Advantages and methods of growing plants in hydroponics. Hydroponic Plant Growing System Benefits of Hydroponic Growing

The most favorite type of indoor plants for many gardeners is ficuses. These representatives of the flora have long become a kind of symbol of home warmth and the special comfort of childhood, which is often remembered later for many years.

This article will tell about the features of caring for these pets, in particular, how to water the ficus, the moisturizing technique and its frequency.

Common types

For the most part, ficuses are evergreens, but there are also deciduous plants among them. A huge number of very different species and subspecies (about eight hundred) surprises with a variety of shapes and colors. We will focus on the most famous and popular of them - Benjamin's ficus and its rubber-bearing counterparts - elastic ficus.

From the whole complex of caring activities for them, we will single out only one and learn how to water ficus at home.

ficus benjamina

Native to the humid tropics of Asian countries, the ficus, named after the famous biologist Benjamin D. Jackson, has become a hit in home floriculture, perfectly combined with many plant species that adorn modern interiors. This is an evergreen small tree from the mulberry family with a real trunk covered with gray-beige bark, a branched crown and dense, glossy, elegant leaves with a characteristic pointed tip. There are three varieties of this ficus: large-leaved, with medium-sized leaves and small-leaved, or dwarf. In each subspecies, there are up to thirty varieties of plants that differ in color and shape of leaves. The topic of the publication - how to water ficus at home, is somewhat narrow, and we will consider it as an aspect in the general complex of caring activities.

Features of care

Ficus tissues contain an aggressive milky sap that can irritate the skin upon contact.

It is impossible to achieve flowering at home, but flower growers do not set such goals, since the plant is quite decorative and is valued precisely by its luxurious crown, which tolerates pruning and shaping in accordance with the wishes of the owner. Benjamin's ficus, which is widespread in the home interior, is very capricious, so it is important to know the features of caring for it, in particular, how to water the ficus.

Light-loving, but not tolerant of direct sunlight, the ficus does not like drafts, sudden cooling and frequent rearrangements, it can shed its leaves. Therefore, the plant should initially choose a permanent place. A native of tropical rainforests, he transferred his addictions to home floriculture. It is moisture-loving, but also sensitive to excessive moisture, which is detrimental if it is permanent.

Watering rules

Florists especially focus on how to water Benjamin's ficus, since moderate watering is one of the main conditions, the correct implementation of which is the key to the successful development of the plant.

What is important here is not regularity, but the emergence of conditions for its implementation. Therefore, the ficus is moistened as necessary, usually focusing on the state of the top layer of soil in the container. Its drying to a depth of 1-2 cm, and for bulk containers with large plants - 4-5 cm, signals a beginning lack of moisture and requires watering. Serious problems can cause the plant to dry out the soil, as well as excessive moisture. An indicator of violations is the condition of the leaves of the plant. With excessive watering, the soil layer practically does not dry out, the apical shoots die off, the leaves fade and fall off, and an unpleasant smell from the soil appears. With insufficient moisture, the leaves curl up, dry out and fall off, the shoots become brittle and brittle, and the soil moves away from the walls of the container.

Water quality requirements

Melt or rain water is considered ideal for irrigation, impeccable in softness and other basic indicators. For these purposes, well-settled tap water is also suitable. The water temperature should vary between 23-25 ​​˚С, since cold water can cause various putrefactive processes in the root system.

How to water ficus benjamin at home

Let's talk about irrigation technology. Wet the clod of earth evenly, without washing away the soil in one place, after which the soil is carefully loosened, trying not to damage the roots.

In summer, in hot weather, the plant is watered 2-3 times a week. With the advent of autumn, the intensity of moisture is gradually reduced. How to water Benjamin's ficus at home in winter? When the dormant period begins, this procedure is usually included in the weekly watering schedule no more than 1 time. However, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil, and if necessary, adjustments are made to the proposed schedule.

Dry air is another factor that should not be allowed, since it can provoke not only leaf fall, but also an attack by a spider mite. Both of these are a very unpleasant phenomenon, nullifying the decorative effect of culture. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain a sufficiently high level of humidity in the room, spraying the tree daily, and with the onset of the hot season - several times a day.

Transplants and subsequent watering

Young plants grow quickly and are transplanted annually in the spring. From the age of four, transplants are carried out every 2 years, adding fresh, nutritious and loose soil to the container with the plant, if necessary. The condition of the soil signals the need for a transplant: if the soil in the container dries up quickly, it means that the roots lack space and nutrition, therefore, it is time to replant the plant. Before this, the culture is intensively watered to make it easier to remove from the pot. Then the ficus is transplanted into a new container with fresh earth. How to water Benjamin's ficus after a transplant? After the plant has been “relocated”, it is watered again and left alone until the top layer dries.

Rubber plant: how to water a ficus

The second name of this home culture is ficus elastica. In polarity, it is hardly inferior to Benjamin's ficus, decorating modern homes and successfully competing with the most sought-after ornamental plants.

An unusually decorative ficus is also completely unpretentious in its care. Dense leathery leaves are usually dark green, but there are also variegated specimens, the leaves of which are decorated with a yellow border. The noticeably greater unpretentiousness of elastic ficus in comparison with Benjamin's ficus does not affect the features of care. It is transplanted with the same regularity, they monitor the condition of the soil, periodically feed it, that is, they carry out the necessary operations required by all species. How to water ficus? At home, in winter, a dormant period begins, when all processes in the tissues of the plant slow down. At this time, it is especially important not to flood the crop, so close attention to the condition of the soil is necessary. As already mentioned, the drying of the top layer of soil is a signal for watering. By the beginning of summer, the frequency of moistening is adjusted to 2-3 times a week.

The method of growing plants in hydroponics is to refuse the use of a soil mixture. Instead, an artificial substrate and a nutrient solution are used, from which the roots receive all the substances necessary for the culture. Mastering the technology of hydroponics is not difficult for you, and if this technique seems effective to you, you can gradually transfer most of your “green pets” to it.

And for indoor plants, hydroponics has its advantages: airing of the roots is ensured in expanded clay, since this material does not compact, like earth for flowers. But there are some rules you should follow when growing flowers in hydroponics, especially with regard to watering and top dressing. It is somewhat more difficult to transfer plants from the ground to hydroponics, but this technology is quite possible to master.

Growing home flowers in hydroponics: equipment and materials

Hydroponic plants are water crops. For life, such crops require only water enriched with nutrients.

To grow plants in hydroponics, you will need the following equipment and supplies.

Capacities. Unlike keeping plants in the ground, two containers are always used here.

• An inner plastic pot with holes or slots where the claydite holding the plant is located. This pot also has a fixture for attaching a water level gauge.
• The outer pot is selected in such a size that it fits the inner pot. It can be made of waterproof ceramic or plastic - it's a matter of taste and financial possibilities. The outer vessel contains the nutrient solution (water with dissolved fertilizer). There are also larger containers in which they put several inner pots with plants.

Water level indicator. This is a very important piece of equipment for home hydroponics, it is a plastic tube with a float that signals you when to add water. The index has a three-level scale: minimum, optimum and maximum. There is a mark on the top end of the float that tells you when to add the nutrient solution.

Supports. If a plant in the ground rests on a trellis of twigs, then a plant of the same species in hydroponics needs the same trellis. The only difference is that only plastic supports should be used in hydroponics. For climbing and climbing plants, there are special supports that are fixed at the bottom of the inner pot, and also lengthened with nozzles. This home hydroponics equipment is made of plastic with a rough surface or covered with cork. Supports made from natural materials such as bamboo or rattan should not be used in hydroponics.

Expanded clay. The famous brown balls are needed to keep the plant in the pot. Expanded clay from specialized gardening stores should be used, as expanded clay used in construction often contains salts that can harm plants. Expanded clay for hydroponics comes in three different fractions, the smallest of which is suitable mainly for cuttings. The longer the water supply should be kept, the larger fraction of expanded clay should be used.

Care of houseplants in hydroponics

Many agro-care measures for the care of flowers when grown in hydroponics are no different from caring for plants in a soil culture.

Location. If a plant in the ground loves the sun, then in hydroponics it needs a sunny place.

Pruning. Shortening shoots, removing wilted parts of the plant, cleaning the leaves - all this when growing plants in hydroponics is done in the same way as species growing in the ground.

Protection. Pest control remains much the same, even if some argue that hydroponic flowers never get sick. What hydroponic plants don't have are certain pests, such as nematodes, that can only exist in the ground. Aphids, spider mites, whiteflies occur both on those and on other species. And the measures to combat them are almost the same.

Transfer. Hydroponic plants at home should also be repotted when so many roots have formed in the inner pot that there is no room for expanded clay. It's time when its roots have already crushed the pot. Unlike vessels with earth, take a large enough container. In this case, there will be more time until the next transplant, and the roots will remain dormant longer.

Watering. If this is your first time growing hydroponically at home, then pour enough water so that the level indicator rises only to the middle mark, in no case more. When watering plants in hydroponics, some features should be considered:

• Add water or nutrient solution only when the red pointer reaches the "minimum" mark.
• If the water level is constantly maintained at the maximum level, then soon all voids with air will be filled with water and the plant will choke, just as it happens with plants in the ground if they are watered too much.
• Topping up water when growing plants on home hydroponics with your own hands to the maximum mark should only be done by very many drinking plants, placed in a sunny place, or when leaving on vacation.
• When the level indicator has reached the minimum mark, it is better to postpone watering for another two to three days.
• Sometimes it happens that the water level indicator still remains at the maximum mark after 2 weeks. In this case, you should carefully remove the inner pot from the outer one and check whether expanded clay balls or too long roots interfere with the level indicator. Important As with soil cultivation, warm water should be used for hydroponic plants. Nutrient solution temperatures below 15°C are harmful to plants.

What fertilizers are needed for growing plants in hydroponics?

Water alone is not enough to feed the plant. To obtain a good nutrient solution, fertilizer must be added to the water. Ordinary flower fertilizers are suitable for this only conditionally. It is necessary to use a special fertilizer that contains nutrients in a form that is easily absorbed by plants.

Fertilizers for hydroponics are sold mainly in the form of liquid concentrated or so-called ion-exchange fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers They simultaneously regulate the pH of the water. This means that they can be used for tap water of any quality, even with a high lime content. Liquid fertilizers are added to the irrigation water according to the dosage instructions on the packaging.

Ion exchange fertilizers. When using an ion exchanger, you only need to fertilize once every 4-5 months. Follow the application recommendations and determine the next fertilization time. Similar fertilizers exist:

• In granular form, the appropriate portion of which is poured onto expanded clay and washed off with water;
• In the form of a nutritious battery, which is attached to the bottom of the inner pot.

DIY hydroponics nutrient solution change

From time to time, you should completely change the hydroponic nutrient solution and wash the pots. When using liquid fertilizers, this should be done after about 8 weeks, and when using ion exchangers, only when a new portion of fertilizer is applied after 4-5 months.

If you use a hydroponics nutrient solution for too long, constantly adding fertilizer to it, then some salts that are not consumed by plants accumulate in it in such a concentration that they damage the roots. When changing the solution and washing the pots, the expanded clay and plant roots are washed at the same time.

Changing your hydroponic nutrient solution is very easy. Do it like this:

• Remove the inner pot from the outer.
• Take out the water level indicator.
• Put the pot in the bath and rinse the expanded clay for 10 minutes with water from the shower (not lower than 15 ° C).
• The outer pot should also be thoroughly rinsed to remove any remaining old nutrient solution.
• Place the inner pot with the water level indicator back into the outer pot.
• Pour in the nutrient solution.

Converting houseplants to hydroponics (with video)

Having gained the first experience of keeping plants in hydroponics at home with your own hands, you may have a desire to transfer all plants to this system. For many cultures, this is not difficult, but sometimes plants do not tolerate this procedure. Young, not yet very large, healthy plants have the greatest chance of success. Old copies are best left in their familiar environment.

The transfer of plants to hydroponics is carried out as follows. When transferring plants from soil culture to hydroponics, you should proceed very carefully to increase the chances of a positive result:

• Remove the plant from the pot and free the roots from the ground with your hands as far as possible.
• Rinse off the soil remaining on the roots with warm water, preferably in the shower.
• If necessary, soak the clods in a bucket of water overnight.
• Rotten or very long roots should be trimmed. The roots should occupy no more than two-thirds of the height of the pot.
• Fill one third of the pot with expanded clay soaked in water for several hours and spread the roots over it. Add expanded clay to the edges of the pot. Fill with warm water without nutrients to medium level. Place a plastic bag over the top of the pot to prevent evaporation.
• Remove the package after 2-3 weeks. From the first addition of water at a minimum level, fertilize regularly.

It is difficult to convert from soil to hydroponics all plants with very large and intertwined root systems such as ferns, begonias and Anthurium.

The following species grow especially well in hydroponics:

(Streptocarpus)

Spathiphyllum ( spatiphyllum)

(Anthurium)

Kalanchoe ( Kalanchoe blossfetdiana)

Abutilon hybrid - a plant that blooms beautifully in spring and summer. Bright orange flowers, similar to lanterns, effectively stand out against the background of greenery.

Abutilon grows on all previously mentioned solutions, is easily cut and rooted well in expanded clay. Rooted cuttings are planted in double flowerpots or pots.
In order for abutilon to bloom annually, in early spring it should be heavily cut and placed in a bright place. Unpruned plants become bare and bloom poorly. Roots die off in winter.

Aloe - tree-like, soapy, Abyssinian - valuable succulents with elongated juicy fleshy leaves with thorns along the edges. Propagated by cuttings, which are well rooted in expanded clay.
Young plants are planted in ordinary clay pots with a diameter of 9-11 cm, filled with clean coarse quartz sand. It is best to water these plants with an LTA solution, as succulents are usually watered. A pot of aloe is placed on a saucer, in which sand is poured in a thin layer to absorb excess solution
The roots of aloe are weak, in an aqueous nutrient solution they easily mucus and fall off; The pH should be maintained at 4.5-4.6.

Asparagus pinnatis and Asparagus toichais - ornamental deciduous plants. Shoots grow up to 150-180 cm and are covered with small soft needle-like cladodes. These asparagus develop well on solutions of BILU (at pH = 6.0-6.4) and Gerique. Under production conditions, they are grown for cutting, and for indoor gardening - in vases, double flowerpots and boxes, where they grow for 4-5 years without a transplant; then rejuvenation by division is required. The shoots of the thinnest asparagus easily take root in expanded clay; shoots are taken on cuttings 15-18 cm long. Roots almost do not die in winter. Asparagus is a very valuable culture for industrial hydropopics.

asparagus sprengera - a spectacular ampelous plant with falling shoots reaching a length of 130-180 cm or more. It grows best on a solution of BILU at pH = 6.2, beautifully blooms and bears abundant fruit.
Asparagus Sprenger does well in double pots, vases, amples and boxes. In small vases, it grows for 3-4 years, then it is necessary to divide it, since the roots fill the entire vase. Propagated by division, the roots are strong; for the winter they partially disappear, and in the spring they are restored again. Asparagus Sprenger is widely used for cutting.

