Pouring floor in the steam room. The right floors in the Russian bath

Features of the design of pouring floors depending on the location of the bath, binding to the ground, a video on the organization of draining water with a water seal system, arranging the underground, installing a stove.

At first glance, it seems that even a schoolboy can handle the installation of a pouring floor in a bathhouse. Perhaps, if it turns out to be an intelligent student studying in high school and physically strong enough, then he will be able to master the amount of construction work required during the construction of the building, work with the soil and laying the leaking flooring.

Construction of pouring floor
Floors with a leaky floor structure are considered traditional in the construction of a Russian bath. The floorboards are made from hardwood. When laying on logs, gaps are left between them through which water flows freely into the underground. In the subfield, a pit for wastewater is specially dug out and equipped, and with the help of additional ditches, the bathhouse is diverted from under the foundation into a pit, from which they enter the sewer system.
When the soil is composed of sandy and sandy loamy soils, the pit device is impractical, since the water flows, breaking on the rubble and reaching the bottom of the pit, are absorbed by the sand and are independently diverted into natural drainage.
If the soil is composed of clay and loamy soils, a drainage system is necessary. To do this, a water intake structure is arranged inside the pit. In the underground for the reception of waste water, a collection is equipped. This may be a pit with concrete walls and a base, or lined with bricks and coated with a layer of clay. Before pouring rubble, a drain pipe is installed in it, through which water will be drained into a pit located outside the walls of the bath. And from there, the waste water is discharged into the sewer network or the wastewater discharge system.

Drainage system

The device of the drainage system requires a lot of physical effort. At the very beginning of the work, the entire soil cover is removed under the entire base of the steam and washing compartments. A hole is dug in this place, at least 400 mm deep, and compacted tightly. A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into it, which is also compacted, and the pit is filled with rubble. Then, in a place designated and convenient for the owner, a pit is arranged.

Briefly about the main

Concrete screed. It is poured in such a way as to have a slight slope towards the intake structure. When building a large bath, logs should be laid. They are mounted on support posts, which can be made of brick. The posts are reinforced with concrete mortar using a reinforcing mesh and are covered with high-quality insulation. Supports can also be treated on all sides with a special mastic based on bitumen.
Log installation. As a log, bars are used, measuring 150x150 mm. The step between their laying is 0.5 m. Before laying the bars, they must be treated twice with special impregnations and an antiseptic. When laying the log on the support posts, it is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing at the point of contact.
Floorboard laying. The floorboards are laid in such a way that there is a gap between them - a gap, at least 5 mm wide. This distance will ensure the free outflow of water used in the bath. The tree is able to draw water in a damp room and swell. The gaps between the floorboards at a distance of 5-7 mm do not close, and do not provoke sewage blockage.

In order to build the correct floor of a leaking structure in the bathhouse, two basic rules must be observed:
The entire structure of the floor and the associated underground must be provided with a ventilation system.
Timely removed damp air from under the bathhouse underground will not allow the boardwalk to undergo premature decay processes, which will significantly extend its service life.
The installation of a pouring floor in the bathhouse is started only after the drainage or drainage system of the underground is completed and the furnace is erected.
It is best to install the stove in such a way that it blows below the floor level. With such an arrangement of the furnace, the underground will always be provided with an influx of fresh air masses, therefore, damp air will not linger there.
There are positive aspects to laying floors of a pouring structure. Floorboards made of wood have a certain amount of appeal because they are warm and environmentally friendly.
The negative side can be attributed to the fact that they quickly enough, in comparison with the concrete base, become unusable and require full or partial replacement. Especially often this happens in a poorly ventilated underground area, or in the complete absence of a ventilation system.
Ivanovo Renovation Construction Construction Finishing Projects Design

The pouring floor in the bath is a classic. The design of the pouring floor in the bath is simple, and the technology is even simpler: the boardwalk is laid on the logs without sealing the joints, this is easy to do. During bath water procedures, as well as during washing and cleaning, all water flows down through the cracks. Further - according to the situation. In the most severe case, the water stays for some time, seeps, deteriorates, evaporates, and so on. in a windproof cold underground. The result for the bathhouse is the appearance of the so-called heavy steam. This is a very unpleasant feeling of stuffiness, unpleasant odors, leading to unwillingness to stay in this room for a long time.

Do-it-yourself pouring floor in the bath

A wooden floorboard has a lot of advantages, but as a living, capillary material, it will always absorb water and rot. Unless, of course, this tree is bog oak or "iron wood". Full antiseptic and staining for water protection for bath floorboards is not an option. Therefore, they act “easier” - they organize the heating and ventilation of the underground with hot air from the steam room. In a bathhouse built on piles, such a problem is solved easily. To do this, several conditions must be met:

• Both rooms - both the washing room and the steam room - have a common pouring floor and a common underground with a pallet below.
• The washing and steam rooms are separated from other rooms by a common fence, and this partition is as airtight as possible.
• The windows and doors are closed, and the air draft for the combustion chamber comes only from the washing compartment. Fresh air from the street enters the bath rooms only and only through the ventilation ducts, which are led through the pile grillage and passing under the convection heaters of the furnace.
• The stove is heated in the steam room from the side of the washing room, and the stove is located in the partition between the steam room and the washing room.

When the stove begins to warm up during the combustion, draft occurs and fresh outside air is taken in, which passes through the ventilation duct under the convector and heats up. The heated air, according to the laws of physics, goes up to the ceiling of the steam room, and when cooled, it goes down, and since there is draft in the sealed room, still warm air goes through the pouring floor below, into the underground. But, since the underground is isolated, the air does not go out into the street, but again into the washing department and from there in a circle - into the furnace of the stove. The more the air heats up, the faster this cycle occurs, while not only the steam room and washing room, but also the underground is blown and warmed up.

