Laying sewer pipes in a private house with your own hands. An overview of the nuances of connecting a private house to a central sewer

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Of course, it is best if the wiring of the sewerage in a private house with your own hands is carried out simultaneously with the laying of the foundation, even before the construction of the building box. Of course, this requires preliminary design and layout, but in this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation tape and dismantling the flooring.

But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Sewer pipeline installation

Five essential requirements

First, I want to list five basic requirements for you, without which not a single sewer pipe layout in a private house can do. But I will do it briefly to focus your attention on further installation instructions.

1. In any case, wherever you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to observe a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to the storage or flow tank - the quality of the drain depends on the correct slope. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again prerequisites for blockage will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
2. If this is a sewerage wiring in an apartment, then short sections of the pipeline are obtained there, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on the site exceeds 10 m, revision wells should be equipped there.
3. When laying a sewer system in a private house (meaning underground installation), certain distances to objects and structures should be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
4. In order to avoid freezing of the system in winter, the laying of the pipeline should be carried out at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
5. Pipe laying should be done only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects the PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.

Sewer wiring in the room

First of all, it should be firmly understood that the sewerage wiring diagram in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in its principle. In 99%, the toilet drain will always be the most extreme point - this is a 110-mm pipe, where all the other bathrooms are already inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the upper diagram.

In any case, a 110 pipe is used at the exit from the room, whether it be a riser or a deck chair, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other sewage systems are connected there.

Of course, the slope is also important in the room - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drain is forced - there is even a counter-slope, if required by the features of the room.

In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main sewage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you'd better use the table that I give below.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

For joining pipes to each other, turns and transitions to a different diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, everything, even the most complex interchanges, is carried out. Basically, there is a sewerage distribution in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is concentrated, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.

A washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons are produced with a special outlet, as shown in the top photo.

By and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such a branch, but I personally prefer to make a drain with a 32 mm pipe for this, cutting it into a 50 mm pipe through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.

The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets - they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room that does not have to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.

If you need to hide the pipes, then there are certain inconveniences. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal tape hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.

It happens that during assembly one pipe enters the socket of the other very tightly, while crushing the sealing rubber ring - this usually happens when elements from different manufacturers are connected.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring with liquid dishwashing detergent and all problems are left behind.

Underground installation of the pipeline on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia

As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions of Russia is very different from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the site above sea level and the condition or type of soil.

Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the depth of freezing. That is, simply to find out from neighbors or acquaintances at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best orientation.

As I said, the instructions for burying the pipeline are sometimes too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is mounted at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene or mineral wool can be used for this.

There are also special heaters that are made in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal section for installation.

I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although of high quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the cotton wool with a nylon thread, and then cover it all with roofing material, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.

Only wool is needed here either basalt or glass - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.

You will nullify everything if, after insulating the track, you leave revision wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will get bare areas that will be. For their insulation, you can also use mineral wool or polystyrene, but it is much cheaper to do it with expanded clay, but it also needs waterproofing - just cover the pit with roofing material.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewers

In the third paragraph of the heading about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between sewers and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to clearly adhere to such provisions, or your “friendly” neighbors may unreasonably assert this.

Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and outlets of the internal sewerage - this will solve such problems.

Laying stages: 1 - pour the pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - close it with sand

And now I will tell you how the process of laying the pipeline into the trench with your own hands to the storage or flow tank takes place - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to fill in a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm and plan it in accordance with the required slope (on the 110th pipe 18-20 mm / linear m).

Then you lay the highway itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the layer thickness above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.

Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the volatility of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I pour plenty of water on the sand, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour the soil.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to add that you may need to insulate the pipeline not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not cancel the sand cushion. But if you have any questions about this topic - ask them in the comments.

