Carved legs for a stool do-it-yourself drawings. How to make a wooden stool with your own hands at home

A stool is an integral element, a must-have fixture in any home. You can't call it too expensive or rare to be taken for hand-made, but a hand-made stool is sure to be more durable and elegant than a standard item from any store. This is what we will talk about today.

Self-made furniture, of course, has advantages over expensive samples bought in specialized stores and salons. Man-made objects have precisely specified characteristics, and in addition, they carry a piece of the soul of the master who had a hand in their creation.

The simplest everyday item, a wooden chair, is quite simple to make yourself, having basic knowledge in the field of carpentry and studying the technical details. For productive activity, the main thing that should be paid attention to is the preparation of a clear action plan, the availability of suitable tools and lumber, as well as the ability to organize your work according to the drawings.

Choice of wood

Before you make a chair, you will have to learn the basics of carpentry and understand the features of using the most popular types of wood. Some types of wood are more easily processed than others, and also have a large margin of safety.

Glued is cheaper than whole, although in this case it is necessary to take into account the ultimate goal and purpose. These subtleties will have to be taken into account so that the resulting product is durable and beautiful. It is important that the lumber is of high quality and has undergone the necessary pre-treatment.

Cracks are not allowed on the boards, the edges must have even cuts and are carefully cleaned. The remains of knots can affect the result of production, so you should not use such specimens to facilitate your own work.

The right choice would be pine and beech, as they are strong enough and have the necessary characteristics to create a quality product. In addition, these breeds are quite common and problems with the presence usually do not arise. This is exactly the case when excessive savings are not the best choice, since we are talking about the production of an item of daily use.

Action plan

Before starting work, you should carefully prepare and study a lot of samples, this will help a photo depicting chairs made by yourself of various modifications, using different types of wood. You need to take care of the availability of tools, prepare lumber in sufficient quantities, and preferably with some margin. Such foresight will save valuable time and nerves if something does not go as planned in the process.

Having the ability to draw and create drawings will be invaluable help in the project, although it is quite possible to get by with ready-made instructions and photographs of ready-made models. You will also have to take care of the presence of fasteners, screws, accessories, glue and other important details for production in the work, so that the design is durable and reliable in operation.

Options

Drawings of chairs that can be found in the public domain offer a choice of several of the most common and popular models. Folding and with a back, rocking chairs and on wheels differ rather in additional elements, but at the same time they are united by a common scheme.

Therefore, having trained on light modifications, which include a stool, it is then easy to move on to more complex and original options.

This does not mean that everything will be simple, it will take patience, skill and possession of the main tool of any home master - with his skillful hands.

Tool handling skills will come in handy in any case, because without them it is impossible to create wooden furniture. By devoting some time and attention to creativity, you can count on an excellent result that will delight the household and become the pride of the master.

Stool

Useful for beginners to gain confidence in their abilities. It fits perfectly into the concept of movement from simple to complex. This option will be good to serve as country furniture, and equipped with a soft base, it will always come in handy as a convenient kitchen attribute.

First, work is done on measuring and preparing the material. You need four bars with an equal cross section, which must be polished before further manipulations, remove roughness and notches.

Eight jumpers are needed to secure the seat and ensure the strength of the leg structure. Spikes are made at the ends of the jumpers, and holes are drilled in the legs. Such fastening, additionally reinforced with special glue, will help to hold the structure and provide the necessary rigidity and reliability.

For the seat, it is better to use a single piece of wood or several planks of equal width. Regardless of the lumber chosen, it will need to be carefully sanded to avoid injury later.

Assembly is carried out depending on the selected drawing using self-tapping screws, and glue is required at the joints. The finished stool should be left for a while to dry, and then varnished or a comfortable seat made of soft material.

Detailed assembly instructions and exact dimensions are easy to find or draw your own, and photo options make it easy to create.

back option

A chair with a backrest has a wide range of possibilities for use in everyday life. This model is most often found in finished drawings and has a lot of modifications. Among the general details, one can distinguish features that are characteristic of all such types of chairs without exception.

The front legs must be of exactly the right length to ensure maximum comfort when the seated person is positioned. They can be straight or curved, decorated with various details of the external decor - it all depends on the needs and imagination of the master.

The rear legs are the supporting part, and therefore often have a greater thickness than the front, especially for variations with folding and inclined backs. At the same time, in some cases it is possible to create a chair with legs of equal length and at a right angle with respect to the seat, that is, technically it will be a stool design, equipped with an additional backrest as an element that increases ease of use.

Drawers, which are located under the seat, provide support for the horizontal part. They also reinforce the structure and help keep the finished product stable.

Jumpers serve to strengthen the position of the front and rear legs, while in some models they are used in the amount of two pieces, and sometimes four are needed.

The back is just a distinctive feature and can be made in a variety of variations. A single piece or a collection of several parts, decorated with carved decorative elements or upholstered in fabric - here everything will also depend on the purpose of the item and on how skillfully the ideas will be realized.

The chair seat is usually made from a single piece of plywood, but an upholstered base can sometimes be used.

Fasteners and decorative parts that may be required during production are better to have with a margin, since sometimes additional fasteners are required to strengthen the structure or serve other purposes.

Possible ways to freshen up old furniture

In addition to the independent production of new items for a country or apartment interior, sometimes you can use the tricks of designers to give a new look to familiar things. A flight of fancy in the process can lead to amazing and completely unique items.

For the restoration of chairs, you can use inexpensive paints and varnishes, old fabrics and woolen threads, plastic. A preliminary sketch will be a very good helper, which will help to better imagine the final result of the creative process.

It is also important to take into account that the new item fits organically into the overall decor of the room, serves as decoration and retains its functional features.