The ventilation ducts go from the outside through the holes made in the grillage (air ducts that are optimally designed at the foundation stage), then pass between the floor joists and go to the furnace heating devices (convector).

The whole system is designed precisely with the calculation of the future ventilation of the underground. The foundation can be tape, pile-screw, from bored piles or piles using TISE technology. On the piles, a grillage is mounted from a bar, with a section according to the calculation, fixing it on the piles with the help of anchor bolts. Logs are laid along the grillage, fastened with self-tapping screws or nails. Be sure to do antiseptic and flame retardant treatment of all - grillage, strapping for logs and log - wooden structures. Under the grillage, simultaneously with the installation of ventilation, a pallet with sealing will be installed. The material for the manufacture of the pallet can be plastic, stainless steel, or polycarbonate, with a support frame made of timber or boards.

The pallet consists of two parts - a contour frame and a base made with a slope for water to drain to a certain point, the lowest, optimally in one of the corners of the grillage. The shape of the pallet is simple, rectangular or square, the board (bar) for the support frame is taken from 50 mm thick. The pallet will be installed directly on the ground or drainage bedding, depending on the soil conditions, but the treatment of wooden structures with a fire-retardant composition is mandatory in any case. A practical option for assembling the bottom of the pallet is structural plastic, durable, bio-resistant and affordable. It is possible to use monolithic polycarbonate with a thickness of 3-4 mm. Fasteners are performed on special self-tapping screws with thermal washers. The pallet is attached to the grillage with bolts or self-tapping screws. All joints are sealed. Access to the drain must be free for its operation and periodic cleaning.

The pallet is not needed if the underground can be insulated in another way, for example, if the bathhouse is built on a strip foundation, you can close the ventilation holes (vents in the tape) while the furnace is burning.

Ventilation channels of the pouring floor in the bath

The hardest part is the ventilation duct. It is more practical to bring it to the heaters in the gaps between the lags, passing closer to the furnace. There must be air in the grillage. If the grillage is made of timber, or a thick plank, then you can drill holes in it. The logs themselves will serve as the frame of the ventilation duct. The inlet fan is installed outside, the openings are closed with gratings. The bottom and cover of the ventilation duct can be assembled from a board, plywood, OSB sheet, with sealing. Under the stove there will be a ventilation duct cover, partially fixed with a permanent fixture. For cleaning and maintenance of the ventilation duct, the cover can be made of two parts, the second part is removable. Openings should be arranged in the lid, which should be protected from debris and dust with a fine grid or mesh. From above, the cover is closed with a glass-magnesium sheet with slots at the level of the ventilation duct openings. When sealing the joints, the channel will turn out to be thermally insulated. An additional supply anemostat can be mounted on the outlet of the ventilation duct to adjust the air draft.

Shower flooring in the bath

The flooring device is no different in technology from a conventional pouring floor. If you use wide boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more, their weight will allow you not to make fasteners. In this case, the maintenance of the pallet, cleaning and checking the ventilation duct is even more simplified. It is possible to additionally dry the boards by removing them and placing them on edge during those periods when the sauna is not heated. The tray is easy to wash and clean.

The advantages of this solution are the quick heating of the bath, always clean air and a warm, dry floor. Hot in such a steam room after the heating of the bath will be not only the shelves, but also the floors. You can forget about the problem of heavy steam and mustiness, floor boards last a very long time. The only negative is the result of good ventilation - part of the heated air is removed, so you have to heat a little more.

The problem of heavy steam, constantly cold floors, rotting floorboards and mustiness in the steam room is familiar to many attendants firsthand. In fact, all this is solvable, especially at the construction stage. A good effect is the use of a pouring floor (with slots), heated and dried through ventilation. I will try to explain how I managed to implement this technical solution in a frame bath on screw piles.

The pouring floor is a classic, there is nothing complicated. The boards are not stacked close to each other, but with small gaps. Water that falls on the floor seeps through these cracks into the underground. She stays there for a while. If the subfloor is not ventilated and remains cold, the smell of dampness appears, and gradually the floorboards begin to rot. In addition, there is heavy steam, stuffiness, there is a feeling that there is nothing to breathe. Pleasant little.

Of course, it is worth noting that such a nuisance is common, both for pouring floors and for ordinary wooden floors with floorboards laid end-to-end. The tree, whatever one may say, absorbs moisture and from this begins to rot.

The problem can be solved by including the floor and subfloor in the general ventilation system of bath rooms. That is, you need to make sure that warm air from the steam room can get into the underground, warm up and dry the wet floorboards. Due to the design of pouring floors (the presence of slots), it is quite easy to “force” hot air to descend into the underground and do your job there.

In my bath, this is implemented as follows:

• in the sink and steam room, a pouring floor is used with a common subfloor in the form of a pallet;
• the walls of the sink and the steam room are isolated and separated by a hermetic partition;
• the stove is embedded in the partition between the sink and the steam room, the firebox is carried out from the side of the sink;
• air for the furnace is taken only from the sink (with doors and windows closed);
• outside air is supplied to the bath through the ventilation duct located under the convectors of the furnace; air access to the steam room through other channels is not provided.

When the furnace is fired and draft occurs, the external air enters the convector through the ventilation duct, warms up and rises up - under the ceiling of the steam room. Gradually, it cools down, sinks and, under the action of traction, passes through the cracks of the pouring floor into the underground.

I repeat that the subfloor in my version of the floor is a sealed tray and the heated air, having entered it, does not dissipate, but exits through the floor cracks into the washing room. Then it enters the furnace furnace. Thus, the air moves along the circuit, blowing and warming the underground.

The following photos clearly illustrate the technological solutions for the described ventilation scheme:

Partition between the sink and the steam room, the oven is built into the partition

Under the stove there is a ventilation duct through which outside air is accessed to the convector

Ventilation duct openings in grillage

There is nothing difficult in this. It is enough to install the stove between the sink and the steam room, arrange a ventilation channel between the lags to supply air to the stove convectors. And pouring floors with a sealed underground will be included in the ventilation system. Now I have come to the most important issue, to which my photo report is devoted, - the issue of installing hot pouring floors.

