Supply valve for a wooden house with a stove. How to make ventilation in a wooden house

To create a healthy microclimate and comfortable living conditions, to preserve building structures and interior decoration, to make the non-repair period as long as possible should be ventilation of a wooden house.

Air exchange tasks

Ventilation ensures the movement of air flows from one part of a wooden house to another. To do this, at least simple measures are carried out:

• channels for air intake (from the street) and its removal to the outside are being equipped;
• the circulation of air masses is organized so that they seep into all rooms, utility rooms without exception.

What are the preferred options for ventilation in a wooden house? There is no single answer, just as there are no identically built houses. Special projects are being developed to create an exclusive dwelling of different heights and completeness.

Therefore, the main requirement for choosing the type of air exchange is that the speed of air movement does not cause discomfort (there are no drafts) and cope with the necessary supply of fresh air. The absence of unpleasant odors and dampness, the prevention of putrefactive processes, the extension of the life of structures - this is the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a wooden house.

Air exchange systems for a wooden house

• Natural. Comfortable living conditions are achieved with an hourly aeration capacity of 0.7 - 0.9 cubic meters. The movement of air in the system is provided by the temperature difference between the flows.
• Forced. The volume of circulated air per hour is 3.0-5.5 cubic meters.

Features of wooden structures with natural micro-slits in the timber or between boards, between wooden window and door openings, a stove (if any) or a fireplace already at the construction stage create conditions for effective natural air exchange. Such a ventilation system of a wooden house is considered the most optimal option for air exchange.

Note! Modern houses are being built using finishing materials with little or no vapor permeability, installing plastic structures on windows, which significantly reduces the penetration of air from outside and outside. In such cases, mechanical methods of air exchange or a combined type of ventilation are used.

But the rationality of using installations with mechanical air injection (removal) is determined for each object individually.

Supply ventilation in a mechanical type wooden house solves a number of problems:

• supplies fresh outside air;
• passes it through filters, cutting off pollutants;
• heats the air flow moving through the ventilation duct;
• collects and removes exhaust air from the premises.

How is the scheme of the ventilation system drawn up

The ventilation system in a wooden house requires preliminary drawing up a layout of its main elements. It specifies:

• location(s) of ventilation openings;
• layout of air ducts, number of turns;
• volume of air exchange (determined by calculation);
• section of ventilation ducts: calculated or taken from reference literature (tables) depending on the size of the premises;
• type of insulation used.

Attention! Effective ventilation requires the organization of the movement of polluted air flow in the direction of the toilet and kitchen. To dispose of smoky and dusty masses, do-it-yourself ventilation in a wooden house is equipped with an exhaust hood.

Equipment set

When deciding to create a mechanical air exchange, you need to have a set of devices and mechanisms:

• blower fan;
• set of filters;
• air heater in the cold period, powered by the mains;
• dry air supply humidifier;
• vibration compensator, etc.

Stages of creating a system

The general algorithm of work, how to make ventilation in a wooden house, is as follows:

• Perform system performance calculations.
• Draw up a project of the house and a ventilation scheme.
• Purchase the necessary equipment.
• Perform installation of home-made supply valves and equipment (depending on the type of ventilation).
• Organize air exchange of the roof and basement.

Attention! Another way of air exchange in the house is to install a heat exchanger, as well as a monoblock system with cleaning filters (coarse and fine).

At the initial stage, when deciding how to properly ventilate a wooden house, its performance is calculated. It depends on the number of residents, the size of the house. The speed of air movement determines the required air exchange rate. You need to focus on the value of 150-200 m3 / hour. Given these values, the number of complete air changes in the house is found.

Optimization of ventilation processes with supply valves

With increased tightness of structures, it is necessary to provide places for arranging valves through which air circulates in each of the rooms, including in the bathroom and kitchen, even at the design stage. They are of two types:

• Window. Installation is possible only at the construction stage, while window frames are not yet available. Valves are carried out together with the manufacture of PVC window structures.
• infiltration valve. They are mounted in the walls when it is inappropriate to replace old boxes with new window blocks. A small round pipe is "threaded" through the wall. Both edges are covered with bars. From the side of the room, the protection is adjusted to select the optimal ventilation mode.

