Wiring in a wooden house - design, installation and basic safety requirements (120 photos). Hidden wiring in a wooden house: PUE Electrics in a wooden house hidden installation

Electricity is an essential part of everyday life. It is quite difficult to install electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands. Must have knowledge of electricity and follow all rules and regulations. By following the instructions below, you will carry out the installation yourself, without the help of professional electricians.

What electrical wiring is suitable for a wooden house?

Wooden housing is one of the oldest traditions of world architecture. Even today, in the conditions of a wide choice of various building materials, many owners prefer to build a structure made of wood on their suburban area.

Modern housing cannot be imagined without power supply. Electrical wiring in a wooden house has a number of features, primarily related to the increased risk of fire and requirements for laying cables.

Open or closed?

In wooden buildings, electrical wiring is done in an open or hidden way. The first method involves placing the wiring externally, on the wall or ceiling. This can be done as follows:

In addition to the open one, there is also a hidden method of wiring installation. It can be used if the final covering of the premises has not yet been carried out. In this case, the wiring is laid in a metal conduit or metal pipes; the use of plastic is prohibited. The method is quite expensive, but the electrical wires will be reliably hidden from prying eyes.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question which method of installing electrical wiring is suitable for a wooden house. In each case, this is determined individually, taking into account the level of skill of the electrician, the presence or absence of devices and tools for a specific job.

Drawing up a diagram

All work on installation or modification of electrical wiring begins with the creation of a general diagram. A well-designed project will allow you to install wiring in accordance with the requirements of regulations and GOSTs. When drawing up a diagram, special attention is paid to the following points:

Required components

Before installation begins, the necessary tools and components are selected. An example kit for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands includes:

1. Set of tools with insulating handles. The kit may include screwdrivers, pliers, a knife for working with electrical wiring, etc.
2. Electrical panel. There are devices on sale made of plastic or metal. Metal is ideal for wooden buildings. The size of the electrical panel depends on the number of cables that will be laid in accordance with the developed circuit.
3. Electrical cable.
4. Switches and sockets. The number of such devices depends on the number of electrical appliances to be powered.
5. If you plan to do external wiring, you need to purchase cable channels. For the internal one you will need a metal corrugated pipe.
6. Counter.
7. Distribution boxes, self-tapping screws, insulating clamps, electrical tape.

Calculation of materials and selection of suitable equipment

To calculate the required amount of wire, it is enough to sketch the diagram in detail and measure all the walls. During the work, it is very important not to make a mistake and choose a cable of suitable thickness.

The voltage of the standard electrical wiring of a residential building is 220 or 380 V. When calculating the load, the following should be taken as the nominal value:

1. If there are no electric stoves in the house - 5.5 kW.
2. If there are electric stoves - 8.8 kW or more.

You should also pay attention to the living space. The nominal value is taken to be 60 sq. m. If this indicator is exceeded, the calculated load increases by 1 percent for each additional square meter.

Based on the planned power, the cross-section of the wires is also calculated. Basic data is shown in the table:

Wire thickness, mm.	Copper wire		Aluminum wire
	Current, A	power, kWt	Current, A	power, kWt
0,75	8,0	1,8	-	-
1,0	9,0	2,0	-	-
1,2	-	-	8,0	1,8
1,5	12,0	2,6	-	-
2,0	-	-	12,0	2,6
2,5	20,0	4,4	16,0	3,5
4,0	25,0	5,5	20,0	4,4
6,0	32,0	7,0	25,0	5,5
10,0	50,0	11,0	40,0	8,8
16,0	65,0	14,3	50,0	11,0
25,0	95,0	21,0	70,0	15,4

A three-core copper cable VVG is suitable for a wooden house. When choosing it, you need to pay attention to the labeling. For example, if the brand indicates VVG3*2.5, the number 3 here means the number of cores, 2.5 - the cross-section.

The size of the electrical panel depends on the planned number of cables. Standard wiring may include a lighting cable, socket, electric stove, meter (three places required) and an RCD (2 places). In this case, you can install a 12-seat shield.

The choice of outlets is influenced by the aesthetic component. For wooden buildings, switches with a ceramic base and contact groups made of brass or bronze are suitable. Specific models depend on whether the electrical wiring is internal or external.

The electricity meter is selected according to its accuracy class and number of tariffs. Modern devices are divided into single-tariff and two-tariff, which count energy separately according to day and night tariffs. Accuracy class - no less than second.

Preparatory work

Before carrying out work indoors, you need to pay attention to the line input. Over the past couple of decades, the number and power of household electrical appliances has grown exponentially, increasing energy consumption, and the old line may not be able to cope. The second reason is the constant exposure of the cable to sunlight and other external factors outside the home. Metal strands gradually become exposed, which makes the use of electrical wiring less safe.

One of the weak points is the cable entry into the house, which is often routed through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time it was believed that to ensure safety it was enough to place the wire in a rubber hose. It did not take into account that rubber is a conductive material, and as it ages, areas of sparking and local heating may appear.

To install a line in a wooden house, you can use one of two methods: underground and aerial.

The first method is quite expensive. It requires excavation work, placing the cable at a depth of about a meter, and marking the security zone with appropriate signs. Thick-walled metal sleeves are installed in places where they pass through the foundation and enter the house. This method is most often used when constructing a new house.

An overhead line will require an electrical wire with a cross-section of 16 millimeters or more. The so-called SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) is often used, the service life of which exceeds 25 years. The connection of the external line to the input line is carried out exclusively outside the building. Installation of cable channels and wiring is carried out after the initial shrinkage of the house and drying of the wood of the walls. Otherwise, the slightest changes in the “geometry” will lead to deformation and destruction of the box.

Installation work: step-by-step instructions

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house occurs in several stages:

1. Laying the main cable.
2. Installation of distribution boxes.
3. Installation of sockets and switches.
4. Installation of lighting fixtures.
5. Installation of electrical panel.
6. Installation of the ground loop.

Let's consider each of the listed stages in more detail.

Cabling

Wiring is usually installed in cable ducts or baseboards. This happens in several stages:

Installation of distribution boxes

At each node where branches for sockets and switches extend from the main cable, a distribution box is installed. In this distributor, the cable is separated and directed to the right places in the rooms.

Inside the junction box, the cable can be connected in several ways:

Installation of switches and sockets

Sockets and switches are attached directly to the wall. A layer of insulation is pre-laid. Aluminum or asbestos is often used for this purpose.

Wiring goes as smoothly as possible

The sockets are screwed on tightly enough. This eliminates further swaying and loosening. If a cable with three wires is suitable for the outlet, the yellow and green go to the ground contact, the last one goes to the power. The connection diagram is shown in the figure below (L - phase, N - zero, PE - ground).

Installation of lighting fixtures

In wooden buildings, several groups of lighting devices are usually used:

1. Built-in
2. Invoices
3. Street.

All lamps, sconces and other similar electrical appliances must be equipped with a special metal platform for attaching the product to the ceiling or wall. Such installation of electrical equipment is considered optimal from a fire safety point of view.

To connect lamps, yellow-green group wiring is used

Connecting the luminaires themselves to the main network is very simple: using wires of the yellow-green group. Each lighting fixture includes contacts for such a connection.

Distribution panel

After entering the house, the main cable, without any branches, goes to the distribution panel. This device consists of several elements:

Installing the memory

The PE bus, which acts as a grounding bus, is connected to a grounding device.

This device is placed in the ground, next to the wall of the house. Visually, this is several steel rods, usually three or more. Diameter - 1.6 cm, length - about three meters. They are connected using a welded strip 4*40 mm. This device is placed completely underground; a 4*40 mm strip is supplied to the wall for connection to the bus.

To connect the device to the bus, a single-core wire is used, the cross-section of which is greater than or equal to the cross-section of the input cable.

Upon completion of all installation work, the resistance of the charger is measured. For a single-phase network this figure should be less than 8 ohms, for a three-phase network - less than 4.

Features of closed wiring

Closed wiring is installed almost identically to open wiring. The same cables marked VVG are suitable for both types.

Hidden wiring is carried out before the final wall covering. The wires are hidden in a metal pipe; the use of plastic is strictly prohibited. If it is necessary to make a turn, use a curved pipe. As an option - a regular one, and another one is welded to it.

Before final covering of walls and pipes, it is necessary to organize the output of all necessary cables to the outside. In predetermined places, holes are prepared for switches, sockets and distribution boxes. A separate hole is required for the distribution board.