Aspidistra high - stemless rhizomatous plant with long-petioled oval-elongated leathery leaves. Blooms inconspicuously. Suitable for growing in double flowerpots, regular pots and on racks (for cutting). High aspidistra propagates in separate parts of rhizomes with 3-4 leaves. It works better with BILU solutions at pH = 6.2. The roots persist in winter and do not die off. After 4-5 years they are divided and transplanted.

Japanese aucuba (Fatsia) - an excellent resistant houseplant with dark green leaves and golden spots on them, easily cuttings in expanded clay. Young plants grow well in double flowerpots No. 3 on nutrient solutions of LTA, BILU, Zherik. In winter, the roots partially fall off, and in the spring they are restored; pH should be equal to 5.8-6.0.

begonias - both deciduous, bushy, and beautifully flowering - grow successfully in inert substrates. Different types of begonias grow better on the following solutions:

All of the above types of begonias are very decorative. Most of these plants have more original leaves: oblique, whole or lobed (pincer begonia), often strongly hairy, on large succulent cuttings. All bush begonias in double flowerpots bloom beautifully, turning into powerful densely leafy plants.
Deciduous begonias are great in hanging vases, boxes, and regular pots with a tray. Their huge colorful leaves, slightly hanging down, form a spectacular composition. In flowerpots and vases, they grow without a transplant for several years.
The roots of begonias are thin, delicate, strongly branched. In winter, they partially disappear. Cuttings, both stem and deciduous, take root well in expanded clay.
Billbergia drooping is an original, undemanding, short-stemmed epiphytic plant with elongated greenish-gray leathery and slightly curved leaves. The flowers are collected in drooping inflorescences with bright bracts. Billbergia grows well in double flowerpots on a solution of BILU at pH = 6.4. Blooms annually. After a few years, old plants can be divided, and young cuttings can be planted in a regular pot or double flowerpot. In winter, the roots remain in the solution and do not die off.

False grapes (room grapes) - a valuable climbing plant, grows well in expanded clay, gravel, slag on solutions of BILU, Zherik, Zherik-2 in double flowerpots, amples (Fig. 11) and boxes at pH = 6.2. In expanded clay, cuttings root perfectly in a short time and can be planted for further culture in the room. To give the plant a certain shape, a trellis made of bamboo, shingles or sticks is fixed in expanded clay and the stems are guided along it. Without support, the shoots will hang down, like an ampelous plant, reaching 1.5-2 m in length. In winter, the roots partially die off.

Heliotrope Peruvian - perennial flowering plant. Dark purple small flowers are collected in large velvety inflorescences, emitting a sweet smell of vanilla. The leaves are small, hairy, dull green. During the summer, the heliotrope reaches 40-50 cm in height and blooms profusely until autumn.
In hydroponic culture, heliotrope can be grown as a beautifully flowering annual plant. It can successfully grow in hydraulic boxes or double flowerpots on a balcony, on a window, in open ground conditions. Heliotrope blooms especially well on a solution of LTA. Heliotrope is easily propagated by green cuttings, rooting well in expanded clay on a nutrient solution of low concentration.

Geranium (pelargonium) ivy and zonal - public and common indoor nicely

Rice. 11. Flowers in an ample.

flowering plants. Particularly good varieties of ivy geranium Marinka and zonal geranium Meteor.
In early spring, geranium cuttings are rooted in expanded clay. Ivy geranium is planted in hanging vases, and zonal geranium is planted in pots, in double flowerpots and amply. On solutions of BILU and LTA at a pH of 6.4-6.8, geranium blooms profusely all summer until late autumn. In winter, most of the roots die off and the plants are at rest (kept in a cool place) at a room temperature of 10-12 ° C. In the spring, geraniums are pruned, giving the plant a beautiful shape.
In flowerpots, geraniums can grow for several years, turning into large, profusely flowering show specimens.

Gloxinia hybrid - a beautiful flowering plant with large funnel-shaped velvety flowers of blue, red, pink or white. Leaves on petioles are green, juicy, velvety. Gloxinia works better on a solution of LTA at pH = 6. Seedlings, young nodules or rooted cuttings are planted in small flowerpots filled with crushed expanded clay. Before the appearance and development of roots, young plants are watered with a nutrient solution. They develop quickly and bloom well until late autumn. After the plants have flowered, the roots die off. Flowerpots with gloxinia tubers are set in a dark, cool place for 4-5 months. Tubers are periodically viewed. In January, they begin to revive them by watering them with a nutrient solution of low concentration, and rearrange them in a warmer and brighter place. With the advent of sprouts, a solution of half concentration is given, then in March they switch to a normal solution. Growing, the tubers form a rosette of leaves. To rejuvenate the old tubers at the beginning of spring (when they start growing) are divided into 2 parts and planted again in the substrate.

Hydrangea garden - a deciduous shrub that blooms magnificently in early spring and summer. The inflorescences are dense, large, spherical in shape, of various colors: hot pink, red, purple, white. The leaves are dark green, opposite, juicy.
Hydrangea blooms well on Gericux's solution, and the pink variety acquires a blue color; pH = 5.0-6.0.
Agrotechnics for growing hydrangeas is quite complicated. In early spring, the lower, basal small shoots are cut from flowering plants and rooted in expanded clay in a 40% solution of Zherike. After rooting, the cuttings are planted in double flowerpots and given a normal solution, and with the onset of heat, the plants are installed on the balcony, in a greenhouse.
All summer the hydrangea is kept in open ground conditions; during rain, plants are covered with frames. In autumn, plants are brought into cellars, placed in piers. In October, if the leaves have not fallen off, they are sniffed and hydrangeas are transferred to a solution of low concentration (40-50% of the norm). From the end of October to January - February, the plants stand in the cellars at a temperature of 2-4 ° C. Transferring the plants to a room or greenhouse, the temperature is raised to 14-16 ° C. Then the hydrangeas are placed in the light, often and abundantly sprayed with warm water, ventilating well room. If the leaves that appear do not have a dark green color, it is necessary to add nitrogen salt to the solution or carry out foliar feeding with nitrate (at the rate of 0.1 g per 1 liter of water).
With the development of new shoots, they are tied to pegs. The root system that has fallen off during the winter is quickly restored. If all the roots coming out of the inner pot have fallen off, then during the dormant period (in a leafless state), the hydrangea is occasionally watered so that the roots in expanded clay do not dry out and die.
Hydrangea blooms in March-April and blooms for more than a month. After flowering mature plants<отдыхают>in greenhouses, on the balcony, after which they are again prepared for flowering.

Dracaena mechelifolia and odorous dracaena - indoor-resistant plants. Their straight slender trunks are decorated with regular elongated linear leaves, beautifully curving down. Dracaena flowers are white, collected in terminal panicles.
Dracaena mechelistnaya and odorous grow in one trunk and do not have rhizomes. They grow wonderfully in Gericux's nutrient solution at pH = 6-6.2, and are easily propagated by seeds and apical aerial layering. For abduction, it is enough to make a circular incision around the top (at a distance of 20 cm from it), which must be overlaid with wet moss, tied with a film and periodically moistened. After a month and a half, roots will appear. Then the layers are cut off and carefully, so as not to damage the delicate roots, planted in expanded clay.
Dracaena successfully reproduce by cuttings. Cut shoots take root well in expanded clay, in sand. Young plants are planted in double flowerpots, in boxes, gradually transferring to Gerique's solution (100 percent). In winter, during the dormant period of plants, especially in a cool room, where transpiration is slower, a weakened (40-50%) solution is given.
In hydroponic culture, dracaena grow for several years without any transplant. Caring for them is the most common. Roots withstand winter conditions well.

Drimiopsis pickaxe - a common moisture-loving bulbous plant. Arrow-shaped leaves with small dark green spots, which are clearly visible only in summer, depart from numerous fused bulbs on straight petioles. Drimiopsis blooms in April.
Small white flowers of an inconspicuous appearance are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences.
For beginner amateur growers mastering the hydroponic method of growing, drymiopsis (along with Tradescantia) is the easiest and most grateful material. These plants take root very quickly and grow well.
Drimiopsis propagates in the spring, when it is easy to separate and plant a greenish bulb. Transplanted young plants quickly grow into a rosette of numerous leaves.
Drimiopsis is also easily propagated by leaves: they are able to take root almost all year round. To do this, a well-developed large leaf should be carefully torn off from the very base of the bulb, retaining the lower expanded whitish part of the leaf petiole. Such a leaf quickly takes root both in pure water and in a weak (10-20 percent) nutrient solution. After 2 weeks, in the middle of the expanded base of the petiole, a kidney develops - the rudiment of the bulb - and roots. With the appearance of a young sprout and onion, the plant is transplanted into a substrate using an LTA solution; pH = 5.5.
In a hydroponic culture, drimiopsis grows without a transplant for 5-6 years or more, growing luxuriantly. In winter, drimiopsis rests, stops reproducing, but does not shed its leaves (when it is grown on an earthen basis, the leaves often die off for the winter).

cacti. Of the cacti in hydroponic culture, 2 species grow most successfully: cut zygocactus and hybrid epiphyllum, or phylocactus. For them, solutions of Gerique and LTA are used.
Cactus cuttings take root well in crushed expanded clay, after which they are transplanted into ordinary pots with sand or fine expanded clay. Cacti also grow in double flowerpots and flat decorative bowls. In winter, these plants are watered with a nutrient solution less frequently than in summer; pH = 5.5-6.0.

Ethiopian calla - a beautifully flowering plant, giving a first-class cut in industrial floriculture and long-term flowering in the room in double flowerpots and vases. In boxes, it can be planted along with Kredner's begonia, Guinean tradescantia, Surikov's clivia, pinnate asparagus, Kerhovean's arrowroot and other ornamental plants.
Callas are marsh plants. They are very moisture-loving and grow well (for 6 years or more) in gravel, expanded clay, peat on nutrient solutions of Zherik and BILU at pH = 5.0-6.0. They have large, shiny, wide arrow-shaped juicy leaves 60-80 cm long on fleshy tender petioles. The leaves are decorative and can be used cut for flower arrangements on their own or with 1-2 flowers in floor vases, in ceramic holders or on headbands in flat wide bowls.
Calla lilies are original in their structure. A juicy large flower arrow ends with a wide asymmetrical bell of white or yellow. This<чехол>surrounds a narrow cob, consisting of densely seated inconspicuous flowers.
The roots of callas are cord-like, fleshy. They depart from a juicy tuber, around which a large number of<деток>- nodules with small weak leaves (they must be removed).
Calla lilies can be propagated by seeds, which are easy to obtain in hydroponic culture. Seedlings grow (throughout the year) in ordinary bowls filled with crushed expanded clay. Vegetatively, calla lilies are propagated by layering, which is separated from the mother plant in June - July, after flowering. Layers take the largest and planted 12-16 pieces per square meter. The first days water is supplied to the substrate, then a nutrient solution of 50% concentration, and after 2-3 weeks - the usual concentration. The air temperature in the greenhouse should be approximately 16-18 ° C with a humidity of 80-85%". At higher temperatures and lack of light, calla lilies leaves stretch, break easily, acquire a light green color, and the number of flowers decreases sharply.
From the beginning of flowering, callas are periodically given foliar top dressing with microelements (boron, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, potassium iodide, copper) and are often sprayed with clean water.
Timely planted plants bloom from mid-October - early November and bloom through May. After flowering they need<отдых>; the leaves turn yellow and the growth of callas stops, although the roots continue to develop. During this period, all children are removed from the main bush, as they weaken the tubers and delay further flowering of callas. Yellow leaves are also removed (cut out). After<отдыха>calla lilies develop powerful leaves and begin to bloom again.

Calceolaria hybrid - herbaceous beautifully flowering two-year-old covered ground. The leaves are tender, light green, when dried out, the coma (in land culture) easily withers and dies. The flowers are large, monophonic, two-lipped. The lower lip is large, spherical (inflated), the upper one is barely noticeable, short. Often the flowers have a variety of shading in the form of spots, dots, marble painting. Varieties with a red tonality of flowers are especially spectacular. Calceolaria propagates in a hydroponic culture in two ways - by seeds and cuttings. In the first case, the seeds are sown in fine expanded clay (fraction diameter 0.1-0.2 cm) in shallow bowls in July. Seedlings dive twice into the same substrate, increasing the feeding area, and then young plants are planted in double flowerpots, boxes or ordinary peat pots. The pot with the plant is kept on a saucer and watered with a nutrient solution and clean water (once with a solution, another time with water). By autumn, compact rosettes of leaves develop.
Calceolaria hibernates in cool (5-6 ° C), well-ventilated, bright greenhouses or rooms. In the spring, she starts to grow, and from that moment she is transferred to a nutrient solution of 100% concentration. In March - April, the plant develops a branched, slightly leafy herbaceous stem, ending in a beautiful inflorescence with original flowers.
After flowering, the calceolaria is not thrown away, but only the peduncle is cut off. In summer, young shoots appear on the stem, which in July - August can be used for cuttings. Shoots are cut into expanded clay, and after rooting they are transplanted into flowerpots. In the future, they proceed in the same way as with seed propagation.
Best of all, calceolaria blooms on the nutrient solution of Zherique at pH = 6.0-6.2.

Cypress pyramidalis - a valuable coniferous plant for decorating cool rooms, lobbies, halls. It grows well on a nutrient solution of Zherik (in the summer they give a 100% solution, in the winter - a 50% solution); pH = 6.2. Young plants grown in the ground, or cuttings rooted in expanded clay, are planted in double flowerpots. The roots of the pyramidal cypress partially die off for the winter.

Clivia meerkat - a bulbous beautifully flowering and decorative deciduous plant with dark green belt-invisible leaves. Her inflorescences are large and consist of several cinnabar-orange lily-like flowers.
Clivia blooms in winter or early spring. Works great on a solution of BILU at pH = 5.9-6.0. Thick cord-like roots do not die off in winter.
Clivia is propagated by layering, which in the spring after flowering separates from the mother plant, or<черенком>. <Черенок>clivia is a young bunch of leaves cut off at the base, which takes root in expanded clay for two months, after which it is planted in a double flowerpot, where clivia grows for several years without a transplant.
With a hydroponic culture of clivia, it is necessary to ensure that the air-humid zone does not exceed 6 cm. Otherwise, the roots may grow excessively (due to the aerial part).

Coleus Verschaffelt - semi-shrub, valued for its bright showy leaves. Its stems are ribbed, tetrahedral; leaves petiolate, ovoid, pointed, green in combination with red or burgundy. There are emerald, yellow, red leaves, etc. The flowers are collected in medium-sized terminal brushes, inconspicuous, lilac-lilac.
Coleus loves light and warmth. In winter, at low temperatures, it drops its leaves, often rots and dies; in spring (in March) it is easily propagated by seeds and green cuttings in expanded clay on a weak solution (20%) Zherik or BILU or pH = 6-6.5. Young plants are transplanted into double flowerpots or boxes, where they grow magnificently during the summer, reaching the maximum effect of leaf color.
In winter, coleus do not grow and are in relative peace. At this time, a half-strength nutrient solution is used for them.
In hydroponic culture, coleus can be used as flyers for the exterior decoration of balconies, windows, etc.