Step by step construction process

Step 1. Installation of grillage and log

I started the flooring after the screw piles were screwed in and poured with concrete, serving as the foundation for my bathhouse under construction. The height of the posts above the ground is 50 cm, only 10 pieces.

The first step is the installation of the grillage. I made it from horizontal beds (boards 200x50 mm) that go into the internal space between piles and vertically installed boards 150x50 mm. The boards of the beam are fastened with self-tapping screws and nailed. The grillage is installed on piles and bolted to them with anchor bolts.

The logs are laid on the beds, pulled together through the vertical boards of the grillage with self-tapping screws and nailed with 100 mm nails.

All boards are antiseptic HMF BF. According to the project, a polycarbonate pallet will be pushed under the grillage and screwed to the beds.

Step #2. Ventilation device

To ensure air supply to the stove convector, a ventilation duct was formed in two interlag gaps (under the stove). To do this, I drilled holes in the grillage board, closed the opening between the lags with crossbars, hemmed the OSB sheet from the bottom, and smeared the seams with sealant.

Holes in the grillage board - for air access to the ventilation duct

Logs under the bottom of the furnace, forming the frame of the ventilation duct

I made a double cover for the ventilation duct, also from OSB. In the first part of the lid (it is permanently installed, not removed), I cut out holes that will be placed under the bottom of the furnace. He covered them with a fine metal mesh - to protect against dust and dirt.

I did not fix the second part of the cover with anything, it can be removed to clean the ventilation duct if necessary. The joint was sealed with sanitary tape. On top of the cover I put two LSU plates with cut out windows so that they coincided with the holes in the cover of the ventilation duct. All seams were covered with sealant. As a result, I got a ventilation duct with thermal protection.

The cover for the ventilation duct is made double with two holes through which air will enter the furnace convector

Magnesium glass sheet (SML) is a non-combustible material with excellent thermal insulation properties.

Outside, I put an anemostat on the ventilation duct holes in order to be able to block access to the duct (draught reduction, insect protection). I also installed a supply fan to increase the flow of fresh air.

Anemostat allows you to open and close the ventilation duct as needed

The supply fan allows you to increase the flow of outside air into the steam room

Step #3 Pallet assembly

Let me remind you that my pouring floor design consists of two parts - the floor itself (floorboards on logs) and a sealed pallet that slides under the grillage.

I'll start with the pallet. It is made up of a wooden contour (board) and a polycarbonate bottom with a drain. The form of the pallet is the simplest, providing for the slope of the body boards to the right corner of the grillage. There goes the drain.

The body is knocked together from boards 150x50 mm, treated with an antiseptic HMF BF.

Bottom material - polycarbonate used for greenhouses, 4 mm thick. I don’t worry about it, it is one of the most reliable and durable engineering plastics. Polycarbonate is screwed to the body boards with self-tapping bugs. The places where the hats with polycarbonate fit are protected with sanitary tape.

Polycarbonate sheet screwed to wooden pallet body

So that the polycarbonate does not sag, the bottom is reinforced with wooden slats.

Reiki will not allow the polycarbonate bottom to sag and crack under its own weight and the weight of water

The drain point is lined from below with a triangular overlay from OSB. All seams, joints are smeared with sealant.

The finished pallet is pushed under the grillage, lubricated with sealant, jacked up and bolted to the boards with plumbing bolts. The joints are sealed with sealant.

The tray turned out to be very airtight, the water leaves only through the drain. When the drain is clogged (with soap, small debris), then the water is in the pan, as in a trough. This necessitates checking the condition of the sump and cleaning the drain as needed.

For the ventilated floor scheme to work, it is not necessary to make a special pallet, like mine. The main thing is that the underground is airtight.

For example, concrete when using a strip foundation. Then the walls of the foundation will become the walls of the underground. But! The vents will have to be plugged during the heating of the bath, otherwise, instead of heating the floor, you can get condensation on the surfaces of the subfloor.

Step #4 Floorboard laying

I decided to use dry planed boards as floorboards. He laid them on the logs, left the cracks. I didn’t fix the boards with anything, I just laid them out and that’s it - good, they are heavy, so they practically don’t “walk”. This solution helps me to simplify the maintenance and cleaning of the pallet. After visiting the bath, the boards are removed, placed on edge and dried. The tray can be washed and the drain cleaned.

The floor boards are laid with gaps - for water drainage and free air circulation

Hot pouring floor in the steam room - a worthy solution to the problem of heavy steam and stale air in the bath

results

As a result, the floors in my bath are always warm and dry. And yet - light steam and quick heating of all surfaces.

According to the climate in the bath there is the following:

• With the doors closed and the furnace burning, the temperature on the shelf rises to 45°C in 10-15 minutes (provided that the bathhouse is slightly warmed up with open doors to a temperature on the shelf of 25°C).
• After an hour of bathing procedures, the temperature on the shelf is about 60°C, the floorboards are heated up to 50°C. The floor becomes pleasantly warm, almost hot, as do the walls with the shelf.
• The floor in the steam room dries almost instantly, and in the washing area - in a few hours.
• It is easy to breathe in the steam room, as fresh air is supplied (which is immediately heated by the stove) through the ventilation duct.
• There is no need for frequent ventilation.
• No musty smell.
• You feel that the air is drier than in the old Russian baths, but, of course, not to the same extent as in the sauna. Raising the humidity is simple - you need to add water to the heater.

There are also some drawbacks, but they are minor, at least for me. Firstly, the efficiency of the bath is somewhat reduced, since fresh air is constantly heated, the heated portion is discharged into the street. Secondly, various soap accessories and shampoos are very hot on the hot floor. You need to look for another place for them or take them out of the steam room during a particularly intense soar.

