Prose of life: do-it-yourself wooden fence. Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal poles: design features How to install a wooden fence with your own hands

Features of installing a wooden fence for a summer residence with your own hands

A strong fence around the house is an important necessity. A high fence not only protects property, but creates a sense of psychological comfort.

Wooden fences have always been considered the ideal fencing option. They are made of pure ecological materials and are quite simple in self-construction. Properly built and well maintained wooden fences can last up to four decades.

What are wooden fences

All products of this type can be divided into two large groups:

Considering wooden fences by design, the following options are available:

What kind of wood to make a fence

Experts advise using coniferous trees. It may larch or spruce, cedar, pine. It should be borne in mind that pine is not very durable. In principle, any type of wood is suitable for a wooden fence, the main thing is that it be of high quality. If you want to save money, then you can safely take spruce or pine. Before use, the wood must be well treated with an antiseptic with olive.

Preparing tools for mounting

We will need:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a wooden fence

Stage #1

Wooden pegs are taken about 60 cm in length. Everyone needs to be sharpened. Then the site plan is taken, and the pegs are hammered around the entire perimeter of the territory.

The distance between them should be in the region of two meters from each other.

Then the pegs must be looped with lacing. It needs to be well stretched.

Stage #2

It is necessary to determine the required height of the fence. It is important that it is not too high (because it can obscure the planting) or too low (so as not to put the site on display). Optimal the average height is considered to be 1.5-2.5 meters.

The boards are cut to the designated length. They will need to be processed on a grinding machine and made into a semicircular or triangular profile. If you need to save time, you can buy ready-made boards.

Stage 3

There comes a moment when the pegs are removed one at a time, and in their place a well is drilled with a depth of about 50-80 cm under the supports for the future fence. To make the work go faster, it is better to do it using a drill. If there is no access to the drill, then the holes can be made with an ordinary shovel.

Stage 4

Pre-prepared supports can now be dug into the ground. Bars can be with a section of 50 * 50 mm or 75 * 75 mm. It is necessary to install the bars strictly vertically, for great accuracy it is recommended to use a plumb line. The wells are covered with earth and compacted tightly. To consolidate the results of the work and make the fence durable, supports must be cemented.

Stage number 5

On top of each beam, a nail is hammered, and they are pulled together along the perimeter with a tightly stretched lacing. This must be done in order to level the fence.

Stage #6

The veins (section 10 * 2.5 cm) are attached to the beams with nails. They must be placed at the same distance from each other. This is done at a height of about 20-30 cm above the soil level. The nails must be of the right size to penetrate the veins and protrude a few centimeters from the back. The protruding parts of the nails must be carefully bent.

Stage number 7

Boards prepared for the fence are nailed to the nails. If you want to make a deaf fence, then the boards are nailed end-to-end. You can also leave a small distance between them from one to five centimeters.

Wood fence painting and finishing

The stages of installation of a wooden fence are completed, but there is still a lot of work ahead. It is necessary to protect the wooden fence from bad weather and insects. For this, special measures are taken, in particular - processing and painting.

As a protective material, experts recommend using ordinary drying oil. This tool is common and available at its cost. If finances allow, then the hardware stores offer many options for stronger and more expensive tree protection.

After the applied protective layer dries, you can start painting.

For this, special paints for wood are selected, which are presented in a wide range on modern construction markets. This combination: drying oil and special paint will protect the fence from the sun and moisture.

It is important! Painting a wooden fence should be repeated once every two, maximum three years.

Wooden fences have many advantages - environmental friendliness of the material and beautiful appearance, reliable protection and long service life. In order for a tree to fully reveal these qualities, it is necessary to properly mount the fence and, without fail, protect the wood with drying oil and paint.

How to extend the life of a wooden fence

For additional protection from rain and snow, many professionals recommend installing a special visor on the top of the fence. To do this, you will need to install special additional strips on which the visor can be attached.

Installing such a visor is a painstaking and time-consuming task, but the product can protect the tree from moisture as much as possible, and the appearance of the fence will become more original and individual.

To protect the bottom of the fence, you must constantly:

• Remove excess grass. A lot of vegetation near the fence leads to increased humidity. This can cause early rotting of the tree.
• After removing excess grass, a thin layer of gravel is poured along the fence. This will allow excess moisture not to accumulate in this place.

how Extend the life of your wood fence still under construction:

• Make sure that there are no anthills and large thickets in the installation site.
• Impregnate the wood with special antiseptics even before the start of construction.
• Upon completion of installation, coat the entire structure with a primer. This will strengthen the fence and provide excellent protection from adverse weather conditions. You can make a primer only in warm weather, when the tree is completely dry.
• An additional primer is done using paint, which includes natural oils. This doubles the strength of the material. A layer of oil paint should dry for about 24 hours before applying a second one. Then the material will be well impregnated.

When the materials are prepared, there are tools, as well as free time, building a wooden fence with your own hands is a task that even a beginner in construction can do. But it is important not only to install the fence correctly, but also to provide it with constant care and protection. Then the wooden fence will last up to forty-five years.

Step-by-step video instructions for building a wooden fence

On the video - self-construction of a wooden fence:

Photo gallery of various wooden fences

The photo shows examples of the implementation of various decorative and unusual wooden fences installed in a summer cottage. Some of the ideas can help you choose your own solutions.

The fence refers to the elements of the garden landscape. In addition to their direct "duties" - protecting the site from unauthorized access and indicating the boundaries of private households, fences play an important role in the aesthetic arrangement of the territory. The fence can be of different types, configurations and textures, but the most popular in the decorative sense was and remains the wooden version. In addition, such a fence can be made independently, showing all your imagination of the master.

Making a wooden fence is quite simple compared to a metal counterpart. This option has many advantages with a minimum indicator of disadvantages. For the construction of a wooden fence, you can use different materials - boards from different types of trees: beech, pine, larch or oak. Coniferous trees are especially valued. Each master chooses the material at his discretion, because the main thing is that the wooden fence is solid and stands for a long time.

How to make a fence

Wood fences can be divided into 2 groups: a fence and a palisade. Also, such fences differ in design (picket fence, wattle fence, bamboo fence, ranch, lattice fabric and other options for fence design).

The most popular and simple are picket fences, as well as those made by a continuous row of boards. Regardless of what kind of fence you plan to build, it is imperative to carry out preparatory work on its device:

• clear the area for a wooden fence (remove debris, pull out grass or weeds, uproot stumps and roots of old trees, if any);
• dismantle the old fence;
• draw up a draft diagram of the future picket fence, where to mark the place of the gate, gate, taking into account the boundary lines and signs;
• choose and buy all the necessary materials for building a fence (wood, nails or construction screws treated with an anti-corrosion agent, cement to stabilize the fence support, beams and logs, paint);
• prepare tools (hammer, hacksaw, shovel, crowbar, hole drill, rammer, cord and pegs for marking the site, wheelbarrow, container for mixing cement mortar or concrete mixer).