Why Choose Natural Air Exchange

Vents in the basement - an element of natural ventilation

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is carried out in the form of vertical air channels. They must be of the same section and with a minimum roughness of the inner side of the walls. This will greatly increase traction. Mounted in the kitchen, toilet, bathroom. Inlets are arranged in rooms with access to the wall, and then brought out under the roof. The higher the hood is located under the roof, the better the movement of air flows. If you plan to install a similar duct in the cellar, basement, then one channel is not enough. Several are required.

Roof ventilation in the form of an aerator prevents the formation and settling of condensate on crossbars, rafters, columns, and thermal insulation of the house. This is a passage through the roof, made to insert a device with a diameter of 100 mm into it. The aerator is fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges of the "skirt". If the ventilation passage to the roof is made illiterately, troubles may arise in the form of:

• Corrosion damage to metal parts of the structure.
• Destruction of wooden elements by fungus and mold.
• Deterioration of the characteristics of the thermal insulation material, etc.

Forced (supply and exhaust) type of ventilation in a wooden house does not depend on weather conditions. Moreover, the devices included in the system can additionally heat or cool the air injected from the street before it enters the house. The ventilation unit is working. Two sleeves of an air duct are brought to it. The flows circulate in the deflector. Once in the air intake, they spread throughout the room. One of the disadvantages is the participation of a person who controls the parameters and adjusts the air supply.

When choosing a ventilation system for a wooden house, you need to understand the principle of its operation, as well as evaluate the possibilities of installing it yourself.

The main advantage of a wooden house is breathability and the ability to "breathe". Since the tree not only passes air through its pores, but also purifies it, a wooden house is naturally equipped with natural ventilation. However, for technical rooms, bathrooms and baths, this method is unacceptable.

Natural

It is mainly used as an auxiliary one, since during ventilation it occurs due to open ventilation ducts, but there is no way to regulate and control air exchange. Also, the disadvantage is heat leakage, dust ingress and drafts. In winter, the thrust, which is carried out due to the height difference, is greater than in summer, and is able to remove moist air. However, in the heat, the humidity rises, which is bad for the tree. Often, condensation, mold or fungus appears on the windows.

The ventilation scheme of a country house of a natural type is arranged as follows. Vertical channels are located from the ventilated room to the roof ridge. Due to the temperature difference at their inlet and outlet, a force arises that draws warm air from the room. Wind also influences traction. Its strength depends on the section, the height of the channel, the presence of constrictions and turns.

Fresh air enters through door openings, leaky windows, reaches the kitchen and exits through the ventilation duct. Such a system leads to the fact that in summer air exchange cannot meet sanitary standards, and in winter heat loss can be 40% of all heat loss. Living rooms are not well ventilated. The main purpose of natural ventilation is to remove moisture, odors and products of gas combustion.

As a method of improving the system, the installation of kitchen hoods and electric fans at the inlet of the channels.

Forced

Forced ventilation of a wooden house is more efficient than natural ventilation. The basis is a block equipped with filters, a heat exchanger and fans. Two air ducts are connected to it. Through the hood, the old air exits into the deflector on the roof, and the air intake draws in fresh air from the street, leads it to the ventilation unit, and then to the rooms.

In winter, cold and warm flows meet in the heat exchanger. The outdoor air is heated. The recovery unit is the most expensive element, but it justifies itself by saving energy for heating, allowing you to save up to 25%.

Disadvantages of forced ventilation:

• high noise level or additional costs for mufflers;
• mandatory presence of heat exchangers;
• high price;
• lack of the required volume of supply air;
• the appearance of drafts with strong fan power.

With the addition of a heater, the system turns into a supply and exhaust system.

