Wiring electricity in the attic of the house. Attic lighting - features Types of lighting fixtures for the attic

Earlier we already started to make partitions, the beginning. Since the time for finishing the house is formed in this way: in the summer we do exterior decoration and yard work, and in the winter - inside, in accordance with these motives, and even with the arrival of funds for it, I began work further. More precisely, he continued the installation of electrical wiring ...

And I immediately ran into the fact that it is not quite easy to conduct wires inside plasterboard walls in the corrugation, not all profiles have special holes for wiring, and their sizes are limited, and the locations are inconvenient, so you need to punch holes yourself in the right places, in addition , as a reinsurer, I was very worried that the corrugation slides along the torn edges of the holes in the profiles, in order to avoid accidental damage to the corrugation and cable, each pass in the profile was made through a rubber hose ...

To begin with, I pulled all the wires to the location of the future location of the switchboard, I used a 10-amp machine from the main shield, a wire stretched from it to the 2nd floor, more than enough for LED lighting ...

For the first time, I managed with 3 machine guns of 6 amperes each ...

In the future, Uzo will be added to the bathroom, even though it is a "wet room", on a group of sockets, one of which also exists in the bathroom, a DIF machine is mounted, we will also add an RCD to the lighting group.

Bathroom from the inside, ventilation duct, penetrations of ventilation pipes and sewerage are visible, 3 ventilation pipe (corrugation) is still muffled with a plastic bag. As it should be in "wet" rooms, we sew it up with moisture-resistant drywall ...

The attic is a non-standard room that can be decorated in a completely different way than other rooms in the house. Its advantage is the natural light coming through the roof window.

However, not all attic rooms have the opportunity to install a window, and it is not always comfortable to depend on the whims of the weather. Therefore, it is better to take care of a sufficient amount of light in the dark and on cloudy days. To do this, you need to successfully place lamps, lamps or a chandelier in the most suitable places in the attic.

How to determine the optimal types of lighting and their best location, we will tell in this article.

Types of lighting fixtures for the attic

The attic room can be filled with light using one or more sources. General lighting is provided by a chandelier with several light bulbs. Local lighting fixtures are especially popular when illuminating such premises. They are of several types.

1. Sconces, wall lamps, portable lamps.
2. Spots for ceiling and walls. These are directional lighting fixtures that are located on the bracket. They can be rotated in different directions and brightness can be adjusted.
3. Floor lamps. Their ideal place is by a chair or sofa.
4. Point light sources: they are used both independently and as additional lighting. Indispensable for a small area of ​​​​space. Are established in plasterboard and stretch ceilings.
5. Crystal diffusers. They favorably emphasize the elements of decor. The different sizes of the refracted elements of the lamp creates the effect of crystal reflections.
6. Attic LED lighting. With its help, you can organize the lighting of mirrors, shelves, beds, ceiling perimeter. It is a special tape, which can be one-color or multi-color.
7. fiber optic threads. They consist of a stationary source of accumulation and lighting fibers. With their help, you can decorate the starry sky and other design solutions.
8. Fluorescent lamps. They are installed in a suspended or plasterboard ceiling and create the effect of scattering light rays along the perimeter of the ceiling. This is an option that saves electricity.

It is possible to combine several local lighting devices with the main light source. For example, installing a chandelier in the attic in the center, and spotlights around the perimeter of the ceiling will make the room evenly lit throughout the area.