Service life of a wooden fence

A wooden fence has a service life of about 8 years. However, if it is properly looked after and repaired in time, then this period increases by 3 times. A solid wooden fence can stand for more than 30 years, although fences from historical wooden architecture are known that are more than 50 years old.

The main factors for the durability of wooden fences are:

• quality of building material-wood (soft or hard wood, manufacturer);
• good quality and correct installation;
• operating conditions.

Manufacturers determine the quality of a material by its likely wear resistance. Also, the life of the fence depends on the accuracy of handling it.

The advantages of wooden fences are:

• environmental friendliness - absolutely pure natural material that does not harm the environment, the sanded fence is pleasant to the touch, it does not take sunlight, which is important for closely growing plants;
• variability - compared to the factory version of the metal profile, which is usually installed in a vertical position, with wood, you can work out various options - horizontally, vertically, diagonally, interlacing, and also use boards of various lengths, widths and thicknesses;
• ease of installation - the installation of a wooden fence does not require special skills, solid concreting and a large number of people, since a wooden fence is not heavy, it is easy to handle with one person;
• aesthetics - the natural beauty of wood leads in the selection of materials for the future fence, it looks great in any landscape design solution.

It should be borne in mind that wood is “afraid” of exposure to moisture, as over time it begins to rot, blacken, and become covered with mold spots. To delay these unpleasant moments, it is necessary to carefully look after a wooden fence and carry out antiseptic prophylaxis for it in time. You should also pay attention to the combustibility of this building material and use special means for its impregnation-protection in order to avoid fire.

wooden fence design

Modern wood-built fences come in a variety of designs in any format to provide a visual impact. Such a fence is a traditional option for Russian villages, holiday villages or country cottages.

The tree is beautifully decorated, covered with various paints or varnishes, it harmoniously fits into any landscape composition. The design of a wooden fence depends on the preferences, imagination of the owner, as well as the general compositional background. The most original fences are obtained using the following types of fences:

• solid - made in the form of a palisade of stakes or round logs, slabs, edged boards;
• option of staggered laying or overlapping - the boards are laid in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal position;
• "wickerwork" - the boards are fixed between the supporting pillars, either from the inside or from the outside, by braiding them;
• - a combination of boards with round logs as a support, a classic version;
• wicker fence - a vine, tree branches, twigs are used;
• fence-lattice - bars-slats are used;
• a fence in the style of a cowboy ranch - the exoticism of horizontally arranged bars attracts with brutality, it is recommended to combine it with a massive concrete or stone base.

Whatever fence design you choose, you should consider its role in the overall compositional picture and functionality.

Making and installing a wooden fence with your own hands allows you not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the site design ensemble. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and durable fence, an atmosphere of genuine home peace, warmth and comfort will immediately settle in. But building a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it is best to start it with a fascinating acquaintance with a variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, after making a choice it will not be difficult at all.

Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is an inexpensive and convenient material for technical processing and decoration, which is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private areas.

Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - euro fence, metal, corrugated board, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fences will always be high.

The reason for this is the tree's list of virtues, which includes:

• environmental friendliness;
• unique decorative qualities;
• a wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
• ease of processing;
• ease of installation;
• simple replacement of structural elements of the fence during operation;
• low cost.

Wood is an environmentally friendly natural material that is perfectly combined with other building materials and is able to harmoniously fit into any decision on the design of the fenced area. For the construction of a wooden fence, one, maximum two pairs of working hands is enough and no special knowledge, skills and tools are required. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less effort and time. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as design and decoration methods, open up the widest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.

Along with the advantages, the tree has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.

The disadvantages of wooden fences include:

1. Fire hazard.
2. Low resistance to climatic factors.
3. Attractiveness to pests.
4. susceptibility to decay.
5. Short service life (about 10 years).

To partially compensate for these shortcomings, the wood used in construction must be treated with flame retardant, antiseptic and pest repellents. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden changes in temperature. All this entails additional costs of money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.

Good to know: In practice, various methods are used to increase the service life of wooden fences. So, in order to prevent soaking and rotting of the support poles (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence, their upper ends are closed with plastic plugs or other suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence canvas is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is necessary to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the condition of the transverse logs and their attachment points to the supports.

Variety, types

So, the construction of the fence can be performed in order to:

• designation of the boundaries of the territory;
• ensuring privacy (protection of what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
• protection against unauthorized entry;
• reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
• fencing of potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes, etc.);
• decorative design of the site.

In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:

1. Deaf.
2. Trellised (with gaps).
3. Combined.

When choosing the type of fence construction, one should not forget about its design. The fence should fit into the existing landscape and be in harmony with the design of the objects located in the fenced area.

The most widely used are the following options for the design of wooden fences:

• "classic";

It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports installed in bottles or on concrete, wooden beam crossbeams and sheathing from standard edged boards.

• fence (vertical or horizontal);

As a sheathing for such a fence, a picket fence is used - a thin plank with a straight or beveled upper end. Sheathing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without clearance.

• lattice;

The sheathing of the lattice fence is equal-wide strips (slats) installed crosswise vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 °. Laths are mounted with a clearance or close at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create a decorative pattern of the fence canvas.

• "chess" (deaf or with clearance);

A complicated version of the picket fence with a deaf or blown staggered arrangement of the skin on both sides of the fence. The elements of the staggered cladding are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal position or diagonally across the canvas.

• ladder (herringbone);

The cladding elements of such a fence are mounted with clearance or overlapped at a certain angle along the longitudinal axis (vertically or horizontally). The rotation of the fence boards is provided with the help of calibrated gaskets.

• network;

The canvas of a wicker fence is thin strips or branches of a vine, braiding the vertical or horizontal edges of the supporting frame. The braid is quite difficult to manufacture, but it provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.

• palisade;

The palisade fence is a solid canvas made of logs with pointed ends. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break, besides, they provide complete privacy of the territory inside the perimeter of the fence, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.

• log paving;

The log fence is mounted from tightly fitting horizontally located logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving is a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the perimeter of the fence from prying eyes and ears.

• "ranch";

An open-type fencing, the canvas of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with lags located diagonally. Ranch fences serve to mark the boundaries of a private area or protect against the entry of large animals, although they can also serve as decorative functions.

• "cross".

The supports of such a fence, which are installed in most cases on a separate or strip concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal sheathing elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the cross-style fence has a horizontal sheathing, which is mounted on vertical crossbars, based on support pillars and a concrete foundation.

This is not the whole classification. So, fences of the “vertical picket fence” group are found in such varieties as:

• solid palisade;
• palisade with gaps;
• cat or dog ears;
• private;
• peak;
• concave or convex, etc.

Good to know: In practice, combinations of different types of structures are often used, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases additional resistance to force.