Equal leafed bell (May bell) - an elegant ampelous plant with flowing thin shoots, lushly covered with small light green leaves. Flowers small, white. From spring and throughout the summer, they abundantly cover the entire plant.
Equifoliate bell succeeds well on a solution of LTA and propagates by green cuttings, which are successfully rooted in expanded clay and transplanted into ampli vases; pH = 6.0-6.1.

Cordilina apical - indoor deciduous plant that grows beautifully in expanded clay on nutrient solutions of BILU and Zherik in double flowerpots. It not only grows beautifully, but also retains leaves throughout the trunk. Propagated in spring - cuttings and layering. In hydroponic culture, cordilina apical is stable and grows well.

Ligustrums - brilliant, evergreen, Japanese - ornamental deciduous shrubs of graceful shape with beautiful leathery leaves. They grow in gravel or expanded clay - in double flowerpots and boxes. In early spring, ligustrums should be trimmed to give them the most beautiful shape and rejuvenation.
Ligustrums grow best on nutrient solutions of Zherik and GDR-2. Easily propagated by green cuttings; pH = 6.4-6.6. Shiny arrowroot and Kerkhovean arrowroot are valuable houseplants. Kerkhoveana arrowroot is especially good, which forms powerful plants in hydroponic culture with numerous shoots and beautiful oval leaves with dark spots that stand out sharply on them.
Arrowroots are easily propagated by cuttings that take root well in expanded clay. Both of its species are grown in double flowerpots and in boxes.
In a hydroponic culture, arrowroot grows superbly, greatly overtaking plants cultivated on land mixtures in growth. The most suitable for arrowroot are nutrient solutions BILU, LTA, Zherike; pH = 5.8-6.2.

Myrtle ordinary - indoor evergreen tree with small fragrant leaves and white flowers. Well propagated by cuttings. The cuttings rooted in expanded clay are transplanted into small (No. 4) flowerpots or a pot with a plant is placed in an ordinary vase, the neck of which is suitable for this pot.
Myrtle grows well on the GDR-2 nutrient solution at pH = 6.2-6.4.

Monstera is delicious - a magnificent indoor deciduous plant with ornamental leaves on long petioles and numerous aerial cord-like roots extending from the stems. Monstera grows in cool and moderately warm rooms, easily propagated by cuttings - part of a stem with 1-2 small leaves that take root in water, in expanded clay. The cuttings are transplanted into double flowerpots. They grow well for several years without a transplant, increasing in size every year.
The best nutrient solution for Monstera is Zhe Rique; pH = 6.0-5.2. Oleander (Nerium oleander) is an evergreen shrub with flexible shoots and leathery leaves. This ornamental leafy plant grows well on nutrient solutions of GDR-2, Zherique or BILU, easily propagated by cuttings (spring and summer) in water and expanded clay.In order for the oleander to bloom, it is necessary to keep it in a sunny place and cut off old shoots, since the inflorescences of this plant are laid only on young annual shoots; pH = 6, 2.

Ophiopogon Yaburan and Ophiopogon spike-shaped - unpretentious plants with narrow, long lily green leaves. There are varieties with white or yellow stripes on the leaves. Ophiopogon inflorescences are upright arrows. In the first species, the flowers are white, in the second, they are lilac, and the fruits (berries) are bluish. Both species reproduce by a bunch of leaves separated with a part of the rhizome. Layers are planted in double flowerpots, vases.
Ophiopogones work well on nutrient solutions of BILU or GDR-2; pH = 5.8-6.0.

Palms. In the greenhouse of the Forestry Engineering Academy named after S. M. Kirov, young palm trees have been growing in double flowerpots for three years already: the low hamerops palm on the BILU solution and the date palm on the Zherique solution. They develop satisfactorily, partially shed their roots for the winter. The leaves of these palms are dark green, normally formed.

ferns especially good in double drawers and flowerpots, in low hanging vases. Such, for example, are bulbous asplenium, Cretan bracken, sublime nephrolepis, scatti and hearty. They have magnificent, beautifully curved, delicate and slender (leaves), divided into small segments.
Under room conditions, ferns are grown in amples and in double flowerpots on solutions of GDR-2 or Gerique. On the BILU solution, they grow somewhat worse.
In production conditions, where there are hydraulic racks, nephrolepis should be planted to obtain a cut (like asparagus). Green fronds of ferns can be used not only for arrangements of cut carnations, roses or sweet peas, but also as an independent cut for vases.
Young plants planted in expanded clay develop well and grow for several years without transplanting and dividing.

Petunia hybrid large-flowered - a herbaceous plant with large delicate double flowers of bright colors. Leaves and stem are light green, sticky.
Petunia hybrid large-flowered is widely used both for decorating rooms and for decorating balconies in summer. It blooms profusely and develops well on a nutrient solution of LTA.
In expanded clay, petunia is propagated by cuttings. Young plants are pinched and cut 2-3 times so that the plant is low, bushy and blooms most beautifully and abundantly.
In rooms, it is better to maintain a one-year culture of petunia, cutting off a shoot from last year's plant every spring; pH = 5.8-6.0.

Pittosporum Tobira - a beautiful evergreen houseplant. The leaves are entire, without hairs, rather large, obovate, collected at the ends of the stems. Cuttings easily root in expanded clay. Pittosporum grows well in double flowerpots on nutrient solutions of LTA and Zherik, care for him is normal. In the spring, to form a bush, the plant must be cut. Once every few years, it is necessary to rejuvenate the stem, remove part of the roots or transplant the plants into large flowerpots.

Wax ivy (hoya carnosa) - a beautifully flowering climbing plant. The leaves are oval, thick, as if waxy. Small waxy pinkish-yellow flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Waxy ivy grows well in double flowerpots on nutrient solutions of LTA, BILU or Zherik; 5-6-node cuttings are easily rooted in expanded clay not only in a nutrient solution, but also in clean water. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into flowerpots.
Liana-like stems of ivy are tied to trellises of thin pegs set in expanded clay, so that plants can be forced to grow in the same plane. In hanging vases, they will grow like hanging plants.
Common ivy (Hedera helix) - evergreen<лазящее>a plant with aerial roots attached to a support. Its leaves are dark green, leathery, palmately lobed with a heart-shaped base. This is a shade-tolerant and very undemanding plant. Its cuttings root easily on expanded clay substrate in water or nutrient solution.
For growing ivy in double pots, support is needed. When placed in flat hanging vases, it becomes an ampelous plant. In this case, the shoots fall beautifully, reaching a length of 3 m.
Common ivy grows well on nutrient solutions of BILU and Zherik at pH = 5.0 - 6.0. It is transplanted every few years, when the roots become cramped in the vessel they occupy.

Reinekia bodily and variegated - well resistant, undemanding plants. The leaves are linear, tapering towards the base. The flowers are pinkish-lilac, small, collected in dense inflorescences. The cuttings root wonderfully.
Reineckias grow well on Géricique's nutrient solution in double pots and vases filled with gravel or expanded clay. Grown hydroponically, they develop into powerful leafy bushy plants. After a few years, it is necessary to divide and transplant them.

hybrid tea rose - the most valuable deciduous shrub, resting in the winter in a leafless state in a cool place at a temperature of 4-6 ° C.
The rose is a well-known beautifully flowering plant. In double flowerpots on solutions of Zherique and LTA, Ophelia and Hadley varieties are especially successful at pH = 6.5-7.0.
Annually in early spring, the hybrid tea rose is cut into 4-5 buds. Her cuttings are superbly rooted in expanded clay. At 1-2 years of age, roses can easily be transferred from land crops to hydroponics.
In room conditions, a rose requires a lot of care, but it gives a person great aesthetic pleasure with its double flowers of beautiful colors. In greenhouse conditions, roses grown hydroponically in hydroracks produce more inflorescences than when they are grown on land. This is evidenced by the data of the Main Botanical Garden of the Estonian SSR (Table 7) and the Garden and Park Administration of Leningrad (Table 8).
Under production conditions, for roses planted in expanded clay, the temperature is maintained at 12-14 ° C in autumn. In December, pruning is done for 4-5 buds, the leaves are sniffed if they have not fallen off, and the air temperature in the room is reduced to 10 or even to 0 ° WITH. Solution

Table 7
Average output of flower cut roses per 1 m3 (according to the data of the Main Botanical Garden of the Estonian SSR)

Table 8
Output of flower cut roses from 1 m - (according to the Garden and Park Administration of Leningrad)

(50% concentration) is fed into the substrate 1-2 times a month. Since February, the temperature in the room is increased, the plants are sprayed with water and 1-2 times a week, and later daily 2-3 times a day, they give a nutrient solution of normal concentration. Rose bloom begins in April and ends in November-December.

Saxifraga plaited - a plant with numerous long (50 cm or more) filamentous shoots that end in rosettes of dark green leaves with white-red or yellow-white spots, stripes, patterns. These plants are easily propagated by leaf rosettes with roots.

- ornamental plants, exceptionally suitable for indoor hydroponic cultivation. Sedums easily propagate in spring and summer with green cuttings in crushed expanded clay or in a mixture (1: 1) of sand with expanded clay. Rooted cuttings are planted in several pieces in low pots, vases, cups or boxes, in which miniature decorative compositions are created - often in combination with cacti, kalanchoe, aloe.
<подушки>

- an elegant miniature plant with pink, white, purple violet-like flowers that cover the entire plant in spring and summer. The stems of Saintpaulia are weak, fragile. The leaves are small, rounded, petiolate. With a lack of light, they rise vertically, and Saintpaulia ceases to bloom. It easily propagates in expanded clay with leaves and cuttings. The transplanted cuttings grow well on the LTA solution. For the winter, Saintpaulia is best placed in indoor greenhouses (with additional illumination) or placed on the windowsill of a bright, cool (but without drafts) window; pH = 6.5.

sparmania - fast growing and undemanding plant. For hydroponic culture, any of the nutrient solutions mentioned above are suitable, but it is best to use a GDR-2 solution at pH = 5.6-6.0.

- the most undemanding indoor plants that can grow in water for several months. I divide the best for rooms, and later every day 2-3 times a day, they give a nutrient solution of normal concentration. Rose bloom begins in April and ends in November-December.

Saxifraga plaited - a plant with numerous long (50 cm or more) filamentous shoots that end in rosettes of dark green leaves with white-red or yellow-white spots, stripes, patterns. These plants are easily propagated by leaf rosettes with roots.
Numerous shoots come from the upper mother plant, from which a large number of small rosettes develop, hanging in the air.
Of the numerous rosettes, the saxifrage forms the second tier. If they are given a place to root in a lower-hanging vase, then a third tier is formed. It turns out a very interesting composition that can take part of the wall.
Saxifraghu is immediately planted in hanging amples, where it grows for a long time. For its nutrition, solutions of Zherique and LTA are used.

Ceylon sanseviera (cuckoo's tail) - resistant houseplant. The leaves are basal, evergreen, narrow-lanceolate, 50-80 cm long, erect, with light transverse wide stripes. Creeping rhizome. The divided parts of the leaf take root well in expanded clay and, placed in double flowerpots, grow for many years without planting on the BILU solution.

Sedum carneum and Siebold's sedum - ornamental plants, exceptionally suitable for indoor hydroponic cultivation. Sedums easily propagate in spring and summer with green cuttings in crushed expanded clay or in a mixture (1: 1) of sand with expanded clay. Rooted cuttings are planted in several pieces in the bottom
some pots, vases, cups or boxes in which miniature decorative compositions are created - often in combination with cacti, kalanchoe, aloe.
Sedums grow luxuriously, forming bluish-green<подушки>with shoots falling over the edge of the dishes. Sedums can equally well decorate a window, a wall, they can be placed on tables or special stands. These ornamental plants grow well on nutrient solutions of LTA, Gerique and GDR-2 at pH = 5.5-6.0.

Saintpaulia violet (Uzambara violet) - an elegant miniature plant with pink, white, purple violet-like flowers that cover the entire plant in spring and summer. The stems of Saintpaulia are weak, fragile. The leaves are small, rounded, petiolate. With a lack of light, they rise vertically, and Saintpaulia ceases to bloom. It easily propagates in expanded clay with leaves and cuttings. The transplanted cuttings grow well on the LTA solution. For the winter, Saintpaulia is best placed in indoor greenhouses (with additional illumination) or placed on the windowsill of a bright, cool (but without drafts) window; pH = 6.5.

African sparmania (room linden) - a tree with large felt bright green leaves of a heart-shaped shape. The flowers are white, collected in bunches. Golden anthers of stamens protrude from the center of the flowers.
Sparmania is a fast growing and undemanding plant. For hydroponic culture, any of the nutrient solutions mentioned above are suitable, but it is best to use a GDR-2 solution at pH = 5.6-6.0.

Tradescantia, zebrina and netcreasia purple - the most undemanding indoor plants that can grow in water for several months. The best for rooms should be considered the green-leaved river tradescantia and its variegated forms, as well as the drooping zebrina, which has leaves with two silvery stripes along the vein (leaves are lilac-pink on the underside).
River tradescantia grows most rapidly in coarse gravel and expanded clay on solutions of BILU and LTA (at pH = 5.8). It forms huge thickets of densely leafy stems up to a meter or more long. In boxes, the stems of tradescantia green leaf form a dense lawn; bending over the edge, they hang down in an impenetrable thick green curtain.
Tradescantia quickly take root in pots with saucers. These plants also grow well in vases.
When the stems are exposed, Tradescantia is severely cut off (rejuvenated), and it is again covered with numerous leafy shoots. Tradescantia is indispensable for vertical wall decoration. The best substrate for this plant is expanded clay.

creeping ficus - ampelous plant with a creeping stem and small numerous leaves. It grows on a solution of Gerique in amples, framing them beautifully and hanging over the edges. Propagated by green cuttings in expanded clay. Can grow for several years without a transplant; The pH should be maintained at 6.0 - 6.6.

Ficus elastic (rubber ficus) often found in room culture. Its large shiny leaves are very decorative. In expanded clay, it grows on nutrient solutions of BILU or GDR-2. Roots develop well in solution in summer. In autumn, the roots that are in the solution die off, and those that are in the inner flowerpot (directly in expanded clay) are preserved. Therefore, in winter, expanded clay should be periodically watered with a nutrient solution, making sure that it does not dry out.
The cuttings are rooted in expanded clay. After rooting, they are transplanted into double flowerpots or pots with saucers; pH = 6.0 - 6.2.

