Pruning fruit trees in spring. How to form a fruit tree in the form of a horizontal palmette Formation of tree crowns

And the formation of shrubs - the main techniques for caring for the garden. Many varieties require constant (annual) pruning. At the same time, both pruning of old fruit trees and young ones that are just starting to bear fruit is important.

First of all, these works can reduce the number of pests, reduce the height of trees, by removing old branches and shoots, you can beautifully form a crown.

It also improves the quality and quantity of fruits, and the general condition of the tree. You can achieve many indicators without the use of chemicals, which, you see, is an advantage. The main purposes of pruning:

• The main goal is to obtain a small-sized and healthy shrub that will constantly bear fruit;
• The second goal is to create a powerful skeleton with evenly spaced branches;
• It also allows you to keep the crown in the desired shape;
• There is an adjustment of fruiting, and the mass of fruits increases;
• Provides support for the balance between fruiting and tree growth, which improves its health;
• and pests become less "aggressive", which leads to an increase in the life of shrubs.

If you do not timely regulate the development and growth, as well as the fruiting of trees, then over time their growth will increase, but the quality of the fruits will fall, and winter hardiness will weaken.

Pruning: taking into account the timing and time of year

To correctly carry out the removal of unnecessary branches, which leads to a positive result (increased fruiting), you need to know what time is best to work and which plants are pruned during this period.

• Spring. It is necessary to cut the branches before the sap flow begins in them, but after the frosts completely disappear. Otherwise, by your actions, you will weaken the plants, because they will spend a lot of strength and nutrients on the restoration of "wounds". Most often, this is the month of March. At this time, gardeners can work on red and black currants and other berry bushes. As for mature trees, pruning takes place during this period to form a crown.
• Summer. In the summer season, only some fruit crops are removed, among which are peaches and apricots. With the help of work at this stage, you will be able to reduce crop losses during the frost period. In June, you can also break out the shoots and pinch them (pinching). And to renew the inflorescences, remove all faded flowers.
• Autumn. Most often, from the beginning of September, they begin to carry out rejuvenating or “sanitary” pruning, which allows you to protect trees from possible pests that easily overwinter with the plant. It is best to start work after leaf fall, which often occurs at the end of October.
• Winter. In winter, it is best to prune in the southern regions of the country, where frosts do not fall below -13 ° C. In this case, old and unnecessary branches damaged by adverse environmental factors are removed. With the help of such procedures, you will remove the load from the tree and the risks of splitting branches in the future.

Types of pruning fruit trees - a note to gardeners

There are several types of pruning, and every gardener should know what the differences are between them. After all, the choice of type depends on the goal pursued. In modern gardening, there are such types as:

• Forming, which is needed to form the crown. As a result, the skeletal part of the tree becomes more powerful and resistant to heavy loads. If you need to increase the growth rate, work in the middle of winter, if you are trying to slow down growth, you need to remove the branches in the spring.
• Regulatory - designed to prevent overload and maintain the shape of the crown. This type of work allows you to maintain the ability of the shrub to high-quality fruiting. It is best to remove branches either in late summer or early spring.
• Rejuvenating pruning of old fruit trees, which is required to stimulate the growth of new shoots. Such pruning is necessary if you observe a slight increase in shoots for the second year. This type of work consists in shortening the branches and is carried out in February or September.
• Restorative pruning is to return the damaged branches of plants to the ability to grow further.
• Sanitary, as a result of which it is necessary to remove broken and damaged branches. Works of this type are carried out at any time of the year, except for frosty days.

Fruit trees - what and how to cut?

Now you know the rules and methods for pruning fruit trees, it remains only to clarify what the most famous fruitful trees and shrubs need. After that, you can safely take the garden scissors (hacksaw or pruner) in your hands and proceed to remove the branches.

