Partitions in wooden houses and log cabins. Partitions in a house made of timber: what should be, what can be made of, tips, photos, videos Interior partitions in a timber house with your own hands

Frame partitions in a wooden house are recommended to be installed after the process of the most intensive shrinkage of the structure is completed. So, for wild log cabins erected from a forest of natural moisture, this period can take 1.5-2 years, and for buildings made of timber or logs - from 5-6 months to a year. Wooden frame or houses from, subject to all the requirements of their construction technologies, practically do not shrink. Therefore, the installation of interior partitions (re-walls) in them can not be put off indefinitely, but proceed to it immediately after laying the roofing.

Requirements for partitions and materials used

Interroom partitions made of wood are used to organize the main internal layout of the building or to isolate individual functional areas in the premises. They are lightweight self-supporting structures, as they are not subjected to loads from floors or roofs. Their installation is possible almost anywhere, without preparing the foundation, directly above the ceiling.

Partitions in the house must meet the following requirements:

• have a small mass so as not to create an excessive load on the floor structure;
• be characterized by the minimum possible thickness to preserve the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises;
• guarantee sufficient strength to hold hanging furniture, household appliances, interior items;
• provide the required sound insulation of one room from another;
• be assembled from materials that are well combined with the load-bearing enclosing structures.

Assembly features and construction materials

When choosing materials for the construction of a partition in a wooden house, one should also take into account their cost, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, resistance to moisture (for rooms with high humidity). For frame elements, you can use a wooden beam (with a cross section of 50x50 mm) or a board (with a thickness of 40-50 mm and a width over the section of the partition), which have undergone appropriate treatment with hydrophobic, antiseptic and flame retardant compounds. The installation of a supporting skeleton from a galvanized profile of plasterboard systems is not excluded. For rails, UW from 50x40 mm is suitable, for CW racks from 50x50 mm. Partition surfaces can be formed from sheets of drywall, plywood, OSB, fiberboard, wooden clapboard, blockhouse, and also plastered on unplaned board and wooden lath.

The issues of soundproofing partition walls require an integrated approach. They are solved depending on the type of enclosing structures and the requirements for the effectiveness of the acoustic barrier. For example, for an interior partition in a log house between the kitchen and the dining room (living room), it is quite enough to lay mineral wool for general construction purposes with a density of 30-35 kg / m 3 with a layer thickness of 50 mm. If the layout of the sleeping room is carried out, then it will require enhanced noise protection. It should be equipped with profile soundproof varieties of basalt wool such as Acoustic Butts from Rockwool or Technoacoustic from TechnoNIKOL. But in order to create a truly "quiet" room, the thickness of the mineral wool layer in the partition must be at least 100-150 mm.

The diagram below shows an approximate comparison of the acoustic characteristics of partition walls with different internal structures. The effectiveness of sound insulation against airborne noise is determined by the Rw index, the higher it is, the better. It is obvious that the highest noise protection rates can be achieved when assembling double partitions. They are characterized by an internal separating air gap and external sheathing with at least two layers of sheet material.

IMPORTANT! If a frame partition in a wooden house is used to separate a room with high humidity, then a prerequisite is the laying of a waterproofing film in its design. The hydrobarrier is mounted from the side of exposure to water vapor. It prevents condensation of moisture in the fibrous layer, which ensures its safety and long-term performance.

Arrangement of compensation gaps

The constituent elements of a building made of wood materials are subject to constant deformation changes throughout the entire period of their operation. They are caused, first of all, by high hygroscopicity of wood. Its fibers, saturated with moisture, swell or shrink, drying out. Neither preliminary chamber drying of natural material, nor its treatment with special chemical compositions allows to completely prevent these processes. Therefore, even after the completion of the most active phase of shrinkage of the structure, at which the humidity of its supporting structures reaches its minimum values, compensation gaps should be provided for all embedded elements. Thus, the partition in a wooden house will not be squeezed between opposite walls or between the ceiling and the floor, which means it will not be deformed.