July 7, 2016

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The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of functioning, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the development of the project. The graphic part of the project documentation, in accordance with which the sewerage system is installed in a private house with your own hands - the layout of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information on regulatory requirements and the main problems of drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for choosing sewer equipment and the features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

• TCP 45-4.01-51-2007"Water supply and sewerage systems of manor houses";
• SanPiN 42-128-4690-88"Sanitary rules for the maintenance of territories of populated areas";
• SanPiN 4630"Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution";
• SNiP 30-02-97"Planning and development of territories of horticultural associations of citizens, buildings and structures."

When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Sumps and cesspools should not be located closer than 4 m to the border of the neighboring plot and 15 m to drinking water.

The scheme should describe the mechanism for connecting the internal and external sewage, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part should be linked to the plan of the house and the backyard, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Affecting Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water consumption, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

• The magnitude of the volley discharge- peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, falls on the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
• Performance of treatment facilities. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for the disposal of treated wastewater is selected:

1. up to 5 m 3 / day - discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
2. up to 0.3 m 3 / day - periodic removal by a special vehicle is allowed;
3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by their quantity, but also by the degree of treatment in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

• M material for the manufacture of sewage treatment plants:, fiberglass, metal, various polymers (, polyethylene). The design of the structure, the method of installation, further maintenance and operation depend on the technical characteristics of the material;
• Power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment facilities are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
• Building site topology- terrain, slope direction, proximity to water bodies and the presence of potential places for discharge of treated sewage water;
• Geodesy of the construction site- the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost of installation work, the need for additional or the purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle depend on these factors.

Varieties of sewer facilities and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment facilities are allowed for the arrangement and laying of sewers in a private house:

• septic tank;
• filter well;
• underground filtration field;
• filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed facilities should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which performs primary rough cleaning.

septic tank

The most common, when arranging a sewer for a private house with your own hands, are two types of septic tanks:

Cumulative - are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to sources / wells of drinking water. A significant disadvantage is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewage services.

With soil cleaning. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or falls by gravity into the filtration facilities, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, they seep into the ground.

Filter well

Effluent entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and seeps through it to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

1. pipe;
2. Plate chipper;
3. Pipe for the flow of waste.

For arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. excessive soil pollution. As a material for making walls, it is often used (with holes in the masonry), large-diameter plastic or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

On the site lay with perforated walls. Through them, runoff is distributed over a large drainage area and soaked into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel pack. This method is associated with a significant amount of earthwork. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

• Gravel filter thickness - 20÷50 cm;
• Diameter of perforated pipes - 20÷50 cm;
• The distance from the soil surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5 ÷ 25 m / day - 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25 ÷ 100 m / day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75 ÷ 300 m / day - a distance reduction of up to 2 m is allowed.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is mandatory to install a 100 mm diameter, at least 70 cm high above the soil surface.

filter trench

The filter trench performs the same functions as the underground filtration field, collecting wastewater after a septic tank, their additional treatment and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep water table, since the trench must also have a significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and the depth of the trench is calculated according to the same methodology used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is taken according to the standard of 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8 ÷ 1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to arrange from 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

STP scheme components

The most effective for a private house are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers, divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed by hand and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. In everyday life, do not use overly aggressive chemicals that can destroy bacteria. The unit must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, the pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned with a car vacuum cleaner;
2. In the second section (aerotank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen by aeration. This is where the active phase of cleaning takes place by biodegradation by bacteria;
3. In the third section - a sump, activated sludge is settled;
4. From the fourth section, where water enters with the help of a jet pump from the secondary clarifier, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or a drainage pump.

Internal sewerage device in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The composition of the internal sewerage includes the following elements;

• Plumbing fixtures:,;
• Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
• Branch lines;
• Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When laying sewers in a private house, the normative indicators of the slope are often neglected, making it "by eye", significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water, they accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house of pipes

Diameter, mm	Optimal slope	Minimum allowable slope
50	0,035	0,025
100	0,02	0,012
150	0,01	0,007
200	0,008	0,003

Connection to the riser of branch pipelines is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms is allowed to be carried out in an open way. Fastening is carried out with special couplings with dowels, or pipes are located on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewer pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, ducts, under the floor. For maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and drainage sewer lines are equipped with revisions in accordance with the standards:

• Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
• Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
• At the bends of the pipeline (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
• On leprous horizontal areas every 8 m.

