Receiver from a fire extinguisher for a vacuum pump. How to assemble an electric air compressor yourself

Good afternoon! In this article, using the example of my compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.

Main elements

The first step is to draw up the technical requirements for our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new double action airbrush, a compressor with a receiver was needed. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. In European countries, many people use such an airbrush along with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable, we leave the economic side of this matter aside. Air tank - receiver- allows you to collect air like such a balloon. If air is continuously injected into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may not withstand and the hose will fly out. To get a blown out hose on any part of the body is very painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.

The main thing is actually compressor. We will use a refrigerator compressor. Like a "pot" - because, compressors of the "cylinder" type can no longer be found during the day with fire, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sites for the sale of refrigeration equipment. Probably, their price will be the main criterion, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. On purchase - you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and they work only on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model, and write out the name of the company that produces it, you can use ctrl + c, you can use a piece of paper. And go to the manufacturer's website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I got is Danfoss, on their website you can download a pdf-file with a technical description of the compressor. Download MOT necessarily, we need it!

Let's go back to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. I’ll make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a flagrant violation of safety regulations! Consider containers:

Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide choice of capacity - 3,5,10 l. - just enough to get (you can buy, you can get "exhausted"). However, it has one significant disadvantage - a metric thread at the inlet. I used exactly that.

Option two- hydraulic accumulator. A decent choice of capacity, however has a small working pressure. At the entrance - a convenient 1 inch thread. Requires fine-tuning before use, because inside it is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. It needs to be pulled out. Get it - just buy it in a construction hypermarket or at a construction market.

Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples can hold a huge amount of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity, or heavy, massive ones for welding work are available, and it is extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some of the medical equipment (I'm afraid it's very expensive ), you can arrange an oxygen bar before assembly !!! =)))

Option four- cylinders from various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, they say that the use of compressed air is not recommended.

Connecting links between reducer and receiver, air preparation unit

Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver are defined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the node that is attached directly to the receiver and provides air distribution between the lines (it should be mentioned that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver, I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor is turned off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turn it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - the best option is the RDM-5 relay for plumbing systems. It is very easy to find, it is sold in most plumbing stores. It is necessary to pay attention - the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for an external thread of 1 inch.

Thirdly, it is necessary to indicate the pressure in the receiver. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have a connection size of 1. Important - you need a static device.

The fourth is an air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a reducer is needed. The reducer must have a pressure regulation limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. Also, it is necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value of the regulated pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Since, even particles of compressor oil can fly from the receiver. Attention - in no case do not buy a filter lubricator - it performs a diametrically opposite function.

Fifth - consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of the fittings is 1 inch, in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to build a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
After looking at all the details and assemblies, we will make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this:

Now let's think about the placement of the whole structure. As an option - ordinary chipboard plates. In order not to drag the entire structure around the apartment of the garage workshop with matyugs, we will provide roller legs that are easy to find in any furniture store. So that the installation does not take up much space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, we will draw the following scheme:

You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. Also nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.

• Compressor - 1 pc.
• Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
• Pressure switch - 1 pc.
• Manometer - 1 pc.
• Filter reducer - 1 pc.
• Emergency valve -1pc.
• Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
• Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
• Cables, switch, plug + various small things for their installation and connection.
• Flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant) with a diameter matching the outside diameter of the air outlet fitting on the compressor.
• Chipboard-plate for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.

Let's start assembling!

Compressor assembly

So, running around the shops is over, we have drawn a diagram, we are starting a vertex =). The first difficulty - which I encountered - was the node at the outlet of the fire extinguisher. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly, and find a welder to weld the desired fitting adapter. Due to haste, I did not want to look for someone, so I acted simply - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics, I removed the control element). An adapter with a 1-inch female thread came up to one of the outlets, and an adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed into the other with a creak. Hand on heart - this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was done in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. Still, it’s better to weld a new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not quite according to the rules ...).

The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a water pipe wrench, fum-tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently freezes - if you want to do it for centuries - do not regret it!), And twist the adapters according to the plan planned in advance. An important note - in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to wrap everything “to a creak” - according to the law of meanness - tees and turns will never reach the desired angle. We mount a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must necessarily be accompanied by fitting to the receiver-fire extinguisher.