Combined

Combined ventilation at home can be considered a symbiosis of natural and forced ventilation. It allows you to discharge the draw and adjust the flows if necessary. The design provides for forced inflow, and in the hood - mechanical. It allows you to keep warm in the room. The main advantage is its cost, which is lower than the above types. Since there are no motors in the air handling units, the noise level is reduced.

Often a combined hood is placed between floors and under the floor. It is better to design it at the very beginning of construction in order to provide passages or special boxes.

Prices

The cost of an air ventilation device in a wooden house depends on many factors:

• volume of supplied air;
• appointment of ventilation;
• type and composition of the system;
• the specifics of the premises;
• features of the products and materials used.

The design price is calculated individually.

Average prices for various types of equipment

Installation cost

The vast majority of owners of wooden houses do not need too complicated ventilation systems for their living space. At any time, a portion of fresh air can be obtained from a simple window vent. Not to mention the fact that any micro-gap in the inter-timber connection of logs can serve as an invisible source of life-giving oxygen. And wood itself is a fairly heat-resistant, “breathing” building material, which has sufficient vapor permeability and does not really need special arrangement of artificial ventilation systems. An important role in ventilation is also played by the presence of a stove in a wooden house, through the pipe of which the dwelling is additionally ventilated.

• Comfort from the constant presence of fresh and clean air;
• The environmental friendliness of the materials used in this scheme provide a cozy atmosphere in the house, while positively influencing the state of health;
• When unpleasant odors, substances harmful to the body enter the home air, the risk of being hit is minimized.

The main advantage of this scheme is the ability to control the air exhausted from the room.

Ventilation of the roof of a wooden house

Normal ventilation is needed not only for the rooms of the house, but also for the roof. If it does not exist, then in the future we will have to expect significant problems, starting from the roof and ending with the ceiling. Only free air circulation in the attic will save the house from all these troubles, maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions.

Our ancestors ventilated the roofs of their houses by equipping dormer windows. The cold attic is well ventilated, thanks to the holes in the ridge on the cornice and frontal dormer windows.

Ventilation ridges and under the roof eaves in modern houses form the most efficient system, using natural thermal and wind pressure.

For the free flow of air to the ridge vents in the insulated attic, a ventilation gap is made between the outer and heat-insulating layers of the roof. It is arranged between the roofing material and waterproofing at least 5 cm wide.

The hood can be mounted not only in the form of ridge holes, but also in the form of pitched ventilation elements installed near the ridge.

It is believed that the tree "breathes", but the main reason lies not at all in this useful feature of the natural building material, but in the fact that it can absorb and release moisture. Therefore, the issue of ventilation in a room for a bathroom in a wooden house is very important.

Passive ventilation is enough for a standard one-story house with one, but in larger houses you will have to arrange a mechanical ventilation system (supply and exhaust ventilation). In wooden houses, ventilation ducts are usually designed separately for each room, especially for the bathroom, bathroom and kitchen. The extract of exhaust air is discharged through them to the roof.

Here are the regulatory requirements for ventilation in bathrooms:

• the highest air velocity in this room should be 0.3 m per second;
• humidity (relative) should not exceed 65 percent;
• air temperature in summer should be +25 0 С, in winter - about +18 0 С;
• for sufficient air freshening, the supply / exhaust should be: in a regular toilet 25, in a bathroom - 50 cubic meters / hour.

For any plumbing fixture, it is necessary to comply with the air exchange rate (m 3 / h):

• 75 for shower/jacuzzi/bath,
• 25 for washbasin/bidet,
• 50 for the toilet.

Since plumbing fixtures are rarely used at the same time, the capacity of the ventilation system in the bathroom may not exceed 110 cubic meters. at one o'clock.

Bathroom fan. Such a fan is selected according to the following parameters:

• noise level ─ not higher than 40 decibels;
• the presence of bearings;
• device performance, depending on the cubic capacity of the room and the frequency of air exchange (bathroom ─ 8/10, bathroom ─ 7/8);
• fan start option;
• fan model designed for high humidity levels.