In established buildings

compensation gaps along the perimeter of the partition are left at least 10 mm. After sewing the frame with sheet material, the gaps near the walls and floor can be filled with mounting foam. It is able to firmly hold the partition, while simultaneously playing the role of a shock-absorbing pad. But it is recommended to fill the expansion joint above the partition with fibrous material (felt, tow, mineral wool).

In new buildings

If frame partitions in a wooden house must be installed immediately after its construction, then the gaps above them should be increased by 50-80 mm (standard shrinkage value). Consequently, the height of the mounted structure will be less than the height of the overlapped opening between the floor and the ceiling by 60-90 mm. The reserves for compensation of deformations near the walls remain the same - 10 cm from each of the vertical ends of the partition.

Partitions in a wooden house made of hewn wood or round logs can be matched with walls in two ways. The first way is to cut reciprocal grooves in the logs of the walls along the line of the vertical end beams of the partitions. Tow is stuffed into the grooves between the bars and walls or strips of mineral wool are placed for additional heat and noise insulation. The method provides excellent alignment of structures without interfering with their mutual vertical displacement. However, if an unforeseen redevelopment of the interior space of the room is necessary, rectangular samples of wood will remain on the wall. Making them invisible can be quite difficult.

The second way is to arrange the frame elements with compensation indents from the walls. At the same time, the mating areas are closed either with curly, cut out for logs, or with straight skirting boards with shelves of 40-50 mm. In a similar way, it is possible to decorate the joints of partitions with the floor and ceiling, choosing the dimensions of the plinths in accordance with the size of the deformation gaps.

IMPORTANT! Fastening of corner strips is allowed only to one of the surfaces. For vertical - this is to the wall or to the partition. Forhorizontal - only to the ceiling or floor, since they cannot be attached to the partition!

What tools are required to assemble frame partitions

The device of partitions in a wooden house with their own hands is carried out mainly on the basis of lumber. Therefore, for their processing and installation, you will need the following tools:

• electric or chainsaw, electric jigsaw, but you can get by with one hand saw;
• drill, screwdriver;
• slick;
• axe;
• a hammer;
• tape measure, square, float level, pencil;
• construction stapler.

It is convenient to mark the location of the structure with a laser level. You can also get by with a dyeing thread or a simple twine. They are fixed on opposite load-bearing walls, allowing you to mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the floor and ceiling.

The sequence of installation of a wooden frame partition

Important! Often, partitions do not need to prepare a special base. However, in the case of their installation over significant spans of ceilings or the installation of a massive structure, it may be necessary to strengthen its base. In this case, an additional beam is laid with its ends resting on the foundations of the walls.

Frame manufacturing

1. On the ceiling, floor and load-bearing walls, the projection lines of the frame partition are marked.
2. Rigid fastening of the end beam is allowed only to the floor. The horizontal bearing element can be immediately installed on a thick damper pad, for example, from felt; or fix it on steel brackets with a gap, which will subsequently be filled with mounting foam.
3. Install vertical end bars, securing them with temporary rigid connections with the walls.
4. In together with the location of the future doorway, two rack beams are also mounted. Their vertical position is controlled by a float level, and temporary fixation is carried out by oblique struts to the floor.
5. Install the upper horizontal end element. Often it is made up of several parts connected by steel plates. The plates are placed on the upper and lower planes of the bars. It is recommended to pre-calculate the places of such connections so that they are above the vertical racks.
6. After assembling the frame of the frame partition, the internal vertical posts are mounted with a step of 600 mm. It is optimal for laying mineral wool thermal and sound insulation with a standard slab width of 610 mm.
7. It is recommended to make horizontal jumpers from short bars inside the formed cells in a checkerboard pattern (taking into account the height of the sheathing material, if it is sheet). This will not only facilitate the fixation of jumpers and sheets, but also give the frame additional rigidity.
8. At the location of the doors, a horizontal element is mounted to the vertical bars, limiting the top of the opening. It is reinforced with an additional short vertical post to the upper horizontal bar.
9. Rigid temporary connections with walls are replaced with floating ones. They are made in the same way as for.