Carpenter versus carpenter

"Viper with wheels here ku!"
kf "Kin-dza-dza"

The second stage of assembly is carpentry work. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stocks” and screwed furniture wheels on self-tapping screws to them, having previously drilled seats for them with a thin drill (this way they are screwed exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you are guaranteed attention and an interested reaction from your family (from the category of bad advice, it would be worth leaving a postscript “never repeat this on your own”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. Approximately in the middle of each stud, I screwed the nuts, measured the perforated tape with a margin (so that it turned out to be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and lifted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all the bitten places of the punched tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or process it so that there are no sharp edges and burrs.

After positioning the fire extinguisher, I put two more perforated tapes on top and fixed it with nuts.
If you use a prepared accumulator as a receiver, then most of the small (5, 6, 8 l.) models of the “horizontal” type have wonderful brackets-paws at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and the compressor can be placed on the upper ones.

In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the compressor legs (there are a lot of them), and, maintaining the geometry, we mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It's okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever necessary I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We put the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I adapted ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, building a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers.

We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something rests, or is simply poorly located, the design can be changed. After fitting - fasten. Using a flexible hose, fum-tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a snug fit of the hose - otherwise it can poison and splash oil on the compressor side, and poison air on the side of the air distribution module.

I sing the electric body. Final touches and...

"Mahmud, set fire!"
kf "White Sun of the Desert"

First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor, which we consider as an example, uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide starting the drive can vary greatly between models.
Now the most important thing - you need to work with the connection diagram of the installation. There are several pitfalls here:

1. The compressor is torn out of the usual wiring diagram. To make it work, you need to install a jumper.
2. It is advisable to provide for protective elements (circuit breaker) - a moot point, in principle, in case of any excesses, the machine should work on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - it is not necessary to install another machine, in my opinion.
3. The connection line must necessarily go through the relay and the switch.
4. Sometimes, a capacitor must be connected to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.

The connection must be made according to the following scheme:

From the plug-plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, if the latter is not present, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (protective grounding is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the starting device for the compressor drive (the box is it on the case), and according to the diagram we connect to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:

General view of the connection diagram. RDM-5 relay connection diagram. Please note - we use the L1 terminal to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, in no case do not connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.

From an ordinary plug (cable 2.5 mm2), through a switch, to a pressure switch (it says where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with earth, phase and zero if your house is new, or simply with phase and zero if the house is old. In principle, you can not take a steam bath, and bring the earth to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now, in order for the system to work, we will install a jumper. It is installed directly on the starter terminal block. soldering is best, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:

Jumper wiring diagram in the starting device.
This jumper is very important, as it provides the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, carefully lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully for potential short circuits - each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.

Now - we check everything, run it, and start painting the models! =)

In contact with

A simple air compressor, with which you can perform paint work or pump up car tires, can be made with your own hands from improvised materials. A homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory counterparts, and the cost of its manufacture will be minimal.

You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or an airbrush from a car pump, having improved it a little. Modernization of the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist in adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.

Adaptation of the device for voltage 220 V

To connect the autopump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.

Advice! For this purpose, a power supply from a computer is well suited.

You can find out the value of the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. In this case, the power supply from the PC (see the figure above) will be quite enough in terms of current and voltage.

So, if you insert the plug of the electrical cord into the PC power supply and turn it on, then nothing will happen. This is because the PSU will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the PSU, you need insert a jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one green wire, and the second black, as shown in the following photo.

These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.

Because the pump has car cigarette lighter plug, then it can be cut off, and the device can be connected to the corresponding color with wires from the PSU.

But it would be better if you buy a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.

There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red - “+”, black - “-” and yellow - “+”, designed to connect the LED. Connect the wires to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).

If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor that can not only inflate tires, but also work with an airbrush.

Connecting additional elements

To connect the device to the receiver, it is necessary to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.

This binding includes the following elements.

1. cross, which has all outputs with VR1/2. Marking means: "BP" - internal thread, "1/2" - thread diameter in inches.
2. Tee, has all outputs with HP1/2 (“HP” – external thread).
3. valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (VR1/2 - VR1/2). Designed to block the movement of air in both directions. The double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
4. . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 - BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then you need to select a check valve that does not have plastic parts.
   