In general, I like my bath. Warming up in the shortest possible time, fresh air, warm dry floors. The problem of mustiness, rotting floorboards and cold floors is completely solved.

The bath belongs to the "wet" premises and all its structural elements should be built taking into account this feature. First of all, this applies to the floor in the steam room and the washing department, because it is he who is responsible for the drainage. Our conversation will focus on the types of floors for baths and the technology of their device with their own hands.

Types of floors for a bath

First of all, bath floors differ in material. As in residential premises, they can be:

The device of a concrete floor is an expensive, long and time-consuming process, but this option is also more durable: the service life is about 50 years. With a floor made of planks, it's the other way around: it's cheap, and you have to mess around less, but it will last only 7–8 years. After this period, the wood will need to be replaced.

There are no outsiders among these types, and both are quite in demand, so we will consider both options in detail.

plank floor

Floors of this type are further divided into two varieties:

In the first case, the floor is a kind of grate through which water flows directly onto the ground underneath. This is the easiest and cheapest option. It is clear that with slots in the floor, the bath can only be operated in summer, that is, this design is most suitable for summer residents.

The non-leaking plank floor is solid. It is given a slope towards one of the walls, along which a plastic chute is installed to collect water. The gutter, in turn, has a slope towards the drain hole. Since wetting the underground space with proper installation is excluded, insulation can be placed here, so this type of floor can be considered acceptable for year-round baths.

Selection of materials and calculation of their quantity

Both leaking and non-leaking flooring is a covering of planks laid on beams called joists. The lags, in turn, rest on a foundation or grillage (if the foundation is columnar), and, if necessary, also on intermediate columns. Before starting work on arranging a plank floor, a number of parameters must be determined.

Section lag

The cross-sectional dimensions of the log are selected taking into account the expected distance between the supports. With a standard load on the floor (up to 300 kg / sq. M), the following relationship takes place:

• with a distance between supports of 2 m: section dimensions - 110x60 mm;
• at 3 m: 150x80 mm;
• at 4 m: 180x100 mm;
• at 5 m: 200x150 mm;
• at 6 m: 220x180 mm.

If the distance between the walls exceeds the bearing capacity of the available timber, one or more intermediate supports - the so-called high chairs - must be installed on the soil base in the middle of the span. Usually they are brick pillars with plan dimensions of 250x250 mm, installed on a low concrete foundation with plan dimensions of 350x350 mm.

There is also a simpler version of the “high chair”: an asbestos-cement pipe of sufficient diameter is dug into the ground, and then concrete or cement mortar is poured into it.

If there is no timber of suitable thickness available, the logs can be made composite by installing several thinner boards side by side, which in total will give the required thickness. Since such a structure, unlike a solid beam, is not monolithic, its height should be taken 10–20 mm more than indicated in the list just given.

Step between lags

Knowing the lag installation step, the builder will be able to calculate the amount of timber for their manufacture and the amount of materials for the support posts.

The step will depend on the thickness of the finishing boards. You should follow this dependency:

For the manufacture of flooring, you should use a smoothly planed board of the 1st or 2nd grade. Aspen is considered the most preferred breed - it is resistant to moisture and is warm to the touch. Oak also tolerates high humidity well, but it is colder.

You can also use conifers, but you need to be prepared for the fact that the resin protruding from them can appear in the form of ugly spots and even cause allergies in some users.

When calculating the number of boards for a leaking floor, the width of the gap between them should be taken into account - 5–7 mm.

Do-it-yourself leaky plank floor for a sauna or bath: a step-by-step guide

The technology includes the following stages: preparation of the base, laying the log and installation of the flooring.

Soil preparation

The method of preparation depends on the type of soil under the bath and how it is decided to dispose of the waste. There are two options:

• the soil has good drainage properties (sandy or rocky);
• the soil passes water poorly (clay, loam, sandy loam).

In the first case, it is enough to arrange a filter made of crushed stone or gravel covered with a layer of 25 cm under the floor. Excavation should be carried out to such a depth that there is a distance of at least 10 cm from the top of the filter to the bottom of the lag.

If the soil does not absorb water, do the following:

On the ground under the floor, a crushed stone pillow is arranged with a 10-degree slope towards the pit, and on top of it - one of two:

• a waterproof pallet made of roofing material, the sheets of which are welded or glued together with bituminous mastic;
• clay castle 80–100 mm thick.

To make a castle, you need to soak the clay with water and make a thick solution out of it. When laying it, it must be carefully leveled, and then, when the coating dries slightly, iron it out, slightly wetting it with water.

Important! Before backfilling the rubble, do not forget to install the support posts for the log, if necessary, and the foundation for the furnace.

Log laying

Logs should be laid so that the long side of the cross section is vertical. When installing a leaking floor, they are laid parallel to the shortest wall of the room. Logs should not touch directly the foundation or support posts. It is necessary to lay them on gaskets of 2 or 3 layers of roofing material, coated with bitumen dissolved in diesel fuel or molten.

Advice. Anyone who is willing to spend a little more can be recommended to use a modern waterproofing agent - eurobitumen, as more effective.

Flooring installation

As already mentioned, the boards of the final flooring are laid with a gap of 5-7 mm. It is advisable not to nail the flooring to the logs, but to make it in the form of several removable shields, nailing several boards to two crossbars. The latter are arranged so that when laying the shield they are between the lags. The removable floor can be taken out to dry, which will significantly extend its service life.

Important! The boards should not come close to the walls - there should be a gap of 20 mm around the perimeter of the flooring.

Note! It is important to provide in the foundation of the bath, if it is solid, holes (air vents) through which the underground space will be ventilated.

Leak-proof plank flooring

The flooring of a non-leaking floor is made of a tongue-and-groove board, that is, one that has a groove along the edges and a corresponding ridge for a lock connection. Thanks to the lock, the cover is waterproof.