The main problems that arise during the use of the bathroom are excess humidity and heat, the consequence of which is mold in the room, the wooden material begins to rot, and the metal parts become rusty. Ventilation will help restore a comfortable microclimate. It ensures proper air exchange, and also maintains the most suitable humidity (relative) and temperature in a given room.

Toilet ventilation

The toilet, frankly, is the strongest source of unpleasant odors in a wooden building, and mechanical ventilation is necessary here, like nowhere else in the house.

We have already written about the selection of a fan for a bathroom above. Let us now dwell on the main features of the toilet ventilation scheme:

• In order for the draft to be sufficient, the supply channels are laid near the floor, the exhaust channels - the ceiling of the room;
• The hood device is optimally installed on the wall opposite the door;
• Air ducts are selected with the most smooth inner surface;
• They are stretched for each room of the house separately;
• Ventilation ducts are laid as straight as possible, with a minimum number of smooth bends.

A more detailed toilet ventilation scheme in a wooden house is shown in the figure below.

In addition to other types of toilets, in a wooden house you can also often find a bathroom in the form of a backlash closet if there is no central sewerage. In this case, the toilet is connected to a waste pit, which requires a special insulated structure. The total volume of the pit is calculated based on the number of people living in the house. True, you will have to monitor the occupancy of the cesspool, and pay increased attention to ventilation.

floor ventilation

Wood floor ventilation extends the period of trouble-free operation of this important part of the house. If the air stagnates, the main enemies of wood - fungi, mold and condensate - will eventually destroy it to dust.

There are two popular types of floor ventilation:

• through the air intakes
• through the vents (windows, simple in design, leading from the underground to the street).

floor ventilation scheme
1 - covering the wooden floor; 2 - vapor barrier; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - slab floor; 5 - logs made of wood; 6 - ventilation hole (air)

Air intakes are arranged under the baseboards in the form of a system of holes, which creates air exchange between the premises and the underground space. Thanks to it, the soil under the house and the foundation does not freeze through.

Sometimes floor ventilation is enhanced by traction stimulation in the holes. To do this, bring a tin pipe or cut holes in the base. For the same purpose, electric fans are installed on one side of the house.

In winter, the ventilation openings should be closed. Soil and wooden structures may freeze, and when warmed, moisture condensate forms in the premises of the house. Not to mention the cold field.

Another important nuance of ventilation in a wooden house. With the onset of cold weather, rodents begin to look for warm shelters for themselves, and ideal conditions are created for them under the floor. Not only do they spoil wooden structures, they spread various diseases. In order to protect the basement of the house from them, gratings are placed on the windows, which are replaced with wooden or clay plugs or bricks during frosts. Plugs are removed from the vents with the onset of heat after the snow melts.

Wall ventilation

A ventilated wooden facade allows you to solve the following problems in general:

• additional insulation;
• hiding visible wall defects;
• additional decoration of the facade;
• strengthening strength;
• increase the sound insulation of walls;
• simplification of care for them;
• extending the period of the next repair and operation of the building as a whole.

The wall "pie" looks multi-layered. It includes the following layers:

• wood wall surface,
• waterproof membrane,
• ventilation gap,
• decorative finishing facing layer.

Any layer performs a strictly defined role in a ventilated facade, therefore, they cannot be replaced or removed. The selection of insulation and the ventilation scheme are dictated by the size of finances, the climatic conditions of the location of the wooden house. In the northern regions, special attention is paid to insulation in combination with ventilation.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a wooden house: to find out if it is possible to arrange a suitable ventilation system in a wooden house on your own, follow the hyperlink to familiarize yourself with the video information.

Any building is exposed to physical and weather factors. Cold, heat, temperature changes - all this negatively affects the condition of any building. This has a particularly negative effect on houses made of wood, as it reacts more strongly to the mentioned impact categories. For this reason, such buildings are in great need of ventilation.

