Step-by-step production of a wooden staircase. Making wooden stairs, on a metal frame and on concrete marches with your own hands for a private house

Detailed and simple diagram for a standard staircase to the second floor.

Are you planning to build a private house on two floors or more? We recommend that you immediately plan what the staircase will be like. And we will help with this - this material describes in detail about the types for cottages, summer cottages and private houses, design requirements. Also, with the help of diagrams and drawings, we will use an example to show how a staircase is calculated and built. The design is quite simple - it cannot be compared with a roof, so even the owner, who has only minimal building skills, can make it. We will tell you how to make it so that instead of a wooden ladder you don’t get a stepladder. Having studied the drawings and diagrams, you can make a high-quality design.

Kinds

Two types have been used in private homes for centuries, which we will briefly consider:

• marching. This option is the simplest in execution, while the design is reliable. If a beginner takes up the matter, then a marching wooden staircase will be an excellent solution. Also, the design can be divided into one-march and two-march. Despite the differences between these types, their manufacturing complexity is the same.
• screw. Work for professionals, as it requires careful measurements and calculations. One miscalculation can ruin the entire structure, so only a master can do it with his own hands. The main advantage of this design is its compactness, because the design occupies a minimum amount of space in the house. Often a spiral wooden staircase is the center of the interior composition. The only negative is a rather steep climb, which adversely affects safety.

Of course, we will disassemble the mid-flight staircase, although we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the screw options. With your own hands, it is easier to perform a marching version, to which there are drawings.
Another disadvantage of a spiral staircase is that it will be inconvenient to carry large items from one floor to another.

Preparation of materials and features of work

Before you think about building with your own hands, you need to draw up or take ready-made drawings, as well as prepare tools and materials for the stairs connecting the second floor to the first.

Let's start with materials for the construction of the structure on the second floor:

• screws;
• thick boards, which will later turn into steps;
• bars - the cross section must be at least 40 millimeters.

It is impossible to complete the work without a drawing, the image below shows in detail what needs to be measured, so that in the end it is possible to calculate the dimensions of the future structure.

It is also worth considering the following dimensions when planning a structure for the second floor from the first:

• the angle of the stairs;
• width;
• the height of the entire structure;
• number of steps.

If you have skills in working with a 3D editor, then you can make a detailed diagram. For example, the project will demonstrate whether a stepladder can be made from a ladder. It is also recommended to study the drawings.

Blueprints

The simplest drawing of a marching staircase to the second floor, which the owner can make with his own hands. The drawing shows a rather large structure, but sometimes such a staircase leads to the second floor.

Knowing the distance between floors, you can calculate the number of steps. For example, the height from floor to floor is 290 centimeters, the steps are 20 cm each. After simple calculations, 14.5 steps are obtained. It is necessary to round up to 14 or 15. In the first case, the height of each step should be 20.71 cm, and in the second - 19.33 cm.

The example uses integers - the height of the stairs to the second floor is 260 cm, each step goes 20 cm, as a result there are 13 of them. As for the dimensions of the flight of stairs, its width should not be less than 70 centimeters. In the big direction, the slope can be anything. In the example discussed in this article, the flight of stairs is 1 meter wide.

It is also worth considering the platforms that will be below and above. The dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the flight of stairs. The ideal shape would be a rectangle or square.
These are the simplest schemes for making a wooden staircase to the second floor. The main thing is to choose a convenient angle of inclination, so that in the end there is no stepladder.

The most reliable option is a straight ladder. The U-shaped option is suitable for private houses, where there is a large area. A beginner is unlikely to master the L-shaped design.

Selecting an installation method

In the design of the future stairs may be present:

• Bowstrings. This word refers to beams that support structures on both sides.
• Kosoura. The second option is the beams that hold the steps of the stairs from below.

Mounting

When the steps, platforms and beams are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the stairs with your own hands. In the example, a variant with stringers is considered. In advance, you need to make notes for the place of their installation. On the floor of the first floor, the stringers are installed on the support beam. In the place where the stairs go to the second floor, the supporting elements are placed in the gaps in the floor beam. In some cases, metal supports are used that serve the same purpose. The fastening of the stringers is carried out using anchor bolts.