Important! Having a certain professional skill, you can avoid establishing temporary connections. The end vertical bars are initially fixed with floating elements, as shown in the figure below.

Filling and sheathing

1. After the cells are filled with mineral wool, the wooden interior partition is sheathed on both sides with a vapor barrier membrane (it is shot with a stapler). At the same time, it is important not to confuse the direction of vapor diffusion - it must be provided with an exit in the direction from the heater, i.e. partition from inside. The strips of the membrane are fixed with overlaps, and the places of punctures with staples, damage and joints are glued with adhesive tape intended for this purpose.
2. If the frame is sheathed with drywall, OSB or plywood, then their sheets are fixed with offset joints, which are then puttied. The resulting surfaces can play the role of rough or semi-finishing and are subject to further processing in accordance with the selected technology. If a lining or blockhouse is used as a lining, then they only need to be coated with paints and varnishes.

Finally

Interior partitions in a wooden house are not complex engineering structures, so they are quite capable of being installed independently. To carry out the work, it will be enough to have basic carpentry skills, as well as the presence of a minimum set of household tools. However, in this case, you will have to show patience, be careful in performing the operation of marking and fitting the elements of the partition.

Do not forget about the rules of electrical installation and fire safety, if electrical communications are laid inside the partition. It is important to remember that hidden wiring in wooden structures is only allowed in metal pipes (steel or copper).

It can be divided into two types - single, double, as well as multilayer:

• Single - these are partitions between rooms, which are made of boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm, such partitions do not have an internal soundproof layer and can be classified as thin-walled partitions between the premises of a house.
• Double - these are frameless double-walled partitions in which it is possible to make a soundproof layer.
• Multilayer - these are partitions assembled from two or more layers of boards.

The basis for partitions from boards

Partitions made of boards are lightweight compared to brick partitions, and such partitions do not perform the function of load-bearing walls (they do not serve as a support for interfloor ceilings), therefore, a capital foundation is not required for their foundation. The basis for the partitions of the boards are floor beams or flooring. The location of the partitions can be done both along and across the floor beams.

Materials for the device of partitions from boards

If we talk about what building materials are used for the construction of plank partitions, then their name itself indicates that the main building material from which such partitions are made are boards. In most cases, these are edged or unedged boards made of coniferous trees, such as spruce or pine, with a thickness of at least 40 mm. The recommended humidity of boards is no more than 12%.

The construction of partitions from unplaned boards is carried out if further plastering of the surface of the walls of this partition is provided. In other cases, it is advisable to use an edged board, and if wall decoration is not provided, then in this case the front surface of the boards should be smooth - it is necessary to process this surface with a planer and sand it.

As a result, we get the following materials:

• Edged board not planed.
• Edged board planed (polished from the front side).

Partitions from boards are made from vertically (rarely horizontally) installed boards, which form a solid wall of the partition. The partition boards are fastened to the bars, which are attached to the surface of the ceiling and floor. Consider the main points of the device double and single partitions.

Do-it-yourself double partition from boards

A double partition of boards is usually done like this:

1. Bars (A) are attached to the floor and ceiling, then boards are attached to these bars.
2. First, one wall of the partition (B) is assembled from the boards, placing the boards vertically.
3. Control bars (C) are attached to the finished wall of the partition (B). The distance between the bars depends on the use of the material that will fill the space between the walls of the partition, if the space is not filled, then the control bars can be fixed at a distance of 400 - 500 mm from each other.
4. After fixing the control bars (B) and if a soundproofing layer was required (D), the second wall of the partition (E) is recruited.
5. If it is necessary to arrange a doorway, then racks (D) are installed in the intended place. After the wall is installed, before installing the door frame, the bar (G) can be cut out or a threshold can be drawn in this place.

Do-it-yourself single partition from boards

Fastening boards to bars when installing single partitions can be done in two ways:

1. Boards are installed between two bars, which are parallel to each other.
2. The boards are installed in grooves made in the bars, which are attached to the floor and ceiling opposite each other.