• Pears and apple trees. In this case, pruning consists of keeping the central stem and removing the top a few years after planting. This will illuminate the crown, and the main trunk will begin to produce young shoots.
• Plums form a cup-shaped crown. It is necessary to cut out branches that are too close to each other, and make the top open - for sunlight to reach the tree, too long shoots need to be shortened.
• In cherries, it is necessary to form a crown of a longline type with a central trunk. With aging, the main shoot should be cut out.
• Apricots and peaches growing very fast. And in order to get a tasty and rich harvest all year round, you need to carry out high-quality removal. First of all, the top is cut off, and the branches growing near the ground are removed. During work, you do not need to feed the tree, otherwise the trees will grow too quickly.
• We must not forget about pruning ornamental shrubs, which include willow, maple, hawthorn. Most often, a rejuvenating type of work is carried out, when about 30% of each branch is removed, leaving 5 buds on it.

At the level of 40 cm (or 60-70 cm) from the ground, select three developed buds. It is desirable that the two lower ones look in different directions. Then cut the stem over the top one.

Over the summer, a shoot will grow from the upper bud, which will become a continuation of the central conductor. Tie it vertically to the support, stretch the other two, which developed from the lower buds, to the side, but not horizontally (so as not to interfere with their growth), but at an angle of 30-45 ° to the trunk. To do this, you can tie wooden planks attached to the wire to them. In summer, you can help grow a weaker shoot by raising its top relative to the "neighbor". If they are immediately bent to the horizontal, they will weaken ahead of time and give up all their strength to the leader, who will intensively begin to grow upwards.

In the autumn of the first year after leaf fall, lower the side branches to the horizontal and tie them with a soft rope to the wire. Cut off all unnecessary shoots on the trunk into three buds.

In the spring of the second year, shorten the center conductor at a height of 45 cm from the lower fork, taking into account that three good buds remain at the lower wire. (In the south, pruning of the main shoot is relevant already in the first autumn). The task is to stimulate the growth of the shoot - the deputy leader and two side branches to form the second tier. If extra shoots develop, they are shortened to three buds. And both horizontal branches are shortened by a third, above the kidney, "looking" down.

In the summer of the second year, you need to form the second tier, just like the first. So, as before, horizontal and vertical increments of the continuation are formed and cut off. It is necessary to monitor the appearance of competing shoots, cutting them into three buds. Appearing tops on skeletal branches cut off up to three leaves above the rosette at the base. At the end of summer, horizontal growths are tied to a trellis.

In the spring of the third year, the central conductor is shortened at a height of 45 cm from the second tier, leaving three good buds. Excess shoots on the trunk are cut into three buds, after which the growths of the next tier are tied to a wire (at an angle to stimulate their growth). The third and subsequent tiers are grown in the same way. In our climatic zone, it is better to stop at two or three tiers of palmette. Although it is possible to make 4-5 tiers. Annual pruning includes shortening the fruitlets by three to five buds, followed by shortening the growing shoots by half. Mandatory cutting on the ring of branches that protrude from the plane, and restrictive pruning.

Mature tree in fruiting period

When the formation of tiers is over, the central conductor is completely removed along with the growth of horizontal branches. And then they begin to cut, forming fruits according to the Loretta system: considering each tier as horizontal. A few years later, the fruits thicken, grow old, so they are thinned out, removing weak buds and shortening some fruits to 2-3 buds.

1. Why ornamental plants need pruning.
2 . Types of pruning trees and shrubs.
3. Trim timing.
4. Pruning of the main shrubs.

• Barberry.
  
• Lilac.
  
• Hydrangea.
  

5. Pruning ornamental trees.

1. Why ornamental plants need pruning

Pruning ornamental trees and shrubs is very important: it gives some plants the opportunity to get more large flowers, others a chance to increase the duration of flowering or even bloom again. Also, with the help of pruning, beautiful crowns of trees and shrubs are formed and maintain their shape in the future. In addition, it is necessary to prevent overgrowth, as well as to keep plants healthy.

All trees and shrubs need pruning.

2. Types of cropping

Formative pruning used to form crowns, restrain plant growth, stimulate flowering.

Most often, the crowns of ornamental plants are given outwardly rounded outlines, without going into the formation of the skeleton. Such pruning is more correctly called a haircut. From the crowns of plants, you can cut out geometric shapes, give them the outlines of various objects or animals. For crowns of complex shape, special frames are usually used that repeat a given silhouette. The frames are left in the crown for several years, while the formation is in progress, and sometimes for the entire life of the plant. Trees and shrubs with similar crowns are called topiaries.