   
5. straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1/2).
6. adapter nipple HP1/2 - HP1/4. Allows you to change from one external thread diameter to another.
7. Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 - HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
8. Reducing coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to an internal thread with another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
9. Tee, which has all outputs already with a HP1 / 8 thread.
10. Coupling straight BP1/8 - BP1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
11. Hose adapter HP1/8.
12. Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver is not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum allowable level. The water separator can be omitted if the unit is to be used as a tire inflation pump. When using a painting unit, the installation of an oil-moisture separator is a prerequisite.
    
    

    

    The above piping scheme assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for air outlet to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for tire inflation.

13. adapter nipple HP1/4 - HP1/8.
14. Futorka(HP1/4 - BP1/8), is an adapter from a larger diameter of the external thread to a smaller diameter of the internal thread.
15. Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually control the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the line.

When assembling all elements, it is necessary use thread sealant, for example, fum-tape. Pressure gauges can be connected through high pressure hose cuts. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and fixed with clamps.

Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without the use of hoses, if it is not necessary to bring them to the front panel of the unit.

How the compressor piping assembled according to the diagram looks like is shown in the following photo.

The receiver for an autocompressor can be made from a large-diameter metal pipe welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then an ordinary tubeless wheel from a car can serve as a receiver.

Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, one should take into account the fact that the autopump can work no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should also be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.

A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher / gas cylinder

Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you want to make a powerful unit, you can take from Zilovsky compressor. But first it needs to be tweaked a bit.

Drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, including liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.

During the operation of the unit, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.

If you take receiver fire extinguisher, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.

The cast iron cap should be threaded ¼ inch. Also, under the cast-iron cover, it is necessary to lay a rubber gasket, if it was not there, and tighten the cover, using fum-tape to seal the thread.

The steps for connecting all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the previously considered one, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will relieve excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.

You can also do gas bottle compressor. But first you need to release gas from the cylinder, and then twist the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove residual gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually, a gas burner is installed under the cylinder and all moisture is evaporated from the container.

A futorka is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. A hole must be drilled in the lower part of the cylinder and a condensate drain fitting welded to it. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.

For fixing on the receiver of the engine and the compressor block, a metal corner frame. Mounting bolts are pre-welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).

Important! The engine for this unit must have a power of the order of 1.3 -2.2 kW.

You can also make a compressor for inflating tires yourself chainsaw which is beyond repair. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the outlet hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the exhaust gas hole is blocked. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.

An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the most silent. But you should know that such a device not high performance. With it, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For the normal operation of various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.), the performance of this unit is not enough, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.

So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has start relay with power cord. Also, 3 copper tubes come out of the apparatus. Two of them are designed for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for filling oil. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air, and from which it is blown out.

The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure consisting of the unit, receiver and pressure regulator with pressure gauge.

Advice! Instead of a filter at the outlet, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install an oil-moisture separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.

Installed on the inlet pipe air filter to prevent dust from entering the unit. To automate the process of pumping air, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.

DIY high pressure compressor

The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.

As a drive, you can take 380 V motor, 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the shaft of the piston group by means of an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for the plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf / cm 2.

Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with a pressure gauge installed into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. It also has a condensate drain valve. The balloon is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture separator.

Air exits from the top of the cylinder through the finger fitting. Compressor cooling is water. After 45 min. operation of the unit, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time it is possible to pump up 1 cylinder per 8 liters and 2 cylinders per 4 liters up to 260 atm.

The compressor can bring a lot of benefits in various areas of life. Perhaps you need a device for quickly inflating car tires, or you decide to do airbrushing, but you don’t have the right equipment, and you don’t want to buy it. You can solve this problem by making a compressor with your own hands. We will talk about how to do this and what is needed for this.

Make or buy

Before you learn how to make a compressor with your own hands, you need to figure out how and what tasks a home-made version can solve, and how a store-bought unit can handle them. In this regard, everything depends more and more on the direction for which you need a compressor. If you need it for a simple tire inflation, then you can use a home-made one.

Another thing is if you are drawn to creativity. It does not have to be airbrushing to trip over the disadvantages of the home option. The thing is that painting requires a uniform and uniform air flow. It should be free of debris and other small particles.

If these conditions are not met, it will be possible to get grainy paint or other types of defects as a result. This is what you should think about first of all when you see photos of homemade compressors.

To all of the above, you can add inhomogeneous spots and streaks, which will be a problem even when painting a bicycle frame, to say nothing about car details.

Despite this, both types of compressors are arranged in much the same way, as far as the basics are concerned. In any case, you need a tank in which the air is under high pressure. It can be generated by manual injection, or it can appear from mechanical impact.