Is air circulation necessary?

Many experts argue that buildings made of wood are "breathable", they do not need special ventilation systems. In their opinion, it is sufficient that air enters the building through the windows, as well as the gaps between the wooden elements. Previously, it might have been.

But today, wooden buildings are built in such a way that there is simply no natural ventilation in a wooden house. Builders are trying to make such a house as high as possible and prevent the presence of cracks and drafts in order to save heat as much as possible. The installation of windows and doors is also carried out as tightly as possible, and the joints and gaps are treated with special substances. That is, in such a house there is simply no possibility for fresh air masses to enter the premises. Another problem appears - the exhaust air must also go somewhere. At a minimum, for these reasons, there should be a ventilation mechanism in a private house.

But that's not all, because there are other reasons as well.

• Wood very easily absorbs moisture, which can cause it to decay and rot. Moisture can cause mold and mildew.
• Despite the fact that wood can pass air better than concrete, there is no effect from this without a special formation of the ventilation mechanism.
• Maintaining temperature balance. It is thanks to ventilation that it is easy to use the used air masses to heat the room.
• Water, heat and carbon dioxide cannot be removed by a tree, which means that an air circulation system is indispensable.

In general, as you can see, the need for air circulation in a wooden house is very, very high.

Device and principle of operation

To make it pleasant to be in such a building, it is necessary not only to have clean air, it must also have an appropriate temperature. Yes, and the air must arrive at a certain speed. And the lower this figure, the more comfortable it is to be inside the building. Air exchange using a mechanical supply and exhaust ventilation system will be significantly greater than in the case when it comes to a natural analogue. For a system where there is a hood, this figure varies in the range of 3-5 cubic meters per hour, and in the natural version it does not exceed one cubic meter at the same time.

For this reason, natural ventilation provides a slightly more comfortable environment. But there are times when a mechanical type system is indispensable. The lower the speed of air transportation in the line, the more its cross section will increase. For the same volume of passage in the case of using natural ventilation, a channel will be required that will have a larger cross section than with mechanical ventilation.

For the hood, the capacity of which is three hundred cubic meters per hour, for natural transportation, a channel with a diameter of 35 centimeters will be needed. For a mechanical type hood, a channel with a diameter of only 20 centimeters will be needed. Not always a large channel can be placed in the wall. But its installation along the wall or under the ceiling, from an aesthetic point of view, may not be the best solution.

Types of systems

How exactly the air exchange will take place in a particular wooden house should be considered before the start of construction and even before the start of the design phase. Ventilation in such a house is usually organized by a natural method. The passive option involves the flow of air through a series of channels:

• special products that are made on the basement floor;
• window slots in wooden windows, although this option is no longer relevant today;
• microcirculation mechanism in new plastic windows;
• open windows and vents in the summer;
• supply valves, which are quite interesting modern solutions.

The first type of ventilation to which attention should be paid is passive. Passive ventilation provides for the exit of used air through vertical channels outside the roof. A classic is the creation of exhaust ducts from the toilet and kitchen. In recent years, the best solution is to place vertical shaft extractors separately for living quarters, kitchens and toilets. And if there is a reverse draft, then this avoids the danger of mixing odors.

The circulation of air masses between the rooms in this case will be provided by means of a gap from the floor at the bottom of the door leaf. The entrance to the exhaust shaft will be located at the top of the wall. For laying the mine itself, it is best to use pipes made of metal, with a minimum number of bends, or plastic pipes with a smooth surface. The advantages of such a system are:

• low cost of arrangement;
• durability;
• ease of installation;
• reliability;
• low cost of components, which includes ventilation pipes, supply valves, ventilation grilles;
• no need to spend money on electricity;
• ease of use;
• ease of cleaning ducts.