In the first version, the boards are installed between two bars. First, bars (A) are attached to the floor and ceiling, then bars (B) are attached in the same way. The distance between the bars should ensure that the boards (B) fit tightly into the space between the bars and have the same distance along the entire length. For example, if the board is 50 mm thick, then the distance between the bars can be made 50 ... 52 mm.

The bar (B) is made shorter than the bar (A) by the width of one board, from which the partition is assembled. For example, if the board is 150 mm wide, then the bars (B) should be shorter than the bars (A) by 150 mm. This will allow you to install boards between the bars, for example, if a door frame is installed in the partition, the direction of installation of the boards is indicated by arrows.

This version of the partition device has a significant drawback - the bars protrude above the floor surface and make it difficult to install the plinth. Such partitions can be used, for example, to divide space in a utility block, garage or country house (not a residential building).

The second option for erecting a single partition from boards provides for attaching the boards to only one bar, more precisely, into a groove that is made in the bar. This option is more time-consuming, but at the same time, the support bars will no longer interfere with the installation of the plinth - it turns out a flat wall from floor to ceiling.

Before erecting a partition according to this option, it is necessary to make a groove 15 mm wide (minimum value) in the bars (A). The depth of the groove is equal to half the thickness of the bar, that is, 50 mm / 2 \u003d 25 mm, this is the depth of the groove.

A spike must be made at both ends of the boards, while the thickness of the spike must be at least 14 mm, that is, 1 mm less than the width of the groove. This will facilitate the installation of the boards and their movement in the groove of the beams (A). The height of the spike relative to the depth of the groove is made 5 mm less. If the groove depth is 25 mm, then the height of the stud should be approximately 20 mm (upper and lower stud).

The length of the board (from point B to point D) should be no more than 2645 mm, with a ceiling height of 2700 mm. Since bars (A) with a groove for installing boards are attached to the floor and ceiling, the distance between the grooves is taken to calculate the length of the boards, which in the described example is 2650 mm. It turns out 2650 mm - 2645 mm = 5 mm, this is the minimum gap between the end of the board and the end of the bar (A).

In the bars (A) it is necessary to make a place for installing boards. To do this, in the lower bars, (for example, near the doorway), you need to cut off one wall of the groove, 150 mm wide (in the example, the width of the board is 150 mm).

When it is no longer possible to insert the boards into the groove from the end, the installed part of the partition and the doorway interfere, then in this case we just use the place for installing the boards made in the lower bar (A). First, we insert the board at an angle with a spike into the groove of the upper bar (A), and the bottom spike of the board passes freely in the prepared place and thus install the spike into the groove.

After the upper and lower spikes of the board are installed in the groove, move the board in the direction of the installed boards and connect them together. All board installation directions are indicated by arrows in Figure 3. Now let's talk briefly about the end connection of the boards.

An effective end connection can be achieved by joining planks through dowels. To do this, it is necessary to drill blind holes at the ends of the boards. We leave one end of the board with holes, and install dowels in the holes from the other end, and so on in each board.

The main thing is that the holes in the end of one board are on the same axis as the dowels installed in the end of the other board. The center-to-center distance between the pins and holes is made the same at about 200 mm, the depth of the pin into the board can be 50-80 mm (with a board width of 150 mm). The depth of the hole in the end of the board, into which the dowel enters when the boards are joined, must ensure that the dowel is completely deepened so that there is no gap between the boards.

Note:In all ways of arranging wooden partitions, boards installed against the wall of the house are attached to it with nails or with dowels.

Like any others, they provide for the presence of interior partitions. They are usually made from different materials, but traditional solutions are:

• log;
• beam;
• board;

You can choose a material that will be cheaper than the rest. In this case, this is acceptable, because after the wall can be finished, making its appearance excellent.

Types of partitions

Before you build wooden partitions in a wooden house, you must understand their varieties. Among others, it should be noted:

• wooden;
• carpentry;
• frame-panel;
• solid.