In some cases, you should first fix the old furniture, restore strength. Repair work can be carried out using knowledge in the field of carpentry. It may be necessary to purchase lumber to restore a sagging seat or rickety supports.

Any chair will take on a new look and become an interesting interior detail if you equip it with soft upholstery or a cover. For upholstery, it is important to choose a fabric and correlate the color with the overall range of decoration in the room.

Handmade chair covers, in addition to the decorative function, carry a number of practical and functional advantages. For example, if there is a desire, then it is worth making several options for the winter and summer environment, and if necessary, the cover can be easily removed and washed or dry-cleaned.

Having a good imagination, you can create amazing and unique things with your own hands at home, using your skills and abilities for the benefit, as well as saving money on the purchase of ready-made furnishings.

DIY chair photo

The world of stools is vast and varied; photo in fig. give only a general idea of ​​its range. It is from a stool that many amateur carpenters begin their creative journey: you can make the simplest, but practical and pleasant-looking stool with your own hands in half an evening, and in the future, stools of other types will allow you to master the essential subtleties of furniture craftsmanship, and not one of the products will be superfluous in the house.

Other pieces of furniture do not possess such amazing properties; This is explained, on the one hand, by the fact that the stool is essentially extremely simple, purely practical and comes from the deepest antiquity: wooden decks on which cavemen sat around the fire, these are already stools. For the same reason, a stool must endure everything, be strong, reliable, durable.

On the other hand, the simplicity of form and design allows the stool to fit into any interior and generally be at home in any environment. Over the centuries and millennia, this must certainly have been appreciated, and was evaluated as a suitable basis for embodying certain aesthetic concepts in the material. Such an exquisite piece of furniture as a banquette is also nothing more than a stool. Fanciful design and decor require the use of complex technological techniques, therefore, to make a luxurious stool, you will need a fair amount of skill and experience. It is much easier to buy both, working with the usual basis, and here the stool provides a complete range of products from completely primitive to technologically the thinnest.

Stools are made from a variety of materials, from rope to stone. A plastic stool has long been commonplace, and forged or welded metal is also not unique, but in this post we will figure out how to make a stool out of wood. The reason, in addition to the "primordiality" of the material, is that it a wooden stool can be extremely simple, durable, reliable, and at the same time have high aesthetic merits. How so? Well, let's go!

Tool

The manufacture of a stool begins with the preparation of a tool and a workplace. Do not worry, we will not immediately advise you to spend some decent salaries on a wood milling machine, a drilling machine, a planer-sawing machine and a lathe. Let's try to do without even a carpentry workbench. Maybe it will come to all this when there is a taste for work and income from it. In the meantime, we will limit ourselves to the minimum that will allow us to work from a table on the balcony or in the garage, laying a film on the floor so as not to spread sawdust. And this minimum of a tool should be useful on the farm in general, suddenly (everyone has his own inclinations) the first stool will turn out to be the last.

So, for starters, in addition to an electric drill, you will need a pair of C-shaped carpentry clamps for 180-220 mm (top left in the figure), one (preferably 2) F-shaped for 400-500 mm, at the top center, and, preferably, clip-on clamp, top right. They will cost inexpensively, and the range of their application, in addition to carpentry, is very wide.

Buying a jigsaw, of course, would be nice; it is not so expensive and suitable for a wide variety of jobs. But at first, instead of it, you can use ... a frame hacksaw for metal; they go on sale as mini hacksaws. Just do not take entirely plastic ones (lower left in the figure, pos. a). This is a tool for rare occasional use. Such a miracle on the Internet can be found for as much as 18 rubles, but plastic sponges are quickly eaten up by the steel of the canvas, and a “super-cheap” hacksaw is not enough for a good stool. You need to take a mini-hacksaw with a steel frame, pos. b. It will cost about 50 rubles, but you can work with it for a long time and regularly.

For woodworking, the canvas is tucked into the frame hacksaw “incorrectly”, with the cutting edges of the teeth facing you (upper inset in pos. b). Then a section of the canvas in the frame can be sawn across the fibers, along and obliquely. In any case, the cut comes out even and smooth, literally mirror-like; when sawing in a layer, only under-dried or newly damp coniferous wood is slightly shaggy. Thus, for example, spikes are sawn under the groove, see below. Again, it is “wrong” to cut wood with a frame hacksaw, you can start from the corner, because. wood is softer than any structural metal.

The protruding section (console) of the canvas to conduct a curved cut is slower than a jigsaw, but, with some attention and accuracy, just as accurately. When working at home, it is advisable to fill the blade, as it should be in a locksmith's way, with the ridges of the teeth away from you so that the sawdust falls down, clogging the markings. In this case, you also need to cut in a locksmith's way: keep the tool even, without tilting along the cut, do not lean too much and give a swing (working stroke) no more than 1.5-2 widths of the blade. Also, the protruding ends of the dowels and through spikes are sawn off with a “wing” of the canvas no worse than with a special flexible saw, which is several times more expensive.

Next, wood files - rasps. You will need 2 of them: straight semicircular 200x20 mm, pos. c, etc. cabinet, also semicircular (250-300) x30 mm, pos. d. A cabinet rasp differs from a straight rasp not only in its narrowed end, but also in the way it is cut. Both of them have a notch, of course, not at all the same as that of metal files; those on the tree are instantly clogged with sawdust. Depending on the properties of the tree and the area to be treated (end, edge, face), it is more convenient to work with one or another rasp.

Then, chisels. We will need simple straight chisels to a tree with a width of 6-8 and 20 mm. It would also be nice to purchase a set of 6-40 mm chisels, from 3-5 samples. Often, a wooden hammer is attached to a set of chisels - a mallet, which otherwise needs to be bought separately. However, a mallet, like a clamp-clothes peg, can be made with your own hands from hard, small-layer wood.