Original designs in the photo: decorating a summer house or a private house

Wooden fence along the road Deaf wooden fence with the functions of protection and ensuring the privacy of the territory Wooden fence with combined cladding Decorative vertical picket fence Concave vertical fence A solid canvas of a fence from a horizontal picket fence Combined style horizontal log fence Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex canvas of a wooden fence Fence in the style of "cross" with brick pillars Fence in the style of "ranch" for the protection of the suburban area Wooden fence with a horizontal log crate Wooden fence in the style of "solid palisade" Wooden fence with woven fabric construction

Preparation for construction

The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with the design. To solve this problem, you will need a cadastral plan of the fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If there is no plan at hand, the measurements will have to be performed independently.

The perimeter value is the basis for further design, so it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The data obtained should be transferred to a pre-drawn diagram of the site on a scale. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of sections of the fence, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.

Territory marking

To mark the site for the future fence, you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. First of all, by driving a peg into the ground, you need to set the corner marks.

The next step is to determine the location of the gate and the entrance gate. As a rule, they are placed together. The standard width of the gate is 1–1.5 m, and the size of the gate is taken in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the site owner.

Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on the foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the supporting posts or foundation.

At the end of the design survey, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the big picture and quickly eliminate errors made during planning.

What materials to choose?

The next step after the development of the main plan is the selection and calculation of materials for the construction of the fence. For this you need:

• decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
• accept the method of mounting supports;
• calculate the main parameters of the fence (number of supports, section sizes and the number of transverse logs);
• determine the material from which the skin will be made;
• calculate the volume of sheathing (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
• determine the method of installing transverse logs and cladding, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.

The choice of material for the support pillars is simple: the most preferred option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm (for corner supports) and 50 * 50 (for intermediate columns). Proper preparation for operation and competent installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.

If the soil in the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and groundwater occurs at great depths (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.

Finally, as a transverse log for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a web height of 1.8 m, it is advisable to use wooden bars with a cross section of at least 40 * 40 mm.

Calculation

When designing, a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences should be taken into account. Strict observance of these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.

Basic design requirements:

1. The size of the section should not exceed 2.5 m in order to avoid sagging of the transverse logs under the weight of the skin.
2. Support posts are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for mounting supports, it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, as well as the soil composition that affects the behavior of the soil during the change of seasons.
3. To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of the gates and gates, must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
4. The bottom line of the fence canvas should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
5. Support posts should be at least 10 cm higher than the fence canvas.

Good to know: If there are irregularities or a slight slope on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.

The calculation of the fence parameters is carried out in several stages:

• Let's assume that the plot has the shape of a trapezoid with bases 29 and 40 m long and sides measuring 25 and 20 m. The perimeter value is calculated by summing all sides of the figure:

P \u003d 29 + 40 + 20 + 25 \u003d 114 m;

• If the gate and the gate are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the gate and the entrance:

l 1 \u003d 29 - (1.5 + 2.5) \u003d 25 m;

• In this case, the total length of the fence will be:

L \u003d 25 + 40 + 20 + 25 \u003d 110 m;

• Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:

n sections \u003d L / l sections \u003d 110 / 2.5 \u003d 44;

• Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of supporting pillars using the formula:

N supports = n + 1 = 44+ 1 = 45;

Please note: Corner supports and posts on the sides of the gate and wicket must be thicker than the intermediate ones. Their number is 6 pieces - 4 at the corners of the site and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number of intermediate supports will be equal to: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.

• Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence canvas height of 1.8 m, and also taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:

L supports \u003d 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 \u003d 2.85 m;

• The last step in the preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse lags of the fence. If we take the height of the latter equal to 1.8 m, 2 crossbars will be needed for each of the sections. Thus, the total number of lags will be:

n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;

As a result of the calculations, we get the exact number of structural elements of the fence:

• 39 intermediate supports;
• 6 corner supports;
• 88 transverse logs.

On this, the main calculations within the framework of the fencing project can be considered completed. To start the practical implementation of the project, it remains to choose the skin material and calculate its volume.

What boards to choose for sheathing?

The choice of fence sheathing depends on the style of the latter, as well as on the method of protecting the wood. As a rule, conifers are chosen for outdoor fences with a predominantly protective function - pine, spruce or cedar.

If the priority in designing the appearance of the fence was given to its decorative qualities, hardwoods - oak, beech, ash and birch are much better suited for sheathing. The strength indicators of such a fence will be low, but with proper processing it will look very expressive.

Cedar belongs to expensive and rare conifers. It is distinguished by the presence of a bright and beautiful texture, as well as high wear resistance.

As for oak fences, they are not common - their construction is too expensive.

Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees, although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, are poorly resistant to moisture, so they are practically not used in the construction of fences.

The most affordable and cheapest wood is pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is an excellent protection against dampness, mold and decay, and has an optimal humidity for outdoor use (15-20% when dried properly). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotty material, spruce species are certainly in the lead: in pine, knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce - almost immediately from the ground.

Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species show an increased tendency to crack. This spruce and pine wood is due to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material must be bought with some margin, since part of it will inevitably go to waste.

Fence sheathing calculation

The last step before going to the building materials store is to calculate the number of fence boards needed to create the canvas of the fence under construction. This value is calculated as follows:

1. First you need to take the amount of clearance between the fences. Suppose it will be equal to 4 cm.
2. We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be equal to 15 cm.
3. The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed closely, 16 units could go to the section. But with a 4 cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
4. We check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13 * 15 = 195 cm. Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account that there will be 1 more gaps than the picket) will be: (13 + 1) * 4 = 52 cm. Together it will come out: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which differs by only 1 cm from the value of the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated by increasing the size of the extreme gaps by 0.5 cm.
5. We calculate the number of boards required for sheathing the entire fence (without the gate leaf and wicket): 13 * 44 \u003d 572 pcs.

Good to know: A standard wooden fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for fence sheathing. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the sheathing volume will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 \u003d 3,088,800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.

construction tool

Preparation for the construction of a wooden fence includes the collection of tools that will greatly simplify and greatly speed up the work. This list should include:

• jigsaw;
• circular saw with discs for metal;
• welding machine;
• wood saw;
• electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
• shovel and crowbar;
• garden earth drill;
• hammer and pliers;
• a set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
• electric planer;
• emery on wood;
• brushes for processing wood with a protective compound and paint;
• building level and plumb;
• measuring cord (twine);
• construction tape.

Please note: In the process of building a fence, you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, galvanized nails can be used, but self-tapping screws or bolted connections are much more durable. It is noteworthy that for the latter, you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse lags in advance.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step by step instructions

The construction of a wooden fence can be divided into three stages:

1. Installation of supporting pillars.
2. Installation of crossbars.
3. Frame sheathing.

Each of them deserves a more detailed description.

Installation of supports

Let's assume that the soil in the fenced area allows the installation of supporting fence posts using the backfilling method. Consider how this is done using the example of one of the supports:

1. Using a garden drill, a crowbar and a shovel, in one of the corners of the site we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep and 40–50 cm in diameter.
2. At the bottom of the pit we lay and carefully tamp a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick.
3. Place a support in the center of the hole. This is a profile pipe of square section, the outer edges of which must be parallel to both sleeves of the fence.
4. At a height of 20–25 cm, at the bottom of the pit, we pour a mixture of crushed stone with sand and carefully tamp it down.
5. We check the vertical of the support and the parallelism of its faces to the sleeves of the fence.
6. We fall asleep the next portion of the pillow of sand and gravel, tamp it down and again check the position of the support. And so to the very top of the pit.