The formation of a clearly defined skeleton for ornamental trees is rarely used - mainly for the removal of trellises, palmettes or cordons.

The formation of shrubs often includes shortening growths (removing part of a branch) and thinning (removing excess branches completely).

Sanitary pruning- both on ornamental trees and shrubs - it is used to remove diseased and damaged branches.

Anti-aging pruning necessary for aging plants that have lost their decorative effect due to age-related changes. The purpose of this procedure is to achieve intensive growth of young shoots, from which a new crown will be formed in the future. Shrubs for rejuvenation are cut “on a stump”, that is, stumps 5–15 cm high are left, depending on the type of plant. In trees, all branches are severely pruned, and in some cases, the trunks themselves are sawn off.

3. Timing trimming

In order not to lose part of the flowering branches when pruning flowering shrubs, it is important to take into account their flowering time. Crops that bloom in spring or early summer are pruned immediately after flowering ends, and those that bloom in the second half of summer and autumn - in early spring, before bud break. Anti-aging pruning is best done in early spring. And sanitary - at any time, if necessary.

Topiaries are sheared both in spring and summer - so that they retain their shape as the shoots grow.

4. Pruning the main shrubs

Pruning spirea comes down to giving shrubs a neat shape, removing thin dry twigs and fruits. Spring-flowering spireas (s. arguta, s. gray, s. alpine, s. Vangutta, s. Summer-flowering (s. birch-leaved, s. Bumalda, s. Douglas, s. willow-leaved, s. Japanese and others) - in early spring. In bushes over 3 years old, old stems must be removed. Once every few years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out “on the stump”.

In the next video, you can see the process of spring pruning of summer-flowering spireas using the example of c. Japanese Anthoni Waterer, Little Princess, Magic Carpet, Macrophylla.

Barberry

Barberries keep their shape well, but they quickly accumulate a lot of dry branches, so every spring the bushes need to be cleaned. Depending on what is more important (crown shape or flowering), barberries are sheared in spring or summer, and not rarely even several times a season. For old collapsing bushes, anti-aging pruning is used. Tall species of barberries look beautiful when forming a raised crown on several stems. To do this, you need to cut the lower branches, as well as all the thin and randomly growing trunks. Leave only 3-7 most well-placed trunks.

Young mock orange bushes usually do not require shaping, if you do want to cut them, it is best to do this after flowering. The plant needs to remove the bare dry tips of the branches, which spoil the decorative effect of the shrub. They are cut to living wood in summer or autumn, since in spring it is not particularly noticeable that they are dry.

With age, the plant has old branches, often deviating to the ground. They are thinned out in early spring before the buds awaken (optimal time) or in autumn, cutting at the base or above a strong branch. This pruning will allow new shoots to grow. Old neglected mock orange bushes require radical anti-aging pruning in the spring.

Lilac

Lilac can be formed as a bush or as a single or multi-stemmed tree. In order for the crown to look attractive all year round, it is necessary to select several evenly spaced stems and use them as the basis for the formation of the skeleton. Delete the rest. In the future, annually maintain the shape of the crown by cutting out excess shoots. Lilacs should not be heavily thickened (this negatively affects flowering), so remove all small, weak and unsuccessfully growing branches regularly. This shrub is extremely durable, so it does not need to be rejuvenated.

When forming standard forms and growing grafted lilacs, it is important to cut out the shoots in a timely manner, this will also help to restrain the growth of spray lilacs. Coppice shoots need to be cut in the spring.

After flowering, dry flower stalks are cut off so that the plants do not waste their energy on the formation of seeds. This should be done carefully, cutting off the inflorescence at the first leaves located oppositely. If desired, at this time, you can adjust the shape of the crown by slightly cutting off excessively protruding branches.

For lilacs, do not forget to cut dry flower stalks

Hydrangea

Panicled hydrangea and tree-like hydrangea are pruned in the spring, before the leaves unfold. In order for the flowering to be plentiful, and the inflorescences to be as large as possible, the bush should consist of a small number of strong solid branches. They need to be greatly shortened, leaving only 3-5 buds. Cut out all weak growths.