Surface-mounted switches and sockets are attached to the wiring

When drilling holes for branch boxes and sockets, you can use wood drill bits. The main requirement is to be careful, otherwise you may damage the cable.

The opening for the distribution board depends on its type. If it is overhead, the holes have an arbitrary shape, the edges are hidden under the protective material. When installing a built-in panel, the hole in the paneling must correspond to its size and shape, taking into account that the side will hide the edge.

After covering the walls and preparing the required holes, all boxes and sockets are installed. In most cases, overhead devices are used: drilling all the holes in a solid wooden wall is dangerous from a fire safety point of view.

Following the rules of technology and safety precautions will allow you to independently install electrical wiring in a wooden house. In such buildings it is especially important to comply with fire safety rules.

Thanks to the latest options for indoor electrical distribution, hidden wiring in a wooden house has become an alternative, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with the PUE.

To engage in the reproduction of hidden electricity, it is important to be as prepared as possible, since there are new, but very specific risks. It is important to study a number of standards and GOSTs and only then proceed with the installation of the current method for laying electricity.

Advantages of hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses

Everyone is familiar with the design firsthand, and if it is disrupted by banal electrical wiring, it will be obvious. Let's consider a number of advantageous features:

Hidden wiring in a wooden house is installed not only according to regulatory requirements, but also taking into account aesthetic considerations.

Some rules that must be used

As we said, neglecting the rules when working with electrical networks has a dangerous outcome.

Important! Compliance with state standards regarding the installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is a chance for the successful operation of electrical appliances.

We are for safety! To avoid any problems after installation, it is important to carry out all work exclusively according to the instructions in the diagram. You can draw up such a diagram yourself or find it on the Internet, selecting it according to the conditions of building a house. This is the only way safety can be guaranteed.

Let's prevent fire! Try to lay electrical wiring in places where there is no risk of wood ignition in the event of a short circuit or overcurrent breakdown. Installation is usually carried out on non-combustible materials, for example, in partitions.

We preserve the interior of the house! To make branching wires invisible, they should be made in baseboards, door frames or near windows, placing them in special wooden boxes. You can also make an electrical network in special pipes with corrugated insulation, and you can put an asbestos gasket in it. It protects the insulation from powerful wiring.

Such a wiring connection in wood is prohibited.

Accounting for free access! Despite maintaining the design solutions of the living space, it is important at any time to quickly get to the boxes where all the conductors are hidden. It happens that you have to fix some damage, and tearing down half a wall to do this will cost you a lot of money.

Hidden wiring in insulation in wood

How should hidden wiring be inserted into a wooden house?

Many would-be electricians try to use the most primitive and lightweight methods to connect their wooden home to the general electrical network. However, this issue also has its own nuances. We invite you to consider them.

1. Under no circumstances should you be guided by the old methods of installing electrics in your home. It is likely that such options have not met the requirements for a long time.
2. It is not recommended to place conductors on ceramic heads attached to the street wall of a wooden house, as they say - this is a time bomb! Sooner or later you will face a fire problem.
3. The electrical network should not be installed through a wooden attic. In damp conditions and an unheated roof space, the insulating layer is often damaged, resulting in a risk of a short circuit.
4. Use approved wiring entry methods. One of the optimal ones is the air method. But its disadvantage is that for implementation it is necessary to attract professional electricians.
5. Underground wiring is characterized by reliability and durability. These qualities are due to the fact that the wires are completely hidden and are not exposed to atmospheric phenomena or mechanical influences caused by the human factor.

Important! The difficulty of installing hidden wiring in a house has been proven by carrying out labor-intensive tasks.

This type of wiring is prohibited.

Remember that not one centimeter of the electrical cable should not come into contact with wooden walls or other ceilings, therefore, steel or copper tubes are a prerequisite for electrical wiring in wooden housing.

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Installation of hidden wiring in a wooden house using PEU: cable laying with step-by-step instructions

Many owners of wooden buildings were able to verify that they have many advantages over brick and other structures. Despite this, wooden buildings also have a number of disadvantages, among which rapid combustion should be especially emphasized.

Often, such fires occur not because of trivial reasons such as careless handling of fireplaces, stoves and other heating appliances, but because of the incorrect location of electrical wiring and its incorrect installation option in advance.

Electrical wiring: how not to install it

The rules for electrical installations, or PUE, are the bible of every electrician and they indicate exactly how electrical wiring should be installed. If you follow these rules, the operation of the house will be as safe as possible, and the installation itself will be reliable and durable.

According to the PUE, laying cables on wooden structures of a residential building and especially cladding with highly flammable materials is strictly prohibited. It would be a big mistake if you trust the quality of the wiring winding, since the design of any cable involves a huge number of different processes that, in principle, cannot be predicted.

These include:

• Wiring deformation at the micro level.
• Temperature changes.
• Increase and decrease in air humidity.
• Possibility of dust accumulation.

Sometimes, when electrical wiring in a wooden house is laid parallel to each other, especially in the absence of protection from the base and when the voltage in the electrical network increases, a fire may occur.

Again, as the rule states, namely clause 7.1.38 of the PUE, installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house cannot be carried out on top of wooden structures. It is also prohibited to place cables in plastic boxes and corrugations.

Why can't I install plastic components? Because they can cause dangerous situations due to rodent damage and the accumulation of wood dust, which is extremely flammable.

It is important to note that if hidden wiring catches fire, even if hidden in corrugation, the increased temperature will certainly be transferred to the walls, since any corrugated product is not able to prevent high temperatures.

In this regard, some builders are interested in why corrugation is needed and what is its meaning? In fact, corrugated structures are necessary because their purpose is to withstand short circuits without burning out in the time required for self-extinguishing.

If full-fledged action is necessary, it is necessary to use steel components, which are precisely what these very rules recommend.

How to properly install wiring

Today, every electrician, if asked, can answer that there are many ways to install electrical wiring, but if the electrical installation is in accordance with the PUE, there are only a few. The most important thing to focus on is fire safety requirements, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s design or installation.

If you consider the installation of wiring in a building made of rounded logs, you can see that it runs exclusively in non-flammable channels. If a fire does occur, it is immediately extinguished in the box itself.

The main rule is that there is no need to strive and put exceptional design and visual beauty first! If all this is not omitted, then you can lose such beauty and, in addition, suffer yourself.

When laying wires in a wooden house, it is best to hide them in metal pipes and steel boxes, which can be hidden in numerous voids. If you lay cables in corrugations and installation boxes using exclusively non-flammable materials, then you must prepare special gaskets for installation in advance in the form of:

• Plasters.
• Plaster.
• Concrete.

The thickness of these gaskets should be selected individually depending on the characteristics of a particular cable.

If you follow the rules of electrical installations, then the most reliable is installation in boxes and pipes made of steel or copper. For example, copper pipes, if necessary, can be bent at the required angle independently and without unnecessary effort, and this is a significant advantage in an extensive power supply scheme.

If, when laying cables in a wooden house according to the PUE, you use steel pipes, then it is recommended to invite qualified workers to install them, since working with steel is much more difficult, especially if the replacement occurs in parts.

Again, cutting the sharp edges on the boxes also requires skill, and if this is not done, the wiring can be seriously damaged.

Where to start

Without the PUE, literally not a single step can be taken in any actions that relate to electrical wiring, including when selecting and marking the electrical wiring line.

When marking, it is advisable to try to keep the possible number of bends and turns as small as possible, and in places where installation of electrical wiring is possible, but complicated by complex architectural solutions, it is strictly necessary to use junction boxes.

PUE rules strictly prohibit installing junction boxes in hard-to-reach places. They must have absolutely free access, which may be needed in unexpected situations.

In order not to damage the structure of the house, steel or copper pipes should be placed with the necessary calculations. Depending on the electrical wiring, the required thickness of the tubes and their cross-section are selected, since the cable itself, according to the rules, can occupy up to 40% of the internal space and, if necessary, can be easily pulled into the cavity of the pipe.

If it is customary to lay not one wire, but 2 or 3, then the pipe should be selected with a larger diameter, since the rules remain the same - up to 40%.

You should also calculate the insulation resistance and this is done before the installation of the wiring begins. This is necessary for:

• So that you can determine whether the wire meets the requirements.
• Find out possible damage to the insulation during transportation and storage.
• To comply with the same rules regarding the preparatory stage.

How to choose electrical wiring

When the stage, which includes marking the nodes and developing circuits, has come to completion, it is necessary to select the wire itself, which will have to be used for installation. Wooden structures should choose wires of the following markings:

• VVGng-PLS.
• VVGng (A).
• VVGngLS.
• VVGng-P (A).