If the first option is cheaper to implement, then it should be borne in mind that it will be much more difficult to work, because you will constantly need to monitor the pressure level inside the compressor.

In case the compressor is equipped with additional automation, all you need to do is add oil from time to time or change it. The result of the operation of such a device will be a constant and uniform supply of air, which can play a very important role for you.

Training

So we come to step-by-step instructions for assembling a compressor at home. If we talk about its advantages, then first of all it is worth remembering the volume of work, because such a unit will work much quieter than the factory version. To do this, it will be necessary to hermetically connect all the components, but this work is worth the effort.

What can you make a compressor with your own hands?

First you need something that can replace the receiver. A simple car camera works well for this. Next, you will need to find a simple pump on which a pressure gauge is installed. It is needed to increase the air pressure inside the chamber. To this we add a simple awl, a wheel repair kit and a simple camera nipple.

First of all, you need to make sure that the chamber is still tight and does not let air through. If it turns out that it does not cope with its tasks, under conditions of increased pressure, the consequences can be serious.

If during the check you find air leaks, then the chamber must be sealed, and this is best done using vulcanization.

Since our camera will act as a receiver, we will need to make another hole in it, for which we need a simple awl. It will need to paste the nipple, which I spoke about earlier. It will be used to bring air into the chamber.

For proper installation of the nipple, a repair kit, which is indicated in the list of necessary parts, is well suited. Then we unscrew the nipple and check how the air moves.

A do-it-yourself mini compressor is made according to the same principle, you just need to take a smaller chamber, for which you need a pump of less power. Such an installation will have lower productivity, but will have a certain compactness.

Peculiarities

After everything that has been done before, you need to install the bleed valve on the nipple that was originally on the camera. It is necessary to ease the pressure if it rises too high. In order to check the performance of the device not only by direct use, it will not be superfluous to install an additional pressure gauge.

Otherwise, if you are painting, you will need to first make a test run, then look at the uniformity of the enamel or plain paint, and only then start working. This is not very convenient, and can be quite expensive, depending on the price of materials.

It is important to know that when checking the pressure level with a pressure gauge, its arrow should not twitch. If this happens, the whole structure should be checked, as this is a signal that the air flow is not uniform.

In fact, the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhomemade compressors and the manufacture of one does not require any superpowers. Naturally, you will need direct hands, basic skills in working with different tools, and, most importantly, the desire to do all this. If you need a compressor for professional needs, then it is better to turn to ready-made solutions.

There are many reviews that homemade compressors work more reliably and at the same time are more durable. It is important to understand that it depends primarily on who made this unit, and no less important are the materials that were used to create it.

If you want to work in your garage or shed as a hobby, then you have enough free time to do it - why not.

DIY compressor photos

Many craftsmen know that you can make a compressor from the refrigerator with your own hands! Can . But, few people know exactly how to do it! In this article, we will try to provide an exhaustive answer on how to make a compressor with your own hands, so that everyone can create this equipment at home.

After all, if you figure it out, then, in essence, an air compressor is needed in every garage. With the help of a compressor, you can pump up the wheels without visiting a service station or tire shop, supply air to a working pneumatic tool, or simply blow dust off the surface to be treated. So, consider the installation option for painting.

Factory or homemade compressor

There is a list of specific requirements for a painting station. The main condition is the need for a uniform supply of air, without any impurities. Among the standard defects that occur due to the presence of foreign particles include graininess, shagreen or cavities on the enamel coating. In the case of uneven ink supply, streaks or a matte heel may form.

Of course, if you pay attention to branded air compressors, then such installations are equipped with all the necessary functions for the quality work of the airbrush. The only drawback of such units is their cost.

To save money and at the same time create a functional model that will not be inferior to professional equipment, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical information base or watch a video on the topic “compressor for painting a car with your own hands”.

The principle of operation of any model, regardless of whether it is homemade or factory, is the same. The reservoir is pressurized. The method of air injection is different (manual, mechanical). In the case of manual feeding, there is a significant savings in money, but a lot of energy is wasted. After all, the process requires constant monitoring.

Automatic inflation avoids these disadvantages, except that the air compressor oil requires periodic replacement. Thus, there is a uniform supply of air to the switchgear. In theory, this looks extremely simple, so it is possible to create a workable compressor station in a short time.