Also in our gardens there is a large-leaved city, though much less often. It differs from its sisters in that it blooms on last year's shoots. Hence the feature in pruning: branches need to be cut after flowering. And do not cut completely, but only shorten to cause the formation of new shoots. In the spring, only sanitary pruning is carried out near the large-leaved city - and then only if absolutely necessary.

You can see with your own eyes how to cut panicle hydrangea in the next video.

5. Pruning ornamental trees

Pruning ornamental trees is necessary to form the crown, remove the bole of the desired height and further maintain the desired shape. But even if the trees grow freely, every year it is worth carrying out sanitary pruning, removing branches that cross and point inward, and also slightly thin out the crown so that it is well blown. Remember: thickening promotes the development of diseases and pests.

Trees with decorative leaves sometimes have shoots that do not correspond to this variety (chimerism). They should be immediately cut at the very base to stop the spread of this phenomenon.

Trees are also often pruned to restrain growth so that they are easy to care for.

Trees should be pruned in early spring, when the danger of a return of frost has passed. It is advisable to complete all pruning work before bud break begins.

Planted a garden but don't know how to prune? Have you bought a cottage with old trees and want to rejuvenate them? Not sure which fruit tree pruning scheme to use in spring? Are you confused in terms and rules? If the answer to at least one question is yes, then you have come to the right place. Especially for you, we have collected information from books on gardening, added recommendations from experienced gardeners to it, brought everything into a readable form, attached photos and video materials. Read and learn with us!

Any pruning is an injury to the tree. It depends on the type and quality of the tool how quickly the fruit crop will recover. The smoother the cut, the faster the plant will recover.

• garden knife - the main tool;
• hacksaw - for cutting thick, old branches;
• secateurs.

Get used to working with a garden knife

The secateurs, although cutting branches with ease, compresses the wood, which increases the time for wound healing.

• rejuvenating;
• sanitary:
• formative.

We will consider them in more detail in the course of the article.

Crown formation scheme

The formation of the crown of fruit trees begins from the second year of life and lasts for several years. Any pruning scheme will be difficult if the branches are placed incorrectly. In Russia, two methods are most common: sparse-tiered and untiered.

Consider the first: it is simple, accessible to novice gardeners and suitable for any type of fruit tree.

The first, lower tier is formed even in the nursery, this facilitates the work of a novice gardener. When planting a seedling, you need to cut off all the branches by 1/3. The root system is damaged when dug up, and such pruning contributes to the harmonious development of the plant. How soon after planting should I start forming the crown?

In the first year, a young fruit tree adapts to new conditions, roots develop, therefore the growth is small. In the second year, the growth of shoots will also be insignificant. From the third year after planting, proceed to the formation of the crown.

With a sparse-tiered system, the crown of a fruit tree consists of a central trunk and 5-6 branches located at different levels. On the right side of the schematic drawing, the structure is visible: each branch of the next tier is in the middle of the angle formed by the lower branches. See the distance between tiers on the left side of the image.

Term	What does
fruit tree stem	The section of the trunk between the root collar and the first branch
Center conductor	Section of the trunk from the first lower branch to the top
The escape	Twig growing from last year's bud
Tops	Shoots growing vertically and reaching a length of up to 2 meters
Escape Competitor	A strong branch growing from a lateral bud slightly above last year's growth
tweezing	Manipulation aimed at stopping the growth of the shoot. To do this, pinch the top with 2-3 leaves.
Fat shoots	Strong tops on the bases of branches that appear when the tree is aging or improperly pruned.

Anti-aging pruning: how to do it right

If the orchard is characterized by the predominance of old trees over 30 years old, a decrease in yield is observed. In this case, it is necessary, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Examine the tree, identify dying branches.
2. At their base, select strong fat shoots.
3. Step back 1-2 cm from the base of the fat shoot and cut (cut down) the drying branch.
4. Cover the cut with garden pitch.