Wires VVGng (A) or VVGng-P (A) have solid copper construction and double insulation. The inner layer is made strictly of non-flammable PVC and, most importantly, each core is protected separately and has its own color, which greatly facilitates the installation of any type of sockets, lighting devices, switches, etc. The second type of insulation is made in the form of composite plastic and covers the outside of the wire. It can be used in a wide variety of places with temperatures ranging from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.

As for the cables marked VVGng LS, VVGng-P LS, they are, in principle, no different in their parameters. The only distinctive feature is that when heated they do not emit harmful substances.

And finally, NYM brand electrical wire. This cable has 3 layers of insulation and is manufactured according to GOST 22483. The insulation of this cable is:

• Each core is protected by its own layer.
• All cores in the bundle are re-insulated.
• After this, insulation occurs in the form of enclosing the entire structure in a PVC shell.

How to choose locations for switches and sockets

When the places where it is planned to install sockets with switches have been determined, first you should drill out the sockets with special nozzles and a drill. It is necessary to install metal boxes in these sockets, which are mounted according to the same rules as any other soldering analogues.

It is extremely important to ensure grounding during installation. If continuity of the circuit is achieved when pulling the wire, then grounding can be installed through the distribution panel.

The device for fastening metal boxes to pipes is based on welding and soldering. There are, of course, other possibilities, but in wooden buildings this method has maximum reliability:

• By soldering and welding the contacts achieve maximum strength.
• Protection from environmental influences in the form of corrosion.
• Such fastenings are able to withstand external mechanical loads.

Depending on which pipes are used, a decision is made about connecting to the box. For example, when working with copper pipes, all edges in the box are flared, but with steel analogues, the connection is made using nuts. To do this, you first need to cut a thread at the end of the pipes.

All nuts must be processed, since both the quality of installation and their further operation depend on this. When choosing boxes for installing switches with sockets, both distribution and technological, it is necessary to ensure compliance with the requirements of class IP -54. Only under this condition can one be guaranteed to obtain maximum confidence that neither moisture nor dust will penetrate the box during operation.

Last step: wiring test

When all installation work is completed, boxes and pipes are installed, the grounding device should be checked. This is necessary in order to determine how securely all elements of the common circuit are fixed.

If the check shows that all the requirements of the PUE are met absolutely precisely, you can start pulling the electrical wire.

It is extremely important to leave a tolerance when drawing electrical wiring and fixing it in boxes, since sometimes the connection system can change, and if there is no reserve length, then a section of the circuit will have to be electrified again.

If the material of the constructed building is wood, then according to the rules of the PUE it is allowed to use cables with only 3 or 5 cores. Grounding is also mandatory. If the electrical wiring network is not equipped with grounding, the object is considered unprepared for delivery.

To summarize, we can add that exactly how the entire electrical wiring path will be laid is, of course, decided by the customer. Of course, the shrinkage factors of a wooden house and the flammability of the material should be taken into account. As for the builders, in essence they don’t care; they will do what they are told to do. Only the construction customer should decide and follow the PUE or design and aesthetics, this is his right.

Video: hidden wiring in a wooden house

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Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: step-by-step instructions, PUE rules, diagrams, hidden and open electrical wiring + photos and videos

A wooden house pleases its residents with lightness and indescribable comfort. But wood, for all its advantages, is a flammable material that requires increased attention from the point of view of fire safety. But since the need to equip a house with electricity is not discussed today, before starting work, you need to carefully read the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE) and the provisions of GOSTs. There are no particular difficulties in following these rules, but you need to know about them.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Codes of rules PUE and SNiP are developed by specialists in the field of safety. This is not the whim of an office official, but a list of necessary standards, compliance with which brings the level of “carelessness” as close as possible to the desired one. We can say that life itself writes these dry chapters, behind which human tragedies are sometimes hidden.

The main cause of fires in wooden buildings is electrical short circuit.

Fire statistics, unfortunately, leave no doubt that wood construction is always on the front line of fire risk. However, if we remember that for hundreds (and maybe thousands) of years our ancestors lived in wooden log houses, there is hope that everything is possible, you just need to competently deal with the wiring. After all, it is this that in the vast majority of cases becomes the cause of fire.

The basic requirements contained in the PUE and GOSTs are as follows:

• The wiring calculation should be made with a margin of up to 30%. This concerns, first of all, the selection of the cross-sectional area of ​​the wires, since this determines the degree of heating of the insulation and the likelihood of a short circuit during operation. To cover the whole picture of electrification as a whole, it is necessary to prepare a working project with a detailed diagram and specification of electrical wiring, and upon completion of the work, undergo certification and receive a wiring passport.
• The quality of the connections should not allow the slightest possibility of electric shock to the residents of the house.
• Heating and ignition of cables is unacceptable, as this will most likely lead to the arson of the entire house. The possibility of short circuits must be completely excluded.

The PUE encourages the installation of lighting in wooden houses using 12-volt lamps and LED equipment, which is considered the safest today. For example, in mines and mines, especially in those where there are accumulations of methane gas, and an explosion can occur from a single spark, all equipment is powered by a current of 12 volts. The same thing is done in cars.

A significant obstacle that makes it difficult to independently carry out work on installing wiring in a wooden house is the lack of a single document regulating the installation. The main regulations are dispersed in the normative documents of GOST and SNiP and are not systematized. Therefore, when drawing up a project, it is better to contact a specialized organization that has a license for this type of activity.

Preparation of a power supply project

Project documentation must include all details of future wiring. It displays the location of lighting fixtures, sockets, mounting boxes, and distribution boards. The specification describes in detail the brands of conductors used for wiring, their total number and nominal characteristics. All electrical devices involved in the power supply circuit, such as an electric meter, RAM, automatic machines and others, are calculated in advance to ensure compliance with the loads expected during operation.

An electrical supply project usually includes a wiring diagram indicating the markings of the cables used, the type of devices to be installed and the calculated load on each of them

The presence of a project is a sign of a civilized and responsible approach to business.

You can, of course, route the cables without it, but:

• practice shows that installing wiring without a preliminary design usually costs 10–15% more. At the same time, errors are possible, the correction of which also costs money;
• In the event of a fire, the insurance company will require a certified home electrification plan. In its absence, damage coverage will be delayed indefinitely (until the circumstances are clarified). It's good if only one house burns down. In densely populated areas, a fire can spread to neighboring areas. The culprit will be the owner of the wooden structure from where the fire began to spread. The only way to prove your non-involvement is to present a certified plan for the electrification of the premises;
• Having a plan significantly reduces the cost of preventative and repair work on electrical wiring during further operation, and also helps to quickly find and eliminate the source of damage to the power supply.

A full-fledged project consists not only of drawings, but also of a detailed description of all elements and equipment. It usually includes:

1. A graphic representation of all levels of living space, on which, using accepted symbols, the locations of cable routes, consumers and electrical equipment are reflected.
2. Single-line electricity supply diagrams.
3. Detailed calculations of grounding loops.
4. Cross-sectional area of ​​conductors.
5. List of switching devices.
6. Maximum current and voltage of the meter.
7. Calculations of power of electrical receiving devices.

In addition, the project must provide for external lighting of the site and the connection of courtyard buildings - bathhouses, garages, utility rooms.

The electrical wiring project for a private house must contain a calculation and diagram of the installation of external lighting in the adjacent area

Project documentation is developed in several stages:

1. Formulation of the problem. Power supply is planned in accordance with the technical specifications and conditions. The customer expresses his vision to the contractor orally or using a diagram. As one of the options, a design project can serve as an order form.
2. Development and approval of the project. If necessary, the project is protected and approved by representatives of inspection organizations. The parameters of electrification and their compliance with regulatory documentation are being clarified.
3. Project implementation support. Sometimes it is also called installation supervision, during which the designer directly monitors the execution of the work.

Calculation of cable cross-section

Calculation of conductors consists of determining two parameters:

In conditions of increased fire safety requirements, the rules require the mandatory use of three-core wires. This measure is dictated by the need for protective grounding of the entire power supply system.

In private houses, wiring should be done with a three-core cable: one core is the phase wire, the second is neutral, the third is grounding

Table: selection of cable cross-section depending on current strength

Calculation of electrical installation devices

Electrical installation devices - sockets, switches and distribution boxes are selected based on the technological conditions of their operation.

Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input

Proper electrical input into the home is of great importance in ensuring the safety of electrical wiring. When choosing a cable and a circuit breaker, you should take into account that in the future the load on it will only increase - the number of household appliances and units that are used at home increases over time.