During the installation process, you should always have a building level at hand, you can also determine the position by the body kit so that at the end you don’t get a ladder. Elements of a wooden structure must be installed perfectly level. The tread panels must be fixed on top of the stringers, it is most convenient to do this with self-tapping screws.

Steps ready? So you can start installing balusters on the floor. At the top and bottom of the structure, support posts are mounted that limit the handrails. They are also decorative and supporting elements.

Now installation:

1. Finished balusters must be covered with handrails (handrails), which are mounted on support posts. If the structure is large, then additional support will not interfere in the middle of the stairs.
2. Sometimes 3-4 racks are required. In this case, you should not waste your energy on balusters, since even boards will be a more rational solution.
3. After completion of the assembly, the wooden surface must be carefully sanded. You can do this with your own hands or with a power tool.
4. Next comes the preparation before painting: all debris and dust are removed, it must dry completely. If necessary, puttying is performed after grinding. Of course, wood coatings are needed for this work.
5. When the preparatory work is completed, you can paint the wooden elements. A primer is applied, and then 1-2 coats of paint. After drying, it is necessary to cover the structure with varnish. Alternatively, you can take a stain.

The result is a comfortable staircase with which you can comfortably and safely climb to the second floor. If the angle is calculated correctly, then there will be no ladder.

In this article, we will talk about how to make a wooden staircase for the porch of a house on your own. Consider the features of the choice of material for the stairs and the basics of its processing.

You will find out where to start work, what formulas to use to calculate the optimal design of the stairs and the required amount.

We will tell you in what sequence to carry out the installation of stairs for the porch.

The staircase at the entrance to the dwelling plays an important role, and its arrangement must be given utmost attention, since it takes on a large load.

Let's try to figure out how to make a porch with your own hands, choose the right material, shape and color of the structure, so that it creates harmony with the porch of the house.

To create a staircase for the porch, wood is most often used. The popularity of this material is due to its environmental friendliness and attractive appearance. In addition, it is easy to work with wood, you can create any design and even order handrails with ornate carvings from the masters.

Advantages of wooden stairs to the porch

• Ease in material processing;
• Light weight does not create obstacles for the transport of wood;
• Ability to create fancy decorative designs;

Disadvantages of wooden stairs to the porch

The disadvantages of some types of wood for creating a wooden staircase for the porch of a house can be compensated for by the correct selection of material.

How to choose wood for stairs to the house

Most often, for wooden structures that will be installed outdoors, pine or larch is used, since they have a number of positive characteristics.

Pine stairs

• Needs periodic processing from rot;
• The density of the material is low compared to larch;
• Can be easily processed;
• The cheapness of wood and its widespread use make it popular.

Larch stairs

• High density of wood (the material can last for centuries and turn into stone);
• Resistance to putrefactive processes and deformation;
• high cost;
• It has a low prevalence in the building materials market, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits growth is small. The importation of larch from remote regions only increases its cost.

Thus, pine is a more affordable and budget material for making wooden stairs to the porch with your own hands. Larch, if desired, can be afforded by homeowners for whom expenses are not of great importance.

Drawing up a drawing of a wooden staircase for a porch

This stage before starting work is a mandatory item in the process of creating stairs for the house. To make a high-quality sketch, it is necessary to carry out careful measurements and calculations, taking into account the following parameters:

Structure height

Stair steps are distinguished by the method of connecting them to each other. It can be roll-shaped, rectangular, beveled.

There is also a classification behind the form:

• in the form of a wedge;
• rectangular;
• triangular;
• rounded.

Coloring

Important! When painting pine material, one must take into account the fact that the resins in the wood are impregnated unevenly. Therefore, before applying paint or varnish, remove excess resin on the surface of the material using a solvent.

Processing of wooden structures is carried out using enamels, varnishes, paints, impregnations. When choosing products for finishing wood, consider its appearance, choose a shade close to natural.