Fuchsia hybrid and fuchsia graceful - trees or shrubs (depending on the formation of the plant). These are resistant plants that bloom for 7-8 months. The flowers are pink, white-pink, red, purple-red, purple, simple or double (depending on the variety). They abundantly cover the entire plant.
Fuchsia cuttings easily root in expanded clay. It can be propagated by large mature leaves with a strong petiole. The leaf is torn from the stem with a sharp movement. At the base of the petioles there are dormant buds that germinate easily and quickly develop into young plants.
Fuchsias grow excellently on nutrient solutions "LTA, BILU, Zherik, GDR-2, Zherik-2 at pH = 6 - 6.2.
Magenta should be pruned annually in early spring.

Chlorophytum bundle (corolla) - a very famous and common ampelous plant. Its long lily leaves (green or with white-yellow stripes along the leaf plate) are collected in basal bunches. Chlorophytum blooms inconspicuously. The arcuate stems of inflorescences after flowering form rosettes (bundles) of leaves with aerial roots at their ends. Strong specimens have 5-10 such hanging stems with bunches, leaves, and with a hydroponic culture, a second tier is formed from rosettes of various sizes. Their total number reaches 20 or more pieces. Turn out very beautiful<двухэтажные>plants for amples, boxes or double vases.
Chlorophytum grows well on solutions of JITA, BILU, Zherik at pH = 6.0 - 6.4. For lush development and obtaining powerful plants, the air layer (wet zone) for the roots should be 6-7 cm, so that due to the aerial part of the plants it does not develop<борода>. Chlorophytum easily propagates by young individual bunches of leaves with a ready root system.

Chrysanthemum Indian (large-flowered and small-flowered) - not only an important industrial cut crop, but also a potted plant for indoor landscaping.
Chrysanthemums are valued for their spectacular terry inflorescences of different colors, shapes and sizes. They bloom at the latest time of the year - in autumn and winter, until December. Their stems are stable, densely leafy; leaves are juicy green, lobed.
Chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings, which are cut from mother plants in March - April. Cut off small basal apical shoots 5-7 cm high and plant them in bowls, boxes, pots filled with crushed expanded clay (0.2-0.4 mm). After 4-5 weeks, rooted cuttings are planted in ordinary pots in expanded clay, consisting of larger fractions (0.4-0.5 mm).
Young plants are installed either in bright cold greenhouses on pallet racks or on windows in a bright cold room using an ordinary saucer. Rooted cuttings and young seedlings are first watered with a weak concentration of Gericux or J1TA nutrient solution, and then with a normal concentration at pH = 6.5-7.0. In large-flowered chrysanthemums

May bell

Flowers in a decorative stand

pluck out all side shoots, leaving only the apical flower bud. In small-flowered chrysanthemums, the opposite is true: pinch the top twice at a height of 15-18 cm, and after branching, pinch all the shoots of the second order - to obtain a branchy bush with numerous flower buds.
For the summer, plants are installed in greenhouses, nurseries, in open ground, watered with a nutrient solution, sprayed with clean water. By autumn (August), plants with buds formed on peduncles are brought into cool greenhouses or into rooms where they bloom. The best specimens are left as mother plants for cuttings for the next year. Chrysanthemum as a soil cut crop in greenhouses has been used recently. The cuttings rooted at the end of spring are planted in June in the soil of greenhouses: in peat, vermiculite or ordinary soil mixture. 40-42 cuttings are planted per 1 m2. Flowering plants receive by November 7th.
The best varieties of chrysanthemums are Luyon (canary-yellow inflorescences with rounded petals) and Boni Jean (straw-yellow inflorescences), as well as white chamomile, double golden yellow with an emerald center and Delight chrysanthemum with medium-sized terry inflorescences of amaranth-lilac color.

Cyperus alternate leaf (sitovnik) - a moisture-loving plant that, with a hydroponic culture, can grow for many years in a row. Its stems are straight, slender, trihedral, green, bearing at the top an elegant crown of narrow lily leaves. With good care of plants from the crown of leaves are formed<детки>- cuttings used for propagation. Cyperus works very well on any nutrient solutions, but it develops most effectively on a solution of Gericux at pH = 5.8. Over time, the rhizome, growing, breaks the inner pot, and the root system fills the outer flowerpot with a solution, so the plants periodically have to be divided into 2-4 parts and planted in other flowerpots.

Echeveria second glyauka (Echeveria sizaya) - a plant with pale greenish-blue fleshy leaves, collected in a dense closed rosette. The leaves are oval, pointed, tapering towards the base. This plant is a wonderful material for table flat vases, in which you can create a miniature landscape, a small composition of several plants (echeveria, aloe, Siebold's sedum and other succulents) planted in expanded clay.
Echeveria propagates with thick leaves, which are first dried for 12-14 hours and only then planted in expanded clay. Echeveria grows on nutrient solutions of BILU and LTA at pH = 5.5 - 6.

Justice scarlet - very unpretentious, well growing and flowering plant in hydroponic culture. Bright pink inflorescences stand out clearly against the background of dark green leaves. Justice blooms in summer and early autumn, easily propagated in expanded clay with green cuttings. It grows in double flowerpots, in boxes on solutions of LTA, BILU, Zherik, GDR-2; pH = 6.2 - 6.8. After flowering, the inflorescences are pruned, and then the plants that bloomed in early summer bloom again by autumn.
In addition to the above plants, hydroponics can grow coleus, heather, euonymus, bamboo, paperomia, oxalis, thuja, cypress, umbrella agapanthus, blue passionflower, lemon, myrtle-leaved eugenia, large-leaved grizelin, fiery kolanchoe, figs and a number of other plants. On balconies in boxes and vases, you can grow (mainly on solutions of LTA, BILU and Zherik) open ground plants listed in Table. nine.
On the balconies (in boxes and vases with nutrient solutions) these letniki develop rapidly and bloom profusely throughout the summer. For climbing plants (peas, morning glory, nasturtium), support is needed in the form of pegs, nylon cord, etc. Not only expanded clay can be used as a substrate. Excellent results were also obtained when growing letniki in a mixture of peat and expanded clay, peat and moss.
Many types and varieties of annuals produce good mature full-fledged seeds that are suitable for growing new seedlings for the next year. Sowing seeds of letniki is done in the spring, followed by picking and transplanting - just like when cultivating a plant in land mixtures. The difference lies in the fact that weeds do not appear in artificial substrates, seedlings do not get sick, are not damaged by pests, plants do not need to be fed, no fertilizers need to be applied.
According to literature data and our observations, it has been established that in open ground conditions in mobile gardens made of large flat vases, bowls, cubes, such perennial plants as hybrid anemones, small periwinkle, Carpathian bellflower grow well in a substrate of expanded clay, moss or peat , delphinium, mesembryantheum, medicinal soapwort, aubrecia, garden primrose, alpine rezuha, horned violet, edelweiss, felt sapling,

irises, lilies, monbrecia, gladioli, dahlias and other outdoor plants.
For decorative design of all the above plants of various objects, the most promising are the so-called moss walls, or, as they are also called, flower vertical compositions.

Introduction 3
Plant nutrition elements 5
Vessels for hydroponic indoor plants 10
Substrates for indoor plants 15
Nutrient solutions and their preparation 19
Planting and caring for them 22
Assortment of houseplants for hydroculture 26
Creating compositions from flower plants for interior decoration 47
Houseplant Pest Control 59

Since ancient times, people have been interested in plants. For many centuries, flowers have been loved by all peoples of the world. They firmly entered the life of the Soviet people.
It is unlikely that anyone will deny the huge role of flowers and greenery in the aesthetic education of a person. To create comfort in residential premises and public buildings, highly decorative flower plants are needed. It is safe to say that any apartment looks uncomfortable without flowers.
In our country, there are many lovers of indoor floriculture. They grow flowers for landscaping rooms, balconies, loggias and verandas. However, this is usually quite time consuming. It is desirable to use methods of growing plants that take little time. One such method is growing plants without soil, called hydroponics.
The method of growing indoor flower plants without soil, on nutrient media, has long been known. In Russia, for the first time in 1896, at the All-Russian Industrial and Art Exhibition in Nizhny Novgorod, K. A. Timiryazev demonstrated plants in a beautiful glass “house”. Plants grew in vessels filled with a solution of mineral salts. In those days, this method was recognized as "blasphemous" and did not go further than the laboratories.
In 1929, at the University of California, W. F. Gerikke carried out the industrial cultivation of vegetable
cultures in aqueous solutions of mineral salts. He called this method hydroponics (from the Greek - "water" and "work").
Research has shown that plants can be grown without soil on a large scale. The essence of the method is to replace the soil with an inert substrate, such as gravel, and supply plants with the necessary nutrients in an assimilable form. The substrate serves only as a support, the roots of plants are placed in it, and they receive nutrition from an aqueous solution that contains all the necessary salts.
A lot of work on growing plants without soil was carried out by the famous Soviet scientist D.N. Pryanishnikov and his students. Since 1936, vegetable and flower plants have been grown in greenhouses using the hydroponics method.
Since 1960, in many cities (Moscow, Leningrad, Kyiv, Odessa, Kharkov, Donetsk, Voroshilovgrad, Lvov, etc.), they began to cultivate both vegetable and flower plants without soil in greenhouses. Industrial hydroponics is successfully used in the Baltic cities and in Yerevan.
After the economic efficiency of the hydroponic method was proven, it began to be widely used in many foreign countries - Holland, France, Japan, England, USA, Belgium, Sweden, Poland, Austria.
The domestic and foreign literature provides data on the advantages of the hydroponic method of growing plants over the soil method. Flower plants grown in hydroculture are distinguished by high decorative qualities. Their flowers are brightly colored, the flowering period is longer, and cut flowers last much longer in water. And in sanitary terms, the hydroponics method has undeniable advantages.
Recently, indoor hydroponics has been successfully developed in many countries of the world, especially in the GDR and the FRG. In places of mass visits - theaters, hotels, restaurants and shops - they decorate interiors and shop windows with indoor plants in hydroculture.
In our country, hydroponics is almost never used in indoor floriculture. Issues of growing indoor plants by hydroponics are being studied in Leningrad. In the laboratory of agrochemistry of the Kyiv Scientific Research Design and Technological Institute of Municipal Economy of the MKH of the Ukrainian SSR, hydroponics research has been carried out since 1964. We have developed and tested in practice a nutrient mixture for flower plants grown in gravel and granite rubble, studied the range of indoor plants that grow well in hydroculture, methods of caring for them have been developed, etc., a set of compositions from flower and decorative foliage plants has been compiled for landscaping shop windows, as well as the interior of various premises.
The recommendations given in the brochure will help amateurs and professionals to grow plants with minimal time spent on caring for them. Plants in hydroculture, among other things, are convenient in that they can be left indoors for several days without care, since they will be provided with water and food. You just need to move them to a cool place and protect from direct sunlight.

PLANT NUTRITIONS
Plants require certain nutrients for their growth and development. Growing in the soil, they absorb nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, magnesium, iron and other elements. The so-called macronutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - they need a relatively large amount (grams). In addition, plants need much smaller amounts (tenths and hundredths of a gram) of boron, manganese, copper, molybdenum and other elements, which are commonly called microelements. The absence or deficiency of even one of the elements inevitably negatively affects the development of plants: they grow poorly and give a low yield. All the necessary elements of the plant are obtained from a solution of mineral salts.
Let us briefly characterize the role of macronutrients in plant life.
Nitrogen is part of proteins and chlorophyll. If there is not enough nitrogen, the plants grow and develop poorly, their leaves are small and have a color from light green to completely pale. The lower leaves turn yellow prematurely and then die off. The yellowing starts from the veins of the leaf and extends to its edges. The stems of plants in this case become weak.
Optimal doses of nitrogen contribute to an increase in plant productivity, more nitrogen is needed by plants during the growth of leaves and stems.
Abundant, exceeding the norm nutrition of plants with nitrogen with a lack of other elements (phosphorus, potassium) also adversely affects their development. In this case, the plants develop luxuriantly, their leaves are dark green in color, but they are more likely to be affected by diseases.
Phosphorus is an essential nutrient; without it, plants die. Phosphorus accelerates and improves flowering, contributes to its abundance and duration, accelerates the development of the root system. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves of many plants acquire a gray-green or reddish color, the lower leaves turn yellow and turn brown, and then die off. The development of plants slows down, their maturation is delayed, they have an oppressed appearance. Phosphorus is essential for young plants.
Potassium promotes the growth of plants and the ripening of shoots, it has a positive effect on flowering, increases the intensity of the color of flowers. It is found in large quantities in the young vital organs of plants. Young leaves are especially rich in potassium. Potassium is of great importance in the formation of starch, sugar, proteins, fats and other substances in plants. Potassium increases the yield and resistance of plants to lodging.
With a lack of potassium, the lower and middle leaves turn yellow, and yellowing begins at the edges, and the central part remains green. The tips of the leaves and their edges gradually turn brown and die. With a lack of potassium, plants are more easily affected by fungal diseases.
Consider microelements. They, like macroelements, have a great influence on the development of plants.
Magnesium is necessary for the formation of chlorophyll, its deficiency causes blanching of the leaf blade - spots.
Calcium and sulfur are needed for a number of physiological processes occurring in cells. They contribute to the powerful development of the root system of plants.
Iron is used by plants to form chlorophyll. In the absence of iron, plants suffer from chlorosis - their leaves become pale, to white, in color.
Boron is required for normal growth. In the absence of it, plant growth slows down, the tops of the shoots die off.
Manganese is necessary for the formation of chlorophyll, and also takes part in a number of oxidative processes occurring in the plant.
Zinc, copper, molybdenum and cobalt are needed in very small amounts. They play an important role in some biochemical processes.
All of these elements are necessary for building a plant organism.
With the hydroponic method of growing plants, all elements must be contained in the nutrient solution in the optimal amount. An extremely important condition for the growth and development of plants is a certain
the ratio of primarily macronutrients. The lack of any element will cause a relative excess of other elements, leading to an imbalance in the nutrient solution. Excessive excess of one of the nutrients in some cases may interfere with the absorption of another element, which will cause symptoms of a deficiency of the latter, even if its content in the nutrient solution is high.
Only a balanced nutrient solution, in which the salts are in certain proportions, contributes to the normal growth and development of the plant.