The cross-section of the input cable must be calculated for the future: over time, the number of electrical devices used and their total power consumption will only increase

The electrician's task is to choose a cable that will ensure the use of electrical devices without the risk of overvoltage of the input conductor. The optimal placement of the input circuit breaker (AB) is considered to be its location in front of the meter. Its task is to turn off the internal network in case of excessive current consumption, for example, during a short circuit. But at the same time, it should not turn off at the maximum permissible load. In order to calculate the rating of the input AV independently, use the formula Inom = P/U x cos(f), where Inom is the rated current, P is the total power of all devices, cos(f) is the power factor, which for most electrical appliances can be considered equal unit. 10% is added to the resulting rated current value and the circuit breaker is selected relative to it. Most often, in a private house, an AB with a nominal value of 25 A is sufficient.

The input circuit breaker must withstand the maximum load from all switched on electrical appliances, but open the network when too high currents occur, for example, from a short circuit

Three-phase power supply for a private house

The vast majority of wooden houses use single-phase power. But if you plan to use high-power units - for example, powerful electric welding or woodworking machines - a three-phase current supply is required. In this case, to calculate the installation devices, you need to contact a specialist. Calculations are made using more complex formulas and in relation to a specific situation.

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house

If you have an agreed project, completed in accordance with all legal standards, you can install the electrical wiring yourself. To do this, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials, as well as familiarize yourself with safety regulations. Let's consider the main stages of home electrification.

Installation of distribution board

The distribution board is the main control point for electrical energy. It is a cabinet containing devices for monitoring and metering current consumption. Can be metal or made of dielectric plastic.

The distribution panel contains control and monitoring devices for the electrical network: meters, circuit breakers, residual current devices, etc.

The shield is mounted in a place convenient for use, at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m from the floor surface. Most often, it is placed near the front door in such a way that when leaving you can turn off the electricity, and when returning you can turn it on. An input cable is connected from the power lines to the switchboard, and then the electricity is distributed throughout the house. The following is installed inside the shield:

• electricity consumption meter;
• circuit breakers on DIN rail;
• RCD (residual current device);
• buses for grounding and neutral circuit output.

An input circuit breaker can also be located here, but it is also practiced to locate it outside the house at the point where the overhead line is connected to the home network. This option is not without meaning, since the risk of excessive load on the input cable is significantly reduced.

Installation of the distribution board is done first. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of automation, using proven and reliable brands of devices from well-known manufacturers.

Video: review of a switchboard for a private home

Cable entry indoors

There are two options for introducing the cable from the power line into the house.

1. An aerial method that uses a self-supporting insulated conductor.
2. Underground method, when the cable is brought into the room from underground.

The first option is more common due to its speed and efficiency. The second one is more expensive, but has a number of advantages, such as long service life and independence from atmospheric disasters.

The underground cable entry method is more labor-intensive, but more reliable and durable

In any case, the rules require that the cable be inserted into a wooden house through a metal thick-walled (from 2.5 to 3.3 mm) pipe. Its interior must be painted or galvanized, and the installation is carried out at an angle of 3–5° to the horizontal plane so that the condensate formed can flow out freely (GOST R 50571.15–97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2).

The cable is inserted into a wooden house through a metal sleeve, which is placed at an angle to organize condensate drainage.

The installation of the metal sleeve and the cable entry are always carried out from the outside of the wall. The installer must have the appropriate qualifications and approval. Most often, this work is performed by employees of the energy supply organization.

Video: introducing cable into the house and connecting to the switchboard

Installation of switches and sockets

In wooden buildings there are certain nuances in the installation of switches and sockets.

Otherwise, the installation of sockets and switches is no different from installation in a stone building.

1. First, the wall is marked. It is best to use a building level or a laser level.
2. Next, socket boxes or protective platforms are installed.
3. The device base is mounted on them.
4. After connecting to the wires, the outer casing is attached.

All of the above applies to distribution boxes. It is recommended to design wiring in such a way as to reduce their number to a minimum.

Connecting wires

Based on the same premises of increased fire hazard, it is recommended that conductor connections in wooden buildings be made using factory terminal blocks. Twisting is allowed only in case of additional soldering of current-carrying conductors and using plastic caps.

Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks; twists can only be used as a last resort

Grounding and installation of RCDs

A residual current device (RCD) is designed to protect humans (and pets) from electric shock in the event of a possible leak on damaged insulation or the metal casing of household appliances.

In the electrical wiring diagram in a private house, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an RCD device that protects against electric shock in case of accidental leaks

The device is capable of detecting minimal leakage and responding to it by opening the circuit. The level of sensitivity depends on the brand of the device. The choice is made according to the main parameter - leakage current, which is expressed in milliamps. If the RCD is included in the whole house protection scheme, a leakage current value of 30 mA is sufficient. If the device is intended to protect individual rooms, for example, a bathroom or toilet, select a higher sensitivity of 10 mA. An RCD is installed in the distribution board. The connection diagram provides for the location of the RCD in front of the circuit breakers.

The residual current device for the general circuit of the house is selected for a leakage current of 30 mA

Video: connecting a circuit breaker and an RCD

The same tasks are assigned to grounding all electrical installations inside the house. Separately, we can say about the grounding device. In order for the stray current drainage system to work properly, you need to follow the recommendations for independently installing a grounding strip.

The grounding loop consists of three metal plates fixed to reinforcing pins

To do this, you will need three-meter-long metal fittings and three-meter sections of corners.

Do not forget about the seasonal expansion and contraction of metal under the influence of changing air temperatures.

To prevent the grounding bus from being broken, a “compensation hump” is made in it, which is designed to absorb thermal changes.

Methods for open wiring

In practice, three types of external wiring are used in wooden houses:

The choice depends entirely on the aesthetic inclinations of the residents of the house. All the necessary materials are available for sale to realize your preferences in terms of design solutions.

Video: external wiring in a cable channel in a wooden house

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house

If for some reason the customer is not satisfied with the external location of the wiring in the house, the cables are routed in a hidden way. In a wooden structure this is a rather labor-intensive and painstaking procedure. Each wire, regardless of its thickness, must be packaged in a metal pipe. Socket boxes and distribution boxes must also be made of metal. The pipes are supposed to be protected from corrosion. To do this, they must be painted from the inside with moisture-resistant enamels, and small holes must be drilled at certain intervals to drain condensate. For the same purpose, it is necessary to place the pipe at a slope so that drops of moisture can flow out. To avoid damage to the insulation, the ends of the pipes are cleaned of sharp burrs and additionally equipped with plastic tips.

To install hidden wiring in a wooden house, cables inside the walls are laid in metal pipes and brought out into niches covered with metal sockets.

The big disadvantage of hidden wiring in a wooden structure is the inaccessibility of the cables. If any problems occur, replacing the old cable with a new one will be very difficult. Nevertheless, this type of wiring has its fans. Especially among designers who are primarily concerned with the aesthetic design of the home.

Video: hidden wiring in a wooden frame

Wiring test

After completing the installation, the customer needs to invite employees of the electrical laboratory. The purpose of the test is to measure the resistance of the system as a whole, grounding resistance and check all automation: RCDs, circuit breakers, current flow meter. If all parameters comply with the standard, the customer receives a protocol signed by the responsible person. This document is presented to the service company when concluding an agreement to supply the facility with electricity.

After completion of the work, it is necessary to invite a specialist to check the system and obtain a test report for the electrical wiring.

When carrying out wiring installation activities yourself, it is important to observe personal safety measures. Electric shock can cause irreparable harm to health and cause death. Installation is carried out only when the power supply is turned off. Commissioning of equipment is carried out in the presence of an authorized representative of the design organization.

tehznatok.com

Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house. Part 2

Welcome to the website http://zametkielectrika.ru.

In the last article (part 1) I told you about the mistakes that electricians make when performing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, as well as what consequences arise from this.

Today I am writing a continuation of the article for you.

How to perform installation correctly?

I will say right away that the primary basis should be only the requirements of electrical safety and fire safety. The cost of electrical installation work and interior design take a back seat.

Laying methods

There are 2 ways to lay cables and wires in voids and ceilings made of wood, i.e. from combustible material.

1. In a metal pipe

I consider the first method to be the safest and most reliable - laying cables and wires in metal pipes or metal boxes.

But this method of laying is quite labor-intensive and labor-intensive. But we'll talk about this a little lower.

2. In a plastic PVC corrugation, box (channel) and in a metal hose

The plastic surface of corrugations and boxes refers to non-flammable materials and is designated by the index “ng”, i.e. does not spread or support combustion. Read about this in the article requirements for electrical wiring.