About stool sizes

The dimensions of the stool seat, as a rule, are taken in the range from 300x300 to 450x450 mm or, if the stool is round, of the same diameter. Minimum - 250x250 mm; sitting on a plank of 200 mm is already uncomfortable, after 5-15 minutes the edges of even a soft, but too narrow seat also crash into an extensive elastic “fifth point”.

The total height of the stool is taken, according to height, in the range of 420-480 mm. The height of a children's or household stool can be reduced to 260-280 mm; in this case, the seat is also made approximately 260x260 mm or 270-280 mm in diameter.

Note: when designing a stool on your own, it should be remembered that the contour of its supporting surface must be at least 280x280 mm or a diameter of 320 mm for a stool of normal height and at least 250x250 mm or a diameter of 290 mm for a stool of reduced height, otherwise both will turn out to be unstable. For decorative and folding stools, these values ​​can be reduced by 1.25 times.

Of three parts

Yes, a good stool, incl. decorative in the living room, can be assembled from just 3 parts. Drawings of a product of this kind (pedestal stools) are given on the left in fig. The 4-piece option is unsightly, but very durable, therefore it is more suitable as a working stool: you can attach a removable vise to it, drill, saw, chop, etc. In this case, it is better to take the overall dimensions of the 4-piece stool as minimal as possible, see above.

The sample on the left in Fig. - one of the very few types of stools that can be made entirely from chipboard with a thickness of 20 mm or more; the width of the connecting grooves in the details corresponds to the thickness of the material. The base is assembled on glue (carpentry, nitro-glue for wood, PVA or polymer for tiles like bustilat). Seat fasteners - wood screws or confirmatory screws (60-90) x6 mm. Screw connections also with gluing.

The fact is that chipboard really “does not like” loads on the layer and fastening to the end. In this design, the loads concentrated at the attachment points spread well and, with proper assembly, delamination of the material is unlikely. But on the heels of the legs, it is still highly desirable to stick overlays made of solid dense wood (oak, beech, hornbeam) with a thickness of 10 mm or more. Rubber - no need, it will stain and spoil the floor.

3 to 5

The variant of the supporting structure of the stool, shown on the right in the figure, allows, on the one hand, to get rid of the rather laborious and responsible cutting of long even grooves, which is especially important when working with a hand saw. On the other hand, it allows you to get legs of a rather bizarre shape without a significant increase in material waste, because. blanks are marked with minimal technological gaps on a board 200-250 mm wide.

The "highlight" here is that 2 of the 3 parts of the previous design (namely, the legs) are "halved" along. The base is assembled in a cross (diagram at the top right) similarly to the previous one. option, i.e. with gluing of all joints:

• Drill holes for self-tapping screws; holes for fastener heads can be omitted.
• Dry assembly is carried out and, if necessary, fitting of parts.
• 3-4 drops of glue are introduced into the holes for fasteners and smeared inside with a thin splinter.
• Apply adhesive to mating surfaces.
• Withstand parts until the glue sticks on visible surfaces.
• Quickly and tightly collect the entire assembly on the hardware.

Also pay attention to the side surface, marked with the letter A. Before installing the seat, you can put on a round shell rolled from thin fiberboard on it. They put the shell on glue and small hardware (self-tapping screws, nails). After assembling and finishing the entire product, the shell can be decorated, incl. very spectacular stucco molding from polymer clay and get a truly luxurious stool.

4 details

Box-shaped stools-benches made of 4 boards (seat, 2 sidewalls-legs and a vertical longitudinal insert-support beam, on the left in the figure) are widely known and described many times. However, such a stool is simple and cheap only in appearance: for proper strength and reliability, its parts must be cut out of a block of durable wood or chipboard with a thickness of 40 mm and a width of 250 mm. Both materials are not cheap, their trimmings suitable for a stool most often do not go to waste and it is not easy to find them for sale or in your own pantry.

Meanwhile, an economic-working stool-bench can be made literally from improvised materials, scraps of timber from 30x30 and plywood from 2.5 mm as follows, on the right in the figure:

1. Segments of the beam are rallied into shields (leg blanks) end-to-end on glue, as described below;
2. One side of each shield is glued under pressure (compression with clamps) with plywood;
3. Angular grooves are cut out in the blanks of the legs for the same beam and holes are selected with a chisel for the screed from it;
4. Paste over with plywood the front sides of the legs in the same way as according to paragraph 2;
5. Assemble the supporting box of the stool on glue and self-tapping screws;
6. They fix the seat, which in this case can be made of plywood from 6 mm or boards from 12 mm. You can simply put the seat on the glue, all operational loads and so the box takes over.

simple kitchen

A simple full-size household stool can also be made from scraps of timber, plywood or chipboard, see fig. It is more suitable for seasonal dachas. When used in the kitchen of a residential building, the design turns out to be rather weak, there this stool lasts for 3-5 years. The second option for using the same design is a smaller children's stool, see above; the dimensions of the parts are then proportionally reduced, except for the width of the connecting grooves.

footing

The footstool, on 2 pairs of X-shaped legs, is also quite popular due to its low material consumption and good decorative qualities. However, in reality, it turns out to be not so simple.

Take a look at the sub-assembly marked in red in the fragment at the top left of fig. To perform a strong and reliable tie-in of 3 bars in 2 mutually perpendicular planes is not an easy task for an experienced carpenter; putting a dowel there will be unreliable, and the self-tapping screw in this case is outright hack: the double crosshair is heavily loaded and the steel hardware will go to tear the tree.