The step-by-step instruction looks like this:

1. As in the case of a non-leaking floor, a 25 cm thick bedding is arranged over the compacted soil, but since the non-leaking floor is insulated, it is better to use expanded clay instead of crushed stone. The soil must be taken out to such a depth that a distance of at least 150 mm remains from the top of the backfill to the bottom of the wooden structures. Although the penetration of water into the underground space is excluded, in this case it must also be well ventilated, for which purpose air vents must be arranged in the foundation. This will prevent the wood underneath from rotting.
2. We lay logs on the foundation and support posts. When installing a non-leaking floor, they should be directed across the water flow. With this design, moisture will flow down the boards along the wood fibers, that is, with minimal resistance.
3. Having set the logs, the so-called draft floor is nailed to them from below - a filing made of the cheapest, waste material, for example, a cut slab. A heat insulator will be laid on this structural element in the future. It should also be treated with an antiseptic beforehand.
4. Next, the logs with a subfloor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It is pressed into the gaps between the beams, as a result of which it fits both them and the filing. The edges of the film should go on the walls by about 100 mm.
5. Insulation is placed between the lags. In this case, it is better to use mineral wool as this, since it is of no interest to rodents. If the foam is laid and the mice manage to get to it, which is very likely in the conditions of a suburban area, then they will gnaw out whole holes in this material.
6. From above, the insulation is covered with a film with hydro-vapor barrier properties. It should also be released on the wall.
7. On top of the lag we fill a solid flooring from a tongue-and-groove board. Do not forget that a gap of 20 mm should be left around the entire perimeter. Each board is nailed to the joists with two nails, and they should be driven in at an angle of 45 degrees - then the boards will be pressed against each other as tightly as possible. At first, it is recommended to simply “grab” the boards, but the final adjustment and fixation is best done after the finishing work is completed and the bath is dried.

Note! Before laying the logs, you need to prepare them in a special way, because it is with their help that the slope towards the gutter is formed. In the course of water movement, wood is cut off the beams, reducing their height more and more, and in addition, the cutting is increased on one side by 2–3 mm so that the logs lie with a certain slope. The slope should be 10 degrees. In addition, the wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic. For the treatment of bath floor boards, only an environmentally friendly antiseptic, for example, Neomid 200, should be used.

After installing the finished floor covering, you need to cut the film sticking out from under it and sew it to the walls.

Note! Wall sheathing should lie on top of the baseboard so that moisture flowing down them does not penetrate under it.

It remains to install an inclined chute with a drain hole connected to the sewer along one of the walls.

Please note that a conventional bath drain water trap is not suitable - during long periods of inactivity it will dry out. A so-called dry shutter should be used, the main element of which is a hollow light ball or a damper made of floating material. Water entering the drain will cause the ball or flapper to float, opening the drain hole. When the flow dries up, the locking element will lower under its own weight and close the hole, thus preventing the penetration of odors from the sewer.

Concrete base device

Anyone who preferred a concrete floor needs to do the following:

1. The soil base should be carefully compacted.
2. From above, fill and compact a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 150 mm.
3. Pour concrete preparation with a thickness of 50 mm, after laying a mesh of fine reinforcement on expanded clay.
4. Treat the corners between the walls and the floor with waterproofing mastic or lay a strip of roofing material in this place, so that 500 mm of its width falls on the wall, and 200 mm on the floor. Such protection is recommended to be applied after each layer - it will not allow moisture to penetrate into the underlying layers, which could cause the development of mold and fungus in them.
5. Reinstall and connect the lower part of the drain to the sewer.

The drain consists of two parts, each of which has a flange. The part with the upper flange must be temporarily disconnected, and the lower one, which we will install now, should be covered with tape or plastic wrap so that the solution does not get into it.

Further actions depend on the installation site of the ladder. The ladder ladder (it looks like a long tray) just needs to be installed against the wall and connected to the sewer, having well lubricated the junction with sealant.

Saving sealant is not worth it: the pipe joint, being filled with a screed, will be completely inaccessible, so the likelihood of leakage should be minimized. Moreover, the rubber sealing ring will dry out over time (natural aging of rubber) and will not be able to provide tightness. We remind you that the drain must be equipped with a dry valve, and not with a conventional water seal.

Similarly, you need to do with a point ladder if it is installed in a corner.

If you want to install a point ladder in the middle of the room, you need to calculate its location and installation height.

Location

This item is relevant if the concrete floor is supposed to be pasted over with ceramic tiles. From the point of view of aesthetics, it is important that the ladder is in harmony with such a coating. To do this, you need to calculate its location so that it:

• for small tiles: installed instead of one of the tiles;
• with large tiles: it was installed at the junction of two or four tiles symmetrically with respect to them.

Installation height

Having determined the location, the ladder must be raised to such a height that the pipe connecting it with the sewer has the correct slope. Its value depends on the diameter of this pipe:

• with a diameter of 30 mm: the slope is 1:20 (5 cm per 1 m);
• at 50 mm: 0.02–0.03 (2–3 cm per 1 m).

To set the pipe and ladder to the desired height, you need to put wooden linings or insulation under them.

Good to know: drains are available with adjustable height.

Further actions

The next step is laying the heat insulator. In this case, a material capable of withstanding loads should be used as a heater. The cheapest way is to use expanded clay, but you need to consider that its thermal conductivity is not the lowest. A more effective option is extruded polystyrene foam, which costs a little more.

Granulated polystyrene foam, which in everyday life we ​​call polystyrene, cannot be used, since it will collapse under the influence of a load. Extruded can withstand loads up to 50 t/sq. m. You can recognize it by its structure: it is homogeneous, while granular polystyrene foam consists of many glued granules of different sizes.