I told you about laying wires and cables in a metal hose, PVC corrugation and box (channel) in the first part of the article. But here I want to add the following.

Such installation is permitted under one IMPORTANT condition:

Along the entire length and on all sides, it is necessary to place fireproof material between the metal hose (PVC corrugation and box) and wooden surfaces.

Fireproof materials can be: alabaster, plaster, cement, concrete, etc.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house using metal pipes

As I said above, installing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house using metal pipes is labor-intensive and labor-intensive. And besides, such electrical installation can only be performed by trained and qualified specialists.

Where to begin?

The very first thing you need to start installation with is materials. And I advise you to use copper pipes.

Why copper pipes?

Yes, because copper pipes are easily subject to deformation (easily bent). Therefore, when using copper pipes, you don’t have to purchase additional professional tools.

I would like to tell you a few more words that the installation of hidden electrical wiring should be carried out in such a way as to ensure the replacement of wires and cables. What cannot be said about metal boxes, because... When pulling wires and cables, in this case we will damage their insulation due to sharp corners.

1. Route markings

If you have a project, then this is the task of the designers. But if you carry out the installation yourself (independently), then the marking of the electrical wiring route must be chosen the most optimal, i.e. with minimal damage to wooden surfaces, because Gouging and drilling in wooden structures weakens them.

2. Installation of distribution boxes

Here I want to say that distribution boxes need to be installed only metal ones and in accessible places for inspection and further maintenance and operation.

It is prohibited to hide or hide distribution boxes.

3. Metal pipe diameter

Also an important point.

How to choose the correct diameter of a metal pipe?

The diameter of the metal pipe is selected very simply. It is necessary that the wires and cables enter the pipe freely, while filling 40% of the pipe cross-section.

How to choose the wall thickness of a metal pipe?

The wall thickness of a metal pipe for hidden electrical wiring is selected based on the cross-section of the wire or cable cores laid in this pipe.

In order not to burden you with unnecessary numbers, I will present the data in the form of a table.

4. Installation of mounting boxes (socket boxes)

To choose the right location for socket boxes, read the article Installing sockets and switches.

It is necessary to use only metal mounting boxes for sockets and switches, which we attach to an already connected metal pipe.

If you used steel pipes, then connect the pipe and the mounting box using a nut. You can also use welding for connection, which in my opinion is a more reliable connection. The distribution boxes are attached in the same way.

It looks like this.

If you used copper pipes during installation, then the end of the copper pipe is flared in the installation box.

5. Grounding metal pipes

Installation of a metal pipe must be carried out without breaking the pipe in distribution and installation boxes. In this case, the PE grounding conductor is connected to a pipe in the ASU panel.

If the pipe has breaks, then at the place of the break you need to ensure that the pipe is connected to the PE grounding conductor.

6. Electrical measurements

The next point of installation is electrical measurements. It is necessary to measure the presence of a circuit between grounding conductors and grounded installations and elements of a grounded installation, i.e. metal communication

I'll tell you how to do this next time. Subscribe to site news.

This measurement gives us a guarantee that all metal distribution and installation boxes are continuous and connected to a common PE bus in the ASU of the house.

7. Laying wires and cables

Electrical wiring is carried out using three-core or five-core wires, i.e. according to the TN-C-S or TN-S system. You can choose the brand of wires and cables according to my recommendations. Follow the link and study the material.

For information - PUNP wire is prohibited for use.

Plastic bushings are placed on the ends of metal pipes to prevent damage to wires and cables during installation.

Then “steel” is pulled into the metal pipe, with the help of which wires and cables are subsequently pulled to the wiring boxes.

Upon completion of work on laying wires and cables for hidden electrical wiring in metal pipes, it is necessary to measure the insulation resistance to ensure that the insulation was not damaged during installation.

8. Connection

The last stage of installing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment.

9. Completion of work

After completing the installation, you need to contact the employees of the electrical engineering laboratory, who will carry out the following acceptance measurements and tests:

After all the measurements, the electrical laboratory specialists will write a conclusion about the condition and serviceability of your newly installed hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house.

In the next article, read about exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house.

P.S. This is where I end the article. I think I have demonstrated to you in detail and clearly how to carry out installation correctly. Ask your questions in the comments.

zametkielectrika.ru

Wooden houses are a very ancient tradition of Russian architecture. Even in our time, when there is no shortage of modern building materials, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build housing from wood - no one can even come close to it in terms of natural warmth and the special comfort it creates.

And ordinary city dwellers - owners of small dachas - most often choose wood as the main material for construction. But both permanent and temporary housing in modern conditions cannot do without power supply. In both cases, it is extremely necessary to know how to do the wiring in a wooden house correctly, so as not to endanger your health and even life, and to ensure the safety of your home and property.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

First of all, it is necessary to warn home craftsmen who believe that if they can repair a socket or switch in an apartment and know how to distinguish zero from phase using a conventional indicator, then they can safely undertake independent installation of electrical wiring in a country wooden house. Not everything is so simple - a wooden structure is characterized by an increased fire hazard, and the requirements for laying power lines here are completely different.

Poor electrical wiring is the most common cause of fires.

Gloomy statistics show that the overwhelming number of fires that occur in wooden buildings are directly related to violations of the installation and operation of electrical appliances or wiring. By and large, you should not undertake the task of laying electrical lines yourself - this is the lot of qualified specialists. However, any owner of a wooden home needs to know the basic rules, although would in order to evaluate existing cable connections or monitor the work of called electricians, since it is quite possible to run into “hack workers” who perform the work according to the principle “no big deal, it’ll do.”

So, what are the basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden structure:

• The possibility of a cable fire with the transfer of an open flame to the wooden structure of the building in the event of a short circuit must be completely eliminated or minimized to the limit.
• The physical, technical and operational characteristics of the wires and electrical fittings used must sufficiently correspond to the total power consumption at each specific wiring section, taking into account peak loads. Any manifestations of heating of cables or terminal connections are unacceptable.
• The condition of the wiring must completely eliminate the risk of electric shock to people or pets.

The problem of aesthetics in a wooden building should fade into the background. There are many acceptable ways to solve this issue (this will be discussed below). But you should never improve the interior design of premises at the expense of even a slight reduction in the level of security - this is fraught with catastrophic consequences.

The difficulty of independent work on laying in a wooden house is also that there is no single regulatory document. Experienced craftsmen with extensive work experience know the basic requirements for it and technological techniques for their implementation. It is not so easy to select the necessary information yourself, scattered among SNiPs, GOSTs and PUE (rules for electrical installations), and it is often too specialized in nature, understandable only to a person with a specialized education.

The main objective of this publication is to give owners of wooden houses a basic understanding of how to install electrical wiring. It should not be considered as an instruction on how to make wiring in a wooden house, addressed to an unprepared person for completely independent electrical work.

Electrical line entry into the house

This — very responsible area, which for some reason owners often forget about, focusing specifically on the internal wiring. The principle probably works - it has been standing for a long time and is completely justified. Meanwhile, the introduction of power cables into the house could have been carried out a very long time ago, using old technologies that no longer meet modern requirements. The equipment of houses with electrical appliances has literally increased several times; accordingly, energy consumption has also increased. And the cable part itself can become hopelessly outdated - the insulation breaks under many years of exposure to the sun and temperature changes, exposing the metal cores and reducing the safety of the wiring.

This type of cable entry through a wooden wall is a “time bomb”

A particularly vulnerable area is the passage of the cable through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time it was believed that cutting a rubber hose was enough for safety. However, such a unit is fraught with a considerable threat - the rubber contains a considerable percentage of soot, which itself is carbon, i.e. conductive material. As such an “insulator” ages, electrical conductivity bridges with a fairly high resistivity appear. Areas of local heating and sparking may occur, and for dry roof gable boards this may be quite sufficient.

In a word, if the goal is to completely update the wiring and bring it to a truly safe state, then you need to start from here.

There are two ways to bring a power line into a house - overhead and underground.

• The underground method is considered more reliable, since the cable is completely hidden and not subject to external influences. At the same time, this is a rather expensive method that will require significant excavation work. The cable must be located at a depth of at least 0.8 m, the security zone must be marked with signs. Passage through the foundation and entry into the house is carried out with the mandatory installation of metal sleeves made of thick-walled pipes.

As a rule, it makes sense to organize such a connection only when thinking through the passage of communications in advance. If the power line is laid in an already rebuilt house, then it is easier and cheaper to use overhead wiring.