Video of arranging a sewer in a private house with your own hands, the correct laying of pipes with a slope:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal material for pipes for sewerage of a private house are polymers. Products made from them are lightweight and can be installed by hand without the involvement of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long-term training and special skills. The exemplary material is not subject to corrosion and aggressive effects of household chemicals, it has a long service life. For the sewerage of a private house, the following polymers are most often used:

• PVP (high density polyethylene)- Affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°С;
• PP()– has good performance, maximum operating temperature +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, has a rather high cost;
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- material with the best combination of cost and quality. It can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical impacts of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term operation, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common way to install a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

• The bell and the smooth end are cleared of pollution;
• A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
• Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or ordinary liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a marker is made on the smooth part of the pipe, after which it is pulled 1 cm out of the socket.

Do-it-yourself stages of work on sewerage in a private house

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, the volume and performance of the septic tank;
2. Determination of the location of the septic tank on the plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
3. The device of the internal sewer network;
4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
5. Laying of the pipeline and connections of external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of the volume of a septic tank

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

Type of housing and type of life	Consumption, l / day for 1 person
Residential building equipped with plumbing and sewerage system without bath	125÷160
Residential building equipped with plumbing and sewerage system with bathroom and local	160÷230
Residential building equipped with a sewerage system and a centralized hot water supply system	230÷350
Taking a shower (average 15 min)	150
Use of the toilet	8
Usage	40÷70
Usage	15

The calculation formula looks like this:

V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , where

V - the volume of the septic tank in m 3;

n – number of permanent residents;

Q - average water consumption per person in m 3;

3 - the number of days of the complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP).

For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, a family of 4 will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To facilitate calculations, we have developed a handy calculator especially for our readers.

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 m 2 of the filter surface of the well:

Composition of the filtrate	The maximum volume of sewage to be cleaned, m 3 / day per 1 m 2 of the filtering surface
	For year-round operation of a private residential building	During seasonal operation of a country house
gravel, crushed stone	0.15÷0.20	0.18÷0.24
coarse sand	0.10÷0.15	0.12÷0.18
	0.05÷0.10	0.06÷0.12

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 linear meter of the pipeline of the underground filtration field:

Composition of the filtrate	The maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 / day per 1 m linear drainage pipeline
	Up to 500	500÷600	Over 600
Gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand	0.012÷0.025	0.0096÷0.0225	0.0084÷0.02
Fine sand, sandy loam	0.006÷0.020	0.0048÷0.18	0.0042÷0.016

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 linear meter of the filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close as possible to each other, this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewerage system of a private house with your own hands, the following factors must be considered:

• it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
• It is recommended that other plumbing fixtures be connected to the sewer network above the toilet connection level, this will exclude the possibility of fecal masses entering the outlet lines;
• Piping must be rotated using several angled elbows. For example, two 45° or three 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
• The sewer riser is necessarily displayed on the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer inside;
• The maximum distance for connecting plumbing fixtures to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and the toilet bowl 1 m.

Installation and equipment of the sewage tank

For the installation of a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit breaks out with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion about 10 cm thick is arranged. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in the pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have a rather significant weight. In most cases, fasteners are provided on the case. After installation, the container must be leveled. Neck extensions may be required depending on the design.

Article

Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of work.

sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:

1. Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

1. Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. The optimal choice is a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but high cost acts as a limiting factor.

1. Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
2. Room selection. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it near the outer wall, on the side of the house where the tank will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

1. Advance planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.

If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewer

An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic. The optimal solution for an autonomous sewer system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". Plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for external sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe thermal insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated premises (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

• gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
• cement mortar;
• sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
• revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

outdoor work

Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:

• outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
• domestic- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.

The most effective design for autonomous sewerage of a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

1. settling. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and the mineralization of residues.

1. overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
2. Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where

• V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
• n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
• Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
• 3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:

V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Foundation preparation. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well.
	Installation of containers. We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump tight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bituminous mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete.
	Overflow design. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Cover and necklines. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately brought out necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is desirable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation in progress
	Digging and preparing trenches. Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram.
	Pipe laying. In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. The optimal pipe diameter for the outer part of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm.
	Pipe insulation. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.
	Entering a septic tank. We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole.
	Entering the house. The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated.

After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make sewer wiring

Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:

1. Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the circuits together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
2. fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the roof level.

Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

1. Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
2. supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.

1. Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.

Stage 5. Pipe connection

All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :

Illustration	Mounting operation
	Pipe cutting. Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size.
	Chamfer removal. We clean the trimming place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause blockage.
	Trumpet preparation. We insert a rubber sealing ring into the socket. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases.
	Pipe connection. We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures

At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:

1. Toilet bowl- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.

1. Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

1. Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
2. Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, it is necessary to install a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing cuff.

Conclusion

The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.

July 17, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Perhaps someone has already encountered, and someone just has to lay sewer pipes in a private house. In any case, you can get acquainted with five very important conditions for high-quality and long operation, which are sometimes overlooked.

Failure to comply with these requirements may well be called errors, but some of them can be changed on a live pipeline. I'll tell you about it, so get comfortable, let's start.

Conditions and installation of sewerage

5 requirements that are sometimes forgotten

I suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the important conditions for laying pipelines, so that, when considering installation, they are implied by us “by default”:

1. As the instructions from SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85 indicate, each sewer pipeline, if there is no forced flow, must be mounted under a slope. This angle is regulated by the same rules, depending on the diameter of the pipe, but not on the location of its laying.
2. Any sewer can become clogged from time to time, but in long stretches such a blockage may be inaccessible to clearing. Therefore, for the purpose of preventive maintenance of communications at a certain distance, revisions are inserted (for premises) or revision wells (for the street) are equipped.
3. When installing sewer pipelines, septic tanks and storage tanks, certain distances to other objects and structures should be maintained. This precaution minimizes the harm that can be caused by a leak or burst.
4. To prevent freezing of pipes, they are laid below the freezing level of the soil, or at the level of the zero point. A unified system of these parameters does not exist even by region, since here the binding to the terrain and type of soil is of decisive importance.
5. At home, a sand pillow is often neglected, but this can not even be regarded as negligence, but as a serious mistake. Sand protects the pipeline from sharp stones and metal fragments, does not lead to displacement during soil subsidence, and is partially a heater.

Installation of the pipeline on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia

Now let's figure out how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and I advise you to start with the external laying of the pipeline (from the house to the end point).

The thing is that later it will be easier for you to focus on the depth of exit through the foundation, that is, you will need to calculate the internal one in order to reach a point of a certain depth. I set such priorities due to the fact that in the room the depth of communications does not matter.

As you can see from the table, the average depth of soil freezing in a particular region can be quite large and it will be difficult for you to equip the pipeline at this level. Therefore, in order to avoid freezing, you can resort to insulation using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

In addition, there are ready-made shells for a certain pipe diameter. However, the price of a shell made of polystyrene or mineral wool is quite high, especially if there is a foil coating, so I would recommend wrapping communications manually.

If you don’t know what the depth of soil freezing is in your area, then you can follow the path of experience already gained, that is, find out about the depth of pipe laying from your nearest neighbors.
In such cases, a good indicator is the installation of a water supply system, and if it does not freeze, it means that sewage can also be equipped according to the same technical conditions.

For manually insulating pipes, it is best for you to use basalt wool (adjust the thickness yourself - it depends on local needs). Slag wool should not be used for this purpose - it contains pieces of iron ore, which rusts.

From this, cotton wool gives a drawdown, which leads to an increase in thermal conductivity. It is best to fix cotton wool with nylon threads, and then wrap it with roofing material, as in the top photo, or with dense polyethylene, fixing it with wire or the same threads. But still, scotch proved to be the best in this matter.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewers

Decide on the route along which you will lay this communication - also consider the possibility of arranging revision wells, if any. By the way, you may have problems with neighbors who do not like the location of your septic tank or cesspool.