SIGNS OF ABNORMAL DEVELOPMENT OF PLANTS CAUSED BY NUTRITIONAL DEFICIENCY
The appearance of a plant is an indicator of its nutritional conditions. The appearance of certain characteristic signs or symptoms indicates a lack of a particular nutrient. This can happen at any point in the plant's life cycle. The age and size of the plant do not play a role here.
The nature of mineral starvation can be established from the symptoms that arise in plants.
Plant ailments associated with a lack of certain nutrients are called signs of starvation. After establishing the lack of nutrients, the malaise can be eliminated by adding a certain fertilizer to the nutrient solution.
In order to distinguish symptoms of disease and damage from signs of nutrient deficiency, it is necessary to study the effects of diseases and pests on plants. The latter will be discussed at the end of the book. Below is a brief table of external signs, or symptoms, of a lack of certain nutrients in plants. (...)
Excessive nutrition of plants negatively affects their development. Thus, one-sided nutrition with nitrogen, when other nutrients, such as phosphorus or potassium, are lacking, causes the lush development of leaves and stems. Large leaves of bright dark green color become too juicy and soft. The plant is more often attacked by insects and affected by fungal diseases. Abundant nitrogen nutrition, in particular in callas, can cause lodging and brittle leaves.
If phosphorus prevails over nitrogen in the nutrient solution, i.e., the normal ratio of elements is disturbed, this will affect flowering. The number of flowers may remain the same, but they will be on short pedicels, their small, decorative qualities will decrease. In a nutrient solution formulated to meet the requirements of grown indoor plants, excess potassium is usually not observed. The lack of potassium is reflected primarily in the decorativeness of some plants. For example, in roses and carnations, the pedicel is weak, drooping.

VESSELS FOR HOUSE PLANTS GROWN BY THE HYDROPONIC METHOD
Houseplants grown hydroponically are placed in hydropots - double pots or vessels (one inside the other). Vessels are subject to certain requirements. The outer vessel must not pass water, and the material from which it is made must not react with the nutrient solution.
Fired ceramic pots made of good clay best meet these requirements. It is better if the outer vessel is spherical, it contains more solution. This vessel (with a capacity of two liters) can be glazed on the outside or covered with oil or other opaque paint. A nutrient solution is poured into it up to half - an aqueous solution of salts (Fig. 1). The outer vessel should not be painted in bright colors, the best color is considered to be brown or the color of baked clay. It is not recommended to decorate ceramic pots with ornaments and flowers: this introduces unnecessary variegation and distracts the viewer's attention from the plants.
The outer pot or vessel may not be ceramic, but made of another material, plastic that does not react with the solution, thick glass, etc. However, it has a special requirement - it must be dark, opaque.
The fact is that the penetrating rays of sunlight contribute to the development of algae in a transparent vessel, and this is unacceptable.
Algae will consume some of the nutrients from the solution, and most importantly - pollute it.
The inner ceramic vessel is in the form of a flower pot, not painted, with a capacity of one liter, in the lower part with two rows of small round holes through which the nutrient solution enters and the roots of the plant penetrate (Fig. 2). This vessel is filled with gravel or crushed granite with a particle size of 3 - 15 mm. Larger particles of gravel or crushed stone are unsuitable. In substrates with such particles, large voids filled with air are formed, as a result of which gravel or crushed stone dries quickly, and plants grow much worse, especially in summer.
The inner vessel is immersed in the outer one so that its sides lie on the sides of the outer vessel and it is thus in a suspended state. Due to this, the inner vessel is constantly immersed (by an average of 6 - 8 cm) in the nutrient solution. If the vessel is filled to the top with nutrient solution and there is no air in it, the roots will begin to die off and the plant will eventually die. Roots need oxygen as well as leaves.
The outer vessel can be of any shape, but do not be tall, as more solution will be required. Vessels may be small. It is necessary to select them depending on the growth characteristic of plants, the intensity of the development of the root system, as well as the consumption of nutrients and water. For example, such large plants as arum, calla, aucuba and others require larger vessels than violets or cacti.
You can grow several plants together. To create beautiful compositions from different types of plants, they should be placed in large double ceramic vases or metal vases-boxes (Fig. 3). Like pots, the boxes should be double, the inner one filled with substrate and has a large number of holes.
Such vessels can be made in different sizes and shapes, depending on where they will be used in landscaping.
If the boxes are made of metal, they must be coated on the inside with bitumen or asphalt varnish to insulate them from the nutrient solution. Depending on the assortment of plants, the height of the boxes can be 20 - 30 cm, the width is 30 - 40 cm, and the length is determined by the place where the box will stand and the composition of the plants. Plant boxes look decorative and resemble miniature gardens.
Rice. 3. Vase-box for flower arrangements. Dimensions of outer drawer 30 X 30 X 80 cm, inner 20 X 25 X
X 70 cm.
Plants in vases-boxes can decorate large rooms in residential buildings, theater and cinema foyers, hotel lobbies, etc. You just need to skillfully place the plants in the vessels. When choosing plants, it is necessary to take into account the lighting in the place designated for them in certain periods of the year, as well as the air temperature, especially in winter.
Many plants make high demands on light. Therefore, if shade-loving plants are chosen for the composition, then plants that require sunlight should not be placed among them. Light-loving plants will stretch, their leaves will become pale in color. With a lack of light for compositions, it is better to select decorative and deciduous plants, as well as those less demanding of light.
Hydroponic plants can be grown on a variety of substrates. In the substrate, as well as in the soil, the root system of plants is located, supplying them with water and nutrients. In order for plants to grow normally, substrates must have a number of physical and other properties. They must be relatively inert, or chemically neutral, i.e., not react with the nutrient solution, conduct the nutrient solution well to the roots of plants, have porosity and the ability to retain on their surface both the nutrient solution and air, which is necessary for the roots to breathe. In addition, the substrate must be a good support for the plant.
Organic and mineral substrates are used for growing indoor flower plants. Organic substrates are moss and peat, and mineral ones are gravel and crushed stone, expanded clay, coarse sand, vermiculite, sea pebbles and biolaston artificial substrate.
Gravel and crushed stone are the most common and durable substrate for vegetable and flower crops.
Usually they take silicon or quartz gravel or crushed granite. The size of the particles of gravel or crushed stone is of great importance. The best result in our studies was obtained with crushed granite, which has a particle size of 3 - 15 mm. Gravel and crushed stone should not contain calcium carbonate: it can alkalize the solution and cause the precipitation of phosphates in the form of an insoluble precipitate.
Expanded clay - building heat-insulating material, has the form of small balls. It is obtained by swelling and firing clay at a high temperature. It is better to use expanded clay crushed, with particles of 3 - 15 mm. Larger fractions are undesirable due to the resulting voids and porosity, which contribute to the drying of the root system of plants. Having a large absorption capacity, expanded clay is significantly inferior to gravel and crushed granite. Not all indoor plants grow well on it. Roses, azaleas, and also asparagus develop well on expanded clay.
Vermiculite is a mineral from the group of micas, consists of thin layered plates, has a high moisture capacity and absorbency. As a substrate for growing plants, it is used quite widely. The best results have been obtained by adding vermiculite to the gravel in a 1:1 ratio.
Biolastoi. Recently, in the GDR, a new substrate has been widely advertised and used in indoor floriculture - biolastoi, a black mass consisting of finely chopped small particles of a special plastic. Biolastoi does not swell in water and does not react with the nutrient solution. According to German scientists, plants in biolaston grow well and are very firmly fixed by roots, forming a strong, non-disintegrating lump.
In foreign practice of floriculture, along with inorganic substrates, organic substrates are widely used, mainly peat in the form of crumbs and moss. It has been proven that organic substrates, due to the humus substances they contain, have a beneficial effect on plants. In the GDR, the FRG, England, the USA and other countries, many flower plants are successfully grown in these substrates. The substrate is filled with various forms: pots, light wire baskets, boxes, etc. Plants grown in such forms decorate shop windows, house entrances, windows, walls, balconies, terraces, flat roofs of houses.
The method of growing plants in organic substrates and nutrient solutions is widely used in the Republic of South Africa and Switzerland. With the help of frames filled with an organic substrate, walls of houses, columns, pyramids, pergola arches and other types of flower structures are created. The height of the structure can be any, and the width (substrate thickness) must be at least 20 - 30 cm. Such structures look very colorful and attract everyone's attention.
Moss is highly hygroscopic and water-retaining, so plants can be watered once a day. The form is usually filled in the following way: its inner walls are laid out with an undisturbed layer of forest moss, and the rest of the space is filled with moss - crushed or mixed with peat chips in a ratio of 1: 1. Then the mass is allowed to settle for several days, after which plants are planted. The plants are planted in moss moistened with water, and after a week they begin to water them with a nutrient solution.
Peat is widely used as a substrate in many foreign countries. It was widely used in the cities of the Baltic states. Peat has a significant moisture capacity. Air-dry peat is capable of holding ten times its weight in water, and it also contains a sufficient amount of air necessary for the roots to breathe. The process of peat mineralization proceeds very slowly, and this is also important. Our research showed that callas and roses grew successfully on peat.
Of the above substrates for indoor flower plants that are grown in residential premises, gravel and crushed granite are the best. They are easier to fill the vessels, they are durable, they can be easily washed. A wide range of plants are known to grow successfully on these substrates.
All mineral substrates should be properly treated before filling pots or other hydroponically suitable containers. Gravel or crushed stone must be passed through a screen, since it is necessary that its particles be of a certain fraction, not more than 3 - 15 mm.
The sorted gravel or crushed stone is well washed with water (it is better to wash it under a water tap, in an open place). Then the washed gravel or crushed stone for disinfection is treated with a weak solution of sulfuric acid (0.3% II2SO4). Acid treatment is mandatory in enameled or glassware. It is impossible to treat gravel with acid in metal dishes, because the latter will react with the metal. Gravel and crushed stone are poured with a weak acid solution (30 ml of acid per 1 liter of water) and left for a day, after which the solution is drained, and gravel and crushed stone are washed with clean tap water until indicator paper shows a neutral reaction of washing water. You can do without indicator paper, washing should be repeated at least 6 - 8 times, each time filling the dishes to the top. Washed and disinfected gravel or crushed stone is suitable for filling vessels.
The vessels are filled as follows: coarser gravel is laid on the bottom to ensure good drainage - with particles of 15 - 20 mm in size, with a layer of 3 cm. Gravel of fine fraction (3 - 15 mm) is poured on top.
Expanded clay must be crushed, and then washed and disinfected in the same way as gravel. At the bottom of the vessel, expanded clay should be laid larger - up to 20 mm, and on top - small, 3 - 15 mm.
Peat and moss are not disinfected. They are placed in vessels, after laying gravel or crushed stone on the bottom for drainage with a layer of up to 3 cm. Peat in the form of crumbs or crushed moss is placed on the gravel to the top of the vessel, periodically pressing them down to compact. Then the vessels with the substrate are washed with tap water for one day. And only after such preparation, flower plants are planted.
The high decorativeness of plants to a large extent depends on their availability of nutrients, especially with the hydroponic method of cultivation.
The nutrient solution should contain all the elements in ratios that do not exceed the norm for their consumption by plants. It must be remembered that plants absorb nutrients better from dilute solutions. At concentrations exceeding the optimal norm, plants may die.
The concentration of the nutrient solution may increase due to the fact that the roots absorb water faster than the mineral salts dissolved in it. In addition, water partially evaporates, and this also leads to an increase in the concentration of the nutrient solution. It is especially important to monitor the nutrient solution in the summer, when the evaporation of water in the vessels increases. It is necessary that the nutrient solution in the outer vessel is always at the same level, i.e., fills it up to half the volume. When the solution becomes smaller, it is topped up with water to the original volume: usually in summer water is added after 2-3 days, and less often in winter.
It has been established that the concentration of the nutrient solution should be in the range of 1 - 5 g of mineral salt per 1 liter of water.
Researchers have developed several compositions of nutrient mixtures for indoor floriculture. Here are some of them (in grams per 1 liter of water). (...)
The above nutritional mixtures have been tested in the cultivation of indoor plants. Our Flora formula has been tested for five years with good results. All rastepia had a highly decorative appearance: large green leaves, large and brightly colored flowers.
Nutrient solutions for plants can be prepared with ordinary tap water. Each salt needs to be grown
* BILU - Biological Institute of Leningrad University.
Swallow separately, in a small enamel or glass container, and then drain into a common vessel designed for nutrient solution. Salts must be dissolved, strictly adhering to the order in which they appear in the recipe of the nutrient mixture. Violation of this rule can lead to the fact that a precipitate of insoluble salts will fall to the bottom of the vessel.
They start with macronutrients, i.e. elements that the plant needs in large quantities. Magnesium sulphate is dissolved in a small amount of water and, after it has dissolved, is poured into a common vessel, into which a small amount of water has previously been poured. Then ammonium and potassium nitrate are also dissolved, after them potassium chloride, and at the end ammonium phosphate. These salts are also dissolved separately in a small amount of water and poured into the same common vessel. After pouring another salt solution, mix the contents thoroughly by shaking. Having mixed the general solution well, microelements are added to it. They are also dissolved in a certain sequence in a separate glass jar in a small amount of water. First, boric acid is dissolved, after acidifying the water with sulfuric acid (1-2 drops per 1 liter of water) for its better dissolution. After mixing well and making sure that it has completely dissolved, salts of zinc, iron, molybdenum and copper are added successively, dissolving each separately in a small amount of water. After adding the next salt, the solution is mixed properly. Then the solution of microelements, thoroughly shaken, is gradually, with constant stirring, poured into a vessel with a solution of macroelements. The solution thus prepared is ready for use.
The reaction of the solution is of great importance for the normal growth and development of plants. The reaction is indicated by the sign pH, it can vary from 1 to 14. A solution with a pH of less than 7 will be acidic, and above 7 - alkaline. The pH value of 7 is a neutral reaction.
It has been established by research that the nutrient solution for plants grown without soil, depending on the crop, should have a pH of 5.5 - 7.0. A shift in the reaction of the solution to the alkaline side (pH above 7) negatively affects plants; in such a solution, salts of iron, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus and manganese turn into insoluble compounds that are not absorbed by plants.
To determine the pH of the nutrient solution, a special device with a standard color scale or indicator paper is used. A strip of indicator paper is lowered into the prepared solution, and depending on the properties of the solution, it turns into one or another shade of pink or blue. The colored strip is compared with the color scale that comes with the indicator paper, and thus the pH of the saline solution is determined. If the pH is above 7, the solution must be acidified. A small amount (2 - 4 drops per 1 liter of water) of sulfuric acid is added to it and mixed well. Check the pH again with a strip of indicator paper until the desired reaction is obtained. Ready plant nutrient solution can be stored in a closed container for 2 to 3 months.