Frame-panel are the most economical. They act as the most popular partitions. You can make them from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm. It is necessary to arrange the bars 60 cm apart. The connection will be a horizontal strapping. It gives additional stability. You can make partitions soundproof with the help of polystyrene foam and mineral wool. The thickness of the first can vary from 50 to 100 mm.

Additional protection against moisture can be provided with a vapor barrier material that is laid on both sides of the structure. Such partitions are suitable for houses made of glued laminated timber and other lumber. They cost about 100 rubles. per square meter. In order for the external and internal surfaces to be even, the partitions are sheathed with plasterboard, plywood sheets or gypsum fiber sheets. Plywood can have a thickness ranging from 7 to 10 mm, while GVL - 10-14 mm.

Features of carpentry wooden partitions

Wooden partitions in a wooden house can be carpentry. For them, interior structures are used. They are decorated with precious wood sheets or covered with paint or varnish. The soundproofing abilities of such walls are lower, therefore they are rarely used, and only where such characteristics are not so important. This applies to the dressing area in the bedroom.

The carpentry partitions are slatted. They have strapping and connecting spikes. Such walls are good because they do not require finishing. The price of such structures can vary from 250 to 1500 rubles. per square meter. The cost depends on the type of material. The assembly of such wooden partitions in a wooden house can be done independently.

Feedback on solid partitions

Such structures are usually made from materials that were used in construction. For example, for building a house from a profiled beam, partitions can be made from a beam with a section of 50x100 mm. As consumers emphasize, the top of the structure can be sheathed with plasterboard or fiberboard.

Home craftsmen claim that the system acquires rigidity thanks to metal spikes, their length and diameter are 100 mm and 10 mm, respectively. They are used for assembly. From below and from above, the structure is fastened with triangular bars. On the sides, the connection is carried out with nails, with the help of which the structure is attached to the load-bearing wall. If special grooves are made in the latter, then it is possible to lay the timber there during assembly. However, this approach is recommended only when the house has not yet fully shrunk.

Buyers claim that such wooden partitions in a wooden house have sound insulation qualities that depend on the characteristics of the timber. However, if you wish, you can improve these characteristics by adding a layer of foam to the structure. But this will require finishing. Consumers claim that the price of such a system will depend on the type of timber that was used in the construction of the house. From products of profiled chamber drying, you can get a partition, the cost of which starts from 250 rubles per square meter. The most expensive solution, according to users, are laminated veneer lumber partitions.

Installing a partition from the board

If you decide to make partitions in a wooden house, then for this you can use a board, planed or not planed. Before work, you can stock up on products, the width and thickness of which starts from 150 and 50 mm, respectively, and ends with 200 mm and 60 mm, respectively. The boards are connected by shunts.

Before finishing, the structure must be sanded. If planed boards were used, then the finish can be fixed immediately. In order for the partition not to bend after plastering, the boards are split with a hammer, and wedges from 10 mm are hammered into the gaps formed.

Production of a shield partition

Interior partitions in a wooden house can also be panel. For this, all the same boards are used, the length and thickness of which may be different. In this case, you can use the construction residues. The optimal size for shields is boards, the thickness of which is from 20 to 40 mm.

Shields should form two or three rows. In order to make the quality of heat and sound insulation of the partition higher, cardboard, roofing felt, heat-insulating material or parchment paper are laid between the layers.

Work on a two-layer shield

The boards used for the partition can have different thicknesses, but the shield should be no thinner than 40 mm. For laying and nailing it is necessary to use nails. The joints are completely covered. From the side parts, each shield should have protrusions from the board of 25 mm.

With the help of a quarter, you can connect the elements together. As a result, you should get shields whose width is 0.5 m, while the length is 1.5 m. The device of partitions in a wooden house using this technology provides for attaching a log to the floor and ceiling. Grooves are made in them, where the partition is fixed. The structure is plastered and finished with drywall.

Execution of a three-layer shield

Boards can form the basis of a three-layer structure. This allows for better insulation. The thickness of the products will be a limit of 19 to 25 mm. The bottom and top layers are stacked vertically, while the middle layer provides for a horizontal arrangement of the boards. In this case, products of smaller thickness should be used.