How to choose a lighting device for the attic

1. To make the room on the attic floor seem bright and spacious, even if it really is not, you need to pay attention not only to natural and artificial lighting, but also to the decoration of furniture and walls.
2. Here are a few ways to organize attic lighting that will make the top floor more comfortable:

• you can install spots or sconces and direct the light flux to the wall;
• spotlights installed around the perimeter of the room can visually increase the height of the walls, and the lighting near the mirror also further expands the boundaries of the room;
• light sources can be evenly placed inside the room so that it is light in all places of the room, but if the attic is divided into zones, then their lighting should be appropriate;
• the working area needs bright light, which falls from the general and local levels, and the space around the bed is often decorated with subdued lighting;
• if your house is hidden under a gable roof, then it is better not to use a chandelier for the attic, so it will not be possible to focus on the narrowed space, it is preferable to use a floor lamp by the chair and a bedside lighting fixture;
• if the ceiling has a multi-level structure, then a combination of spotlights and LED or neon lighting will fit perfectly;
• on both sides of a mirror or picture, you can hang the same wall lights.

Light design of the attic with a sloping ceiling

1. Lighting with point sources is suitable for an attic room with sloping ceilings. In conditions of limited space, it is better not to use general lighting concentrated in the center of the ceiling, as it further narrows the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic room.
2. Ordinary lamps are large, while diode light sources do not take up much space. They illuminate the room quite well in places where it is needed.
3. Lighting devices are often installed on inclined surfaces of the attic. In this case, the play of light will make the space of the room bright and harmonious.

Attic lighting for different styles

Attic lighting will help enhance the atmosphere of the overall style of the room. The play of light with the help of refraction of rays can be created using mirrors, glass and other reflective surfaces. Chandelier bottles, floor lamps and lamps should be chosen in accordance with the color scheme of the room or make bright contrasts with their help.

Classic loft style

If the attic is decorated in an old or classic style, then a chandelier suspended in the center of the beam will become a bright accent. Such lighting will help enhance the effect of the high cost of the presence of antiques in the interior of the room.

Modern design trends for the attic

1. If the attic is decorated in modern style, then fluorescent light sources built into the false ceiling will be a good addition to it. You can also use spotlights, which can have rotary and stationary designs.
2. When installing stationary lighting fixtures, you must immediately determine the optimal direction of the light rays. Point rotary devices allow you to change the direction of light if necessary.
3. Glass and metal elements in the design of the attic will also successfully emphasize modern high-tech trends and create glare when the lighting is directed in their direction.

Oriental loft style

1. The romantic atmosphere of the attic in oriental style should be accompanied by a very delicate and subdued lighting. It can be made in the style of openwork lanterns hanging on the walls, carved floor lamps, as well as massive elegant chandeliers, if space permits.
2. To decide on the type of chandelier in the attic and make a successful combination of light and room decor, check out the photo of various design solutions for the attic interior.
3. Local lighting sources visually expand the space of the room. Sconces, table lamps and floor lamps put bright accents on pieces of furniture and decor and give completeness to the interior.

Lighting attic - children's room

1. When designing a children's room, it is worth considering that more light will be needed here than in other rooms. First you need to correctly divide the room into zones. In the area where the child will be active, it is worth placing a lot of light sources. At the same time, they can be arranged in the form of celestial bodies or other decorative objects.
2. The child's study area also needs bright lighting. Here it is appropriate to install a table lamp in a discreet design so that it does not distract attention from the educational process. The brightness of the light should also not be excessive, otherwise it can cause eye fatigue.
3. For children, it is recommended to install controlled lighting in the study area. In this case, it should be possible to regulate not only the direction of the light, but also its intensity.
4. It is convenient to use lamps on a bendable leg or with a mount with which you can attach the lighting fixture to any convenient surface. You can also stop your choice on the spot mounted at the bottom of the book shelf.
5. The sleeping area of ​​the children's room needs a softer and more subdued light. Decorative lamps are appropriate here, which can burn while the child falls asleep. The night light can be made in the form of an animal or a plant, as well as another object that is pleasant for the baby.
6. If more than one child will live in the room, it is recommended to install a bedside lamp for each of them. This will help create a friendly atmosphere between the children and evenly divide the space of the room.