Having decided on the color, proceed to the choice of paint. Highly pigmented paint for wooden stairs to the porch is designed to cover defects, it is applied over putty. Their disadvantage is that they hide the beauty of the tree.

To decorate the house with a beautiful wooden staircase, it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on it. If you like crafting, you can make it yourself. Next, we will describe in detail how to build a wooden staircase at home.

Before you build a wooden staircase with your own hands, we determine the type of its construction.

All existing stairs are divided into two main types:

1. screw- have steps located around the axis;
2. marching- the design consists of even steps forming a straight march.

It is not worth it for a beginner to take on the construction of a wooden spiral staircase, since it is quite difficult to make it. In addition, they look interesting, but at the same time very inconvenient to use.

It is more expedient to make a marching structure. Depending on the nuances of the device, it is divided into several subspecies:

• Single-march- are the simplest designs, as they do not have a landing;

• two-march- the design contains two marches, between which there is a landing or turning steps.

Two-flight stairs, depending on the location of the mershey relative to each other, are also divided into several subspecies:

• Straight lines - both marches are located along a straight line;
• L-shaped - marches are located at right angles;
• U-shaped - the angle between the marches is 180 degrees.

I must say that there are still multi-march structures, but in private construction they are used extremely rarely, since they are not necessary. As for the choice of form, then be guided by the size of the room and its features.

In some cases, it is advisable to install an L-shaped structure, placing it along the walls, while in others, in order to save space, it is better to place the marches at an angle of 180 degrees.

Construction technology

So, we figured out the types of structures, now we are building wooden stairs with our own hands.

Let's break the whole process down into five steps:

1. Design;
2. Preparation of materials
3. Assembly and installation of the structure;
4. Finishing.

Design

Before you build a wooden staircase to the second floor, so that it is not traumatic.

The following lists all the basic requirements that must be taken into account when calculating:

• We make all steps with the same parameters. Since when moving along them, a person’s muscle memory works, so steps of different depths or heights will make the stairs extremely traumatic;
• The dimensions of the steps are selected taking into account the step of a person. Therefore, the main parameters must be within certain limits:
  1. height - 140-250 mm;
  2. depth - 250-330;
• Avoid long marches - if the design contains more than 14-15 steps, it is advisable to break it into two marches;

• Do not save space due to the angle of inclination. A march with an angle of more than 45 degrees is inconvenient to use, which means it is traumatic.

When starting calculations, measure the parameters of the room, namely, the height of the ceiling and the area allotted for the structure. For example, the height is 2.8 meters. This value is the starting point from which we start the calculation.

To begin with, we find out how many steps are needed, for this we take an arbitrary optimal step height - 18 cm. Now we divide the height of the structure by the height of the step - 280/18 = 15.55 pcs.

Since the quantity cannot be fractional, we will correct the height - 260/16 = 17.5 cm, i.e. we have 16 steps 17.5 cm high. Please note that there will be no last step, instead we have a floor on the second floor.

We will divide the structure into two marches of 8 steps. In fact, each march will have 7 steps + landing or floor.

Now we calculate the depth of the steps using the formula - 2b + c = a, where:

• a - the length of a person's step, which is in the range of 60-64 cm;
• b - height, in our case is 17.5 cm;
• c - desired depth.

From this formula we find the desired depth of 62-35 \u003d 27 cm. This value fully complies with the above requirements.

Knowing the depth of the step, we calculate the length of the march, i.e. the projections of each march onto the floor are 27x7 = 189 cm. We will make the width of the march 1 m, so that it is convenient for one person to descend or climb along it. As for the landing, it must also have a depth of at least 1 m.

If the design turned out to be too large, i.e. does not fit in the area allotted for it, the main parameters can be corrected, i.e. increase the height of the steps and reduce their depth, but within the allowable values.

• a - march length;
• b - march height
• c - the desired length of the beams.

Now that we have figured out the calculations, we need to decide on the design and prepare a drawing, according to which the construction of a wooden staircase will be carried out.