These problems can be circumvented by combining the beam and box-shaped power schemes of the supporting structure. We will leave the openwork of the beam frame in the most noticeable place - below - and we will achieve overall strength with an “oak” box-shaped top. Technically, this is obtained by reducing the angle between the legs to 60 degrees. Then, in order to maintain the total height of the stool and the width of the contour of the supporting surface within acceptable limits, the crosshairs of the legs are shifted upwards. The V-shaped part of the now asymmetrical X is high enough and wide enough that a sturdy box can be made of 20 mm or thicker pine board, chipboard or plywood, see left in fig.

Note: the missing overall dimensions can be taken from the figure, it is drawn to scale.

The longitudinal walls of the box need not be sloped; this is done to reduce the visibility of the box while maintaining its maximum volume. If the longitudinal walls of the box are straight, it can be made narrower, so long as the V-shaped part of the legs fits inside. It also does not hurt to deepen the box by sliding its bottom down, the whole stool will only be stronger. In this case, 1-2 attachment points are added on the Λ-shaped parts of the legs, similar to the V-shaped part, marked in green in fig. The box is assembled on dowels (see below) and glue or on steel corners applied from the inside. In this case, the box is first glued, and after 1/4-1/3 of the time of complete curing of the glue, it is finally fastened with steel.

The bottom of the box is sewn up with fiberboard; under the seat, a capacious drawer for useful trash is formed: the supporting structure gives the stool full strength and its seat can be removed or folded down. The last option is better, because the stool, rearranging, is taken by the seat. The folding seat is fastened with a piano loop or a pair of small card loops. The lock in the lowered position is any suitable one: a tight ball latch, a hook and bracket on the underside of the seat, up to a secret lock, if you so desire.

When making this stool, you will have to master at least one joinery and carpentry connection - a half-wood tie-in, this is how the parts of the legs are connected. To embed 2 pieces of wood into each other, using a milling cutter, as they would say in America, can, and the youngest daughter of President Obama (grandmother Jane Psaki is a lady, they say, sensible and skillful). With a simple hand tool, a half-tree tie-in is performed by making cuts according to the markup and choosing a surplus between them. Working “only with hands”, it is necessary to take a closer look at how the layers of wood go on both sides and put a chisel to knock out the excess, so that the chip does not go deep into the mass of material, see above in fig. The rest is obtained with the same chisel, acting like a chisel, without hitting with a mallet, and, if necessary, smoothing the bottom of the groove with a rasp. It is not necessary to smooth it clean with sandpaper, rough surfaces on the glue will hold on tighter.

Note: Please note that the details of the legs of the foot stool are a mirror image of each other both horizontally and vertically, at the bottom right in Fig. If you do not have experience in design work or a naturally developed (convex, as they say) spatial imagination, it will be useful to first model the legs to scale or life size, assembling their models from 2 layers of cardboard.

More connections

So we have already stumbled upon a dowel connection, one of the most common in carpentry. In the future, we will need an equally common thorn-groove connection. How they are performed is shown in Fig. There is little left to add to it.

First, when choosing a surplus from the groove (pos. 1d), it is not necessary to bring it to full squareness. It is better to leave the edges (short sides) of the groove rounded, and round the edges of the tenon accordingly, so the whole connection will be stronger.

Secondly, the spike does not have to be done on a router at all, it will not take much longer to cut it out manually with the same frame hacksaw. First, at the level of the base of the spike, the workpiece is sawn across along the contour by 0.5-1 mm less than the required depth, stepping back from the marking to the end of the workpiece by 0.5-1 mm. It’s also not a big sin to drive to the full depth, but then a small narrow groove will remain along the contour of the base of the spike. If you don’t finish it a little, then the base of the spike will be slightly broadened due to the elasticity of the tree, and the whole connection will again be stronger.

The spike is finally sawn from the end along the fibers, retreating 0.5-1 mm outward from the markup. Here, for the same reason, the gash is also not brought to the end by 1-1.5 mm, and the excess is simply broken off. If the wood is straight-grained coniferous, the excess at a certain moment will crunch itself and hang on the fibers or fall off. Bring the spike to size and round off its edges with a rasp.

Note: when developing wooden structures on your own, do not forget - all spikes should be directed only and only along the layer! The tenon thickness for ordinary commercial wood, unless otherwise indicated on the drawings, is taken by default at 1/3 of the thickness of the thinnest of the mating parts.

As for the dowels (round connecting bosses), it is better to buy ready-made wooden ones. The cost of finished dowels is cheap, they are already chamfered and corrugated, which makes the glued connection stronger. Plastic dowels do not dry out with wood and therefore the connection weakens over time.

The main rule when choosing dowels is that their wood should dry out a little slower than the structural one or at the same speed; this condition is almost always satisfied if the dowel wood is harder. Drying out of the dowel is difficult, because. its contact with air is limited. The part, drying out, will compress the dowel; her and dowel lignin are gradually "soldered" and the connection becomes stronger over time.

The diameter of the dowels is taken 2.5-3 times less than the thickness of the narrowest of the parts to be joined; its length is 1.75 times the thickness of the thinnest part. The last dowel (if it is not through) should enter 2/3-3/4 of its thickness, and its remainder should sit thicker in the part.

Note: holes for blind dowels in thin boards are selected so-called. Forstner drill, see below, leaving behind an almost flat bottom.

Also a useful stool

Well, how do you undertake to make a spike-groove with your hands? Then it's time to take on a simple folding wooden stool, see fig., for a summer residence, a garden, a picnic. 2-3 of these stools will not take up much space in the closet and fit in the trunk of a car. Material - board or plywood. It is highly desirable to impregnate all parts from the latter before assembling the product with a water-polymer emulsion, it will not only protect against moisture and rot, but also strengthen the structure.

