Surface drainage: step by step instructions. Surface and ground water drainage system Drainage systems for surface water drainage

An integral part of a private house or cottage is a storm sewer, which provides an aesthetic appearance of a residential building and the area adjacent to it. As well as preventing premature destruction of the foundation of buildings and the roots of plants growing on the site. To an inexperienced person in the field of "water disposal" this moment may seem like a dark forest. In this article, we will analyze everything point by point: the removal of surface, storm and melt water, from buildings and the site.

To create a storm sewer, which is also a surface water drainage system, elementary knowledge in construction and data on the most landscaped area are required. Storm sewerage is gravity, i.e. arranged at an angle, and includes the following elements:

1. Roof drainage;
2. Drainage drainage;
3. Collector or place of discharge of drainage.

Roof drainage receives atmospheric precipitation at roof level, through trays, gutters, funnels and sends them to the surface drainage system.

Designing a surface water drainage system

To design, you need to know:

• the average amount of precipitation (both in the form of rain and in the form of snow, melt water), you can find out in SNiP 2.04.03-85;
• roof area;
• the presence of other communications and facilities in the area being developed.

For design, it is necessary to decide in what places the drainpipes will be located and how many there will be. A diagram is drawn up, which displays the elevation differences in the surface of the site, the structure on it. The diagram indicates the places for laying all elements of storm sewers, including pipes, manholes and water discharge points. When designing, the amount of required materials and the cost of them are also calculated.

Roof drainage

The material of the roof drain is varied: steel, copper, color-coated steel, aluminum, etc. Plastic is especially popular. It is economical, resistant to damage, is a noise-insulating material, hermetic, light both in weight and in installation. To properly design a roof drain, you will need:

1. Metal bracket;
2. Stud with special nut;
3. Adjustable fastening;
4. Gutter bracket;
5. Tip;
6. Coupling;
7. Knee;
8. Funnel plug;
9. Gutter plug;
10. Corner element;
11. Funnel;
12. Gutter connector;
13. gutter;
14. Drainpipe.

The number and type of each element depends on the perimeter of the roof and the amount of liquid being pumped, because too powerful drainage is irrational in terms of financial costs, and a weak one will not cope with the task. It is necessary to find the best option. The figure shows the required dimensions, typical for central Russia.

Installation of a water drainage system from the roof of the house

Installation is carried out after the development of the project of the entire drainage system, familiarization with the instructions attached by the supplier store (each system has its own design features that must be taken into account). The general sequence of installation and work performed:

1. Installation begins with mounting the bracket on the side of the rafter wall or frontal board, taking into account the slope of the gutters.
2. Then the gutters themselves are laid using special plates and fastened to each other by cold welding or rubber seals. The cold welding method is preferred for joining gutters due to its resistance to warping.
3. An additional bracket is installed in corner and funnel connections.
4. Pipes are being installed, observing a distance of 3-4 cm from the wall. Brackets are vertically mounted at a distance of 1.5-2 m. The drain itself should be half a meter from the ground.

Tips from professionals:

• Gutters begin to be laid from the funnel so that the edges of the gutter are below the edge of the roof.
• If you use a pipe for collection from three directions of gutters (if the roof is of a non-standard shape), it is necessary to provide tees instead of standard funnels.
• The distance between the brackets should be no more than 0.50-0.60 m.
• It is recommended to pre-mark the slope of the gutters. For example, a rope stretched from the start to the end point can serve as a guide.
• Plastic drips are mounted at a temperature of + 5◦, otherwise the material will crack when cutting. Outflows from other materials can be mounted at any ambient temperature.

The device of the surface water drainage system

Surface water diversion system or surface drainage consists of point drainage systems and linear channels.

Point drainage systems are small wells locally connected to the roof drain. Trays are laid below the freezing level of pipes. The installation of such drainage is similar to the installation of a roof drain. A trench is being prepared (lower than the freezing depth of pipes, you can find out everything in the same SNiP) at a slope to the collector. Sand is poured in a layer of 20 cm. Pipes are laid using fittings. If the sealing is observed, the pipes are filled up.