Good to know: The sand-stone pillow will lie more densely during the backfilling process if it is abundantly moistened with water, while not forgetting to add sand.

Installation of transverse logs

Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made of a metal corner 35*35 mm. But in order to save time and materials, ready-made brackets can simply be bought at the store.

Installing the lag is done as follows:

Please note: The distance between the lags can be reduced if necessary, but this will adversely affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the web. The support should be at least 5-10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be at least 10-15 cm from the soil line.

Frame sheathing

Before proceeding with the installation of fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the fence is mounted on the logs before the latter are installed on the supports:

1. First of all, you need to set the crossbars at the right distance from each other, observing a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared coasters from improvised materials.
2. It does not hurt to make templates in advance, with which it is convenient to lay out the gaps between the boards.
3. The lower (or upper) edge of the canvas also does not hurt to put under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, set at the desired distance from the mounted one.
4. Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount the fence boards on the transverse logs. In this case, care must be taken not to cause deflection or any other stress in the web structure.
5. We raise the finished canvas of the fence and fix it with bolts on the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands 10-15 cm high. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for a successful landing of the structure on the bolts.
6. If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were set exactly, their ends will easily fit on the brackets.

Please note: The second way to install the sheathing is to install each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and tension is also created in the web structure due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the skin.

Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint

The wooden fence is operated in the open air all year round. And this means that all structural elements need reliable protection from moisture, temperature fluctuations, pests, rust and fire.

Good to know: The metal elements of the fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted joints, must be primed and coated with paint before installation. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the supporting pillars installed in the ground need additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing felt or bitumen. But first, to isolate the internal space of the profile pipe, it is necessary to weld plugs on its lower and upper ends.

In addition to moisture, harmful microorganisms and pests, ultraviolet radiation leads to a decrease in the life of a wooden fence. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their external attractiveness, but also their bearing capacity. To exclude premature wear of the structure, when applying the impregnation, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners.

The impregnating composition is laid in several layers on a deep penetration primer. Primed and impregnated wooden surfaces are covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the finishing touch in protecting the fence from aggressive operating factors.

Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence design.

The condition of the wooden fence must be closely monitored throughout the entire period of operation. Any damage or material wear should be repaired immediately, which will significantly increase the service life of the structure. As for the choice of how to design a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main ones being the aesthetic preferences of the site owner and his financial capabilities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even reinforced with forging, give it an original color by experimenting with impregnations and finishes, decorate with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is to reliably protect it from destruction by moisture, pests and fading in the sun at the very beginning.

Video: We build a wooden fence on our own

Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to carefully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions under which the fence will be operated. With careful attention to the basic design requirements, as well as the vagaries of the main material, self-construction of the fence will take a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.

Wooden fences among the owners of summer cottages are extremely popular. Nevertheless, sometimes you can hear how wood is called a cheap material, boring and boring. Whereas true connoisseurs understand that natural material is always beautiful, environmentally friendly, modern and stylish. And if the owner of the site has a taste, a wooden fence can look expensive and really impressive.

Peculiarities

The fence of the estate territory is one of the most necessary elements on the garden plot, regardless of its size. Such structures can be extremely diverse: carry a decorative function or protect the territory from intruders, be expensive or budget, complex configuration or ordinary picket fence.

Wood is extremely popular. Wood as a raw material is more expensive than profiled sheet, but cheaper than brick or wrought iron. In favor of the choice of this material is evidenced by such a property as environmental friendliness.

In our age of high technology and a large number of industrial facilities, when the "black sky" regime over cities has become commonplace, many people opt for natural materials. The tree becomes an outlet for people who care about their well-being and that of their loved ones.

A wooden fence can be painted, decorated with unique carvings, which often add chic to the entire garden. But even unpainted wood looks very good. Of course, wood is not as durable as, for example, brick or concrete. However, there are special compounds to treat and protect a wooden fence from fungus or wood bugs. And this will significantly increase the life of the structure. In addition, you can cover the structure with varnish, drying oil or special paint enriched with protective substances. This will also increase its service life.

It is no coincidence that a wooden fence is considered one of the most beautiful. Any wooden houses: not only from a log house or timber, but also those in which only wood-like finishes are used, look very harmonious, complemented by a fence made of the same material. As a rule, wood structures easily fit into any design solution.

Advantages and disadvantages

Wood has many advantages, and they are all quite significant.

• Wood is a natural and environmentally friendly material that does not litter the environment. It is light, lively, "breathing", which creates the feeling of a space filled with fresh air. In a plastic or glass interior, this cannot be experienced.
• A wooden fence does not require much effort to care for it; with the help of minimal skills, you can change a board that has failed, and in order to paint a structure, you just need to pick up a paint brush or roller.
• Practicality of structures made of wood. They protect from prying eyes and from bad weather, if properly cared for, they will last a long time. If you choose a durable species, such as larch, oak or ash, this will increase the life of the fence. At the same time, such structures pass air well and do not “suffocate”.
• Natural material harmonizes with the environment. A wooden fence can even become a real work of art if its owner has a taste. It is possible to decorate it as you like, and if you have the desire and ability, you can do it yourself.

• It is also important to take into account the relatively low cost, as well as simple installation. Even without resorting to the help of professionals, it is possible to create a fence on the site in the shortest possible time. There are very few designs and types that you can’t do yourself.
• A large number of options suitable for a variety of situations. Wooden fences are so different in appearance that in fact they have only one thing in common - the wood material from which they are made.
• Wood is also friendly to other materials, it combines perfectly with them. This makes it possible to come up with even more design options.
• An important fact is that the tree absorbs sounds well. In summer cottages or cottage settlements, the construction of such a fence and getting rid of unnecessary noise can be a big plus.

The disadvantages traditionally include a short service life(maximum ten years), easy flammability if the material has not been subjected to fire protection impregnations, as well as a tendency to soak and rot. However, with proper care and regular treatment with special compounds, the “life” of a wooden fence can be significantly extended. In addition, in the event of damage to one or two boards, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure, it is enough to replace only the part that is out of order.

You also need to take into account the rather low protective ability of wooden fences, unless, of course, this is a stockade with pointed tops. The rest of the species still perform a more decorative function, decorating the site and complementing the architecture of the house building.

Accordingly, if there is a desire (or need) for the fence to protect, it may make sense to consider other, more durable materials or wooden fences in combination, for example, with brick supports.

Kinds

When choosing a fence for your site, each homeowner draws his own conclusions: how much it costs to build one or another type of fence, which types are most popular, and which ones are durable. It is wood that is the unique material from which, if desired, you can build a thousand fences, while never repeating yourself.

There are several types of wooden fences:

• classical;
• palisade;
• log paving;
• fence;
• ladder (herringbone);
• blinds;
• ranch;
• wattle;
• lattice.

