With the development of technology, it has become difficult to determine whether the fabric in front of us is natural or not. Now, for example, it is difficult to find products made of natural wool, in which there would be no other fibers.
Many people know about wool only that it is a fabric of natural origin that retains heat well. Basically, wool of sheep, camels and goats is used for its production.
Almost all wool is resistant to dirt and does not wrinkle. Various odors, such as smoke, food or sweat, are well vented from this fabric. It does not absorb moisture, but absorbs water in the form of steam. It is because of this that the product dries slowly. Woolen fabric retains heat well, and falls off during wear, and therefore becomes even warmer, as well as windproof.
Wool can be used for sewing suits, sweaters, dresses, coats. Depending on the product for which it is planned to use the material, wool fibers are divided into:
Archaeologists claim that wool was used 1500 BC. It was then that people were able to tame goats and sheep and use their hair to make woolen fabric. Wool was especially popular in ancient Rome.
In the middle of the century, wool began to be traded, and in the 13th century, the economy of a country like Italy began to depend on its production. A little later, England also began to produce woolen linen, where the profit from the manufacture and sale of wool became an essential part of the budget. The first English factory was located in Winchester. For the illegal production of wool, many were punished by cutting off their hands.
In 1966 wool production was reduced due to low demand for fabric. But ten years later, in connection with the invention of technology that made it possible to wash woolen products, interest in the fabric returned.
Today, there are several main wool producers in the world, these include:
Wool production technology includes four stages. First, shearing, then ranking and sorting, the next step is to create yarn, and the final step is to make the fabric itself.
Sheep are sheared once a year, at the beginning of spring or summer. The best wool is the one that is sheared from the sides and shoulders. Sheared wool can only be called that which is sheared from a healthy and living animal. This type is marked with a "woolen label" established by the International Wool Commission.
The sorting and ranking stage consists of the removal of dirty, damaged and low-grade wool, as well as the selection of raw materials for the quality of the fibers.
The wool is then treated with a special detergent. This is done in order to remove the yellowness and impurities from the dirt and sand. When the fibers dry, they are combed out with rollers that have fine teeth. The fibers untangled by the teeth are aligned into a sheet, which is called a net. Later, this network is knitted into ropes, they are called silver.
Wool can be dyed at any stage of manufacture, and at any stage the fibers may be subjected to various influences that will give them the desired look and structure.
In order to give the wool fibers strength and density, they go through the process of rolling. It involves soaking wool in water and then passing it through rollers.
How wool is made
In the modern world, wool is used to make products such as:
Wash items made of woolen fabric using products intended for wool, and only by hand. The temperature in this case should not exceed 30 degrees, and when washing, woolen products should not be twisted and rubbed.
Dry woolen items on a flat surface away from radiators and direct sunlight. It is necessary to iron products in the wool mode or with the humidification function.
If in the process of wearing some areas of clothing that are subjected to friction or pressure become glossy, then the defect can be eliminated by steaming. After that, the product can be cleaned with a stiff brush with table salt or river sand.
Recently, real wool products have become less and less on the market, because it is cheaper for manufacturers to add additional synthetic materials to the wool. But this does not mean that woolen things have lost their relevance. In winter, they are indispensable due to their versatility, breathability, elasticity and wear resistance.
And you, of course, recognized this man in a sweater :)
What do I do when I'm cold? Guessed!!! I dress warmly. Woolen sweater, woolen socks, downy handkerchief and hot tea with honey.And why do knitted woolen products keep us warm in winter?
And because wool has the highest heat-shielding properties.
This magical effect occurs, thanks to the composition of the wool fiber, to bind heat and store it between the fibers.
There is no other fiber like it in nature.
The main mass of wool (95-97%) for the wool of processing enterprises is given by sheep.
According to the composition of the fibers, wool is homogeneous (thin, semi-fine, semi-coarse and coarse)
and heterogeneous (semi-rough and rough).
Wool uniformity is determined by fineness, crimp and length. And it is characterized by the content of fluff, transitional hair, awn and dead hair in it.
According to the fineness (thickness), wool is divided into four groups.
Thin: fine down fibers with uniform crimp - high quality.
Fine wool consists of fine fibers of fluff (from 14 to 25 microns) with a uniform fine crimp
30-80 mm long and is characterized by the properties inherent in downy fibers.
It is used to produce high quality knitwear and fabrics.
Semi-thin:
coarse down or transitional hair. Or a mixture of them.
