Do-it-yourself sawing machine accessories. Accessories for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands Accessories for a circular saw with your own hands

A manual circular electric saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting lumber.

Included with it are usually supplied devices that help the master in his work.

But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. Yes, and work experience will sooner or later lead to the appearance of completely home-made devices (as they are called), which, for all their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.

Parallel stop

The regular circular fence is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a parallel stop for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful tool.

The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values ​​that allow it to cut with a width of less than 20–25 mm. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the protective casing of the saw. But it is enough to attach a wooden block to the parallel bar of the regular stop with screws - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts less than 15 mm, the bar does not allow the protective cover to close the saw blade.

Stop for transverse and angled cuts

A cross cut device is also often used. With it, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90 °. Such an emphasis is also used for trimming boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. A guide bar or rail with a height of at least 20 mm is fixed on it with glue or self-tapping screws. An emphasis is attached to the underside of the base, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar.

The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of a manual circular, the fixture is always made individually. It is usually attached to the material being processed with clamps.

Advanced craftsmen make their fasteners from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. The clamp is carried out with a wing nut on the screw. Such a clamping device allows you to very quickly fix the stop on lumber of different widths.

If you install the same bar on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first one, and then also cut off part of the base at 45 ° with a saw, you will get an angular universal stop for cuts at both 45 ° and 90 °. A more versatile design of the corner stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor, fixed on top. It should be noted that making a do-it-yourself protractor for a circular is a more difficult task.

saddle stop

If you have to saw a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then you should spend time making a simple saddle stop. Its use will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle stop works especially effectively when sawing thick bars, for which the disc requires two cuts from different sides.

Emphasis-saddle has a U-shape. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.

Side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls must be greater than the width of the cant in order to support the platform of the circular until the saw blade comes into contact with the cant.

The saddle is put on the beam at a distance from the cut marking, corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and is pressed against the beam with clamps through the sidewalls. Using the sidewall as a stop for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the beam is such that one cut is not enough, then it is turned over and another cut is made. The position of the stop does not change in any way.

Guide bar

For cutting large and long sheets of lumber on the table, a long hand-made guide bar for a circular saw will be useful.

The basis in this case is (8–10 mm) plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The tire itself can be wooden (a bar 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped profile. The tire is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it should remain a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for fastening to the sheet with clamps. On the other hand, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After that, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disk. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is fixed and the sheet is sawn.

Edge stop

This is already a rather complicated device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work, so as not to miss the size. In fact, such an emphasis is included in the circular saw kit, but its short length does not always provide an even cut. Large size and desired strength require the base of the stop to be made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. From it you can also make a stubborn bar.

Steps for making a stop:

• at the base, longitudinal grooves are made for the dowels;
• hardwood dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
• between the longitudinal grooves, another through groove is made to secure the thrust bar during operation;
• a hole is cut in the base for the circular saw blade;
• on the sides of the base, restrictive strips are placed for the installation of a circular and clamps are provided for its secure fastening.

When the stop is placed on the material being processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the required distance and is fixed through the through slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to suffer every time with a ruler, you can fix it (or a piece of tape measure) on the basis of the stop along the guide grooves.

There are such small devices that even a tool is shameful to consider. At the same time, they are great for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.

Setting bars

The simplest detail that facilitates the installation of any stop and a marking guide is a bar of small section. Cuts are applied on it, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two of these bars will help to install any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. It remains only to fix the guide.

Pull-out protection

Protection can be any bar, the width corresponding to the thickness of the workpiece being cut. If it is fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the material being processed, it will act as a limiter and serve as protection against tearing and chipping.

These devices are not limited to a set of useful homemade products that make it easier to work with a hand-held circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others require time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for a circular with their own hands. There would be a desire.

When you have your own house or suburban area, then a static circular saw will be an excellent assistant for you. With its help, you can quickly and efficiently carry out complex work on cutting various products. Such a tool can be purchased if the budget allows. Or you can create your own. It is also important to have the necessary equipment for it.