A classic wooden fence consists of boards fitted to each other with a solid canvas, which can be either vertical or horizontal. You can put it on a brick or stone foundation, or you can frame it with columns. This option is universal, applicable in almost any situation and for any site.

Unlike the classic picket fence, the canvas is formed strictly vertically. As the name suggests, this type consists of stakes driven into the ground. This is a very aggressive type of fence, especially if the upper ends of the logs are sharpened. In addition, due to the density, this fence requires a large amount of material, so it may not be too cheap. Of all types of wooden fences, this one provides the best protection, since there are few people who want to climb over the sharp peaks of the palisade.

Modern palisades look lighter than traditional ones; stakes are not always butt-fitted to each other. There are some fun designs, like lances that are painted and sharpened like pencils. The elements of the palisade, framed by stone pillars and foundations, look original.

In log paving, logs tightly fitted to each other are laid horizontally, vertically or at an angle. In order to join more tightly, the logs are sawn in half.

As for the picket fence, it is traditionally used for fencing exclusively summer cottages. Protection is not its function, as a rule, this type of fence is low and sparse, most often it is installed to mark the site. Although you can give it the desired height and reduce the width of the gaps, in this way, the temporary fence will turn into a full-fledged fence.

You can increase the aesthetic appeal of the fence by creating the necessary combination of pattern, spacing between the planks and the shape of the top edge, suitable for a particular area. This type is easy to install and inexpensive, but does not withstand mechanical stress. A low picket fence is ideally complemented by climbing plants.

This kind of picket fence as a "checkerboard" is distinguished by some as an independent form. Since each side of it is front due to the installation of the crate on the longitudinal logs, this option is extremely attractive and also durable.

An interesting solution to the chessboard, when the bottom of the board is fitted tightly, and gaps are left on top. Thus, the design achieves a balance between privacy and openness.

When constructing a Christmas tree (ladder), the boards are installed horizontally and overlapped, and thanks to the specific design of the fence, complete opacity is ensured with excellent ventilation.

For the construction of blinds, the boards are placed vertically or horizontally with a slight slope and stacked on top of each other by 1 or 2 cm. This method reliably hides from prying eyes. At the same time, a fence of this design allows air to pass through well, therefore it is relevant for wetlands and areas located in lowlands. You can fix the structure on metal poles.

Wattle (tyn) - again, from the name it is clear that this is a structure woven from shrubs or tree shoots. She is very beautiful, elegant, but extremely fragile. To maintain an aesthetically attractive appearance, it is necessary to periodically “weave” broken branches into the structure and cut off shoots growing in the wrong direction.

Such a fence looks interesting when it is woven for a flower bed to protect it from animal access. It is even more original when several flower beds are braided in this way. Also, to create this kind of fence, you can use wooden boxes.

However, it would be wrong to say that a wicker fence cannot be made of boards. On the contrary, such fences are popular, although more expensive. The most durable and solid among them is a wicker fence with brick pillars. It is very expensive, and its installation takes a lot of time, but the result can exceed all expectations.

A wicker fence with metal posts looks very impressive. It is being built much faster and easier, much cheaper than even a similar design with false pillars.

Ranch - this type of fencing came from America, where it is very popular. In Russia, it is no less popular, although it is called "fence". It is used, as a rule, for zoning a front garden, as well as fencing a place for walking farm animals. The “ranch” option, installed on a stone support with stone pillars, does not look beaten.

The most decorative of all types is the lattice. Planks can be placed at an angle, crosswise or braided, in any case it will come out aesthetically attractive. If you combine several types of “weaving” planks on one canvas, the fence will look even more impressive. The lattice used as a support for climbing plants or decorated with small baskets of flowers looks very nice.

Lattice fence is the most suitable type of fencing for decoration.

The listed species are the main ones, other subspecies are derived from them. You can list for a long time: cat ears, dog ears, peak, concave, double concave, convex - these are all types of fences. Each type performs its functions in accordance with the needs of the owner.

There are also options that combine two types of fences, for example, wickerwork and checkerboard or lattice and checkerboard.

materials

Most often, fences designed to protect the site are constructed using conifers: larch, spruce, cedar, pine. It should be borne in mind that pine is not the most durable material. To build a fence made of wood, any breed will do. The main thing is the quality of the wood.

If you need to get by with a minimum of funds, then the ideal option is pine or spruce boards treated with an antiseptic, which contains olive oil. However, it must be remembered that spruce is an extremely knotty material, subject, like pine, to increased cracking. However, sawing these rocks is much easier due to their softness.

It should be noted that during the construction of a wooden fence there are two options: budget and expensive. The most expensive option is larch.

If you expect exclusively decorative qualities from the fence, it is better to opt for hardwood: birch, beech, ash. The strength of this design may be low, but it will look very attractive.

Support columns can be made of bricks, timber, metal profiles, pipes and screw piles. Preferably brick or piles.

Depending on the type of fence being constructed, the material for its sheathing is also selected - logs (rounded or not), timber, boards, picket fence.

Having stopped on a log, it should be remembered that the fence made of it is extremely heavy, requires a more solid support, but at the same time it is highly durable and reliable.

As for the beam, it is divided into several types:

• whole;
• profiled;
• glued;
• spliced;
• double.

A bar is also a massive material, which makes the fence very heavy and makes it durable. As with choosing a log, a log fence requires very strong supporting posts.

If you decide to use boards, there are three types suitable for fence sheathing:

1. planed;
2. decorative;
3. unedged.

Most often, planed boards are used, they are universal, suitable for any fence. In addition, they are atraumatic, smooth and immediately ready for use.

For decorative boards, only the ends and sides are processed. Then they are aged with a special composition. This species is becoming more and more popular among sophisticated gardeners. The brushing method gives the wood an original texture. The only downside is the material is expensive.

The name "unedged board" speaks for itself - it is not treated with anything. This is economical, but fraught with splinters, cuts and other minor injuries. Therefore, if this type is acquired, it is better to process it yourself.

Perhaps the cheapest option for building a wooden fence is a slab, that is, a side cut of a log. One side of it is sawn, and the other is raw. We can say that the slab is a type of woodworking waste. Having sanded and cleaned the material from the bark, it is easy to build a practical and beautiful fence. It can be laid both horizontally and vertically, with or without gaps.

It is important to consider that only business slabs can be used for fencing.

However, there is also a more expensive (and high-quality) version of this material - the so-called block house, which in fact is not a pure slab, but its imitation. It is made from coniferous species, it costs several times more. It certainly looks more impressive.

It may be that the owner decides to combine materials by making a fence, for example, from wood and stone. This is a classic version, very attractive and interesting. Stone pillars act as support, they are connected by spans of wood.

If for some reason stone supports are not available, you can replace them with false pillars - metal structures with an indelible pattern that imitates stone or brick. Such poles look like real ones, they can be made according to the customer's sketch - for example, under a tree.