Attic lighting safety rules - children's room

1. It is worth considering that if a children's room is equipped in the attic, then balls, toys and other objects will often fly in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, walls and lighting fixtures installed in these places.
2. To avoid injury, you need to choose suitable options for children's fixtures.
3. All lighting fixtures in a child's room should be made of unbreakable material such as metal or fabric. Chandelier bottles should be installed so that the light bulbs are hidden inside.
4. If there is a baby in the room, then the light from the ceiling should not be too bright, because the baby will look at bright light sources for a long time.

Office lighting on the attic floor

The attic, equipped as an office, should have a high level of illumination. This can be achieved thanks to several levels of light, one of which will definitely be near the desktop.

Leisure area lighting in the attic

1. Many families use the attic space for spending time together. Often a home theater is equipped here. To make watching movies only pleasant sensations, the attic windows should be closed from daylight with the help of blinds made of dark-colored fabric.
2. The cinema area looks good in the lighting of concise spotlights.
3. A gym can be equipped on the attic floor. In this case, it is correct to install 2 light sources: central and side. Additional lighting should be placed near the mirror, then in its reflection you will clearly see your actions.

How to conduct the electrical equipment of the attic

1. Now let's move on to the more prosaic part when designing attic lighting. It should be not only beautiful, but also safe.
2. The electrical wiring of the attic space requires honed skills, since the roof most often consists of wooden beams that are prone to fire when provoking factors occur.
3. To eliminate the possibility of a dangerous situation, it is important to consider the following points:

• it is impossible to use metal brackets to fix the wiring to the wooden elements of the attic due to the risk of damage to the insulating layer;
• it is important to use a special tube with a smooth inner surface to cover the electrical wire, this will help minimize the likelihood of a fire as a result of a power surge;
• it is best to use a three-wire cable, if the choice fell on single-wire or multi-core cables, then you need to be sure of their insulation;
• It is best to entrust the installation of electrical wiring to a professional.

1. Watch video instructions on the Internet, which show how to properly organize attic lighting.

Attic lighting work plan

1. Before installing the wiring, you need to sketch a diagram indicating the installation locations of light sources, sockets and other electrical appliances. At the same time, we calculate the number of sockets using such a simple formula: 1 piece for each electrical appliance + 2 additional sockets.
2. After that, we determine the amount of cable we need. For every 20 sq. the room will require at least 1 cable.
3. For sufficient illumination of the attic space, taking into account the increased load on the power grid, the following limitation is used: 10 points for light sources and 6 for sockets.

With good attic lighting, this room can be equipped for almost any need. With the help of light and thanks to a large selection of lighting fixtures, you can hide a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room or beat the triangular shape of the roof, as well as draw attention to decorative elements.

In this construction season, in our country house under construction, we inserted doors and windows, glazed the winter garden, installed sewerage, water, equipped entrance platforms from monolithic reinforced concrete, finishing work on the basement and facade is now underway. Ahead is the completion of the installation of the drainage system and the final finishing of the roof overhangs with spotlights and a frontal board. All these works should be discussed separately, and as soon as I have time, I will definitely write about them on my blog, on the forum, or in a separate article. And in this material I want to tell you how we electrified our country house.
The fact is that all of the above works were done by professional builders and installers, but with electrical wiring the situation was somewhat different. Firstly, my father-in-law is an energy engineer by education and occupation, my brother works in this area, my neighbor is an electrician, yes, in the end, I myself graduated from MPEI, and in the army I was a senior electrician. That is, there are only electricians around. The matter was somewhat complicated by the fact that two power engineers are already senior workers, I studied and served twenty years ago, but as they say, "the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing." Ahead of events, I can say that modern appliances and devices used in household low-voltage electrical circuits greatly facilitate both installation and further operation of the power supply system of a country house. As it turned out, the installation of electrical wiring, although it was a rather laborious and painstaking process, was far from the most difficult stage in electrifying the house. The longest and most difficult process was draw up a schematic diagram of the energy supply of the house, plans for socket and lighting networks, distribute the loads evenly between the phases, select the wires and automatic machines necessary for the cross section and develop routes for cable lines.