But a wooden house, the ventilation of which is made using passive technology, has serious disadvantages:

• the inability to accurately control the characteristics of temperature and humidity;
• the efficiency of air exchange in the summer period is significantly reduced.

Another option is active ventilation. This solution has a high efficiency of air exchange, the ability to accurately determine temperature values ​​and humidity. In this case, supply equipment with a fan, humidifiers, cleaning filters and noise absorbers is used. If such a system is installed in a house with an attic floor, then its efficiency can be increased by placing an exhaust type fan. Using the system allows you to provide the best conditions in any weather and make your stay indoors comfortable. But such a system also has significant drawbacks:

• high price;
• difficulty in installation;
• high costs for electricity and operation of such a system.

Another option that can be done is a combined solution. Such a solution will be especially effective if the exhaust intensity is improved by using axial fans at the entrance to vertical air shafts. In this case, air access to the premises is carried out according to natural technology, and a device will be installed at the outlet of the ventilation system, which causes a powerful air outflow.

Design

Creating an effective ventilation mechanism in the type of buildings under consideration with your own hands implies the need for certain calculations based on the following factors:

• the number of people living in the building;
• air volume in the building;
• the technique used, which forms an electrostatic field, due to which the air composition changes and air ions disappear.

The project creation scheme will start with air exchange calculations. This parameter will be the key and it will make it possible to determine the category of ventilation. If it belongs to the natural group, then the speed of movement of air flows will be somewhere around one cubic meter per hour. If it speaks of a supply and exhaust system, then the value will increase to three cubic meters per hour. The speed of movement of air masses is also taken into account. When natural ventilation of the exhaust type is designed in a wooden house, it is understood that the speed of transporting air flows will be less than with forced ventilation.

The higher this characteristic, the lower the cross-section of the duct will be needed. As an example, we note that in order to pass 300 cubic meters of air per hour through the exhaust of the forced mechanism, a section of 16 by 20 centimeters or a diameter of twenty centimeters will suffice. Speaking of natural circulation, the cross section should be 25 by 40 centimeters or a diameter of 35 centimeters. The calculation must be made in accordance with the following characteristics:

• sanitary and hygienic requirements;
• air exchange rate;
• building area.

By the way, the frequency of air exchange will be directly related to the purpose of the building. Kitchen ventilation in the type of buildings under consideration has a multiplicity value of 1. At least if we are talking about the normative value. If there is an error, then the final value should be rounded up.

Note that you can provide good air circulation without the involvement of specialists yourself. But you need to know how to use tools. First, as already mentioned, you should calculate all the indicators of the ventilation system in a house made of wood. It is required to understand how intense the air flows are, so that later you can calculate the desired air exchange rate. Usually a value of 150-200 cubic meters per hour is sufficient. Now we determine the multiplicity of air exchange, that is, for how many times there will be a complete renewal of air in the building.

To improve the efficiency of the ventilation system, the size of the building is taken into account, as well as the number of people who live in it on a permanent basis. In order for the air exchange to be of better quality, it will not be superfluous to supplement each room, including the toilet and bathroom, with supply valves. According to many, these devices make too much noise, which is actually not entirely true. The reason is that they are equipped with a special noise-insulating material. In addition, the ventilation of such a house also implies that you often have to personally install the supply valves of a home-made type. But this will be necessary only when the sound insulation is not in the duct, but only at the outlet. You can choose an exhaust category fan with a power reserve, which will give it the opportunity to equip the premises of the house with the quietest devices.

If desired, ventilation in such a building can also be provided by a monoblock system with filters of various cleaning, as well as the possibility of low electrical energy consumption. This is usually achieved through the presence of a built-in heat exchanger. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the scheme of movement of air flows. Then the warm air, according to the laws of physics, will rise up, and the cold air will remain below. For this reason, ventilation of the floor and subfloor will be extremely important, and this should also be taken into account in the calculations that will be carried out.