• It is strictly prohibited to carry out any independent electrical work on power line poles - only a highly qualified electrician with the appropriate permit has the right to do this.

An approximate diagram of the required placement of overhead wiring from power lines to the house is shown in the figure.

The section of the line from the pole to the house is usually made of wire with a cross-section of at least 16 mm. Basically, a SIP type cable (self-supporting insulated wire) is used, which has a high-strength sheath made of cross-linked polyethylene, resistant to infrared radiation and thermal shocks. The service life of such a wire should be at least 25 years.

However, this line never runs inside the house. According to existing rules, laying cables with aluminum current-carrying parts over combustible structural elements is strictly prohibited. And since we are talking about a wooden house, then starting from the entrance and to to The last socket or light bulb uses exclusively copper conductors.

For the section from the line connection to the input switchgear, it is recommended to use VVGng cable. The additional index “ng” indicates the non-flammability of its insulating coating. This cable fully meets the requirements for fixed wiring both indoors and outdoors. However, for greater reliability, it is also recommended to enclose it in a corrugated polymer pipe, which has the appropriate certification according to the current fire safety rules NPB 246-97. The plastic from which the “corrugation” is made is a self-extinguishing, non-combustible material.

Always carried out outside the building. Currently, special sealed clamps are most often used for this, ensuring reliable contact without the possibility of oxidation and sparking.

The areas where VVGng passes through the walls of the house and attic or interfloor ceilings are necessarily enclosed in a metal sleeve made from a thick-walled pipe. This precaution has several purposes:

• The cable part will be protected from damage that may be caused by displacements of building structures, for example, due to shrinkage of the house or ground vibrations.
• The metal sheath will prevent the spread of fire to wooden structures to the maximum extent in the event of an emergency - overheating or fire of the cable.
• The cable in vulnerable places hidden from view receives protection from domestic rodents.

Pipe wall thickness is a regulated value. So, if a wire with a cross-section of up to 4 mm² is used, it should be 2.8 mm, and when using more powerful cables - from 6 to 10 mm² - even 3.2 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of burning through the pipe wall if a short circuit occurs inside it.

The same rule applies to all areas of intra-house wiring in a wooden building, without any exception.

The next important section is from the entrance to the house to the switchboard (according to the accepted terminology, the input switchgear - VUR). What is special about this section is that it remains unprotected by automation from overloads or short circuits and, as a rule, is not in plain sight, often passing through the attic or utility rooms. You should not rely on the automation of an electrical substation - there are completely different response levels.

There are several ways to radically solve this problem:

• The entire section of the cable to the ASU can be enclosed in a metal pipe with the same parameters mentioned above. However, this becomes possible only if its length is small - up to 2.5 - 3 meters and the absence of a large number of turns. Push a fairly rigid cable over significant distances in the clearance T t of rubles will be simply impossible.
• It seems optimal to install a circuit breaker in a sealed box immediately before the line enters the building. In this case, its response threshold is selected one step higher than that of the main AZ, which is installed on the ASU. So, if a 25 A circuit breaker is installed on the panel, then 32 A should be installed on the outside one.

This will protect the vulnerable area from overload, but at the same time, if such a situation occurs in the internal house wiring, the automatic switch on the ASU will work, and there will be no need to get to the external AZ.

• There is another option, when electricity supply organizations place both the machine and energy consumption meters on the outer wall of the building or even on power line poles. This is, of course, reliable, but not always convenient for the owners of the house.

Installation of distribution panel

The line from the entrance to the house directly, without any branches, leads to the distribution panel - ASU. What are its main components:

• A metal or plastic box with places to place an electric meter and additional protection devices, a DIN rail for the AZ, busbars - neutral and ground loops. The dimensions of the box are not regulated, so it is better not to save in this case, and install it with the expectation of a further possible “upgrade” - retrofitting, the need for which may arise as the expansion progresses electrical equipment Houses.
• Sealed electricity consumption meter.
• The main input circuit breaker, two-pole or three-pole, which is usually also sealed by the power supply organization.
• Single-pole AZ mounted on DIN rail. Their number may vary. Typically, the electrical network of a house is divided into zones - each their They will correspond to their own machine of a certain power. Thus, a kitchen and one or several rooms are separated into separate zones, which can also be divided into lighting and a socket group. Often a separate zone is used for lighting the yard, power supply for the garage and outbuildings, and external sockets that are used for household work on the territory.

The power of the machines is calculated for each zone individually. They are guided by the rule that it should ensure operation in case of overload at the weakest section of the local electrical wiring. The lower the rating, the higher the safety of operating electrical appliances. So, if ordinary sockets have a permissible limit of 16 A, then the AZ should not exceed this value.

• RCD is a device for protective shutdown of power supply when a leakage current is detected. Due to the considerable cost of such a device, many simply neglect it. However, although it is not mandatory, it is still better not to skimp, purchase and include it in the general power supply system. The RCD will reliably protect residents from electric shock when using electrical appliances and will prevent emergency situations in the network. It is of particular importance in areas with high humidity - kitchens, bathrooms, bathhouses, boiler rooms, external fittings in courtyards, garages, etc. The selection of the RCD rating and its installation must be carried out by a qualified electrician, since several parameters are taken into account here - the total load of the area (maximum current) and leakage current.

An RCD can be installed on the entire intra-house network, but in this case there is a high probability of frequent false alarms, and in addition, it will be very difficult to identify the source of a potential security threat. A more convenient, but, however, more expensive way becomes installation RCD also has zoning, similar to AZ.

Video: example of installing an RCD

All hardware of the switchboard must be exclusively from trusted manufacturers and have appropriate certificates of conformity. It is important to remember that in many ways they are responsible for the safety of the owners and the safety of the building.

Prices for residual current devices (RCDs)

Residual current devices (RCDs)

How to make wiring in a wooden house - from the panel to the points of consumption

Now about one of the main points of wiring in a wooden house - the areas from the distribution board to the connection points for electrical appliances.

First of all, a few words about . Twisting must be avoided, even when using thick copper wires of the same cross-section. It is allowed to solder the wires and then cover the exposed part with plastic caps. The optimal solution would be to use special spring or screw terminal connections (for example, WAGO terminals). This is not so expensive, but will provide both reliable contact and the required protection against short circuits. In addition, such connections are easy to control and, if necessary, replace.

The optimal solution for a wooden house is an open arrangement of wiring on the walls. There are possibilities to place it hidden, but this will require large-scale and expensive work.

Methods for open wiring

• For a long time, it has been common practice to place internal wiring cables along wooden structural elements on insulating rollers, providing a safe gap of 10 mm from the wall.

In some old houses, such wiring has been preserved to this day.

There are numerous fans of this retro style...

By the way, this fastening method has begun to come back into fashion - many owners prefer this retro wiring. For this purpose, special twisted cables of various colors are even produced.

...and you can even purchase special wiring

Video: retro wiring on wooden walls

However, such approaches should be taken seriously d It’s hardly appropriate to organize all the internal wiring. The number of electrical appliances and, accordingly, points of consumption in the average home has increased significantly, and laying many lines from the distribution board on rollers on top of the wall will look simply ridiculous.

• Single cables with a cross-section of less than 6 mm² can be placed directly on the wall surface, fixing them with electrical clips appropriate size. The main condition for this is the presence of double (or even better, triple) cable insulation. For such purposes, the already mentioned wires of the VVGng or NIM brand are suitable. If wires in conventional insulation are used, then a fireproof gasket (asbestos or metal) will be required, protruding from both sides of the cable by at least 10 mm, and this is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room.
• Electrical wiring can be placed in a polymer electrical pipe. The advantage of this approach is that several wires can be placed in one pipe. This will already look somewhat better than single cables, but still the aesthetics in this case are “lame” - the corrugation is not easy to place perfectly evenly, even with the use of clips. But the wires receive additional protection from external damage and the required gap from the wall is created.

For inconspicuous areas of wiring, for example, in utility or technical rooms, this method is probably optimal. However, it also has a drawback - if it is necessary to replace one cable, you will have to remove the corrugated lining from the entire bundle of wires.

Find out several available methods from our new article.

A sleeve made of a metal pipe where the wires pass through the ceiling

• Polymers are becoming increasingly popular cable channels closed with a removable lid. They are produced in various sizes, that is, it is possible to select them for a single wire or for several parallel lines. They are made of non-flammable plastic, which increases the safety of the wiring.

Such boxes can be selected according to the most suitable color - they are not only white, but also tinted or having a decorative wood-like coating that will go well with the wall material.