Note! The basis of the march is the beam. It can be flat or with cutouts for steps. The first is called a bowstring, and the second is called a kosour.

Next, we will consider how to build wooden stairs on two stringers, since they are more durable and, moreover, look more attractive, however, they are made somewhat more complicated. In addition to the steps, the stairs will have risers that hide the space between the steps.

Note! If the width of the march exceeds one meter, the number of beams must be increased. So for a two-meter march you will need at least three stringers.

As for the landing, it is a simple structure on four pillars, which is sheathed on top with boards. Also, the stairs must have a fence. In our case, this will be a handrail mounted on racks (balusters).

Advice! Having decided on the nuances of the design, draw it on paper and indicate the dimensions of all the details.

Preparation of materials

Building a wooden staircase with your own hands requires the following lumber:

• "Sorokovka" 300 mm wide for beams;
• Board 3x30 cm for steps;
• Boards 2x20 cm for risers;
• Beam 100x100 for platform racks;
• Paintwork.

For fencing, if you do not have a lathe, it is more advisable to purchase ready-made balusters. The price for them starts from 200 rubles.

A set of tools will require a standard:

• Hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Chisel and hammer, it is desirable to have a milling cutter;
• Electric drill;
• Roulette and pencil;
• Screwdriver.

Advice! To install the structure, you will need a wooden construction ladder. If you do not have such a ladder, it is not difficult to make it. To do this, take two beams or two boards, and fasten the jumpers between them with nails or screws. As a result, the ladder will learn.

Of course, more convenient to use wooden stairs construction type "ladder". They are made quite simply - for this you need two ladders, the ends of which are connected by metal axes in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe upper edge.

To fix the ladder, you can make jumpers from wooden planks with hooks. Their task will be to withstand the spacer load, preventing the ladder from “parting”.

Manufacturing and installation

So, our goal is durable and beautiful wooden stairs - see how to build them below:

Illustrations	Actions
	We start by marking the beam according to the project. We draw lines of steps and risers. The angle between them should be 90 degrees. We draw the lines of steps at an angle equal to the slope of the stairs, so that after installing the beams, the cutouts are horizontal. Note! The length of the cutout under the steps should be 5 mm shorter than the depth of the step, which will allow for a slight overhang.
	We cut the beams according to the markings with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
	We cut the stairs and risers from the boards.
	Installing platform stands. To do this, we attach glasses to the floor under the beam with anchors or self-tapping screws, after which we insert supports into them. We connect all racks with jumpers.
	We mark the location of the beams on the racks.
	We install the beams of the first march. We fasten to the supports with self-tapping screws and strengthen with self-tapping screws. If there is a milling cutter, we make a groove in the rack, and we mill a spike in the beam, for a more rigid and reliable fit.
	Then we install the beams of the second march. We fasten them to the floor and racks of the site. We use corners for this, as shown in the photo. Note! Beam cutouts must be in the same horizontal plane.
	Now we sheathe the beams with boards. We fasten the steps and risers with screws so that their hats are slightly deepened. Be sure to pre-drill holes for the screws.

Advice! During construction, it is desirable to glue wooden stairs. To do this, you can use ordinary carpentry or, for example, epoxy glue. As a result, the structure will not creak and will be more rigid.

This completes the bulk of the work. Now it remains to install the fence and finish the stairs.

Fencing installation

Now we will make a wooden staircase railing - the construction of this structure is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	To install the balusters, in each step we drill holes according to the diameter of the dowels, and paste the dowels into them. All of them should be located on the same line so that the fence is neat.
	At the end of the balusters, we drill holes for the dowels and also lubricate with glue.
	We string the posts on the dowels and leave for a while until the glue dries.
	We cut off the tops of the balusters so that the handrail is parallel to the march. To do this, you can fix a board or timber on them with clamps, as shown in the photo.
	We fasten the handrail to the balusters in a hidden way. To do this, screw the screws at an angle from below. We pre-drill holes so that the balusters or handrails do not crack.