Linear channels are of two types - open or closed, equipped with gratings or nets to retain large debris. The gratings should be predominantly made of metal, as withstand heavy loads (especially in places at the entrance to the garage).

Advice from professionals. For the effective collection of surface water, a complex arrangement of storm and point drainage is necessary. In the event of heavy rainfall, the bulk of the water will be carried away by surface drainage..

You can see how the process of installing a surface water drainage system looks in the video:

Deep drainage system provided if the area where the site is located is prone to prolonged rains. Such a system will protect the site from erosion, save trees from premature death (due to rotting roots), and protect the foundation from the destructive effects of water.

Groundwater drainage system

Groundwater drainage differs from the systems described above in that it is laid at a greater depth and in the case of groundwater close to the surface of the earth, which can flood a basement or underground garage. Drainage is combined with a storm drain, and the storm pipes are laid higher than the drainage. It is necessary to understand the difference between storm water and drainage. Stormwater for the removal of rain, melt water and floods, and deep drainage for the removal of groundwater and possible flooding. Surface and deep drainage are connected using special nodal connections for the accumulation of excess water in one place and its subsequent release, processing or reuse. Drains are mounted parallel to each other.

This is important: during heavy rainfall, water in large quantities passes through the storm sewer in a short time. When such a water flow enters the groundwater drainage system, this water enters the soil from the pipes, thereby not draining it, but flooding it, that is, it begins to perform the opposite function. Therefore, the surface water drainage system should be connected to the groundwater drainage system not earlier than the places where the pipes pass for water drainage and not drainage, if you look at the direction of water flow into the systems. Soil drainage is carried out in places where perforated pipes are laid. Water is drained by sealed pipes.

According to the method of groundwater extraction, they are divided into vertical, horizontal and combined drainage. Vertical drainage consists of vertical ribbed wells lowered into the groundwater layer. They are equipped with pumps and filters, respectively, for cleaning and pumping groundwater outside the territory. Such a scheme is quite complicated both in installation and in operation.

Horizontal drainage consists of perforated pipes laid at the optimal depth of the pumping outlet in dug ditches sprinkled with gravel. Ditches are dug throughout the site in the form of a Christmas tree.

The drainage device, regardless of the type of site, begins with the arrangement of a drainage well in the farthest part of the site, away from the house. You can use ready-made plastic wells.

In places of corner joints, manholes are arranged to facilitate the maintenance of communications.

The depth of the drainage is selected based on its tasks: if the goal is to collect groundwater to protect the basement, then the depth should correspond to the level of the basement floor; if the goal is to drain abundant waters sinking into the ground, the depth corresponds to the depth of the foundation.

The pipes are wrapped with special material () to prevent sand and gravel from entering the pipes, with which the pipe is covered with a layer of 20-30 cm. After that, the pipe can be covered with ordinary soil. Unlike vertical drainage, water collected through holes in pipes is discharged by gravity under a slope, and not by pumps.

Horizontal drainage is more popular than vertical or even combined because of the cost-effectiveness and ease of installation.

You can read more about the device of the groundwater drainage system in the article:

Discharge of collected water

excess water is removed outside the site, into a ditch, reservoir. If this is not possible, then a well or reservoir is arranged within the site, from where water can be reused.

Advice:

It is recommended that drainage be laid in ditches with V-shaped walls with a wall slope of 30◦ in the cross section of the ditch. Width 50 cm Recommended ditch slope1-3 cm per meter of length. Wells can be equipped from any material that does not corrode.

Maintenance of drainage systems

Maintenance of the above systems is not difficult if they are properly designed and constructed. Key points in service:

1. Once every ten years, carry out a thorough flushing of pipes with a pump to prevent deposits on their walls.
2. Regular visual inspection of wells, sewers and cleaning if necessary.

The shelf life of a properly calculated, laid, maintained drainage system is on average fifty, or even much more years.