An interesting combination (and very innovative) is offered by designers to bold owners: stones are tightly poured into a double chain-link fence, and the structure is closed with wooden planks from above and below. This structure is called "gabion". It can also be used solo, dividing the space of the garden or recreation area into zones.

Regarding the quality of the material purchased for the construction of the fence, the following can be said.

• The plastic packaging in which the fence boards are located must be transparent. If it is not, then it is better not to make a purchase. In this case, a pig in a poke can not be purchased.
• If there are drops of water inside the package, then the boards are damp; when they dry, deformation may occur.
• Planed boards should not be rough or cracked. Also, they are unacceptable for the presence of chips.
• Screw curvature also speaks of marriage. The boards need to be level.
• Knotty wood is not good, even worse - if the knots fell out.
• The smell should be fresh, woody; the slightest hint of mold also means marriage, that is, rotting.
• The surface of the boards must not be wet.
• It is necessary to treat with doubt the presence of stains of unknown origin and the unnatural color of the boards, this also indicates poor quality material.

Style and design

The fence, both built around the house and located inside the site, should be in harmony directly with the house and other elements of the garden. It can be decorated in any style the owner wishes. Someone paints the fence, preferring this decor method to others. Someone decorates it with carved details, patterns, ornaments. Someone likes plants that twine a fence like a hedge.

You can decorate the fence as you like, as long as it does not change the sense of proportion and style. As for the design, at present, in addition to the standard forms of fences, a lot of new, original options are offered - convex, concave, wicker, puzzle gates, where each board is given an individual shape, and then they are all tightly fitted to each other in an intricate pattern.

Of course, wood carving remains the most popular solution chosen by owners to decorate their fence.

The thread can be:

• Geometric- this is a very difficult type of activity, since it is necessary to cut a pattern consisting of geometric shapes on the surface of the wood using a special knife and chisel;
• contour– also performed manually; the desired pattern is applied to the wood with a pencil, after which its contour is knocked out with a chisel. The result is a three-dimensional carved pattern, which can be given depth if the recesses are painted in one shade, and the rest in another;
• Lace- the easiest way, its essence is that a pattern is applied to a wooden blank. After that, a hole is drilled into which the jigsaw knife is installed, and then they only work with it.

Provence-style fences can be decorated with any elements that come to mind - from birdhouses to flower pots. Fans of country style should take a closer look at the darkened unpainted wood, of course, in good condition.

Regarding the rustic style, we can say that this is the simplest thing that exists, and a minimum of funds is enough to create a fence in this style - the same slab. The effect that such a fence creates, if it was created not hastily, but with taste and, as they say, with soul, is many times greater than the effort expended.

How to do it yourself?

It happens that the owner does not want to resort to the services of professionals, wanting to independently build a wooden fence in his garden. This is quite realistic if you calculate the amount of materials and meticulously follow the steps of the step-by-step instructions. Moreover, installing a fence with your own hands can turn into an exciting activity for one person or for the whole family.

Before starting work, you need to calculate how many boards you will need. It's not hard. It is necessary to divide the length of the proposed fence by the width of the board - if it is planned, for example, to erect a palisade. If the fence is not continuous, then the width of the board is added to the width of the gap, then the length of the fence is divided by this number.

In any case, it is better to purchase boards a little more than required. Especially if they are non-trivial, and it will be difficult to buy them in case of shortage.

However, an experienced summer resident knows that the store does not sell boards, but cubic meters of wood. But that's not a problem. To find out how many cubic meters of wood will be needed for the construction, you must first multiply the length, width and thickness of one board. After that, we multiply the resulting number by the previously calculated number of boards. Everything is ready, cubic meters are calculated.

The easiest to perform is a picket fence with gaps. For its construction, one cannot do without drawing accessories - rulers, squares, pencils. In addition, you need a hacksaw for wood and, if you plan to cut curly elements, a jigsaw. To dig, you need a shovel; to drill, you need a drill. It is obvious.

The number of required accessories such as self-tapping screws and metal corners should be calculated in advance.

• The beginning of any construction is the marking of the territory and the determination of the line where the fence will pass. This area must be cleared and the old building, if any, dismantled.
• When the length and place are determined, you need to drive in pegs along the entire length of the future fence. As soon as the place for the gate (or gate, or both) is determined, the points of the supporting pillars are marked at a distance of 2 to 3 m between each.
• Next - time to install the base. It can be a foundation or the installation of support pillars. Pillars can be driven in or planted on a concrete base. The depth to which the supports are dug in should not be less than 0.7 m. At this stage, you need to control the height of the supports.
• Part of the supports that enter the ground is recommended to be treated with liquid bitumen, this will significantly strengthen the base, as well as extend the life of the fence as a whole.
• It is most reliable to fill the hole where the support is installed with liquid concrete. Then the supports will definitely not loosen.

• Two crossbars (upper and lower) are attached to the support posts on nails or self-tapping screws. If the fence is high, you can attach a third one - in the middle.
• Form the body of the fence by attaching the boards. The choice of the method of fastening the boards depends on the chosen type of fence and the desire of the owner. If you wish, you can not be limited to a simple horizontal or vertical layout by forming an ornament (having previously thought out how to do this).
• To give additional strength to the structure, it is recommended to attach the boards to pre-installed metal corners.
• After that, it remains to treat the fence with protective compounds, for example, impregnation from moisture.
• For the manufacture of the gate, the canvas is collected separately.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands, see the following video.

In order for the fence to last as long as possible, it is necessary to properly care for it. Flame retardants and other substances, if treated with wood before installation, will protect it from decay, insects, and sunlight.

Through the use of various types of paint, you can both enhance the qualities of wood and decorate the fence. Currently, paints not only give color, but also carry out a number of protective functions. Before painting, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned and dried, if possible degreased. If there are traces of the old coating, they must be removed with a scraper or a stiff brush.

Most often, staining is done with a brush, less often with an airbrush. It is necessary to paint along the fibers, at least in 2 layers in case of primary painting. If you need to update the paint, one layer is enough. It is better not to start this kind of work in heat, rain or wind.

It must be remembered that not a single, even the most potent remedy, will always work. Therefore, the regularity of processing should become the rule for caring for the fence.

There are several effective formulations, for example:

• Toplasur Belinka. Suitable for all types of wood. It is not subject to tinting, it is available in ready-made shades. Helps the material withstand adverse weather conditions.
• Holzlasur Gel JOBI. It has the property of repelling water, it adheres well to the surface. Prevents the development of wood diseases (fungus, rot and others). Translucent.
• Pinotex ultra. It has the same properties as the composition above. However, it is opaque, subject to tinting.
• Tikkurila valtti color extra. About 40 shades, protects from direct sunlight and precipitation.
• Olympus Omicron. Protects against factors such as mold, insects, moisture, UV. Has a small consumption, economical. Is tinted.

To extend the life of the fence during the construction period, the following conditions must be met:

• make sure that there are no anthills or overgrown bushes in the area where the fence is planned to be installed;
• impregnate the boards with antiseptics before starting installation;
• after finishing it, prime the entire surface; choose a warm day for this when the tree dries;
• the primer should be made with paint, which contains a lot of natural oils.