Do it yourself

So, we choose the manufacture of a painting installation from a conventional car chamber. List of required material:

1. Car camera that acts as a receiver;
2. A pump with a pressure gauge that acts as a supercharger;
3. chamber nipple;
4. repair kit;
5. Ordinary awl.

Now you can start manufacturing the compressor station. The chamber must be checked for tightness, for this it needs to be pumped up. If there are air leaks, it is necessary to solve this problem, either by gluing or by vulcanizing with raw rubber.

After that, in the manufactured receiver with an awl, you need to make a hole. A nipple will be placed here, through which a uniform jet of compressed air will exit.

An additional fitting is attached by gluing. A repair kit will help in solving this problem. Then the fitting is connected to the spray gun. To check how the air flow comes out, unscrew the nipple.

At the same time, the native nipple remains, it will serve as a valve and hold excessive pressure. In the end, you need to determine the level of pressure by spraying paint on a metal surface. If the enamel lays down evenly, then the installation works well.

In addition, the pressure value can be checked using a manometer. But, its level, even after pressing the aerator key, should not be spasmodic.

It is not difficult to design a compressor, but after its manufacture, anyone can make sure that repairing or painting a car will become much more effective than it was with a spray can.

Among the last parting words should be attributed to the fact that it is necessary in every possible way to avoid getting water or dust into the car chamber. So that these particles do not subsequently enter the spray gun, otherwise you will have to re-paint.

As a result of proper operation, the created installation will work for a long time, but it is better to automate air pumping.

Semi-professional blower

Experts have repeatedly made reviews that home-made compressor units have a longer service life. At what comparison was made with domestic and foreign models.

This, of course, because the installation is made by hand. Therefore, we will consider the option of how to make a compressor from a refrigerator, which will not be inferior even to products of famous companies. So, for its manufacture, the following list of materials is needed:

• Receiver for the compressor;
• pressure gauge;
• Relay for pressure control in the compressor;
• Thread adapters;
• Fuel filter (gasoline);
• Reducer with oil and moisture separating filter;
• ¾ inch threaded water cross;
• Motor for compressor unit;
• Clamps are automobile;
• Engine oil (10W40);
• Switch (220V);
• Oil resistant hose;
• brass tubes;
• Regular syringe;
• Thick board;
• Compressor rust converter;
• Power system filter (diesel);
• Metal paint;
• Nuts, washers, studs;
• Wheels for furniture;
• Sealant, fum tape;
• Needle file.

working mechanism

To simplify the procedure, a compressor from an old Soviet-style refrigeration unit can serve as an engine. There is one positive point here, namely the presence of a compressor start relay.

Soviet models outperform their foreign competitors by generating higher pressure. After removing the executive unit, it is necessary to put it in order, freeing it from accumulated rust.

A rust converter will help treat the compressor to avoid further oxidation. Thus, the body of the working motor will be prepared for subsequent painting.

Installation scheme

After completing the introductory part, you can begin to change the oil. After all, if you do not prevaricate, then it is not enough which refrigerator managed to undergo regular maintenance or oil changes. However, such a course of events is also quite justified, because in this case the system is completely isolated from atmospheric influence.

So, semi-synthetic oil is quite suitable for this procedure. Moreover, it is no worse than compressor oil, and has a sufficient amount of useful additives.

We go further and finds 3 tubes on the compressor, 2 of which are open, one is sealed. In our case, open tubes will be used for air circulation (inlet and outlet). To understand how the air moves, you need to apply power to the compressor for a short time. Then remember or write down which air duct draws in air, and which, on the contrary, releases it.

The purpose of the sealed tube is a routine oil change. Therefore, the closed end should be removed. A needle file will help us with this, which needs to be filed in a circle around the tube. When doing this, make sure that the chips do not get inside the compressor.

After that, it is necessary to break off the end of the tube and drain the oil into any container in order to determine its volume for subsequent replacement. Then we take a syringe and fill it with semi-synthetics, but in a larger volume than was drained.

When the oil is filled, you need to turn off the engine lubrication system. This can be done by selecting the screw you need, after which this screw is wrapped with fum tape and twisted into a tube. It's time to remind you that oil drops will sometimes seep out of the outlet air pipe of the supercharger.

Therefore, an oil-moisture separator for the compressor will come to the rescue here.

When the indicated work is completed, it's time to start assembling the installation. You need to start by strengthening the engine with a starting relay on a wooden base, so that it is in the same position as it was on the frame.