Tips from professionals:

1. Be sure to check that the pipes are laid at a slope. The slope should be away from the house.
2. If it is impossible to install a gravity drainage system, a pressure ebb equipped with a pump is arranged.
3. Do not forget about the optimal design and compliance price = quality.Very often you want more, better, but the budget does not always allow you to implement your plan. So it is recommended to design, compare the project with prices, purchase and install in accordance with the recommendations given here.

It is possible to prevent damage caused by melt water and heavy rainfall by arranging a surface drainage system. This system serves to collect and remove excess precipitation, which often floods the adjacent area, and with it fruit trees (and other plantings), foundations and basements. The article will focus on the surface drainage system.

Benefits of surface drainage

The device of the system does not require serious financial investments, due to the reduction of earthworks. As a result, the probability of violation of the structural strength of the soil, that is, subsidence, is reduced.

• Due to the organization of an external drainage system of a linear type, the coverage of the territory for the catchment area has been significantly expanded, while such a value as the length of the sewer line is reduced.

• The system can be carried out without violating the entire integrity of the existing pavement. Here the insert is carried out according to the width of the gutters.
• The system is suitable for mounting on rocky or unstable ground. And also in those places where it is not possible to carry out deep work (architectural monuments, underground communications).

Types of drainage systems

Drainage systems are part of storm sewers that are used in the improvement of both public and private areas. There are 2 types of systems: linear and point.

• Linear system consists of gutters, a sand trap, and sometimes a storm water inlet. This design does its job well in large areas. With its organization, earthworks are minimized. Its installation is necessary in areas with clay soil, or the slope of which is more than 3º.

• Point system is a locally located storm water inlets, united underground by pipelines. The system is optimal for collecting water coming from roof gutters. Also, its installation is advisable in areas with modest areas or when there are any restrictions for arranging a linear drainage system.

Each system is characterized by efficient operation, but their combination is the best option when organizing drainage.

Drainage device for drainage

For the organization of linear or point drainage, various elements and devices are used, where each component fulfills its purpose. Properly combining them leads to effective work.

gutters

Drainage trays - an integral part of the linear system, serve to collect precipitation and melt water. After that, excess moisture is sent to the sewer or, at least, removed away from the site. Channels are made of concrete, polymer concrete and plastic.

• Plastic products light weight and easy to install. Especially for this, plugs, adapters, fasteners and other elements were developed to facilitate the process of assembling and installing the system. Despite the high technical characteristics (strength and frost resistance) of the material used, they are limited by the load - up to 25 tons. Such gutters are installed in suburban areas, pedestrian areas, bicycle paths, where high mechanical impacts are not provided.

• Concrete trays- Undoubtedly strong, durable and affordable. They are able to withstand a very solid load. Their installation is expedient in places where vehicles travel, for example, on access roads or near garages. Steel or cast iron gratings are installed on top. A reliable fastening system does not allow changing the position during operation.
• Polymer concrete channels combine the best performance of plastic and concrete. With a small weight, the products take on a significant load and are distinguished by higher physical and technical properties. Accordingly, they have a decent cost. Thanks to the smooth surface of the gutters, sand, sparse leaves, branches and other street debris pass through without difficulty. Proper installation and periodic cleaning guarantee a long service life of the drainage system.

Sandboxes

• This element of the system is responsible for filtering water from sand, earth and other suspended particles. The sand trap is equipped with a basket in which extraneous debris is collected. Equipment installed in the immediate vicinity of the sewer drain will provide the most efficient operation.
• Sand traps, like trays, must match the type of load. Since this element is in the same bundle with other components of the drainage system, it must be made of the same material as the rest of the chain links.

• Its upper part has the same shape as the gutters. It is also closed with a drainage grate, so the sandbox is invisible from the outside. It is possible to reduce its level of location (below the depth of soil freezing) by installing these elements on top of each other.
• The design of the sand trap provides for the presence of side outlets for connection to underground storm sewer pipes. Outlets of standard diameters are located much higher than the bottom, so fine particles, settling, remain there.
• The sandbox can also be made of concrete, polymer concrete and synthetic polymers. The package includes steel, cast iron, plastic gratings. Its choice is made depending on the expected volume of water to be removed and the level of load in the area of ​​​​its installation.

rainwater inlets

• Melt and rainwater collected by downpipes from the roof of the building enters the blind area. In these areas, storm water inlets are installed, which are square-shaped containers. Their installation is also advisable in those places where it is not possible to equip a surface drainage of a linear type.