It is desirable that there be not one, but several strong shoots near the pruning site: then the wound will heal faster. So that the shoots do not grow much, you need to pinch.

that the process of rejuvenation of an old fruit tree should take place gradually.

If you remove all dying branches at once, the tree may wither. Therefore, experts recommend stretching the rejuvenation for 4 years, performing it in parts. Crown formation in the future is the same as for a young tree.

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - what you need to know

Sanitary pruning is carried out annually in the fall. Its purpose is to remove dried or diseased branches.

Rules for this type of pruning:

• remove shoots above the outer bud, skeletal branches - on the ring;
• cut diseased and dry branches with a healthy part;
• if the branch is located vertically - make an oblique cut;
• after trimming is completed, grease all wounds with garden pitch or other putty.

In fact, sanitary pruning resembles partly rejuvenating, partly shaping. The technique and rules are the same.

When and how to prune an apple tree

The answer to the question of which month to prune an apple tree depends on its age. If the tree is young, prune in the spring before buds open. The time depends on the region - approximately the beginning-mid-March. For an adult tree, in which the movement of juice and swelling of the kidneys occur earlier, winter pruning is carried out at the end of February.

Rules to follow:

• make sure that the thickness of the branches that extend from the conductor is not more than 1/2 of the stem diameter;
• too thin branches are also unacceptable;
• departure angle 40 0 ​​(it can be corrected, see the figure);
• in the lower tier there are no more than 3-4 branches with a divergence angle of at least 90 0 .

Conclusion

The article used the following pruning literature:

• Kolesnikov E.V. 'Advice to gardeners' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1972 - p.152;
• Videnov B.M., Kovachev G.T., Manov S.L. 700 tips for an amateur gardener - 1972.

You need to form a crown for all fruit trees in the garden. This results in increased productivity. But you need to have knowledge of how to properly cut branches so as not to harm the tree. We will tell in the article about the formation of the crown of fruit trees, we will give instructions and diagrams for beginners.

The essence of the procedure for forming branches on trees

Crown formation is important for the first seven years of life. Thanks to this procedure, the annual growth is improved and the yield is increased. The formation of the crown occurs by trimming the branches of a young tree. The effect is enhanced if, at the same time, proper care is taken: timely pest control and care for the soil. For the rapid growth of the tree, the soil is regularly watered, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied.

Formation of the crown of stone fruits within four years after planting

Advantages of crown formation:

1. Good growth rate.
2. Fertility improvement.
3. Improving the quality of the crop.
4. Tree rejuvenation.
5. Improved crown lighting.
6. Prevention of diseases and death of a tree by removing dry and diseased branches.

Thanks to pruning, the branches become more powerful and withstand a greater load, do not break under the weight of the fruit, and the trunk thickens. The tree bears fruit and retains its productivity for a long period, as it is regularly rejuvenated.

Before pruning, consider the purpose of the procedure and the type of tree.

Together with pruning branches, bending, twisting and tying branches are used to form the crown. There are also disadvantages to the procedure. Experienced gardeners should start pruning, because if the technology is not followed, the tree can be harmed, namely:

• reduce winter hardiness;
• reduce growth at the end of the growing season;
• increase crown thickening. Read also the article: → "".

There are four types of pruning, each of which is aimed at fulfilling a specific purpose. There are shaping, anti-aging, sanitary pruning, pruning to reduce the growth and volume of the crown. We give in the table the goals and features of each type of pruning.

View	Goals	Dates
Formative	Creating an illuminated and powerful crown that is easy to care for. Giving decoration.	First 3-4 years.
Anti-aging	Restoration of the crown of old trees, regeneration of branches and stimulation of bud formation.	After 2-3 years of growth every 3-4 years.
Pruning to reduce height	Increase lighting and productivity.	First 2-4 years.
Sanitary	Carried out for thickened crowns, which have been left without care for a long time.	Conducted year-round as needed.

Pruning to reduce the height is used in the industrial cultivation of trees, when gardens of low-growing trees are formed. The process is quite labor intensive. With the observance of technology, it is possible to create a strong skeleton of a tree with correctly located main branches.