PLANTING AND CARE
Plants selected for cultivation without soil must first of all be healthy. The age of plants can be different: from rooted cuttings to 2 - 3 years. However, it is better to take young plants, they take root easier. Before planting in an artificial substrate, plants are grown in soil in ordinary pots, cuttings are rooted in sand, in boxes, in a nutrient solution. As already mentioned, before planting in a double pot, the rooted stalk is removed from the sand, and the plant you ~
they are beaten from an earthen pot and carefully free the roots from the soil, then the root system is thoroughly washed with ordinary tap water. After washing all the soil, the plant is planted in the substrate. The pot is filled to half with gravel or crushed stone, and larger particles are placed on the bottom. After that, carefully straightening the roots of the plants, they are carefully covered with gravel or crushed stone to the root neck.
Cuttings that have been rooted in sand in a nutrient solution are not washed with water. They are carefully, without shaking off the sand from the roots, they are removed from the box and so, with a small lump, they are planted in the substrate. When planting several plants in one vessel, make sure that their roots are isolated by the substrate in the same way as when plants are planted in the soil. Otherwise, the flattened roots will be damaged and rot. It should also be remembered that gravel should not be pressed against the roots, as they can be damaged or deformed. The roots of the plant are freely covered with a substrate up to the root neck, small roots - always with fine gravel or crushed stone.
However, even with the most careful planting, lint can be slightly damaged. Damaged areas of the roots, before they are corked, react negatively to watering with water containing dissolved mineral salts. Therefore, after planting, the plants are kept on clean water for the first three days, for which the pot intended for the nutrient solution (external) is filled up to half with clean tap water. After three days, the water is poured out and the pot is filled with a nutrient solution diluted halfway with water. Plants are kept on the diluted nutrient solution for five days, after which they are transferred to a complete, 100% nutrient solution prepared on the same day. The outer pot is only half filled with nutrient solution (see fig. 1).
Plants planted in pots with a nutrient solution are exposed to a window in the shade or close to a window where they will be protected from direct sunlight. When the plants recover after transplantation (this is indicated by their appearance - swelling of the buds, the beginning of growth, budding, etc.), they are transferred to a permanent, well-lit place. In the shade, especially in summer, leave only plants that do not tolerate bright sunlight.
Caring for plants grown without soil does not require much labor and time. It is necessary to change the solution used by the plants in time, monitor its level in the pot, care for the crown of the plant and, if necessary, fight pests and diseases.
Recently, the Odessa Superphosphate Plant has been producing the Flora nutrient mixture in the form of a complex tableted mineral fertilizer. A 1 g tablet contains all the nutrients a plant needs. Fertilizer tablets greatly facilitate the care of plants. Use tablets "Flora" as follows. In 1 liter of tap water, stirring, dissolve three tablets of "Flora". This will take 5 - 10 minutes. You can dissolve the tablets faster - in a small amount of warm water heated to 40 ° C - and then add cold water to a volume of one liter. The solution prepared in this way is filled with external! half pot.
How to replace the solution with a fresh one? The inner pot with a plant growing in gravel or crushed stone should be rinsed with water under the tap, passing water through the substrate for 2 to 3 minutes. You can also rinse the plant by dipping the pot several times in a large vessel of clean water.
At the same time, each time they let the water drain. Then the washed inner pot with the plant is lowered into the outer
ny pot with a solution prepared from tablets. This procedure is repeated every time the solution used by the plants is replaced with a freshly prepared one.
The nutrient solution is usually changed once a month. In the summer (June, July, August), when plants develop intensively and consume more nutrients, the solution must be changed after 20 days.
Studies on growing plants with the use of tableted mineral fertilizer "Flora" have shown that their development is normal, and the flowering and decorative qualities of flowers are significantly improved.
Flora tablets can also be used to fertilize plants grown in the usual way, in the soil, both at room conditions and on the balcony in boxes. In one liter of water, you need to dissolve one tablet and water the plants with this solution. Before fertilizing plants with a nutrient solution, do not pre-irrigate the soil with water, it is better if it is slightly dried. Waterlogging of the soil has a bad effect on the root system of plants: gas exchange is disturbed, and this leads to the death of the roots. In winter and autumn, houseplants should be watered with a nutrient solution once or twice, and in summer - two or three times a month, the rest of the time they should be watered with clean water. Plants on the balcony are recommended to be watered two to three times a month with a nutrient solution and daily with water.
To increase the humidity of the air and wash off the dust from the leaves, the plants are periodically sprayed with water. This should be done in the evening, because the sun can burn the leaves. Dried leaves and withered flowers are cut off. In order to give the plant a correct, beautiful shape, pinching individual shoots is done. Pinching the shoot is done by breaking off the top of its not yet lignified part, with two still undeveloped leaves. This technique stops the growth of the shoot in height and causes the growth of new side shoots. This way you can get branched plants of the desired height.

HOUSE PLANTS RANGE FOR HYDROCULTURE
Many flower houseplants can be grown without soil. However, the best of them are those that take root more easily in hydroponic culture, are less damaged and more hardy, and most importantly, acquire high decorative qualities over time.
This section recommends plants that have proven effective in hydroponic research and are popular with indoor growers.
Plants under the age of one year were planted in hydropots filled with crushed granite. Planting of some plants was carried out by rooted cuttings or offspring. Bulbous plants were also planted at the age of one year. It should be said that these plants tolerate transplantation into substrates very well, develop normally, and by the end of the year produce baby bulbs, which, when they grow up, are separated for transplantation.

FLOWERING PLANTS
Amaryllis is a widespread bulbous plant with belt-shaped bright green succulent leaves. Amaryllis bloom in winter or early spring. The flowers are beautiful, large, resembling a lily, formed on high arrows, but 4 - 6 on each. Grown hydroponically, they often bloom twice a year - in winter and in summer, with large bulbs producing two flower arrows. Amaryllis of two genera are known in culture: hippeastrum (from America) and amaryllis (from Africa). Amaryllis flowers are white, pink, red and orange. Numerous cultivars have been obtained through hybridization, less demanding on growing conditions and with larger flowers, up to 20 cm in diameter. When grown hydroponically, amaryllis do not require a dormant period (drying), their leaves are dark green in color, and the rastepia blooms annually.
Begonias - Bismarck, Kredner and Sanguins - come from Central Africa and South America. Plants with beautiful decorative evergreen leaves oblique heart shape. Begonias bloom in summer with pinkish and reddish small flowers. Flowering is usually abundant and quite long.
Hydrangea is a bushy plant with semi-lignified shoots and heart-shaped leaves. Its homeland is China and Japan. It blooms with very small flowers. Large, predominantly white and pink, hydrangea sepals collected in lush inflorescences give the plants a decorative effect, they are mistaken for flower petals. In a hydroponic culture in a room, the "flowers" of hydrangeas are larger than in conventional cultivation. They bloom in early spring and late June. In terms of flowering time and decorative effect, hydroponic hydrangeas are superior to soil-grown hydrangeas.
Carnation. This common ground plant grows very well in hydroponics. The best varieties from the "Sim" group (but named after a Dutch breeder) have large, brightly colored flowers. Planted with a rooted cutting, carnation blooms in three to four months. The flowering period is nyat-six months. In late autumn, the carnation gradually dies off. However, with proper care, it can be grown with normal flowering for up to two years. The number of flowers per plant averages 7-8 in the first year and up to 14 in the second year.
Calla is a semi-marsh evergreen plant with large arrow-shaped leaves on long succulent petioles. It blooms with small flowers, collected on the cob, surrounded by a white tubular sheet-bedspread. Inflorescences are usually mistaken for original large snow-white flowers on long pedicels-arrows. Flowering begins, as a rule, in November and continues until May, often until June. Calla lilies are native to South Africa and grow in swampy areas. In hydroponic conditions, calla lilies reproduce well by layering, which is easily separated from the mother plant. In hydroponics, they bloom from October to August, with a break of 1 - 2 months (Fig. 4).
Clivia is an unpretentious evergreen plant with linear dark green, beautifully curved leaves. Comes from South Africa. Clivia flowers of various colors, but more often orange, in large inflorescences there are up to 20 flowers. Blooms indoors in winter or spring, for almost a month. In hydroponic culture, it blooms annually with large flowers.
Pancratium is an evergreen bulbous plant with ribbon-like wide leaves (Fig. 5), it is sometimes called the Nile lily. The plant comes from South Africa. It blooms in mid-August, forming inflorescences at the end of a tall grassy arrow. The flowers are white, very original and graceful but shaped. In inflorescences there are up to 10 flowers, which emit a pleasant aroma when blooming. Flowering lasts up to 20 days. In conditions of hydroponic cultivation, the flowers are large, it blooms once.
Pelargonium comes from the subtropical zone of South Africa. There are several groups of pelargoniums. Indoor pelargoniums are distinguished by large flowers. Pelargonium with bright red flowers blooms from early spring to late autumn. Large-flowered pelargoppya is more beautiful, with large finely toothed leaves and double flowers. The color of the flowers is white-pink-red. In hydroponics, the flowers are larger and brighter. It blooms in large inflorescences, up to 10 flowers each, from May and throughout the summer period.
Saintpaulia, or uzambar violet, is a short, graceful plant with beautiful decorative leaves and blue, white, pink or purple flowers, reminiscent of a violet in shape and color. Comes from tropical Africa. Due to its beautiful flowers and long (8 - 10 months) flowering period, sennolia is especially suitable for compositions that decorate rooms and showcases. In hydroponic culture, it is easily propagated by leaves and cuttings. When the substrate dries out, it dies. It grows best in a cool place, with diffused lighting, does not tolerate direct sunlight and drafts.
Fuchsia is an evergreen semi-herbaceous shrub with small oval leaves. The flowers are pink and red, hanging on thin stalks. Fuchsia is native to Chile and Mexico. The plant grows well in hydroponics, but does not tolerate the absence of air in a pot of solution. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the pot is only half filled with a solution.
Rice. 6. Eucharis during flowering.
Funkia lilisvetnaya - undersized unpretentious plant with tubular white flowers and beautiful rosettes of light green heart-shaped oval leaves. Very fragrant flowers, large, up to 8 - 10 cm in diameter, 20 - 30 are collected in brushes up to 50 cm high. Funkia comes from China and Japan. In hydroponic culture it winters without leaves (2 months); leaves appear from February, and flowers appear in June. Flowering continues until September and longer. During the period when the funkia is without leaves, it should be kept on a nutrient solution diluted by half with water.
Eu-haris is a bulbous plant with beautiful snow-white fragrant flowers resembling a narcissus. It comes from the tropical regions of America. The leaves are large, dark green, decorative. It blooms only after the formation of bulbs-"babies", so it is not recommended to plant the bulbs one by one. When grown hydroponically, it often blooms twice a year - in spring and autumn (Fig. 6).

PLANTS WITH DECORATIVE LEAVES
Arum is an evergreen tropical plant from the island of Ceylon. It has beautiful large arrow-shaped green leaves on long juicy petioles. Grown in the soil at room conditions, arum usually has 3-4 leaves, and in hydroponics, one-year plants had 8-10 large leaves. Propagated by offspring, which are formed quite rarely. In our studies, arum at the age of one year formed three offspring, which developed well and gave the plant an uncharacteristic splendor. In the third year, the arum blossomed (Fig. 7, 8).
Aspidistra is a low shrub with large hard dark green leaves on long thin petioles, similar to lily of the valley leaves. It comes from the tropical forests of southern China and Japan. The plant is very
whimsical, withstands sharp fluctuations in temperature and easily adapts to growing conditions. Reproduces by division. Gives 5-6 large leaves per year. Grows best in a large pot. In hydroponic culture, the powerful green leaves of aspidistra are very decorative (Fig. 9). The plant is widely used for landscaping.
Aucuba is a very beautiful evergreen with leaves covered with golden spots. Aucuba comes from Japan and grows well in hydroculture.
Due to the decorativeness of the leaves, it can be used to decorate cool places - stairs, lobbies, etc. It looks beautiful in hydropots, developing as a shrub.
Dracaena variegated is an evergreen plant with a straight lignified trunk densely covered with narrow long leaves. The leaves are sessile, original color - variegated with white parallel stripes. Dracaena originate from tropical Africa. Dracaena variegated grows well in hydroponics, significantly ahead of the development of the plant in the soil. An annual plant grown without soil in one growing season has grown by 37 cm in height and thrown out 30 leaves, which are distinguished by high decorative qualities (Fig. 10).
Coleus is a perennial herbaceous shrub originating from India. The stems are tetrahedral, straight, very juicy. The leaves are heart-shaped, pointed, simple, but with a ripple reminiscent of terry, variegated, patterned, bordered with beautiful red, pink, yellow and purple stripes. A very hardy plant, well propagated by cuttings. It grows very quickly in hydroponics, reaches a height of 80 - 100 cm in 4 - 5 months. It blooms with a panicle of small blue inconspicuous flowers.
Nephrolepis is valued for its decorative, beautiful pinnate leaves. This fern plant, very moisture-loving, grows well in the shade. The height of the bush is up to 60 cm. It does not tolerate drafts. Propagated by dividing the bush. In case of damage, all the leaves of nephrolepis are cut off, after which new greens grow. With the hydroponic method, it develops well, forming beautiful pinnate frond leaves, superior in size and decorativeness to those of soil plants. In winter, the cut leaves of Nephrolepis can be used to arrange flower plants in bouquets.
Sansevera is an evergreen plant with an underground creeping stem-rhizome from which erect, fleshy sword-shaped leaves grow. The leaves of the sansevera are decorative due to their variegated color: light, with dark green transverse stripes and spots that intensify when the plant is kept in the sun. By origin, sansevier is a Ceylon plant; propagated in spring by division of the rhizome. There is an opinion that with an excess of moisture, the sansevera may die. However, in our studies, when grown hydroponically, it grows beautifully, producing beautiful brightly colored leaves. It is successfully used in landscaping, especially decorative in compositions (Fig. 11).
Philodendron is an undemanding perennial tropical plant with a thick stem that needs support. Its dark green leaves with holes of various sizes and deeply cut, on long grooved petioles, are very beautiful. At home, in the tropical forests of Guatemala (Central America), it grows as a huge liana that wraps around tall trees. Propagated by apical cuttings or parts of the stem with a kidney. In hydroponics, the philodendron has large green, very decorative leaves up to 100 cm or more in diameter.
Cyperus (sometimes called papyrus) is a swampy evergreen plant with original umbrellas of narrow light green leaves on long thin trihedral stems. Indoor cyperus comes from the island of Madagascar. A fairly undemanding plant to sunlight, but very moisture-loving. Cyperus grown in the soil forms a bush up to 60 - 70 cm high, and on hydroponics it reaches one meter, besides, its "umbrellas" are much larger and darker in color. It forms a large number of stems and blooms with small inconspicuous greenish-white flowers at the edges of umbels-leaves. Propagated by dividing the bush, and the cut off part should have 2 - 3 stems.
Cineraria maritime is a perennial plant with beautiful silvery fluffy split leaves. It grows in a small bush up to 40 cm high. It is used in landscaping in combination with dark-leaved plants. Hydroponic grown cineraria reach 80 cm in height in one year. Plants are planted in seedlings about 10 cm high.