You should also be aware of the norms for optimal air exchange, which are stipulated in SNiP. These rules must be strictly observed. Only then can ventilation provide comfort in the house. Speaking specifically about the various premises, it should be said that:

• in the toilet, the indicator will be 30 cubic meters per hour;
• in the kitchen 50 if an electric stove is installed, and 70 if a gas stove is installed;
• in utility rooms, this figure is 15 cubic meters;
• in residential premises - 30;
• in the bathroom - 50.

How to install with your own hands?

Now let's talk about how to make ventilation in a wood house with your own hands. Let's show this on the example of a building with an area of ​​150 square meters and using an air distribution mechanism with flexible type air ducts made of corrugated.

It is best to place ventilation mechanisms in the attic in such a way that, without damaging the roof, make it as efficient as possible. And along the riser and under the ceiling in the ceilings, make hidden lines for the supply and exit of air on several floors of the building. You can, of course, draw a conclusion through the wall, but in this case it was decided to do it in such a way as to preserve the beauty of the building.

The installation of the mechanism starts with the installation of junction boxes for 10 slots. The first box will be responsible for the air supply, and the second - for the output. In addition, they will play the role of a silencer, since the boxes are wrapped with a two-centimeter layer of noise-absorbing material.

Now two silencers and a ventilation unit equipped with a heat exchanger are being installed. Its wall is easily dismantled for replacement of air filters. Now marking is being carried out and a passage is made through the load-bearing wall of wood to the street for the installation of an outlet that will supply fresh air to the house.

The next step is to connect the ventilation unit with noise silencers, insulate the air supply and exhaust lines and subsequent installation. If the air intake were made on the side of the house, then the exhaust air should be removed through the roof. Then the installation of the so-called pass-through element would be carried out. For this, a passage is made through the roof. After installing the fungus, a pipe is connected to it, through which the exhaust air will be removed. A little lower, already in the house wall, it is required to make a round hole for air intake, which must be closed with a ventilation grill.

The next step is to connect to the tap system. To do this, the installation is connected with an insulated pipe and a passage in the roof. Now another insulated outlet is being arranged nearby. He will be responsible for the supply and removal of air. Such a pipe can connect a kitchen hood to the installation through a kitchen socket. The next step is to place and install the ceiling crusts. This must be done according to the ventilation project. Subsequently, during the finishing work, it will be possible to make a ceiling, and then the protruding part of the boxes will be cut off, after which special poppet valves will be installed.

When this is done, flexible corrugated ducts should be prepared. It is necessary to outline the highways, measure the desired length and cut everything evenly. Now we connect them using special rubber seal rings and a set of strong latches. Nests that need to be left free are closed with plugs. Having fixed the air duct, we get a finished line. After that, we finish connecting all ceiling-type boxes and move on to flat solutions through the wall.

For installation, we adjust them in thickness, attach and put the grate. If desired, you can change the lattice slope, which will allow you to direct the air flow in a certain direction. We bring the second parts of the air ducts to the junction boxes that were mounted on the roof.

Each air duct falls into its nest. That is, one part supplies air to the premises, and the second takes it. And so it should be for all highways. This completes the installation of the ventilation system in a wooden house. The final touch will be the installation of poppet valves after the completion of the finishing work and the outdoor ventilation grill, which should also be installed at the end of the work.

How to make ventilation in a wooden house, see the following video.

The ventilation system of a country house should be designed depending on the building materials used to build the building, and taking into account the design features of your home. The rather favorable location of a country house away from the city with its gassed atmosphere saturated with particles of dust, dirt, waste from enterprises, etc. suggests that natural ventilation can be dispensed with, but this method is not suitable for every home. Let's look at the ventilation device in a wooden house, as well as how to make ventilation yourself.

Why do you need ventilation in a wooden house

Each person in the course of his life emits about 1 kg of carbon dioxide per day, and also evaporates about 1.5 kg of water. If you conduct an experiment and place a person in a room without ventilation, then after a while the air inside will become stale, its temperature and humidity will increase, and the person inside will experience discomfort due to a decrease in the level of oxygen in the air.