🎧 How to prune and graft fruit trees in the garden (2 parts)?

Andrey Tumanov, an expert summer resident, says: “How to properly cut and plant fruit trees in the garden.” For 20 years, the author has hosted a series of programs on TV dedicated to amateur gardening and horticulture - “Fazenda”, “Garden”, “Our Garden”, “Country Hour”, “Field Work”.

Tree crown formation methods

There are such forms of the crown:

1. Cup-shaped tiered-sparse. Suitable for trees with stems from 160 to 180 cm. These are stone fruits and some varieties of pears and apple trees.
2. Fusiform. Suitable for trees with stems from 80 to 100 cm. These are trees with a spreading crown (apple and pear).
3. Longline. Suitable for tiered trees.
4. Sparse-tiered. Suitable for apple, pear, cherry, plum and apricot trees.
5. Tierless. Suitable for cherries and apricots.
6. Bushy. Suitable for stone fruit trees. They begin to form a bush from the first year of life, cutting off the top.
7. Fan. Suitable for small apple trees. The branches of a short trunk grow upwards, therefore, in early summer, young shoots are tied up to protect exposed areas of the crown. Before planting, be sure to look at the type of crown, and then they select the shape.

Shorten new shoots usually in the spring.

They form a crown during the dormant period, but after the end of severe frosts. The beginning of April is considered ideal. In the North-West regions, the dates may shift until mid-June, when flowering begins. It is advisable to prune before the buds swell or after the leaves fall in the fall. In summer, dry and damaged branches, as well as the tops of young shoots, are removed.

1. In winter, branches are cut at a temperature not lower than -8 ° C, otherwise the wounds will not heal.
2. Seedlings planted in autumn, like stone fruit trees, are pruned before the juice begins to flow.
3. Branches damaged by frost are pruned after bud break in the spring.

Crown formation technology

The technology depends on the type of crown. There are pyramidal, sprawling and spherical.

• For pyramidal crowns, branches are first cut inside to expand the circumference of the crown. The shoots are shortened to the outer bud (the upper bud is left on the outside of the crown).
• For sprawling types, the lower branches that are inclined towards the ground are cut out. When the tree is tilted to one side, the branches are cut more in the direction of the slope.

Council number 1. If a young tree leans, it is leveled in early spring, while the ground is damp. To do this, pull the stem to the stake.

When a tree freezes, cut the frozen part to a healthy area. The crown is formed from a healthy shoot. The scheme for the formation of the most popular forms of crowns is given in the table.

crown shape	Formation features
sparse-tiered	The central conductor is cut at a height of 80 cm from the lower tier of branches. Leave at least 8 buds. In the 4th year, three strong branches evenly spaced against each other are left, the rest are removed. Subsequent tiers are formed within two years. Each tier consists of two branches. When the trunk reaches a height of 4.5 m, cut off the center conductor to stop growth. The crown is formed in the third year of growth.
bushy	Crown formation is already being done for annual seedlings. Leave 6 branches that are 15 cm apart, the rest of the shoots are cut out. As the tree grows, the lower shoots are left longer than the upper ones (they are shortened annually by 1/2 length). The conductor above the top branch, which grows upwards, is cut off.
untiered	Leave up to 6 branches, which are located 15-40 cm apart. For sprawling crowns, the conductor is made 20 cm higher than the branches, for pyramidal ones - 30 cm higher.

For thickened varieties, shoots are first removed that grow inward towards the crown, intersect and rub.

Cutting technique:

1. When removing thick branches, the saw simultaneously cuts in a circle so that there are no bark burrs.
2. Branches less than 1 cm in diameter are removed with a pruner, a spine up to 2 mm is left above the kidney.
3. The cut points of branches thicker than 2 mm are treated with garden pitch. A product containing pine resin is best suited. Apply with a layer of more than 3.5 mm. Putty is needed to accelerate wound healing and prevent infection, protection from drying out and moisture ingress.
4. When cutting an annual shoot, make an oblique cut from the opposite side of the kidney. The spike is not left.
5. When thinning, the branches are cut into a ring. To putty cuts, latex and natural oil paints are used.