DANGING (AMPEL) PLANTS
Asparagus Sprengeri is an evergreen beautiful indoor plant. Lush bush with lanceolate light green branches, similar to leaves, and small white flowers. Drooping shoots are formed even in young plants. Homeland of asparagus - South Africa, it grows there along the banks of rivers and lakes. The plant is unpretentious, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Looks good on a high table. It grows well without soil, in gravel culture, blooms, and then forms red berries that contain seeds. In our studies, asparagus, planted as a young plant with three shoots, in a year turned into a lush bush with 62 shoots (only large shoots were taken into account).
Indoor grapes - a shrub with long thin shoots. It has a mustache, thanks to which it "creeps" in height. Indoor grapes originate from Australia. This is a fairly unpretentious plant that grows very well in hydroculture. It looks beautiful if it is installed on a trellis - the grapes gradually braid it.
Ivy ordinary - an evergreen plant with creeping shoots. Ivy leaves are dark green with white veins, leathery. Gives long dense leafy shoots. They can wrap around a trellis, a window, or put whips on the walls of a room. It grows wild in Southern Europe, Asia and North America. Long lashes of ivy cover the rocks completely, sticking to them with aerial roots. Propagated by cuttings. It grows very well in hydroponics, its lashes are densely covered with green decorative leaves.
Setcreasia belongs to Tradescantia. Very undemanding plant, comes from America. Growing in a lighted place, it has leaves of a purple-lilac color, in the shade the leaves turn pale and the green color begins to predominate. Very easy to propagate by cuttings with two or three leaves. The cuttings planted in the substrate quickly take root and grow into shoots reaching a length of 60 or more centimeters. Old plants (with shrunken leaves) should be replaced with new ones, and several cuttings are usually planted in one pot. Setcreasia, like other tradescantia planted in large vases, can be used for interior gardening. In pots, they are suitable for decorating walls and columns.
Tradescantia is an evergreen plant with herbaceous hanging shoots and small oblong pointed green leaves. In some species, the leaves are larger, with a pattern of silvery stripes (zebra tradescantia), and the stems are dense and rise slightly at the ends. Tradescantia is undemanding to lighting conditions, however, in bright sun, its leaves are greener. It is moisture-loving, comes from America, where it grows in swampy tropical forests. It is well cut by twigs with 3-4 leaves. Cuttings stuck into wet gravel to a depth of 3-5 cm quickly take root and grow in a week. Up to 20 cuttings, planted in one pot rooted, after five months grow so much that they cover on all sides a bedside table or shelf up to 1.5 m high, on which the plant is installed (Fig. 12). Tradescantia grows splendidly in boxes filled with gravel, forming a dense lawn that covers the sides of the box. It is used for vertical gardening of walls in rooms.
Chlorophthum is a herbaceous plant. Linear sword-shaped leaves of its light green color, with white-yellow longitudinal stripes. Comes from South Africa. An unpretentious indoor plant, blooms, throwing out characteristic arrows, at the ends of which many “children” (leaf rosettes) with aerial roots are formed. If the plant stands in a brightly lit place, there is active growth and intense leaf color. It grows very well in gravel culture, forming 2 - 3 tiers of rosettes of leaves hanging from pots and boxes (Fig. 13). Propagated by "children", which take root easily.
Succulents are plants with fleshy stems or leaves that contain large amounts of water. Most succulents come from hot countries, they grow there on poor sandy soils. There is therefore an opinion that succulents do not tolerate excessive moisture and dampness. However, our research has shown that they grow well in gravel culture without soil. Grown by hydroponics, succulents in their growth, development and decorativeness surpassed plants cultivated in the soil.
Agave is a perennial stemless plant with fleshy tongue-like leaves; comes from Mexico. There are many types of agave, of which the American agave is most often cultivated in roomy conditions. The most common agave is variegated. She has bluish-green leaves with prickly spines on the ribs and a very hard, sharp end. Even more beautiful is the agave variety, which has leaves with white or yellow stripes. Agave is propagated by offspring that develop well in hydroponics. This ornamental plant grows quite quickly.
Aloe is popularly called agave. Known as a medicinal plant, due to which it has become widespread. The healing properties of aloe were known in ancient Egypt. Nowadays, the juice of this plant is widely used for many diseases. Aloe is grown on large plantations in Central Asia and the Caucasus.
Successfully grown hydroponic aloe forms a low stem with numerous shoots. The leaves are long, fleshy, sessile, serrated along the edges, gray-green in color.
The notion that aloe should be kept dry in the winter to prevent root rot has been refuted by research done in hydroponics. With this method, plants kept on a nutrient solution in winter grow well and produce many shoots (Fig. 14).
Aloe is propagated by offspring; after separation, they are kept for one day in the shade in the air, and then planted for rooting in sand, which is periodically moistened. In a hydropot with a nutrient solution, plants are planted after the formation of roots.
Phyllocactus, or deciduous cactus, is a small shrub with flat, long, rather stiff stems. Along the edges of the stems there are cutouts, teeth of a rounded shape; no thorns or spines. The plant comes from the forests of Central America, it is quite unpretentious, grows in semi-lit places at various temperatures.
It blooms profusely every year with beautiful pink and red flowers. The most common is Ackermann's phyllocactus, which blooms in spring with large bright red flowers that remain on the plant for 4 to 5 days. Plants grown without soil develop well, and the flowers are much brighter. Phyllocactus reproduces by parts of the stem, which are first rooted in sand, and then planted in pots with a substrate (Fig. 15).
Echeveria is an evergreen plant with succulent fleshy bluish-green leaves collected in a beautiful rosette. Comes from South Africa and South America; blooms in winter. Small flowers on a drooping arrow are collected in an ear. Propagated by seeds, lateral rosettes and leaves. When propagated by leaves, the latter are slightly dried, and then planted for rooting in the sand. The best term for grafting a leaf is March or early April. After rooting, the plants are planted in pots filled with gravel. In a hydroponic culture, it grows well and blooms, forming large decorative rosettes.
All the above plants have been studied by us, they turned out to be the best for growing them by hydroculture in room conditions. According to the main indicator - decorativeness, they significantly exceeded plants grown in the soil.
Further research will increase the range of flowering and ornamental leafy plants recommended for hydroponic cultivation.

CREATING COMPOSITIONS FROM FLOWER PLANTS FOR ROOM DECORATION
GROWING ORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN FLAT VASES
Ornamental plants for indoor landscaping can be grown in flat vases. Long-term observations have shown that this method is effective. The care of the grown plants is simple and, most importantly, the plants require little space. A vase with plants can be placed on a table, bedside table, bookcase, etc.
Ceramic vases, bowls, bowls, deep plates or dishes are suitable for compositions of this kind. Better when they are the color of baked clay or gray, brown or green. Plastic vases for growing plants are unsuitable, the plants die in them. The sizes of vases can be different, depending on the composition and the place chosen for landscaping. More often they take bowls or vases with a diameter of 30 cm. In such a vase, you can create a beautiful composition of several plants (Fig. 16).
Vessels intended for growing plants are filled with washed sand. In the center or side, you can put decorative pebbles in the form of a slide. Porous stones look beautiful - pieces of tuff or shell rock, besides, they are convenient, it is easy to make depressions in them, into which plants are planted after filling sand.
For flat vases, it is best to take cacti. Cacti grow in North and South America, in the sands of semi-deserts, on rocky plateaus, in rock crevices and cliffs with a poor layer of soil, in places heated by the sun's rays. Plants have adapted to adverse conditions, as evidenced by their appearance. Most cacti have absolutely no leaves, they are replaced by thorns, bristles and hairs of the most diverse shapes and thicknesses. The role of leaves in most cacti is performed by a strongly thickened, modified green stem. The shape of the stems and their surface are the most diverse. Cacti bloom with sessile large and small flowers of different colors, with the exception of blue. Many cactus flowers are fragrant, others are odorless.
Cacti take root quite easily in sand moistened with ordinary tap water. Stem cuttings of cacti from the apical and lateral shoots are broken off or cut off with a sharp knife and dried for 5-6 days in air in a dry room. After a vitreous film forms on the sections, the cuttings are planted in sand or stones to a depth of one centimeter.
In addition to cacti, you can use in the composition: phyllocactus, sansevier, saintpaulia, chlorophytum, begonia and other plants. In this case, all deciduous plants are planted after 2-3 leaves and a lobe of roots are formed on them. Most begonias have large leaves;
it must be remembered that only varieties with small leaves are suitable for small compositions. Begonias are planted in rubble only after rooting. Planted plants are watered with ordinary tap water for 10-15 days. After this period, when rooting occurs, they are watered once a month with the Flora nutrient solution (one tablet is dissolved in two liters of water). The rest of the time, watering is carried out to the extent of need, daily or every other day. It should be watered carefully, using a small children's watering can with a fine strainer (with a strong stream, the sand is easily washed out of the vessel with water). With a similar content, plants grow slowly and their leaf blades are much smaller than usual. Such an indoor flower arrangement can grow for five to six years without transplanting and replacing plants.
Plants of the same species can be grown in gravel or coarse sand in vases or bowls mounted on trellises or brackets. You can also, if conditions permit, hang them in vases. These are asparagus, ferns, begonias, tradescantia, sansevera, eucharis, chlorophytum and others.
After planting ampelous plants in vases, for 5-6 days, until rooting occurs, they are watered with water, and then every other day - with a half-diluted Flora nutrient solution. If the gravel or sand dries out before this time (which happens in the summer), the plants are watered.
Plants such as asparagus, ivy or coleus grow well in water without a substrate, in a pot hanging on the wall. However, in order for them to develop well, the water should be replaced once a month; in a liter of water you need to dissolve half a tablet of the Flora nutrient mixture.

COMPOSITIONS FROM HOUSE PLANTS AND THEIR CONTENT
The hydroponic method is suitable for beautiful compositions that can be created from different plants by planting them in the same vessel. Use flowering, decorative deciduous and ampelous plants. Compositions in vases-boxes look especially beautiful. Plants planted in such vessels in groups look very impressive against the background of fine granite rubble. They will decorate shop windows, in particular flower shops, as well as various premises. Vases-boxes can be installed in groups or one by one, mounted in window sills or near windows, in ledges. When the boxes are hidden, the compositions are very beautiful, especially during the flowering period.
For compositions, you can use a variety of vessels, with the exception of plastic. The fact is that some types of plastic, reacting with a nutrient solution, cause the release of gases that are harmful to plants.
In addition, the initial color of plastic vessels changes, they are often deformed. For compositions, it is better to take clay, porcelain or metal vessels of various shapes and capacities (more on hydroponic vessels above).
For compositions, young plants should be chosen. They easily tolerate transplantation and take root much faster.
Plants are planted in containers in spring or early summer, at which time they better adapt to room conditions. Underdeveloped plants affected by pests and diseases are unsuitable for hydroponic cultivation in compositions.
How to cultivate plants indoors? First of all, the light and temperature conditions of the premises should be taken into account. One of the main requirements is light. Not only flowering, but also normal growth and development are impossible in the absence or lack of light. With a lack of light, the plants stretch out, their leaves become small, brittle, lose their elasticity. In addition, weakened plants are much faster affected by pests and diseases.
The best lighting during the day is received by plants on windows oriented to the southeast. South-facing windows get very hot in spring and summer. North windows give little light, and few plants grow well in these conditions, especially in winter.
Plants need fresh air, for which the premises should be ventilated by opening the vents, and in the summer - windows. In cold weather, windows should be opened briefly so as not to reduce the temperature in the room, while drafts are unacceptable. Drafts are especially harmful to tropical plants. Uzambara violet, for example, can die from a draft.
The normal development of plants also depends on the air temperature in the room. Not all plants tolerate low room temperatures equally. In winter, the air temperature in the room should not be lower than 8 - 10 ° and not higher than 15 - 18 ° C.
In winter, you should not place vessels with plants near the radiators, since the solution evaporates faster, and the plants are dried by a stream of hot air.
At any time of the year, it is necessary to remember about plant nutrition. It is necessary to change the nutrient solution in the vessels in the summer once a month, and in the winter - after 35 - 40 days.
Subject to the above requirements, the plants in the compositions will develop normally and acquire high decorative qualities.
When planting plants, one should take into account in advance the power of their development, the color and size of the leaves. When growing, some plants should not shade others. It is better to first consult with a specialist florist who will help you choose and place the plants in the composition correctly.
Since flower arrangements in vases-boxes can grow for a long time, they should be created taking into account the compatibility and decorativeness of plants. A well-chosen composition of flower and decorative leafy plants should give a certain range of colors, emphasize the beauty of each plant (Fig. 17).
The composition of ornamental leafy plants looks very colorful. In the first row, plants are usually planted undersized and ampelous, and in the second - larger ones. Here are some options for compositions that we recommend creating in metal boxes.
Option I. Calla lilies, dracaena - in the second row, in the foreground asparagus sprengeri and tradescantia zebra-shaped with white and red leaves.
Option II. Dracaena, coleus and nephrolepis fern are in the second row, in the foreground are uzambar violet and chlorophytum.
Option III. Arum, netcreasia and chlorophytum are in the second row, asparagus sprengeri and sansevier are in the foreground.
Option IV. Philodendron, dracaena - in the second row, in the foreground are indoor grapes, coleus and echeveria.
Option V. Calla lilies, sansevera and nephrolepis fern - in the second row, in the foreground echeveria, ivy and uzambara violet. Option VI. Sansevieria, dracaena - in the second row, in the foreground chlorophytum, uzambar violet and indoor grapes.
The given compositions of flower plants were studied and gave a good result when they grow together in hydroculture (Fig. 18).
You can create any composition, but be sure to consider where the plants will be. It is better to take perennial plants, in compositions they will grow without replacement for several years.
If the plants in the composition need to be replaced, old specimens should be removed, their roots should be selected, and gravel or granite rubble should be washed with water. In hydroculture, gravel or crushed granite screenings can be used as a substrate for many years.

COMPOSITIONS FOR FLOWER SHOPS
In flower shops, hydroculture departments should be organized, decorated with plants growing in hydropots or vases-boxes. In a large showcase, you can install vases-boxes with plants that make up the composition. Plants in boxes should not cover all the rubble, so the composition looks more beautiful. For shop windows of flower shops, the best compositions are from perennial flower, decorative-deciduous and ampelous plants.
The central and side walls in the store can be decorated with ampelous plants in hydropots. To do this, hooks and holder rings are driven into the wall. Pots reinforced with thin wire are hung on hooks or inserted into rings. Asparagus, tradescantia, especially netcreasia, look colorful on the walls, and nephrolepis fern in low places. In several places, you can also hang small shelves for 2 - 3 plants in hydropots. It is better to install ampelous plants on the upper tier of the shelf, and decorative leafy plants on the lower tier: aspidistra, eucharis, nephrolepis, sansevier and echeveria. They are not very demanding on light and are successfully used for decoration in places with less light. Plants can also be placed on trellises. Bent metal trellises look beautiful, where the central part of the square is tightened with a cord of neutral color for decoration. The cord is pulled in parallel, at intervals of 5 - 8 cm. Plants in hydro-horses are placed in the holder rings on the trellis, ampelous at the top, and below with decorative leaves. For trellises, you can use flowering plants: funkia, fuchsia, uzambar violet and calla.
When decorating a flower shop, it is better to paint vessels and coasters in neutral colors - gray, beige or dark brown, and coasters, holders - in gray or matching the tone of the walls of the store. This emphasizes the beauty of plants, the color of flowers and leaves.
In the hydroponic section of the store, it is necessary to have plants and seedlings growing in hydropots for sale, which should be grown by floricultural farms. For hydroculture, only plants that are in demand among buyers should be taken. In addition, hydropots, vases, bowls, flowerpots and other vessels, as well as crushed granite packed in 1 kg in plastic bags, fertilizer for indoor plants and chemicals to combat pests and plant diseases should be sold here. In flower shops, you can arrange consultations and conversations of specialists for lovers of indoor floriculture. It is expedient to include in the plan of conversations questions of agricultural technology of growing plants and accompany them with a practical demonstration. Design techniques presented in the branches of flower shops will help in decorating living quarters.