Fastening is carried out along the seam. If you decide to build a partition in a wooden house according to the principle of a three-layer structure, then quarters must be left from the edges in order to give the shields the appearance of a single structure. Roofing material or cardboard is laid in two layers between the first and second, as well as the second and third layers. Noise isolation of partitions in a wooden house will be at the highest level. Therefore, such structures can be used in any premises. At the final stage, the shields are plastered on both sides.

Making a frame partition

To perform the frame structure of the interior wall, you need to familiarize yourself with the floor device. If it was arranged on beams, then the frame is installed on one of them. The strapping is carried out at a distance of 10 cm from the floor and ceiling. If the floor was built on logs on the ground, then the frame partition in a wooden house must be installed on separate beams, providing a gap of 1 cm on all sides.

The design should not be located on a clean floor, because the repair becomes more complicated, and the sound insulation worsens. Before installing the frame partition, it is necessary to measure the room, making markings on the walls and floor. Bars and grooves will be located along the marked lines. According to the measurements, it is necessary to prepare racks and assemble a frame from them. If there is a door in the wall, then its box is installed at the strapping stage. Racks should be located along the edges of the box, which are connected to the frame.

Work methodology

When assembling the frame, you can use one of two technologies. The first involves the assembly and installation of the frame as a whole. Another approach involves assembling shields and elements separately. This is true for frame-panel walls. The frame is installed vertically and wedged. Fixation is carried out with screws. It is necessary to fix the extreme racks to the wall. The lower trim is attached to the floor; screws must be used for this. Their heads are sunk for finishing.

In order to ensure the stability of the intermediate posts, boards and bars are attached across them. Before that, you need to measure the angle at which the bars will be installed. It must be straight. From the outside, the beam is nailed through the post, while from the inside, two nails must be used, they must be offset at an angle. The hat also deepens.

Inside the structure for soundproofing a partition in a wooden house, steam-conducting material is laid. Previously, dry slag or brick was used for this. Today, more and more often you can find synthetic filler, for example, mineral plates. They are located after the sheathing is made on one side. Along with the material, you can lay communications. To save material and time, it is better to use frame cells, their dimensions can be equal to 500x500 mm or 500x100 mm. Thermal insulation boards are produced in such sizes. Therefore, such a device allows cutting the slab in half or using the material as a whole.

Conclusion

After making the frame partition, you can sheathe it with one of the many materials that are on the market today. It is necessary to use self-tapping screws and nails for fastening, which are recessed into the material, and then covered with putty. After the layer dries, the surface can be cleaned and the corners and joints adjacent to the ceiling and load-bearing walls can be repaired. To do this, it is recommended to use vertical strips, putty and fiberglass tape. The finished partition is quite often pasted over with wallpaper or painted with paint. However, you can use any of your chosen finishing materials for this.

The construction of a wooden house involves the construction of external and internal load-bearing walls. After their shrinkage, internal partitions are made in the log house. They are designed to divide the interior into functional areas, providing heat and sound insulation. These walls do not contribute to the stability of the load-bearing walls of the log house and do not carry the load of the roof or upper floor. Internal partitions must be as strong as possible, fairly light, of small thickness, withstand the possible load of hanging objects (cabinets, shelves, plumbing), have sufficient soundproofing, and their surface must be suitable for finishing work. In addition, to ensure the necessary fire-fighting and sanitary-hygienic properties, they are built from environmentally friendly materials intended for residential premises, which have sufficient moisture resistance and fire resistance.

Interior wall options

In a wooden house, you can make partitions of several types:

• solid;
• frame-panel;
• shield.

Solid partitions are made, as a rule, from a wooden beam, the thickness of which is 50-100 mm. Thick plywood, fiberboard, drywall can be used for sheathing. To ensure optimal rigidity, the timber is connected with spikes (length 10 cm, diameter 1 cm). For installation and fastening to the ceiling and floor of solid partitions, triangular bars are used. If the structure is attached to a load-bearing wall, then it is simply nailed or a deformation groove is selected in the wall, which is used to install the structure.