Three phases are better than one, 380 volts, this is not 220 for you.

At the moment developing an energy plan for our home we had a single-phase line with a maximum allocated power of 11.00 kW. And it wasn't particularly encouraging. The calculation of the installed power gave us the result P = 35.00 kW, and the active power was P = 15.00 kW. The issue was resolved somewhat unexpectedly, however, as is often the case here in Russia. Sitting at a barbecue in the evening and discussing this problem with a neighbor electrician and lamenting with him about our lack of three-phase voltage, my father-in-law said "guys, I saw three phases on your linear poles." The fact is that three years ago we had a powerful hurricane and cut off all power lines, and when they were restoring, we did not pay attention to the fact that there were already three phases on the poles. We went, checked, made sure that yes, three phases, and then everything was a matter of technology. An application to the local power supply company for an increase in power, the conclusion of an agreement for the installation and billing of a three-phase meter, and two weeks later we had a voltage of 380 Volts, and allocated power P = 32.00 kW.
Important! According to modern requirements, the supply of three-phase current lines is carried out according to SIP (self-supporting insulated wire), as a rule, this is SIP-4 (four-core cable with a cross section of 16 sq. mm.). The installation of the meter and the automatic power supply is carried out outside the house in a special outdoor shield, then both the meter and the introductory machine are sealed.

Installing a shield with a counter and an introductory machine on a pole

Electrical consumers in a country house

Before starting to develop a schematic diagram of the power supply at home, we compiled a preliminary list of energy consumers in our house. To begin with, we drew an axiometric plan of each room in the house. Since drawing everything in a special program is a long and inconvenient task at the initial stage, we did it all in the old-fashioned way by hand and on an A4 notebook. Of course, in the future, all these drawings and diagrams will be redrawn in computer programs, printed and saved. Then, when the installed capacities of consumers were compiled and calculated, and the following table of the nomenclature of electrical appliances and machines helped us in this (see below), we became design a single-line electrical circuit diagram.

Table No. 1. Nomenclature of electrical appliances and machines

The task was evenly distribute loads between phases and at the same time not create a large number of consumption chains. Again, all this was drawn by hand, and we got the following plan.

According to this scheme, only calculate the conductors and protective devices required for the cross section(automatic devices, RCDs) and draw up a summary specification for purchased electrical products.

With RCD or without RCD - that is the question

Another problem that we decided was whether to install residual current devices (RCDs) of differential current and general high sensitivity protection of 30 mA, and if so, on which circuits and consumers. In addition, it was necessary to resolve the issue, to raise a general introductory three-phase machine with RCD differential protection for 300 mA or limited to an ordinary three-phase machine.

If we take into account that a 300 mA RCD saves a lethal current from leaks, and this is a current of 100 mA and above, then the installation of such an introductory machine, in principle, should not raise any questions. But with RCD differential. current and a total protection of 30 mA, we have them. The advantage of such protection is that these machines provide protection against currents that cause heart fibrillation, which is very dangerous for the cores. But the fact is that they are still very sensitive to any environmental influences that can cause the slightest current leakage, which leads to the shutdown of the entire power line and consumers located on it.
Reference: RCDs of differential current and general protection (differential circuit breakers) of high sensitivity of 30 mA provide protection against all faults that may occur in the circuit, i.e. overloads, short circuits and current leakage.

Therefore, taking into account all these points, we decided to put an RCD of differential and general protection for a leakage current of 30 mA in the circuit that feeds the consumers of kitchen equipment (oven, mini-fridge, dishwasher) and limit ourselves to this.
The calculation of circuit breakers for other electrical circuits was carried out on the basis of the data in tables No. 2, No. 3 and calculations for the loads of each specific power circuit.

Table No. 2. Correspondence table "protection device - cross-section of cable cores".

Table No. 3. Correspondence table "protection device - wire section".