DECORATION OF ROOMS WITH FLOWERS
How to distribute flowers indoors? This question is very important, since their normal growth and development depends on it.
Of the above range of flowering plants, not all can grow in the same conditions. Depending on their origin, plants require a certain temperature and humidity, as well as light. Dry air in an apartment with central heating adversely affects plants. In order to humidify the air, the plants need to be sprayed periodically, and bowls of water should be placed between them.
Do not install many plants on the windowsill. This is ugly, and inappropriate, as they will darken the room, especially in winter. Therefore, plants - ampelous and with decorative leaves - can be installed on light metal structures with flowerpot holders. They should be placed in front of a window or not far from it.
In dimly lit areas of the room, shade-tolerant plants are placed - aspidistra, fern, dracaena, sansevier, etc. Plants can also be placed in the corner of the room, with large ones installed below, and smaller ones planted in a vase-box.
On the walls of the room, plants look beautiful, mostly ampelous (tradescantia, asparagus, grapes, etc.), placed in capsho. They develop well in a solution poured into a flowerpot; at the bottom of it you need to put a little crushed granite to fix the roots. The solution is changed every two months, and water is periodically added to the vessel with the plant.
Ampelous plants in hydropots look very beautiful if they are installed on the corner of a cabinet, decorative trellises, wall shelves, and also hung in front of windows.
Plants planted in porous stone look beautiful. In a stone - tuff or shell rock - they make depressions, fill them with sand, and stunted plants or cacti are planted in them. Such a miniature
the composition on the appropriate stand can be placed on the table anywhere in the room.
However, when distributing flowers in a room, it should be remembered that they will win only against the background of walls painted in a calm and plain color. Against the background of colorful walls or wallpaper, as well as carpets with a floral pattern, plants lose their decorative effect. In addition, the size of the room and the color of the furniture should also be considered. A small room does not need to be forced with a lot of flowers. From this it looks cramped, cluttered, and at night there will be little oxygen in it.
In an apartment painted in light colors and furnished with light furniture, you can install any flowers, especially those with dark green leaves. For rooms with dark walls and dark-colored furniture, light plants with bright colors of leaves and flowers should be selected.

HOUSEPLANTS PEST CONTROL
The appearance of pests and diseases of indoor plants are mainly associated with poor or improper care for them. Sharp fluctuations in air temperature, drafts, watering with cold water, excessive heat in winter are the main cause of plant diseases. Many plants do not tolerate dry air; the tips of their leaves die off (palm trees, dracaena). However, this does not happen with the hydroponic growing method, since the relative humidity of the air around the plants is much higher than under normal conditions. The evaporation of the nutrient solution contributes to the increase in air humidity.
Often indoor plants suffer from leaf scorch. This comes from careless spraying of plants with water or getting a nutrient solution on the leaves in bright sunlight. Burnt leaves die off. To avoid burns, plants should be sprayed at night. The nutrient solution should be poured carefully and preferably into the outer pot.
Pests usually settle on weak and damaged plants. Healthy, strong plants are less likely to be affected by pests. Plants cultivated by hydroponics are almost not affected by pests, however, cases of pests from other plants cannot be ruled out. Therefore, newly acquired plants must be kept separately for the first two weeks. After this period, making sure of the "purity" of the plant, you can transfer it to a permanent place.
Let us dwell briefly on pests and diseases found in plants, and measures to combat them.
Aphids are very small, brown, black or green insects that are clearly visible to the naked eye. They harm plants by feeding on their sap. They affect many plants, settle on the tops of shoots, young leaves, buds and flowers.
Control measures. Plants are thoroughly washed with water at room temperature with laundry soap dissolved in it, whipped to foam. A weak infusion of shag is also used.
A successful method of control is the use of dust (DDT). After pollinating the plant, the aphid dies in 15-20 minutes. The plants are then washed with plain water. This method is effective, but requires caution: when processing plants, you need to cover your face. Also, children should not be allowed to approach pollinated plants.
Shchitovka - an insect covered with an oval convex scale of light brown color. Scale insects are clearly visible to the naked eye, males and larvae move. Adult scale insects stick to the surface of the leaf and remain in one place. Striking trunks, steb-
li, leaf petioles and leaves of plants. They suck out the juice, as a result of which the leaves become discolored and fall off if severely damaged. Shoots also gradually dry up.
Control measures. The best way to fight is mechanical removal of scale insects by scraping. After that, using a brush, wash the plant with soapy water.
Spider mites are one of the most common and dangerous plant pests. Very small insects, reddish-orange in color, live on the underside of the leaves under a mesh of the finest cobwebs. They feed on the juice of the leaves, which gradually turn yellow and become "marbled".
Control measures. Pollination of plants with sulfur or dust from a gauze bag. To be more effective, this should be done on a sunny day. You can spray the leaves from the underside with cold water at the same time as pollination.
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that most commonly affects roses. The disease manifests itself in the form of a white powdery coating on leaves and shoots and quickly spreads to the entire plant. The leaves curl and then fall off, the growth of the shoots stops and they gradually dry out.
Control measures. Sprinkling the plant with water, pollinate it with sulfur. The process is repeated 2 - 3 times in ten days. You can also wash the affected leaves with a 0.5% solution of vitriol (5 g per liter of water).
A simple method is also used - the removal of affected leaves. It is used if it is possible to eliminate the disease at the very beginning in order to keep more leaves on the plant. The latter method of struggle is effective during the growing season.
Springtails are white, very small jumping insects. Usually settled in pots on the surface of the earth. If there are a lot of them, they can damage the roots of plants. Almost never found in hydroponic pots.
Control measures. Sprinkle the surface of the substrate with tobacco dust or dust.
Whitefly. A very small white insect resembling a moth. The females lay eggs on the underside of the leaf, from which the larvae emerge. Harm to the plant is caused by larvae and adult insects, they suck the juice from the leaves. The leaves gradually turn yellow and then fall off.
Control measures. Spray the plants with a 1% solution of DDT mineral oil emulsion (100 g per 10 l of water or 1 g per liter of water).

Hydroponics - it is a way of growing plants without soil. The word comes from the Greek. υδρα - water and πόνος - work, "working solution". When grown by the hydroponic method, the plant feeds on roots not in the soil, more or less provided with minerals, watered with clean water, but in a moist-air, highly aerated water, or solid but porous, moisture- and air-intensive medium, which promotes the respiration of the roots in a limited space pot, and requiring relatively frequent (or constant drip) watering with a working solution of mineral salts, prepared according to the needs of this plant.

Description

In hydroponics, the root system of plants develops on solid substrates (having no nutritional value), in water or in humid air (aeroponics). Coconut fiber is an example of an organic substrate: it is ground coconut shell and bast, from which iron and magnesium salts are washed. Nature provided coconut fiber as the initial soil for the roots of a newborn palm tree. Coconut fiber is lighter than water, therefore, when watering, it does not sink like soil, but swells, filling with air. Each fiber contains in its thickness a large number of pores and tubules. By the force of surface tension, the tubules are filled with the working solution, but the root hair drinks the contents, sprouting nearby. The smooth surface of the fiber allows the root to slide freely from the drunk micropore to the next one. Through a network of microtubules, coconut fiber distributes water and air throughout its entire volume. Coconut fiber, as a fully reclaimed, environmentally friendly substrate, is used on many Dutch hydroponic farms to grow perennials such as roses.

The depletion and pollution of land is not yet obvious, but the lack of water is already acutely felt in some regions, for example, in the UAE, Israel, Kuwait. In these regions, the problem of irrigation is acute. Currently, up to 80% of all vegetables, herbs, fruits in Israel are grown hydroponically. The US Army always has everything it needs to deploy hydroponic greenhouses for vegetables and herbs in the field. Hydroponics is an ideal solution for hot, dry countries, since by saving water at times, you can harvest many crops per year.

In greenhouse cultivation in the northern latitudes, hydroponics also shows excellent results, in the presence of additional illumination of the greenhouse with lamps.

The development of hydroponics in Russia is associated with the growing interest in the so-called. “small farms”, where greens, vegetables, flower and berry crops can be grown on an industrial scale on a small area. Drip irrigation systems are becoming more and more popular. They allow you to create in a short time and at low cost an irrigation system for both traditional land cultivation and for hydroponic installations such as drip irrigation.

Benefits of hydroponics

Hydroponics has great advantages over the conventional (soil) growing method.

Since the plant always receives the substances it needs in the required quantities, it grows strong and healthy, and much faster than in the soil. At the same time, the yield of fruit and flowering ornamental plants increases several times.

Plant roots never suffer from drying out or lack of oxygen when waterlogged, which inevitably occurs with soil cultivation.

Since water consumption is easier to control, there is no need to water the plants every day. Depending on the selected container and growing system, you need to add water much less often - from once every three days to once a month.

There is no problem of lack of fertilizers or their overdose.

Many problems of soil pests and diseases (nematodes, mole crickets, sciarids, fungal diseases, rot, etc.) disappear, which eliminates the use of pesticides.

The process of transplanting perennial plants is greatly facilitated - there is no need to free the roots from the old soil and inevitably injure them. It is only necessary to transfer the plant into a large bowl and add the substrate.

There is no need to buy new soil for transplanting, which greatly reduces the cost of growing indoor plants.

Since the plant receives only the elements it needs, it does not accumulate substances harmful to human health that are inevitably present in the soil (heavy metals, toxic organic compounds, radionuclides, excess nitrates, etc.), which is very important for fruit plants.

No need to mess with the ground: hands are always clean; hydroponic vessels weigh little; in the house, on the balcony or in the greenhouse, it is clean and tidy, there are no extraneous odors flying over the pots of sciarids, and other unpleasant factors associated with soil cultivation.

Simplicity and cheapness.

Methods

There are the following methods of growing plants using hydroponics:

• hydroponics (water culture)
• hydroculture (substrate culture)
• aeroponics (air culture)
• chemoculture (culture of dry salts)
• ionoponics

Hydroponics (water culture)

Hydroponics (water culture) is a growing method in which a plant is rooted in a thin layer of organic substrate (peat, moss, etc.) laid on a mesh base, lowered into a tray with a nutrient solution.

The roots of plants through the substrate and the openings of the base descend into the solution, nourishing the plant. With the hydroponic method of growing plants, aeration of the roots is difficult, since the oxygen contained in the nutrient solution is not enough for the plant, and the root system of the plant cannot be completely immersed in the solution. To ensure the breathing of the roots between the solution and the base, an air space is left for young plants 3 cm, for adults - 6 cm. At the same time, care must be taken to maintain high humidity in this space, otherwise the roots will dry out quickly. The nutrient solution is replaced once a month.

Aeroponics (air culture)

Aeroponics (air culture) is a method of growing plants without a substrate at all.

The plant is fixed with clamps on the lid of a vessel filled with nutrient solution in such a way that 1/3 of the roots are in the solution, and the remaining roots are in the air space between the solution and the lid of the vessel and are periodically moistened. In order not to damage the stem of the plant with the clamp and not to prevent it from thickening as it grows, it is recommended to use soft elastic pads, for example, from foam rubber.

In addition to the above method of growing plants on aeroponics, you can use the method of pollinating the roots with a nutrient solution. To do this, a fogging sprayer is placed in the vessel where the roots are located, with the help of which a nutrient solution in the form of tiny drops is supplied to the roots 2 times a day for 2-3 minutes.

With aeroponic cultivation, it is especially important to take care of maintaining high humidity in the space surrounding the roots so that they do not dry out, but at the same time provide air access to them.

Chemoculture

Chemoculture, or dry salt culture, in which plants take root in an organic substrate soaked in a nutrient solution. (for example, "Dutch" cacti is one of the options for the culture of dry salts).

Ionoponics

Ionoponics - originated one and a half - two decades ago ionoponic - the culture of growing plants on ion-exchange materials. As a substrate, ion-exchange resins, fibrous materials, blocks and granules of polyurethane foam are used.

Completely new possibilities for the reproduction of especially rare species and forms are provided by in vitro propagation methods, when a whole plant is obtained from a piece of its tissue or even a single tissue cell. The essence of the method is that really rich nutrient solutions are used (and even with vitamins and hormones) and under normal conditions microflora will immediately settle there. To avoid this, the explant is cultured under sterile conditions.

The mechanical substrate for plants is usually agar. This is a seaweed jellied meat.

The most widespread is hydroculture - a method in which plants take root in a thick layer of mineral substrate (gravel, expanded clay, vermiculite, etc.).

Types of plants that can be grown soilless

At present, the technology of growing plants without soil throughout the year, using a special nutrient solution to feed them, has gained great popularity. This technology is called hydroponics and allows you to "garden" anywhere in your house or apartment.

Generally speaking, almost all types of plants can be grown in a soilless way. Let us first consider seedling plants that can be transferred to a soilless type of cultivation. The most proven such crops that live without problems on a nutrient solution are philodendron, phalangium, ivy, ficus, fatsia, common ivy, hoya.

When growing crops from cuttings or seeds using soilless technology, the choice of plant can be absolutely free. In addition to the above, asparagus, anthurium, indoor linden, coleus, begonia of all varieties, cissus, dracaena, monstera, dracaena have proven themselves well. Separately, I would like to highlight the well-known cactus, which grows on a nutrient solution literally before our eyes, striking with a huge number of large spines.

Calcephobic plants, such as azalea, camellia, various types of heather, grow well without soil if the substrate is chemically treated with acid and the pH value of the solution is maintained in the range from 4.7 to 5.8. Bromeliad crops (bilbergia, guzmania, vriesia, aregelia, tillandsia), which are mainly epiphytes (they feed on both roots and leaves), grow well without soil, provided that their leaves are filled with a solution that is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 10.

The most common soilless vegetable crop is the tomato. In addition to it, kohlrabi, cucumbers, and radishes develop well. Great aesthetic pleasure can be obtained by breeding a banana in a nutrient solution. A banana requires a lot of nutrient solution, but after a year it “swings” up to two meters in height.

Thus, as you already understood, if you comply with all the requirements (for lighting, thermal conditions, the necessary level of air circulation and some others), which are individual for different types of plants, then absolutely any plant can be grown using soilless technology, getting indescribable pleasure from your year-round home garden. It is undesirable that asphalting be carried out next to the planted plants, because cars will often drive on it and this can damage them. The only exceptions are cars equipped with HBO from Slavgaz. They certainly won't do any harm.