A circular saw. concept

A circular saw is a special saw that allows you to quickly and evenly cut wood products, plywood, laminate and various boards.

There are household and professional models. The first can function with pauses. Their engine needs breaks of 15-20 minutes. They do not withstand significant loads.

The latter have more powerful engines. They can work intensively for a very long time. Therefore, they are usually used in production.

For use in personal households, household modifications are used. And keeping professional versions is unprofitable.

The level of work and their types are determined by the bed of this tool.

About bed elements

Devices for different. The main one is the bed. If the power of the saw is insignificant (no more than 1.2 kW), it is easy to build such a bed yourself. Its length is affected by the length of the material going to the cut.

The Bosch electric drill is suitable for the drive, its parameter is 0.85 kW. It is mounted under the stove with a special bracket.

The accuracy and evenness of the cut is better when the workpiece rests entirely on the table surface. And if the table has too large parameters, it will fill the entire working area. We need an average here. The height is selected according to your height, so that it is more convenient to work.

Materials and tools

Bakelite plywood with a minimum density of 5 cm is bought for the table.

In addition to it, you will need:

1. Board 5 x 10 cm.
2. Bars 5 x 5 cm.
3. Clamps.
4. A set of self-tapping screws.
5. Glue and varnishes.
6. Manual circular.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Manual cutter.
9. Drill.

Making a table

When you need to assemble fixtures, the first step is to create a bed. It consists of a base and a tabletop.

The design of the second element is influenced by the fastening structure of the working disk.

The process of creating a key attachment for a circular saw takes place in several stages. They are outlined below:

Creating legs

The assembly of a complete fixture for a circular saw is not limited to the indicated stages.

For the legs you will need a board 5 x 10 cm. Their height is 1-1.2 m.

The board is cut along the longitudinal vector. In this case, a slight angle is observed on one side.

The legs fit on the table top. During installation, they should be slightly apart.

They are attached outside the stiffeners. Fastening method - bolted. To strengthen their stability, you will need screeds. They need a 5 x 5 cm bar.

It is placed in the previously created groove from the bottom zone of the countertop. The sole is fixed with bolts. The disc is placed in the slot.

The table is varnished in 3-4 layers. This is a measure against moisture.

Turning on and off

The assembly of the main attachment for the circular saw is almost complete. It remains to establish the launch and shutdown of the tool. The simplest solution here is this - the start key is pulled together with a wire, and the saw is turned off by the mains wire.

A more complicated method - this key must be shunted. And the control buttons are displayed on the outer plane of the front stiffener.

The miter saw attachment is especially useful when you need good cross cuts.

Such a device can be made independently using the proposed technology:

1. The base is being assembled. Two parallel strips 2.5 x 5 cm are glued to the upper zone of plywood with parameters 1.8 x 30 x 122 cm. They are attracted with screws.
2. Corners are attached to them (their material is aluminum). Fixing method - countersunk head screws. Mounting angle - 90 degrees. Fastening occurs in parallel at a distance identical to the width of the saw base.
3. The tool is adjusted to cut the planks to a shallow depth at the base.
4. The device is fixed with clamps. The workpiece is placed under the corners. A cut is made.

If the saw does not go well, this area can be smeared with paraffin, but with a thin layer.

Long cut question

Creating a fixture for a hand-held circular saw that will help you make long cuts is relevant for many home craftsmen. It makes the job remarkably easy.

Its easy to make. DVP is taken. A sample is cut from this material. It is identical to the distance from the extreme side of the tool base to the extreme part of the disk from the inside.

When cutting, you need to rely on the length of the base of the tool.

The edge of the sample is aligned with the designation of the cut on the workpiece. A straight piece is applied to the second side. This is a guide. It is fixed with a clamp.

On the second marking, this operation is duplicated, but on the opposite side of the workpiece.