Ventilation in the house serves to remove air saturated with carbon dioxide, water vapor and various odors from the room, supplying air saturated with oxygen and having a fresh smell in return. According to scientists, normal indoor air circulation has a beneficial effect on human well-being, because thanks to it, the body is supplied with oxygen in the amount necessary for the full functioning of the circulatory system and brain.

If the ventilation in the house works flawlessly, then we don’t even notice it - it’s so natural. But any violations in its work are immediately noticeable: due to foreign objects that have fallen into the ventilation ducts, their permeability decreases, which affects the volume of incoming air. In the future, the poor performance of the ventilation system can cause condensation on the windows and walls of the house, which can lead to fungus and mold in the corners and on the walls of the premises of the house.

Ventilation device

Previously, the ventilation system in residential buildings was mostly natural: air exchange was provided by air circulation through the cracks that formed in wooden doors and wooden window frames, and was also removed through ventilation ducts, which were usually equipped in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. Such a ventilation device in the house provided a regular supply of fresh air: in the warm season, it was supplemented with open windows and doors, but with the onset of cold weather, drafts caused a decrease in the temperature in the dwelling, which entailed an increase in heating costs for the whole house.

Nowadays, the installation of plastic windows allows you to keep the heat in the house, but their tightness completely deprives it of natural ventilation. To ensure normal air exchange in your home, you will have to take care of the arrangement of the ventilation system.

To ensure air circulation in a country house, the following types of ventilation systems are used:

• Natural. Such a system is suitable for houses and cottages that are built "the old fashioned way" - without the use of plastic windows and special heaters that prevent infiltration (the penetration of outside air through leaks in window frames, walls and doors).
• Exhaust. This system is widely used in conjunction with natural. In separate rooms (kitchen, bathroom, shower room), ventilation ducts are designed that will extract air in a natural way. To increase the flow, you can install small fans in the ducts, or place one fan on the roof.
• Supply and exhaust. Air circulation occurs with the help of a supply and exhaust unit, which is installed taking into account the volume of ventilated rooms. Before installing such an installation, it is necessary to calculate the required power, which will depend on the volume of the premises, the number of residents in the house and the width of the ventilation ducts of the building.

The ventilation device in the house can be done independently or entrusted with this work to professionals.

Compared to their brick counterparts, wooden houses have higher infiltration. This is due to the fact that wood is better breathable than brick. However, additional ventilation in a wooden house is simply necessary - natural air circulation may not be enough to remove exhaust air and odors from the premises, and besides, this method of air exchange does not allow you to control heat loss during the cold season.

The most successful will be the use of a supply and exhaust system. When designing a wooden house, it is necessary to provide for the places where the elements of the ventilation system will be laid (ducts for air outlet ducts, a place for placing a supply and exhaust unit, etc.) You should also pay attention to the ventilation of bathrooms and bathrooms, because due to poor air circulation from dampness can develop fungus.

How to make ventilation in the house

1. How to make ventilation in the house? - this question is often asked by the owners of country houses who installed plastic windows in the premises and felt the deterioration of air circulation. The best option is to use an air handling unit that will provide forced air exchange in your home.
2. If you have design skills and can calculate the required power of the installation, then it will not be difficult for you to make ventilation in the house. To ensure a comfortable indoor air temperature, we recommend using an air handling unit with heat recovery.
3. To begin work on the installation of a ventilation system, one should study the building plan, which indicates the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach room. These data should be used to calculate the air exchange rate, which will affect the choice of ventilation unit depending on its performance.
4. You will also need to purchase (in addition to installation) air ducts (made of galvanized steel or flexible), ventilation grilles, diffusers, fasteners, flow regulators, etc.

Ventilation scheme

The figure shows the ventilation scheme in houses where air handling units are used. The movement of air through the ducts can be traced by the arrows showing the direction of the air flows.