Features of solid structures:

• it is necessary to use a lot of material;
• rather costly design;
• has the best soundproofing qualities.

Frame-panel walls consist of a frame sheathed with a finishing material. The frame of such a partition consists of vertical racks of boards 50 by 100 mm, installed approximately 40 - 60 cm apart. To give them stability, they perform horizontal strapping. The voids between the racks are filled with heat-insulating material (polystyrene, mineral wool), vapor barrier is arranged on both sides and the structure is sheathed. To do this, you can use plywood, drywall or sheets of gypsum plaster.

Features of frame-panel structures:

• fast execution of work;
• low weight of the structure;
• low-cost;
• relatively low sound and heat insulation properties.

Shield partitions are a prefabricated structure in which the boards are located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other. Such walls can consist of 2 or 3 layers of boards, between which roofing material or cardboard is laid to increase heat and sound insulation characteristics. For two-layer shield partitions, boards with a thickness of 20-40 mm are used, and for three-layer panels - 20 mm. The installation of shields is carried out in special grooves in the ceiling and floor. For finishing, the walls are plastered.

Features of panel structures:

• takes a long time to assemble;
• it is necessary to ensure the maximum fit of the boards in the shields;
• large weight of the structure.

Back to index

Internal partitions in log houses are based on crossbars or beams.

Due to the relatively low weight, the inner walls do not require a foundation. It's just not recommended to install them on the floor. At the joints of the floor and walls, soundproof gaskets are arranged. In order to make a partition in a log house, it is necessary to take into account the shrinkage of the building. The general rule for any type of partitions inside a log house is the lack of linear dimensions. This means, for example, that a gap of 1 cm is left between the wall and the frame of the wall structure so that the frame and finishing materials do not deform over time. In houses made of timber or logs, a gap is left between the partition and the ceiling, the height of which is about 50 mm. This gap, as well as the places where the partitions adjoin the walls, are filled with antiseptic tow, previously soaked in a gypsum solution. The junction can be hidden with a beautiful wide wooden corner.

Separately, it is worth dwelling on the insulation laid in the partitions of residential log houses. It helps to improve the distribution of heat in the interior and isolates sound. When choosing thermal insulation, it is worth stopping at the most environmentally friendly material, such as ecowool, vermiculite or expanded clay. You can use basalt wool, not forgetting the double-sided vapor barrier, which is mandatory in this case. Styrofoam is the most unsuitable material for residential premises: it is combustible and emits the dangerous colorless gas styrene.

Partitions can be erected in two ways:

1. From a bar (as the construction of the house itself)
2. Frame partitions with subsequent sheathing

Bar partitions

Partitions from a bar are erected mainly as the house is being built. The thickness of the partition is 100 mm (this is quite enough to provide the necessary rigidity), it is installed already laid logs, so think in advance about how they will go. Further on the wall, using a level, mark the position of the future partition. You can attach the beam to the wall in different ways:

- pre-cutting a groove in the wall

- connecting the partition to the wall with dowels

- ligation with the outer wall

As a result, we get the following construction:

This method is characterized by the fact that the partitions will shrink at the same time as the outer walls, but the price will be slightly higher.

Frame partitions

Frame partitions in the house from a bar are wooden racks interconnected by horizontal ties in the form of a beam with subsequent sheathing.

The arrangement of such partitions is as follows: places are marked for installing the lower and upper straps, the top is installed, then the frame itself and the skin are MANDATORY WITH A CLEARANCE FROM THE TOP.

We need a gap so that when the walls of the house shrink, our partition does not press down. If the beam is cylindrical, then we make grooves in it for installing sheathing sheets. Another important point is to provide free space in the rack for the self-tapping screw, as shown in the figure:

This is done so that the wall of the house, when shrinking, does not drag the rack behind it.

Summing up, we can say that partitions in a house made of timber can be built both entirely from timber and using frame technology, the main thing is to do everything right!