Finishing

In order for you to get beautiful and durable wooden stairs, complete the construction with a quality finish. It is performed as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	We start finishing with an inspection of the structure. All existing flaws, such as cracks or chips, are covered with putty to match the color of the tree.
	Then we go over the surface with a fine sandpaper or grinder.
	We get rid of dust on the surface of the product, for example, with a vacuum cleaner.
	We cover the product with varnish using a paint brush. Let's start with the fence. Then varnish the march. After the varnish has hardened, repeat the work at least once.

Note! If you use a water-dispersion varnish, after the first layer has hardened, it must be sanded, as water lifts the wood fibers. If this is not done, the surface will be rough.

That's the whole step-by-step instruction for building wooden stairs.

Conclusion

Now you know how a do-it-yourself building staircase made of wood is designed and assembled. The most important thing is to work carefully and carefully, and then making a staircase will not cause you any difficulties, even if you have little experience working with wood. The attached video in this article will give more information.

Today, most country houses are built with two or more floors. And in this case, the question arises of moving between levels, or rather, with the construction of stairs. For these purposes, you can use a variety of materials, both traditional and modern. But probably, one of the most popular materials for the construction of stairs (and other structures) is wood. It's beautiful, relatively inexpensive, and you can do everything yourself. This article will discuss how to make a wooden staircase with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

Before you start building a wooden staircase in a country house, it is worth considering some details. First, it is worth deciding on the type of construction. In private housing construction, the most commonly used two types of stairs:

• marching;
• screw.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, for example, a spiral staircase made of wood will take up much less free space. But at the same time, such structures are difficult to implement. In addition, the stairs themselves turn out to be rather narrow, it can be difficult for a “big” person to walk along it (not to mention the transfer of large-sized furniture or objects).

The most common option for a private house is considered wood stairway. Such designs can be easily made by hand. They are quite spacious and easy to use. Mid-flight stairs, depending on the height of the second floor, can be with one or two spans. But there is no fundamental difference in the construction of each type.

Second, worth decide on some more options. Namely:

• how much free space you can allocate for the installation of stairs;
• what is the height between floors;
• what is the maximum load the ladder will have to withstand;
• what parts the structure will consist of (what type of steps to choose, what is their height and width, what fences to use, etc.).

You can decide on the appearance by looking at numerous photos and videos from the Internet. Here you can find original solutions, some of which can be fully implemented on your own, with your own hands. Also from the video you can get acquainted in more detail with the instructions for the manufacture and installation of wooden stairs.

After you have decided on the type of wooden staircase and its components, it is worth preparing all the necessary material. But for this you need to do the calculations of the future design and its drawing. at first calculate all scores. Namely:

It is also worth considering the width of the clearance above the stairs. When you climb the stairs, it should be free above your head so that you do not hit. The length of the kosour or bowstring is also calculated.

Preparation of the necessary material and tools

Knowing all design parameters, one can prepare the right material. Wooden stairs can be made from different breeds. Many experts recommend using oak, beech or larch. But such materials are quite expensive. The most commonly used conifers. They are strong enough, easy to process and inexpensive.

When buying wood, it is important to pay attention to its quality. On the boards there should be no places of decay, fallen knots and deformations. Also make sure that the wood is well dried.

For the installation of wooden stairs in the house you will need:

• bars for stringers, their thickness should be at least 50 mm, and the width should be in accordance with the dimensions of the steps. The length of the bar should be enough for the entire length of the march; it is not allowed to sew two bars together;
• boards for tread with a thickness of 40 mm;
• boards for risers 30 mm thick;
• balusters, railings and other additions are best purchased ready-made, they will have a more aesthetic appearance;
• galvanized self-tapping screws, screws and anchor bolts for fastening.

In addition, it is necessary prepare the tool for work. Namely:

• devices for marking and measuring (tape measure, rulers, building corner);
• to make holes you will need a drill (preferably electric);
• a hacksaw for wood (for large parts) and a hacksaw for metal (for small parts);
• a screwdriver or better a screwdriver with a set of nozzles;
• hammer and chisel for making grooves;
• planer (preferably electric);
• sanding cloth.