Semi-fine wool is characterized by a fineness of 25 to 34 microns and a length of 40-150 mm.
It consists of coarse down, transitional hair, or a mixture thereof;
used to make the thinnest woolen knitwear and
thin suit and dress fabrics.
semi-rough:
down, transitional hair and a little thin awn - less high quality.
Semi-coarse wool has a fineness of 34 to 40 microns and a length of 50-200 mm.
It consists of fluff, transitional hair and a small amount of thin awn,
used to produce lower quality knitwear and fabrics.
rough:
fluff, transitional hair, awn and dead hair - low quality.
Coarse wool is characterized by a fineness of 40 to 67 microns and a length of 10-250 mm.
It consists of fluff, transitional hair, awn and dead hair.
This is the lowest quality wool, used mainly for making
coarse fabrics.
Scaly (cuticle) - the outer layer, consists of separate scales, protects the body of the hair from destruction. The degree of luster of the fiber and its ability to felt (roll, fall off) depend on the type of scales and their location.
The scaly layer of the fiber consists of the thinnest horn-shaped plates (scales) that form the outer cover of the fiber.
The scaly layer is characterized by high mechanical strength and chemical resistance, protects the inner layers of the fiber from atmospheric and mechanical influences. It imparts a number of valuable properties to wool fibers. So, the scales increase the tenacity of the fibers, resulting in a more durable yarn.
The felting of the wool fiber is also determined by the presence of a scaly layer.
There is a significant amount of air between the scales, so wool fibers are less thermally conductive.
The size, shape and nature of the relative position of the scales depend on the type of wool (fine and coarse) and affect many of the technological and operational properties of the fiber.
Cortical - the main layer, forms the body of the hair, determines its quality.
The cortical layer is located directly under the scaly, forms the main body and determines the main properties of the fiber. The cells of the cortical layer have numerous boundaries, which corresponds to the idea of a cell as a three-dimensional polyhedron.
Medullary - located in the center of the fiber, consists of cells filled with air.
The core layer is located in the center of the fiber and consists of cells of various shapes, between which there is air. The presence of a core layer is a sign of a coarse fiber with a reduced tensile strength. The dimensions of the core layer are not the same for different fibers and vary widely.
Depending on the ratio of individual layers, wool fibers are divided into 4 types:
fluff - very thin, soft, crimped fiber, in which the core layer is absent.
Down - the thinnest (15-30 microns), soft and durable fibers of a round shape
in cross section, with fine tortuosity, consist of two layers:
scaly and cortical. The scales of the fluff are ring-shaped, they cover the fiber around the entire circumference, find one on top of the other, creating a rough surface. Thanks to this, the fluff has a soft sheen and the best roll.
ost - thick, rigid fiber with a significant core layer.
Awn - thick (50-90 microns), almost straight coarse fibers with an irregular oval shape in cross section, consisting of three layers: scaly, cortical and core.
The scales near the awn are non-ring-shaped, most closely adhering to the cortical layer, causing a strong shine and less roll. The core layer of the spine occupies from 1/3 to 2/3 of the fiber thickness.
As a result, the awn is less durable and flexible, more rigid.
transitional hair - thicker and tougher than down. The core layer occurs in places.
Transitional hair in its structure occupies an intermediate position between down and awn.
The transitional hair, like the awn, consists of three layers, but its core layer is much narrower and discontinuous.
According to technical indicators, the transitional hair is more suitable for down than for the awn.
dead hair - the most thick, coarse, brittle and short fiber, devoid of natural color and luster. The core layer of a dead hair occupies 90-95% of its thickness.
As a result, dead hair has low strength, is quickly destroyed by friction, does not stain and does not have the ability to fall off.
Therefore, dead hair is considered a defective fiber and is removed from the wool mass.
Chemical composition: natural protein keratin.
According to the chemical composition, wool fiber refers to protein compounds containing mainly keratin, which includes residues of various amino acids.
The elemental composition of keratin is characterized by the presence of five elements: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur.
Heat resistance - (the ability to save heat) is one of the most famous and beloved properties of wool.
Wool has the highest heat-shielding properties. This magical action occurs, thanks to the composition of its fibers, to bind heat and store it between the fibers. There is no other fiber like it in nature.
The highest hygroscopicity is 18-25%. Maximum 30%. It absorbs moisture from the environment, but unlike other fibers, it slowly absorbs and releases moisture, remaining dry to the touch. Swells strongly in water. Moistened fiber in the stretched state can be fixed by drying; when re-wetting, the length of the fiber is restored again. This property of wool is taken into account in the wet-heat treatment of products for sutyuzhka and bracing of their individual parts.