Features of work depending on the age of the tree

Form a crown for young seedlings for 2-3 years. It was during that period that skeletal branches were cut out, on which a smaller number of fruits were formed. In the first years, only diseased and broken branches are removed, as well as shoots that thicken the crown. With excessive pruning, tops appear.

Branches are cut annually, while large branches are shortened by a maximum of 10 cm. Young shoots are not cut out. Young trees should be pruned with care. The branches are fragile, with strong pruning, growth and an increase in the volume of the crown slow down, and the timing of the tree's entry into fruiting is delayed.

Features of pruning old trees:

1. When rejuvenated, the branches are cut to 1 m.
2. Dry branches are removed in a timely manner. They are not broken off, but neatly cut down.
3. The crown is formed from new shoots. They are pruned for better branching. To work in the garden, stock up on tools.

Garden pruning tools

You will need the following tools: a knife, a pruner, a lopper, a file, a chainsaw and a metal brush. To work at height, you can not do without a stepladder. For putty wounds garden pitch or paint.

Council number 2. To avoid injury to the tree, keep garden tools clean. After work, clean it and lubricate it, this will prevent rust.

Use garden tools for their intended purpose. Read also the article: → "". Consider the use of each tool.

• Branches up to 2 cm thick are removed with a secateurs. It looks like scissors, only the blades are curved. There are several types of tools: for all types of cuts (has parallel blades); for removing shoots (one-sided cutting secateurs).
• The pruner is a reinforced pruner model. This is a long handled instrument. It is designed for cutting branches from 2 to 5 cm in diameter.
• A saw is used to cut thick branches. Blade length 30-35 cm.
• With a large amount of work, a chainsaw is used. It is used to rejuvenate old trees and remove dry branches.
• Green shoots are removed with a garden knife. They clean the places of cuts and cuts before processing.
• When working in the garden at a height, they use a ladder; it is undesirable to climb on the trunk so as not to damage the bark. Stairs are from two to eight meters.

A branch shredder is used to remove branches from a garden plot. There are electric and petrol shredders.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Question number 1. When is the crown rejuvenated?

Crown rejuvenation is needed for two-year and three-year-old seedlings or when a decrease in yield is noted. At the same time, young shoots are preserved, and perennial ones are shortened. If the fruit tree is not rejuvenated in time, then the growth of the top will gradually stop. You can notice a decrease in growth by the annual growth of young shoots. With a decrease in growth by 20 cm, rejuvenating pruning is immediately performed.

Question number 2. What is the technology of sanitary pruning?

During sanitization, dry, broken and diseased branches are removed. After that, they proceed to thinning the branches in the lower part of the crown, which leaned towards the ground. Then the crown is rejuvenated.

Question number 3. What is a stem?

The trunk is called the part of the main trunk, which is located between the root zone and the first branch. Depending on the height of the stem, three types of trees are distinguished: low-stem, medium-stem and high-stem. More often, gardeners prefer low-stem.

Question number 4. What is a center conductor?

This is the part of the trunk from the bottom branch to the top of the tree.

Question number 5. Why do tops appear and what to do with them?

Tops appear on young and old fruit trees. The reasons are different. Tops in young trees grow near the places where large branches are cut. They can not be removed, but the tops that grow inside the crown must be cut out, because they thicken the crown. In old trees, tops appear when the branches are damaged, the top growth stops and around aging shoots. Their appearance indicates the need for rejuvenation.

Common mistakes gardeners make

Suggest errors:

1. Cut branches for rejuvenation no more than once every 3-4 years.
2. Below the ring, the shoots are not cut off, otherwise the cut will overgrow for a long time.
3. When using a secateurs, the cutting part is directed towards the branch, and not towards the part that is being cut.
4. Thick branches are first shortened and then cut into a ring, otherwise the trunk is injured.
5. It is important to take into account the characteristics of the growth of the tree. The central shoot gives a large annual increase, but the side branches grow more slowly. If you give the side branches a horizontal position (for example, bend or tie up), then the growth will stop, and the fruits will begin to be laid. Branches should branch out from the trunk at an angle of 45°.