Cables and wires

To connect the house to the mains, we bought cable brand VBbSh 4x16. This is a copper four-core armored cable, which allows it to be laid underground, which we did. By the way, already at this stage, you need to know that all modern cables are produced with a certain marking and color. (Table No. 4)

Table number 4. Cable marking.

For internal wiring, we purchased cable series VVGng and NYM with a cross section of cores from 1.50 sq. mm. up to 4.00 sq. mm. in two, three, four and even five core options. The total length of the purchased cable only for laying the power supply of the first floor of the house was 234 meters. When a familiar electrician told me that a two-story cottage of 200 sq.m. it takes about 400 meters of cable, I did not believe it, now I understand from my own experience that this is true.

NYM is a power cable with PVC insulated copper conductors in a PVC sheath with filling.

As I already noted, in order to determine the required thickness of the cores of the supply cable, it was necessary to calculate the loads from each consumer located on this power circuit. The following table is very helpful.

Table No. 5. Calculation of the cable section.

Electrical panel assembly

The assembly and layout of the shield is also quite painstaking work. It is necessary to assemble the shield in such a way that in the future you can easily and quickly add another consumer, or vice versa, transfer the circuit to a backup machine or re-switch it to another phase.

Laying and installation of electrical wiring

When all the schemes, plans were ready on paper, a shield, wires, cables, junction boxes, terminal blocks, sockets, cartridges and light bulbs were purchased, we started chasing the walls. Already at the preliminary stage of developing the power supply scheme for the house, we abandoned the idea of ​​laying electrical lines in boxes and skirting boards with a mounting hole. The boxes looked, as it seemed to us, not aesthetically pleasing, and it was problematic to lay all the necessary lines in the baseboards. Who knows, if I had, for example, a brick house, then I would probably and strongly think about alternative hidden wiring options, but since I have a gas-block house, this wiring option turned out to be the most convenient and practical. Aerated concrete walls are easily chipped with almost any tool, I adapted a jigsaw for this, and the strobes are hollowed out either with a chisel or a chisel.

But as I already said, the process of chasing walls from aerated concrete is rather a tedious process than a difficult one, you just have to take into account that in the process of chasing it is necessary to ventilate the rooms well and be sure to do this in respirators, since the dust is very fine, and I would not recommend swallowing it. You can also buy an electric wall chaser with a special nozzle for a vacuum cleaner and the problem is solved, but such a miracle costs about 5,000 rubles. And this will not save you from the need to hammer the strobe. Cables, before laying in a strobe, we pulled into special corrugations with a diameter of 15 to 30 mm. And already in the corrugation, the cable was laid in prepared channels, where it was fastened with ordinary carnations, and then it was all plastered.

Ground loop

Since at one time we built a house, including the foundation, without taking into account further work on lightning protection and power supply at home (what is this my big mistake), now we have to solve all these issues based on the circumstances. How we solved the issue with the lightning rod, I will write another time.
Important! Remember that the grounding circuit of the electrical system of the house, according to all standards and SNIPs, should never be combined with a lightning rod.
And with the ground loop, we acted very simply. We bought three metal corners 50x50 mm, each 2.5 long and 5 mm thick metal. The rods were driven into the underground of the technical room for the entire length, with a distance between the rods of 3 m. This triangle was combined with a common steel strip, and a ground wire was screwed to it on a bolted connection, the other end of which was led to the ground bus in the power panel.

Table No. 6. Selection of the standard size of the bolted connection for the protective zero for the load current.

Light in my windows.

All the preparatory and practical work took us about three weeks, the cost of materials for the electrification of the house was approximately 50,000 rubles. Now the house has electricity and in the evenings its windows are lit, and believe me, this is an indescribable feeling.

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The use of mansard roofs has been practiced in construction for a long time. In megacities, where the cost of land is constantly growing, the construction of an attic is the only best option for increasing living space. Initially, the attic floors were intended for poor people who could not rent a room for a high rent.