This is necessary because the compressor relay is sensitive to attitude. To be more precise, an arrow should be drawn on the top cover. It is important to be accurate here, because the correct switching of modes will depend on the installation of the compressor.

Air tank

An excellent solution to the problem would be cylinders from fire extinguishers. It depends on their ability to withstand high pressure, in addition, the cylinders have a significant margin of safety, they are great as attachments.

So, let's take the OU-10 fire extinguisher as a basis. Its working volume is 10 liters. According to the technical specifications, the cylinder can withstand pressure - 15 MPa. Now you need to unscrew the locking and starting device from our workpiece, and then screw in the adapter.

In this case, if traces of corrosion are detected, it is necessary to remove them with a rust converter. Of course, external removal is not difficult, but internally it will require patience. Therefore, we fill the converter inside the cylinder, and shake the contents.

After cleaning, you can screw in the water cross. Thus, two working parts of our compressor unit were prepared.

Mounting parts

To make it easier to store and move work parts, it is best to place them on the same base. As mentioned earlier, you need a wooden board, which will serve as the basis for securely fastening the engine, as well as the fire extinguisher body.

Therefore, as an engine mount, we will use threaded studs that need to be threaded into pre-drilled holes. Of course, plus everything you will need nuts (washers).

Then you need to place the receiver in a vertical position, 3 sheets of plywood will come in handy here. In this case, in one sheet you need to make a hole for the balloon. The remaining sheets are fastened with screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver.

But, on the eve, you still need to hollow out a recess in the wooden base under the bottom of the receiver. And finally, in order for the design to be maneuverable, you need to fasten the furniture wheels to its base.

After all that has been done, you need to ensure that the system is protected from possible dust ingress. A gasoline coarse fuel filter will come to the rescue. It will act as an air intake.

A rubber hose and an inlet tube of the supercharger will be involved here. It should be noted that there is low pressure at the inlet of the compressor station, which means that it is not necessary to strengthen the contact with the help of automobile clamps.

Thus, we have created an inlet filter for the compressor unit. An oil and moisture separator should be installed at the outlet of the station, which will block the ingress of water particles. Here the power supply filter will be used. Due to the fact that the pressure at the outlet of the compressor station is increased, automobile clamps will be used from this place.

So, the turn came to the oil and moisture separator filter. In this case, it must be connected to the input of the reducer, which is needed to decouple the tank and the pressure output of the supercharger. This means that we screw the outlet into the previously prepared crosspiece on the left side, and screw the pressure gauge on the right, thanks to which we can control the balloon pressure. On top of the cross you need to screw the adjusting relay.

The presence of a control relay will make it possible to set the range of the height of the receiver pressure, as well as to interrupt the power supply circuit in the supercharger in time. When it comes to the actuator it is recommended to use PM5 (RDM5).

With the help of these devices, the compressor will turn on if the air pressure in the tank drops below the set mark and turn off if the set parameters are exceeded.

The required pressure is set on the relay using two springs. The function of the large spring is to create a minimum pressure, while the small spring is responsible for regulating the upper limit, in fact, setting the shutdown limit of the compressor unit.

RM5 (RDM5) were originally produced for use in the water supply network, in fact, these are ordinary two-contact switches. In our case, one contact is used to connect the zero of the 220 V network, while the second contact goes to connect to the supercharger.

We conduct the network phase through a toggle switch to connect to the second input of the compressor station. If there is a toggle switch in the electrical circuit, we will be able to quickly disconnect the system from the network, which will save you from running towards the outlet.

Naturally, all connections must be soldered and carefully insulated. After that, you can paint the finished installation and carry out test tests.

Adjusting the pressure

So, after assembling the structure, it is quite natural to check it. To do this, you need to connect an airbrush, or alternatively an air gun. Then, without including the toggle switch, we connect the plug to the network.

We set the control relay at the minimum pressure, and we supply power to the supercharger. Do not forget the pressure gauge, which allows you to control the pressure in the tank. After we managed to make sure that the relay turns off the engine, we need to check the tightness of the connections.

A classic soap solution can help here. If the system has passed the leak test, the remaining air can be bled from the tank chamber. It should be noted that in the event of a pressure drop below the set limits, the relay should start the compressor. In case of serviceability of all systems, it is possible to start painting any part.