The thickness of the insulation should be such that a distance of about 35-40 mm remains from its top to the bottom of the ladder flange. If expanded polystyrene is used, then in its sheets it is necessary to cut grooves for the ladder and sewer pipe.

1. We install a damper tape around the perimeter of the room immediately above the insulation. It will allow the screed to expand freely when heated. Such a tape should be installed both in the steam room and in the washing department, where the floor will be heated by hot water pouring onto it.
2. We lay a cement-sand screed over the heat insulator. It fits under the very flange of the ladder, that is, its thickness is the same 35–40 mm. For reliability, this layer can be reinforced with wire. The solution is smoothed with a rule, after which it is left to mature.
3. We lay the waterproofing: a reliable waterproofing material, for example, roofing material or the Isoplast membrane, is laid over the entire screed with an outlet on the walls, while a hole is cut out in it at the installation site of the ladder, corresponding to the inner diameter of the drain device. Thus, the flange of the ladder is covered with waterproofing.
4. For greater reliability, one or two more fragments of waterproofing material about 1x1 m in size can be laid on top of the ladder, cutting holes in them in the same way. Also in the waterproofing, it is necessary to make small holes above the mounting holes of the flange.
5. We screw the upper part of the ladder into place: first, the sealing ring supplied with the ladder is placed on the flange, then the upper part is installed and screwed tightly with screws. The next step will be to fill the screed again, so the ladder again needs to be covered with a film from the solution.
6. We fill in another layer of screed, forming a slope towards the ladder.

The required slope for the floor is 1 cm per 1 m of length, that is, 1:100. The shape of the surface will depend on the type and location of the drain:

1. If it is a long tray and installed along the wall, the floor is given the appearance of a single inclined plane.
2. If the ladder is point-shaped and stands in a corner, the floor is divided diagonally into two parts and each of them is given the desired slope.
3. When installing a point drain in the center of the room, the floor is divided by diagonals into 4 isosceles triangles with a slope towards the drain.

The slope of the screed is formed using plastic beacons - long rails, in which one of the faces is located at the desired angle. Often such beacons are even included in the ladder kit.

The thickness of the screed is selected so that near the ladder it is below its grate by the thickness of the finish coating.

At the end, lay the finish coat. The concrete floor is quite cold to the touch, so wooden grates are usually laid out on it in the bath. But even in this case, it is worth not limiting yourself to treating the screed with a deep penetration waterproof impregnation, but laying a waterproof coating on it, smooth, but not slippery. Thanks to him, the floor will be much easier to keep clean.

Liquid glass or liquid rubber can be used as a finish, but most often the floor is pasted over with waterproof ceramic tiles with an anti-slip effect. The grout should also be waterproof, and it is highly desirable to add an antifungal additive to both it and the tile adhesive.

The work on laying the tiles should start from the ladder, and if its location was calculated correctly, the tiles near the walls either do not have to be cut at all, or they will be cut at each wall in the same way.

Seams are made with a width of no more than 3 mm, grouting should be done one day after laying the tiles.

Video: installing wooden logs and warming the bath floor

You can often hear from masters: "Water will always find its way." This means that the construction of the floor in the bath, even the simplest, flowing one, must be approached very deliberately. Using our advice, you will be able to build a reliable structure that will serve you for many years.

The manufacturing technology of the floor in the bath is very different from the design in residential premises. This is largely due to high temperature and humidity, which, even with periodic exposure, affect finishing and facing materials. Following the step-by-step guide, you can make the floor in any room of the bath with your own hands.

Floor arrangement in the washing department of the Russian bath

Washroom is a room for taking water procedures, located in front of the steam room. Usually, in order to save space and for convenience, the washing room is combined with a shower room. It can also be installed font, barrel or small bath. In the Russian bath, the washing room is combined with a steam room.

The temperature in the washroom may vary. When cold air enters from the dressing room, it drops, sometimes below 30°C, and when hot steam penetrates from the steam room, it rises to 50–60°C.

This directly affects the method and technology of flooring. It should be well ventilated and dry quickly. Moisture and water retention should not be allowed, but at the same time it is necessary that the underground space is well ventilated without creating strong drafts.

For arranging a steam room, it is best to use one of two types of floor:

1. The flowing one is a wooden plank, located on a supporting lag structure, which, in turn, is fixed on support pillars, a lower crown or a concrete base. For free flow of water, the floorboards are laid in a collapsible way with a small gap of up to 5–6 cm.
2. A non-leaking floor is a monolithic hermetic coating made of wood or concrete with a slight slope. At the lowest point on the plane, a hole is mounted connected to the sewer system, which drains dirty water into the drain pit.

Both types have their advantages and disadvantages. A leaky floor is installed quite quickly, but if not properly insulated, it can cause too low temperatures in the washing room. This is especially noticeable when the bath is small or poorly insulated.

A non-leaking floor has a more complex structure, but allows you to lay a full-fledged heat-insulating layer, which significantly increases comfort and reduces heat loss. But when performing repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the front layer, while for the leaking one you will need to remove only part of the floorboards.

What material can be used

For the manufacture of the floor in the washing room, wooden boards, concrete, insulating materials, plastic or metal pipes, galvanized fasteners, etc. are used. The total amount of materials required directly depends on the chosen floor design and its installation.

In the bath, you can make a leaking poured monolithic concrete floor with a tile or boardwalk lining. This design is only suitable if the building was built on a strip foundation. If piles were used, then it is recommended to lay galvanized steel with a crate.

To make a monolithic floor in a washing room, you will need:

• fine-grained sand and expanded clay;
• bituminous mastic;
• roofing felt and polyethylene film;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• waterproofing material with a reflective layer (when using a warm floor);
• steel mesh for reinforcement;
• metallic profile;
• cement-sand mixture;
• porcelain tiles or planed wooden board;
• siphon and plastic pipe.