To create a template, it is best to use a router or a jigsaw.

If chips are obtained from the disc in work, you can not do without the following device for a hand-held circular saw, assembled by yourself.

Technology:

1. The hardboard element is cut out. Its density is 6 mm. When cutting, you need to focus on the width of the base of the tool.
2. The disk is removed. The protective cover is raised. The result of step 1 is attached to the base with double-sided tape. After that, the saw starts. The disc fits smoothly into the hardboard. It turns out zero clearance in work.

Sawing should be done with a slight return on the created base.

tenoning device

The tenoning device for a circular saw increases the efficiency and accuracy of the production of tenon-and-groove joints. They are involved in the assembly of various carpentry products: furniture, doors, frames, frames, etc.

With this device:

1. Workpieces are located without distortions.
2. Operations are repeated scrupulously.
3. The end result is of high quality.

Such a device can be purchased or made on your own. Experts recommend the first option. This is a full guarantee of achieving excellent results.

Often buy these models: Felisatti FTJ and Festool VS 600 GE.

This is a reliable and proven technique.

sharpening question

The circular saw should be sharpened when the following symptoms appear:

1. It becomes harder to work with her.
2. It leaves black marks on the material.
3. There is a foul odor and smoke.

Ideally, it should be sharpened on a professional machine. If not, you will need a tool for sharpening circular saws.

Necessary set for work:

1. Vice.
2. File with a flat functional side.
3. Bar.

You should work with gloves.

Sharpening steps:

1. Hard drive fixation. It is removed from the saw and fastened in a vise. In this case, wooden dies are used. You can leave it in the saw, but stick a bar between its teeth. The bar rests on some surface.
2. The initial clove is marked.
3. The back of the tooth is processed with a file. They need to swipe it several times. The effort is small. Each tooth is sharpened in turn. At the same time, the movements are uniform, the number of file passes is the same.
4. The anterior parts of the teeth are being processed. The principle is the same.

The points of the teeth should be perpendicular to the surface of the disc.

Then all the teeth are inspected for defects. Edges must not be shiny. If so, they are smoothly filed.

After that, the disk is checked in the case. It is placed in a saw. She turns on. A test block is used. If the saw is light, smooth and quiet, then the sharpening is of high quality.

Otherwise, you need to check the height of the teeth. To align them, you need to bring the marker to the working edge. Then the disk must go through the entire revolution in the opposite direction from rotation. All teeth are marked. On it you can align their height. The highest teeth are carefully processed with a file.

Conclusion

A circular saw is a very useful tool in the household. But it becomes even more effective if it is provided with the necessary devices.

An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Clings to the edges with a death grip.

The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a manual circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

A hand-held circular saw, or a circular saw as it is commonly called, is a versatile and valuable tool in the arsenal of a craftsman. It is irreplaceable when performing carpentry and joiner's works. The main task is cutting sheet material, as well as transverse and longitudinal cuts of lumber. The design of a saw allows to receive the exact line of a cut.

A circular saw is used for cutting sheet material, as well as transverse and longitudinal cuts in wood.

To improve accuracy and facilitate the performance of work, various devices and equipment are produced.

For all their merits, they have a fairly high cost, which is not affordable for everyone. And sometimes they are difficult to buy and deliver to the right address, especially in areas remote from large cities. Therefore, the logical way out of this situation is to make the necessary device for the circular with your own hands.

Devices for working with a manual circular saw can be very diverse: from primitive disposable stops to very complex and versatile devices. And if for the manufacture of the simplest fixtures it is enough just to pick up even pieces of thick plywood or boards of the required size, then more complex equipment will already be made using tools.

Materials and tools

The material from which devices for a circular saw are prepared can be selected from scraps of thick (at least 10 mm) plywood or hard wood (for example, birch) at hand.

Of the tools you will need:

• joiner's square for measuring and marking blanks;
• electric jigsaw or hand circular saw (for cutting blanks);
• drill (drilling mounting holes for fasteners);
• screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits for installing fasteners.