• Since the storm water inlets function as a sand trap, they are complemented by a garbage collector, which is regularly cleaned and a siphon that protects against odorous substances coming from the sewer. They are also equipped with nozzles for connection to underground drainage pipes.
• Most often they are made of cast iron or durable plastic. The upper part has a grate that perceives loads, prevents large debris from entering and performs a decorative function. The grate can be plastic, steel or cast iron.

Drainage grids

• The grate is part of the surface drainage system. It takes on mechanical loads. This is a visible element, so the product is given a decorative look.
• Drainage grating is classified according to operational loads. So for a personal, suburban area, products of class A or C are suitable. For these purposes, plastic, copper or steel gratings are used.

• Cast iron products are famous for their durability. Such gratings are used in the arrangement of territories with a high traffic load (up to 90 tons). Although cast iron is susceptible to corrosion and requires regular painting, there is simply no alternative to it in terms of strength.
• As for the service life of drainage gratings, cast iron products will last at least a quarter of a century, steel products - about 10 years, plastic gratings will have to be changed after 5 seasons.

Drainage design

The calculation of the system over large areas is carried out according to the hydroproject, which takes into account the slightest nuances: precipitation intensity, landscape design and much more. Based on it, the length and number of elements of the drainage system are determined.

• For suburban or summer cottages, it is enough to draw a plan of the territory on which the location of the drainage system is marked. It also calculates the number of gutters, connecting elements and other components.

• The channel width is selected depending on the throughput. The optimal width of the trays for private construction is 100 mm. In places with increased drainage, gutters and up to 300 mm wide can be used.
• Attention should be paid to the diameter of the branches. The standard cross section of sewer pipes is 110 mm. Therefore, if the outlet has a different diameter, an adapter must be used.

The rapid outflow of water through the canal will provide a sloped surface. You can organize the slope in the following ways:

• use of natural slope;
• by carrying out earthworks, create a slope of the surface (with minimal differences);
• pick up trays with different heights, applicable only in small areas;
• purchase channels whose inner surface is sloped. As a rule, such products are made of concrete.

Stages of a linear drainage device

• By means of a stretched twine, the boundaries of the drainage system are marked. If the system passes through a concrete platform, the marking is carried out with sand or chalk.
• Next is excavation. A jackhammer is used on an asphalted area.
• The width of the trench should be approximately 20 cm larger than the tray (10 cm on each side). The depth under the gutters of light materials is calculated taking into account the sand cushion (10-15 cm). Under concrete trays, first a layer of crushed stone is laid, and then sand, 10-15 cm each. It should be noted that the drainage grate after installation should be located 3-4 mm lower than the surface level. The bottom of the trench can also be filled with lean concrete, but such actions are performed if the passage of vehicles is not provided.

• A drainage system is being assembled. Trays are laid in the trench and, by means of fasteners, the tenon-groove are fixed to each other. Often, products are marked with an arrow indicating the direction of water movement. If necessary, the joints are sealed with polymeric components.
• Next, the sand trap is mounted. The drainage main is connected to the sand collector and sewer pipes by means of fittings.
• The empty space between the gutters and the walls of the trench is covered with crushed stone or previously excavated earth and carefully compacted. It is also possible to fill with sand and gravel mortar.
• The installed channels are closed with protective and decorative gratings. It is worth noting that if plastic trays are used when arranging the drainage system, then the grate is installed and the space is filled with concrete mix.

Stages of arranging a point drainage system

• In areas with the greatest accumulation of moisture, a pit breaks out. The width of the pit should be equal to the size of the storm water container. It should be noted that the grid should also be slightly below the ground.