The described design may include laying a system of underfloor heating, which allows you to maintain a constant temperature in the washing room. This will also affect the performance of the coating - moisture will evaporate faster without penetrating into the seams between tiles or boards.

Video: what material to lay on the floor in the bath

Calculation of the amount of materials for the washing room

The size of the washing room depends on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath, so in each case it will be necessary to calculate the materials according to individual parameters. In order to understand how to do this, the calculation of the material for a 3x4 m room is given as an example. The floor is usually located at a height of 50 cm from the ground level.

To install the floor you will need:

1. Fine-grained sand. It will be used as a backfill on the ground. The layer thickness is 10–15 cm. The total volume of sand is: V=(3×4)x0.15
   \u003d 1.8 m 3.
2. Expanded clay is used for filling in front of heat-insulating material. Layer thickness 25–40 cm. Total volume of material: V=(3×4)x0.4=4.8 m 3 .
3. Extruded polystyrene foam is a heat-insulating material laid on top of the expanded clay cushion. Layer thickness 50–100 mm. When buying polystyrene foam from the Penoplex company, 3 packs of insulation will be required to insulate a floor with an area of ​​​​12 m 2.
4. Cement-sand mixture. It can be bought ready-made or made by hand. The first option is recommended. The thickness of the poured layer is 7–12 cm. The consumption of the mixture with a layer thickness of 1 cm is indicated on the bag with the dry mixture. For example, when buying polygran sand concrete, the consumption is 18 kg / m 2. To fill the floor with a thickness of 1 cm, you will need: V \u003d (3 × 4)x18 \u003d 216 kg. For 7 cm layer: V=216×7=1512 kg, or 84 bags.
5. Reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the cement-sand layer. The optimal cell size is 50×50 mm. The total coverage area is 12 m 2 .
6. Roofing felt is used to isolate expanded clay filling from a sand cushion and soil. The total amount is 12 m 2. It is better to purchase roofing material made in accordance with GOST with a density of 350 ± 25g / m 2.
7. Polyethylene film is used to insulate the gravel pad. The total amount is 12 m 2. Optimum density - 150 microns.
8. A metal profile will be required for the manufacture of beacons for leveling the screed. If the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe washing room is 12 m 2, then approximately 25 m of the profile will be required.
9. Siphon and drain pipe. Usually, it is brought to the center or far wall in the washroom. With this in mind, 4–5 m of a polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 25–32 mm will be required. For installation of a turn, an elbow made of a similar material is required.

The flooring is selected individually, taking into account the requirements of the owner. If you plan to lay tiles, then it must have anti-slip properties. For example, porcelain stoneware 30 × 30 cm in size is suitable for washing. One package is designed to cover 1.30–1.5 m 2 of the floor. Therefore, for a room of 12 m 2, 8–10 packages are required.

If it is planned to lay a wooden floor, then it is better to use a grooved larch floorboard with a thickness of 20 mm or more as floorboards. It is desirable that the material has already been dried to natural moisture.

Necessary tool for mounting the structure

For the arrangement and manufacture of the floor you will need:

• shovel;
• concrete mixer;
• water tank;
• container for concrete mix;
• metal rule;
• bubble level;
• construction knife;
• paint brush.

In addition to the basic tools, for laying porcelain tiles you will need:

• manual rail tile cutter;
• putty knife;
• mallet;
• container for tile adhesive.

When laying a grooved board, use:

• jigsaw;
• a hammer;
• galvanized screws or nails.

How to make a concrete warm floor with tiling in a sauna

Before installing the floor, you need to clean the soil inside the foundation from construction debris, branches, leaves, etc. If the inside of the bearing blocks is very damp, then you should wait for them to partially dry.

The sequence of actions when installing a monolithic floor in a washing room is as follows:

1. The surface of the soil must be carefully leveled, compacted, and large stones, if any, removed. The inner surface of the strip foundation is treated with bituminous mastic in 1-2 layers.
2. At this stage, you need to consider entering the drain pipe through the strip foundation. For example, a hole is made in a concrete block with a puncher, into which a piece of steel pipe is mounted. Through this jumper, a polypropylene pipe will be inserted under the floor structure.
3. The drain must be carefully mounted in the place where the corresponding hole will be located. A plastic plug must be put on the end of the pipe so that sand, expanded clay or concrete mixture does not get inside.
4. It is necessary to pour fine-grained sand on the surface of the soil, carefully compact it. The layer thickness is 10–15 cm. If the sand is too dry, then after leveling the surface is slightly moistened. This will help to tamp the pillow more quickly and efficiently.
5. Now you need to lay the roofing material on the inner surface of the foundation with an overlap of 18–20 cm. When laying rows, it is recommended to leave an overlap of 13–15 cm. For a more rigid fixation, the edge of the web is smeared with bituminous mastic. If necessary, the roofing material is attached to the surface of the foundation.
6. Next, you need to lay out a layer of expanded clay up to 40 cm thick. After backfilling and leveling this material, 6–8 cm should remain to the upper edge of the foundation.
7. It is recommended to cover the expanded clay pillow with a polyethylene film 150–200 microns thick. The joints are covered with paper adhesive tape. After that, a heat-insulating material up to 10 cm thick is laid on the polyethylene.
8. Now you can install beacons to distribute the concrete mixture over the surface. The step between the guides is 60–100 cm. A cement-sand mixture is used to install the beacons. In the manufacture of guides on cement, a reinforcing mesh is laid so that it is located between the insulation and beacons.
9. When installing beacons, it is necessary to ensure that a slight slope is formed towards the drain hole. To do this, each guide is checked by level.
10. At the bottom of the wall along the perimeter of the washing room, you need to glue the damper tape. The processing height is 10–15 cm. After the concrete has dried, the protruding excess of the tape can be cut off.
11. Now you need to fill the screed. It is recommended to prepare the mixture for this in a concrete mixer.