To provide the fence with additional protection, a visor is installed on the top of the fence, which is attached to additional slats. This will protect the fence from precipitation. It can be either a visor made of wood, or made of metal or metal-plastic. The color can be either tone-on-tone or contrast with the fence, depending on the general intention of the owner. The shape of the ridge can be different - either an angle, or a semicircular, or in the form of the letter P.

Constant removal of excess grass is necessary to protect the bottom of the fence. The more it grows near the fence, the higher the level of moisture, and this, in turn, can lead to decay. To avoid this, after the grass is removed, gravel can be poured.

Beautiful examples and options

Below are options for different wooden fences - for a private house, cottage, garden. Even in this small sample, you can see how diverse wood can be, harmoniously adapting to any style and side by side with any other material.

• Massive "antique" fences give solidity and status.
• Original wooden picket fence. A simple and elegant version of the lattice looks great on a concrete foundation. It is thanks to concrete that the proximity to the lawn does not cause wood decay.

• And you can make a wicker fence made of hazel. An interesting wattle variant is an original companion for a concrete platform.
• A horizontal fence made of boards, arranged according to the wattle principle, is a very interesting specimen. The upper metal bar in the shape of the letter U reliably protects the wood from precipitation.

• Slab fence on a concrete foundation. A great example of how expensive cheap material can be. Due to the tight fit of the boards to each other, an intricate pattern has developed on the canvas, and the ridge-bar on top protects from the destructive environmental factors.
• Antique wooden fence in country style with imitation of rope stitches. Deliberately simple technique at the same time looks very unusual.

• A wooden fence with brick pillars looks very massive. The construction is strong and durable. The concrete base gives additional solidity.
• And here is this inexpensive, original and attractive design: a fence made of wood (Euro fence) on false poles.

• Gabions are containers made of metal or plastic nets. The solution is innovative, unhackneyed and attractive in appearance. Suitable both for combination with other material in the fence canvas, and for independent use - for space zoning.

The construction of a beautiful fence is the logical conclusion to the design of home ownership, protection from other people's indiscreet looks and decoration of the site. The decision to make a wooden fence with your own hands, despite the cheapness, requires preparation and accurate calculation.

Wooden fence: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is one of the most attractive materials for making a fence, however, it is capricious in operation, and the durability of a fence made of this material largely depends on the choice of wood type.

For the manufacture of the simplest picket fence, coniferous woods are usually chosen, which are cheap and less prone to decay. Of course, no one will forbid making a fence made of oak or beech, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny.

Advantages of wood:

1. Environmental friendliness;
2. Availability of the material;
3. Low cost;
4. Ease of processing and installation;
5. High decorative.

Material disadvantages:

1. Fragility (some breeds);
2. Tendency to crack;
3. Rotting in conditions of high humidity;
4. fire hazard;
5. Pest damage.

Since some of the shortcomings can be eliminated by various impregnations, wood for fencing is most often chosen.

Varieties of wooden fences

For thousands of years, wood has been the only building material; our ancestors have accumulated vast experience in using wood for various purposes, including fences.

The figure shows the most common designs of picket fences, but this is the simplest design of boards - a picket fence, in addition to it, they are made of wood:

1. wattle;
2. boardwalk;
3. pole;
4. palisade;
5. panel;
6. ranch.

With a little imagination, any of these fences can be made a visiting card of the site, and, explaining the way to guests, the neighbors will say: this is where the fence is beautiful (unusual, stunning, unique)!

Examples of options in the photo

A low fence opens a playground on the site to the neighbors A fence of boards arranged in a checkerboard pattern blocks the view of the site A wickerwork of boards located at an angle can serve as a support for climbing plants Passing by such a fence, you involuntarily smile The fence pattern is made in such a way that a high fence is made from short dies A picket fence, supplemented with end saw cuts of a tree, becomes a blank fence Mirror film pasted on picket fences turns an ordinary fence into an art object There is no place for pests in a garden with such fences.

Construction preparation

Even such a seemingly simple matter as fencing a site with your own hands requires:

1. preliminary acquaintance with the normative documentation;
2. project development;
3. determining the need for materials;
4. budgeting.

Current regulations

Standards for the construction of fences for summer cottages are prescribed in SP 53.13330.2011 "SNiP" 30-02-97 * "Planning and building up the territories of gardening (summer) associations of citizens. Buildings and constructions":

• Fences between sections should have a height of no more than 1.5 m, mesh or lattice;
• By decision of the general meeting of members of the partnership, the fencing of the site from the side of the street or passage may be deaf, but not higher than 2.2 meters;
• The distance between the fence supports is taken 2-3 meters;
• Each rack requires a point foundation with a depth of 0.8 to 0.9 meters;
• Recommended racks - from metal rectangular pipes with a section of 4x6 centimeters.

In addition to the general requirements for the state, local authorities can introduce their own standards, therefore, before starting the design, it is advisable to consult the regional service in charge of the general plan.

Design

Having defined the requirements, you can start designing. The basis for the project will be the cadastral plan of the site, indicating the boundaries. According to the plan, the total length of the perimeter and the size of each side are calculated separately. These dimensions will allow you to calculate the number of sections of the fence and the size of the additional sections. On a separate sheet of paper, a diagram of the site is applied on a scale, indicating all sizes. Do not forget about the gate for entry and the gate for entry.

When constructing a wooden fence, experts recommend making the distance between the supports no more than 2.5 meters, since with an increase in the span, the deflection of the horizontal crossbars increases, which can cause deformation of the structure.

We apply all dimensions to the drawing of an ordinary section of the fence, including the underground part of the pillar

For an ordinary section with a height of one and a half meters, a drawing is also being developed.

Having decided on the type of fence, a typical section of the fence is drawn separately on a scale, including the foundation for the support, with all dimensions.

The bottom line of the railing should be raised 10–15 cm above ground level, the posts should exceed the railing by 10 cm or more.

We accept for corner supports, gate posts and gates a pipe with a section of 60x60 mm, intermediate 40x60 mm. If the soil is in the area of ​​neutral acidity, and the groundwater level is below one and a half meters, the racks can be installed by partial concreting or backfilling. In this case, the racks are buried in the soil to a depth of 0.8–1.2 meters, but not less than a fourth of their total height.

Material selection

From a huge number of types of wood for fences, it is best to choose conifers:

• they grow everywhere;
• due to the saturation of the structure with resin, the wood is resistant to moisture and solar radiation;
• have a low cost.

Of course, you can make a fence of ash or oak, it will be more durable than a fence of spruce or pine, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny. The best choice is larch, the most resistant to moisture of all conifers, which has an adequate price.

If desired, in addition to edged boards, the fence can be made of cheaper materials - slab or unedged boards. Improvised materials may also come in handy - sawmill waste, deadwood, pallets (pallets), old door panels or window frames.