The modern installation of the attic roof is significantly different from what was offered before, and the use of various building materials facilitates the process of its insulation and protection (read: ""). For independent work, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the main stages of the construction of the attic.

What kind of roof to choose?

At the preliminary stage of construction, the developer must decide on the type of roof of the future attic space. You can equip an attic for further living under any pitched roof. The roof of the mansard roof should be built taking into account the requirements for the room.

There are 2 types of rooms that can be seen in the photo:

• summer premises - they are in demand by the owners only in the warm season, they do not need special decoration and insulation;
• warm rooms - can be used all year round due to high-quality thermal insulation.

The walls of the attic are located both obliquely at a slight angle and vertically. When choosing a hip gable or four-pitched roof, it is possible to fully utilize the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Before starting work, you should create a project for the roof structure and obtain permission for the attic, outline the location of the front door and consider where the staircase will be installed. The main advantages of design include the accuracy of calculating the necessary materials for rafters, vapor and waterproofing, laying the roof, and finishing the entire structure as a whole.

If the attic is to be used as permanent housing, then the attic must be wired, the walls, floor and ceiling must be insulated, and heating must be installed.

Mansard roof: construction features

The attic will turn out to be reliable and will last for a long time only if it is initially created strong. When erecting an attic in a wooden house from a bar, the upper crowns of the log house will be the basis for the rafter system. If the walls are built of brick or concrete, then a reinforced concrete reinforced belt is installed on top, which will help not only to level the walls, but also to install the truss system. Regardless of the option chosen, the mansard roof pie is built according to the same principle.

The reinforced belt also serves as the basis for the Mauerlat, mounted on galvanized metal studs.

Mauerlat - the main load-bearing rafter, the installation of which depends on the shape of the roof:

• for a gable roof, it is attached to the same walls that support the rafters;
• for four-pitched structures - to the walls around the entire perimeter of the house;

Stages of construction of the truss system

Floor beams are laid on the Mauerlat, and a boardwalk is laid on top of them, which will become the basis for laying the floor. After that, proceed to the construction of rafters in accordance with the selected type of roof. A gable roof is made quite quickly and simply, but working with a four-pitched hip roof will be much more stressful, especially if an attic is being built from lstk or other similar materials.

Rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat with small notches on the rafters. To lengthen the legs, you need to splice the boards, and strengthen the resulting joint with the same board more than 50 cm long. Since the reliability of the entire structure depends on the strength of the attachment points, various struts, struts, crossbars, etc. are widely used here.

If the house was built with reinforced concrete floors, then the main part of the work will be similar to if the attic was built on pillars, but there are some distinctive points. For example, puffs should be mounted on the rafter legs at the places where triangles are formed, which will later be used as lags for the floor of the room. Vertical racks resting on the rafters are attached to the same puffs. Fixation of individual elements of the system is carried out using metal brackets, corners, bolts, nails and self-tapping screws.

Stages of laying a roofing pie

As soon as the rafter system is completely ready, you can start working with vapor barrier and crate.

Features of mounting the crate:

• To determine the pitch of the crate and its size, it is enough to have an idea about the roofing used.
• If the roof is covered with slate, then thick bars will be needed for the crate, if with a profiled sheet or metal tile, then thin ones.
• Rafter legs are made of dry coniferous wood, the traditional section of the board is 50x150 mm, for a slate roof - 60x160 mm.

At this stage, a thorough check of all the elements on which the mansard roof will be installed is carried out - if necessary, they are additionally strengthened, the rafter system undergoes antiseptic treatment. After that, the waterproofing material and the roof itself are laid.

Insulation of the attic space is carried out only after the dismantling of the walls and ceiling of the future living space. A crate is mounted to the walls, made according to the dimensions of the mineral insulation boards (read: ""). Without such a frame, during the operation of the attic, slipping of the insulation is often observed, which will lead to freezing and blowing through bare walls.

It is quite feasible to do it yourself, but throughout the work you should follow the technology of building an attic and take even minor details seriously.