The process of manufacturing fixtures for a circular saw consists of several stages:

• a sketch is developed and detailing is thought out;
• material is selected;
• marking and cutting of the material;
• assembly and, if necessary, adjustment of devices.

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Guide for circular saw

The simplest device is a guide bar. You can easily get a straight cut. For manufacturing, you need an even straight bar of the required length. It, with the help of self-tapping screws (if allowed) or clamps, is attached to the material being processed. Fastening should be carried out at such a distance from the required cutting line that the position of the saw blade coincides with the markings when resting on the bar with the side sole of the circular saw. For a one-time cut, this method is suitable, however, when repeating the same type of operations, the procedure for marking and installing the bar will need to be repeated each time.

The guide bar can be improved by fixing it on a sheet of durable plywood 6-8 mm thick. One edge of the sheet when working will be aligned with the cut line. At a distance equal to the distance between the saw blade and the edge of the sole of the circular saw (working distance), a guide bar is attached to the plywood with self-tapping screws. When working, it will only be necessary to combine the working edge of the plywood sheet with the cutting line and fix the opposite edge with clamps.

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Pull-out protection: device nuances

The simplest devices can also include a bar fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the workpiece. This will avoid such an unpleasant effect as chips and tears. And if these defects do not play a role on the boards being cut, which will be used to make the frame of the house or formwork, then the cut must be even and clean during the production of carpentry.

For the manufacture of more complex universal devices, tools and a certain amount of materials will already be needed. The time spent on their manufacture will later be more than paid off by the ease of work, accuracy and, ultimately, saving the same time.

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Accessories

1. Blank template. If it is necessary to manufacture the same type of parts, you can use one of them as a guide template. To do this, a workpiece of the required length is cut off and a stop rail is fixed at one end. The width of the rail must match the working distance. When working with this device, the stop rail must fit snugly against the end face of the workpiece. So you can get a large number of parts of absolutely the same length without wasting time on marking the cutting line.
2. Cutting corner. For permanent use, you can make a cutting square. It consists of two massive wooden or plywood slats, fastened with self-tapping screws overlapping in the shape of the letter “T”. The length of the protruding ends of the “T” bar is aligned to match the working distance of the circular saw. Setting the leveled end of the crossbar against the marking line will allow you to get an accurate perpendicular cut.
3. Edge stop. The corner (edge) emphasis is a part of a standard complete set of a circular saw. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being processed. Using a self-made edge stop, due to the extended and longer base, you can get a cleaner and more accurate cut.

To make an edge stop, a stop rail and a base for a circular saw are cut out of 15 mm thick plywood. Keyways are selected in the base and thrust rail using a manual milling cutter. The dowels themselves are made from scraps of hard wood or from the same plywood and are attached to the grooves of the thrust rail. To reinforce the stop at an angle of 90 °, another rail of sufficient width is fixed to the stop rail, which will rest on the workpiece. Adjustment of the cutting distance from the edge of the workpiece is carried out by moving the stop rail along the guides, followed by fixing with a locking screw.

To install the screw in the base, a through groove is sawn through. To increase the cutting accuracy and increase the safety of work, it is recommended to use two screws. A hole is made in the base plate for the saw blade and a mounting system for the circular saw is installed. The design of the mounting system can be very diverse and will depend on the specific brand of saw. A common point for all options should be reliable fixation of the circular and the possibility of dismantling it from the device after work is completed. For the convenience of setting the required width of the cut of the material, a measuring tape is fixed on the front surface of the fixture base.

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Device for cutting beams

For cutting a large number of identical bars, it makes sense to make a device called a saddle. It consists of three parts connected in the form of the letter “P” (back and two sidewalls). The width of the backrest must correspond to the width of the sawn timber. The width of the sidewalls is chosen so long that they can provide sufficient support for the edge of the sole of the circular saw before the saw blade enters the workpiece material. Also, in the sidewalls, it is necessary to provide grooves or holes for secure fastening of the fixture on the processed timber using clamps.