A special advantage of such channels is the ease of maintenance or installation work with the cable part - you can always remove the cover to replace the problematic cable or add a new connection.

Considering that there are now many additional accessories for such cable channels– turns, external and internal corner elements, tees, plugs, etc., owners can use them to solve the problem of the required decorative wiring.

Video: open wiring in a wooden house using cable channels

• Another type of similar cable channels are systems of electrical skirting boards. They are also equipped with all the necessary elements for straight sections, turns, corners, climbs to sockets and switches, and junction boxes. This allows you to maintain the overall design style of the room, despite the fact that the wiring will essentially be considered open.

Important note - installation cable channels should be carried out only after the initial shrinkage of the house and provided that the wood of the walls is well dried. Otherwise, even minor changes in the “geometry” of the room can cause deformation and even destruction of the boxes.

• They also resort to placing open wiring in pipes, metal or polymer. Such a technology cannot be called convenient - each straight section is threaded separately, then a transition or rotary coupling is installed, and so on. Of course, the need to replace the cable part will also cause a lot of difficulties. This approach is more of a fashion statement, but not the optimal solution for outdoor wiring.

Sockets and switches installed with open wiring must have a fireproof gasket on the bottom. It’s good if this is provided for by their design itself. If not, you will have to cut out platforms from asbestos or metal.

You should immediately calculate the required number of sockets in a particular place in the room. The use of tees or extension cords during the operation of electrical appliances should be reduced to a minimum, or even better, completely eliminated.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

If the homeowners still prefer to completely hide the wiring, then they will be faced with very large-scale work.

• To ensure complete fire safety, all wires must be replaced with a fireproof sheath, which can only be steel or copper pipe. The internal cavity of a steel pipe must be either painted or galvanized to prevent corrosion of the walls.

• All transitions and turns are made using threaded elements or welding (soldering).
• The horizontal sections of the pipes must have a slight slope so that the condensate formed in the cavity has an outlet to the outside. Special openings are also provided in places where moisture accumulation is most likely.

• Only metal socket boxes are installed in the holes cut out for hidden placement of sockets and switches, which must be connected to the ground loop.

• All branches are carried out only in distribution boxes, which must also be tightly connected to the pipes.
• The entire pipe circuit must be grounded. to remove possible static voltage from it and prevent electric shock in the event of a possible breakdown of the cable insulation.

• To prevent contact of the wire insulation with the sharp edges of the pipe, a centering plastic plug must be installed at the outlet.

Video: placing hidden wiring in metal pipes

Hidden wiring is also allowed in one more way - by marking a plaster layer with a thickness of at least 10 mm. However, this is not used often, if only for the reasons that covering natural wood with plaster is probably not the best option.

If you look at photographs or videos posted on the Internet, you can see a lot of examples where hidden wiring is placed in metal or plastic, or bundles of wires are simply laid in grooves made in wood. What no matter what “authoritative” experts write, convincing that such a method is completely safe, this is a gross violation of existing requirements. It’s hardly worth planting such a “time bomb” in your wooden house - the stakes are too high!

The article mentioned the ground loop more than once. However, this issue is so unique and important that it deserves a completely separate detailed publication, which will certainly find its place on the pages of our portal.

Wood is considered an environmentally friendly material for the construction of residential buildings, so it is not surprising that the demand for beautiful and comfortable houses made of timber or rounded logs is not decreasing. First of all, a residential building must be safe from an electrical installation point of view.

It is important to understand how to install electrical wiring in a wooden house so as not to harm the health of residents and ensure the safety of property. In the article we have presented in detail all aspects of this issue.

The presented materials present general requirements for wiring, methods for installing an electrical network in a house, rules for arranging an electrical panel and methods for installing cables. All electrical installation work must be carried out in strict accordance with the fire safety standards that we specified in the article.

The main difference between wooden houses and reinforced concrete and brick structures is their high degree of fire hazard. This means that increased requirements apply to the selection of electrical devices, cables and the conditions for their installation.

According to statistics, about 1/2 of fires or ignitions in wooden houses or in houses with wooden trim occur due to gross errors by electricians.

If you install the socket incorrectly, do not connect the wires in the junction box carefully enough, or ignore the grounding rules, a fire may occur, followed by a fire.

Undemanding owners of a wooden house entrust electrical installation work to neighbors, acquaintances, or do it themselves, without thoroughly knowing the PUE standards. The sad result of gullibility and unprofessionalism - in the photo

It is necessary to know the basic rules of electrical installation for two reasons: to be able to carry out some of the installation or repair work yourself and to control the actions of unscrupulous “specialists”.

The following requirements should be remembered:

• The technical characteristics of cables and electrical equipment must correspond as closely as possible to the power consumption of the devices of each individual group.
• The operation of sockets, switches, and emergency shutdown devices must be carried out taking into account the load placed on them.
• It is prohibited to use cables, wires, and terminal connections when they are regularly heated.
• It is necessary to completely prevent the transfer of fire from the cable to structures made of wood or other flammable materials using fireproof protection.

Electrical wiring must be completely safe for home owners, their families (especially small children) and pets.

Strict requirements come to the fore, and sometimes aesthetics have to be sacrificed. For example, owners of a wooden cottage need to come to terms with external sockets and enhanced protection for both hidden and open electrical wiring (NPB 246-97)

Material from video reviews and instructions posted on the Internet is very contradictory, so you should not rely entirely on the opinion of people in work overalls. You should focus on excerpts from regulatory documentation - sections of PUE, SNiPs, GOSTs.

Entering the power line into the house

In Russia and some other countries (unlike, for example, Europe, where the wires are hidden in the ground), electricity reaches consumers through overhead power lines - to the final support.

• via self-supporting insulated wire (SIP);
• underground;
• by cable (used extremely rarely).

The first option is the most popular.

Electricity metering devices are also installed along with the machine. Special shields (SHUE) are designed specifically for this. According to the rules, the control panel can be installed inside the building, then the wiring diagram will change slightly.

From the central power supply line to a support on a private property or directly to the house, a self-supporting insulated wire (with a cross-section of at least 16 mm) is pulled, which is secured with anchors or clamps. Height from the ground to the tensioned wire 2.75 m or more

To insulate wires running along a wooden surface, use fireproof boxes or. The transition through walls and ceilings is carried out in protective sleeves made of metal; plastic analogues are unacceptable.

SIPs are not installed inside the house. According to the standards, only copper wires can be laid inside and on top of combustible structures, therefore, aluminum analogues will also have to be excluded.

Rules for open wiring

Methods for open laying of wires should not contradict the requirements of the PUE.

Therefore, the following products can be used to attach cables to the wooden surface of walls, partitions or ceilings:

• ceramic or porcelain insulators;
• floor plinths with built-in cable duct;
• corrugated and rigid PVC pipes;
• PVC boxes;
• metal boxes and pipes.

Specific names of products are indicated in the design documentation, and in relation to wooden structures they must be accompanied by a fire safety certificate and be marked “NG” as non-flammable.

The installation of cable channels and other installation elements must be thought out in advance, since protruding parts may interfere with the arrangement of furniture or solving other interior issues

Closed wiring methods

The main difference between hidden wiring is the limitation on the use of installation methods. According to the PUE standards, it is strictly prohibited to use metal sleeves, plastic boxes and PVC corrugation for hidden wiring. All products must have localization ability.

There are several reasons for this:

• PVC products do not protect wires from rodents;
• even the slightest damage to the insulation during installation work in the future, with increasing load, can provoke burnout of the plastic and ignition;
• The metal hose is a spiral-shaped product that does not have localization characteristics, which means that even wood dust can easily penetrate inside the protection.

Fire and electrical safety rules state that only two types of products can be used for hidden wiring - a metal pipe and a box made of a similar material, specifically designed for these purposes.

On the inside, metal elements must be galvanized or painted so that they do not become corroded during operation.

For a strong connection, a socket or similar method is not enough, so soldering, electric welding, coupling and threaded connections are used.

An option for hidden wiring in metal pipes - in the future the ceiling will be covered with a suspended structure. This solution is suitable for laying cables in wooden floors, inside walls and partitions

The use of metal hoses, corrugations and boxes made of PVC is also permissible, but subject to the installation of a lining made of non-combustible material: concrete, alabaster, plaster.