The concrete screed gains full strength in 25–28 days. After 3–5 days, you can carefully dismantle the guides and fill in the voids that have formed. In the process of drying, especially in the first week, the screed should be moistened with water 2-3 times a day. Flooring can be laid no earlier than after 25 days.

Video: do-it-yourself drain in the bath (step by step instructions)

How to treat a pouring wooden floor

The composition is applied with a paint brush on a cleaned and dry surface, which has previously been sanded. It is also recommended to disinfect.

The interior of the washing room can be dried (use a special substance based on vegetable oils that forms a film coating). This material perfectly protects wood from the negative effects of high temperature and moisture.

The room where the sink is located can simply be painted, but it is recommended to use only special water-repellent compounds.

With frequent use of the bath, it is necessary to carry out periodic impregnation of wooden surfaces (once every six months), since this coating tends to wash out. The average cost of semi-matte varnish for baths and saunas varies from 550 to 800 rubles per 1 liter.

Do-it-yourself steam room flooring: a step-by-step guide

The steam room is the central room in the bath. The air temperature in it can reach 70°C with a humidity of 80%. In a Finnish sauna, the air is 10–20°C hotter, but the humidity is noticeably lower.

The requirements for the floor structure in the steam room and washroom are almost the same. Water and condensed moisture must be freely removed from the surface, while it is necessary that heat is retained, and the lining has anti-slip properties.

According to the type of arrangement, the floor in the steam room is also divided into two types: leaking and non-leaking.

The best option for baths on a pile foundation would be the construction of an insulated leaking floor with a plank or grating flooring. The most common device scheme for such a floor will consist of:

1. Floor beams.
2. Skull bar.
3. Boardwalk subfloor.
4. Pit for the formation of a drain hole;
5. Drainage polypropylene pipe.
6. Water ladder.
7. Expanded clay thermal insulation pad.
8. Reinforced concrete screed.
9. Plank grating.
10. Waterproofing with an overlap on load-bearing walls.

When installing the floor, you can use expanded clay filling and concrete screed. This is a laborious process that requires certain skills in working with a cement mixture.

Expanded clay can be replaced with conventional mineral insulation, and instead of a screed, put a sheet of galvanized steel.

Material selection and calculation

The size of the steam room directly affects the amount of material required. Therefore, as an example, a calculation is given for arranging a floor in a 3 × 3 m room.

To make a leaky floor you will need:

A polypropylene pipe, a drainage elbow and a ladder are purchased taking into account the location of the drain hole. To organize a drain in the middle of the room, you will need to lay a pipe, put on a swivel elbow at an angle of 90 ° C, and make an extension to drain the drain flush with the floor surface.

Floor making tool

You will need the following tool:

• electric jigsaw or wood saw;
• construction knife;
• metal scissors;
• screwdriver;
• electric planer;
• a hammer;
• square;
• chisel.

How to lay the floor in a frame bath on a pile foundation

Before you arrange the floor, you will need to carefully examine the lower crown and the supporting beams. If there is any damage or signs of decay, then this element requires partial or complete replacement.

The manufacturing technology of the pouring floor in the steam room consists of the following:

1. At the bottom of the bearing beams cut into the crown, draft bars are attached. To fix the elements, galvanized nails 60–70 mm long are used. Mounting step - 50 cm.
2. A rough flooring made of edged boards is laid on the supporting bars. To do this, it is sawn off with a size corresponding to the width of the opening between the beams. Fasteners are not used during installation. A hole is cut in the draft flooring for the entry of a drain pipe.
3. After laying the flooring, the floor surface is covered with roofing material with an overlap on the wall of 15–20 cm and an overlap of 10 cm with each other. The joint seam is smeared with bituminous mastic.
4. The space between the lags is filled with heat-insulating material. Most often, basalt wool is used in rolls, but expanded clay pillow can also be made.
5. The flooring of the guides is carried out from a bar or a thick board. To do this, the material is laid in such a way that a slope is formed, for which you can use linings under the timber at the base.
6. The guides are attached directly to the support joists using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws 50–80 mm long. After that, the space between them is filled with basalt wool.
7. A galvanized sheet is laid on top of the guides with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the wall. Only special self-tapping screws with a flat head are used for fastening. The step of fastening along the wall is 15–20 cm, along the guides - 20–30 cm. After laying, a small hole is carefully made in the center of the sheet to drain the water.
8. The support beams are fastened under the plank pouring floor. To do this, a bar with a section of 70 × 70 mm is attached to the wall using a “L”-shaped galvanized corner with a step of 70–100 cm. Floorboards from a polished board are laid on top of the beams (it is better to use larch). The distance between them should be 3-5 mm.

Galvanized sheet is used infrequently, but this is a pretty good solution that allows you to unload the load-bearing floor structure. If the bath is erected on a strip foundation or is settled in the basement of the house, then it is better to give preference to a grate with further pouring of a concrete screed.

Video: how to make a plank floor with a slope in a larch steam room

How to prevent rotting logs and floorboards

To treat the floor in the steam room, a heat-resistant (withstands up to 120 ° C) water-based varnish is used. This is an elastic coating that protects the wood from the penetration of moisture, vapors and dirt.

The composition is applied to the prepared floor covering with a paint brush in 2 layers. Application is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5–30°C. When arranging a flowing floor, processing should begin after laying the load-bearing log. Only after the composition has dried (2-3 hours should pass), you can proceed to laying the floor covering and impregnating it.

This composition is not suitable for processing furniture in the steam room. Benches, stools, chairs must not be covered with it.

The average consumption of the mixture is 18 m 2 /l.

Installation of the floor in the bath is a technologically complex and time-consuming process, largely depending on the individual characteristics of the structure, its dimensions and the type of bearing base. Before performing this work, it is recommended to draw up a diagram where you want to designate its main elements and components. This will allow you to more accurately think over the flooring technology specifically for the parameters of your bath.