In this case, you should not load yourself with pre-treatment of the metal. It is important for us to set the pressure necessary for painting the product.

Such experimentation will give us the opportunity to determine the atmospheric value so that the coloring of any product occurs in a uniform layer. In addition, it is very important that this entire process occurs with a minimum amount of blower operation.

Thus, the results can be summed up. Making a car compressor, a lifting activity for every car enthusiast.

Of course, it's hard to argue that the second version is more complicated and takes more time to manufacture, but thanks to the automatic pressure control system, as well as the presence of a supercharger start, working with such equipment will be one sheer pleasure.

In addition, you will no longer need to control the receiver's camera. Such a station will allow you to paint a car, a fence in a village or a garage door.

For continuous operation of the created compressor, it will be necessary to carry out periodic routine maintenance . To drain the oil, you can use a syringe. In this case, we unscrew the filler hole, put a hose on the tube and pump out the waste. Fresh oil can also be pumped in with a syringe. Filters are changed as needed, including in the event of a decrease in the rate of filling the tank chamber.

Make or buy

Today the market is filled with a variety of compressor equipment. There are piston units, vibration units, screw stations and other devices that are produced for different purposes. Ready-made installations can be purchased at auto parts stores or on specialized sites.

A large assortment can make it difficult to choose the right product. But be that as it may, if you decide to buy a ready-made station, focus on studying the technical parameters, cost and reviews.

To obtain a quality guarantee, it is better to purchase equipment of well-known brands, however, an expensive product will justify itself in the case of professional car repair. Little-known products can let you down, so it's best not to risk it.

Often low-quality materials are installed in budget options. It is not uncommon for installations to fail due to instant breakdowns of individual parts, while warranty repairs will take a long time.

As already mentioned, a hand-made assembly is often more reliable than a factory one. Technical parameters are a separate plus. For example, according to statistics, refrigerator compressors last for decades. Regarding the fire extinguisher, we can say that this product has a tenfold margin of safety.

Therefore, it is better not to buy something that you are not sure about. In addition, having studied the current material, you know that you can make a compressor with your own hands, even at home. A well-made device will be the envy of your garage neighbors.

Another story

Let's start with the design of the technical requirements for the fruit of our own engineering. Let's say that it all started with the purchase of a new double action airbrush. Therefore, the issue of manufacturing a compressor unit with a receiver became extremely necessary.

The dual action airbrush has the ability to control the flow of air, as well as lock it and open the duct. In Europe, such a device is used with a separate compressed air cylinder. So, a compressor with a reservoir serves as a container for collecting air, and an airbrush uses this air.

Of course, the main component is the compressor. Here an old refrigerator will come to the rescue, from which you can remove an excellent compressor. To do this, you can go to sites that sell refrigeration equipment.

We determine the price and order delivery, but before that you also need to write out the name of the manufacturer's company and visit the site. So, in our case, the manufacturer is Danfoss. On the company's website, we download the technical description of the compressor.

Next, consider such an option as a do-it-yourself receiver for a compressor. Here, of course, you need a tank that was made to contain gases or can withstand high pressure. It is optimal if such a container meets the requirements of GOST. Therefore, we immediately exclude containers, like a plastic canister or bottle. Consider tank options:

1. Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Withstands pressure - 10 atmospheres. Capacity - 3 l / 5 l / 10 l. Cons - metric thread at the entrance.
2. Hydraulic accumulator. Good volume capacity, with low working pressure. There is a convenient thread at the entrance. Cons - needs to be fine-tuned, since, from the inside, it is divided into a membrane that contains carbon dioxide. The membrane must be removed.
3. Oxygen balloon. Withstands high pressure. Cons - only extremely heavy models are available.
4. propane tank. In general, it is similar to a fire extinguisher, but the manufacturer does not recommend their use for compressed air.

Links

After we have decided on the compressor, and selected the right product for the receiver, the next step is to combine them. In addition, you need to solve the problem of air flow to the airbrush.

You can start with a node that is attached directly to the receiver, and will provide air distribution. It must be recalled that the key factor is its compatibility with the receiver's connector. Next, pay attention to the pressure switch, which will ensure that the compressor is turned off and on.

The best option for the relay would be RDM-5, which is used for plumbing systems. This model is widely available for sale, and the good thing is that its connecting element is designed for external inch threads.

Then we determine the indication of pressure in the receiver. To do this, we need a pressure gauge for 10 atmospheres, it also has a suitable connecting size. And we will also need a static device.