And here there is a way out - you can call representatives of the BTI before the start of work, who will issue the appropriate permit. The presence of such a document will save you from having to explain yourself to "friendly" neighbors.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

Now you can dig a trench with an approximate slope, depending on the diameter of the pipeline that you will be laying - use the table above for this. Most often for the private sector, if there is no centralized sewage system, a diameter of 100 mm is used - this is quite enough.

But in some cases, when several yards are combined to drain waste into one septic tank or cesspool, the pipe cross section may increase, but you will not use more than 200 mm.

Sewer installation: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - we lay the pipe; 3 - fill it with sand

At the bottom of the trench, you fill up a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 20-30 mm and with its help you already level the slope you need. The final angle is already set when assembling and laying the pipeline itself - you just add or remove sand in the right places. After laying, you need to fill the pipes with sand, tamp it, and only after that pour the previously excavated soil (I already mentioned this above).

Since the technology of laying sewer pipes in the ground requires immobility of the soil, compacted sand is needed for this purpose.
However, it is rather difficult to tamp a shaky mass, and for this purpose I simply pour plenty of water on it - shrinkage occurs within half an hour, after which it is possible to fill the trench with soil.

In the absence of a centralized sewerage system, you will need to install some kind of storage or flow-type tank, that is, a cesspool or septic tank. For this, concrete, metal and plastic tanks are used, although, in the case of a cesspool, there may not be a separate tank at all, although this is not very hygienic.

But I won’t talk about the installation of such treatment or storage facilities now, since this is already a topic for a separate article.

When laying underground sewer communications, avoid using right angle bends - with such a configuration of the route, the possibility of blockage increases dramatically.
If you still cannot do without it, then you can combine the turn using two 45⁰ fittings.

Installation in the house

The layout of sewer pipes in the room directly depends on the location of plumbing units in the house. For example, you may have two toilets or an additional sink (sink) on the second floor, then you can not do without a riser. However, be sure to respect the slope you saw in the table above.

There is no 32 mm pipe, but they are used for a washing machine or dishwasher where the drain is forced, so there is even a counter-slope (if the specifications require it).

Crosses 100×50 mm of various configurations

In any case, the extreme point is the toilet, as it is connected to the socket of the fan tee or the outlet of the hundredth pipe going outside (to the riser or lounger). All other appliances require a 50 mm pipe, which is connected to a 100x50 mm fitting.

It can be a tee or a cross with different angles and diameters of the branches. Similar fittings exist for interchanges of any complexity - these are different couplings, angles, tees and crosses of either the same or different diameters.

Rubber reduction 50×32 mm

But there are no plastic reductions with a 32 mm outlet, therefore, a rubber reduction is used to connect the 50th and 32nd pipes - it is quite reliable for low and medium pressure pipelines. The same reductions (50×40 mm and 50×25 mm) are used to connect sink, sink, bath and shower siphons.

In each socket, whether it is a pipe, a branch or a reduction, there must be a sealing rubber two-lobed ring, which ensures the tightness of the connection. Such seals do not need to be purchased separately - they are sold complete with equipment.

If you purchased pipes and fittings from different manufacturers (although this is not even necessary), then you will have difficulty connecting.
The o-ring will create an obstacle, and with more force, it may bite.

7034 0 0

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To divert wastewater to the general sewer, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows the sewerage system to operate for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at low temperatures, so that cracks and destruction of pipes can not be feared.

• The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, standing upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed with cement mortar for its entire thickness;

In a wooden floor, mounting foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to seal pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the top points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of the house sewerage should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at corners;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewage system is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the dwelling, cover it with a box of drywall or wall panels. It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2-4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system that is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, remember to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inside of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble the joints on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewerage sites is often practiced. So, in the Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in the warm climate zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces untargeted heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

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