And, of course, a detailed drawing should be at hand.

Building a ladder

Now let's get acquainted with the installation instructions for the most wooden stairs in the house. The drawing is ready, the materials and tools are in place, you can proceed. Ladder installation do it yourself in the following sequence:

This completes the ladder assembly. Remains only cover all surfaces protective layer of varnish. If you wish, you can cover all surfaces with paint.

If there is a desire to build a wooden staircase in a country house with your own hands, then this business is quite feasible. The main thing is to carefully calculate everything, make a preliminary drawing and pick up good material. And then a little effort and time spent and a beautiful and comfortable wooden staircase, made by hand, is ready. It will certainly decorate your home and bring coziness and comfort to it.

A wooden staircase with your own hands is made quite simply. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of building a wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.

All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:

1. Design;
2. Construction assembly.

Design

A staircase is a rather complex structure, so it is simply impossible to make it without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main steps:

Step 1: Determining the type of structure

All existing types of stairs can be divided into two types:

• Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winders located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
  Keep in mind that such stairs are inconvenient to use, and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take on the construction of a spiral staircase;

• Marching. These stairs have smooth marches (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.

Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:

• Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
• Rotary with winder steps. They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning (winder steps);

• Rotary with landings. Flat platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;

• "Duck step". The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, only one foot can stand on a step, hence their name.

Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.

The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a "duck step" staircase, which requires a minimum of floor space on the ground floor. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a turning staircase with marching platforms.

Stage 2: calculate the stairs

At this stage, you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:

• Number of treads;
• riser height;
• The angle of the stairs;
• March length;
• The area that the stairs will occupy on the first floor.

Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:

• Step sizes. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The width of the tread should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
  Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the stairs will turn out to be traumatic;
• The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a platform.
  In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that a person ends the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began to move up the stairs;
• March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
• Railing height. At least 90 cm.

Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.

Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.

To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any within 160-190 mm. For example, let's take a height of 180 mm, in which case we will have the number of steps 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.

Since we need an even amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.

Tread width calculation. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:

• a - riser height;
• b - tread width.

From this formula we get the width of the tread 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within the acceptable range.

March length calculation. Now it remains to calculate only the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection on the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 \u003d 499.8 ~ 5 m.

Since the stairs will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two marches. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the platform, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.

The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.

If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.

Calculation of the length of the kosour or bowstring. The calculation of the kosour is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs in the square + the height of the stairs in the square = the length of the kosour in the square.

Stage 3: draw up a drawing

Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:

• Kosour. Bearing beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;

• Bowstring. It is also a carrier beam. It differs from the kosour by the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam by the butt.
  To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;

• Steps. They consist of two elements - tread (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). I must say that the design of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.

What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for the steps, however, the ladder on the stringers is able to withstand a large load.

Making stairs

Consider how a ladder is made of wood with your own hands. This process can be conditionally divided into several stages:

Stage 1: preparation of stringers

The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm.
	Beam preparation. Cut boards 40x300 mm along the length of the stringer according to the design calculations.
	Kosour markup. For marking, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must match the angle of inclination. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can perform the following steps: Lock the kosour in working position; Mark a cutting line for the bottom of the board that will rest on the floor; Mark the first tread and riser with a square. In the process of marking, use the level so that the step is parallel. The distance from the cut line to the first tread should be equal to the height of the step; Mark the remaining treads and risers, focusing on the markings of the first step.
	Cutting out the kosour. Carefully cut out the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool. In the same way, make all the other stringers.

To make paired kosours exactly the same, use the first kosour as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.