How to make a capture

Taking a folding stool with a round seat just by the seat is not very convenient, so the grip for the hand on the sample above is not a whim. In a solid board, the grip is cut out as usual: holes are drilled along its edges with a pen or core drill (diameter - 24-36 mm; distance between centers 95-115 mm, looking at the hand), and the excess between them is cut out. In this case, it is also convenient to use a frame hacksaw.

Another thing is if the capture falls on the junction of the boards; most often this happens in classic kitchen stools, see below. At this point, the beak of the pen or the pioneer drill / guide pin of the crown, when working with a hand drill, will definitely go along the groove and the drill will lead to the right. A conductor made of thick plywood or trimming the board does not help, the thin sidewall of the feather or the teeth of the crown tear it, and cling to the steel conductor themselves.

It is for such cases, as well as for drilling holes with a flat bottom, that the Forstner drill is intended, see Fig., Its lateral surface is smooth. When making a manual grip in the stool seat, they first drill holes in the conductor according to the above dimensions; left over! Then the conductor is applied in place, securely fastened with a pair of C-clamps, and edge holes are drilled. The surpluses in the details are chosen as always, the gap between the boards is not an obstacle for this.

real kitchen

Now we have classic kitchen stools in line. They get more than others in the process of use, therefore, their design is carried out according to all the rules of strength: a rigid beam frame that alone can withstand all operational loads, and a seat that must hold firmly in place, but so that, if necessary, it can be easily repaired or replace. Therefore, the seat of the kitchen stool is made of shield boards from cohesive planks (see below) and is attached to the breadcrumbs or directly to the frame on the dowels.

The variant with breadcrumbs is shown in fig; pos. A - its general scheme and the names of its components. The advantage of this design is the low quality requirements for the seat shield. By installing a pair of crackers on each drawer (this will not reduce the overall strength of the product), you can make the seat generally from separate boards, and on the original 4 crackers - plywood or chipboard.

Pay attention to the drawers, these are not just boards, they are all the time in furniture, and not only in furniture. The drawer in general is a part that properly distributes the load in the assembly and is itself capable of carrying the load. Drawers can be found in the distillation cube, pipelines, etc., which have nothing to do with furniture.

Also pay attention to pos. E, it shows a way to check the evenness of pairs of legs with diagonals; it is basically the same as checking the squareness of the foundation. The evenness of the pairs during the assembly of the classic stool is checked three times, see fig. right: in pairs assembled individually (left pos. and red lines), between pairs (orange lines in the central pos.) and the overall squareness of the frame (brown lines in the center). The seat is installed only after a complete check of evenness; sawing the legs of a finished stool is utter unprofessionalism.

Below in fig. - drawings of a stool for the kitchen with a seat mounted on dowels. Such a design is less laborious and material-intensive, because there are no operations for the manufacture and installation of crackers, but the seat shield must be firmly cohesive, see below. If fittings are installed on the legs, they should not reach the floor by 20-40 mm so as not to scratch it.

Note: spike cuts at 45 degrees in both cases are made with the same frame hacksaw. A fixed miter box (device for sawing at an angle) at fixed angles of 90, 45 and 60 degrees costs no more than 50 rubles.

How to rally the boards into a shield

The boards, which will now be the plots of the set (package), are usually rallied into shields on glue using special clips - wym, at the top left in fig. In wimms, small additionally fixed shields, as for a stool seat, can be rallied just end-to-end. Large shields, say, for a tabletop or sidewall of a cabinet, are rallied (middle row from left to right) with a tongue, in a fold, on dowels, dowels (lamellas), and in other ways.

Clamps in handicraft work are sometimes replaced with various home-made devices on the same principle (compressing a set with pairs of wedges), at the top right, and now more and more often with large F-shaped clamps. In this case, a rather laborious preparation of plots for rallying according to methods a, c, or d is necessary. it is impossible to achieve an absolutely accurate pairing of wooden parts under load due to the low local strength of the wood.

However, there is a way to rally the shield on the stool seat end-to-end completely smooth and without complicated fixtures, this is the so-called. twisted wyma with cheek pads; its diagram is shown below in Fig. Step-by-step rallying of the shield in a twisted clamp is carried out as follows:

1. The lower (according to the scheme) plywood cheek is placed on the table;
2. The table with a cheek is covered with plastic wrap;
3. Glue is applied to the edges of the plots and kept until tack-free or according to the instructions of the glue;
4. The plots are laid on the lower cheek over the film and, if possible, tightly squeezed by hand;
5. Wrap the set with foil;
6. Impose the upper cheek;
7. The whole package is carefully, without lifting or turning over, shifted to the edge of the table so that some part of the set hangs over the floor;
8. They start winding with a cord, applying turns as tightly as possible, but not quite too tight;
9. When the package is wrapped about 1/3 or more, it can be removed from the table and winded on weight;
10. The ends of the cord are tied;
11. Wedges are inserted under the winding, tapping with a mallet. 4 wedges are needed, they are injected evenly from 4 sides (2 from above and 2 from below), tapping alternately;
12. When the wedges stretch all the turns of the winding tightly evenly, the package is left until the glue dries completely;
13. After the glue dries, the winding, cheeks and film are removed, the set is cut to size.

The cross section of the wedges need not be rectangular; it is possible to use obliquely cut round sticks; there is only one condition - the wedges are needed smooth. It is desirable to use a slippery propylene cord, packing twine is suitable. The thickness of the wedges is determined based on experience. If there is none, then the package is first assembled dry, without glue, and the thickness of the wedges is selected so that they completely fit under the winding, tightly pulling its turns.