The next step, during which the roofing pie of the attic roof will be completely finished, is insulation. The construction market offers a wide range of heat-insulating products for, among which the most suitable for the attic floor can be insulation made of expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and fiberglass.

Experienced builders point to the greater efficiency of mineral wool raw materials, which are able to envelop the truss system much better, which prevents the formation of cold bridges and condensation. When working with foam boards, it is impossible to achieve the integrity of the coating - the resulting joints are not sealed even with mounting foam. The advantage of mineral wool and glass wool is the ability to completely fill the space of any shape without gaps and cracks.

Vapor barrier in a roofing pie, how to avoid mistakes, details on the video:

Insulation of the under-roof space is carried out as follows. The insulation is placed between the rafters, filling the entire area, a vapor barrier is attached on top of it, if it is done using a vapor barrier film with a foil layer, then it is better to turn it inside the room. For reliable fixation of vapor barrier materials, building brackets are used. At the final stage, it is performed or drywall.

In a word, for self-assembly of a mansard roof, it is enough to have a little construction experience and comply with all the requirements listed above.

Electrical wiring in the attic is a factor of increased danger, because the roof structure mainly consists of wooden, and, therefore, fire hazardous elements. Therefore, the installation of electrical wiring requires professional knowledge and skills, as well as extreme care.

The main difficulty lies in the fact that the space between the wooden elements of the roof structure, as a rule, is densely filled with thermal insulation. Electrical wiring, in turn, is practically devoid of the possibility of heat removal and, therefore, can heat up, especially from high current strength.

Difficulties are added by the fact that there are no clear domestic rules and standards regarding the installation of electrical equipment in under-roof rooms. Therefore, in the process of installing the electrical network in the attic, one should be guided by the existing GOST standards and, of course, common sense.

When installing the electrical network in under-roof rooms, you should use:

• for the installation of lighting fixtures - copper wires with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm;
• for the installation of sockets - copper wires with a cross section of at least 2.5 sq. mm;
• to protect the wiring - fuses for a rated current of 10A;
• to protect sockets - fuses for a rated current of at least 16A.

Besides:

• the installation of the network should be carried out, avoiding the use of junction boxes, i.e., each cable must be run from one power source to one "point";
• the electrical network must be provided with a separate circuit breaker with a trip setting of 30 mA.

For electrical wiring installed in the attic, it is recommended to use a three-wire cable, in extreme cases, three single-wire cables laid in a special protective casing or tube. If necessary, the wiring can also be assembled from double-insulated wires or from multi-core cables.

Note:
Electrical wiring laid on a wooden base should in no case be fixed with metal brackets. Such fasteners not only do not provide the recommended distance between the wire and the base, but can also damage the insulation.

We create a plan
Before proceeding with the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to accurately consider the future needs of users. A plan should be created indicating the installation locations for lighting fixtures, sockets, etc. If some "points" are intended to power too powerful devices (electric stoves, convector heaters, fan heaters), separate wires must be allocated for them. If it is planned to install a water-heating boiler in the under-roof room, the power to such a unit must be supplied separately.

The number of "points" for lighting fixtures depends on the purpose of each individual room. But the number of outlets can be easily calculated in advance - for each electrical appliance you need a separate outlet, plus two spare ones.

After counting the required number of "points", we can begin to determine the amount of cable we need. On average, there is one cable for every 15-20 sq.m of living space. Well, in the roofing room there can be much more wires.

Many sources clearly indicate the maximum number of "points" for one power grid. Usually these are 20 lighting fixtures and 10 sockets. But in the attic, lighting fixtures are at a greater height than in other residential premises. Therefore, for high-quality attic lighting, you have to use more powerful lamps. In this case, to reduce the load on the wiring, the following restriction for electrical networks should be adopted: 10 points for lighting fixtures and 6 for sockets.

Cables intended for powering especially powerful devices should end with only one connector. First of all, this applies to refrigerators, freezers, etc.