Stage 2: frame assembly

Now we need to make the remaining elements of the ladder frame, and install them. The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. In addition to the kosour for assembly, you will need: Beam 70x70 mm or 100x100 mm; Boards 40x300 mm; Glass for timber (fastener); Joiner's glue.
	Mounting the kosour to the wall: Fix the kosour on the wall in working position; Make sure the stringer is installed correctly. To do this, attach the level to the cutouts under the steps - they must be located strictly horizontally; Fix the beam with anchors or self-tapping screws (if the wall is wooden); In the same way, attach the stringer of the second span to the wall. In order for the beams to be positioned correctly, it is advisable to mark the walls before installing them.
	Support post installation: Designate the location of the support column for the landing; Fix the post to the floor with a special glass and dowel-nails. Step back from the installed pole 10 cm (span spacing), and install a second pole on which the beam of the upper span will rest.
	Column marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second stringer. To do this, you can use a laser or water level.
	Installation of the second stringer: Treat the junction of the stringer with the pole with carpentry glue. It is advisable to pre-mill the junction. Connect the stringer to the post; On the back of the post, screw in a few self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them.
	Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span.
	Site frame assembly: If the site is adjacent to the walls, fix 40x300 mm boards on the walls at the level of the site; If the site does not adjoin the walls, install additional supports and pull them together with rails, as shown in the photo example.

This completes the installation of the frame. If your stairs are straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.

Stage 3: cladding stairs

Sheathing stairs is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage we will need: Wooden boards 30x300 mm; Joiner's glue; Clapboard.
	Marking steps and treads: Mark the boards according to the dimensions of the treads and risers; If the treads are rounded, mark with a template.
	Cutting details. Use a jigsaw or other tool for this purpose. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for sheathing the landing. Keep in mind that the tread should hang over the riser by a centimeter or two.
	Hole drilling: Mark the location of the screws on the parts; Drill holes.
	Processing the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this.
	Installation of steps and risers. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws.
	Sheathing the space under the stairs: Fasten the rail on the floor under the outer stringer, as shown in the photo; Sheathe the space between the floor and the stairs with clapboard. The boards are attached to the lower rail and stringer, and are also connected to each other into a lock.
	Upper flight lining: Fasten the slats between the stringers; Attach the lining with self-tapping screws to the stringers and cross rails.

Stage 4. railing installation

Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is small - the cost of figured pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles apiece.

The installation process of balusters and railings looks like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. To equip the railing you will need: A set of balusters; handrails; dowels; Paint glue.
	Installation of dowels for balusters: Mark the treads so that all the dowels are on the same line; Drill holes according to the diameter of the dowels; Coat the holes with wood glue; Drive dowels into the holes.
	Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this: Drill a dowel hole in the bottom end of the baluster; Lubricate the hole with glue; Put the baluster on the dowel; If the baluster is located close to the tread, it can be additionally “grabbed” with self-tapping screws.
	Preparing balusters for handrail installation. Cut the top of the posts at an angle equal to the angle of the flight of stairs.
	Fastening handrails to the outer posts: Treat the junction of the handrail to the posts with glue; Screw the screws from the bottom into the handrail obliquely so that they enter the column, as shown in the photo.
	Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters. Treat the junction of the balusters to the handrail with wood glue. Screw the self-tapping screws obliquely into the balusters so that they fit into the handrail.

The process of manufacturing a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that's left is to do the finishing touches.

Stage 5: finishing

As a rule, in the process of finishing, wooden stairs are varnished, stained or impregnated with their own hands. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Description of works
	Materials. For finishing you will need: Putty on wood (selected to match the color of the tree); Paintwork.
	Puttying: Remove any dust and dirt from the surfaces you will putty; Fill with putty the recesses of the self-tapping screws, as well as small cracks and other flaws in the wood, if any; Level the surface immediately with a narrow spatula; After the putty has hardened, it is necessary to clean its surface with sandpaper.
	Sanding: Sand all flat surfaces with a grinder; Treat areas of complex shape with sandpaper manually.
	Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth.
	Varnishing: Apply the varnish in a thin, even layer with a brush; After the surface has dried, apply the varnish again; Upon completion of varnishing, the surface should be polished. It is desirable to cover a wooden staircase with a matte varnish or impregnation. Covered with a glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around.

As you can see, stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so for their manufacture it is enough to have basic woodworking skills.

Conclusion

We examined the process of making stairs with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can take on the job yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of work - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.