Old pallets should be used with care: they are often made from hardwoods, such as birch, which does not tolerate moisture and rots in the air.

Calculation of the need for materials

The calculation of the required amount of materials is carried out based on the geometric dimensions of the site. Suppose the site has a square shape measuring 30x30 meters, fenced on three sides with a picket fence 1.5 meters high, from the side of the passage - a blind fence 2 meters high, with a gate 2.5 meters wide and a gate 1 meter wide. The depth of soil freezing is 1.4 meters, the aquifer is at a depth of 3.3 meters.

Based on the size of the site, we determine the need for materials

Racks from a pipe with a section of 60x60 mm, height 3.0 m

The length of the fence along the driveway

L1= 30–(2.5+1)=26.5 m

Number of racks

L1: 2.5 + 1+2 =26.5: 2.5 +3= 13.6

Since we have an additional section, we take the number of racks equal to 14.

To seal the ends of the racks, you will need a strip of 100 x 4 mm, 100 mm long, with a total length of 9.8 m.

The total length of the picket fence with a height of 1.5 m:

The number of racks from a pipe with a section of 40x60 mm and a height of 2.5 m will be:

L2: 2.5 -1 = 90:2.5 - 1 = 36 –1= 35 pcs.

We carry out horizontal logs from a board with a section of 40x100 mm long:

L3= 2.5 - 0.07 = 2.43 m

The number of lags is equal to the number of ordinary sections of the fence, multiplied by two:

(12 x 3 + 10) x 2= 92

For an additional section with a width of 1.5 m, two boards 40x100 with a length of 1.43 m are needed.

We fasten the logs to metal corners from a 30x3 profile, each 60 mm long, the total number is 94 pieces, equal to the number of logs.

For a fence 1.5 m high, we take planks 10 cm wide, 22 mm thick, 1.35 m high with a gap of 4 cm between the planks, 17 pickets are required for an ordinary section, the total number:

17 x 46 +10 = 792 pcs.

For a blind fence 2 m high, planks 10 cm wide, 1.85 m high, 25 mm thick are needed. Their number will be equal to 25 pieces. per section, total:

25 x 11 = 275 pcs.

In addition, you will need self-tapping screws for attaching the corners to the uprights and crossbars to the corners, nails for attaching the fence to the crossbars.

For foundations, based on the depth of pits of 1 m with a diameter of 40 mm, 6 - 6.5 m3 of crushed stone will be required.

Volume of wood:

1. Boards 40x100 mm - 92 x 2.5 x 0.1 x 0.04 +2 x 1.5 x0.1 x 0.04 = 0.94 m3
2. Boards 100x22 mm - 1.5 x 0.1 x 0.022 x 792 = 2.38 m3
3. Boards 100x25 mm - 2 x 0.1 x 0.025 x 275 = 1.38 m3

Metal volume:

1. Racks 60x60 - 3.0 x 14 \u003d 42 m.p.
2. Racks 40 x 60 - 2.5 x 35 \u003d 87.5 m.
3. Corner 30 x 3 60 mm long - 94 x 0.06 \u003d 5.64 m.
4. Steel strip 100 x 4 - 9.8 m.

Wood will require impregnation and paint or a complex composition that protects wood from pests, adverse weather conditions and fire. For metal, a layer of soil is required, waterproofing for the underground part of the racks and a protective coating.

Since the fence boards do not do any work, the choice of thickness is determined by the flexibility. From experience it is known that for horizontal boards - a lag of 100 x 40 mm is enough, for a fence 1.5 m high with two attachment points, a board 22 mm thick is suitable, for a height of 2 m - a board 25 mm thick.

Required Tools

To complete the foundations, you will need a garden earthen drill or you will have to dig holes 1–1.2 meters deep and 40 cm in diameter manually.

The toolbox includes:

• Electric jigsaw;
• Circular saw with discs for metal work;
• Welding machine;
• Electroplaner;
• Electric drill with drills for metal and wood;
• Hacksaw for wood;
• A hammer;
• Pliers;
• Screwdrivers;
• Universal wrench;
• Building level, horizontal and vertical;
• Roulette;
• Cord or twine;
• Brushes.

Installation of a fence, step-by-step instructions for building a do-it-yourself

The fencing of the site is carried out in several stages:

1. Rack preparation;
2. Installation of fence sections;
3. Marking in kind of the fence;
4. Excavation;
5. Installation of racks;
6. Fencing installation.

There is another method of installation, when all elements are fixed in place sequentially, without preparation. This method has the right to exist, however, it will take more time, and it is inconvenient to mount corners for attaching lags to the installed rack.

1. Preparing racks

For each rack, in accordance with the drawing, for ordinary racks on the long sides, two corners are attached to self-tapping screws, for corner racks - on two adjacent sides. Plates - plugs are welded to the ends of the racks. The welds are cleaned, the racks are covered with primer, then with paint.2. Installation of picket fence sections

Pegs or reinforcement are driven into the installation site of the corner posts

A cord or twine is pulled along the perimeter of the site between the corner pegs. Using a tape measure, determine the installation sites of ordinary racks.

4. Earthworks

With a garden drill we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep for corner posts and fence posts along the driveway, a hole 0.8–1 m deep for the remaining posts. At the bottom of the pit we pour sand with a layer of 0.1 - 0.2 m, and compact it well.

5. Installation of racks

We carry out waterproofing of the underground part of the racks, wrapping them with bitumen-polymer material on mastic or covering them with a special waterproofing compound for metal. We install the racks, fixing them in the recesses with the help of pieces of reinforcement or corners. We fill the crushed stone with a layer of 20 - 25 cm, check the verticality of the support, tamp it down, moisten the layer with water. The operation is repeated until the pit is leveled with the ground surface.

6. Installation of the fence

We mount the prepared fence panels. If the posts are installed correctly, at the right distance, height and without distortion, the fence sections are mounted without problems. Fence logs are installed on the corners fixed on the racks, and screwed with self-tapping screws.

7. Painting the fence

Painting and protecting the wood of the fence can be done in different ways, which are discussed in the next section.

Materials for protecting and tinting wood

Until recently, wood stain, drying oil and PF-115 paint were offered to protect and color wood, but now eyes widen on the shelves of stores with such products. Wood coloring should have the following qualities:

• Resistance to low and high temperatures, precipitation, wind;
• Resistance to sunlight;
• Resistance to pests, rot and fungus;
• Durability;
• Fire safety.

For protection and tinting, compositions are offered:

• Paints;
• Enamel;
• azure

• Belinka, Slovenia;
• Tikkurila, Finland;
• ALPINA, Germany;
• Teknos, Finland;
• AQUATEX, RF;
• Yaroslavl colors.

In order for the fence to serve for a long time, you will have to work hard: processing takes place in several stages:

• dirt cleaning,
• grinding;
• Dust removal;
• Primer with a complex composition that gives wood fire resistance, resistance to rot, fungus;
• tinting.

There are many options for painting the picket fence, if you wish, you can add your own method to the existing ones.