• Excavation is also carried out in the places where the line is laid for a linear outlet or pipes. Here it is important to observe a slope of approximately 1 cm per linear meter of surface.
• The bottom of the pit is rammed and a sand cushion is arranged, with a layer of 10-15 cm. A concrete mixture about 20 cm thick is poured on top of it.
• Next, a storm water inlet is installed, to which drainage trays or sewer pipes are connected.
• At the end, a siphon is mounted, a waste basket is inserted and a grate is installed.
• The design of the storm water inlet allows you to install several containers on top of each other. This makes it possible to deepen the outlet pipe below the freezing of the soil.

Shallow channels

Stony soils make it difficult to install standard sized gutters. In this regard, some manufacturers offer products with a shallow depth, where the height of the channel is 95 mm.

• Usually trays are made of plastic with high physical and technical indicators. The package includes drainage gratings made of galvanized steel with abrasion-resistant polymer coating.
• Such channels are widely used in areas with a small amount of wastewater. With their help, it will be possible to organize effective surface drainage with minimal excavation.

A timely installed and well-organized drainage system will protect the foundation and green spaces from seasonal flooding, and give the landscape a well-groomed appearance. Construction costs will pay off quickly. The system will extend the life of the building, reduce the cost of repairs and additional maintenance. The laborious and costly fight against mold in the basement due to high humidity will bypass.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for stormwater. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

2.187. It is necessary to include permanent and temporary (for the period of construction) devices for the removal of surface water in subgrade projects.

Surface drainage can be omitted when designing a subgrade in areas of sand distribution in areas with an arid climate.

The diversion of surface waters to low relief places and to culverts should be provided for: from embankments and semi-embankments - ditches (upland, longitudinal and transverse drainage ditches) or reserves; from slopes of cuts and half-cuts - by ditches (upland and beyond the banquet); from the main platform of the subgrade in recesses and semi-cavities - using cuvettes or trays.

2.188. The system of facilities for collecting and draining surface water from the subgrade at the sites of industrial enterprises should be developed in conjunction with the project for the vertical layout of the site, taking into account sanitary conditions, the requirements for protecting water bodies from pollution by sewage and landscaping of the enterprise, as well as taking into account technical and economic indicators.

To collect and drain surface water, open (cuvettes, trays, drainage ditches), closed (storm sewers with a network of shallow and deep drainage) or a mixed drainage system are used.

2.189. The scope of work on the design of drainage devices includes: determination of the volume of flow to the drainage devices of the drainage basin; selection of the type, size and location of the drainage device, allowing the use of earth-moving machines for its construction, as well as for cleaning during operation; the appointment of a longitudinal slope and water flow rate, excluding the possibility of silting or erosion of the channel with the accepted type of slope and bottom strengthening.

2.190. The minimum dimensions and other parameters of drainage devices should be assigned on the basis of hydraulic calculations, but not less than the values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven in Table. 20.

Cuvettes should be designed, as a rule, with a trapezoidal transverse profile, and with appropriate justification - semicircular; the depth of ditches in special cases is allowed to be set to 0.4 m.

The greatest longitudinal slope of the bottom of drainage devices should be assigned taking into account the type of soil, the type of strengthening of slopes and the bottom of the ditch, as well as the allowable water flow rates in accordance with Appendix. 9 and 10 of this Manual.

If the maximum allowable longitudinal slope of the drainage device for the given design parameters is less than the natural slope of the terrain or the longitudinal slope of the subgrade at water flow rates of more than 1 m 3 / s, it is necessary to provide for the device of fast currents and differences designed individually.

Table 20

2.191. The cross section of the drainage devices should be checked for the passage of the estimated water flow using automated hydraulic calculations in accordance with appendix. 9 of this Guide. In this case, the probability of exceeding the estimated costs should be taken,%:

for pressure ditches and spillways .................................................................. .5

longitudinal and transverse drainage ditches and trays ........ 10

Upland and spillway ditches for railways on the territories of industrial enterprises should be designed for costs with a probability of exceeding 10%.

2.192. On the watershed of two adjacent basins, it is necessary to provide for the construction of a dividing dam with an upper base of at least 2 m with a slope not steeper than 1: 2, with an excess of its height of at least 0.25 m above the calculated water level.