Good light fastness.
Good stretch.
Good elasticity - crease resistance.
Good stainability with acid dyes. Wool is relatively resistant to acids.
Color natural: white, gray, black, red.
Felting is the ability of wool to form a felt-like covering during the felling process. Thin, elastic, highly crimped wool has the greatest ability to felt. Cloth, drape, felt, felt.
Wool fibers repel dirt and are easy to clean.
Alkaline treatments are not available!!! Alkali, even in a weak solution, spoils wool.
Other properties.
Eh, not only we like wool. She is also loved by a moth butterfly. And the microbes love it too.
Do not store wool in a damp and very damp place, microbes cause mold and rotting of wool.
Too high drying temperatures and prolonged exposure to sunlight reduce the strength of the wool.
Well, excuse me. Well, I just can’t help but write about the well-known and my very favorite Orenburg goat.
When I think about the fact that this breed could disappear, immediately tears well up in my eyes.
Orenburg goat- Introduced in the 19th century as a result of the selection of the best breeds of goats in order to obtain a long, soft, thin fluff. It is associated with traditional and well-known throughout Russia and beyond its borders, folk craft - production
Wool is a group of natural textile fabrics, for the production of which the hair of various animals is used. Wool fabric has been and remains one of the most expensive materials with exceptional properties.
Like cotton, woolen fabric was known to man even before our era. It appeared from the very moment when the material for its production became available, that is, the first animals were tamed, capable of giving their wool for the production of fabric. According to some reports, the first fibers have been dated to 34,000 BC.
In the Middle Ages, the business of producing and selling wool became widespread.
For example, almost the entire economy of England at that time depended on the supply of this material, which was tightly controlled by the government.
There was a time when English fine wool competed with silk in international markets. Woolen fabric was also widely used in Russia. It was used both for tailoring and in the interior. At the same time, coarse cloth was intended for ordinary people, and thin cloth was used in the clothes of richer people.
However, over the years, with the advent of fabrics made from synthetic fibers, its popularity began to decline. And only after the appearance of woolen fabric, which could withstand machine washing, quickly dried and did not require ironing, did its popularity begin to revive. At the moment, woolen fabric with the addition of synthetic fibers is more popular.
Since this term is understood as a whole group of textile materials, the composition of each of them has significant differences. Wool fabric is divided into two main types: woolen and wool blend. The first is 100% made from wool yarn. To increase elasticity, sometimes it allows the introduction of up to 10% of other fibers. The composition of the second can include both other natural threads (for example, cotton, silk) and synthetic ones, and their content reaches 80%. The properties of different tissues depend on their composition. However, there are some characteristics that, to one degree or another, are inherent in all canvases.
Wool fabric has unique properties that make it a leader among fabrics for sewing warm clothes:
The most popular types are:
The most common types of wool used for the production of fabrics:
In this case, the following types are distinguished:
Depending on the type of yarn and production methods, the material can be:
Modern woolen fabrics, of course, can be washed in a typewriter, however, products made from such matter prefer delicate hand washing. In any case, the washing temperature should not exceed 30 degrees, and the detergent should be marked "for wool".
Pressing is also not recommended. Dry them by spreading them on a horizontal surface. You can iron through a damp cloth or by setting the appropriate mode on the iron. Sometimes it’s enough just to hang clothes on a hanger and the folds will straighten out on their own. Often in the process of wearing on woolen things, in places that are subjected to the greatest friction, shine appears. It is unlikely to get rid of it for good, but a temporary effect can be achieved by steaming this place and cleaning it with a stiff brush.
How to iron woolen fabric, see the video:
The material under consideration has found a wide variety of applications. Most often it is used in tailoring. Thick woolen fabric is used not only for the production of outerwear, but also in the manufacture of hats and various accessories. More subtle - like a suit, from it, jackets, dresses. Sometimes home textiles (bedspreads, blankets) are made from it. Recently, with the advent of fashion for textile bags, woolen fabric has also been used to make this accessory. Some species are used for upholstery of furniture and toys.
Wool is so diverse that it is easy to get confused in it, especially if the material is with the addition of other threads. However, if possible, you can pull out a couple of threads and set fire to it. In this case, real wool will flare up quickly, but will burn slowly. After it goes out, there remains the smell of burnt hair and a porous ball that is easily rubbed with fingers.