The main stages of laying closed electrical wiring:

1. Route markings. It is necessary to calculate the stretch of lines so that the number of turns and intersections is minimal.
2. Preparation of walls and ceilings. It includes hollowing out grooves and drilling holes.
3. Laying metal pipes. The size of the product is selected so that the cable occupies no more than half of the internal space.
4. Installation of metal boxes for switches and sockets. Copper pipes are attached to the boxes with flaring, steel pipes with nuts.
5. Installation of junction boxes. Ideally, they should be connected to the pipes by welding or soldering to ensure 100% grounding.
6. Electrical measurements. All metal elements of the installations must be connected to the PE bus (all lines, without exception, must have a grounding conductor).
7. Pulling cables into pipes. To place wires inside metal pipes, special pulling cables are used.
8. Installation of sockets and switches. When cutting the cable, it is necessary to make a small supply of wires in case of repair or replacement of equipment.

After the installation of hidden wiring is completed, it is necessary to contact representatives of the electrical laboratory. Many people forget that a technical report on the condition of the wiring and the quality of installation is a mandatory document.

Work related to electricity requires attention, compliance with rules and accuracy. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house requires even more attention: the material is very fire hazardous. Therefore, when planning and installation, pay attention to the requirements and recommendations of regulatory documents. If you do not have enough experience, it is very advisable to invite a competent electrician for a consultation before connecting, and even better before starting installation. He will be able to point out shortcomings and miscalculations to you.

House wiring diagram

According to current standards, when connecting electricity without a transformer, the power consumption for a private home should not exceed 15 kW. It is found by adding up the power of all electrical appliances that can be turned on at the same time. If the found figure is less than 15 kW, the input circuit breaker is set to 50 A. If the power is greater, another transformer is needed. Its parameters will be indicated to you in the project, since in this case you cannot do without it.

Where to install the input panel, requirements for the housing

Recently, representatives of energy supply organizations have been demanding that meters (and input machines, respectively) be installed on the street. This is done so that it is possible to control consumption even if the owners are not at home. But this requirement is not supported by anything, and, if you wish, you can install everything inside the house. But more often, in order not to argue with the inspectors, the requirements are fulfilled, and a machine and a meter are installed on the street.

For outdoor installation, the circuit breaker (AZ) and the meter must be in a sealed housing, protected from dust, dirt and moisture. The protection class for installation must be at least IP-55. To make it easier to monitor readings, there should be a window in the door of the electric meter box. For installation inside a wooden house, the requirements are somewhat lower: IP-44, but the housing must be metal.

Organization of entrance to the house

After the introductory circuit breaker, an electric meter is installed, then another RCD is installed - for an emergency shutdown of the power supply in the presence of a short circuit, and then the cable is connected to the electrical panel inside the house. inside the house should be one step lower than that installed outside. In this case, if there are problems, the machine in the house will work first and you will not have to climb the wall to the input machine installed there every time.

Single-pole circuit breakers are installed in the panel, to which wires are connected, diverging throughout the premises. They are mounted on DIN rails, their number depends on how many separate “branches” of power supply are required. To find out how many machines should be in your dashboard, count the number of required groups, adding two or three free machines “for development”. These will be the “branches”. Based on the quantity received, select the electrical panel according to its size.

We divide consumers into groups

When planning the electrical wiring diagram in a wooden house, all connection points are divided into separate groups (they are often called consumption groups). For example, all sockets on the ground floor are powered from one machine, a separate device is installed on the lighting fixtures in the house, and another one is installed on the street lighting. If some powerful electrical equipment will be used - a boiler, electric boiler, electric stove, etc. — it is advisable for them to conduct separate power supply branches and install personal automatic machines. Separate protection devices are also installed for power supply to outbuildings (if you do not want to draw separate inputs to them and install a separate meter, but only on the condition that the power of all electrical appliances does not exceed 15 kW).

From a safety point of view, it is better to make as many separate power branches as possible. This will increase the number of machines and increase the cost of the project, but will reduce the number of potentially dangerous connection points. It is in the places where conductors tap out that problems most often arise: the contacts oxidize, heat up, and then begin to spark. Therefore, it is better to make the number of connections as small as possible.

And, at the last stage, it is advisable to draw a diagram of the electrical distribution throughout the premises on the house plan. In this case, it is easier to draw consumer groups in different colors. This way you can more fully imagine what the electrical wiring diagram in a wooden house will look like, and it will be easier to do it yourself. For example, everything may look like the photo below.

Types of electrical wiring in a wooden house

After installing the panel and installing all the necessary machines, you can begin wiring electrical cables in the house. There are three ways to lay an electrical cable in a wooden house:

Features of closed wiring in a wooden house

As you understand, closed wiring can be done at the stage of construction or major repairs. Moreover, there are special features when laying it: all connections must be mounted in special metal boxes, to which there must be free access. They cannot be hidden under the trim, so their lids are matched to the color and/or they are tried to be placed in places that do not attract attention.

If hidden wiring in a wooden house is carried out not with a cable, but with insulated wires, the wall thickness of the metal pipes is regulated:

• for copper wire with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm 2 the wall thickness can be any;
• with a cross section of up to 4 mm 2, the thickness of the metal wall must be at least 2.8 mm;
• if the conductors have a cross-section from 4.5 to 10 mm 2 the pipe must have a wall of at least 3.2 mm;
• with a cross section from 10.2 to 16 mm 2 the wall should be no thinner than 3.5 mm.

When laying electrical cables, there are no requirements for the thickness of the walls of a metal pipe, therefore it is permissible to lay the cables (they have double and triple insulation) in a metal corrugation or, as they also say, in a metal hose. It's much more convenient and faster.

Laying the cable in a corrugated metal hose (metal hose) is much more convenient and requires less time and money

But in any case, since the wires will be hidden, access to them is extremely limited. Making changes to an existing network is troublesome and expensive. Therefore, before you begin installing closed electrical wiring in a wooden house, carefully check the diagram and do everything very carefully and scrupulously.

Rules for installing electrical wiring cable channels

When installing open electrical wiring or laying it in cable ducts, there are also rules. They relate to what distance from the floor, ceiling, corners and other structures they can be placed. All these standards are shown in the photo for greater clarity.

Selecting the cable cross-section and connecting it

The cross-section of the cable cores is selected depending on the planned load (in kW) and the core material. It is not at all necessary to do all the wiring with a cable with the same core. You can save money without compromising safety. To do this, a cross-section is selected for each section depending on the power of the devices that will be connected here. Their power consumption is summed up, about 20% of the reserve is added, and the cross section is selected based on this value in the table.

To connect the power supply in a wooden house, fire safety requirements are also added. The main thing is that the wire sheath must be non-flammable. Such wires have the letters “ng” in their names. To ensure the required degree of protection, double () or triple (NYM) insulation of cables is also necessary.

To ensure that electrical wiring in a wooden house is done correctly with your own hands, it is best to use cables with multi-colored cores. Then you will definitely not confuse zero with phase or ground. Typically the colors are distributed like this:

If you buy a cable made in Europe, the colors are different:

• “earth” - yellow-green;
• "zero" - white;
• "phase" - red.

Selection of sockets and switches

To ensure fire safety, sockets and switches with a metal mounting plate must be installed in a wooden house. First, it is mounted on the wall, then the external panel is installed. The use of plastic plates is permitted, but the plastic must be non-flammable and have an appropriate fire safety certificate.

Moreover, to safely connect most modern equipment, three-wire sockets with a grounding wire are required. It is also required when connecting lighting, but this is often not done indoors. But for outdoor lighting, grounding is necessary: ​​here the operating conditions are much more complicated.

DIY electrical wiring in a wooden house: installation rules

In a wooden house, you must always remember that the material is flammable and in this case it is better to play it safe. Electrical wiring in a wooden house is done with your own hands in compliance with the basic rules:

• First, the entire circuit is assembled and the functionality of each branch is checked (). We check each of the power supply lines for the absence of a short circuit to ground. Only then are the wires connected to the machine. We recommend that you immediately sign what is connected. Then it's easier to find faults. Having connected one line, turn on the power supply and connect the load. If there are no problems, great - you can continue. Turn off the machines (which goes to the already tested line and the input line), work with the next line. After all lines have been checked and connected (signed), the input machine is turned on. Then, gradually, one by one, the lines are turned on.
• Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is carried out only in whole pieces of cable without connections or twists.
• The wiring is done in stages. After laying a piece of cable, be sure to check the integrity of the insulation of the laid piece of cable. To do this, the conductors and insulation are “ringed” relative to the ground and conductors.
• When cutting the cable, leave a margin of length - at least 15-20 cm. If the connection is incorrect, it will be possible to reconnect without over-tightening the cables.
• Be sure to follow the colors of the wires.

Subject to these rules, electrical wiring in a wooden house, made independently, will be safe and reliable.