How about softer? DIY stool covers

Long sit on the hard, of course, unpleasant. A comfortable stool on the frame of a classic kitchen can be made with a wicker seat, without fooling around with breadcrumbs, dowels and a shield, see fig. The seat material is colored polypropylene twine and a smooth linen cord.

It is highly desirable to have decorative stools in the living room with beautiful soft ones, and it will not hurt to give a kitchen stool a gloss. But there is not and cannot be a stool on which no one would ever set foot. Or, at least, did not feel an acute desire to do this for quite objective reasons caused by the circumstances. Hence the conclusion: the stool needs a soft, elegant pad on the seat - a seat - which, if necessary, could be removed without fiddling for a long time, and just as quickly placed back.

The first thing that comes to mind in this case is a decorative pillow, see for example. video below. But the pillow can be accidentally dumped on the floor, and she herself will slowly slide there. Another option is a soft case. A cover for a chair or armchair is a rather complicated garment, but with a stool the situation is simpler.

Video: decorative pillow on a stool / chair

Covers for stools are made mainly of the following types, see fig. Pos. 1 - cape with ties. Sewing this one is the easiest, but the ties stick out in plain sight, and there is a lot of fuss with them, especially if the stool is for children and the kid has something to think with knots.

The next option is a cape with an elastic band. She can look great, pos. 2, and you can remove it by simply pulling it off. The structure of the cape on the stool is generally the same as the permanent upholstery: foam rubber, padding polyester and upholstery fabric from the bottom up, but there are a couple of tricks.

Firstly, it is better to take foam rubber from PVC, yellowish soft, pos. 3. It is not suitable for permanent furniture upholstery, because relatively short lived. But in the case of a stool, another feature comes to the fore: it adheres well to wood, incl. lacquered, so that the cape will not slip to the side and under the angry rider.

Secondly, it is better to cut the cover for a square stool diagonally, i.e. The warp and weft of the fabric should go from corner to corner. In this case, cutting as such is not needed: the cut is thrown onto the seat (folds are obtained at the same time beautiful and smoothly fitting corners), where they mark where to cut, cut and sew.

Note: a cover for a round stool must already be cut; an example of its manufacture - see the video below:

Video: do-it-yourself simple cover for a round stool

An option that is also quite soft, original, beautiful and tenacious to wood is a rug for a stool using the patchwork technique, i.e. patchwork, pos. 4; see e.g. plot:

Video: seat mat on a stool using the patchwork technique

Finally, a knitted cape, pos. 5. This option is labor intensive and almost exclusively decorative. It allows you to achieve a magnificent visual effect, but, alas, a knitted cape will retain its appearance for a long time only on a stool that is not being sat on.

In conclusion: immediately aerobatics

Very elegant stools with divergent legs. It is generally accepted that they are not amateur products. The reason is drilling holes at exactly the right angle; see for an example in fig. drawings of details of a stool on turned legs. Here, firstly, you can not do without a drilling machine. A relatively inexpensive table-top frame for a drill does not help out: the shaft holder in it is too short, which is why, in combination with a plastic case, the drill leads by half a degree, or even more. Such an error is enough for the stool to come out crooked and wobbly.

Secondly, fitting the details of a stool of this design during the assembly process is excluded, everything must be done immediately exactly in size from solid high-quality wood. See the steel plate at the bottom right in the pic? This is a gauge for checking the diameter of the spikes. In this case, they, regardless of the design and overall design, are required to be round, i.e. You also need a wood lathe.

Now let's go back to the 3 to 5 stool. Let's reduce the size r to 100 mm, this is acceptable. Is it possible now to make this stool with divergent legs? Quite. Of course, they will not be chiseled and not quite round, but the grace and lightness of the stool will be preserved. This is what the aesthetic potential of a stool means in practice.

The interior of a house or apartment cannot be imagined without a stool. This is one of the simplest and most comfortable pieces of furniture. Most often they are purchased in furniture stores-salons. However, you can make such a product yourself at home. This will require the availability of special materials and tools, as well as certain skills and knowledge.

How to make a wooden stool with your own hands

Ordinary wooden stools are considered a simple type of furniture. They can be quickly built in a short period.

Drawings and diagrams

First you need to draw up a sketch drawing of the future piece of furniture. In this case, it is required to accurately calculate all the dimensions of the stool. An example diagram is shown in the picture.

The drawers indicated in the diagram are boards or bars that are under the seat and connect the legs together with spiked parts. This allows you to install a reliable support for the seats. Prolegs are necessary to increase the rigidity and strength of the entire structure. They are located at the bottom of the legs or their middle.

They also provide a tongue-and-groove connection. The dimensions of these parts must also be taken into account.

To process the edges of boards, plywood and timber, a manual milling machine equipped with a set of different cutters is used. With it, you can still drill holes or carefully select grooves and grooves on all parts.

In order to increase the smoothness of the wood, sandpaper is used. However, the easiest way to get by is with a grinder, which is equipped with several circles of different grain sizes. Such a device will save time and effort.

As an alternative to a manual hacksaw, it is preferable to use an electric jigsaw. It allows you to make neat and even edges of parts, and also saves time.

A screwdriver is required to tighten the fasteners and make holes. It is necessary to pre-select a number of drills of various diameters and screwdriver bits for it. A drill can also be used for this purpose.

It is required to have a sufficient set of clamps on hand. When gluing the boards into a single panel, it is necessary to compress them as much as possible and hold them in this state for a certain time. That is what they are for.

Other tools used include:

• chisels;
• a hammer;
• electric or manual planer;
• roulette;
• wooden ruler 50–100 cm;
• thickness gauge;
• square for construction;
• pencil;
• wood glue;
• self-tapping screws.