Work with this device is carried out as follows:

• cut line is marked;
• at a distance equal to the working distance from the cutting line, the device is set and fixed;
• the beam is cut by moving the circular along the side surface of the fixture.

The advantage of this device is that there is no need to reconfigure when cutting a beam that is thicker than the saw blade overhang. To do this, two passes of the saw are made from opposite sides.

The design of the device for working with bars can be slightly improved by analogy with the modernized guide bar. To do this, bars are attached to one or both sidewalls at a distance equal to the working one, which serve as an emphasis for the sole of the circular. Thus, the edge of the side piece will coincide with the required cutting line.

1. Zero clearance

If the circular saw blade leaves torn fibers and chips on the edges of the cut, try to next addition. Cut out a piece of hardboard
6 mm thick across the width of the base of the circular saw.
Pull the disc away, lift the protective cover and stick the cut piece to the base with double-sided tape. Turn on the saw and slowly plunge the blade into the hardboard for a zero-gap kerf. Then saw with a small feed on the basis received.

Note: Be especially careful as the saw blade is open!

2. Set the saw on the line for an accurate cut

Spend a few minutes on making this template in the workshop, and the necessary precision cuts will be available anywhere. The fixture shown in the picture was designed for boards with a width of 150 mm, but it is not difficult to adjust the design to any required size or angle.

Make the jig with a slight allowance, then press the circular saw against the stop and saw off the edge of the base to the final length.
The sawn edge of the fixture defines the line along which a circular saw should make a cut.
Put a mark on the board where you want to cut it, press the bottom stop of the fixture against the edge of the board and align the edge of the base with the cut mark. By passing the saw through the fixture, it is possible to cut boards with amazing accuracy.

3. Finding a simple guide

How to make a straight cut with a portable circular saw? Of course, you can buy an expensive guide in the store or make it yourself in the workshop if you need to cut a lot of sheets. But there is an easier solution: make it from scraps that are lying around in the corner of the workshop.
Choose to make a factory edge strip of plywood or hardboard with a width of 250-300 mm for the manufacture of the guide. Fasten the strip along the cutting line so that saw base moved along the flat edge. If a foam backing is used to protect the saw blade, make cutouts in it for the jaws of the clamps.

4. Homemade cutting attachment for a circular saw

Clean and straight cross cuts can be difficult to make with a portable circular saw. It is almost impossible to guide the tool perfectly straight, and pieces of material usually fly off, leaving behind unsightly chips and split edges.
I suggest doing it yourself inexpensive fixture for cross cuts of several pieces of wood and aluminum angle. Assemble the base, for which, to the top side of a piece of chipboard or plywood measuring 18 × 300 × 1220 mm, glue and tighten with screws a pair of parallel planks measuring 25 × 50 mm.
Using countersunk screws, attach to the planks parallel at a distance equal to the width of the base of the circular saw, aluminum corners at an angle of 90 °. Adjust the saw so that it cuts through the planks and makes shallow cut at the base.
Fasten the fixture with clamps on the workbench, insert the workpiece under aluminum rails and make a cut. If the saw does not slide well along the guides, then a thin layer of paraffin or silicone spray help move it more smoothly.

5. Template for installing the guide

When to make long cuts with a portable circular saw, you have to spend a lot of time and take many measurements to set a straight guide against the marking line in exact accordance with the width of the saw base.
To simplify this procedure cut out the pattern from fiberboard (hardboard), equal in width to the distance from the edge of the base of the saw to the inner edge of the saw blade. Then cut the template to the length of the saw base. To use the template, align its edge with the cut mark on the workpiece, and attach a straight guide to the other side and secure it with a clamp.
Repeat this procedure on the second kerf mark on the other side of the workpiece to be sawn. Similar patterns can be made for jigsaw or milling cutter.