2.193. An open drainage system on on-site tracks is only allowed if the customer so specifies. When diverting water with cuvettes in subsidence, swelling, and heaving soils, it is necessary in the project to provide for measures against water infiltration from cuvettes into the subgrade by appropriately strengthening them.

If it is necessary to pass water through the path, including for bypassing water from a cuvette, intersleeper trays are used, while checking the sufficiency of their depth to pass water with the existing marks of the bottom of the cuvette.

2.194. It is not allowed to design the release of atmospheric water from ditches and ditches into:

watercourses flowing within the settlement and having a flow rate of less than 5 cm / s and a flow rate of less than 1 m / day;

stagnant ponds;

reservoirs in places specially designated for beaches;

fish ponds (without special permission);

closed hollows and lowlands prone to swamping;

eroded ravines without special strengthening of their channels and banks;

swampy floodplains.

2.195. In case of contamination of rain and melt water with industrial waste from chemical enterprises, treatment facilities should be provided.

Drainage devices should be placed in the right of way. The distance from the outer edge of the slope of the drainage device to the boundary of the right of way must be at least 1 m.

In places where watercourses exit onto the slopes of ravines and lowlands, drainage devices must be laid away from the subgrade and provided for their strengthening.

2.196. In areas with the presence of groundwater, upland ditches, as well as drainage devices within the excavations, should be developed in conjunction with groundwater drainage measures. When the groundwater horizon lies at a depth of up to 2 m from the surface, the upland ditch, with its appropriate strengthening, can serve to drain water from the subgrade, and if the groundwater occurs deeper, the deepening of the upland ditch below the aquifer is prohibited. In this case, other measures are envisaged to protect the subgrade from the impact of groundwater.

2.197. With a closed system, water is removed from the site of the enterprise using storm sewers. In this case, from the drainage trays, ditches and drainage pipes of the longitudinal drainage system, water is discharged into storm water wells with gratings. Wells in this case should have sedimentation tanks, and gratings should have gaps of no more than 50 mm.

2.198. A mixed drainage system in a built-up area is used in cases where the requirements for landscaping and the construction of storm sewers apply only to part of the site, and in the rest of it open drainage is acceptable when wastewater treatment is required.

With a mixed drainage system, the requirements for the installation of open and closed drainage systems should be observed.

2.199. The distance from the rain sewer pipelines to the axis of the outer track of the railway with 1520 mm gauge should be less than 4 m.

The distance between storm water wells is allowed to be taken according to Table. 21.

Surface water diversion (Drainage) is arranged for the purpose of diverting surface water through trays, pipes and ditches to various low places and watercourses.

1. Types and methods of construction of surface water drainage.

2. General information about surface water diversion.

3. A specific example of the organization of water drainage from the surface of the site.

There are three types:

1. Open

2. Closed

3. Combined.

With an open drainage system, surface water as well as water houses are diverted along flumes or ditches to numerous low places and watercourses. In the case of a closed water drainage system, surface water is collected in the trays of the carriageway or flows directly into the water intake wells, and then is discharged through the pipes of the underground drainage into thalwegs and watercourses.

With a combined drainage system, surface water is collected from the area adjacent to the house for discharge into an underground drain. In urban areas, open ditches are not suitable, because they are difficult to maintain in a sanitary condition. In addition, you have to arrange crossing bridges for each house. Water is best diverted along the trays, which in urban conditions are formed during the installation of gaps - slopes. Subsequently, they are strengthened by paving or installing concrete curbs.

The minimum slope of flumes or ditches is taken equal to 0.05 ‰, and in exceptional cases 0.03 ‰ is taken. In cities and large settlements, closed drainage is widely used, especially in flat and flat terrain, which makes it difficult for ditches and flumes to work. If there is an underground drainage, then the terrain slope can be designed if necessary with a slope of less than 0.05 ‰.

In all low places of the sawtooth profile of the tray, water intake wells are placed every 50-60 meters.

Weir systems for the removal of surface water

When designing the drainage of surface water from the site, the direction of the main drainage mains is first established. Then the direction of the main highways is combined with lower places by thalwegs. But mostly they arrange closed drains and have highways in the direction of the slope of the area, along streets or buildings.