The following materials are involved in the work:

1. Four carefully crafted smooth leg bars. Their height is 48.5 cm, and the cross section is 50X50 mm. They can be either straightened or narrowed down cuts from the inside.
2. 4 drawers and prolegs each, made of timber 44.1 cm long and 30x30 mm in section. Only 4 drawers of the same length and section 30x60 mm can be used.
3. A beam of 30X30 mm to create "crackers", if they need to be made. These are boards, bars or metal products that are fastened diagonally at the inner corners under the seat and fixed on the legs and sides.
4. 2-4 boards with a thickness of 12-20 mm. Their dimensions should be 450X112.5 mm or 450X225 mm. You can replace it with a plywood panel of the same thickness and with dimensions of 450x450 mm.
5. Dowels (chopics) made of wood for attaching the seat to its base. Their number is 4 pieces, the length is 3 cm, and the diameter is 0.8-1.0 cm.

Step-by-step instruction

The procedure is performed according to the following organism:

1. If the seat is made of several parts, you need to glue the boards. Their end sides are carefully sanded and treated with glue, and then connected together and tightened with clamps. The glue needs to dry well.
   
2. Move on to creating bars for the legs. They should have clear, smooth cuts, their length is the same and range from 45 to 50 cm.
   
3. Markings are made on the legs and a site for the selection of connection grooves is found in order to install the tsargs and spikes of the prolegs in them. Holes are selected using a chisel or milling machine.
   
4. They begin to work out the edges of the prolegs and the tsarg. Spikes are made on them, all dimensions of which are 1-1.5 mm smaller than the groove slots made for them on the legs. The spikes should go into the grooves freely, but firmly.
   
5. The legs are knocked together in pairs, connecting together with tsargs and prolegs. It is necessary to glue their spike parts into the grooves of the legs. All formed frames are pulled with clamps. When the products dry out, they are connected into a common structure using prongs and drawers. After that, they are pressed again with clamps until complete drying. When this happens, all connections are fixed with self-tapping screws.
6. If the stool is equipped with crackers, they are attached to the stool legs and drawers.
   
7. The seat is marked and fixed. For this purpose, it is necessary to apply glue on the reverse side of the panel, lay it on the prepared stool base, level it and press it firmly. Then, one hole is made in the corners through the panel. Their diameter should exceed that of the manufactured dowels by 1–2 mm. Their depth should be 5 mm less than the length of the chopsticks. Glue is poured into the gap, after which the dowels are driven in. The glue will begin to show, and it is immediately wiped off. The upper part of the chopik is removed with a milling machine, the cut is polished to make it smooth. After that, the sides, together with the seat, are tightened with clamps until the glue is completely dry. Until this happens, the stool cannot be used.

Folding stool

Such a model is a little more difficult to pick up. However, it is more convenient to use the finished product.

Necessary tools and materials

To work, you need to find a panel with dimensions of 1120X400X24 mm. Also, in the design of a folding stool, equipment and materials such as:

• 4 furniture hinges-butterflies with dimensions of 350x400 mm in the open state;
• wood glue;
• self-tapping screws 15–20 mm long;
• a stud, on which threads are cut on both sides and there are end nuts measuring 250X8 mm for through placement, or a stud with blunt edges for fixing in blind grooves;
• choppers or dowels 50X8 mm;
• stain or tinting or colorless varnish.

Step by step instructions for making

The design of the folding stool is as follows:

1. In the upper part of the seat, a curved through hole is made 12 cm long and 20–25 mm wide. Such dimensions allow you to comfortably hold the product with your hand.. The hole is made with a milling machine or two holes are made, each 25 mm in diameter, spaced 120 mm apart. Then they are connected together, removing the wood connecting them with a jigsaw. The edges need to be processed so that they are smooth.
   
2. The edge parts of the seat and the inner sides of the gap are smoothed with a semicircular cutter or rasp, and then with sandpaper of different grain sizes.
   
3. They proceed to the processing of the manufactured bars of the legs. On two of them, where the outer frame will be located, a groove of 180X8 mm and a depth of 42 mm is made. Inside it will be a hairpin. On the two remaining bars, through slots of 8 mm in diameter are made. A pin will go through them.
   
4. The grooves are usually cut with a milling machine. It is also allowed to pre-draw a line and drill holes there, which are then connected with a jigsaw. When working, the bar must be tightly fixed in a vice.
   
5. The bars for the narrow inner frame need to be carefully cut at the top at a 30-degree angle. It is necessary to carry out this stage of work as accurately as possible. At the bottom of the legs, slightly twist the edges and corners.
   
6. The crossbars located between the legs are attached to the chopsticks glued into the holes made. A jumper for glue is placed in its place, the legs are pulled with clamps until completely dry. After that, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are made, deepened into the end parts of the jumpers by 2-2.5 cm. The holes for glue are carefully driven into the chopsticks. There should be two fasteners on each of the jumper sides.
   
7. On the back of the seat, mark the places where the butterfly loops are located. Then they are placed in the indicated place and outlined. At this point, a landing nest is found with a depth that matches the thickness of the loop. When it is fixed, it should be flush with the wooden main surface.
   
8. Loops are fixed on the end upper sides of the legs. They are connected with screws. Their hats should be located in the same plane with the loop surface. Then the other side of the loops is fixed in the nests made for them on the reverse surface of the seat.
   
9. In order to give the design accuracy, you should close the hairpin with a wooden or plastic tube. Its length is 6.8 cm, diameter is 9 mm, and the wall thickness varies from 0.2 to 1 cm.
   
10. The pin is placed in a narrower frame through a decorative fabricated tube, and its edges are inserted into the grooves from the outer frame, which is wider. They will move along these grooves when unfolding and folding furniture.
    

