200 meters.
  3. It is recommended to place wind farms at a distance of about 30-40 meters from residential buildings, as they create a certain noise that brings discomfort.

Also, you should take into account that you will not be able to constantly get the same result from your wind farm, as the natural conditions change, there may be different gusts of wind in the same place, respectively, and the amount of energy you receive will be dynamic.

Price overview

In most cases, the price of wind farms depends on their capacity. In domestic conditions, generators with a power of 5 to 50 kW are quite enough.

More details about the ratio of prices and types of generators:

  1. Wind generators with a power of 3 kW / 48V– approximate cost 93 000.00 rub. Similar ones can be used not only as an additional source of power supply, but also as the main one. Such models are able to provide electricity to the cottage.
  2. Wind generators with a power of 5 kW / 120V– approximately 220,100.00 rubles. Such a design can provide energy to the whole house. You can simultaneously turn on a sufficiently large number of household electrical appliances.
  3. Wind generators with a power of 10 kW/240V- prices within 414,000.00 rubles. It is enough to provide energy for a farm or several houses. In addition to household appliances, you can easily use, for example, electrical construction tools all day. Such power generators are often used for supermarkets to ensure the continuous operation of departments and video surveillance.
  4. Wind generators with a power of 20 kW/240V- the price of such a device is 743,700.00 rubles. Power plants of this type are very powerful. They are able to provide electricity to the entire water pressure system. In domestic conditions, he will be able to more than fully provide energy to a huge house.
  5. Wind generators with a power of 30 kW/240V- cost within 961,800.00 rubles. This model is so powerful that it can provide electrical energy to a five-story house.
  6. Wind turbines with a power of 50 kW/380V- approximate price is about 3,107,000.00 rubles. This model is not rational for domestic use, as it is so powerful that it can more than provide energy for several multi-storey buildings.

When buying a home power plant, it is worth knowing that in most cases the prices are for the complete set, but you can add or exclude certain components yourself. This is subject to your personal discretion.

Efficiency and payback

Wind farms for the home are an alternative solution to save energy. They have become quite widespread.

In order to provide energy to the whole house, it is enough to use one wind generator and at the same time not limit yourself by saving on electricity.

It is also beneficial that to obtain such an effect, a minimum wind speed of 1.8 to 4.5 meters per second is sufficient.

But weather conditions are not always suitable for a wind turbine, so you need to purchase a backup generator that will provide power. This will give you the opportunity to increase the productivity of your home wind farm.

Among the positive aspects of the installation, it is worth noting the following:

  1. Spending a lot of money on a generator, you will no longer need to spend money, since the device does not need fuel to operate. That is, in a few years your purchase will be able to pay off.
  2. Wind generator performance does not depend on the season or other weather conditions, its operation does not stop even in winter, which is undoubtedly a plus, since in the winter season the energy consumption is higher than in others. This fact undoubtedly testifies to its effectiveness and payback.
  3. Generator parts wear is negligible, given the regular preventive maintenance of the wind turbine, which is necessary. With proper and competent installation, as well as operation of a wind farm for a home, it can serve you for more than thirty years, which is undoubtedly a significant plus.

The full payback period for wind farms is approximately 5-7 years, and then you can use electricity absolutely free.

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