Next, we deal with the air preparation unit. The hose that leads to the airbrush needs to be pressurized. Accordingly, there is a need for a gearbox with a pressure regulation limit of up to 10 atmospheres, and it is desirable that a pressure gauge and an oil separator filter be attached to it.

With the help of a pressure gauge, we will control the pressure, and the filter will ensure that particles of compressor oil do not get out of the receiver. But, do not confuse it with a lubricator filter, which performs a diametrically opposite function.

Let's continue collecting materials, and it's time to prepare fittings, turns, tees. We take an inch as the base size. To determine the quantity, you need a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit.

We will also need external and internal adapters. If desired, you can make a plan diagram of how to make a compressor. The next stage is the placement of the finished structure. Chipboard boards may be an option.

Of course, in order not to swear while moving the station around the workshop, it is advisable to immediately resolve the issue with roller legs. Any furniture store will gladly sell them to you. To save space, you can make a two-story structure. True, long bolts may be needed. So, we summarize the planning stage with a list of components:

• Compressor;
• Receiver;
• Pressure switch;
• pressure gauge;
• Filter reducer;
• Emergency valve;
• Fittings, adapters;
• Plumbing gaskets, fum-tape, sealant;
• Cables, switch, plug;
• Flexible oil resistant hose;
• Chipboard sheet
• Roller feet, bolts, nuts, washers and tools.

Starting assembly

It is ideal to remove the fire extinguisher assembly and weld on the adapter fitting. An alternative way is to unscrew part of the valve, leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element, then screw an adapter with an internal inch thread to one outlet, and an adapter from 1 to 38 to the other.

Using an adjustable wrench, twist the adapters according to the diagram. Next, we mount the gearbox, pressure gauge, pressure switch and adapter for a flexible hose.

The next step is to screw the wheels to the chipboard sheet. Since the design will be two-level, you need to drill holes for the studs. After that, put the fire extinguisher in its place.

In the case of using a hydraulic accumulator, the assembly scheme is even simpler, since it has brackets at the top and bottom. Therefore, the lower mounts are screwed to the base, and the upper mounts are used to install the compressor.

In our case, the second floor needs to be built. To do this, markings are made, holes are drilled, and the upper and lower floors are bolted together. Then the compressor is mounted on the second floor. Silicone gaskets are suitable to reduce vibration.

When installing the compressor, we put washers. We fasten the air distribution module to the tank. Using a hose and clamps, we tightly connect the compressor outlet and the inlet of the air preparation unit.

Now it's time to work with the wiring diagram. A jumper would be appropriate. Also protective elements do not interfere. The connection line must pass through the relay and switch. The connection itself will take place as follows.

From the plug, the phase wire goes to the switch. Then it is connected to the desired relay terminal. In the absence of a ground wire, we start a neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay.

Already from the relay, the phase wire and the neutral wire go to the starting device of the compressor station drive and are connected according to the diagram to the required terminals. Next, on the terminal block of the starting device, we install a jumper by soldering.

It will ensure the connection of the windings to the phase. Cables can be laid in plastic ties. Check and run the installation. Then we paint it.

Do you want to know everything about car painting? Read more helpful articles:

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Hi friends! Are you happy car owners whose fire extinguisher is not used for its intended purpose and thrown away after the expiration date? I congratulate you, and wish everyone such happiness.) In general, if you have an old fire extinguisher lying around, do not rush to throw it away, because it can make an excellent compressor that is in no way inferior in power and quality to a purchased one.

To begin with, we need to release air and powder or foam from the fire extinguisher, in short, empty it. Then we screw the head and wash the fire extinguisher, let it dry.

Now we need an adapter, a half-inch tee, a six-millimeter herringbone fitting for air supply, for air outlet we take an adapter from half an inch to a quarter inch and from it to a quick-detachable adapter for pneumatic tools.

We will collect all this on an anaerobic sealant, it hardens very quickly and is designed for pressure up to 50 atmospheres, just what we need.

To supply air, we need an electric pump, you can use a car compressor, we connect it to the herringbone fitting.

Well, that's all, it remains to attach the air outlet hose and the compressor is ready.

You already have a working compressor on your hands, but in order to bring it closer to the ideal, and make it look like a purchased one, you can ennoble it with a pressure gauge and make a case, this is up to you. I did and this is what happened.