Options for making covers for stools

To make homemade stool covers, you will need the following materials and tools:

• textile elastic band 2–3 cm wide;
• a piece of chalk or soap for marking;
• pin;
• fabric (10 cm more than the total surface area);
• threads in the color of the fabric background;
• ruler;
• sewing machine.

The lining is best made of soft, pleasant to the touch textiles, which will better repeat the shape of the furniture. Foam rubber 3–4 cm high is used as a filler. The thickness of the filler for chairs should be 6–7 cm.

Alternatives:

• woolen fabric;
• thick or thin felt;
• synthetic winterizer;
• unnecessary pieces of flaps.

Before starting to create covers, you should draw textile patterns with soap, leaving a release of 10 cm. The procedure consists of the following steps:

Other decor ideas

If there is a tapestry on the cover with an image in its middle, you can place a floral pattern with flowers. Due to the fact that the combinations of shades do not look bright, this option will not be pretentious, but stylish.

The seats can be decorated with embroidery on the cover. By the type of tapestry, a large flower made in the satin stitch technique will look nice. An interesting option is an ornament along the perimeter or a picture of an abstract type. Use strong non-fading threads that will not wear out due to frequent washing.

Kitchen stools can be varnished or painted to match the seats. It is preferable to do this before sewing, so that the thing has time to dry on all sides. It is better to apply paint or varnish in two layers.

Knowing how to make a wooden stool with your own hands, you can create beautiful furniture and save money.

A stool is the most common piece of furniture in apartments and houses. The reason for this is the cramped living space or the versatility of this backless chair is not known for certain. But a rare family can do without a couple of durable and solid stools in everyday life. Due to mobility, this piece of furniture is loved and appreciated, because it can be used not only as a chair, but also as a stepladder, serving table, bedside table, the limits of operation are limited only by the owner's imagination. And the best part: a fairly presentable and durable stool can be made with your own hands, this will save money, increase self-esteem, and simplify the everyday side of life (Fig. 1).

Figure 1. A simple version of a stool is 4 legs and a seat measuring 30x30 cm.

If you are looking for information on how to make a stool, you are new to the tricky business of making furniture. In order for the end result of your efforts to fully meet your expectations, choose simple models, follow the instructions, listen to the advice of experienced craftsmen.

Figure 2. Tongue and groove connection is resistant to wobble, shear, compression, but not tension.

1. Do not choose models in which there is a tongue-and-groove connection (Fig. 2). Without sufficient skills, you will not be able to correctly assemble such a stool, and you will end up with an unstable and, accordingly, non-functional item.
2. Do not use chipboard for manufacturing. This material is quite fragile, does not fix screws well and crumbles on contact with hard surfaces.

So, after a brief educational program has been learned, you can begin to make an important piece of furniture with your own hands.

Materials and tools

Figure 3. Drawing of a stool.

To make a stool quickly and efficiently, you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• drill;
• drill;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• corner and ruler;
• pencil;
• furniture varnish.

You can talk endlessly about the quality of the tool, and everyone selects models in accordance with their own needs. All tools must be durable, comfortable and suitable for woodworking.

The best material for the manufacture of stools and other pieces of furniture designed to withstand significant weight is solid wood.

Figure 4. The design of the stool.

It will withstand the load, and will delight with naturalness and a beautiful natural pattern. So, you will need:

1. Bar 30 * 30 mm - 4 pcs., For the manufacture of legs.
2. A board of arbitrary size, but not too large, 20-25 mm thick is the future seat. To make the instruction clear, take a board 145 * 300 mm. - 2 pcs. or 300*300 mm - 1 pc.
3. Plywood 12 mm. For connecting plates.
4. Pack of screws 40 mm long.
5. Furniture glue.
6. Sandpaper of large and small fractions.
7. Acrylic lacquer in your preferred or suitable shade.

You may be interested in: Connecting an electric stove to different types of electrical networks

If for the first time you are faced with the need or desire to make a stool or other furniture with your own hands, do not rush to immediately proceed to the most interesting. Check your calculations several times, check the drawings and pre-plan the joints, this will avoid repeated repetition of the same actions and damage to the material.

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Instructions for making a stool with 4 legs

Figure 5. Sketches of plywood chairs and stools.

So, all the tools are prepared, the materials are purchased or found in the bins, you can proceed to the creative and practical part (Fig. 3).

1. If you have one wooden beam, you need to make 4 legs from it or bring all existing ones into line. The optimal height is 430 mm.
2. The next step is to prepare the future seat. If you managed to find a board with a width of 300 mm, you will greatly simplify your task, cut off a part also 300 mm long, that is, you should get an almost finished square-shaped seat. If you couldn’t find a wide enough board, cut out 2 parts 145 * 300, they will serve as a seat.
3. From plywood, you need to make 4 parts with a size of 100 * 270 mm - these are fixing strips. On the long side of the part with a hacksaw, you need to make 2 grooves 12 * 50 mm. The distance to the edge of the bar is 30 mm. This design will serve as a stiffener, securely fix the legs and make the stool stable.
4. The blanks are in your hands, you can go directly to the assembly of the stool. Assemble the plywood parts into a single square structure by connecting them with grooves.
5. Using screws, connect the legs and the frame, having previously drilled pilot holes. For better fixation of the joint, it is necessary to coat with glue.
6. Attach the seat to the frame with legs according to the proposed scheme, not forgetting to glue all the joints with glue (Fig. 4).
7. Using sandpaper, first coarse, then fine, carefully sand all the details, paying special attention to the joints and places that the seated person will come into contact with.
8. Coat the stool with 2 coats of lacquer, leaving enough time to dry completely. And your new, hand-made stool is ready.