According to Darwinian scientists, for many hundreds of thousands of years, the only “clothes” of an ancient person was a thick hairline, to put it simply - wool. Human hair is our first clothing, the same wool, this is a substance of a protein nature, the closest and dearest to us.
wool called a group of natural textile fabrics, for the production of which the hair of various animals is used. Wool fabric has been and remains one of the most expensive materials with exceptional properties.
Short story
Ever since man was able to tame goats and sheep, raw materials for wool production have become readily available - the most ancient civilizations used wool and felt. Some archaeological excavations indicate that wool was known as early as 1500 BC. Wool fibers from wild goats have been found in prehistoric caves in the Republic of Georgia and date back as early as 34,000 BC. BC.!
In the days of Ancient Rome, wool, along with leather and linen, was popular in Europe. In the records of Pliny the Elder, it is noted that the inhabitants of Tarentum were considered the best reputation for wool producers, where, thanks to special care, sheep with excellent wool were bred.
During the Middle Ages, the wool trade became a serious business and a major generator of capital formation. From the 13th century, the economy of the Benelux countries, Central Italy depended on it, by the end of the next century Italy began to prevail, until in the 16th century it was reoriented to silk. The development of the industry was based on the English raw export of wool. The main competitor was Castile. And Britain in 1275 introduces export duties on wool.
Since the 14th century, the presiding officer of the House of Lords has sat on " wool sack"- a chair "stuffed" with wool. It was a kind of symbol of the importance of wool for the development of the English economy.
Over the centuries, various British laws controlled the wool trade or required the use of wool even in burials. Smugglers were once punished by cutting off their hands. After the Restoration era, fine English wool began to compete internationally with silk.
As technological progress developed and synthetic fabrics appeared on the world markets, the demand for woolen fabrics began to fall.
The collapse in wool prices began in late 1966 with a 40% drop. The result was a sharp reduction in production and the redirection of funds to the development of the production of other goods.
In the early 70s, a technology for the production of the so-called washable wool appeared - the fiber was specially processed in such a way that machine washing could already be used for products.
In December 2006, the United Nations General Assembly proclaimed 2009 International Year of Natural Fibers , which greatly increased the prestige of woolen fabrics and other natural fibers.
In 2007, Japanese experts developed a woolen suit that is easy to wash, dries within a few hours and does not require ironing. Australian merino wool was used in this development.
Properties and composition of wool
Wool fabric is divided into two main types: woolen and semi-woolen. The first is 100% made from wool yarn. To increase elasticity, sometimes it allows the introduction of up to 10% of other fibers. The composition of the second can include both other natural threads (for example, cotton, silk) and synthetic ones, and their content reaches 80%. The properties of different tissues depend on their composition. However, there are some characteristics that, to one degree or another, are inherent in all canvases.
Wool- the owner of unique properties, which makes it a leader among fabrics for sewing warm clothes:
Of the minuses:
The most popular types of woolen fabrics are:
The most common types of wool used for the production of fabrics:
There are such wool types:
Depending on the type of yarn and production methods fabric is:
Read how to care for wool products.
Interesting Wool Facts:
Reading time: 7 minutes
Natural wool is animal hair collected for processing and exploitation. Mostly woolen fabric is made from sheep. Camels, goats, llamas, rabbits are also used. Wool consists mainly of keratin protein, which contains a lot of sulfur.
To obtain fluff, animals are combed out, to obtain wool, they are sheared. After harvesting, it is cleaned and sorted.
Yarn is made from it, which is converted into natural fabrics or with the addition of synthetics. It is used for the manufacture of felted and felt products.
According to the method of extraction, it is divided into three types:
Fiber types:
Types depending on the animal:
Different woolen fabrics differ from each other in density, processing method, composition.
In general, they can be divided into three subgroups:
Depending on the purpose, various woolen cloths are used.
Demanded fabrics for the production of women's and men's suits:
What are women's and men's coats made of:
So that rough materials do not injure the delicate skin of the child, two soft types are usually used:
What other fabrics are there?
Three easy ways:
Ingredients must be listed on the label. If a thing is made of expensive material, such as angora or cashmere, you should ask for a certificate for the product before buying.
Correct actions:
Various things are made from wool: outer and casual clothes, shoes, hats and accessories, upholstery for furniture. Woolen clothes can be both business office and cozy home. With good care, the product will last a long time and will not lose its shape and properties.
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