Drainage systems in the territories adjacent to the drain are designed taking into account the discharge of surface water into the main highway. Initially, surface water, due to slopes, enters the spillway system (it may consist of drainage pipes or trays) and then is discharged by slopes into the drainage wells (in Figures 1 and 2). Drainage wells are located approximately at a distance of 50-60 meters from each other and serve to receive water and further distribute it through pipes with a diameter of 30-40 centimeters to the street drain.

Each street (in urban and other developed settlements) has its own drain, and through an extensive network of pipe drains, the entire flow is discharged into the main drain. The main drain receives the entire flow of wastewater and discharges it into a river or thalweg. When designing a main drain, the laying depth is calculated based on the possibility of further connection of all drain pipes to it from the adjacent streets of the settlement.

The slope of the drain pipes is taken equal to the slope of the terrain or on the basis that when the pipe is filled to 1/3 of the height, the wastewater velocity in the drain pipe was not less than 0.75 m / s. This speed in the drain pipe will avoid the accumulation of sediment in the pipe. In order to prevent water from freezing in the pipe when the soil freezes, the pipe laying depth is taken taking into account the depth of soil freezing. In this case, the drainage pipe is laid below the estimated depth of soil freezing.

An example of the removal of surface water from the site

Plot layout

Planning for the removal of surface water from the area adjacent to the house requires the implementation of large volumes of earthworks. Therefore, in such cases, they cannot do without special earth-moving and planning equipment. The easiest way is to plan the surface of the site in such a way that the water flows by gravity into low places.

But this is not always possible. The reasons may be different, such as local topography or compact living. You cannot direct surface water from your territory to your neighbor.

Another option for surface water diversion is the construction of catchment wells. Such wells are located at a calculated distance from each other, and the slope of the site is planned in such a way that surface water is directed directly to them by gravity. From the water intake wells, water is directed further through pipes connected to the street pipe line for water drainage or have access to lower places for discharge. To drain surface water using this method, it is necessary:

Laying pipes

Laying of drainage pipes

1. Dig a trench around the entire perimeter of the house for laying pipes and give them the necessary slope. The minimum slope required for water flow is 0.05 ‰. The diameter of the pipe is taken according to the calculation and depends on the catchment area and the estimated amount of sediment. In most cases, a pipe diameter of 15-30 cm is taken.
Laying in the ground prefabricated water intake wells

Laying of water intake wells

2. At the required distance from each other, water intake wells should be laid in the ground. Water intake wells can be prefabricated from reinforced concrete rings or monolithic from reinforced concrete.

The device of monolithic reinforced concrete water intake wells

The device of a monolithic reinforced concrete well

For the device of monolithic reinforced concrete wells, it is necessary to put together and install the formwork, then make a knitted or welded frame from steel building reinforcement and install it in the formwork. Then, the concrete mixture should be poured and the concrete should be kept in the formwork for several days.

underlying sand layer

Sand compaction

3. At the bottom of the excavated trench, it is necessary to arrange a sending layer of sand about 30 cm high. The sand layer is made of coarse sand, and the surface of the sand cushion is also given the minimum required slope. Further, they are taken for compaction of the sandy feeder layer and the drainage pipes are laid along the compacted sandy layer.
Docking of drainage pipes with a well

Seal joints with cement mortar

4. The ends of the drainage pipes are brought inside the well and the joints are sealed with cement mortar. At the same time, from the bottom of the pipe to the bottom of the well, a minimum height (15-40) cm is left, which is necessary for cleaning wastewater from silt. After joining the drainage pipes with the wells, the drainage pipes should be covered with sand and compacted. Next, the trench is covered in layers with soil and each filled layer of soil is compacted.
Installation of reinforced concrete cover

Reinforced concrete cover - hatch

5. Wells are closed with special prefabricated concrete covers, which can be made by hand on your own or can be bought complete with concrete rings.

Well-maintained water well

Well-maintained water well

A cast-iron grate is installed above the reinforced concrete cover, which will prevent various debris and tree branches from entering the catchment well.